IN household Often a circular saw is not enough, especially if you start major renovation or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adaptation of existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly from individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

Stationary circular saw includes several main components: table, shaft, motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. They are also made from wood good tables for circular. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For homemade circular the engine fits well washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. Work for lathe performed in one installation, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Provide on the shaft seats: under the circular saw and under the pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

The characteristics of the circular saw, the engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

Transmission is done only by V-belt - when hit foreign objects under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with large diameter, and on the circular shaft - with less to increase the number of revolutions.

The rotation of the shaft with the circular saw is so many times more revolutions engine, how much smaller the diameter of its pulley is from the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. TO back side two studs are welded onto the platform and go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves, attached to the drawers with bolts with countersunk heads.The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw – conversion to stationary

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Comfortable material Finnish plywood will serve, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. She's thick enough to withstand heavy weight, moisture resistant, easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a disk large diameter, so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw, which will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. We apply the sole manual circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. To the kings stationary saw We fasten the legs, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For homemade device With constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials It is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys various diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install sawing machine three-phase electric motor, not having 380 V. You will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

Wood processing is often carried out by planing. Planing is a process with linear feeding of wood into the cutting zone, when the cutting plane, cutting surface and machined surface coincide. The planing machine has a shaft with knives that are mounted on a bed and moves around its axis. In this case, the workpiece makes a reciprocating movement. Very popular jointer. A similar woodworking machine has been used at home for the past few years. Industrial models of such equipment are quite expensive, but you can also make homemade jointer, which can also be used in wood processing.

Main nodes

Before you make a homemade jointer, you need to create drawings and understand the main elements that will be included in the diagram. Typically, a planing machine consists of the following main elements:

1. beds;
2. shaft with a knife;
3. roller;
4. electric motor from which rotation is supplied;
5. several tables;
6. stubborn skate.

The created drawing of a homemade jointer must contain information about the distance at which the electric motor with a roller and the shaft with knives are installed. The circuit determines how much the number of output rotations will be reduced and the power increased.

Manufacturing

We make the bed

The base for the machine is the bed. You can do it yourself, taking into account the following points:

1. A metal profile is most suitable for creating a homemade jointer bed. It is lightweight and easy to dismantle.
2. When creating a drawing, you should take into account that the structure must distribute the load and be stable.
3. All elements must be firmly fixed. The mechanism installed on the bed, taking into account the material being processed, exerts a significant load.
4. The elements are fastened together by welding or threaded connections. If you need a homemade jointer to be mobile and transported if necessary, then you need to choose threaded connection. Welding is more reliable, but the structure will not be dismountable.

It is worth considering that the jointer must be installed level. Therefore, when connecting all elements, the level is strictly maintained.

Installation of the blade shaft

Homemade jointer, like industrial version execution, has a drum with knives on the surface, which, when rotated, removes wood from the surface of the workpiece. The installation features of this element include:

1. The drum is a mechanism that consists of two bearings, a blade and a central shaft to which rotation is transmitted.
2. It is almost impossible to make blades with your own hands, since this requires a lathe and a vertical milling machine.
3. The drum is installed on the frame through bearings that have special fastenings.
4. The mechanism with blades must be firmly attached to the base, since it is on this unit that the entire load is concentrated.
5. A belt pulley must be installed at the end of the output shaft. At the same time, you can make it yourself. The profile of this element should be selected to match the belt profile.

Many drawings have a diagram in which the blades are mounted on an axis in the central part of the bed.

Table

The design has two tables, which are located on opposite sides of the drum. The complexity of their manufacture lies in the fact that the fastening mechanism must rigidly fix the surface. A do-it-yourself jointing machine must have smooth surface tables. This is due to the fact that the wood will be fed under strong pressure. If strong friction occurs between the table and the workpiece, processing becomes significantly more difficult.

In addition, one should take into account the fact that the table must be leveled relative to the drum with blades. In this case, the height must be adjusted, for which a special mechanism is installed. You can create a similar adjustment mechanism with your own hands by using a threaded connection.

One more important point we can say that the table should have a width and length according to what kind of workpieces will be served. You can also make a collapsible mechanism with your own hands.

Motor Drive Installation

The cutting tool rotates from electric motor. When considering recommendations for installing an electric motor, consider the following points:

1. It is quite important to choose the right type of electric motor and its power. A homemade planer can remove a fairly large layer of material in one pass. For domestic use, an electric motor with a power of more than 1 kW is suitable. IN lately Models powered by 220 V are very popular.
2. The machine will work correctly if the electric motor pulley is in the same plane as the drum pulley. This is quite difficult to do; you need to use measuring tools and a level.
3. It is important to choose the correct pulley diameters. The difference in diameters makes it possible to reduce the number of output revolutions, which significantly increases traction force.
4. The belt must be well tensioned. It is worth considering that they are produced according to established standards and have a certain length. Therefore, the distance between the pulleys is carefully measured.
5. It is recommended to create a seat on a homemade jointer for the electric motor with the ability to adjust its position. This will allow the belt to be tensioned when its length has increased due to wear.

Particular attention is paid to the safety of a homemade jointer. The electric motor of the machine must be grounded not through the frame, since under certain circumstances electric shock may occur.

Hard stop

Last structural element, which you can also create with your own hands, is a hard stop. It is necessary to maintain the linear movement of the workpiece along the table. For this purpose, the craftsman, while feeding the workpiece in the longitudinal direction, also exerts shear force. The emphasis is installed on the far edge of the table; you can make it with your own hands from an ordinary piece of wood, for which it is enough to improve the quality of the surface for a minimum degree of roughness.

In conclusion, we note that a homemade jointer is made as safe as possible, since it has large number rotating elements. To do this, you can create a special casing from wood or plastic that will cover the electric motor, rollers and belt. You also need to pay attention to the fact that a homemade jointer must have a rigid installation.

All photos from the article

Wood processing often involves removing a certain layer from it. This can be done manually, but it is best to use a special mechanism. If you like making from wood products various products, you just need to purchase or construct a household wood planer. Today we will deal with the second case.

Equipment capabilities

What you can do with a planer:

• various furniture for cottages and apartments;
• fence;
• stairs; (See also article.)
• prepare the cladding;
• renew old wood that has darkened over time.

The photo shows one of the options for a multifunctional wood cutting machine with a cantilever engine located on the side of the circular saw

We make a planing machine ourselves

Like any equipment that uses rotating parts and consists of several components, it is quite complex to manufacture. It’s very good if you have some experience working with it, which will be very useful when designing and implementing your plans.

In fact, we will construct a mini-complex where we can use wood:

• cut along and across the fibers, for which you will need a circular saw;
• plan;
• grind and ;
• sharpen;
• drill.

The equipment will consist of 2 machines:

1. Circular saw with jointer.
2. Turning and drilling.

In this case, the first will be a kind of support for the second. We are more interested in the first one, so we will talk about it later in the article.

Scheme

1. An aggregate layout will be used - a circular saw and jointing knives are placed on the same rotor shaft.
2. It will be possible to simplify the equipment as much as possible and increase its functionality.
3. In this case, the placement of the main components and assemblies is as rational as possible.

Alas, it will not be possible to make a machine only from parts made by yourself, so you will have to involve professionals with their machine park. This mainly concerns the main shaft and bearing seats.

But, no one forbids you to adapt to it the parts available on the farm, when they belonged to other mechanisms, for example, a frame from sewing machine. Moreover, it is often possible to do this without any special alteration of the latter.

Let's look at the equipment details:

bed	You will need channel No. 5 with a wall thickness of 8-10 mm. From it you will need to make: crossbars; kings; spacer substrates. It and the frame can be made dismountable using bolts, or made monolithic using a welding machine.
Knives and saw	For jointing you will need special knives made of durable steel, which should be securely bolted into the grooves of the main shaft. The cutting of boards and beams is carried out with a circular saw with Pobedit tips.
Rotor	The most important detail equipment. Knives, a saw, a milling cutter, a drill, a slotter or a polishing disc are attached to it. As stated above, it is better to entrust the manufacture of the part to a professional turner, who needs to be given a correctly made drawing.
Plates	Three desktops are used: two for working with jointing; one for the circular saw. The thickness of the tables is at least 5 mm. Gaskets are used for adjustment, but a threaded mechanism can also be attached. On the plate for the circular saw, you should prepare a place for a guide bar, which will greatly facilitate the cutting process. The width between it and the circular saw will be the size of the cut.

Advice: the nut on the rotor must have a right-hand thread, then it will self-tighten during operation.

Drive

1. For normal operation of such equipment, it is necessary to purchase a three-phase 380 V electric motor with a power of at least 3 kW.
2. The operation of the main shaft will be carried out using a double-ribbed V-shaped belt.
3. The engine can be attached in a cantilever position, secured inside the frame, which will solve the problem of the necessary belt tension. You should also consider a stationary method, but then you need to make a slide to adjust it.

1. The higher the speed of the working shaft, the cleaner the wood processing will be. Therefore two pulleys should be used different diameters, and the larger one should be on the engine.
2. Supply power to the motor via a 4-wire cable, taking all measures to ground the equipment. The machine should be turned on using an automatic machine, which, in the event of a short circuit or overload, will instantly turn it off.

1. It is necessary to periodically carry out preventive maintenance of the equipment:

• inject bearings;
• check the reliability of the knives;
• assess the condition of the teeth of the circular saw;
• inspect the belts;
• check the electrical cable.

1. Do not forget that this equipment is dangerous during operation due to rotating parts, so they should be covered with a cover.
2. During work, be extremely careful and follow safety rules.
3. During the planing and cutting process, do not use excessive force to speed up the process.

1. Install above your workplace good lighting, and do not clutter up the space near the machine with unnecessary things.
2. Pay attention to the floor surface - it should not be slippery.

Tip: Use rubber mats or conveyor belts to prevent accidents.

1. It is advisable to work together if you have to plan long blanks– one for serving, the second for receiving.
2. If you have to cut a large layer, remove the shavings from the table more often or use a dust extractor.

Making a jointer on a wooden bed

The instructions below will tell you everything step by step:

1. Prepare the motor and main shaft.

   

2. Draw the model on the computer or by hand.

   

3. Draw the equipment details to scale.

   

4. Prepare a place for the rotor bearings.

   

5. Place the motor and rotor on the frame and connect them with a belt.

   

6. Make a mechanism for the feed table that can be raised and lowered.

   

7. Install a birch plywood feed table.

   

8. Attach steel plates on top.

   

9. The machine is ready.

Conclusion

It is best to make a planing machine multifunctional so that you can not only plane workpieces, but also cut them, drill, chisel, and also polish them. The main element - the main shaft - should be ordered by a professional turner. The electric motor power should be approximately 3 kW at 1500 rpm, and for more high-quality processing parts, pulleys of different diameters should be installed on the engine and rotor.

The frame of the machine must be massive and reliable, for which use channel No. 5 with a wall thickness of 8-10 mm, although it can be wood. All rotating elements must be covered with a casing. The video in this article will give you the opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.

Planing and sawing are essential stages of wood processing. They are carried out using special equipment. In the recent past, combined machines performing both operations were common in manufacturing. But with increasing productivity, such devices no longer meet market requirements. Therefore, circular mechanisms with a jointer are used mainly by small handicraft workshops and amateurs.

Purpose

The machine combines the capabilities of a circular saw and a jointer. The circular saw is used for sawing large volumes of timber, boards, laminate, plywood, drywall, and soft alloy products. Sawing is carried out quickly, accurately and precisely to size, which cannot be achieved using hand tools.

The jointer is designed to remove the top, rough layer of material and make the workpiece smooth. Only wood is processed. There are double-sided models that simultaneously process two planes. The operations performed on circular and jointing machines are carried out one after another, so it is logical to combine them into a single device.

Design

A circular saw is a table-frame on which a vertical saw wheel, a guide, and hinges for sawing at an angle are placed.

The base of the jointer is also a table-frame into which the knife shaft is flush built. The table is made of two parts, the position of which is adjusted relative to the knife shaft. The engine of both devices is located below, under the table top.

A combined machine is a tabletop on which a saw blade and a knife shaft are installed. Both mechanisms operate from a single engine, the movement is transmitted by a belt drive. On such models, jointing can only be done on one side.

Advantages and Disadvantages

The main advantages of combining a jointer into one device with a circular saw:

• versatility: one device provides ample opportunities processing of workpieces;
• compactness: individual mechanisms take up quite a lot of space, but here double space savings are achieved while maintaining functionality;
• material benefit: one device is cheaper than two;
• Convenience and ease of use: it can easily be converted from a jointer to a circular saw and back. Factory models are equipped with convenient fastenings for parts, protective boxes that protect the worker from injury, as well as chip ejectors.
• productivity: high productivity is more needed in mini-workshops than in households. If you purchase a machine with a power of 2.5 - 3 kilowatts, it will cope with any tasks in the shortest possible time and is suitable for a small workshop. A home workshop does not require bulky and power-hungry equipment - 1 kilowatt of power is enough;
• a large selection of models: the range on the market from tabletop to units with several 12-kilowatt motors operating from a three-phase network;
• neatness: factory models are equipped with a system for collecting sawdust using a special vacuum cleaner.

Disadvantages of combined machines:

• only electric motor: if the motor burns out while sawing, the work will stop. Therefore, you should not overload the station wagon;
• danger of injury: working on any machine is dangerous, but combination devices are often insufficiently equipped with protective devices covering one or another working part.

Despite many advantages, large industries use only specialized equipment. In flow conditions, it is more efficient to work on the principle of one operation - one machine - one worker. Therefore, combined models belong to the category of amateur equipment.

Homemade jointing machine with a circular saw

To optimize the design homemade machines They are equipped with one working shaft, from which the drive goes to the saw and the knife shaft. This makes it easier to place all the necessary mechanisms.

The support frame can be welded from a corner or a base from a foot-operated sewing machine can be adapted. In this case, the width of the joint will be equal to the width of the tabletop. The additions to the frame are welded from the channel (cross members, drawer frames).

It is advisable to use a 3-blade rotor. This is a very important part that it is advisable to order from a professional. Double-sided knives and a sawing circle are put on it. It is better to immediately take discs with carbide teeth. A disc with a diameter of 30 cm is suitable, which makes a cutting depth of up to 8 cm. The jointer removes up to 2 millimeters of wood at a time in a layer up to 26 cm wide.

The machine is additionally equipped with a slide - a movable mechanism that moves along the edge of the tabletop of the circular saw and helps to process the edges of beveled workpieces.

The knife shaft is installed in the middle of the tabletop on bearings attached with bolts. The drive goes to the shaft from the left. The shaft neck with a diameter of 32 millimeters is located along right hand from the workplace.

Can be installed on the shaft journal grinding wheel, milling cutter or circular disk. In this case, the tool is attached to the shaft with a nut with a right-hand thread! This is an important detail!

The tabletop is made up of three parts. Material: 5 mm steel sheet. Two parts of the same size are adjacent to the knife shaft: the receiving and output tables. You can additionally think about a mechanism for adjusting their position relative to the shaft, for example, using screws or spacers.

The tabletop level of the circular saw is set mechanically. There is also a device for setting the angle; it is made on the basis of an analogue for a hacksaw. If necessary, it can be removed from the tabletop; it is secured with brackets to the edges of the tabletop on the circular side.

Here a guide ruler made of metal corner No. 5. The width of the part corresponds to the gap between the circle of the circular and the guide. Thanks to the ruler, there is no need to mark the cutting line along the entire length of the workpiece.

A double-ribbed V-belt transmission goes from the electric motor to the rotor. It is recommended not to skimp on the engine and take a more powerful one 3 kilowatts, 1.5 thousand revolutions, three-phase. It is hung under the frame on a hinged subframe. Due to the transmission, the rotor rotation frequency can be increased. The diameter of the drive pulley is 1.5 times larger than the diameter of the working shaft. Therefore, the working bodies rotate at speeds of up to 2.25 thousand revolutions. Electricity is supplied to the grounded motor via a four-wire wire. If there is an overload or short circuit, the machine immediately stops powering.

Machines assembled according to the proposed scheme have been operating successfully for several years. To extend their service life, they should be thoroughly cleaned of chips and dust after each use, and the power supply should be turned off. Periodically lubricate bearings, replace or sharpen saw blades in a timely manner. Drive belts and electrical wiring may also be damaged.

It is necessary to ensure a free approach from all sides, bright lighting. All non-working elements are covered with protective covers to avoid injury.

Homemade circular jointer and useful tips for working in videos:

First I'll tell you about my hobby. I love tinkering: creating with my own hands things needed in the house that increase comfort and decorate the home. I especially like working with wood - carpentry, carpentry. The desire to have at your disposal an “assistant” that speeds up work and improves its quality was the main motive for the creation of the presented combined machine for producing carpentry blanks, or, one might say, a woodworking mini-complex.

My practical, albeit small, experience of working on industrial machines, both woodworking and metal-cutting, turned out to be very useful in the design and manufacture of this mini-complex. Now, with its help, you can perform a wide variety of processing: sawing (both in the longitudinal and transverse direction of the fibers); planing; grinding and polishing, turning and drilling (and you never know what else - it’s difficult to list everything) of wood products, and some operations even of metal.

The mini-complex consists of two, in general, independent machines (except that the first serves as a base or support for the second). The first is a circular saw with an electric jointer. The second is a turning and drilling machine.

Today we’ll talk about the first one. Let’s look at its structure in more detail. But first of all, I’ll note that it was designed, so to speak, according to the aggregate diagram (jointer knives and circular saw have a common drive and are mounted on one working shaft - the rotor). This solution allowed me to make the design simpler and more technologically advanced, which undoubtedly affected the rational placement of the main components and assemblies. This machine contains components both industrially manufactured and those ordered for professionals and, of course, made with my own hands. There are even unusual details, for example, support part machine - frame, nothing more than “legs” from the old sewing machine. And it successfully fit into the overall design with virtually no alterations, or rather, the width of the plane table was adjusted to its appropriate size. The main parts of the frame (drawbars, cross members, spacer supports) were made from channel No. 5. Both structures: frame and bed are welded.

A three-knife rotor mounted on the machine with double-sided (double-edged) jointer knives, saw blades with carbide tipped, various kinds of devices make it possible to produce lumber products high quality. In the jointing (planing) mode, the width of the processed surface is 260 mm, and the cutting depth is up to 2 mm.

Jointer and circular saw drive

Tables (receiver and outlet), jointer and control panel (in the foreground)

Woodworking machine-jointer and "circular" (click to enlarge): 1 - frame (from a foot sewing machine, stamped steel channel 50x50x50, 4 pcs.; 2 - hinged under-motor platform; 3 - additional frame stand for attaching the lifting table "circular" "(corner 50x50, 2 pcs.; 4 - tray (duralumin sheet s1.5); 5 - longitudinal drawer (rolled channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 6 - under-table spacer support (rolled channel No. 5, 4 pcs.; 7 - circular saw (Ø300x32); 8 - control panel; 9 - subframe of the circular table (angle No. 5); 10 - circular table lifting mechanism (jack); .; 12 - jointer; 13 - driven pulley; 14 - V-belt (2 pcs.; 15 - drive pulley of the V-belt drive; 16 - electric motor (N=3 kW, n=1500 rpm, U=380 V); 17 - cross connection (steel profile, 4 pcs.; 18 - jointer outgoing table; 19 - plane receiving table; 20 - lifting table"circulars"; 21 - guide for the trimming device (pipe Ø17); 22 - bearing housing of the working shaft (2 pcs.

The rotor (or working shaft) is the most important, complex and critical part of the machine. In addition, it is common to the jointer and circular saw. I made it (or rather ordered it to a turner, and then to a milling machine) according to the drawings published in the article “Small, but universal” by V. Avtukh from the Belarusian city of Grodno in the magazine “Model Designer” No. 11 for 2003. But since this part is very important, and the publication was quite a long time ago, I will give the drawing of the rotor again, especially since I made my own changes to it: for example, I lengthened the knives, and, accordingly, the rotor, the seats (trunnions) for other bearings, etc. d.

In the same issue of the magazine, I also “spotted” the mechanism for lifting the “circular” table - by adjusting its height on the machine, replacing the circular saw with a suitable cutter (or with the same saw in one or several passes), you can select grooves, “quarters” and folds various sizes.

The saw blade has a diameter of 300 mm and allows for a maximum cutting height (or groove depth) of up to 80 mm in one pass. A device mounted on the edge of the circular saw table helps cut the edges of the board at different angles. This sliding mechanism (I'll call it a slide) is very convenient when processing the end edges of a board.

The reliability of this machine was tested in the process of creating another machine - a lathe. Working on its frame, for three hours in a row I cut longitudinal guide oblong holes (grooves) on the upper flanges of its channels using cutting wheels installed in place of the saw blade, and then polished them.

Jointer table: 1 - longitudinal frame element (angle 45x45, 2 pcs.; 2 - rear frame element (angle 45x45); 3 - front frame element (angle 45x45); 4 - table top (steel sheet s5)

Frame of the engine platform: 1 - longitudinal strapping element (stamped steel channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 2 - transverse strapping element (stamped steel channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 3 - frame suspension eye (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 4 - frame cross brace; 5 - cross brace eye (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 6 - frame suspension axis (steel, circle 20); 7 - cotter pin

Rotor of the jointer and circular saw (click to enlarge): 1 - M8 screw with spring washer; 2 - pressure washer O35x25 (steel, sheet s4); 3 - driven double-groove pulley; 4 - bearing housing cover (2 pcs.; 5 - bearing 18037 (2 pcs.; 6 - bearing housing (2 pcs.; 7 - rotor (steel 45); 8 - thrust washer; 9 - saw blade; 10 pressure washer; 11 - M20 nut; 12-knife clamping bar (3 pcs.; 13-jointer blade, 3 pcs.; 14 - spacer (M6 screw, 12 pcs.

Lifting table of a circular saw with a mechanism for trimming workpieces

In the middle of the frame (half the length) there is a working shaft, the bearing units of which are secured to it using M20x1.5 bolts 70 mm long. The shaft drive is carried out on the left side. If you look from the side of the working place, then the left part is the knife part of the planing head. On the right side there is a shaft journal with a diameter of 32 mm. Depending on the operation being performed, it can be equipped with: a circular saw, a milling cutter, an emery wheel, a grinding wheel or a cutting wheel. Important! The nut securing the tool to the shaft has a right-hand thread. The working surface of the machine is formed from three steel plates (tables). Two plates are located on either side of the planing rotor (shaft). The first is the receiving table, located closer to the carpenter, the second table is the outgoing table. Both tables have the same dimensions. The outfeed table does not have a special mechanism for adjusting the height relative to the cutting tool, and this operation is carried out as necessary using steel spacers.

The table surfaces are made of 5 mm thick steel sheet in the form of inverted trays (or troughs), installed in frames of 45x45 angles and welded to them.

The circular saw table, on the other hand, can be easily adjusted in height relative to the saw blade during operation using the built-in lifting mechanism. On the right side of the “circular” table, on the longitudinal guide, there is a mechanism that has an angle setting scale, with the help of which you can trim the ends of the boards, not only at a right angle, but also at any other angle. This mechanism is based on the corresponding device for a hand saw.

I note that the described device can be easily removed: removed or lowered. The longitudinal guide is made of steel pipe with a diameter of 17 mm, it is fastened using brackets-ears on the edges of the circular saw table.

On the same side of the same table, using clamping bars with M10 bolts, a guide bar made of rolled steel angle 50x50 mm is attached to the table. The distance between the saw blade and the bar determines the width of the workpiece to be cut. And the bar itself helps to maintain the specified width along the entire length of the workpiece without marking the latter.

Mechanism for lifting the circular table and attaching the guide bar to the table (click to enlarge): 1 - frame, 2 - frame thrust cross member (angle 50x50); 3 - jack (screw M20x2); 4 - thrust cross member of the lifting table (angle 45x45); 5 - lifting table stopper (special screw M12x1,5,2 pcs.; 6 - circular saw; 7 - guide bar; 8 - drawer (angle 40x40, 4 pcs.; 9 - lifting table stand (angle 40x40, 2 pcs.; 10 - strut (angle 40x40, 2 pcs.; 11 - tabletop; 12 - additional frame support; 13 - pressure block (steel, 2 pcs.; 14 - half-pin retainer with M10 nut (2 sets; 15 - special M10 screw, 2 pcs

Mechanism for trimming workpieces (parts pos. 3,4,6 are used from the device for hand hacksaw) (click to enlarge): 1 - base (board s15); 2 - stop (board s18); 3 - stand (steel); 4 - plate with scale (steel); 5 - fastening the plate to the base (M8 bolt, 2 pcs.; 6 - stopper (special M8 nut with knurling); 7 - fastening the bushings to the base (M8 nut, 2 pcs.; 8 - circular lifting table; 9 - bracket fastening the guide to the table (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 10 - guide rod (pipe Ø17); 11 - backing plate (steel, sheet s5); 12 - bushing (steel, 2 pcs.; 13 - fastening the guide rod (screw M12, 2 pcs.

The drive of the rotor - the working (tool) shaft - is carried out by a two-ribbed V-belt drive (although in practice I use only one belt) from a three-phase (380 V) electric motor with a power of 3 kW with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm. The engine is located at the very bottom inside the frame and is hinged on a cantilever-hung subframe, which made it possible to solve the problem of belt tension without an additional roller. To ensure high-quality processing of the material, the rotation speed of the working shaft was increased due to an accelerating V-belt drive. In the drive, the diameter of the motor pulley is one and a half times larger than the diameter of the working shaft pulley, therefore, the knife rotor and circular saw rotate with angular velocity about 2250 rpm. The electric motor is powered through a four-wire cable, the electrical wiring meets all safety standards, and the frame is grounded. In the event of a short circuit or overload, the starter can almost instantly turn off the power supply automatic mode. After operation, the machine should be de-energized and cleaned of sawdust and dust.

The machine has been in operation for six years. I'll see you off routine maintenance: I inject the bearing units, check the serviceability of the jointer knives, the condition of the saw blade teeth, inspect the V-belts and power cables of the machine.

It would not be amiss to remind you that the machine is a high-risk mechanism. Rotating parts and not in use cutting tools must be covered with fixed covers. Operating the machine requires extreme concentration and compliance with safety regulations. Don't rush, don't force yourself to speed up the process, work for your own pleasure. The carpenter's workplace should be well lit, the space around the machine should be sufficiently free, and the floor covering should not be slippery.