Good day!

Not much today, but very interesting.

I make false bindings for windows with my own hands, very budget option, and I’ll tell you how this can be done.

In front of you plastic window consisting of 4 parts. The overall dimensions of the window are approximately 2000 mm by 1500.

The cost of the material, including the necessary strips for separation, is 375 rubles. Total length 30 meters, I took it with a reserve, since it is necessary to make several more windows. And the required length is 24 meters. Ridiculous price, compared to original false bindings which cost 300 rubles per meter)).

And so let's get started.

Required materials:

• We will need acetone to degrease the surface of the glass and the bindings themselves, since they do not have double-sided tape.
• Accordingly, double-sided tape.
• And the cable channel, yes, you didn’t hear the cable channel measuring 20 by 10. Choose a good one that closes tightly and is soft and slightly blue, such a cable channel will not turn yellow.
• Well that's good sharp knife with side cutters.

We make markings using a tape measure and calculate required quantity sections into which we want to divide.

We take the cable channel, measure it along the glass and cut it with side cutters. And at the end we close the lid and only then cut it in place with a knife. The more carefully you do this, the less visible the joints will be. I managed to practically not see them.

The result is obvious. Stylish, beautiful and neat. And most importantly it's cheap.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to write. There is one caveat, I haven’t looked at it from the street side yet))), well, I think if the floor is high, then in principle it won’t be bad.

And this is what Valeria writes:

« Hello, I'm talking about false binding. In short, I used 3m automotive tape, onto which deflectors and Ekoplast 20*10 cable channels are attached; the manufacturer assures that they contain the same “non-fading pigments” as in the double-glazed window profile. The summer was very sunny, nothing turned yellow yet. At the intersection of the cable channels, I also glued adhesive tape, in general, the result was a kind of overhead grille that adheres quite firmly to the window profile, but does not touch the glass and therefore does not spoil it, the entire structure can be quickly dismantled, and nothing can be washed off from traces tape I degreased everything with white spirit and finished with phenyl for each compound. I'll send you a photo))) «

I thank her for the new experience)).

Good luck everyone and don't be afraid to experiment.

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The covers can be a whole frame, divided by slabs into several parts (glasses), of two sashes or two sashes and a transom. Frames and sashes can be with or without windows. Sometimes the windows are replaced by an opening transom. Many people prefer to make frames that open.

Wood for making bindings must be dry, from coniferous species. Very durable bindings are made of oak wood, but it is very difficult to process.

Bindings consist of bars and slabs, most often rectangular shape and less often square with selected folds (quarters) of small size

for glass. The bars and slabs are connected to each other using spikes and eyes or spikes and sockets.

The bars are prepared like this. First, one side of the block is planed, then the marks are made with a thicknesser ( fine lines) on the second and third sides, and the fourth side is planed along them. After this, the second side is planed under the square and marks are made on it for planing the third side (Fig. 3).

Blind bindings made of rectangular bars

They consist of an upper, lower and two vertical bars and two slabs (horizontal and vertical), which divide the binding into separate parts or glass (Fig. 4). In nodes 1 and 3, the bars are connected using double tenons and eyes, and in node 2 with a tenon and socket. To do this, marks are first made on the planed bars using a thicknesser or comb for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds, and the width of the cutting of the bars at the miter joints is determined. Along the width of the bar, marks are applied using a square. It is customary to make eyelets on vertical bars, and spikes on horizontal bars (Fig. 5).

According to the risks, the wood for tenons and lugs is sawn through. Much depends on the accuracy of the filing: distortions and thicker tenons than the width of the eyes are possible, which can lead to splitting of the bars. If the tenons are thinner than the eye hole, the connection will be weak. When filing down tenons and eyes, you must adhere to following rules: The saw should go near the risk, but the risk itself should not be touched. Therefore, it is customary to guide the saw, i.e., its teeth, when filing, near the mark at a distance of approximately 0.1 mm from it. When filing tenons, the cutting line should go from the outside of the tenon, and when filing lugs, from the inside (Fig. 6). Having filed down the tenons and eyes on the sides of each tenon part, saw off the cheeks and hollow out unnecessary wood between the tenons, removing chips no more than 5 mm thick. The cheeks at the eyes are not cut down, but wood is selected in two cuts, that is, between the outer and middle cuts. Then the nests, eyes and tenons are cleaned, the folds are selected, and, if necessary, the moldings. The width of the folds should correspond to the edge of the tenon and eye, and they themselves should be in the same plane and not require additional corrections (Fig. 7).

After selecting the folds, the width of the eyes and tenons becomes different, and they do not fit tightly together. To avoid this, the part of the wood protruding in the places of the tenons and eyes is cut off “on a miter” at an angle of 45 o (Fig. 8).

If the spikes fit tightly into the eyes, they are cleaned a little with a chisel and chamfered. After assembly, the binding is checked for squareness using a square and a strip, applying it diagonally.

After checking the binding parts, they are marked, disassembled and reassembled, but with glue. Then the binding is checked with a square, secured in compression, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the joints, places where the tenons and eyes are located, and dowels are hammered into them with glue.

The bindings, taken out after a few hours, are dried for two or three days, then the protruding dowels are cut off and cleaned. The folds must be strictly in the same plane. If this is not the case, then they have to be cleaned with a sharp chisel.

On the outside of the lower beam of the frames or sashes, ebbs (protruding bars) are installed to drain water from the walls. At the bottom of the ebb, select a groove - a teardrop, placing it 10 mm from the edge. The ebb tide is placed not on glue (it will quickly collapse from water), but on oil paint by attaching it with screws or gluing epoxy glue. This is more durable, and through the gap between the ebb and the binding bar, rain or snow water flowing from the windows will not get onto the frame and walls.

First, rectangular bars are planed, marks are made for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds and chamfers. The tenons and eyes are sawed down and the folds are taken, the wood from the tenons and eyes is taken out, the nests are hollowed out and only after that they are chamfered or the grooves are taken (Fig. 9). The remaining work is performed in the same sequence as when assembling blind bindings.

Bindings with a window (Fig. 10) are usually made, and only for the window, quarters are selected in the bars and an additional bar is installed. If the windows open into the room, the quarters can be made overhead by attaching the slats with nails or screws. If you need a window that opens outward, the folds in the binding are deepened with a chisel to the size of the window and an additional block is placed.

The vents have a smooth rebate with a quarter or overlay, which reduces airflow. The quarters are planed, and the overlay is filled from individual slats. The window is knitted on single spikes, which are also arranged in horizontal bars.

Windows that open to different sides, have the same dimensions, and opening in one direction (inward) in a summer binding should be smaller than in a winter binding.

Casement bindings

They consist of two sashes or two sashes and a transom. They can be with or without windows. Flashings are installed on the lower bars of the sashes and on the transom. In such bindings special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the device of the vestibule, the accuracy of which determines the degree of ventilation (Fig. 11). Flashings are additionally attached to the vestibules. To obtain a rebate, the sashes are made 10-15 mm larger than the dimensions between the quarters in the box. One sash is made wider by the same amount. This is necessary to obtain a rebate, which has a gap of 2 mm in the middle and 1 mm at the edges (given per layer of paint). At the ends of the sashes, the ebb tides are cut at an angle of 45 o, in the vestibule - at an angle of 60 o, at the transom - at a right angle.

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The designs of window frames are very diverse, which depends on many factors. A big role in the choice of design is played by the established traditions of architectural solutions in a given area, the tastes and plans of the owner, as well as his capabilities.

Besides this great value in the choice of frames, it depends on the size of the window's light area, the location of the house on the site, and the number of floors in the building. If the apartment is located in common house, the architectural design of the windows of the entire building should be taken into account.The light area of ​​the window is selected as a percentage of the floor area, and according to the standards it should be at least 20-30% of its value.

Depending on the height of the room, the structural type of window is selected (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Structural types of windows: 1- for a room height of 2.5 m; 2 - for a room height of 2.7 m; 3 - for a room height of 3 m

Structurally, the bindings are made solid, casement (opening with one, two or three doors), lifting and sliding. In addition, it is possible to install a transom, one or more windows, etc.

Casement window sashes most often consist of three parts: two opening sashes and a transom tightly fixed above them. In some cases, the transom is made to open, and sometimes it is absent altogether. The sashes and transoms consist of frames (top, bottom and side) and slabs or imposts. The straps in the corners are connected with a double spike, and the slabs with the straps are connected with a single spike on glue and secured with dowels.

To make bindings, select high-quality (without knots) dry bars of rectangular or square shape. Special attention should be paid to the quality of manufacturing of bindings, since they are a kind of thermal conductivity bridges through which a lot of heat can escape.

First, one side of the block is carefully processed, then the marks on the second and third sides are marked with a thicknesser and the fourth side is planed, leveling its plane along the intended marks. After this, the second side is planed, achieving right angles between the planes of the block (Fig. 2). Then the first and fourth sides are marked with a thicknesser and the third side of the block is planed.

Rice. 2. Sequence of planing the block: I, 4-slabs; 2, 3 - bars; 5- folds; a, b, c - nodes

After processing all the binding bars, they begin to make folds. The folds must be made in such a way that in the finished binding they are located in the same plane. Otherwise, it will be difficult to achieve effective glass sealing. The dimensions of the folds depend on the type of intended seal and the thickness of the glass. For example, to seal glass with glazing bead, the folds must be wider than when sealing with putty. In addition, the size of the folds is affected by the thickness of the strapping bars and slabs. It should be remembered that too narrow folds are easily blown by the wind.

The tenon joints of the bindings should be made with special care so that they fit tightly into each other without distortions or gaps. A wide tenon, for example, can split a block when pressed into an eye, and a tenon that is too narrow weakens the connection. To cut out tenons and eyes, use a fine-toothed hacksaw with a narrow blade (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Manufacturing and joining of tenon joints of bindings

In this case, you need to ensure that the saw teeth pass along the edge of the marking line without touching it. If a tenon is being sawed, the saw teeth run along the outer side of the line, and for lugs, on the contrary, along the inner side. When assembling bindings, special attention should be paid to the angles of connection of their elements. The perpendicularity of the corners is checked with a square (Fig. 4).

External sashes with a width of more than 700 mm are often fastened with metal angles from the side of the inter-glass space, and sometimes from the outside (Fig. 5). For summer bindings, the angles are placed indoors.

Rice. 5. Fastening the sashes with metal squares

When making bindings, in the places where the sashes and transoms mutually adjoin, quarters are chosen that make it difficult to blow through the recesses. For the same purpose, quarters are also selected in bindings along the contour of their junction with the boxes, creating an influx and overlap of the binding onto the box block. The flaps are stuffed onto the sashes to cover the gaps in the narthex.

In transoms, sashes and outer sash windows, the bottom trim is made with an ebb and a groove (drip) to intercept flowing drops.

When assembling and adjusting the bindings, you need to ensure that the binding flaps fit tightly to each other and to the quarters of the box. All leaks in these places will contribute to the penetration of dust into the apartment and heat loss during the cold season.

In order to reduce air permeability, gaskets in the form of strips of elastic plastic: foam rubber, sponge rubber or cord are installed around the perimeter of the narthex in the bindings. Gaskets must have elasticity, strength and durability. For the same purpose, the gaps between the sashes in the vestibule and between the sashes and frames are covered with strips. They are placed on the sides of the sashes, achieving a tight connection to the frame and imposts. In some cases, flashings are installed on both sides, however, practice has shown that such duplication does not give the expected result.

In some cases, internal bindings are made blind, removing them in summer time and installing for the winter (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Installation of external (b) and internal blind (a) bindings

Lattice frames are used for glazing terraces, balconies and some other premises. They can be folding or with a built-in window. Such bindings allow the use of small-sized glass, and their sockets can have a rectilinear shape or a smoothly curved configuration, depending on the design concept.

The assembly of lattice bindings begins with slabs, connecting them together in the manner shown in Fig. 7. After that on internal structure From the slabs, strapping bars are put on. The connections of the slabs with the bars are made on spikes with synthetic glue.

Rice. 7. Lattice bindings: a - binding b - humpbacks; c - slab connection

The light area of ​​such frames is significantly reduced due to the sills, the number of which depends on the design of the window.

Twin bindings used in civil engineering consist of two bindings (external and internal), connected to each other on hinges and pressed against each other with tie screws (Fig. 8). In this case, a space of 50 mm or more is formed between the doors, called a plug. For a tighter fit of the sashes, insulating gaskets are laid along their bars.

Rice. 8. Paired binding: 1 - window frame; 2 - outer and inner bindings; 3 - tie screw; 4 - blanking space; 5 - glass

The cross-sections of the bars in the manufacture of these bindings are as follows: for external ones - 41*32 mm, for internal ones - 55x44 mm. Separately made bindings are tied together with special screws - ties. These ties unscrew, which makes it possible to open the bindings when wiping or repairing. The distance between the glasses is 47 mm. Paired together bindings are hung on common hinges. To avoid blowing, it is necessary to install sealing rubber gaskets in the places of the recesses, which makes it possible to open the windows in winter, since they are not covered or sealed.

To close such bindings, special wraps are needed.

The box for these bindings is made of one, from bars with a section of 94x57 mm. To drain water, a groove is made at the top of the lower trim of the box with an exit to the outside.

The glass is placed on double putty and secured with glazing beads. The window sill board is installed in the usual way.

The vertical and horizontal sections of the paired overpayment, as well as the pairing of the bindings with the box, are shown in Fig. 9.

Rice. 9. Vertical, horizontal cuts and pairing of bindings with the box for a paired binding: a- vertical section; b- horizontal section; V- pairing of bindings with the box; 1 - box block; 2 - impost; 3 - solution; 4 - elastic gasket; 5 - leaf; 6- installation of glass on a continuous layer of putty; 7 - glazing bead; S - window sill board; 9 - insulation; 10 - external drain; 11 - wooden ebb; 12 - slot in the lower bar (for water drainage)

Casement bindings

Casement bindings can be simple or with a window. When making casement frames, ebb tides are placed along the lower bars of the sashes and along the bottom bar of the transom. This is done in order to prevent the possible flow of water from the transom onto the upper bars of the sashes.

IN in this example we will look at frames that open indoors. To decorate the binding, profiled bars with moldings are used.

The technique and procedure for making bindings remain the same. First, the material is prepared, rectangular bars are planed, scratches are made, tenons and eyes are filed, making them together with the sockets. Then the folds and grooves are selected. After this, the sashes and transoms are assembled, first dry with checking, trimming and cleaning, and then with glue. After drying, trimming and correction are carried out.

It is necessary to specifically point out that when manufacturing the sashes, their height is made 10-15 mm greater than the data in the drawing. In addition, one sash is made wider by the same amount. These allowances are needed to select the quarters of the vestibule between the sashes and sashes with a transom. Often for this purpose the height of the transom is increased.

The sash and transom narthexes are made using a zenzubel, having previously secured the sash or transom in the side box of the workbench.

To make it easier to open and close the bindings more tightly, bevels are made in the outer edges of the side and middle sashes, as well as in the vents.

Having completed the narthexes, they begin to select a groove for attaching the ebb in the sashes and transom. The ebb is secured with glue and additionally with screws or nails. The ends of the flashing at the transom are straight, and on the sashes along the edges they are cut at an angle of 45°, and in the vestibule - at an angle of 60°. The strips are secured with nails or screws.

The casement binding with details and vestibule is shown in Fig. 10. The outer edges of the bindings are trimmed while fitting the bindings into place, i.e. in a box.

The designs of window frames (casements) are very diverse. Basically, the choice of one design or another depends on the desire and taste of the owner of the future home, on traditions and on possibilities.

Wood is traditional natural material during manufacture.

It is possible to make wooden window frames with your own hands.

Of course, this process requires certain skills and knowledge, but anyone who has a great desire to do everything with their own hands can do any kind of construction work, even making a window. A do-it-yourself window frame requires special care and precision from the craftsman during manufacturing.

Another important factor when choosing window design is the size of the window, the location of the building and on what floor the future window will be located. By making window frames with your own hands, you guarantee the uniqueness and individuality of your windows.

Constructions

Window frame designs are divided into several types.

The design of window frames is divided into the following types:

• blind bindings;
• casement (opening) - the doors can be different quantities(from 1 to 3);
• lifting;
• sliding;
• With additional installation transoms or windows (one or more).

Wooden casement window frames are most often made using three elements. These are two opening doors and a transom fixed above them. The transom may be blind, openable, or absent altogether.

The components of the window sashes and transoms are frames (top, bottom and side) and slabs (impost). For corner connection For strapping, a double tenon is used, and to connect the slabs with the strapping, a single tenon with glue is used, using dowels for more reliable fastening.

The manufacturing process requires the craftsman to have certain skills and knowledge, as well as accuracy and precision. But anyone who has a great desire to do everything with their own hands can do any type of construction work.

Before you start manufacturing, prepare the necessary tools:

• thicknesser;
• chisel;
• construction knife;
• hacksaw;
• sandpaper (for cleaning);
• screwdriver or electric drill with drill attachments;
• plane;
• square;
• pencil or marker;
• ruler or tape measure.

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Manufacturing technology

In order to make wooden window frames, it is necessary to select bars (square or rectangular) of the appropriate quality. They should be dry and free of knots. The quality of manufactured frames must be at high level, since they are of great importance in maintaining heat in the house.

Profiles for windows with one and two glasses

1. The first step is to properly process the block on one side.
2. Then, using a surface planer, mark the risks on the second and third sides. Align the fourth side according to the intended risks, using planing.
3. After this, you can plan the second side. It is important to achieve right angles between the sides of the bar.
4. Next, using a thicknesser, you need to mark the first and fourth sides, and then plan the third side of the block.
5. Now that all the bars have been processed in this way, you can begin to create folds. The folds are arranged so that in the finished frame their location is in the same plane. Otherwise, the glass will not have the required degree of compaction.

The size of the folds directly depends on the type of seal and glass, or more precisely, its thickness. If glazing bead is used as a seal, then the folds must be made wider than when using putty as a seal.

Another factor influencing the size of the folds is the thickness of the strapping bars themselves, as well as the slabs. Do not forget that too narrow folds will easily allow the wind to pass through.

Connections in which tenons are used are subject to particularly careful execution, such that it allows high density parts fit into each other, avoiding gaps and distortions. To make (cut out) tenons, use a hacksaw with a small and narrow blade.

When assembling a window structure, special attention should be paid to the angles at which the parts are connected. The perpendicular position is checked using a square. External doors with a width of more than 700 mm are fastened with metal angles.

The connection can be made both from the space between the glasses and from the outside. If the bindings are of a summer nature, then the angles are placed on the inside.

During the manufacturing process, in those places where there is mutual abutment of the sashes and transoms, it is necessary to select quarters that make it difficult to blow through the porches. The sashes are treated with the help of strips that cover the gaps of the vestibules.

To reduce air penetration into the house, a seal is placed in the frame along the entire perimeter of the vestibule. This could be foam rubber, sponge rubber, cord, and so on.

If the frame design contains shutters, vents or transoms of an external nature, the lower trim must be made with a groove and ebb, that is, a drip designed to collect drops flowing down the glass.

When performing the steps of assembling and adjusting the bindings, pay attention to the fairly tight fit of the rebates with each other and in relation to the box, more precisely, to its quarters. If this is not done, then dust will enter the house through the cracks, and in the cold season it will create a heat leak.

To reduce air penetration into the house, a seal is placed in the frame along the entire perimeter of the vestibule. This could be foam rubber, sponge rubber, cord, and so on. The main thing is that this seal has properties such as elasticity, durability and strength. For the same purposes, flashings are used.