Homemade bow saw. By classic scheme. Collapsible.

Introductions or ode to camp saws.

I almost always take a saw with me into the forest.
For PVD/autumn, a small saw is enough.

There is a large selection here:

Chainsaw.

Pros:
-compactness
-weight
- efficiency
-price
- you can cut alone

Cons:
- low reliability
- gets dull pretty quickly
- cutting thick trees is quite difficult

Folding hacksaw.

I walked for quite a long time with Tajima ALOR- A240 - Aluminis t Black 240, Folding Saw, 9.4in 9 TPI ​​(Japan).

I like this saw.
But it has a minus - the price.
Our saw costs about 2000 rubles, replacement blades for it are quite rare and cost about 800 rubles.
One blade is enough for 1-2 seasons of intensive use.
I'm disappointed, it's Japan after all. The company specializes in professional hand tools.

Among the advantages we can note:
- compactness
- relatively healthy weight (approximately 340g)
- high efficiency (when the web is fresh)

We went on a water trip to Karelia, we had a two-handled saw =)
Naturally, water workers don’t care about weight, but it’s still too much.
As a result, I only took out a two-handed tool once, the rest of the time I prepared firewood with a hacksaw Tajima. The saw did an excellent job with trees 20-25 cm in diameter.

But when it gets colder and you go overnight, you want to sit by the fire longer. Or in general, that hike requires something more serious.
Options? petrol is clearly not our tool =) is there a two-handed saw left? Only if it's a ski trip.
Those. I need a saw that is light, compact, and has high performance. To prepare firewood in large quantities.

Everything is new, well forgotten old.

Bow saw.

In the old days it was main tool carpenter
High productivity, precision cutting, low weight, ability to work alone.

Bow saw according to the classic design.

These are not currently on sale. I was surprised when the sellers at Liroy threw up their hands when asked about the availability of such a saw. They just don't know. And they have a saw. But from an aluminum pipe


You can carry such a saw on your backpack, but I don’t like it. And her weight is clearly more than 400g. + Price approximately 1000 rub.

What to do? Do it yourself.
Let's go.

I bought a Bahco 607mm canvas (Sweden).
The company produces extremely quality tool.

In Liroy I bought a pvc pipe for heating d25, and an aluminum pipe, plus a couple of snap hooks.
I made a frame for the saw according to the classic design with a crank.

All together weighs 340g. My Tajima folding hacksaw weighs this much. I like.
A long blade will increase productivity and the diameter of logs that can be cut.

Pricing:
Canvas bacho 630mm-450r
Liroy pipes -250r

Manufacturing is very simple. You don't even need a drill. All you need is a torch and a piece of old metal cutting cloth. The main thing is to carefully mark future holes. By heating the transverse tube we form holes on the PVC tubes. The horizontal crossbar should be slightly shorter than the saw blade itself. We heat the old metal blade and form holes in the pvc tubes for the saw blade. Everything fits me perfectly.
We assemble the saw, insert the carabiners (fix the blade). We put on the laces with any stick and twist them with a sliver. There is no need to over-tighten, just adjust the rigidity of the frame and the normal tension of the canvas.

My tubes bend a little, so I want to try to do the same but with all aluminum tubes, I wonder how much stronger and heavier it will be.

How to carry a saw? I need to sew a cover. The canvas can be protected with thin plastic, for example from a stationery folder, or simply take a stronger fabric for the cover.

There is another option to carry the saw blade in a bowler hat. Twisting it. I got this idea from Grigory Sokolov’s video link to YouTube for which I thank him. I'll try.

My saw, photos:

UPD
I’ll definitely write after I try the saw.

UPD_2

The saw passed the first test. Peels.
Two problems have been identified:
1. Coupled carabiners must be replaced with any non-coupled ones. The thread is capricious and jams.

2. It is necessary to replace plastic tubes with aluminum or wood. Insufficient saw blade tension. The tubes are bent. You can see it in the photo.

The saw cuts, but it is noticeable that the blade is moving. You can cut alone, but the output is small. If you cut together, then it’s a song. It will take 3-5 minutes to fell a pine tree and cut it into logs for “nodya”. Swedish canvas - pass!

Here's a video I found youtube
Probably the most correct saw, from my point of view.
The crossbar is rectangular, the grooves on the crossbar are rectangular, i.e. torsional rigidity.
+ the canvas is retracted into the handles.

In the arsenal home handyman there is always something functional and easy to use electric circular saw. But there are situations when you need to saw off a part and perform a small amount of woodwork, but there is no time or desire to deploy and connect the unit. In these cases, a hand saw is a great help. But how to choose hand saw on wood, so that it is convenient to use and can easily “gnaw” any type of wood, let’s look at it in more detail.

Saw is rightfully considered the ancestor of a large family hand tools. Since the creation of the first type of tool from iron, the saw has undergone many changes, having acquired numerous “sisters” capable of performing dozens of jobs.

IN household It’s impossible to do without “toothed helpers”: they are indispensable for garden pruning, small carpentry and joinery work

Hand saws for wood differ in many ways: blade size, steel grade, tooth shape, handle design. Let's look at each parameter in more detail.

How should a hacksaw blade be?

The main part of the tool is the hacksaw blade. The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a product is the length of the canvas. The possibilities of its application largely depend on this parameter. At the same time, the longer the blade, the more springy it is, which also complicates the process, especially when working with hard wood such as ash, maple or oak.

The long stroke makes it possible to apply less effort when sawing, since the cut is performed by a large number of teeth in one stroke

To cut small elements such as plinths, bars or narrow slats, you can get by with a hacksaw with a blade length of 25-30 cm. Planning to use the tool when performing more serious construction work, choose a product with a canvas of 45-50 cm.

When determining the length hacksaw blade follow the rule that the length of the saw exceeds the diameter of the elements being processed by 2 times. Failure to follow this recommendation will only make your job more difficult. The teeth of a short hacksaw will jam inside the wood, and everyone will have to make a lot of effort to move the tool to free it from sawdust. Uncomfortable work will cause premature fatigue.

Traditionally, the width of the product blade varies in the range of 10-20 cm. Models with a narrower blade are not allowed for technical reasons, since they fail at the slightest bend. But it is worth considering that too wide canvases are inconvenient for manual work.

The material used to make the blade, which is most often alloy steel, as well as its degree of hardening also play an important role.

For hacksaws, tool alloy steel with a high content of silicon and carbon grades is used:

• 65G, 60 C2A;
• 8 HF, 9 HF, 9 HS;
• U7, U7A, U8, U8A, U8G, U8GA, U9A, U10

Hardening of metal is carried out due to the influence of variable magnetic field, at which it appears electric current high frequency. Spreading over the surface, it heats the surface layer of the metal, which is hardened after cooling.

The standard parameter is considered to be a metal hardness of 45 HRC, but it is still preferable to choose products whose blade hardness is 55-60 HRC. A hacksaw with a blade of high hardness will have sufficient flexibility, but at the same time high stability of the teeth. At external inspection such a tool can be identified by the darkish tint of the sharpened teeth.

Parameters of teeth on the blade

The determining indicator of the tool’s performance and the accuracy of cutting wood is the size of the teeth.

The teeth of a hacksaw for woodworking perform a dual function: they cut the wood and, at the same time, remove sawdust

Sawing accuracy is determined by the “TPI” indicator - the number of teeth per inch.

Between these technical parameters there is an inverse relationship:

• blades with large teeth are specified high speed work, but the cut turns out to be rough and sloppy;
• hacksaws with fine teeth guarantee a clean and precise cut, but at a relatively low speed.

When determining the required tooth size, you should focus on the type of material being processed. For example, for working with chipboard, where high cutting precision is required, choose a tool with a high TPI of 7-9, and for sawing logs and garden work, where the cleanliness of the cut is not so important, choose a TPI of 3-6.

When choosing optimal option hacksaws, follow the rule that the minimum thickness of the log should in any case be greater than a pitch of three teeth

If we compare a hardened and a regular tooth, the difference is that in the first option, provided that it is used in everyday life, the product does not become dull for a long time. But a hacksaw with a hardened tooth cannot be sharpened again. When it starts cutting badly, you just have to throw it away.

An ordinary tooth can be sharpened. This can be done periodically using a special file marked with an accident mark (for sharpening saws). To sharpen the blade, it is enough to perform several movements on each tooth.

Depending on the type of teeth used, there are three types of hand saws:

1. For longitudinal sawing. The products are equipped with teeth in the form of an oblique triangle and look like hooks. The tool allows you to cut wood along the grain. Such saws are sharpened on both sides of the tooth, thanks to which they are able to cut both when passing forward and in the opposite direction.
2. For cross cutting. The teeth of the instruments are shaped isosceles triangles. This design makes it easy to saw the material as when carrying out cutting edge forward and backward. But this type of tooth is only suitable for working with dry workpieces, but not with fresh wood.
3. For mixed sawing. The products have a combined composition, in which triangular edges are combined with slightly elongated semicircular notches. This solution allows the semicircular teeth to perform a guide cut when moving the hand forward, and when returning, the triangular teeth expand the channel, removing chips and sawdust from it.

Some types modern instruments equipped with teeth that are made in the shape of a trapezoid. This solution makes the fabric more durable and wear-resistant.

But it is worth considering that sharpening such a blade is very problematic, since it is difficult to give the trapezoidal teeth the desired shape. This significantly reduces the service life of the product, after which it is necessary to change the blade or purchase a new tool.

For sawing fresh branches, it is more convenient to use blades equipped with triangular teeth processed by parallel sharpening, in which each element is sharpened only on one side and in a checkerboard pattern.

You can often find a modernized type of hacksaw on the market.

Modernized hacksaws can be easily distinguished by the teeth located on the blade in groups, between which the spaces are clearly visible

Retrofitted hand saws are effective for cutting raw wood. Wet chips easily come out of the cut through the spaces between the teeth during the cutting process, without impeding the movement of the tool.

Types of hand saws for wood

A small narrow saw is a structure that consists of a straight flat blade and a handle. It is carried out fine work: through cuts, cutting out curved parts.

This type of tool is intended for cutting wooden pieces whose thickness does not exceed 8-10 cm, sawing small branches and minor work in the garden.

When making narrow models, manufacturers install blades with triangular double-sided teeth, or with parallel sharpening. The disadvantage of the tool is that when pressed during operation, the blade can deviate from the given direction.

Option #2 - regular

A standard hand saw can be equipped with any type of teeth and often comes with replacement blades various types and execution.

To be able to cut workpieces at a certain angle using a standard hand saw, you have to purchase special miter boxes

But despite the stated versatility of their use, it is not advisable to use saws of this type in the manufacture of furniture.

Option #3 - with a butt

Both narrow and regular saws tend to bend as the hardness of the material being processed increases. In these cases, it is effective to use canvases equipped with a backing, which acts as a kind of stiffening rib.

Hand hacksaws equipped with a backing are designed to create shallow cuts in wooden surface any thickness

The presence of a backing prevents the saw from making a cut deeper than the width of the blade, since it prevents the cutting blade from passing further into the tree.

Option #4 - archery

Bow-type saws are more bulky devices that act as an analogue of a jigsaw.

The main purpose of saws of this type is to create precise cutting when working with surfaces located at any angle

Thanks to the solidity of the design and threaded connections handles, bow-type saws are able to easily overcome knots, cutting along radii and curved patterns.

Depending on the purpose and constructive solution saws can be:

• sweeping – for longitudinal cutting;
• transverse – for sawing workpieces across the wood fiber;
• round - for cutting holes, making roundings and figure sawing;
• tenon - for cutting connecting tenons, as well as cutting out simple geometric shapes on the workpiece.

Only with a bow-type hacksaw can you cut the material lengthwise and crosswise, sawing workpieces with complex lines and doing the work alone without the involvement of an assistant.

The procedure for choosing a hand saw for wood is quite simple:

1. Determine the purpose for which the tool will be used. For carpentry work, choose products with fine teeth, which ensure high cutting accuracy; for carpentry, choose blades with large teeth.
2. Frequency of application. If the hand saw will be used only for one-time work, choose a tool with hardened teeth. The service life of this type of product is quite long. In addition, you will not have to worry about sharpening and setting teeth during operation.
3. Uniformity of the canvas. While inspecting the tool, try to carefully bend the blade, setting an angle of 30-45°, and then release it. Re-inspect the canvas: the slightest deviations at the bend point, even within 2 mm, indicate low quality metal
4. Product cost. As when choosing other tools, keep in mind that high-quality models from leading brands are always an order of magnitude more expensive than consumer goods. This overpayment acts as a kind of guarantee of the wear resistance and durability of the saw. But for one-time jobs there is no point in spending money on an expensive tool.

Conventional handles are made of plastic. Prefabricated plastic handles, made of two halves, do not have sufficient rigidity. It is much more convenient to work with a tool that has a one-piece handle, which is equipped with a rubberized backing for the fingers. Availability rubber insert allows you to make a tighter grip, preventing the formation of calluses on the palm.

Pay attention to the design of the tool handle: it is desirable that it has an ergonomic shape that allows you to correctly transfer force to the blade

There are products on sale with standard and reversible handles. The second option is convenient because it allows you, if necessary, to replace the worn blade with a new one.

Keep in mind that not all hand saws come on sale already sharpened. And this seemingly trifle largely determines how quickly you can get to work.

There are many companies producing hacksaws on the market. Judging by the reviews, they have proven themselves well: the domestically produced Zubr hacksaw, the Gross Piranha of joint German-Chinese cooperation, and the Irwin Xpert made in the USA. They are famous for their decent quality at a low price, which varies between 10-20 USD.

Finally, we invite you to watch a video with tips for choosing:

Among the wide range of hand saws and hacksaws, there is one fairly common type of saw - the bow saw. This tool can be designed both for cutting metal parts and for working with wood materials. In this article we will talk about a bow saw for wood - you will find out what kind of tool it is, what its features are and what you need to know to buy a bow saw.

Bow saw device

Let's start with the most important thing - the design and purpose of a bow saw. It is used for longitudinal cuts and consists of a special beam in which the saw blade is stretched. In turn, the bow itself consists of 2 posts and handles, as well as a spacer, a tension string and a fixing twist. Also, instead of a twist, you can often see a screw with a nut in the design, which is connected to a metal bowstring. There are circular bow saws that are used to cut along a curved line.

If we compare a regular saw (two-handed or hacksaw) with a bow saw, then the tool in question has some advantages over a regular saw. Thus, a bow saw helps to obtain a more even and accurate cut, and besides, this requires much less effort and effort than when sawing with a hacksaw, for example. In addition, in some cases, two people can work with a bow, which cannot be said about a hacksaw. The advantages of a bow saw for wood also include ease of maintenance. Thus, the blade for a bow saw does not need to be sharpened, thinned or adjusted - a worn blade can simply be replaced with a new one. We also note that the clamped blade of a bow saw in a cut almost never jams. Yes, perhaps moving the saw in some cases can be difficult, but in general, it does not “chew” the saw tightly, which cannot be said about conventional saws.

For all their external similarity, bow saws from different manufacturers will differ from each other, and in some cases, quite significantly. Thus, differences exist in almost all structural parts of the instrument - this may be a different shape of the beam or handle, different way fixing and tensioning the canvases, as well as their tension.

Consumer analysis of bow saws for wood

Proline bow saw. This saw is designed for longitudinal or cross cuts, and is also suitable for curved cuts. Like most similar instruments, it consists of a beam in which saw blade. In turn, the bow has two posts, spacers and a tension string. The length of this saw model is 760 mm, which allows it to work with medium logs.

Bow sawStanley Raker Tooth. Designed to work at a medium pace with small wooden blanks. The oval cross-section of the steel frame provides the tool with high strength. The design also includes a lever for tensioning the blade, which allows you to quickly change the blade if necessary. The material of this tool is tool steel, processed and hardened. The teeth have an “American” shape, so they do not require sharpening or maintenance. This allows the tool to cope well with both fresh and dry lumber.

Bow saws Bahco. Bow saws from Bahco are presented various options, but the most popular models are 530 mm and 760 mm saws. These options are excellent for pruning trees, since they can be easily dragged between branches and cut. But, with all this, cutting with the help of one of these saws is only possible with fine gauges. For example, a log with a diameter of 10 cm will be extremely inconvenient to saw - the beam will touch the log, and the blade will bounce all the time when cutting.

Gardena bow saws. Among the features of saws from this manufacturer, it is worth noting the screw blade tensioner, as well as the included adapter with which you can attach the rods. In addition, several types of blades are supplied with this saw. There are models different lengths– for example, with a length of 750 mm or 350 mm, the difference, as you can see, is noticeable. Saws from this manufacturer have unique features. For example, a 350 mm saw has the ability to rotate the blade 360°, locking it in any position. The bow saw for wood, with a length of 750 mm, has an oval trapezoidal tube section, which helps to tightly install fixed pins with grooves, etc. The handle of such a tool is quite massive, with rubberized inserts, which makes working with this tool more comfortable. Otherwise, all types of saws presented have excellent reviews; to buy a bow saw, you just need to choose one of the presented models.

More articles from the section:

-

-

-

-

-

-

To operate a bow saw, the blade must be positioned correctly in relation to the machine. Its tilt angle should be 30°; Correct rotation is adjusted using a knob. The saw blade should be straight, without distortion and well tensioned. They saw slowly, but with confident movements; If you rush, the cut will turn out uneven.

On a high-quality bow saw in working condition, turning the handles should be difficult. After work, it is recommended to loosen the screw so as not to expose the stand to stress and not to stretch the canvas.

At longitudinal sawing The material to be sawed must hang outwards. When cutting crosswise (Fig. 1, a), the workpiece lies horizontally; when sawing longitudinally (Fig. 1, b), it can be in horizontal and vertical positions. Usually they start cutting from the nail thumb left hand (Fig. 2), which is why this technique is called “by the nail.” When sawing, the marking mark must be visible at all times. For precise cross-cutting of boards, a miter box (shtosslad) is used, which is a box in the side walls of which there are cuts made at a certain angle (Fig. 3).

For sawing wood with cross-layers, knots and other defects, a bow saw with a thickened and wider (up to 50 mm) blade is used. A circular saw, which has a narrow blade (up to 8 mm), rectangular teeth and big scam(2 - 2.5 blade thickness), as well as high machine stands, without special effort You can perform curved sawing, since a large spread of the blade gives a wide cut, in which the blade can easily be turned in the required direction.

When sharpening a bow saw secured in a vice, the file may slip and injure your hand. And holding your hand on the sharp edge of the file is not very comfortable. To insure yourself against possible injury, place a tip made of a rubber tube (length 3...4 cm) cut along the length on one side onto the file head.

After purchasing a bow saw, carpenters sometimes shorten the mullion, change the string, make wider bow stands, since shortened machines are convenient to use, wider stands reduce their deflection when tensioning the bowstring, and with a bowstring thickness of 10 mm, an even and strong tension is obtained and it is eliminated gap The string in the places where it adjoins the posts is usually wrapped with fishing line at a distance of 25...30 mm from the posts. At the same time, if the twist breaks, the bowstring does not fall off the machine.

For convenience, additionally clean the handles in the bow saw with fine-grained sandpaper and coat the entire machine with oil varnish.

To tension a bow saw, it is advisable to use a lever bowstring instead of a twisting one (Fig. 4). Such a bowstring can be easily made from two pieces of cable with a diameter of 2...3 mm. The device uses a metal lever, the end of which is bent and inserted into the hole in the mullion. The degree of tension depends on the position of the hole into which the lever fits. It takes seconds to loosen or tighten the tension on the saw blade. In addition, the cable is an “eternal” bowstring. The mullion can be made of wood, for which you need to choose hard rock(for example, beech).

To reduce friction of the bow saw blade against the walls of the cut, its thickness should be reduced. To do this, attach the canvas horizontally with a clamp to a metal base. At a distance 4...1 times the width of the canvas, secure it to the base metal plate thickness 5 times greater than the thickness of the saw (Fig. 5). Then, using a coarse file, resting its end on a metal plate, remove the layer of metal from the saw. Do the same operation on the other side of the saw. After removing the metal, sand the blade with fine-grit sandpaper.

Rice. 4. Tensioner for a bow saw: 1 - stand; 2 - cable; 3 - lever; 4 - middle.

Rice. 5. Reducing the thickness of the bow saw: 1 - saw blade; 2 - metal base; 3 - plate placed to form a thinning angle; 4 - file; 5 - clamp.

Modern bow saw It is a metal tube (or rod) bent by an arc, between the ends of which a cutting blade is stretched. A rigid arc allows you to make the cutting blade thin, long, and narrow. Depending on the size of the arc, a blade with a large tooth (4 - 5 mm high) can be from 30 to 90 cm long. The cutting blade is attached using bolts, pins or an eccentric bracket, which makes it easy to adjust the degree of its tension.

The cutting blade of some bow saws is secured using rotary couplings. They make it possible to rotate the plane of the blade relative to the plane of the saw itself. At the beginning of the cut, the saw should be held so firmly that the force of the hand is significantly greater than the weight of the saw. The hand gets tired quickly, but the cut will be smooth.

Another simple rule: the teeth of a bow saw should cut into the wood due to the weight of the saw itself. If you try to apply force, the thin and narrow cutting blade will begin to “play”, which will greatly complicate the process itself. All bow saws, the arc of which is made of a metal tube, have plastic, metal or wooden handles of different configurations and are intended only for working directly with the hand.

Almost every home craftsman has a power saw in his work suitcase. But sometimes it is necessary to saw off a part or do some woodworking, for which there is no desire to unwrap the device from the suitcase. And in this case, it would be nice to get a hacksaw for wood. Its manual version will be an excellent assistant if necessary. Let's take a closer look at the question of how to choose a hacksaw for wood!

Characteristics of a hand saw for wood

There are many differences in this tool, such as: blade sizes, steel grades, tooth shapes, as well as the design of the handle itself. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

What should a hacksaw blade be like for wood?

This element is the main parameter of the hacksaw. And the main thing about it is its length. Depending on it, the tool can be used for different purposes. There is one caveat, which is that the longer the blade is, the more springy the tool is. This complicates the process of wood carving, especially if you need to work with maple, oak, or ash.

A length of 25-30 cm is quite suitable if you need to cut small elements of beams, slats, and baseboards. If it is necessary to carry out more serious types of work, then a hacksaw should be chosen with a blade of 45-50 cm.

The basic rule when choosing the length of the blade is that it should be twice as long as the elements being processed, otherwise it will be more difficult to work. Standard sizes The width of the canvases is up to twenty centimeters. Too narrow models will quickly fail, while wide ones are completely inconvenient to work with.

Hacksaws are made from alloy tool steel, which contains a lot of carbon and silicon. Standard option The hardness of the material is 45 HRC, but for work it is still worth choosing a hardness with an indicator of 55-60 HRC.

Characteristics of hacksaw teeth

It is the size of the teeth that is the most important indicator. Their number per 1 inch shows the TPI, which determines the accuracy of the sawing process. In addition, these parameters are interrelated:

· If the blade has large teeth, then the speed is quite high, but the cut is sloppy.

· If the teeth are small, the speed of work is also low, but the cut is precise and very neat.

When faced with the question of which hacksaw to choose, focus on a TPI of 3-6 for garden work, or 7-9 for working on chipboard.

The teeth of a hacksaw can be ordinary or hardened. If the tool is used in living conditions, hardened teeth will not become dull for a very long time. But when it becomes dull, it can no longer be sharpened, and the tool will have to be thrown away.

Regular teeth can be sharpened using a file marked with an accident mark.

There are 3 types of hacksaws, depending on what teeth are used:

To cut longitudinally

· Sawing in a transverse manner

Mixed sawing

If you use modern hacksaw, in which the teeth are trapezoidal, the blade can be created durable and wear-resistant. But it is very difficult to sharpen, which means the service life of such a product is much shorter.

How to choose a hacksaw? Types and purposes

Narrow saw version

Saw small sizes, narrow shape, very effective when cutting raw wood. Wet chips come out very easily through the gaps of the teeth, so the movement of the saw is not hampered.

During the manufacture of saws of narrow shapes, their blades have triangular double-sided teeth. The only disadvantage of this tool is its ability to deviate from the desired direction.

It can have absolutely any teeth, as well as be equipped with replaceable blades.

Regardless, these saw options are best used in the furniture manufacturing process.

Saws that are equipped with an axle can be said to have stiffening ribs. But when using hacksaws and increasing the rigidity of the materials being processed, they can bend. This is why drying is so important. Its main task is to prevent the cutting blade from passing deep into the wood, for which it controls the depth of the cut with the saw so that it is not wider than the blade itself.

Such devices are already more cumbersome. To some extent they resemble a jigsaw.

To begin with, you should decide on the purpose of using the tool, as well as the frequency of its use. Decide how uniform the canvas should be, and of course, what price you are willing to “accept” and buy hand saw.

The handles are ordinary, plastic. And the presence of a rubberized insert will protect the master’s hands from the formation of calluses during wood carving. manual option hacksaws.