There are a large number of knives available in stores. They have different design, purpose, are carried out using modern technologies. In addition, the materials for production can be not only metal, but also ceramics of special rigidity. These knives are very sharp long time do not need sharpening, but are quite fragile. Once a chip occurs, it is not possible to restore the knife to its previous appearance, especially at home.

The blades of the knife should be made of hardened steel so that it is comfortable to use.

In order for a knife to be pleasant to work with and at the same time convenient to cut, it must sit securely and comfortably in the hand. With a comfortable handle, it can be used for a long time. But it is not always possible to find such a knife ready-made. Then you can do it yourself. This takes into account the characteristics of the palm, the length and shape of the cutting blade. Knives must be made of hardened steel. Therefore, homemade knives from saws will fully meet the requirements.

Knife making options

Homemade knives can be made from a variety of metal parts, which cannot be used for their intended purpose, as they have become unusable.

Among the details from which we can highlight several:

• worn motorcycle connecting rods, from which you can make a set of knives of various lengths;
• wheel wrenches with 1 broken end;
• crutches that are used when laying rails;
• disks circular saw various diameters and thickness;
• damaged pendulum saw blade.

With certain forging skills, you can make a knife from a thick metal cable or a chain from a home appliance. A chainsaw is ideal for this. Its chain is quite strong, and a homemade knife will look like Damascus knives.

If the circular saw has large diameter disk, and its damage is minimal, then it can make two homemade knives. The discs have significant metal-made strength, since the saw is used for various purposes for a long time.

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Materials and tools

To make a homemade knife, you will need the following equipment:

1. Woodworking machine. If it is not there, then you can use it to pre-cut the handle electric jigsaw. For final sanding, sandpaper of different grits is used.
2. Nails or better copper wire for rivets.
3. Wood.
4. Machine for grinding and sharpening. In its absence, you can use a grinder, a hammer drill, or a high-power drill. In addition, nozzles or circles are needed with which these operations can be performed. One of these tools should be firmly secured and then work done.
5. Files with various types of cuts.
6. Marker.
7. Brass plate and rod, if the handle will not be attached with rivets.
8. Epoxy glue.

Knives should have a comfortable handle. For her the most suitable material is wood. The most commonly used are birch and oak blocks. These rocks are the hardest and are less susceptible to moisture during prolonged use. They are pleasant to the touch and have a beautiful texture. Since making a knife handle does not require large quantity source material, then for these purposes you can use 1 parquet board, cutting a board or block. It is important that wooden blank was not damaged, cracked or contained chips or other defects.

After the blade is sufficiently calcined, you need to cool it.

In order to make a knife, it is necessary to use certain grades of steel. It should be remembered that the characteristics of the metal depend on how the metal was hardened technologically. For example, as hardness increases, brittleness increases. metal products. Steel grades R6M5 or R3M3F2 are suitable for the knife. In this case, a metal thickness of 2 mm will be sufficient.

The strength of a homemade knife does not depend on the thickness of the metal. It is influenced by its geometric dimensions: length, width, shape of the blade and trigger. At making the right choice These components and careful processing of the metal guarantee an excellent knife. Such grades of steel are used in the production of disks, blades, and tools such as, for example, a circular saw.

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Hacksaw blade knife

If you decide to use a hacksaw blade as a metal blank, then you need to take a blade from a pendulum saw. This saw performs work on thick metal (for example, rails) and meets the requirements for rigidity and strength. The size of such canvases ranges from length/width/thickness, 400-500:30-40:2 mm. The color is determined by the type of manufacturing treatment the saw has undergone and can be black or grey.

Before you start making a knife blade, you need to check the integrity of the metal. This can be done by ear, but this requires some experience and skill. The whole canvas publishes ringing sound, damaged – deaf. If it is difficult to do this by ear, then it is imperative to carefully inspect the metal workpiece.

The outline of the future knife is drawn on a whole piece of canvas with a marker.

The blade angle should be 20 degrees.

Moreover, this should be not only the blade, but also the allowance, which will then be hidden in the handle. After this, on a metalworking machine (or a carefully secured grinder with a circle), it is necessary to gradually and carefully remove the excess.

This should be done slowly, as the metal may heat up. To cool it down and continue working, take a bucket of water. This container should be enough for the workpiece to be placed completely in water. The contours of the blade are made using the same machine. It should be borne in mind that the peculiarity of this steel is that with a sharp change in the temperature of the metal, tiny cracks can form in it. This can lead to the knife breaking even with little force. Therefore, the metal should not be allowed to overheat during its processing. You should be especially careful when cutting the edge, because as the thickness decreases, the metal heats up faster.

First cutting tools, made by man, were made of stone. The ancestors of modern knives were very fragile and required a lot of time and labor to manufacture. The metal blade is devoid of these main disadvantages. Steel is relatively easy to process and has good physical characteristics.

A knife made by yourself is the pride of the owner. At self-production those characteristics that are necessary are selected. First of all, this is the shape of the blade and handle. The highest quality blades, such as damask steel or Damascus steel, are made by forging. The blade material has the necessary hardness and carbon content.

But forging requires certain tools and skills. What should you do if you want to make your own unique blade, but only have a minimal set of tools at hand? In this case, you should pay attention to a circular saw as a blank for the blade. The metal from which the canvas is made circular saw It lends itself well to hardening and has the necessary elasticity, so the saw will be the optimal workpiece for making a knife with your own hands. A homemade knife made from a circular saw holds an edge well, does not break, and can easily compete with industrial knives.

Creating a knife layout

The first step is to create a model of the future knife from a saw. At this stage of work, you can decide on the shape of the blade of the future blade and the shape of the handle. The layout is best made from thick cardboard or thin plywood. You can also use thick plastic. A rigid pattern will allow you to understand how a knife from a circular saw will lie in your hand and how convenient it will be to use.

When making a layout, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

• Right angles must be avoided. A right angle is a place of stress concentration. The blade of the knife most often breaks or cracks in this place.
• The shape of the blade must be chosen based on the purpose of the future knife. The most versatile forms are those with straight or descending butts. Such a blade can cut and stab equally well.
• The dimensions of the layout must correspond to the size of the circular saw blade.

When making a model, you should also remember that a knife can be classified as a bladed weapon. It all depends on the shape and size. Manufacturing and possession of bladed weapons is criminally punishable. Therefore, in order not to fall under the article of the criminal code, it is necessary to create a layout that complies with the following rules:

• The length of the blade or cutting part should not exceed 9 centimeters. Exceeding this length even by 1 mm will allow you to classify a homemade blade as a bladed weapon.
• A knife with a blade thickness of more than 2.6 mm is also a bladed weapon. This parameter can be neglected, since the thickness of the saw blade is usually 2 mm.
• Hardness should not be more than 42 units. This parameter relates to hardening, so we also skip it at the stage of making the pattern.
• The handle should have a limiter that protrudes beyond its limits by no more than half a centimeter. If there is no limiter, then the sub-finger recess should be less than 4 mm deep.

Once a layout that satisfies the letter of the law and personal preferences has been drawn, you can proceed to transfer the layout to the saw blade. The pattern is applied to the saw blade and outlined with a marker. It's best to use a fine marker. Thin line will allow you to cut the workpiece more accurately and avoid unnecessary processing of the workpiece with a file.

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

The fastest way to saw a workpiece is with a grinder with a thin cutting disc on metal. If it is not possible to use an angle grinder, you can use hand hacksaw on metal. It is important to correctly install the file into the hacksaw. The teeth of the saw should be directed forward and the hacksaw should cut while moving away from you.

First, the approximate shape of the knife is cut out using straight cuts. Then the bends are cut out. The easiest way to cut them is with several oblique cuts converging at one point. It is important to leave an allowance of 2-3 millimeters to the drawn outline. This is due to the fact that when using a grinder, the metal at the cutting site overheats. By grinding off 2–3 mm using a file and sandpaper, you can remove the overheated edge of the metal.

Giving the workpiece its final shape

The rough workpiece is brought to its final shape using a file or emery. To avoid overheating of the future knife from the saw, when processing it with sandpaper, it is necessary to periodically lower it into a container of water. This will allow the workpiece to cool. When processing a workpiece with a file, no additional cooling is required. The most optimal way would be to roughly process the workpiece on sandpaper, and then fine-tune it with a file.

During final processing, you should special attention pay attention to the smoothness of the bends. It is important to ensure that the bend is smooth, without depressions or bulges. Miniature depressions can be easily checked with a file. To do this, use a marker to paint over the end of the workpiece being checked. Next, apply a file with light pressure along the workpiece along the entire bend. In those places where the trace of the marker remains there are depressions.

Processing continues until not a single depression remains.

Next, the workpiece is cleared of burrs and sanded using sandpaper. You can start with 60 grit and finish with 320 grit. The workpiece will still be subjected to heat treatment, That's why fine grinding the blade will come later.

Shank drilling

The handle on the shank can be secured with rivets or glue. Most reliable option The fastening of the handle involves the use of rivets. To install them, you need to make holes in the shank. The holes are marked on the shank so that they are located approximately in the middle of the future handle. To prevent the drill from slipping on initial stage drilling - punching holes.

Due to the fact that the circular saw is made of alloy tool steel, it will not be so easy to drill. Ordinary metal drills will not last long here.

Should be drilled cobalt drills or a ceramic drill with a pobedite tip.

During the drilling process, it is important to add oil to the drilling area and not allow the drill to overheat.

Drilling through hardened steel is quite a difficult task. Therefore, it is possible to make holes in the shank electrochemical way. To do this, attach a wire to the workpiece, then completely cover the shank with bitumen mastic or plasticine. In places of future holes protective layer scratch down to bare metal. Next, a saturated solution of table salt is prepared, into which the blade shank with a wire and an unnecessary metal plate, also with a wire, are dipped. Both wires connect to the battery or car charger. A “plus” is applied to the future knife from a circular saw, and a “minus” is applied to the plate. The etching process is accompanied by the release of gas. In 30–50 minutes the holes will be ready.

Forming the cutting edge

Before you start forming cutting edge, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. It consists of applying markings on the edge of the workpiece. The markings are placed exactly in the center and serve as a guide for making a symmetrical descent.

To do this, paint over the edge that will be cutting with a marker and, using a drill equal in thickness to the workpiece, scratch the markings. The drill has a conical sharpening. Therefore, if you place the drill and the workpiece on the same plane, the tip of the drill will be exactly in the middle.

Then, using a coarse file, you can begin shaping the cutting edge. If you do not have the proper skill to create a smooth edge, you can use simple device. It consists of a base, an angle and a guide with a platform for sandpaper. Glued onto the platform with the guide sandpaper 180 grit. Several holes must be pre-drilled in the corner vertically one above the other. The knife is fixed flat on the base and the guide is inserted into the hole at a height so that the angle between the plane of the base and the platform with sandpaper is the same as that chosen for forming the slopes. A universal angle is from 22 to 30 degrees.

Having made an even descent to the middle of the thickness of the workpiece, turn the knife over, then make the same descent on back side. Using such a simple device, you can easily form an even blade.

Thus, a finished blade with a given sharpening angle is obtained. But at this stage the blade is only conditionally ready. It does not have the necessary hardening to confidently hold an edge. And also it has not undergone a tempering procedure to reduce fragility. Essentially, this is a semi-finished knife from a saw, which you can already use, but it’s better to take a few more steps.

Hardening

Heat treatment will give the knife the necessary hardness; it will not become dull during use.

To harden the knife from the saw, it is necessary to heat it to a temperature of 750–920 degrees. If you do not reach this temperature, the steel will not be hardened, and if it is heated too much, the blade will be too brittle.

At home, it is not possible to determine the exact temperature. However, there is a way out. A simple magnet is suitable for temperature control. As soon as the blade blank stops being magnetic, it is heated to the required temperature.

After the temperature of the workpiece has reached the required limits, it must be kept in this state for approximately 1-1.5 minutes for every 1 mm of thickness. In the case of a homemade knife from a saw, the holding time for hardening is 3–5 minutes. This will be enough. Next, the workpiece is lowered into vegetable or machine oil preheated to 50 degrees. This procedure should be performed carefully. Oil vapors can ignite from a hot workpiece, so you should have a fire extinguisher on hand.

A little about the hardening forge. If you use industrial equipment is not possible, then the forge can be made with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to build a fire of such a size that it is possible to evenly heat the workpiece. Next, as the firewood burns and coals appear, a homemade knife is placed on them. You can use a household hair dryer or a pump for inflating mattresses as bellows.

Vacation

After hardening, the blade must be released. This procedure is carried out with the aim of reducing fragility, as well as giving the saw blade high elasticity. To temper, the blade is cleaned with sandpaper from scale formed during the hardening process and placed in regular oven, heated to 190 degrees. There the blade is kept for an hour, then the oven heating is turned off.

The knife should cool smoothly to room temperature.

After this procedure, the workpiece has the necessary hardness and elasticity.

Sawing out the handle blank and preparing for gluing

To finish working with the knife, you need to make a handle. There may be different variations of materials used as a handle. The most popular material is wood. The wooden handle is impregnated linseed oil to prevent the harmful effects of moisture on it.

Select a flat plank from the wood of your favorite species. The thickness of the board should be at least half a centimeter for convenience. A thick board can be sawn lengthwise. Using the knife blank as a template, markings are applied to the board, including holes for rivets. For a good fit of the future handle to the shank, it is necessary to remove the contact plane using sandpaper.

Forming the upper part of the handle

The upper part of the handle is prepared in advance for the reason that after gluing the handle to the shank, processing the upper part will be difficult. Also, during the processing process, you can scratch the blade, which is extremely undesirable. Holes for rivets are drilled according to the markings made during the preparation process. A rod of suitable diameter is inserted into them. It allows you to firmly connect both parts of the workpiece and will not allow them to move during processing.

Forming occurs using files and sandpaper. At this stage, it is important to remember the permissible dimensions of the limiter and finger recess.

The final processing is carried out using 800-grit sandpaper. Before gluing, all parts must be thoroughly degreased. This can be done with acetone or solvent. Once the degreaser has dried, glue or epoxy can be applied.

Manufacturing of rivets

The adhesive attachment of the handle to the shank is not reliable. To avoid breaking the handle, wooden plates must be secured with rivets. The rivets are made of metal that is not subject to corrosion. These can be alloys of non-ferrous metals or stainless steel. You can also use a copper or brass tube as rivets.

A blank for the future riveting is sawn off from a rod of suitable length. It should be 2–3 millimeters longer than the thickness of the handle. Holding the rivet in a vice, use a hammer to flare one end. It should look like a mushroom at one end of the rod. Next, the rivet, pre-lubricated epoxy glue, is inserted into the holes in the handle and is also flared on the other side of the handle. To flare a rivet made from a tube, it is best to use a ball from a bearing.

Giving the handle the desired shape

After the glue has dried, begin processing the handle. First, using a needle file, grind off the protruding parts of the riveting. Then the piece of wood is shaped using a coarse rasp. First, the profile of the knife handle is formed. Grind down the wood until the metal of the shank appears. Then the sharp corners are ground down and the handle is given a shape that fits well in the hand.

Sanding and varnishing a knife handle

Final sanding is done using sandpaper. Gradually increasing the grain size, it is necessary to remove all rough marks from paper of a larger grain size. It is enough to complete the process of sanding the knife handle with 600 grit paper. The last step in making the handle will be its impregnation.

There are several ways to impregnate a handle for better preservation. This is oil impregnation, wax impregnation or varnish coating.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, wax must first be melted by heating it, and heating has a detrimental effect on the strength of the glue that glues the handle. Oils must be updated periodically. And the varnish serves only the function of surface protection.

The final feature when making a knife from a circular saw will be its final sharpening. For this, it is best to use a sanding block made from a wooden plank. Sandpaper of 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit is glued onto smooth boards, one grit on each side. Also, a piece of leather is glued to the board for straightening the sharpening. With a little practice, as well as gaining skill, you can sharpen a knife so that it will cut paper by weight and shave hair.

So, with a minimum of tools and skill, but with the necessary knowledge, you can make an excellent knife from a circular saw. The characteristics of a homemade knife from a circular saw are often higher than store-bought analogues in the budget segment. Is there still space left on the saw blade after making one knife? Another knife should be made!

If you can find the source of the used saw blades, you can make excellent knives from them. This steel must be hardenable at least, many claim that high-carbon steels are used in the manufacture of saw blades.

The knife is made quite simply classic scheme. Maybe you will learn something new from this manual. The author does not use a grinder, grinder or other fancy tools in production; everything is done by hand, not counting the hardening devices.

Materials and tools for making a knife:
- saw blade;
- marker with a fine tip;
- cardboard, scissors, drawing tools for making a template;
- hacksaw for metal;
- files of different grain sizes;
- vice;
- drill with drills;
- wood and brass pins for making the handle;
- clamps;
- water stone for sharpening;
- sandpaper of different grits and more.

The process of making a knife from a saw blade:

Step one. Transferring the template to metal
First, make a paper template. Choose the template type to suit your taste. In the first case, the template can be created on thin paper and cut out. And then this template is simply glued to the workpiece and then cut out.

In the second case, the template is made from thick paper, such as cardboard, and then traced on a sheet of paper with a marker. This is the option our author chose. The marker should be used with the finest possible tip, as in the future there will be problems during processing.

Step two. Cutting out the blank
The work is carried out with an ordinary hacksaw for metal. You can use a grinder or a tape cutting machine, the author is simply making a knife amateurishly, so to speak “for a dare.” First, with a hand hacksaw you can cut out a very rough profile; it just cuts out straight lines. For further work you will need a vice or clamps.

Next, when the main profile is ready, you will need to cut out the rounded areas. For these purposes, the author makes several transverse cuts to the profile line, and then cuts out these places in sections. This allows you to cut out the desired shapes with a regular hacksaw.

Step three. We grind off the excess
Further work is usually carried out at least with a sharpener or grinder, and ideally on a belt grinding machine. The author does everything armed with good files. Using it, we grind off all the bumps and irregularities that remain after rough work with a hand hacksaw.
Using a file, you can also make some measurements of the plane, if there are any on the blade.

Here you need to use different files, the more you have, the better. You will need not only flat ones, but round, semicircular and others. Here you need to use a felt-tip pen as a guide; eventually, this line should be erased and disappear. Well, or you can grind the metal down to it, then whoever will choose.

Step four. Drill holes and outline the blade profile
At first the author wanted to make long, wide bevels, but the metal of the saw blade turned out to be too thin, and they had to be reduced. One way or another, to create even bevels you will need to mark them on the workpiece with the same marker.

You will also need a drill of the same diameter as the thickness of the workpiece. Place it and the drill on a flat table, draw a line along the entire length of the blade. This will allow it to be clearly divided into two halves. Then it will be very convenient to grind the bevels.

At the same stage, the author outlined and drilled holes in the metal for the pins that will hold the handle. Of course, he did not use a manual mechanical drill, but a cordless one (battery-powered). Well, electric drill, I think everyone has one.

Step five. Forming a profile and grinding the blade
The most important and difficult stage in making a knife is coming, because all cutting data will depend on it. To form bevels you will need a securely fastened block and a pair of screws. Attach the workpiece to the block and screw it with two self-tapping screws. Now, armed with a file, you can slowly form the bevels. Take your time and make sure the bevels are even.

Once the bevels are made, the blade can be sanded. This will remove any scratches from the file. Here you will need 220 grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will need to be attached to the block for convenience.
That's all, the workpiece is ready for the next step - hardening.

Step six. Hardening and tempering of metal
To make the knife as durable as possible and hold an edge for a long time, it can be hardened. Although in some cases, when making knives from saw blades, they are not hardened at all. For hardening you will need good fire, or you can use a small homemade oven, as in this case. To get the desired temperature for heating, you will need a regular household hair dryer and a piece of long tube (suitable from a vacuum cleaner). Well, then, I think you can guess for yourself how, what and where. By the way, instead of a hairdryer, a vacuum cleaner will do.

We need to heat the metal to the point where it is no longer attracted by the magnet. If you don't have experience, keep a magnet near you and check it out. The color of the metal also indicates the degree of heating. The section should be bright.

When the knife is evenly heated, it's time to cool it. The author used peanut butter for cooling. However, any other vegetable should do. Cooling will produce a lot of smoke and spatter, so do it at a safe distance and generally follow all safety guidelines.

An integral part of hardening is the tempering of the metal. If you ignore this, the blade will be strong, but may shatter into pieces if dropped on hard surface, since the metal will be too brittle. To make the knife resistant to mechanical stress, you need to loosen it a little. This is where a regular household oven comes to the rescue. It needs to be heated to a temperature of about 200 degrees Celsius and then put the blade in it for an hour. After this time, the oven must be turned off and allowed to cool with the door closed. This is how the metal is released. Further work is carried out when the metal has cooled.

Step seven. And we polish again
As you guessed, after hardening there will be a lot of burnt oil and other contaminants on the metal. They will need to be cleaned and the metal brought to a shine. Here you will need sandpaper with a grit of 220 and 400. WD-40 also significantly speeds up the cleaning process.

Step eight. Making a pen
The author makes a pen out of walnut, there is some nuance in manufacturing. Since the workpiece turned out to be too thick, the author then cuts it lengthwise with a hacksaw. As a result, two halves are formed. Here you will have to suffer a little to get an even cut.
We use the knife itself as the profile of the handle, simply outline it with a felt-tip pen or a sharp object, applying it to the wood.

Having cut out the blank and cut it lengthwise, the author then forms a rough profile of the handle. Even at this step, it is important to ensure that the planes of the handle that are adjacent to the knife are level, this will ensure good adhesion, and in general the pen will be of high quality. So we take the workpieces and run them along a piece of sandpaper or a sharpening disk.

At the same step, we drill two through holes for installing the pins. The pins should fit into the handle with some force, but be careful not to push too hard. small hole The handle can be easily split when driving in the pins. You can choose copper, brass or other pins to suit your taste.

Step nine. Glue the handle
Before gluing, be sure to thoroughly sand the metal so that the glue bonds the handle securely. Well, then you take epoxy, lubricate the two halves, install the pins, and clamp the handle with clamps until the glue dries completely. Typically, epoxy hardens completely after 24 hours, but there is also an adhesive that dries faster.

In order not to cover the blade with glue, you can seal it.

: manufacturing features

Do you want to create unique knife? Do you need a wood chisel or a sharp blade for hunting? Making a good product with your own hands is more than possible. Main. have the skill to work with metal and know what you want.

Making a knife: where to start?

Prepare everything first necessary details and tools, put them in one place. DIY saw blade knife. Do-it-yourself fultang knife. How to drill a bellows saw. Decide exactly what material you will use. If you need a sharp and durable product, make a knife from a saw.

Take the blank. A wood or metal saw blade is best suited for this purpose. As a material for making a handle for a blade, use wood (any wood you wish), textolite, or plexiglass.

What tools are needed in the knife making process?

To get started and make a knife from saws for metal, you will need:

• file;
• electric sharpener;
• electric drill;
• marker;
• ruler;
• sandpaper;
• surface polishing paste;
• copper or aluminum for rivets.

How to make a blank?

Let's figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal sheet for making a blade. Draw a blank of the future tool on it, using a marker for this purpose.

Remember that a knife is considered a bladed weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 total length products. If you design a knife incorrectly from... saws and it will be regarded as a bladed weapon - expect punishment.

Having outlined the outline of the future product, start cutting out the shape. It is important to draw the shape so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of ​​the saw teeth. Due to the layout of the saw, if you make a butt in this place, you will have to extra work by grinding the convexity.

What to consider when getting started

Don't start sharpening your knife without practicing. Take an ordinary piece of metal and try to process it. Damaging a piece of hardware is not as scary as losing it good preparation. You must not only regulate the pressure when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat the iron. High temperature not only spoils the appearance of the metal. Even if it does not change in appearance, its structure may be seriously damaged: the metal will become much softer and more fragile. A circular saw blade made from low-quality metal will have to be sharpened more often.

To check whether the iron has started to overheat, drop a couple of drops of water on the workpiece. If it evaporates immediately, quickly cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, place a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.

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Working with a workpiece

Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and difficult stage of the work - removing the slopes. The bevel is a surface on a knife that gradually tapers towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and width of the bevels. Therefore, choose the average value if you want to get a universal knife from saws.

Before starting to work on the machine, draw the expected slopes on the metal sheet using a marker. Grind carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. The slopes should be symmetrical and lie at the same angle on both sides. In this case, the blade should not be sharpened: leave an indent of approximately 0.25 mm.

To sharpen the blade, use sandpaper. For such purposes, sandpaper of 8-10 hardness is best suited. It is better to sharpen a knife from a metal saw on a wooden block. To prepare a makeshift sharpener, take a block and glue sandpaper to it.

Using coarse sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and using a finer sandpaper, you will polish the metal blade completely.

At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Same wooden block cover with felt or leather, rub with GOI paste and polish until you achieve the desired effect.

How to make a knife handle

The easiest way is to glue a handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make than attaching it to the tail of a knife. How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands? Features of making tourist knives from a circular saw blade and a metal saw. Naturally, you can choose a simple option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so hard to end up ruining the aesthetic appearance of the knife?

And now comes the most crucial stage of work. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. Therefore, be vigilant and careful.

Steel. hard, but at the same time brittle material. If the pressure is evenly distributed when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure increases and the metal can easily crack. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. DIY circular table made from a hand-held circular saw. In this case, a screwdriver. an ideal tool for achieving the goal, since it has fewer revolutions, the possibility of part failure is not so high.

After completing the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be located with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy resin.

Is it possible to simplify the process?

Craftsmen say that the hole can be made without the use of drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface of varnish. You should place a knife from a wood saw in an electrolyte solution and lower a wire with a negative charge into the container with the workpiece, and connect the positive one to a power source, which can be used as a regular battery.

As a result of such an impact, you will get a hole in the metal, although it will not be perfectly round, but you definitely won’t be able to damage the blade in this way.

Other part processing methods

If for some reason you can’t make a knife from a metal saw, no required material. replace it. Well suited for blade making car spring, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use a sharpener, but you will need a metal saw to cut out the shape of the blade. Since metal is easier to process, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. It will take longer to make a knife this way, because each stage of processing involves manual work.

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Handicraft knife from a circular saw blade, hacksaw blade on wood or from a saw on metal will serve for many years, regardless of the conditions of use and storage. Let's talk about how to make a knife from factory-made steel elements, what is required for this and what you need to pay attention to close attention. We will also tell you how to make handicraft cutters for wood carving enthusiasts.

Working tools and materials

The raw material for creating a handicraft knife can be any used or new cutting component made of hardened steel. As a semi-finished product, it is advisable to use saw wheels for metal, concrete, pendulum end saw wheels and hand saws. Decent material would be used gasoline saw. From its chain it is possible to forge and make a blade, which in its properties and appearance will be no worse than the legendary Damascus blades.

To create a knife from a circular disk with your own hands, you will need the following equipment and materials:

• angle grinder;
• emery machine;
• electric drill;
• ruler;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• whetstones for sharpening;
• files;
• center punch;
• epoxy;
• copper wire;
• felt-tip pen;
• container with water.

Additionally, you need to think about the issue with the pen. The manufactured item should fit comfortably in the palm of your hand.

To create a handle, it is preferable to use:

• non-ferrous alloys (silver, brass, bronze, copper);
• wood (birch, alder, oak);
• plexiglass (polycarbonate, plexiglass).

The material for the handle must be solid, without cracking, rottenness or other defects.

Metal handling techniques

To keep the blade strong and tight, During its creation, you must adhere to the rules for handling iron.

• The semi-finished product should not have noticeable or subtle defects. Before starting work, the workpieces must be examined and tapped. A complete element sounds sonorous, while a defective element sounds muffled.
• When creating a design and drawing of a cutting component configuration, you need to avoid corners. In such areas, steel can break. All transitions must be made smooth, without sharp turns. The bevels of the butt, fuse and handle must be ground at an angle of 90 degrees.
• When cutting and processing, do not allow the metal to overheat. This leads to a decrease in strength. An “overcooked” blade becomes fragile or soft. During processing, the part must be cooled regularly by completely immersing it in a container of cold water.
• When creating a knife from a saw blade, you must not forget that this element has already undergone a hardening procedure. Factory saws are designed to work with very strong alloys. If you do not heat the product excessively during turning and processing, then it will not need to be hardened.

The tail part of the blade does not need to be made excessively thin. After all, the main load will be applied specifically to this area of ​​the knife.

Making a knife

If the saw blade is large and not very worn, then it can be used to make several blades for various purposes. The effort is worth it.

A knife from a circular saw is made in a certain order.

• A template is placed on the disk and the outline of the blade is outlined. Scratches or dotted lines are applied on top of the marker using a center punch. After this, the picture will not disappear during the process of cutting out the part and adjusting it to the required configuration.
• Let's start cutting out the blade. For this purpose, it is worth using an angle grinder with a disc for iron. It is necessary to cut with a margin of 2 millimeters from the line. This is necessary in order to then grind off the material burned through the angle grinder. If you don’t have an angle grinder at hand, you can cut out the rough part using a vice, chisel and hammer or a hacksaw.

• The sanding machine removes everything unnecessary. This must be done carefully and slowly, trying not to overheat the metal. To prevent this from happening, the part must be periodically dipped in water until completely cooled.
• When getting closer to the outline of the future blade, you need to be more careful so as not to lose the outline of the knife, not to burn it, and to maintain an angle of 20 degrees.
• All smooth areas are smoothed out. This can be done easily by placing the part against the side area of ​​the emery stone. Transitions are made round.
• The workpiece is cleaned of burrs. The cutting blade is grinded and polished. To do this, several different stones are used on an emery machine.

Blade hardening

Connect the largest burner to gas stove to the maximum. This is not enough to heat the blade to 800 degrees Celsius, so in addition use blowtorch. Such heating will demagnetize the part. Please note that the hardening temperature varies for various types steel.

After the part has warmed up to such an extent that the magnet stops sticking to it, keep it in the heat for another minute to make sure that it has warmed up evenly. Dip the part in sunflower oil, heated to approximately 55 degrees, for 60 seconds.

Wipe the oil off the blade and place it in an oven preheated to 275 degrees for one hour. The part will become dark during the process, but 120 grit sandpaper will handle this.

Making a handle

Separately, it is necessary to focus on how the handle is made. If wood is used, then a single piece is taken, in which a longitudinal slot and through holes are made. Then the block is strung on a blade, and holes for fasteners are marked in it. The handle is fixed to the blade using screws and nuts. In the screw-mounted version, the hardware heads are recessed into the wood structure and filled with epoxy.

When the handle is assembled from plastic, 2 symmetrical plates are used. We form the outline of the handle. Armed with files of various grain sizes, we begin shaping the contour of the handle. Reduce the roughness little by little as you build. In the end, sandpaper replaces the file for support. Through it, the handle is completely formed; it must be made completely smooth. Finally use 600 grit sandpaper.

The knife is almost ready. We impregnate the handle (if it is wooden) with linseed oil or similar solutions to protect it from dampness.

Knife sharpening

If you want to get it for real sharp knife, use water stone for sharpening. As in the sanding option, the grain size of the water stone must be gradually reduced, bringing the canvas to perfection. Do not forget to constantly wet the stone so that it is cleaned of iron dust.

We create homemade cutters for wood carving

Wood cutters are hand tools, used for artistic wood carving, the cost of which not everyone can afford. As a result, many people want to make them themselves.

The cutter has a steel cutting component and a wooden handle in its structure. To make such a knife, you will need a basic set of tools.

Tools and accessories:

• emery machine;
• angle grinder for cutting workpieces;
• jigsaw;
• circular cutter;
• sandpaper.

In addition, you will need the material itself, in particular carbon or alloy steel to create a cutting tool.

Source materials:

• round block of wood with a 25 mm cross-section;
• strip of steel (0.6-0.8 mm thick);
• drills (for thread);
• disks for circular cutter.

A consumable is also abrasive disc, through which the cutter will be grinded. Used circular saw discs are useful as a key material for creating cutters.

A step-by-step guide to creating a wood cutter

Creation of semi-finished products for a cutter blade

Elements for the cutter blade are made from used circular disk. To do this, the disk is cut according to the markings using an angle grinder into several rectangular strips measuring approximately 20x80 millimeters. Each stripe is a cutter in the future.

We give an outline to the main incisors

Each cutter must be machined to the required configuration. The process can be implemented in 2 ways: by sharpening on a machine and by forging. Forging is necessary to form a deflection, and turning is necessary to form a single blade configuration.

Sharpening

To sharpen the blade, you need an emery machine with a small-grain stone. Sharpening is performed at an angle of approximately 45 degrees, and the length of the pointed part is somewhere around 20-35 millimeters, taking into account the total length of the cutter. The blade itself can be sharpened either by hand or using a tool.

Creating a handle for comfortable carving

To make using the tool extremely comfortable, you will need to make a wooden handle. The handle is made using special equipment or by hand, by planing and subsequent grinding using sandpaper.