For many decades, the main type of natural fibrous raw material for the production of textile materials in Russia and Ukraine has been and remains to this day. cotton. Its consumption is 6-8 times higher than the total use of flax, hemp, wool and silk. In the former Soviet Union in the period 1960-1980. 75% of all fabrics were made from cotton, which was facilitated by the availability, low cost and well-established processing technology of this type of raw material 1 .

Since the early 1990s, the situation in the textile industry in Russia and Ukraine has changed dramatically. The severe crisis of the entire industry as a whole, the lack of working capital for enterprises and the opening of borders for the expansion of light industry goods, both from the East and the West, led to a decrease in the volume of production of the textile industry by 5-8 times 2 .

One of the reasons for the backwardness of the textile industry is also an outdated fleet of equipment that requires modernization, which was inherited by post-Soviet enterprises.

It is known that for the technical re-equipment of a medium-sized textile enterprise, several tens of millions of US dollars are needed. Such expenses are within the power of either the state budget or large financial and industrial groups (holdings) uniting 4-6 textile enterprises.

Cotton

Industrial holdings have now been created both in Ukraine and in Russia. They produce a fairly narrow range cotton fabrics: home textiles, workwear fabrics and technical materials. The cotton industry is the most representative in Ukraine. It accounts for 50% of all textile enterprises in the country - about 40 factories.

The total nominal capacity is 400 million m 2 of gray fabric (final finishing is still a weak link in the industry) and 100 thousand tons of yarn per year. As of 2006, Ukrainian CBCs operate at about 70% of their maximum capacity. Approximately the same situation is in the Russian cotton industry. Enterprises are in a state of fierce competition, covering with their products only a small segment (15-20%) of the range of fabrics required by the consumer market.

In this situation for right choice development strategy and to optimize the balance of fibrous materials used in the textile industry in both Russia and Ukraine, it is necessary to abandon the ingrained idea of ​​​​cotton as the main type of natural raw material for the production of fabrics 1 , 3 , 4 .

This is due to several objective reasons.

First, in the world balance of textile raw materials at the beginning of the 21st century, cotton makes up only 35%, and according to forecasts, its share will continue to decline; the remaining 65% of raw materials (and this is 39 million tons of fibers and threads) are artificial and synthetic fibers, as well as other natural fibrous materials (various types of wool, flax, hemp, natural silk and other fibers).

Secondly, cotton for Russia and Ukraine is now a 100% imported raw material, which is also used for defense purposes.

Third, over the past decades, the environmental performance of cotton grown in Central Asia(Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan), where a number of areas are recognized as zones of ecological disaster. 5 Raw materials grown using plant protection products banned in Europe may contain residual amounts of chlorine organic compounds, and therefore the possibility of negative impact, both for processors and consumers of final products. Already now, workers in a number of spinning mills processing Central Asian cotton have skin diseases (eczema and dermatitis) 4 .

Thus, the problem of ensuring the wide industrial use of other fibrous materials alternative to cotton, especially natural ones, becomes urgent.

Linen

Superiority in our latitudes certainly belongs to flax. This natural cellulose fiber has higher biomedical and physical-mechanical properties than cotton. Thanks to this unique complex properties of flax, such as hygiene, high strength, low electrical resistance and dust capacity, comfort, natural bactericidal (antiseptic and anti-rotten) demand for linen and flax-containing textile materials around the world is growing year by year.

The use of linen in human clothing has a long history. In ancient Greece, linen clothing was considered the privilege of the priests, in ancient Egypt it was available only to the aristocracy. The shroud, in which the body of Jesus Christ was wrapped, was made of linen fibers. In Russia, flax has been used since ancient times for linen and clothing, including festive ones. An interesting fact is that the first Russian standard, personally signed by Peter the Great, was the standard for flax.

German scientists have proved that in hot weather, a person wearing linen clothes has a skin temperature that is 3...4 o C lower than in clothes made from other natural fibers. The presence in the fabric of even a small amount of flax fiber (up to 10%) almost completely eliminates electrification and reduces the permeability of gamma radiation by 1.5-2 times.

Interest in flax is growing every year. According to the forecasts of leading French experts (based on medical and sociological studies), until 2010 specific gravity linen and linen-containing fabrics in the total output of textile materials in the world will increase to 70% 6 .

It should be noted that the successful promotion of linen fabrics to the domestic and foreign markets depends not only on their high physical, mechanical and hygienic properties. The ecological cleanliness of fabrics is also of great importance, which must be confirmed by environmental certification according to the international standards ECO-TEX-100, ISO-9000 and ISO-14000.

These standards regulate: the content of light organic carbohydrates in tissues (for example, formaldehyde); residual amount of heavy metals and toxic elements (lead, arsenic, cobalt, mercury, etc.); pesticides and herbicides used in flax cultivation; chlorinated organic compounds used in finishing; residual content of dyes and their decay products (for fabrics with printed design).

In terms of quality, Western European linen is recognized as the best in the world. The leaders in its production are France (85 thousand tons/year); Belgium, the Netherlands and Germany (18 thousand tons/year each).

Flax grown in Russia and Ukraine has a degree of woodiness of 40...60% versus 20% for Western European flax and is more rigid. In the textile industry of Russia and Ukraine, only 30% of flax is effectively used (long fiber), and 70% (short fiber) is mainly used for technical and packaging materials (burlap, tow, etc.). The existing technologies for processing long-staple flax into roving and yarn are very long-term and energy-intensive processes. As a result, pure linen and semi-linen fabrics produced, which are in great demand, especially in the West, are much more expensive than cotton ones.

The shortcomings of linen fabrics - increased wrinkling and shrinkage - are leveled by raw materials of other types of fibers and new types of final finishes (bio-enzymatic and nanotechnological).

Modern flax-containing raw compositions include: 7 linen-polyester (40+67) linen-polyamide (5+25) linen-viscose (30+60) linen-lyocell (45+55) linen-tencel (45+55) linen-cupra (45+55) linen- polyurethane fibers (2+6) linen-metallized fibers (30+45) linen-cotton (40+65) linen-wool (18+58) linen-hemp (25+73) linen-natural silk (12+40).

For the manufacture of modern fabrics, more complex fiber compositions are also used: linen-polyester-viscose-natural silk; linen-wool-polyamide; linen-cotton-tactel-polyester, etc. 8 .

In the last 10-15 years, equipment has been created (firms Truetzschler GmbH & Co HG, Temafa, Rietter Perfojet, Tverlegmashdetail, Cardatex, TsNIILKA) for the production of cottonin - a modified short flax fiber, similar in technological properties to cotton and suitable for co-spinning with cotton and wool. The most widely known mechanical, chemical and mechanochemical technologies of flax cottonization 9 .

Hemp textile

Along with cotton and linen, hemp is gaining more and more popularity. This environmentally friendly yellow-brown fiber, which is difficult to bleach, reacts to heat treatment and insolation in the same way as cotton, and its physical and mechanical properties are close to linen.
The best quality hemp textile fiber is produced in Italy. Despite the fact that Ukrainian scientists-breedersGlukhovsky Research Institute of Bast Crops have achieved significant success in breeding elite varieties of textile hemp, in Ukraine, at present, technologies for growing and processing this promising fiber are practically not being developed 10 .

Over the past five years, 12 new types of natural textile fibers of plant origin (from stems, leaves and even petals of plants) have been registered in the world. Among the exotic variants of natural fibers, which are increasingly used in fashionable fabrics, are the following types 11 .

Ramie (Chinese nettle)- 2 times stronger than flax, 5 times stronger than cotton. Natural color - white, well dyed, has bactericidal properties and natural silky sheen. In modern fabrics, this fiber is mixed with natural silk, mercerized cotton and viscose. 12 .

Sisal (agave, pita, sesame)- heavy-duty tensile and abrasion fiber with anti-rotten properties (cellulose content 70...72%). Previously used only for weaving mats, and now - in coats, raincoats, furniture and decorative fabrics and carpets. floor coverings. The new raw material composition is also interesting: sisal-cashmere-lurex 13 .

Pima is a type of cotton grown in Peru. Very fine, long-staple, superior in quality to Egyptian varieties, has a natural silky sheen, does not require mercerization.

Luobuma (luobuma) is a fiber with a 5000-year history, but only now it is being actively used in China in the industrial production of textile materials. This plant grows in the forests of China (Xinjiang Province). Main properties: high hygroscopicity, air and vapor permeability, bactericidal activity, protection against UV radiation, stimulation of blood circulation; luobuma fabric is well dyed, low shrinkage, transmits long infrared rays, which contribute to the restoration of human cells and the treatment of arthritis.

Pineapple and banana leaf fibers are also now being used industrially; fibers of kenaf, marsh cotton grass, burdock, broom, manila (abaca), jute (Calcutta hemp) and others 14 .

Wool

Among the natural fibers of animal origin, as before, protein fibers are in the lead: wool and silk.

From historical sources it is known that wool, as a textile raw material, has been serving mankind for over 12,000 years. These fibers have a number of valuable physical and mechanical properties: they have the best indicators of the hygienic complex and thermal protection among natural fibers, elasticity, strength, high technological properties (due to the natural crimp of the fibers and their ability to felting). Due to the unique structure of the surface scaly layer, they easily enter into strong adhesion with each other and are the only ones of all types of fibers that serve as a raw material base for creating felting non-woven materials - felt and felt. 15 .

In Ukraine, the wool processing industry unites 26 enterprises that produce coats, suits, dresses, shawls pure wool (w/w) and semi-woolen (w/w) fabrics; for the top and lining of shoes, blankets, blankets, scarves, carpets, black and white yarn.

In aggregate, the wool processing industry of Ukraine can produce annually: 40 thousand tons of yarn, 70 million m 2 of fabrics, 4 million m 2 of non-woven materials, 600 thousand pairs of felted shoes. However, now it also does not work at full capacity. The basis of consumed raw materials (85%) is imported fine and semi-fine wool. Domestic raw materials (wool of coarse-wooled and semi-coarse-wooled sheep) are used by only 15% 3 .

Wool, as a raw material, must be differentiated by species and even by animal breeds. As required International Federal Trade Commission(FTC) all wool products must have a special label with a decoding of the raw composition, which indicates information about the types of wool fibers included in the product and their percentage, as well as international symbols for how to care for this product 16 .

Despite the fact that the basis of the industrial raw material base is sheep wool (approximately 85%), it cannot be identified as a single raw material group, since today more than 140 types of sheep wool are used in the production of woolen materials, which differ in length and fineness of fibers, degree crimp and luster, spinning and dyeing ability, heat-shielding properties and ink. The most popular fine-fleeced and semi-fine-fleeced wool of merino breeds of sheep. Items made of extra-fine merino wool are marked Gold Woolmark and looks like natural silk 17 .

Among other types of wool: mohair cashmere angora camel, goat, sarlych (yak), dog, rabbit, hare and horse wool wool of humpless camels (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, guanacos), bison and other animals.

In the last 10 years, mink, muskrat, otter, marten, sable, chinchilla wool has been used as minor raw material additives (up to 12%). These fibers are obtained by plucking or shearing natural fur, if this is provided for by the design.

Mohair - This is the wool of the angora goat. The fineness of the fiber depends on the age of the animal: in young animals - 25 ... 33 microns, in adults - 33 ... 45 microns (For comparison: the fineness of a human hair is 48 ... 50 microns). The fiber has a special luster shine, smooth surface, soft touch. Average length - 75...100 mm. Main suppliers: USA, Turkey, China, and in recent times- Australia and New Zealand.

Cashmere - wool of Kashmiri mountain goats. The fibers have an exceptionally soft and delicate touch. The main parameters of down fibers: fineness - 11 ... 18 microns, length - 25 ... 80 mm. Main parameters of coarse fibers: fineness - 30...100 microns, length - 40...200 mm. The largest volume of this raw material is harvested in China and Mongolia.

Alpaca . Its fibers are divided into 3 groups depending on the fineness: Royal- 19 microns Baby- 22 microns standard- 26 microns .

Interestingly, in nature, there are 24 natural shades of alpaca - black, white, various shades of gray, brown, beige and brown-red. With such a wide palette of natural colors, these fibers do not require industrial dyeing and are increasingly used in the world for the production of environmentally friendly textiles.

Vicuna has the finest natural wool fibers in the world. Average fineness - 10...15 microns, length - 30...50 mm. Down fibers have a fineness of 6-8 microns. Vicuña wool is one of the most expensive raw materials in the world. The fibers have a delicate, plastic, flowing touch, silky sheen and are distinguished unique property- in finished materials they are not pilled at all.

Perino . Of the latest raw material innovations, the attention of textile workers was attracted by fiber Perino, presented by New Zealand at the exhibition Expofil-2005. This is a fiber from the tail of an opossum.
Its fineness is 15...18 microns. To the touch, this is a very soft fiber, similar to cashmere, it has a peculiar structure - it tapers towards one end and is hollow inside. As a result - high heat-shielding properties and very light weight. Today, these fibers are used in elite women's fabrics, adding 25 ... 40% to cashmere, angora, cotton, natural silk. 11 .

Special attention foreign and domestic researchers to the wool of rare species of animals is explained, first of all, by the high commercial demand for these types of raw materials. For example, in the Italian industry, the share of cashmere in the total volume of processed raw materials is steadily growing (annual growth over the past 5 years has been 12-15%). Mohair, especially produced in the state of Texas (USA) and in Turkey, is in steady demand among textile workers. Alpaca, llama and vicuña fibers were in short supply on the world market during 2001-2003. Peru is the only supplier of industrial batches of these fibers. 17 .

Company Woolmark in collaboration with International Wool Secretariat carries out certification of woolen and semi-woolen fabrics for a number of physical, mechanical, technological, environmental and operational indicators.
Currently labeled Woolmark is identified as an international mark of quality for woolen and semi-woolen fabrics. Fabrics are assigned the following types: Woolmark- 100% pure fresh wool from live animals (up to 7% synthetic fibers are allowed without notice to the consumer) Wool-blend-mark- content of fresh wool not less than 50% Wool-blend- content of fresh wool from 30 to 50% Top Wool- guarantee of ecological cleanliness of raw materials; wool does not contain alkaloid components, as the animals were kept in an environmentally friendly environment with a controlled diet. For products marked with this sign, additional cleaning of raw materials is carried out according to special technology Bioclean 14 .

For the purpose of marking ultra-thin woolen fabrics from worsted equal-density yarn, the company Woolmark introduced a notation system Super (S). Today there are fabrics marked: Super-100 and Super-200. This means that the material is obtained by using worsted yarn with a diameter of 18.5 µm and 13 µm, respectively. 17 .

Japan's largest wool and wool blend yarn company Nikke introduced a new technology that made it possible to change the round cross-section of the wool fiber. The technology does not impair the physical and mechanical properties of wool, but affects the microstructure of the fiber, as a result of which the materials acquire a special flowing sheen and high drape 11 .

Silk
Natural silk is a cocoon protein thread of organic origin. This raw material brings hygiene, comfort, drapeability, the highest aesthetic and optical properties to the fabric. Despite the centuries-old history of silk, modern researchers are discovering new properties of this unique raw material. Japanese scientists have proven that natural silk is an immunostimulating, anti-allergic and bactericidal raw material, which has a particularly beneficial effect on women's and children's bodies.

In modern textile production, natural silk is used for the manufacture of dresses, blouses, shirts, suits, coats, furniture, decorative and curtain fabrics, bed and underwear, hosiery, clothes for babies and materials special purpose(including medical).

The development of natural silk processing technologies is aimed at preserving its natural ecological purity, i.e. to create silk eco-textiles. Interestingly, in order to implement this promising technological direction, specialists often resort to old and even ancient methods of producing materials. eighteen

For example, a finish called tea silk, known in China since the 12th century. The fabric was buried in the ground with a high content of iron, which oxidized, giving it a dark red-brown color. Then the fabric was laid out in the sun on one side. The whole process took 4 or more months. The result was an elegant two-faced silk fabric with a dark waxy sheen of strongly brewed tea. Today, "tea silk" is proudly used in their collections by designers of world fashion houses. 11 .

Biostructuring of natural silk can certainly be attributed to new technologies. A new fiber called bio-steel, company registered Nexia, is a bio-silk of increased strength, light, elastic, hygienic, the cross section of which resembles a cross with 12 corners 14 .

The latest technologies that are already being used in the world to improve consumer properties, yields and production of natural fibers are genetic engineering, bioselection and even cloning of especially valuable types of woolen animal breeds.

NOTES

1 Zhivetin V.V., Sychev V.N. - Textile chemistry, 2002, No. 1 (17), pp. 4-14.

2 Aizenshtein E.M. Textile chemistry, 1997, No. 3 (12), pp. 20-27

3 companion.uk - 2005.

4 Moryganov A.P., Zakharov A.G., Zhivetin V.V. - Russian Chemical Journal, 2002, vol. XLVI, No. 1.

5 Guseva T.V., Mikhailidi D.Kh., Zaika E.A. - Sat. of abstracts of the scientific-practical conference "Science - to the linen complex", Vologda, M.: TsNIILKA, 2000, p.98-101.

6 Textile Report, 2005, No. 4, p.23-24.

7 Below are the percentages of flax + the second component in the flax-containing composition - approx. ed.

8 Contemporary Issues and textile trends” - “Textile plus”, 2005, pp.18-20.

9 Voronova M.I. and others - on Sat. Proceedings of the V International Conference "Theoretical and experimental foundations for the creation of new highly efficient technological processes and equipment”, Ivanovo, 2001, IChR RAS, p.428.

10 Hemp (cannabis sativa) is one of the oldest industrial crops, the first mention of which dates back to the 9th century BC. Unlike Indian hemp, which is widespread in the southern latitudes and contains narcotic ingredients, has been used since ancient times, in particular, to obtain twisted products (from female plants- materka), textile yarn (from male plants - scraped), cleaning and technical thermal insulation materials(from raw materials of lower quality and waste). It became widespread in Russia, especially with the beginning of the construction of a sailing fleet, and was one of the strategic items of Russian exports, including to England and the USA. Growth in hemp cultivation peaked worldwide (about 1 million hectares) in the 1920s, after which it began to decline under pressure from the growth of the cheap cotton fiber market. By 1931, 920 thousand hectares of hemp were sown in the USSR, by 1960 the crops were reduced to 450 thousand hectares.

Being high-yielding in conditions of temperate latitudes (fibers up to 2.9 t/ha) and even temperate northern latitudes (fibers up to 2 t/ha in Finland and Canada, according to All-Russian Institute of Plant Industry - VIR), hemp fiber has great strength under conditions high humidity and the highest abrasive resistance (it was not for nothing that the first jeans were made from it Levi's), very long (up to 300 cm), and in terms of elasticity and linear density (40 Nm) it is close to linen.

This whole complex of consumer properties, as well as the fact that agricultural technology for growing hemp does not require (unlike cotton) the use of powerful chemical protection of crops, has led to its "rebirth" in recent decades as a good raw material for eco-textiles. Suffice it to say that by 2002 in France, its crops occupied more than 30 thousand hectares (EU subsidies - 63 euros / ton of fiber), while in Russia only 3 thousand hectares (subsidies from the Government of the Russian Federation - about 54 euros / ton of fiber) .

The largest producer of hemp yarn in Europe is currently the Italian company Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale. A full chain project for the production of pure hemp sustainable fabrics (from growing raw materials in Kent to weaving and finishing in London) was implemented in 1995 in the UK by the company Bioregional Development Group. Significant activity in the revival of traditional culture is shown by German textile workers under the auspices of the national association for united development Hanfcom. In particular, the group of companies Hanfhaus currently produces environmentally friendly 100% bast products of a shirt and jeans assortment, and the company Flaxy- industrial production for the mechanical processing of fibers with a capacity of 4000 tons / year. LLC Assol , which sells goods through ethnic stores in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Samara, Ufa and outside the country (in Kyiv).

Actually, Russian projects in this area still do not reach the commercial level, remaining within the framework of scientific and technical developments and generalizations. So, Institute of Chemistry of Solutions RAS offers a highly environmentally friendly technology of mechanochemical cottonization of bast fiber, in which the fibers acquire crimp, plasticity, their bending and torsion stiffness is reduced, as well as optimal compositions of blends for yarn. Proposals on the organization of the complex development of the sub-sector remain unrealized - see Grigoriev S.V. Opportunities to expand the raw material base of the textile industry through the use of cannabis sativa bast fibers in European countries and Russia ( SPGUTD, VIR) - approx. ed.

11 International Textiles, 2004, No. 2 (7), pp. 5, 12-18.

12 Among the largest importers of this fiber, yarn and finished products from ramie and traditional blends (55% ramie + 45% cotton with polyester) are China, Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Brazil, the Philippines and Indonesia. Until recently, ramie was used mainly in textiles that used the strength properties of the fiber - twisted products, sails, linen, home textiles. The powerful development of ramie confections in recent years is due to the fact that quotas for textiles of other raw materials from the countries of Southeast Asia do not apply to it. In this case, high absorbency, good resistance to dry cleaning, comfort and environmental friendliness of fabrics made from this fiber come to the fore. Knitwear, casual and children's clothes made of ramie have introduced such brands as Mango and Westland - approx. ed.

13 Until recently, agave fiber (sisal) was used mainly for the production of technical textiles (carpets, book bindings, woven products, wallpaper, nets, washcloths and bath shoes, upholstery of furniture and sports equipment). Now its largest exporters - Brazil, Kenya, Tanzania and Madagascar (total export of 123 thousand tons / year), - focusing on the launch of industrial processing enterprises, can count on more wide application - approx. ed.

14 International Textiles, 2003, No. 4, pp. 4-5, 59-60.

15 Volynets T.A., Dregulias E.P., Shevchenko G.I. - Easy promislovist, 2005, No. 1, p.25.

16 See also Khramov Boris (regional representative of Woolmark in Russia) - in Art. The crisis of the wool complex in Russia. Problems and Solutions// Light industry market, No. 27, 2002 - approx. ed.

17 Razumeev K.E. Textile industry, 2004, No. 5, pp. 18-20.

18 See Fominova Oksana. Affordable luxury: myths and truth about natural silk, recommendations for sellers and artists// Light industry market, No. 44, 2005 - note ed.

Development and placement of light industry

Textile industry is the largest sub-sector of light industry in Russia.

In most countries of the world, the formation of the industrial mode of production, which replaced the agrarian mode, began with the development of certain branches of light industry (textiles, etc.). Primitive handicrafts and home-based work were first replaced by manufactories, and then by factories (enterprises of the capitalist type).

In the Russian Empire, the rapid development of the textile industry took place in the second half of the 19th century. In particular, on the territory of Central Russia, several dozen settlements enterprises for the production of cotton, linen and woolen fabrics were created. This was facilitated by the agrarian overpopulation of the central provinces of the country and the early emergence of handicrafts here. Cotton raw materials for the operation of factories were imported from the territory of Central Asia (the transport shoulder is almost 4,000 km), while linen and wool were mainly local. Thus, even at that time, the development of the textile industry was under the influence of several factors: consumer (proximity to the main sales markets, densely populated areas with significant solvent demand), raw materials and the factor of the availability of labor resources. By the end of the 19th century, over 90% of the production of fabrics in the country accounted for the share of Central Russia. The undisputed leader was the Ivanovo Industrial Region.

In the 20th century, the area of ​​fabric production in the country expanded: enterprises of the industry appeared in regions peripheral to Central Russia: the Volga, Urals, etc. This was partly facilitated by the involvement in the production of new types of raw materials - synthetic fibers and threads. A certain role in this was also played by the general policy of the shift of productive forces to the east. However, to beginning of XXI century, the economic regions of Central Russia accounted for more than 85% of the production of fabrics in Russia. Thus, the "center of gravity" of the industry has not changed, although the geography of textile production has become more dispersed.

The Ivanovo region is still the leader in the development of the industry (more than 50% of the production of fabrics in the country), especially cotton. Among other regions, production volumes stand out: Moscow and the Moscow Region (woolen fabrics), Vladimir Region (linen fabrics), Perm Territory and Saratov Region (silk fabrics). In terms of production volumes in 2008, Russia actually corresponded to the level of 1913 (Table 67).

Table 67

Production of fabrics by types in Russian Empire and Russia, million m 2

In 2011, compared with 2010, the production of fabrics decreased: silk - by 28%, cotton - by 20.3%, woolen - by 11.2%, linen - by 9.7%.

The city of Ivanovo is rightly called the "Russian Manchester", "textile capital" and "city of brides" (gender imbalance in the labor market). The decline in the production of fabrics in the city and the region led to the fact that the region came out on top in Central Russia in terms of unemployment (more than 30% of the economically active population). "Ivanovskaya funnel" is a classic example of a depressed region on the map of the country. In the development of the textile cluster of the region, three stages are clearly visible: growth - maturity - decline.

The main problem and one of the reasons for the decline of the Russian textile industry is the provision of cheap and high-quality raw materials. Cotton was, is and will be a long-distance raw material. The sowing and harvesting of flax (one of the most labor-intensive crops) in the regions of the Non-Black Earth region has declined catastrophically; insignificant crops of long-staple varieties. Woolen raw materials, as a rule, are of poor quality. In the development of the industry of synthetic fibers and threads, negative trends are also observed: the physical and moral wear and tear of equipment exceeds permissible values, and little modern fibers are produced. Note that the textile industry is only the initial link in the production chain. If the volume of output in the domestic clothing industry is reduced, then the demand for the textile industry is shrinking in the domestic market.

clothing industry Russia is represented by many thousands of enterprises, which are characterized by: a reduction in production and employment, work on tolling raw materials, high depreciation of production assets (up to 70%). Leading clusters of the Russian clothing industry: Moscow, South (Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories), Ivanovo and Chuvash.

Table 68

Performance indicators of the garment industry in Russia

In connection with Russia's accession to the WTO, the prospects for its light industry as a whole are rather negative. We can expect a further decline in production volumes, job cuts.) and the "folding" of the network of production centers.

The market for light industry goods in Russia is huge. As of mid-2008, it was estimated at $80 billion with an annual growth of 20%. The only problem is that domestic producers are gradually being forced out of the domestic market by bona fide foreign competitors and unscrupulous suppliers of contraband (up to 70% of the market) and counterfeit products. Thus, in the legal market of garments, the main importing players are China (40% of sales) and Turkey (15%).

- a branch of the economy, which includes enterprises for the manufacture of fabrics, clothing production, as well as the production of leather and products from it. These are the three main branches of light industry, which in turn are divided into smaller sub-sectors. The volume of shipped goods manufactured by light industry enterprises in Russia in 2014 amounted to 289.7 billion rubles. Of these, about 44% accounted for the garment industry.

Compared to 2013, there was a decline in production in all sectors of the light industry. The production index in the clothing industry and the textile industry for 2014 was 97.5, and in the production of leather, footwear and leather goods, this figure is 97.2. In terms of production indices, light industry sectors occupy 11th and 12th places out of 14 main types of manufacturing industries. In monetary terms, the volume of shipped products decreased by 2.1% compared to 2013, while the production of fabrics and clothing production remained at the level of 2013, and the decrease in shipments in the leather industry amounted to 11.8%.

In 2014, 1.7 billion rubles were allocated from the federal budget to support the light industry, and in 2015 the government plans to spend another 1.5 billion rubles on the development of the industry. But, despite these measures, the Russian light industry provides only about 25% of the domestic market, the rest 75% are exported. To date, the most developed lung industry has China. At the end of 2014, about 32% of all products of the world light industry were produced in China. Also, the world leaders in light industry include the countries of South Asia, such as Indonesia, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh. Countries Western Europe and the USA also have a developed light industry, but their main focus is the production of clothing and footwear of world famous brands from raw materials obtained from developing countries. The European leader in the production of light industry goods is Italy, where a large number of trading houses are concentrated, specializing in the production of clothing, footwear and leather goods.

The light industry of the Russian Federation employs almost 330 thousand people. At the same time, about 1/3 of employees work at small enterprises with less than 50 employees. In total, there are about 3.2 thousand small enterprises operating in light industry in Russia. At the end of 2014, their turnover amounted to 22.3% of the total production of the Russian light industry, which in monetary terms equals 64.44 billion rubles.

Wages in the industry remain one of the lowest in Russia. In 2014, the average salary of workers in the textile industry and clothing production was 14,468 rubles, and workers in the leather and footwear industry 16,053. Thus, wages by industry are lower than the average in Russia by 55% and 50%, respectively. The highest average salary for workers employed in leather production is 21,106 rubles, and the lowest for workers employed in fur production is 13,365 rubles.

One of the reasons for such low salaries in the industry is the high share of shadow business in production, as well as the sale of counterfeit products of foreign and domestic production. For example, the share of shadow footwear imports to Russia in 2014 amounted to 66.4% of all imported footwear. In footwear sales, shadow imports account for 57% of all products sold. About 35% of all footwear and clothing in Russia is sold in markets where trade is carried out individual entrepreneurs. Unfortunately, most of the products sold are either foreign counterfeit or products made in Russia in illegal workshops. All this largely hinders the development of light industry at the all-Russian level, although for some regions light industry enterprises are city-forming. Especially it concerns Ivanovo region RF, where the share of light industry in total production is 33%.

Textile industry

The textile industry is a branch of light industry, which is the basis of the light industry. Textile production is understood as the production of yarn, threads, fabrics based on fibers of plant, animal and artificial origin. The textile industry includes the following sub-sectors:

• Production of cotton fabrics;
• Production of woolen fabrics;
• Production of linen fabrics;
• Production of silk fabrics;
• Manufacture of fabrics from artificial fibers;
• Production of nonwoven materials.

The products of the textile industry serve as raw materials for other sectors of the light industry, and are also used in the manufacture of consumer goods, this primarily applies to non-woven materials.

Nonwovens are textile fabrics that are created without the use of weaving technology. That is, the threads do not intertwine with each other, but for their fastening they use gluing, needle punching, felting, knitting. These materials are further used to make shoes and outerwear, non-woven materials made using paper machines are used to make napkins, tablecloths and bed linen. The most widely used glued non-woven materials, they are used as the basis for polymer coatings, as well as container, cleaning, filtering and soundproofing materials.

The production of nonwovens in Russia in 2014 amounted to 2.461 billion square meters. meters. This represents just over 1% of world production. In total, about 201 billion square meters were produced in the world over the past year. m. of nonwovens, which in terms of approximately 7.9 million tons. The leaders in the production of these products are the EU countries, the USA and China.

If we consider the production of fabrics in Russia using weaving equipment, then the main part of the fabrics produced is cotton. In the structure of the world textile industry, cotton fabrics account for 67% of the total production, in Russia this figure is 82.7%. In total, in 2014, 1.187 billion square meters were produced in the Russian Federation. m. of cotton fabrics. This is 10% less than in 2013.

In general, 2014 was marked by a significant drop in the production of fabrics from natural raw materials. Thus, the decline in the production of woolen fabrics amounted to 11.2% and amounted to 11.5 million square meters. meters, and the production of linen fabrics fell by 16.8% to 31.4 million square meters. m. In the Ministry of Industry, this is explained by the lack of raw materials for the textile industry. But also do not forget that the cost of producing domestic textile products is higher than imported, which in turn affects production volumes. Thus, the production of woolen fabrics in the Russian Federation, compared with 2010, has almost halved.

The situation is slightly better with the production of fabrics from artificial fibers, as well as natural silk fabrics. The production of fabrics made from artificial fibers in 2014 decreased by only 1% and amounted to 207 million square meters. m. And the production of natural silk fabrics compared to 2013 increased by 21% to 192 thousand square meters. m.

clothing industry

On average in Russia, spending on non-food items is 37% of the total. At the same time, about 8% of the expenses of Russians fall on the share of clothing production. Physical clothing made of fabrics after an increase in output in 2013 by 5.8% in 2014 decreased by 0.4%. With regard to the shipment of goods of the clothing industry, in monetary terms, there is an increase of 5.8%. According to this indicator, growth has been taking place over the past three years. In 2014, the largest growth in clothing production was shown by the North-West federal district- 52.7%, in turn, a significant decrease in volumes was recorded in the Southern Federal District - 33.5%. According to the Federal Districts of Russia, the structure of garment production shipments is as follows:

• Central Federal District - 42.4 billion rubles. Share in total shipments – 33.1%
• Northwestern Federal District - 36.3 billion rubles. Share in shipments – 28.4%
• Privolzhsky Federal District - 18.9 billion rubles. Share in shipments – 14.8%
• Southern Federal District - 17.7 billion rubles. Share in shipments – 13.8%
• Siberian Federal District - 6.2 billion rubles. Share in shipments – 4.8%
• Ural Federal District - 3.9 billion rubles. Share in shipments - 3%
• North Caucasian Federal District - 1.9 billion rubles. Share in shipments 1.5%
• Far Eastern Federal District - 0.7 billion rubles. Share in shipments 0.5%

The financial situation in the garment industry is much better than in the textile industry. At the end of 2014, the garment enterprises accounted for an average of 17%, while in the textile industry this figure is 2.8%. But, despite good financial performance, the share of imports continues to grow in the industry. In 2014, due to restrictions on the supply of goods to the Russian Federation, legal clothing imports decreased by 5.5% and amounted to 7.74 billion US dollars. But at the same time, shadow imports increased. This confirms the fact that the volume of production in 2014 decreased by 0.4%, legal imports decreased by 5.5%, and sales at the same time, compared to 2013, increased by 2.5% (in this case, we mean total sales in the domestic market, and not only sales of goods of Russian manufacturers). Thus, it can be confidently asserted that shadow imports continue to grow, filling the market share of legal imports and goods from Russian manufacturers.

The largest importer of clothes to the Russian Federation is China. The share of imports of Chinese clothing made of fabrics is about 48% of total. Also in the top five are Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey and Italy.

The main directions in the clothing industry are the manufacture of coats and short coats, jackets, suits, dresses and sundresses, trousers and shorts, as well as tailoring of overalls.

In 2014, Russian light industry enterprises produced 1,239 thousand coats and short coats. This is the only type of clothing for which there was a decline in production. In 2013, the Russian light industry produced 1,335 thousand units, and in 2012 - 1,469 thousand units. Thus, a sufficient stock was formed in the warehouses, which led to a decrease in production volumes.

The main part of the issued coats and short coats are women's models, in 2014 they were sewn 1,019 thousand pieces, which is 82.2% of the total. Men's coats and short coats were made 220 thousand pieces. The largest companies producing this type of outerwear in the Russian Federation in 2014:

• JSC "Mayak" (Nizhny Novgorod region) - 81,600 units.
• Sinar LLC ( Novosibirsk region) - 68,600 pcs.
• CJSC Baltic Line (Kaliningrad region) - 57,300 units.
• JSC "Elegant" (Rostov region) - 46,600 units.

Unlike the production of coats and short coats, the production of jackets by Russian light industry enterprises has been growing steadily over the past three years. So in 2014, the increase in production amounted to 12.2%.

In 2014, 3,336 thousand jackets were sewn, of which 2,034 thousand for men and 1,302 thousand for women. Compared to 2013, the production of men's jackets increased by 392 thousand pieces, and women's - by 239 thousand pieces. The largest Russian manufacturer of jackets is CJSC Gloria Jeans, which is located in the Rostov region. Its share in the volume of production of this type of clothing is just over 40%. In 2014, this company produced 1,348 thousand jackets. Other large companies for tailoring jackets in the Russian Federation:

• LLC "Viteksky" (Moscow region) - 64,100 units.
• LLC "Ariadna-96" (Rostov region) - 32,300 units.
• JSC "Kukmor garment factory" (Tatarstan) - 24,500 pieces.

Costume production increased by 13.8% in 2014. This is the largest increase among all major types of clothing. This increase is attributed to the fact that there were small remnants of goods in the warehouses of enterprises - at the beginning of the year, about 10% of the shipment of these enterprises.

The bulk of the costumes produced are men's, about 90% of all sewn. In 2014, Russian enterprises produced 5,264,000 suits, of which 4,735,000 were for men. The largest Russian manufacturers suits:

• CJSC Pskov garment factory "Slavyanka" - 330,800 pieces.
• JSC "Sudar" (Vladimir region) - 183,000 units.
• OJSC "Elegant" (Ulyanovsk region) - 124,100 units.
• Peplos OJSC (Chelyabinsk region) - 106,700 units.

The production of dresses and sundresses has more than doubled over the past 5 years. In 2014, 8,867 thousand units were produced. dresses and sundresses. This is 10% more than in 2013. The production of dresses and sundresses is very concentrated, and although they are produced in all Federal Districts, according to the results of 2014, 73% were produced in the Southern Federal District, and 12.3% - in the Central.

The main manufacturer of dresses and sundresses in Russia is CJSC Gloria Jeans Corporation. It accounted for about 68% of all Russian production, which in quantitative terms is 6,008 thousand pieces. Other major dress and sundress companies in Russia:

• CJSC PKF "Elegant" (Rostov region) - 171,500 units.
• CJSC "Vyaznikovskaya garment factory" (Vladimir region) - 81,100 pieces.
• KP Manufaktury LLC (Moscow region) - 53,800 units.

The production of trousers, breeches and shorts is the most massive. In 2014, 21.4 million units were produced. this product. Compared to 2013, the increase amounted to 400 thousand units. The share of men's trousers accounts for 42.3% of the total production, the remaining 57.7% is occupied by the production of women's trousers, shorts and breeches. The largest manufacturer of these products in Russia is CJSC Gloria Jeans Corporation. At the end of 2014, this company produced 15,548 thousand trousers, shorts and breeches. Other major Russian companies producing this type of clothing:

• CJSC Peplos (Chelyabinsk region) - 136,300 units.
• CJSC Pskov garment factory "Slavyanka" - 135,800 pieces.
• CJSC "Alexandria" (Krasnodar Territory) - 99,300 units.

The production of workwear occupies an important place in the clothing industry, because in addition to the ever-growing demand for products, a significant part of it is sewn in correctional facilities and enterprises of societies for the disabled, thereby providing jobs for these categories of citizens. In total, about 112 million units of overalls were produced in 2014. Which is 6 million more than in 2013. The total volume of production amounted to 37.84 billion rubles.

In addition to the main types of clothing listed above, in 2014 the Russian light industry produced:

• Windbreakers and similar products - 769,000 pcs.
• Skirt and skirt-trousers - 4,476,000 pieces.
• Shirts for men's and women's blouses and body shirts (except for knitwear) - 4,864,000 pcs.
• Women's coats and short coats made of natural fur - 108,270 pcs.

Manufacture of leather and leather products

Turnover in the leather industry is significantly inferior to the total turnover in the clothing industry and the textile industry. In 2014, the revenue of enterprises in this light industry sector amounted to 46.7 billion rubles. This is the worst figure in the last three years. At the same time, the industry's enterprises have a rather low profitability - 6.9%. And the overall balanced result of enterprises in this branch of light industry has been negative for the second year in a row. In 2014, the financial sector for the industry was equal to (- 824) million rubles.

This branch of the Russian light industry includes three main areas: the production of leather, the production of footwear and the production of leather goods.

Leather production is one of the few sectors of the Russian light industry in which exports exceed imports. Leather production in Russia has been declining since 2010. Compared with previous year production decreased by 4.2% and amounted to 2,199.2 mln. dm. In the general structure of production, the main share is made up of chrome leather goods, that is, leather tanned with the help of chromium compounds. The production of hard and soft (yuft) leather is ten times less.

In the Russian Federation, leather is produced at 22 two enterprises, and chrome leather goods are produced at 20 of them. In addition, 7 enterprises have capacities for the production of yuft leather and 5 for the production of hard leather. In each industry there is, which produces more than 40% of the total volume in the country:

• Chrome leather - CJSC Russkaya Kozha (Ryazan region) - 1012.7 million sq.dm. (47.2% of the total).
• Yuft leather - Vakhrushi-yuft LLC (Kirov region) - 20.1 million sq. dm. (55.5% of the total).
• Rigid leather - Shevro LLC ( Voronezh region) - 9.8 million sq. dm. (51.5% of the total).

The main part of leather production is located in the Central Federal District, which accounts for 72.7% of the production of chrome leather and 9.4% of yuft leather goods. The second place is occupied by the Volga Federal District with indicators of 18.7% and 61.3%, respectively. On the third line is the Southern Federal District, where the production of chrome leather is 6% of the total, and yuft leather is 26.2%. The share of other federal districts in this branch of light industry is insignificant.

The production of leather is significantly influenced by the amount of imports and exports of products. So in 2013, exports accounted for 28.3% of production, and imports - 36.1%. And in 2014, the indicators changed dramatically - exports amounted to 48.7%, while imports decreased to 27%.

The main Russian exports are wet blue and crust cattle, as well as finished leather. Wet blue is a type of tanned leather that is not fully dried, while crust is leather without a top finish that retains its natural pattern. Wet blue is sold in standard sheets, and the main buyers of these products in Russia is Italy.

Footwear production in the Russian Federation in 2014 decreased by 6% and amounted to 111 million pairs. Of these, shoes with leather and textile uppers account for 60.8 million pairs, rubber and plastic shoes account for 41.6 million pairs. There were 2.8 million pairs of sports shoes and 5.8 million pairs of safety and other footwear.

Although shoe production enterprises are located in 7 Federal Districts, the main volume of output falls on the Central. At the end of 2014, 45.34% of all footwear was produced at the enterprises of this district. The output of footwear with leather and textile uppers by districts of the Russian Federation is as follows:

• Central Federal District - 27.57 million pairs;
• Southern Federal District - 14.71 million couples;
• Privolzhsky Federal District - 11.67 million pairs;
• Siberian Federal District - 2.23 million pairs;
• Ural Federal District - 2.21 million pairs;
• North Caucasian Federal District - 1.58 million pairs;
• Northwestern Federal District - 0.89 million pairs.

As in other sectors of the light industry, there is a clear leader in the shoe industry in Russia. Bris-Bosfor LLC (Krasnodar Territory) produces 31% of all shoes with leather and textile uppers in Russia, which in quantitative terms is 18.8 million pairs. Other major companies in this industry:

• LLC "MuyaProduction" (Vladimir region) - 3.44 million pairs;
• Unichel Shoe Firm CJSC (Chelyabinsk region) – 2.98 million pairs;
• CJSC Ralph Ringer (Moscow) - 1.62 million pairs;
• JSC "Torzhok shoe factory" (Tver region) - 1.47 million pairs.

The export of Russian footwear is much less than the import. At the end of 2014, 5.65 million pairs were exported for a total of 122.4 million US dollars. The main buyers of Russian footwear are the CIS countries.

During the same period, 118.23 million pairs of shoes were imported to Russia in the amount of 2,281 million US dollars. The excess of imports over exports in quantitative terms was 21 times, and in monetary terms 18.7 times. This once again confirms the fact that cheaper shoes are imported into the Russian Federation than Russian-made shoes. The main supplier of footwear to Russia is China.

The output of leather goods in the Russian Federation in 2014 decreased by 18.1% and amounted to 15,482 thousand items. Such a drop is primarily associated with a large number of balances in the warehouses of enterprises, as well as a drop in demand for domestic products of this type. The largest decline in the production of leather goods was recorded in the Northwestern and Central Federal Districts, by 50.3 and 11.5%, respectively. In the city of St. Petersburg, the main center of the leather goods industry of the Russian Federation, production decreased by 51.2%, but in monetary terms, the profit decreased by only 17%. Companies with the largest output of leather goods (bags, folders, suitcases, etc.) at the end of 2014 in Russia:

• LLC "Logistik inform" (St. Petersburg) - 2,684 thousand units.
• OOO "Vladimir Leather Goods Factory" - 2,479 thousand pieces.
• CJSC "Medvedkovo" (Moscow) - 633 thousand units.
• CJSC "Piterbag" (St. Petersburg) - 292 thousand units.

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And other products. Textile industry occupies one of the most important places in the production of a social product and the satisfaction of the needs of the population. Part Textile industry includes industries: primary processing of textile raw materials, cotton, linen, woolen, silk, non-woven materials, hemp-jute, net knitting, textile haberdashery, knitwear, felting and felt. Products Textile industry used for the production of clothing and footwear, as well as in other industries (for example, furniture, engineering).

The production of textile products originated in ancient times. Cotton cultivation and manual production yarns and fabrics were known in India, China and Egypt many centuries before our era. Textile industry was the first industry to enter the path of machine production. Started from this industry industrial revolution in the 2nd half of the 18th century.

In Russia, along with cloth manufactories and capitalist production at home, there were a large number of small enterprises that produced woolen products. These enterprises belonged to the landowners and were based on the labor of serfs. “Cloth production,” wrote V. I. Lenin, “is an example of that distinctive phenomenon in Russian history, which consists in the application of serf labor to industry” (Poln. sobr. soch., 5th ed., vol. 3, p. 471 ).

At the beginning of the 18th century Many large woolen (cloth), linen (mainly sailing and linen) and silk manufactories arose, which were created in areas where the population has long been engaged in the home production of linen fabrics (see. home industry ). The cotton industry arose in Russia much later than other industries. Textile industry and developed on the basis of linen weaving. Relatively large cotton enterprises appeared in the second half of the 18th and early 19th centuries.

In pre-revolutionary Russia Textile industry was one of the main manufacturing industries. In 1913, it accounted for 20.5% of all industrial output and about 32% of consumer goods production. Textile industry was located mainly in the Central District (the factory of the partnership of V. Morozov, the company of the Bogorodsk-Glukhovskaya manufactory, the industrial partnership of the Nosov brothers, the Musi-Gugzhon Silk Manufactory, the Prokhorovskaya Manufactory, etc.), as well as in the St. Petersburg region, in the Astrakhan and Saratov provinces. In Central Asia and Kazakhstan, that is, in the main raw areas, it was not. Development Textile industry restrained by the lack of textile raw materials and its dependence on imports. Main enterprises Textile industry were equipped mainly with imported textile machines. Domestic mechanical engineering satisfied only a little more than 20% of the needs for machine tools and machines. The knitting and silk-winding industry, textile haberdashery, primary processing of flax, wool, etc., were just emerging.

The position of the workers Textile industry was extremely difficult. Child labor was widely used.

After the 1st World War 1914-18, civil war 1918-20 the volume of production dropped sharply. Already in the first years of Soviet power, along with the launch of old textile enterprises, new factories were built. By 1926-27 factories were put into operation: them. Lakin, "Pioneer" (Vladimir region), weaving factory. F. E. Dzerzhinsky in Leningrad, Krasnaya Talka spinning factory named after. F. E. Dzerzhinsky in Ivanovo. The total output of cotton, linen, woolen, and silk fabrics exceeded the level of 1913. During the years of the first five-year plan (1929–32), 13 cotton, 3 linen, 4 woolen, and a number of other textile enterprises were put into operation. During the 2nd Five-Year Plan (1933-37), the construction of the first phases of the Tashkent and Barnaul cotton mills, the Dushanbe textile mill, flax mills in Smolensk, Orsha, and Kostroma, a cloth mill in Semipalatinsk, a silk-weaving factory in Nukh, and other enterprises were completed. Textile industry

as a result of increased production. output of cotton fabrics in 1940 significantly exceeded the level of 1913 (see Table 1). the production of knitwear increased from 8.3 million pieces in 1928 to 186 million pieces in 1940.

Tab. 1. - Production of fabrics in the USSR in 1913-40, mln. m 2

Cotton Woolen Silk Linen	1913	1940
	1817	2715

During the years of the pre-war five-year plans, a Textile industry in the union republics of Central Asia and Transcaucasia. A new industry has emerged Textile industry- production of non-woven materials such as fabrics. During the Great Patriotic War 1941-45 Textile industry in the territory temporarily occupied by the Nazi troops suffered great damage. Many businesses were destroyed. In the 4th five-year plan (1946-50) Textile industry was restored and the output of its products surpassed the pre-war level. After the war, all industries Textile industry received significant development. Cotton industry enterprises were built in Kamyshin, Engels, and Kherson. Barnaul (2nd plant), Dushanbe (2nd stage), Cheboksary, Yartsevo, Omsk, Gori, Krasnodar, Alytus, Kalinin, Alma-Ata, Bukhara, etc.; enterprises of the woolen industry - in Minsk, Bryansk, Ivanov, Krasnodar, Tyumen, Chernigov, Chita, Chernogorsk; silk industry - in Krasnoyarsk, Naro-Fominsk. Kalinin, Leningrad; linen industry - in Zhytomyr, Rovno, Velikiye Luki, Panevezys; knitwear industry - in Cheboksary, Ufa, Pinsk. Ogre, Kursk, and others. The commissioning of new capacities, the introduction of high-performance equipment, the transfer of enterprises to a new system of planning and economic incentives contributed to an increase in the growth rate of the production of fabrics and knitwear. Development Textile industry in 1950-74 is characterized by the data of Table. 2. In the production of woolen and linen fabrics, the USSR occupies (1975) first place in the world.

Tab. 2. - Production of the main types of products of the textile industry in the USSR in 1950-75, mln. m 2

Cotton Woolen Silk Linen and outerwear, million pieces	1950	1960	1970	1975
	2745	4838	6152	6635

The growth in output is ensured by a corresponding increase in the production of textile raw materials. In pre-revolutionary Russia, with the production of 4 times less cotton fabrics and the almost complete absence of the production of knitwear, about 50% of the consumed cotton fiber was imported from the USA and Egypt. The USSR fully satisfies its needs for raw materials and exports over 500,000 t cotton fiber. At the same time, the qualitative composition of textile raw materials also changed. Artificial fiber factories have mastered the production of new types of products (acetate silk, lavsan, nitron, etc.). Much attention is paid to improving the quality and expanding the range of textile products through the introduction of new structures of fabrics and knitwear, the use of strong and bright dyes and careful finishing of fabrics. A further increase in output and improvement in product quality occurs due to the technical re-equipment of enterprises Textile industry. implementation new technology and progressive technology, as well as mechanization and automation of production. AT Textile industry spinning-twisting, high-performance carding and pneumo-mechanical spinning machines, pneumorapier and other shuttleless looms are installed.

Scientific and technological progress in industries Textile industry and the growth of workers' qualifications contribute to the increase of labor productivity. Thus, the output of yarn on average per worker per hour increased in 1974 compared to 1940 by 2.4 times in the cotton industry, 3.5 times in the woolen industry, and 2.3 times in the linen industry. The production of gray fabrics over the same period, on average per 1 worker per hour, increased respectively by 2.2 times, by 2.4. 2.3 times.

Textile industry serve (1975) 10 research and 5 design institutes, which employ over 7 thousand specialists in various fields. To train technologists and artists Textile industry created textile institutes in Moscow, Leningrad, Ivanovo, Tashkent, Kostroma, Kyiv, as well as a number of technical schools.

Textile industry is also successfully developing in foreign socialist countries. The production of fabrics in these countries is increasing on the basis of using the internal capabilities of each country and all-round cooperation between them. Table 1 gives an idea of ​​the level of textile production in the socialist countries. 3. According to estimates, the production of cotton fabrics in the PRC in 1974 amounted to 8.34 billion linear m.

Tab. 3. - Production of fabrics in foreign socialist countries. million m 2

Bulgaria Czechoslovakia Yugoslavia	Cotton		Woolen		Silk
	1960	1975	1960	1975	1960	1975
	185,0 246,5 416,6 604,0 248,3 453,1	338,7 351,4 473,2 952,7 591,1 547,9 375,5	26,2 30,8 147,1 108,7 29,8	48,0 36,2 106,7 181,3 78,1	8,7	31,1 54,5 120,6 193,3 88,8 102,9 39.5

Among the capitalist countries Textile industry has received the greatest development in the USA, Japan, Great Britain, France, Germany, Italy. The production of cotton fabrics in 1975 amounted to (bn. m 2): in the USA 4.0, Japan 1.9, Germany, France and Italy 0.9 each, Great Britain 0.4; woolen fabrics (mln. m 2): in Japan 320, Italy 250, Great Britain 180, France 170, Germany and the USA 100 each; silk fabrics (million m 2): in USA 6500, Japan 3000, West Germany 420, Great Britain 401, France 370, Italy 280 (1974).

Among the developing countries, the production of cotton fabrics in 1974 was: in India, 7.95 billion linear m, in Egypt 275 million linear m, in Iran 495 million linear m(together with fabrics made of synthetic fibers, in 1972/73).

Lit.: Lyashchenko P.I. History of the national economy of the USSR, vol. 1, M.. 1952; Khromov P. A. Essays on the economy of the textile industry of the USSR, M.-L.. 1946; Vladimirsky N. N. From home weaving to socialist textile production, Kostroma, 1949; Korneev A, M .. Textile industry of the USSR and ways of its development, M .. 1957.

A. M. Zharov, I. K. Khmelevsky.

Article about the word Textile industry" in the Great Soviet Encyclopedia has been read 25489 times

The world is of great social importance, because it produces various types of products for personal use and thus forms one of the most important components of the material well-being of people.

Peculiarities:

• especially close connection with the consumer, dependence on the historical, geographical and socio-economic level of development of the population of a particular territory;
• special dynamism of the industry, expressed in a rapid change in the range of products due to changes in fashion, tastes, etc.;
• variability of requirements for raw materials, semi-finished products, accessories and their design, as well as for technologies and organization of production;
• special requirements for the quality of the labor force (the presence of artistic culture, taste, etc.).

Industry composition

Light industry has a rather complex sectoral structure. It includes:

• raw materials production: production of cotton and raw cotton, processing of skins, etc.;
• semi-product industries: spinning, textile, dyeing, leather, fur, etc.;
• production of final products: sewing, knitwear, carpet, haberdashery, footwear, etc.

Developed (especially the USA, Italy, Japan, Germany, France), with a reduction in their share in the production of cotton and woolen fabrics, remain the largest manufacturers of knitwear, fabrics from chemical fibers (synthetic and mixed). Although in these types of textile industry their role is steadily declining due to the organization of production in developing countries (India, China, the Republic of Korea, Taiwan, etc.). Ten largest producers of chemical fibers.

In Russia, which used to be one of the largest manufacturers of all types of natural fabrics in the world, there is a strong decline in their production.

clothing industry

It has become the leading branch of light industry, consumes the vast majority of fabrics produced in the world, is characterized by high labor intensity, active demand for products, especially fashionable ones, as well as an extraordinary variety of goods.

As in the textile industry, the importance of developing countries is great in the clothing industry. Many of them, primarily China, India, Taiwan, have become the largest manufacturers and exporters of ready-made clothing. Developed countries (especially the USA, France, Italy, etc.) are increasingly specialized in

production of fashionable, elite, individual products.

shoe industry

The range of this industry is quite high, although it is somewhat inferior to the clothing industry. The industry is characterized by a variety of raw materials for production. In addition to natural, recently synthetic raw materials are increasingly being used, which are much cheaper. Expensive leather shoes today make up no more than 1/3 of the total number of shoes produced (12 billion pairs per year).

The footwear industry, among the light industries, has shifted to the greatest extent from developed countries to developing countries. The leaders in the manufacture of shoes were the PRC (which overtook the previous leaders and the United States in its production and gives more than 40% of the world's shoes) and other Asian countries - the Republic of Korea, Taiwan, Japan, Vietnam,. In developed countries (Italy, the USA, Germany stand out), the manufacture of leather shoes from expensive raw materials, with a high labor intensity of production, has mainly been preserved. Italy is the largest producer and exporter of such footwear. In Russia, the production of shoes for last years decreased several times, and the country from the world's largest producer of footwear (in 1990 second only to China) has become a significant importer of footwear.

Thus, the main branches of light industry are currently developing especially rapidly in the countries of new industrialization and other developing countries, which is largely due to their high supply of raw materials and cheap labor. Industrialized countries, having lost their positions in a number of traditional mass, technically uncomplicated industries (cheap types of fabrics, footwear, clothing, and other types of consumer goods), retain their leading role in the manufacture of especially fashionable, high-quality, expensive products oriented towards high technology and labor qualification, a limited circle of consumers (production of carpets, furs, jewelry, footwear standards, clothing, fabrics from expensive raw materials, etc.).