After the machine was completely disassembled, it was time to paint it. Having examined the surfaces of its parts, it became clear that the existing paintwork must be removed. You can, of course, paint it like that, but, most likely, the old paint will swell, but I didn't want to do double work. I tried to remove the paint with a sandblaster that connects to the Herker, but this is all nonsense. This bourgeois pribluda does not beat off paint originally from the USSR. As a result, I went for a special tool for removing old paint. We took ours, we will support our manufacturers, and for one we will test this tool.

I'll tell you, it's a vigorous thing. The paint rises in one layer almost immediately after application (in this particular case). I am generally silent about unprotected skin, it calmly burns hands even through rubber gloves, so you need to work strictly with glasses and good rubber gloves. Some parts of the machine were painted in three layers, so it was not possible to reduce the paint at one time, and where there was a coating in one layer, as I said, there were no problems at all. To simplify the work of removing paint, I used a high-pressure washer, paired with a remover, they work in general perfectly. We do it this way: we apply the product to the paint that needs to be removed, and leave it all for thirty minutes. Thirty minutes later, we arrive and use a high pressure washer to knock down the exfoliated coating. If there are places that did not give in, then the procedure is repeated. In my case, absolutely everything went away from the third time. Laundered details. Due to the water, a slight coating of rust appeared on the surface of the cast-iron piece of iron. It was easily removed with a solvent.

Painting. I decided to paint the massive elements of the machine in bright green, and painted some small parts and the control handle in black.

All fasteners were replaced. When assembling, I will use stainless steel hardware. There are thoughts to modernize the headstock a little, but more on that later. If it does not work out, then I will assemble it in the regular version.

I do not plan to make any changes to the tailstock design yet. The only thing that will have to be replaced is the quill clamp pin and the quill guide screw, also known as the set screw. The pin of the quill clamp needs to be changed because of the tortured thread, it has already fallen into disrepair.

I will talk about the collection and refinement of each of the nodes in the following articles.

Articles on the restoration of the machine.

Today, machines are widely used in many operations. When painting of machines is required, such work should be entrusted only to qualified specialists who will responsibly approach the execution. The company "NTV-energo Antikor" offers services for painting various types of machines on favorable terms.

Professional painting

In the case of such equipment as machine tools, the task is to ensure effective protection of metal surfaces from corrosion. This can be achieved together with correctly selected types of paint and adherence to the dyeing technology.

By ordering equipment painting services from a specialized company, clients receive a high-quality job. This provides excellent corrosion protection, which contributes to a significant increase in the service life of the machine itself. Thus, all the material costs required to order the service becomes a cost-effective investment due to the achievement of equipment longevity.

Advantages

The company "NTV-energo Antikor" offers favorable conditions for ordering services. These include:

• Affordable pricing that contributes to low cost to customers.
• Attracting qualified specialists to work, using all the required modern equipment and tools allows you to quickly cope with the tasks.
• Experienced employees do an excellent job of painting various types of machines, providing customers with a high-quality result in a short time.

It is equally important that modern and high-quality materials are used in the performance of the work, which are correctly selected by the employees in each case. When ordering a service, clients can receive professional expert advice on all issues.

After the machine is repaired and debugged, the question arises of what and how to paint it. There are several requirements for the painting of the machine:

1. Protection of the surface of the machine against corrosion (humidity, temperature drops)
2. Resistance to mechanical stress (scratches, abrasion, chips, cracks)
3. Resistance to chemical attack (oil, coolant)
4. Preservation of the appearance of the paintwork throughout the entire service life

Stages of painting work

For painting a metal surface, it is advisable to use a three-layer, or better four-layer coating system:

1. Adhesive primer layer- must be viscous and elastic, contain a soft resin with high adhesion;
2. Putty- without the use of putty, it is not possible to obtain a flawless, even and shiny surface for painting on metal;
3. Priming layer- the primer layer must impart color to the color and therefore contain a sufficient amount of good hiding pigments;
4. Coating, paint- the top layer provides the entire coating with a flawless surface.

If necessary, more than four layers of coatings have to be applied, which means that some of the four layers have to be applied several times. For example, in addition to the normal putty, a filler is also used for straightening, which is applied to individual places of the painted product with severe surface defects.

All work on painting the surface of machines is reduced to the following sequence:

• Preparing the surface of the machine - cleaning from dirt, rust, old paint, applying a primer and putty, leveling the surface;
• Painting - applying paint to a prepared surface;
• Drying of the painted surface.

1. Preparing the surface of the machine for painting

Cleaning the surface from dirt, rust, old paint

Cleaning the metal surface is necessary to improve the adhesion of the paint material and the corrosive properties of the painted surface.

The surface should be cleaned of old paint, which, if not removed, may prevent fresh paint from reaching the surface as efficiently as possible.

There are several ways to remove dirt, rust, old paint from the surface of machines:

• Mechanical- cleaning with scrapers, wire brushes, sandpaper or sandblasting;
• Chemical- removal of old paint by rinsing with white spirit, turpentine, acetone, etc., or with a 5-10% solution of caustic alkali at a temperature of 80-90 ° C, followed by rinsing with water;
• Thermal- removal of paint with a blowtorch flame and other means.

The best way to clean the surface of the machine from corrosion is by sandblasting or shot blasting. Cleaning is greatly facilitated also by using a power tool.

Primer, putty and leveling of the machine surface

After cleaning the surface of the machine, it is necessary to degrease and prime. The primer layer protects the surface from corrosion and, most importantly, must contain a resin with high adhesion - viscous and elastic. The primer is made by hand with a brush, using a spray gun or dipping, if the details are small.

A well-proven 2-component epoxy primer with a high content of anti-corrosive additives - SG64. Thixotropic properties provide low viscosity when spraying and fast "setting" with the surface, without spreading, and high adhesion to metal and hiding power allows you to create a uniform hard coating. This primer effectively protects the working surfaces of machine tools from corrosion, as well as from chemical attack and excessive moisture. The SG64 can be paired with a homogeneous or structured acrylic and polyurethane enamel from the PD series.

The primed surface is again degreased and putty in order to level it and improve the appearance of the coating. The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2 mm. The putty is applied to the surface with rubber, metal or wooden spatulas.

One of the innovations in this area is the automotive glass fiber reinforced putty, especially useful for filling large dents.

After the putty has dried, it is carefully sanded, polished until all irregularities are smoothed out with sandpaper No. 80-100, and the final one with pumice or waterproof sandpaper. Grinding is greatly facilitated by the active use of the power tool.

Before painting, degreasing must be performed (anti-silicone or degreaser), dust, oil, grease are removed.

2. Painting the machine

Painting of machines can be done both disassembled and assembled. If it is necessary to paint over individual units, they, as a rule, are removed from the machine, and then, after painting, they are installed back.

Usually, for better painting, it is necessary to dry and paint every part that is in the machine, since the subsequent normal operation of the machine depends on each part.

Only clean and smooth surfaces are painted. You can paint with a spray or brush. Usually, the paint is filtered through a metal sieve with 1600-2400 holes per 1 cm2 before being applied to the product. A second coat of paint can only be applied after the previous coat has dried, giving the machine a beautiful appearance.

The current national standards for the painting of metalworking machines provide mainly only two colors - gray and green. Other colors available in the standards are intended for painting signaling and warning equipment, etc. Departments of artistic design of equipment have developed proposals for expanding the range of colors for painting the outer surfaces of metalworking machines.

Choice of paint

To solve the complex problem of protecting and improving the appearance of the surface of machines, special paints have been developed, For example:

• Polymeron- urethane special enamel for metal + Phosphogrunt- fast-drying phosphating primer for metal;
• PD-39- structured polyurethane one-layer paint based on acrylic;
• PD-48- structural polyurethane paint based on acrylic-polyurethane.

A good alternative to special paints - automotive acrylic enamels and a two component epoxy primer. Automotive paints were originally created for harsh conditions.

For a good surface finish, it is best to use an airless (electric) spray or compressor. The manual method of painting is also possible, however, more often than not, the quality decreases and more time is spent.

It is convenient to use spray paints. They are easy to apply, provide high painting performance, and also allow you to paint the surface with different colors and do not require the use of additional painting equipment.

In car stores, you can also pick up a variety of auxiliary materials, protective tapes, drip removers, and special protective clothing.

3. Drying

Drying is carried out at a higher air temperature than at the time of painting, preferably in a drying chamber, then the paint will adhere to the metal structure in the best way. But you can use "infrared heaters".

4.GOST 22133-86

For painting equipment in an industrial environment, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements GOST 22133-86 Paint and varnish coatings for metal-cutting, forging and pressing, foundry and woodworking equipment. General requirements and GOST 9.032 Paint and varnish coatings. Groups, technical requirements and designations.

The standard applies to the painting of metal-cutting, press-forging, foundry and woodworking equipment, including robotic technological complexes, establishes general requirements, color, texture and classes of paint and varnish coatings

The following range of colors is recommended: green, light green, gray, blue, gray-blue, dark cream, light cream. The colors shown are not intended to serve as a color reference or standard. Each type of machine requires individual creativity. On the pages of the journal "Technical aesthetics" much attention is paid to the aesthetic culture of production, especially in the scientific approach to painting equipment and workshop premises.

The list of enamels used for painting machines in accordance with GOST 22133-86

Enamel NTs-25 is a suspension of SVP in a solution of colloxylin BHB and rosin ester with the addition of plasticizers. Enamel is produced in 19 colors. It is applied with a paint sprayer in 2-3 layers on a primed metal surface.

Diluted to a working viscosity of 25-38 s according to VZ-4 with solvent 64B or 646. The main purpose of the enamel is to paint equipment and various metal and wood products operated by the premises.

Enamel NTs-132 - nitroalkide. Available in two grades - brush NTs-132K and spray NTs-132P. Each brand is available in 24 colors. The non-volatile part includes colloxylin, alkyd resin No. 188, plasticizers, pigments.

To improve the filling, organosilicon liquids (such as PMS-200A, AF-2K, etc.) are introduced. The volatile part of the enamels applied with a brush consists of 30% (wt.) High-boiling active solvents, 25-30% butyl alcohol and 45-50% xylene. The volatile part of the enamels applied by the spray gun contains 12.5-16% (wt.) High-boiling active solvents, 8-12% low-boiling active solvents, 35% ethyl, butyl or isobutyl alcohols and 40-41% toluene.

Pigments are introduced into the neutralization system by dissolving SVP or in the form of pigment pastes obtained by dispersing it with a bead or ball mill or on a paint-grinding machine.

Before use, the enamel is diluted: NTs-132K - with a solvent 649 to a working viscosity of 30-60 s according to VZ-4, and NTs-132P - with a solvent 646 to a working viscosity of 18-20 s. The enamels are applied in two layers.

They form glossy, wear-resistant and weather-resistant coatings. Enamels are used for painting metal pre-primed with alkyd primers and wood products that do not require decorative finishing.

Enamel NTs-256 - intended for painting machine tools. They are a suspension of SVP in a solution of VNV colloxylin, alkyd resilic resin and plasticizers. Enamel is available in 11 colors. Before use, dilute to a working viscosity of 22-25 s according to VZ-4 with solvent 646 or 647 in an amount of 90-110% of the enamel mass.

The enamel is applied with a paint sprayer over a layer of GF-021 or GF-0163 primer or PF-OZZP water-borne primer in three layers. The first and second layers are dried for 10-15 minutes, the third layer for 2 hours.

The enamel forms a glossy coating with good physical and mechanical properties, withstands the effects of alkaline coolants (triethaiolamia, alkaline emulsion, etc.) and gasoline.

Enamel NTs-262 is a suspension of technical carbon in a solution of colloxylin, alkyd resilic resin and plasticizers. The enamel is obtained by dissolving the SVP of technical carbon in a nitro base.

To a working viscosity of 25-30 s according to VZ-4, the enamel is diluted with solvent 646 and applied with a paint sprayer on an alkyd primer in three layers with intermediate drying for 10-20 minutes and final drying at 18-22 "C for 1 hour. The enamel after drying forms a glossy coating with a thickness of 45-60 microns.The coating can be sanded and polished with waterproof abrasives and polishing pastes.The enamel is used for painting the heads of sewing machines.

Putty NTs-0043 is a pasty mass consisting of a mixture of pigments, fillers and thixotropic substances with nitroaxis. The approximate composition of the putty [in% (wt.)] Is as follows: zinc white 13.5-14, talc 27-28, chalk 15-15.5, thixotropic additive 1.5, nitro base 41-43. The putty is obtained by dispersing pigments and fillers in a heavy bead mill or in a ball mill. The main purpose is to level the cast iron surfaces of machine tools.

Filling with metal or rubber spatulas is possible both continuous over the entire surface of the machine, and local. The putty is applied in a layer up to 1 mm thick; after drying for 4 hours at 18-220C or for 1 hour at 60-700C, the putty layer is subjected to dry or wet grinding.