Experience with titebond veneer glue. Wood glue Titebond ii
High quality glue Titebond Cold Press for Veneer– an economic alternative to contact adhesive. It is designed for large scale bonding of veneer to flat surfaces. The adhesive is specially designed for gluing veneer to solid wood in a cold press, chipboard, MDF, plywood and others porous materials. This is a moderate curing adhesive with a clear adhesive line. The adhesive does not contain any harmful or aggressive fumes inherent in most contact adhesives. The adhesive prevents bleed through wood veneers that have large pores and do not have a backing.
Advantages of Titebond Cold Press for Veneer adhesive:
- Economical alternative to contact adhesive;
- Minimizes seepage through veneer;
- Moderate curing speed;
- No harmful secretions;
- Safe, non-flammable.
Packing:
Art. 5176 – 3.8 l
Physical properties
- Estimated level of harmful volatile components: 2.0 g/l
- Condition: Liquid
- Specific gravity: 1.10 kg/l
- Color: Tan
- Minimum temperature: 10°С (for glue, air and glued materials)
- Dry film: dark brown
- Dry residue: 42%
- Stability in freeze/thaw cycles: Stable
- Viscosity 4500 cps pH: 4.9
Bond strength ASTM D 905 (on hard maple)
Application options
Directions for use
Application temperature: above 10°С
Working open time: 15 minutes (21°C/50% relative humidity)
General working hours: 15-20 minutes (21°C/50% relative humidity)
Minimum consumption: about 160 g/m2
Press pressure: 7 – 17.5 kg/m2 depending on material
Application method: For a more reliable coating, mechanical adhesive is recommended
Cleaning: Soft cloth while the glue is fresh. Dried glue is removed mechanically and by cleaning.
Titebond Cold Press for Veneer adhesive is specifically designed for bonding veneer and is not suitable for other types of assembly. It is not recommended for outdoor use or where moisture is expected. The adhesive cannot be used when the temperature of the adhesive, the materials being bonded, and environment below 10°C. Freezing does not affect the quality of the glue, but may cause it to thicken. Stirring returns the product to its original state. Read the safety data sheet before use. Note: Before use, stir the product until it is homogeneous. Do not let the glue freeze.
Carefully: Irritating to eyes and skin. Contains oxydipropyl dibenzoate. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes or skin. First aid: If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, consult a doctor. If contact with eyes occurs, rinse with water for 15 minutes. Wash affected areas of skin with soap and water. If eye or skin irritation continues, consult a doctor. For more information, please refer to the safety data sheet. Keep away from children!
Best before date. 12 months in original packaging at 22°C
Professional tolei Titebond Cold Press Veneer carpentry 3.8 l M00008095
Application:
High quality Titebond Cold Press for Veneer adhesive is an economical alternative to contact adhesive.
It is designed for large scale bonding of veneer to flat surfaces.
The adhesive is specially formulated for cold-press gluing veneer to solid wood, particle board, MDF, plywood and other porous materials.
This is a moderate curing adhesive with a clear adhesive line.
Interior decoration and repairs
Gluing wood at home
Industrial wood gluing (D2 - D4)
Production of joinery and construction products for interiors
Furniture production
Advantages:
Economical alternative to contact adhesive;
Minimizes seepage through veneer;
Moderate curing speed;
No harmful secretions;
Safe, non-flammable.
Description :
The adhesive does not contain any harmful or aggressive fumes inherent in most contact adhesives.
The adhesive prevents bleed through wood veneers that have large pores and do not have a backing.
Titebond Cold Press for Veneer adhesive is specifically designed for bonding veneer and is not suitable for other types of assembly.
It is not recommended for outdoor use or where moisture is expected.
The adhesive cannot be used when the temperatures of the adhesive, the materials being bonded, and the environment are below 10°C.
Freezing does not affect the quality of the glue, but may cause it to thicken.
Stirring returns the product to its original state.
Read the safety data sheet before use.
Note: Before use, stir the product until it is homogeneous. Do not let the glue freeze.
Physical properties:
Estimated level of harmful volatile components: 2.0 g/l
Condition: Liquid
Specific gravity: 1.10 kg/l
Color: Tan
Minimum temperature: 10°C (for glue, air and glued materials)
Dry film: dark brown
Dry residue: 42%
Stability in freeze/thaw cycles: Stable
Viscosity 4500 mPa*s
pH: 4.9
Directions for use:
Application temperature: above 10°C
Working open time: 15 minutes (21°C/50% relative humidity)
Total working time: 15-20 minutes (21°C/50% RH)
Minimum consumption: about 160 g/m2
Press pressure: 7 - 17.5 kg/m2 depending on the material
Method of application: for a more reliable coating, mechanical adhesive is recommended
Cleaning: With a soft cloth while the adhesive is fresh. Dried glue is removed mechanically and by cleaning.
Caution: Irritating to eyes and skin. Contains oxydipropyl dibenzoate. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes or skin. First aid: If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, consult a doctor. If contact with eyes occurs, rinse with water for 15 minutes. Wash affected areas of skin with soap and water. If eye or skin irritation continues, consult a doctor. For more information, please refer to the safety data sheet. Keep away from children!
Best before date. 12 months in original packaging at 22°C
Franklin International (USA) has been a recognized world leader in the development and production of adhesives and sealants for 70 years. Franklin International has achieved a strong position in the market and professional recognition due to the quality of its glue, continuous operation with clients and flexible pricing policy.
Recommendation "Arsenal Master"
:
We recommend for purchase, we will deliver throughout Russia.
View the catalog with prices
Titebond® II Premium Wood Glue.
[ Click on photo
to enlarge ]
The American company Franklin International has been supplying the world market with a line of wood adhesives for more than 70 years. Constant research activities and the introduction of the latest technologies allow us to produce high-quality professional carpentry, restoration, parquet and other adhesives. The company now produces more than 25 types of wood adhesives for industrial applications under the Titebond brand.
The most common on Russian market are universal one-component moisture resistant adhesives For Titebond wood ii in blue packaging and moisture resistant transparent with black labels.
Technologies
Parquet adhesive - how to choose
Despite appearing on modern market new floor finishing materials, parquet is still not losing its popularity. It’s so nice to walk on the floor and feel natural natural wood
Universal second adhesives - review
Secondary adhesives are one-component cyanoacrylates. They are characterized by a short setting time, excellent heat and cold resistance
Carpenter's glue for wood. Description and Application
Bone or hide wood glue is sold in the form of granules. It may also have the appearance of grains or scales, this does not have special significance for quality wood glue
Directions for use
Titebond Cold Press for Veneer adhesive is specifically designed for bonding veneer and is not suitable for other types of assembly. It is not recommended for outdoor use or where moisture is expected. The adhesive cannot be used when the temperatures of the adhesive, the materials being bonded, and the environment are below 10°C. Freezing does not affect the quality of the glue, but may cause it to thicken. Stirring returns the product to its original state. Read the safety data sheet before use. Note: Before use, stir the product until it is homogeneous. Do not let the glue freeze.
Caution: Irritating to eyes and skin. Contains oxydipropyl dibenzoate. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes or skin. First aid: If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, consult a doctor. If contact with eyes occurs, rinse with water for 15 minutes. Wash affected areas of skin with soap and water. If eye or skin irritation continues, consult a doctor. For more information, please refer to the safety data sheet. Keep away from children!
Best before date. 12 months in original packaging at 22°C
I will probably describe the entire finishing technology.
The box itself needs to be sanded well. Good means not smooth, but even. After finishing in the incident light any, even the most insignificant irregularities are visible. All cavities, screws, seams must be carefully puttied and sanded. As a putty, I use epoxy glue (necessarily produced in Dzerzhinsk) with the addition of wood dust from sanding, which produces a durable, water-resistant substance, which nevertheless has good adhesion (adhesion) to PVA glue. I would like to emphasize once again that the quality of the finished surface largely depends on the preliminary grinding stage.
I sand with an eccentric cylindrical grinder using sandpapers, first 80, then 120. I collect the dust in a jar for future generations (see preparing putty).
Gluing veneer. A responsible operation, it’s a good idea to start by practicing on cats. I cut it out. wallpaper knife workpieces with an allowance of about 20 mm. I keep an eye on the grain of the wood so that the texture of the two columns is not very different. I start veneering with the side panels, then the top and bottom (the bottom, of course, is optional), the front last.
I actually glue the veneer using PVA. Preferably imported. I dilute it a little, just a little, with water. I coat the veneer (with a thin layer), then the wall of the box with a thicker layer. Now important point- you need to wait until the glue dries - it loses its whitish color. Don’t be afraid to overdry, the main thing is not to underdry. I lay the veneer on the wall and iron it long and hard with a not very hot iron. The temperature must be determined experimentally. On the scoop iron, I set the thermostat to position 2. The main thing is that the glue should not boil. Special attention gluing veneer near the edges of the panel - there are the greatest loads during operation.
Typically, the process of pasting a panel measuring 1200x350x300 takes about 40 minutes. Immediately after this, carefully cut off the allowances and sand what could not be cut.
After veneering, you need to let the object rest for about a day - the stress in the adhesive seam will be relieved, in general, everything will settle down.
Grinding again. Now it’s not only smooth, but also smooth. First, lightly and carefully with sandpaper 80. Then 120, 180, 240. Then the surface is slightly moistened with water, dried and sanded with sandpaper 320. Yes, I forgot, if the veneer is cracked in some places, you need to fill the cracks. After sanding the surface one more time better with your hands don't scratch.
Primer. 2 ways - fast and “correct”. Quick - with diluted nitro varnish type NTs. Cheap and cheerful. But it stinks. "Correct" - epoxy glue, which is rubbed into the veneer with a cloth swab. Perhaps, after the “correct” primer, you won’t want a piano finish; the surface will turn out very good.
After priming, you need to remove all the dust that has stuck to the varnish. I do this using the looping method. I use the blade of a wallpaper knife as a scraper.
Can be varnished. Alkyd and polyurethane varnishes. And also appeared in lately water-polymer varnishes. These are the ones I use, from Backs, Sweden. No odor at all, drying time 2 hours. From alkyd good varnishes at Tikkurila, series Unika-super. The varnish is applied in a thin layer. Each layer does not dry completely, alkyd - about 5 hours, water - 1 hour, then the next layer. Depending on the quality of the veneer, you may need from 5 to 9 such layers. The last layer is dried longer so that it does not get scratched from turning the column from side to side. Varnished surface Place only on a clean, soft cloth.
After all surfaces are varnished, it is left for 2...3 days to allow the varnish to harden.
Can be sanded. We start with 400 skin. Be sure to use water, otherwise the skin will clog after 6 microseconds. We increase the number of the sandpaper to 600, then 1000, 1200. The sanded surface should be perfectly smooth, without areas of unsanded varnish or scratches.
Polishing. I used Anti-Scratch paste for cars, but you can also use other car cosmetics without wax. This stage is the least labor-intensive if everything is prepared well. I cut out a felt circle, glued a circle from a sander to it, you mold this design to the sander, turn the speed to maximum, the result is a mirror.
WARNING. The technology is not for the faint of heart. It can take 2 weeks to finish one column (if done only in the evenings). But the result, IMHO, is worth it.
Ehhh, I love working with wood. Much more than writing about it
Can I add my two cents :)?
I also used ironing technology. I puttyed it with epoxy and wood dust, applied and dried PVA in the same way as described in post 6.
Since I did this almost for the first time, I almost screwed it up. The fact is that when gluing small pieces of veneer (such as finishing the ends of shelves), the expansion of the veneer when overheated is not so noticeable. But large pieces behave completely differently. Since the PVA, although dried to a transparent state before gluing, still remains slightly damp, when overheated, the veneer begins to swell from this moisture, warp and peel off from the heavily melted glue. I almost got burned by this. First I tried it on small pieces of veneer - it was just amazing. But when I moved on to pasting the column, it didn’t work out that way. Ultimately, I found the next optimal mode. I used a 1400 watt Moulinex iron. The temperature regulator set no more than one point, even less, in general the iron did not hiss when I tried it. With an iron of a different power, you need to select a different mode (that’s why I gave the power of the iron). First, I ironed the veneer in the middle of the column wall, along the fibers, and then, gradually from the middle, I ironed it to the edges in both directions.
That's my two cents, actually. And this veneer is good: if you make smooth chamfers on the front panel, then you can smooth it along the grain with a radius of curvature of approximately 1 centimeter. I myself made straight bevels, since I did everything by hand without machines in the kitchen - a jigsaw, a plane, a file, sandpaper, eyes and patience (I will not repeat this feat again). But then I tried it on a round stick - everything worked out.
Well, the joint is still visible there, but from a very short distance. And invisibility can be achieved only by selecting veneer. For example, the top and front panels are plywooded with one piece of veneer, so that the texture matches almost completely, and the illusion of “one piece of wood” is created. Well, plus sanding, of course. However, not everyone likes this; some prefer to cover the sides and front with veneer of different species. It's also beautiful.
Black tape. Is this PVC electrical tape in Russian?
Yeah!
I glued veneer in quite large quantities, albeit on the door. The technology is a little cheaper - the veneer is not placed in a joint, but in a small overlap (3-7 mm). It is advisable to combine each sheet of veneer according to the longitudinal pattern of the tree - it will be more beautiful. After drying the PVA, 2 sheets are laid out. Iron from the middle to the edges. The veneer should not rustle in well-glued places when you run your finger over it. The joint is ironed so that the top sheet breaks and sticks with the edge on top. Next, the protruding joints are removed with an emery wheel.
PVA should have the consistency of thick kefir and, when dry, form an elastic film without crystalline or chalky inclusions.
After all, there will be an overlap and the end will be visible. "
First, the side panels are veneered, then the front, then the top and bottom.
Visually, the front one will hide the ends of the side ones.
Also the top - the tops of the side ones.
When sanding, 0.5 -0.6 mm veneer sheets will completely merge with the perpendicular ones.
Veneer is used for cladding valuable species wood, as well as decorative film “like wood” with or without a self-adhesive base. To cover the doors with veneer, they need to be prepared - thoroughly cleaned emery cloth. Then they select a piece of veneer that is the right size and pattern, after which they apply it to the surface of the door and veneer. thin layer glue (wood glue, casein or PVA). After applying the glue, a piece of veneer is pressed tightly over the entire surface to be glued to the door and left in this form until the glue dries completely. Excess veneer protruding beyond the edges of the door surface is cut off sharp knife, and the cut area is cleaned with fine sandpaper. To more clearly reveal the wood pattern on the veneer, the surface veneered in this way should also be cleaned with fine abrasive sandpaper and varnished or wiped with a solution of natural wax in turpentine. After the coating has dried well, it needs to be sanded again and reapplied, and repeat this 3-4 times.
Well, yes, with an iron. The surface on which the veneer is glued is treated with PVA, dried, processed again, dried, applied veneer, and welded with an iron. BUT: the veneer should not be thick, no more than 1 mm, otherwise it will be difficult to warm it up.
And let Sergei tell you about the lapping hammer - I’ve never done it.
I recommend using Khomakol instead of PVA, the quality is much higher, although I have not seen it in containers smaller than 5 kg. If desired, it can be tinted. In Bumansa, although most of the veneers are edged, they also have to be either jointed or cut when making a shirt. At home, you can veneer a surface with high quality only using wood glue with a lapping hammer. I think it’s a little unreasonable to veneer such surfaces with an iron, the quality
A week ago I finished the veneer and varnish on my backhorns and I’ll share how it was. Since the veneer, as I understand it, is already glued, I’ll move on to the next stage. Applying Sanding Sealer (like drying oil) to the veneer. I’m writing directly from a can of Sanding Sealer.
Filling Sealing and Smoothing Sealer for wood products.) It is absorbed
into the veneer and makes the surface smooth. After drying for 1-2 hours, sand until the natural color of the veneer appears. The sealer raises the pile that you also sanded. Skin from 300-
400 numbers. Then a second layer of Sealer with the same sequence.
But if you like the color of the veneer under Siler, then sand without much pressure and the color will remain. The Siler layer is sanded off very easily. The surface after treatment is smooth and velvety.
Try all the steps on a separate veneer board first.
I used the varnish for yachts. I applied it with a brush. I painted it so that the light fell on the surface to be painted at an angle - stuck hairs and so on were visible. garbage. The hardened layer of varnish is sanded and the next one is applied.
2-3 layers. But alas, it’s very difficult to protect yourself from dust. Good luck to you
Felix
and no more varnish is required? Drying time is 4 hours (as written http://www.materialy.ru/base/ace/sanding_sealer.shtml) and during this time dust may stick.
Actually, I myself am inclined to http://www.vivacolor.ru/production/varnish/olympia/. or will there be any other suggestions?
Simple.K
I do this.
If I need gloss, I take shellac. I paint, polish, paint, polish, and so after 8-10 times the surface becomes like a Stradivarius violin.
If you just need a matte surface, I take oil from Ikea (linseed based), soak a cloth in it and rub the product 2-3 times and that’s it, no drips and the surface is protected, and it’s inexpensive.
On my oil it is written that drying time is 3 hours before subsequent coating, before using the item 24 hours, there are instructions in Russian on the can.
the oil is http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=62143
only the price tag there is kind of unreasonable, I took it
http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=62143
After the oil you don’t need to do anything, rub it with a cloth and that’s it, then after a year or two you wipe it again, etc.
oil makes the wood a little darker and clearly highlights the structure of the fibers. and the varnish probably won’t stick, the oil is FAT.
Yuri_Elizarov
I did it as follows - I didn’t glue the veneer, I just processed the birch plywood (it was originally sanded). treated with zip-guard materials (USA, polyester), first with 400 sandpaper, then with stain, dries, again with 400 sandpaper, remove the lint. Moreover, when the layer is removed, the structure of the fibers appears and darker places can be lightened (remove more or less). vacuumed and a layer of varnish, sandpaper 600 and so on 3 times. Everything is fine. looks great for birch, but ideally you need a different tree.
Rostislav