Many metal surfaces can be painted without paint by coating them (chemically or electrochemically) with a thin layer of colored oxides or salts that adhere firmly to the surface. The last condition is not so easy to fulfill. For example, iron in humid air quickly (and without our help) becomes covered with a red-brown coating of oxidation products, simply put - rust, but this method of painting is no good, because the rust barely sticks and gets dirty when touched.

Here we present several recipes for coloring non-ferrous metals. Only some of them are suitable for home experiment, the rest require chemical reagents, which you can’t buy either in a pharmacy or in a photo store. However, we hope you have already signed up for a chemistry club.

Copper and brass tarnish fairly quickly when exposed to air. But they will retain their shine if chemically painted. Preparing the parts will take some time because the surface must be completely clean, without traces of dirt or grease. Wipe the polished part thoroughly with a cloth soaked in gasoline, and then with damp chalk or tooth powder. After washing the part in running water, hang it on a harsh thread or fishing line and do not touch more with your hands so as not to leave greasy stains (even if the skin looks completely dry, there is still at least a little fat on it). Dip the part in a dilute solution of nitric acid (no more than 5-10 ml per 100 ml of water) and rinse again, better hot water. Preparations are complete.

What happens next depends on what color you decide to paint the copper. If it is black, then hold the part for about five minutes in a solution in which per 100 ml of water there are 0.9 g of sodium hydroxide and 0.3 g of ammonium persulfate (NH 4) 2 SO 4 (it is used in photography). The solution temperature is 90-100°C.

In a solution of potassium chloride, nickel sulfate NiSO 4 and copper sulfate CuSO 4 (4.5, 2 and 10.5 g per 100 ml of water, respectively) at the same temperature, copper and brass will acquire a pleasant chocolate shade. Brass will turn azure after briefly soaking in a mixture consisting of 3 g of lead acetate (lead lotion can be used), 6 g of sodium thiosulfate (hyposulfite), 5 g of acetic acid and 100 ml of water. The temperature of such a solution is about 80°C.

Copper can also be greened. To do this, it needs to be dipped in the following solution: per 100 ml of water - 20 g of copper nitrate Cu(NO 3) 2, 30 g ammonia and 40 g each of ammonium chloride (ammonia) and sodium acetate; a solution of the latter substance is easy to obtain from soda and vinegar. Please handle copper nitrate with care, avoiding contact with the face and especially the mouth.

With the exception of the blackening experiment, we do not indicate reaction times anywhere. Choose it yourself based on experience, taking into account that the longer the processing time, the more intense the color.

The next metal that can be chemically painted is zinc. It is used infrequently, but everyone is well familiar with galvanized objects - buckets, basins, troughs. The object of the experiment can be any old, unusable galvanized object. Wash its surface with a solution of soda or wipe with a cloth soaked in gasoline, wash with hot water and soap and rinse several times. On the galvanized surface we will apply a mixture of substances that will react with zinc; giving colored compounds. Here are the paint recipes.

Black: 2 parts copper nitrate, 3 parts copper oxide, 8 parts hydrochloric acid and 64 parts water; After color appears, rinse the surface with water and dry.

Green: 10 parts each of copper sulfate and tartaric acid, 12 parts water and 24 parts sodium hydroxide solution in water (1:15); As soon as color appears, immediately rinse the surface with water, otherwise there will be a brown tint.

Blue: per 100 ml of water - 6 g of any nickel salt and the same amount of ammonium chloride,

Golden: mix a solution of 1 part tartaric acid, 2 parts soda and 1 part water with clean clay; Rub the surface with the mixture, and when it dries, rinse with water.

Brown-bronze: a mixture of 1 part verdigris and 5 parts acetic acid; Rub the surface with the mixture, rinse with water and dry.

Copper: since zinc is more active than copper, it is enough to moisten it with a solution of copper salt, for example, copper sulfate.

By the way, you can paint a picture on a zinc surface with such paints.

Let's move on from zinc to aluminum. Painting it is somewhat more difficult: there are more operations, and you cannot do without electric current. Aluminum oxide and salts are unattractive, so another coloring method is needed. He is famous: this anodizing. Its essence is that current is passed through an aluminum part immersed in an electrolyte; in this case, an oxide film less than 0.1 mm thick is formed on the surface. Since aluminum parts serve as an anode in a galvanic bath, the process is called anodizing. The oxide film is permeated with microscopic branched pores in which dyes are well retained. You can paint an anodized surface with organic dyes, including natural ones, but it is better to use inorganic substances. Typically, the part is treated alternately in two dye solutions, and the brightly colored reaction products remain in the pores.

Polish the aluminum part, degrease it with gasoline or acetone, rinse it in hot water and hang it on a wire. Dip the part for two to three minutes in a 5% solution of sodium hydroxide, rinse again and immerse in a weak solution of nitric acid (20-30 ml of acid per 100 ml of water). Of course, you can no longer touch the part, and if working with the suspension is inconvenient, help yourself with tweezers.

Rinse the parts again in hot and cold water and hang it on a wire in a glass. You can place a stick or pencil on the edges of the glass and wrap the wire around it once or twice, choosing such a height so that the part is a few centimeters above the bottom. Connect the part to the positive pole of the current source. Hang cathodes - steel plates - in the same way. Batteries can serve as a source of current, but they will run out very quickly; A battery or transformer with a rectifier is preferable.

Pour a solution of sulfuric acid into the glass with the part (20 ml of acid per 100 ml of water; be careful!). Include a key or switch and a rheostat in the circuit to regulate the current. To measure it, you need a milliammeter, but a tester, which many radio amateurs have, is also suitable. Close the circuit and set the current at the rate of 20-25 mA per 1 cm 2 of surface. The part will immediately become covered with gas bubbles - this is the release of oxygen, which oxidizes the aluminum. At room temperature the process lasts about an hour.

Rinse the anodized part in running water and begin painting. Immerse the part alternately in two dye solutions, soaking in each for 5-10 minutes and rinsing each time in running water. Rinse the painted parts again and dry.

Here are the compositions of coloring solutions and their possible concentration (in grams per 100 ml of water):

• blue or cyan color - potassium ferrocyanide (1-5) and iron (III) chloride (1-10);
• brown - potassium ferrocyanide (1-5) and copper sulfate (1- 10);
• black cobalt acetate (5-10) and potassium permanganate (1.5-2.5);
• yellow - potassium dichromate (5-10) and lead acetate (10-20);
• golden yellow - sodium hyposulfite (1-5) and potassium permanganate (1-5);
• white lead acetate (1-5) and sodium sulfate (1-5);
• orange - potassium bichromate (0.5-1) and silver nitrate (5-10).

O. Holguin. "Experiments without explosions"
M., "Chemistry", 1986

» Chemical staining of brass

Chemical dyeing brass

Having purchased, at one time, photo-etching from a Czech company Extratech for Tu-154M (on a scale of 1:144), I was amazed at the subtlety and delicacy individual elements. I was especially pleased with the filigree imitation of riveting on the reverse buckets. The engine nozzles are of large scale thickness. The rims on the chassis disks also look realistic.

The impression was intensified by the new release for Il-62M , having the same D-30KU engines.

At the same time, it became clear that trying to prime and paint small parts now means ruining everything! Moreover, there are many methods of chemical processing of brass that allow you to give it any color.

Majority chemical reagents always at hand - salt, soda, water. But it is still better to conduct experiments outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, since toxic fumes and gases may be released. And no one canceled glasses and rubber gloves.

So, armed with long-forgotten chemistry textbooks and the Internet, let's begin!

P pre-bleaching of brass

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes with the addition of tin, nickel, lead, manganese, iron and other elements. And if copper has a pinkish tint, then brass is golden yellow.

Both brass and copper oxidize and darken in air. Therefore, before chemical treatment It is imperative to remove oxides from the photo-etched surface.

RECIPE:

Alcohol or acetone
Citric acid (available in grocery stores)
Table salt

Into a glass hot water add a teaspoon citric acid and a teaspoon of table salt.

Photo-etching is degreased with alcohol or acetone and placed in the solution for 5-10 minutes. When finished, wash with water and detergent.

You cannot use metal utensils as a container, and removing the product with steel tweezers may leave a copper coating.

Bleaching accelerates with increasing solution temperature or citric acid concentration.

Important! Do not overexpose the product in acid - the so-called “dezincification” of brass may begin - it becomes unnaturally pink-red.

The bleach solution is corrosive, so you should avoid getting it on your hands and clothing.

Brass bluing

So, let's try to imitate the color of the low-pressure blades of the Tu-154M engine.

For work we will need:

1. 10% ammonia solution (sold at any pharmacy);

2. HOM - copper oxychloride (sold in gardening stalls);

3. Glass jar.

Pour a little ammonia into a jar and add half a teaspoon of HOM. Stir. Add some water.

At first the solution has a cloudy turquoise color, then becomes inky blue.

After degreasing with medical alcohol, we hang the brass part on a thread and dangle it in the solution for about half a minute. Then we rinse clean water and dry it.

The part takes on a beautiful olive-brown color, very similar to tape. The surface is perfectly flat.

It is important not to overexpose the part in the solution. It may become brittle and crumble.

Having created a dark base, we can now apply a thin layer of thinned metallic enamel paint of any color.

The entire operation from start to finish took no more than ten minutes.

Attention! Ammonia vapors are very harsh and poisonous. It is better to carry out the process outside, wearing a respirator.

In conclusion, I want to answer the skeptics who they will say that working with photo-etching is long and difficult:

Nothing imitates metal more than... metal itself.

I express special gratitude to my colleague Sergei Utenko from Novosibirsk for valuable advice and comments

Products made from copper alloys (brass and bronze) can be easily painted dark brown. Prepare a mixture of 4 ml of ammonia, 5 g of potassium oxalate and 200 ml of vinegar essence. It is necessary to coat the coinage with the prepared composition several times, allowing it to dry completely until it acquires the desired color.

The metallic gloss formed during this treatment soon disappears, and the product acquires an even brown color.

Shades of green can also be obtained using a solution prepared from 5–10 g of verdigris, 10 ml of ammonia, diluted in 1 liter of water.

The product is immersed in the solution several times, after which it acquires an olive green color.

For further processing add another 1 liter of water to the solution. The coinage is dipped into the bath for several minutes (the interval depends on the desired degree of coloring), then dried over the fire.

The operation is repeated several times until the metal acquires the desired color.

IN purple products made from copper alloys are painted as follows: the coinage is heated to 70–80 °C and wiped with a piece of felt or cotton wool soaked in antimony oil.

The green color of the coinage is acquired after treating the surface with a weak solution of copper nitrate and table salt. After the product has dried, it is wiped with a solution of 5 g of potassium oxalate and 10 ml of ammonia diluted in 100 ml of vinegar essence.

Painting should be carried out in this sequence until the surface color becomes dark green. To speed up the reaction, the coinage is heated over a fire to a temperature of 50–60 °C.

There is another way: the product ready for painting is treated with a swab soaked in oleic acid. A dark green layer of copper oxide forms on the surface. After some time, it begins to fade and eventually becomes light green with a yellowish tint. To fix the color, the operation is repeated several times.

All shades of yellow can be obtained by treating the coinage with a neutral solution of copper acetate (jari verdigris).

In addition, the following composition is used: 20 g of sodium hydroxide and the same amount of milk sugar are thoroughly mixed in 1 liter of water and subjected to prolonged boiling. 20 ml of a concentrated solution of copper sulfate is gradually added to the mixture.

The solution is allowed to cool and short term The processed products are placed in it, after which they acquire a golden hue. This processing method is often used for gold coloring.

A more saturated color with a reddish tint is obtained after wiping the surface with a paste of 4 parts powdered chalk and 1 part gold leaf, which are diluted with distilled water.

Sometimes a composition containing 15 g of ammonium sulfate, 10 ml of antimony chloride solution and 30 ml of water is used. It must be boiled and filtered several times, the sediment must be stirred in 2-3 liters of hot water. For better dissolution, add caustic soda.

The product is immersed in the bath and held until it acquires the desired color.

The coinage can be painted silver with a solution of 40 g of tartar and 14 g of tartar emetic in 1 liter of hot water. Then 50 g of hydrochloric acid, 125 g of tin powder and 30 g of antimony are added there. The composition is heated and the product is boiled in it until it is covered with an even coating.

Another method of painting - mechanical - requires special equipment and skills. For this, powder paints or fine metal dust of various colors are usually used; the work requires a spray bottle, solvents and binding substances, which leave a thin layer of protective film on the surface of the product.

If all this is missing, then the powders are simply hammered into the metal with a mallet or a flat hammer. It is better to repeat this process several times, in between washing the embossing under running water.

After this method of painting, the surface must be treated with varnish - colored or transparent, the choice depends on the desire of the master.

It must be remembered that varnishes become cracked and become cloudy under poor storage conditions.

You can apply metal particles to the product using special equipment under pressure. But this method is very expensive and is not always available to a master working at home.

From the book: Korshever N. G. Metal work

Acrylic Brass Paint - protective, decorative paint with a metallic brass effect. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation and weathering, oils and gasoline. Has good adhesion and increased color stability. Withstands temperatures up to 80°C. Used on metal, plastics, wood and glass. Ideal for decorative purposes metal structures, for painting gates, forged products, for protection and updating appearance steel pipes etc.

METHOD OF APPLICATION. The surface to be prepared for painting must be dry and clean, free of rust and grease. For highly absorbent surfaces, it is recommended to apply a sealing layer (eg dispersion paint). Shake thoroughly for 2 minutes. Spray from a distance of 25-30cm using side-to-side movements. Operating temperature 18-25°C. The coating will be dry from dust in 10 minutes. Complete cure after 4-6 hours. Sufficient to cover approximately 3 m2.

ATTENTION. Pressurized cylinder. Protect from exposure sun rays and do not heat above 50°C. Dispose of empty cans and waste properly. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray onto hot objects or flames. Keep away from sources of ignition. No smoking. Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not inhale fumes. In case of contact with eyes, rinse with clean water. Do not allow it to enter the sewer or groundwater. Keep away from children.

Manufactured by Eckart GMBH, Germany. Volume 400ml

Additional option

Meaning additional option

IN MOSCOW AND MO:

Pickup:

The order can be picked up at the address: Volokolamsk highway, 87, b.1 on weekdays from 10:00 to 19:00. Delivery of goods on weekends by prior agreement.

• From Tushinskaya metro station: any bus to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"
• From Volokolamskaya metro station: bus No. 2, 904, 266, 614, 741, 248, 210, 930 to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"
• From Mitino metro station: bus No. 614, 741, 266, 930 to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"
• from Pyatnitskoye Shosse metro station: bus No. 2, 904, to the stop "Academy of Communal Services"

ATTENTION! Check product availability by phone before your trip!

By courier:

Available in Moscow within the Moscow Ring Road from Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 21:00.

• Delivery time is 1-2 days from receipt of order.

Delivery cost in Moscow:

• 350 rub. when ordering less than RUB 1,000.
• 290 rub. when ordering more than 1000 rubles.

Delivery cost outside the Moscow Ring Road: 30 rubles/km + 300 rubles. (basic tariff).

To SDEK and Boxberry pick-up points

When ordering, you must select the most suitable item on the SDEK or Boxberry website and indicate it in the comments to the order, or we will clarify it by phone. Delivery time: 2-3 days / Delivery is paid.

Our managers will inform you about the completion of your order by phone or email. You determine your own convenient delivery date and time.

DELIVERY IN RUSSIA:

Cash on delivery (Russian Post):

• When delivering by cash on delivery, you pay for the goods upon receipt at the Russian Post office.
• Postal delivery is carried out by the Federal State Unitary Enterprise "Russian Post".
• Delivery time is approximately 5-15 days on average, depending on the remoteness of the delivery region.
• According to postal rules, the weight of the parcel should not exceed 10 kg. If exceeded, the order will be divided into several shipments.
• The cost of the delivery service depends on the weight of the ordered goods, their cost, current postal rates, and is calculated individually when placing each specific order at the stage of selecting delivery and payment methods.
• In order for your order to be completed quickly and efficiently, please indicate the exact postal address with zip code, full name of the recipient and contact phone number.
• Our managers will inform you about the completion of your order and the date of dispatch by email. According to postal rules, an item that is not claimed by the recipient within a month is returned to the sender. Please receive your orders by mail promptly.

ATTENTION! When choosing the "cash on delivery" delivery method, a partial prepayment is charged, which depends on the cost of sending to the destination and the cost of the goods.

SDEK courier service

More information about SDEK company

Courier service Boxberry company

Learn more about Boxberry. Please check with our managers for the cost and delivery time.

Transport company:

• We ship the order with the transport company you specify. Delivery to transport company within Moscow it is free. The order is paid before shipping, i.e. by prepayment.

PAYMENT

For cash:

• Payment is made at the delivery address, after inspecting the delivered goods and reading the accompanying documents. Payment of delivery costs is made simultaneously with payment for the goods. Payment for delivered goods is accepted only in rubles.
• You can refuse to purchase a product after it has been delivered. In this case, payment is taken only for delivery.

By bank card:

• Payments accepted bank cards VISA and Mastercard. You can pay by card through a terminal at the pick-up point or through the RosEvroBank electronic payment system (in this case, you will receive an email with payment instructions).

By bank transfer:

• For organizations, payment by bank transfer is possible with the provision of all necessary documents.

Payment by cash on delivery:

• Cash on delivery involves delivery by mail and payment upon receipt of the order. By choosing this method, you will have to additionally pay a commission from the Federal State Unitary Enterprise "Russian Post" in the amount of 4-7% of the cost of the order with delivery for sending money. When choosing this method, please pay attention to your full name. the client placing the order coincided with the data of the real Recipient.

RETURN OF GOODS

• Return of goods is made to the address: Moscow, Volokolamskoye Shosse, 97 from 13-00 to 17-00 from Tuesday to Thursday. We kindly ask you to coordinate your arrival time by phone in advance.
• Returns of goods from other regions are carried out by postal delivery. If the buyer refuses the goods of proper quality, the cost of delivery of the goods from the buyer to the seller is not refunded. Return cash carried out within 10 days from the date of receipt of the return kit at the store.

You will find a list of them at the bottom of the page.

Painting is a great way to enhance and revitalize something. However, everything is not so simple when it comes to brass items, such as lamps, fasteners and other products. However, it is possible to paint brass: the secret is to properly clean the surface and apply a primer before painting. As a result, the paint will lay down in an even, uniform layer, adhere well to the metal and retain its original appearance longer.

Steps

Part 1

Prepare the surface

If necessary, separate the part. Some brass items such as door handles, water taps and fasteners are easier to paint if separated from the mounting area. There are also isolated objects, such as furniture, cutlery or lamps.

• If you remove any screws, nails, or other fasteners, save them so you can reattach the removed piece after painting.
• It is also advisable to check whether the part you are interested in is actually made of brass. To do this, bring a magnet to it. Brass is a non-ferrous alloy and does not contain iron, so it will not be attracted to a magnet.

1. Move the item to a well-ventilated area. Paint in an area with good ventilation, such as a garage or a room with wide open windows. This way you will be protected from harmful fumes. Also, wear a gauze bandage.

   • To protect the floor from paint, place an unnecessary rag on it. Place the brass item on a rag or on a work table or bench.
   • Before you start painting, open the windows and turn on the ventilation to prevent harmful fumes from accumulating in the room.
   • When painting, protect yourself with gauze, gloves, goggles and other similar means.
   • Make sure that dust does not fly around the room.

2. Scrub the item with steel wool. One of the most important steps when painting brass is to thoroughly clean the surface. This way you will remove dirt and traces of corrosion, and the paint will stick to the surface better. Wipe the entire surface with steel wool and rub special attention corroded and heavily contaminated areas.

   • After you have scraped off any dirt or corrosion from the surface of the part, wipe it with a damp, lint-free cloth.
   • Paint adheres better to rough surfaces, so steel wool can be used. Do not wipe steel wool over brass unless you intend to paint it.

3. Clean the surface with a degreaser. Before painting a metal surface, remove any grease, dirt, or grime from it. If grease, dirt and grime remain on the brass, the paint will not adhere well to the metal. Dampen a lint-free cloth with degreaser and wipe down the entire surface you are going to paint. After this, wipe the metal with a clean cloth dampened with water and wait about 10 minutes for it to dry.

   Part 2

   Apply primer and paint

   1. Choose spray paint in a suitable color. The paint must be suitable for metal: enamel, acrylic or oil paint, or other paints that, after drying, form a hard coating. As a rule, metal paints are produced in aerosol form, although liquid paints are also available for sale.

      • Do not use latex paints as they do not adhere well to metal and are not durable. Latex paint Only suitable if you have a high-quality primer.

   2. Apply a coat of primer. For brass, a reactive or bonding primer is best. This primer is a mixture of acid and zinc and will adhere to brass better than any other type of paint or primer. Shake the can of primer thoroughly and bring it 15–20 centimeters to the metal surface. Spray the primer in a wide, side-to-side motion. Apply the primer in a thin, even layer.

      Apply a few thin layers paints. After the primer has dried, spray paint in the same way. Shake the can and apply the paint using broad strokes from side to side. To spray a thin, even layer of paint, hold the can at a distance of 15–20 centimeters from the surface.

   3. Apply a clear protective layer. Once the paint has completely dried (usually about 24 hours), you can apply clear top layer. This will protect the paint and metal surface and give it extra shine. Choose a clear or enamel finish designed specifically for metal.

      • Shake the can and bring it 15–20 centimeters to the surface. Spray the coating using even strokes to obtain an even coat.
      • Set the part aside and wait until it is completely dry (follow the manufacturer's instructions). Usually protective coatings dry quite quickly, sometimes in just 30 minutes.