Number of dots on matrix

The main characteristic is usually considered the number of pixels on the matrix; the maximum resolution of the images, and hence the quality, depends on it.

Theoretically, the more megapixels, the better. However, manufacturers know that buyers primarily look at this parameter, and therefore, matrices with an exorbitant number of megapixels are often put in cheap models.
Example: the matrix of a professional Canon EOS 5D for 100 thousand rubles is 23 megapixels, and the matrix of a cheap Recam for 3,000 rubles is 21 megapixels. But this does not mean that professional Canon and Recam soaps shoot equally well.

important physical size matrices (measured in millimeters), and the hardware and software stuffing of the camera. In the same Canon, the sensor size is large enough to eliminate digital noise, and the optics give good focus. And vice versa, in Recam, a small matrix is ​​very noisy, and poor optics do not give a clear picture.

APS, Four Thirds, Full Frame

• APS are matrices that have a width to length ratio of 3:2.
• Four Thirds - matrices with a length-to-width ratio of 4:3.
• Full Frame - "full-sized" matrix, like film cameras - 36 x 24 mm.

crop factor

This is the ratio of the size of the matrix to the size of the frame on the film. Standard film had a frame of 36 x 24 mm, and all optics were designed for this size. Today, matrices are usually made smaller, the ratio of the "classic" frame of 36 x 24 to the dimensions of the digital matrix is ​​\u200b\u200bcalled "crop factor". The smaller it is, the more likely it will be a high-quality matrix.

How many megapiskels do you need? It depends on the tasks that you set for yourself.
If you want to view photos on a monitor screen, then for HD quality you need 1920x1080 pixels, or only 2 megapixels.
For printing with a quality of 300 dpi (300 dpi - standard quality) on a sheet of 13x18 centimeters, you need 1600x2200 dots - 3.5 Megapixels, on a sheet of 20x30 centimeters - you need 2400x3550 dots - 8.5 megapixels.
As you can see, the needs are very modest.
Dozens of megapixels are needed only in order to later enlarge a fragment of the image, or to compensate for the shortcomings of the matrix - take a large image of "mediocre" quality and reduce it to a decent one (see "").

Conclusion: neither the physical size of the matrix, nor the number of megapixels are directly related to the quality of the image. The only objective way to evaluate the quality is to take test shots (see " ").

Zoom

A handy feature that almost all digital cameras (except special optics for SLR cameras) are equipped with is the ability to "zoom in" - change the focal length.

The statement that “the larger the zoom, the better” is erroneous. Zoom is a value that shows the ratio of the maximum and minimum focal length. How much "enters the frame" depends on the focal length. For example, if you buy a camera for shooting parties with friends, and the minimum focal length is too large, your friends will simply not fit into the frame. Similarly, in the frame of a camera with a large focal length will not enter the whole large building on the street (see "")

Zoom is optical and digital.
Optical Zoom is an increase by means of optics (i.e. changing the focal length of the lens). Such an increase is the highest quality.
Digital Zoom is the stretching of an already finished image by software; with this stretching, the quality becomes worse (try stretching a small picture to fill the screen - and you will see how noticeable the deterioration is). I advise you not to use digital zoom at all when shooting. digital zoom can be done later, in a relaxed environment on the computer.

Conclusion: when choosing Zoom, we pay attention only to the optical one, and be sure to look at the focal length.

Focal length

This is a characteristic on which the viewing angle depends. Remember how many times when trying to shoot a group of friends you had to ask them to “get up more closely” or “move away” yourself so that everyone would enter the frame? This means that your camera had too long a focal length.
The smaller the minimum focal length, the more “will enter the frame”.
And vice versa, the larger the maximum focal length, the larger you can shoot far-standing objects.

The focal length depends not only on the parameters of the lens, but also on the size of the matrix. Since in digital devices all matrices are different, they use the concept of “focal length equivalent to film” - i.e. recalculated for the usual frame size for photographers (on film) 36x24 mm.

Please note that even for interchangeable lenses, many manufacturers proudly indicate the focal length not “equivalent to film”, but specifically for this lens. For example, Sony proudly writes that its "whale" lens has a focal length of only 18mm. However, when converted into a “film equivalent”, the figure turns out to be not 18, but ... 28 mm, i.e. not much is included in the frame. Don't forget about this promotional trick!
The "equivalent" focal length can also be calculated by knowing the crop factor of the lens by multiplying the focal length values ​​by the crop factor.

"Average" values ​​​​are considered to be 30-90 mm in "film equivalent" (3x zoom). However, it is better to have a minimum focal length of no more than 24 mm, a maximum of 85 mm is enough.

Conclusion: we buy a lens with a focal length of 24 (or less) by 85 (or more) mm.

SLR camera

In the days of film cameras, only "SLR" cameras could guarantee the photographer clear pictures. After all, if on conventional devices the distance to the filmed had to be determined manually, then in the mirror ones it was possible to “focus on sharpness” by looking at the object through the lens. In the viewfinder, the photographer immediately saw how sharp his shot would be: what would be “in focus” and what would be “blurred”.

Digital SLR cameras have the same advantage: you see the future picture not on the LCD screen, but with your own eye. And the "resolution" of the eye is much higher than that of any matrix :-)
However, if you're shooting with an LCD focus only, if you're not used to manually focusing, you won't be able to take advantage of this.

The second advantage of digital "SLR" cameras is that they provide the ability to use interchangeable lenses. After all, no matter how perfect the matrix is, it is impossible to take a high-quality picture without high-quality lens optics.
And high-quality optics are very expensive, sometimes several times more expensive than the camera itself. However, if you are never going to use interchangeable lenses, you will not be able to use this advantage either.

One of the common misconceptions is that a "reflex camera" is better than a "normal" one.

A SLR camera is better only if you use high-quality lenses, which, I repeat, are often more expensive than the camera itself. If you are not ready to spend money on expensive lenses, it is better to buy “ordinary” devices: they show top scores than "reflex" cameras with "whale" (see below) optics. It is better to take a high-quality "semi-professional" camera than a "professional" one without high-quality optics.

Conclusion: with a limited budget (and if you do not use manual settings) - we buy a regular camera. With an unlimited budget (and the desire to adjust as many parameters as possible) - we buy a separate SLR camera, separate lenses for it.

Body or Kit (for SLR cameras)

High-quality optics often cost more than the camera itself. And the development of electronic technology does not affect optics in any way. Therefore, many professionals, when changing a camera, leave the old lenses (and manufacturers make sure that their old optics fit new models).
In addition, all professionals have different tasks, which means that they need different lenses (short-focus, long-focus, portrait, etc.) - therefore, the manufacturer offers to buy a camera separately, a lens separately. Such delivery is called "Body".

"Body" - it means you buy only the device, without a lens (lens - for a fee).

Since most buyers of SLR cameras are not professionals, and have little idea what lenses they need, manufacturers also sell a “camera + lens” kit. Such a set includes a "universal" lens - the one that is most suitable for beginners. Due to the mass production, such lenses are relatively cheap.
Sometimes the kit includes 2 lenses - a short throw and a long throw (in other words, for shooting at close and far distances).

"Kit" is a reflex camera with a lens (an "entry" level lens, but this level is enough for most amateurs).

Conclusion: If you intend to buy interchangeable lenses from the very beginning - choose a lens, and buy "Body". If you do not intend to spend money on lenses, buy a “kit” - buying such a set costs less than buying everything separately.

Live View (in SLR cameras)

The optical system of SLR cameras is designed so that the image enters the matrix only at the time of shooting - when the shutter button is pressed, the rest of the time the image passes through the lens into the optical viewfinder.
As a result, only photographs already taken are visible on the LCD screen, and the photographer adjusts the sharpness, shutter speed and aperture only based on his own experience (or by making test shots).

However, with the growing popularity of SLR cameras, manufacturers realized that beginners were increasingly buying them, so the “Live View” mode was invented specifically for them, when the camera can switch from “reflex” mode to “normal” mode. Accordingly, you see the image being shot either in the viewfinder - where you can accurately focus, or on the LCD screen - where you can accurately select the shutter speed and aperture.

"Live View" is convenient in that you can evaluate the correct settings (shutter speed, aperture, white balance) even before you take a picture.

Conclusion: it is better to buy a SLR camera with the “Live View” mode.

Now consider what usually eludes the inexperienced amateur photographer ...

Noises

One of the most important parameters, which, unfortunately, is never indicated in the specifications, is the amount of digital noise in the image.
You have probably noticed that in some digital images, sometimes some colored stripes are visible instead of a uniform tone - scientifically, these chaotic distortions are called “digital noise”.

Theoretically, the larger the matrix (meaning the physical dimensions, not its resolution) or the lower the power consumption, the less noise. But the occurrence of noise is also affected by thermal processes in the apparatus and, of course, quality - i.e. technology. In a word, there is no direct relationship between the size of the matrix and the presence of digital noise.

The only way to really appreciate the noise is to take a few test shots and then test their quality in quiet conditions. (Some stores allow you to take test photos. You only need to have a memory card suitable for this unit.)
By the way, all professional cameras are also distinguished by the fact that they have a good noise reduction system - this must be indicated in their characteristics.

Tip: The amount of noise increases as the sensitivity (ISO value) increases. If you want to get good shots, shoot at a minimum ISO.

By the way, minimum value ISO allows you to immediately understand which class the camera belongs to. If ISO = 50 is indicated in the minimum characteristics, this is a sure sign of not the best matrix.

Conclusion: don't chase the maximum number megapixels, and check the quality of the pictures.

ISO

ISO is a unit of film sensitivity (like our GOST), if you remember - earlier film was sold at 32, 64, 125, 250 GOST units, then it was replaced by imported one at 100, 200, 400 ISO ... The more sensitivity - the with less illumination, you can shoot, or the lower the shutter speed can be set.

Let me explain with an example: if at 100 ISO the shutter speed should be 1/10 second - and you need a tripod, then at 400 ISO (100 * 4) - 1/40 (1/10/4) sec is enough, and you can already shoot "with hands."

However, nothing is given "for free": so with film, the greater the sensitivity, the larger the grains, i.e. at high magnification it was impossible to convey fine details. There are other limitations, which can be read about in the specialized literature. In a word, professional photographers preferred not to pursue high sensitivity, but to choose a film that corresponded to the shooting conditions.

In modern digital devices, increasing sensitivity (increasing ISO) has to be paid for by increasing digital noise. As with film, the lower the ISO, the better the photos you get.

Advertised ISO 3200, ISO 6400, of course, allow you to shoot in very low light, but the digital noise in the pictures is so great that it is almost impossible to use such pictures.
On cheap devices, noise already affects ISO 400.

Therefore, manufacturers, knowing about the low quality of their matrices, reduce the minimum ISO. This, by the way, is a sign of a cheap matrix: for such cameras, the minimum ISO is 40-60 units.

Conclusion: we pay attention only to the minimum ISO - it is better if it is not lower than 100.

Optics

Optics are the most important part of any camera. Bad optics can be immediately recognized by the presence of a halo in photographs at the boundaries of objects with different illumination (the contours are not clear, but surrounded by purple and yellow stripes at the edges). Scientifically, such distortions are called aberration.

You can check the quality of the optics only by taking test shots. At what for test shots it is better to choose objects “inconvenient for the camera”: a dark object on a light background, or at least the roof of a house against the background bright sky. Distortions occur at the boundaries of the light difference, so for a test shot, the light difference of objects in the frame should be as large as possible.

Conclusion: we take test shots with sharp changes in illumination, and look at the resulting pictures on the computer screen, or on the camera screen with maximum magnification.

Other important parameters to pay attention to:

Manual white balance

Mandatory attribute for me good camera, is a manual white balance.
What it is? This is an opportunity to tell the automation what to consider as white.

Let's conduct an experiment: take a white sheet and look at it in a room illuminated by incandescent lamps - it will seem yellowish to you, when illuminated by fluorescent lamps - purple, at dusk - grayish. But gradually we get used to the current lighting, and the sheet again begins to seem absolutely white to us: our eye adapts to changes in color tones. But if you don’t do color correction when taking a photo, then the pictures will be yellowish, bluish or grayish (and no computer color correction can fix this).

Manual white balance avoids this. You just point the camera at what you think should be white, and the camera adjusts the color correction itself.

In cheap models, there are only pre-set modes: "street", "home", "evening", "poor lighting". But in real life this may not be enough.

Conclusion: it is better to buy a device with a manual white balance function (beginners may neglect this advice).

Shooting speed and autofocus accuracy

It is worth paying attention to the shooting speed and the correct operation of autofocus. Many are accustomed to the fact that on conventional cameras, as soon as you press the shutter button, the picture is taken immediately. On digital cameras, the autofocus process is much slower, sometimes you have to wait a second or even longer for the device to adjust. This is not a problem if you are shooting a static landscape, but when you need to shoot a moving object, in a second it will have time to leave the frame, or, for example, the person sitting at the table will have time to turn his head and the picture will be hopelessly ruined.
Again, if on a sunny day when shooting outdoors there are no problems, then at home (in simple terms - in poor lighting) autofocus can lie, and then instead of a clear picture you get something smeared.

By the way, the low light warning function will be useful.

What it is? In bright light, the exposure time is less than 1/100 of a second, so it doesn't matter if you hold the camera firmly or move it. But at shutter speeds less than 1/30 of a second, you need to keep the device absolutely still (as far as possible) - so it would be nice to have a reminder function about this.

I won’t talk about how to use autofocus correctly here, although many people forget about it - as a result, blurry pictures are obtained.

In a word, we pay attention to the speed of focusing and operation.

Burst shooting

The number of frames in the series and the number of frames per second - what is it?

In some cases, it can be difficult to press the trigger at the “right moment”: for example, the finish of a sprint race, or jumping into the pool. For such cases, “continuous shooting” is used - i.e. when you press the shutter button, the camera takes several pictures at certain intervals, from which you can then choose “the one”.

Another purpose of continuous shooting is to take the same shots with different lighting settings. For example, a series of 5 frames: the first is much darker than you set, the second is a little darker, the third is according to your settings, the fourth is a little lighter, the fifth is a lot lighter. This allows you to avoid mistakes when setting the exposure: one out of five frames is sure to turn out well.
This differs from normal shooting in that the camera does not “waste time” on new installation shooting parameters, but shoots with those set at the start of shooting (or corrects only individual characteristics). This function has a number natural restrictions: The maximum number of frames per second (which the camera mechanism can take), and the maximum number of frames per burst (limited by the camera's memory buffer).

Frames per second- this is the maximum amount that the device can remove in a second.

Number of frames in a series- this is the maximum number of frames within one series (in modern devices it is often limited only by the size of the flash card).

Matrix backlight

Of course, there is no “backlighting of the matrix” in this technology - no one shines on the matrix from the reverse side, although some layers do change places.

To understand how this works, think of a matrix as layer cake. The first layer is the base (strong substrate) on which everything else will be attached. The second layer is LEDs. The third layer is electrical wiring (electrical leads from LEDs). The fourth layer is light filters. Fifth - lenses (microlenses - for each pixel on the matrix).

No matter how thin the electrical wiring (the third layer) is, it still reduces the maximum possible surface area of ​​the LED. Therefore, the “reverse order” of the layers is used - first, all the electrical wiring is mounted on the substrate, and already LEDs are mounted on it. As a result, now nothing prevents using the entire matrix area for LEDs, which means (with the same dimensions) the sensitivity increases.

It is clear that this technology is much more complicated, and therefore more expensive. A few years ago, it was used only for astronomical instruments. But over time, the rise in the cost of production has become less significant, and today a matrix with "back-illumination" is used in "household" cameras.

Night shooting without a tripod

The essence of the technology is that instead of taking long-term shooting, it is divided into time periods.

Imagine that you hold the lens open for 4 seconds, rotating it 1 degree every second. As a result, you will get a picture where the camera has rotated 4 degrees - i.e. pretty blurry image. Now imagine that instead of 1 shot in 4 seconds, you took 4 shots of 1 second each - then at each turn it will be only 1 degree, i.e. "blur" will be 4 times less.

Your device works according to this principle - it takes several pictures, on each of which the device “does not have time” to move and “blur” the image, and then combines all the pictures together - summing them up.

The use of this technology also allows you to deal with noise. After all, "noise" is randomly occurring random colored dots in the picture. Accordingly, if there is such a point in one image, but it is absent in the rest, then this is “noise”, and it can be accurately cut off.

Conclusion: “night shooting without a tripod” is a useful feature, if used skillfully.

Test shots

Test shots are the best way to show you whether the chosen camera is worth buying.

It is better to take test shots on your flash card (after agreeing with the seller in advance). The pictures should have "difficult" conditions - differences in illumination in one frame, sharp boundaries of black and white (you can at least remove the inscriptions on the price tag), small objects (for example, remove a banknote, or price tags in the distance).

The pictures taken are best viewed at home on a computer at high magnification. If this is not possible, select the viewing mode right in the store and select the maximum magnification. You should be alerted by colored stripes on the border of black and white, unreadable inscriptions on price tags, and color ripples when shooting solid objects.

When shooting test, do not forget to set the white balance correctly: in the store it should be the mode for fluorescent lamps.

Battery life

Manufacturers often indicate the time in the number of photographs. This is a rather crafty value, which can mean anything.
Most likely, this refers to the number of shots that can be taken without stopping under normal conditions without switching on and off, with the display off. Don't fall for this trick!

In compact models, when turned on, energy is spent on “pulling out” the lens, when turned off, on “pushing” the lens back into the body of the device. Energy is spent on the operation of the display. You will most likely want to choose the most suitable angle, which will significantly increase the average time spent on one photo.

Also, the processor consumes a lot of energy when processing the image - therefore, for example, when night shooting one photo takes much more energy than during the day.

Please note that quite a lot of energy is spent on the operation of the liquid crystal display. And in the characteristics of battery life, manufacturers often indicate the operating time with the screen off for advertising purposes.

Conclusion: pay attention to the battery life with the LCD screen on.

Flash card

Flash cards of different formats today differ only in data transfer speed. For an amateur who does not make large series (when several frames are shot per second), speed is not important.

Only the cost of flash cards of various formats differs. Choose the one that suits you in terms of volume and cost.

Please note that the flash drive (USB-drive) that we use to exchange files and the flash card for the camera are completely different things!

Conclusion: we are interested in the cost of replaceable flash-cards.

Data interface

Today, cameras are usually connected to a computer via a USB cable, and are seen as an external camera. HDD. However, it may be possible to connect an audio-video cable to connect, for example, to older TVs for viewing.

To rewrite to a computer, only a USB interface is needed (USB-2, USB-3 - the larger the number, the higher the speed).

The Wi-Fi interface allows you to connect to the camera remotely, without a cable. This is convenient if you need to output a picture directly to a printer with a Wi-Fi interface.

Wi-Fi is convenient if you need to immediately transfer the picture taken by the photographer to the Internet. The photographer is not distracted by rewriting photos, but continues to shoot, and his partner with a laptop himself looks for the right pictures right on the camera and can continue to publish them without waiting for the end of the event.

Wi-Fi is handy if there is a danger that your flash card will be confiscated. You can set up the transfer of pictures, for example, to your partner's smartphone. The photographer then shoots the event and all the pictures are automatically transferred to the other person's smartphone. When the guard detains the photographer, he calmly gives her a flash card, because the pictures are already in another place.

Some cameras allow you to control them remotely via Wi-Fi. For example, to shoot a landscape on a cold night: you put the camera on a tripod, and you yourself get into a warm car and take a number of pictures in the warmth until the quality suits you.

Automatic sensor cleaning

One of the problems of any camera is the ingress of dust into the body. Settling on the matrix, dust degrades the image quality. Usually, dust is removed by manual cleaning - more often by blowing with a special syringe. But there are cameras with a special dust cleaning function. When this function is enabled, the matrix begins to shake, and as a result, the dust that has settled on it falls off - the matrix becomes clean without disassembling the camera.

Conclusion: a useful feature. You can do without it, but its presence does not hurt.

Webcam mode

Indicates that there is an interface that allows you to use the camera as a webcam.
In simpler terms, control the camera from a computer (using special programs), or maybe power the camera via a USB cable.

Most often, a webcam is used to show a view from a window over the Internet :-)
Whether this is necessary is up to you.

Ease of use and management

You buy a camera, first of all, for yourself. Therefore, check whether it is convenient for you to hold it, press the buttons, use the menu, select modes.
Everyone's hands and fingers are different, so there is no one size fits all design.

If you choose a device for everyday use, consider whether it will be comfortable for you to wear it. Hold the device in your hands. Large devices look "more solid", but what's the point of having a "large" device and leaving it at home because it is heavy and "does not fit anywhere". It is better to take one that can always be with you.

And most importantly, if the purpose of the device is to always be with you, make sure that it is comfortable to wear. Maybe you should refuse to buy a large device and buy a small one, albeit of worse quality? After all, a simple device, which is always at hand, is more useful than a fancy device that “stayed at home”.

Access to the features you want

It is also very important how convenient it is to access the functions that are important to you.

Look - are there special buttons for them on the device panel, or are they hidden in the menu?
For example, when shooting, the light often changes, and you need to adjust the white balance. How to do it? Do I need to go into the settings menu, or is there a special button on the case?
Or do you like to take a lot of pictures in a row, and then just delete unnecessary ones. How to delete a snapshot? Is there a special button on the case, or do you need to rummage through the settings?

It's like control panels. All of them perform the same functions, but some are pleasant to take in hand, while others are not; some are easy to manage, while others are inconvenient to access the desired function ...

Conclusion: to evaluate the convenience of the interface, try to find the functions that you will often use.

How to check the matrix - an important note

The main defect of the matrix, which is not officially considered a defect, is the presence of “broken pixels”: these are points at which not what you shoot is reproduced, but a constant color (for example, in all pictures one point will be white or black). The Consumer Rights Protection Act allows up to 3 such dots on the matrix. This means that if you find such a marriage at home, you will not be able to exchange your camera. But if you find this marriage before the purchase, you have the right to ask for another camera.

How to check? To begin with, “warm up the matrix” - take several shots in a row, and then shoot an absolutely black background, or an absolutely white one (either with a closed lens, or with an open lens aimed at a white wall or sheet; some devices do not allow this when automatic adjustment is turned on, if the device does not want to shoot - switch to manual mode).

Then go to the view mode, zoom in to the maximum and, sequentially moving across the entire field of the image, check whether white dots are visible on a black background. Then check if black dots are visible on a white background. If there is such a point, ask for another camera, and do not succumb to the seller’s persuasion that “all devices are like that”, that “this is allowed technical standards”, because that is why you check the device before buying.

By the way, professional models have the ability to correct “broken pixels” using special computer programs. Simply put, the camera program is changed, and instead of a “defective pixel”, it records averaged data from neighboring pixels. When viewing photos from such a device, "substitution" is not visible. But such an adjustment can only be made by cameras where this possibility is provided by the manufacturer.

The choice of camera depends on the tasks that you set for it.

The main thing is that it is convenient for you to work with it, and carry it with you.

I hope I have clarified a little the questions that I am often asked: why devices with the same resolution, the same zoom characteristics, and almost identical functions can cost $ 200, or maybe $ 2000. And why a device with a lower number of megapixels has image quality is higher than that of a higher resolution.

Finally, I will add: the photos are taken not by the camera, but by the photographer.

The camera is just a tool that will be completely useless in inept hands. Mastery comes from experience, so try, experiment, fail and take risks.

I wish you success!

Article last updated - Spring 2017.

See also: How to choose a digital video camera > The copyright for this article belongs to Nikolai Kalashnikov. If you see an article on another site repeating word for word what is written here, you should know that the authors of the site stole it from me. If you see an article on another site that repeats the meaning and chronology of my article, but with the replacement of some words, you should know that this article was also stolen from me. (I know of at least a dozen such sites; they even sent me a few scanned magazines that reprinted my article on behalf of another author.) I try to update the article about once every half a year: new technologies, new parameters appear - all this requires updating the information. From the archive. Technique I use

The main points when choosing a digital compact camera

Matrix
One of the main, and expensive parts of the camera. In principle, the larger the matrix, the better. But the number of pixels should not be decisive when choosing a digital camera. 12-15 megapixels will be enough to print a 40×30 cm photo or admire it on a big TV screen. Three million pixels is enough to print a 10x15 photo. By the way, the physical dimensions of photos can be different: 4x3, or 10x15.

The matrix size is indicated in inches: 1/2.5 - corresponds to 5.76 × 4.29 mm, 1/1.8 - 7.176 × 5.319 mm. Of course, the second option would be preferable. Too many pixels should alert - as a rule, the more pixels, the smaller they are, and less light will fall on each pixel - hence the noise. A more important factor when choosing a compact digital camera is light sensitivity. That is, which camera has a better picture in low light, that one should be chosen.

You can check this in the same way as a video camera: take a friend with a flash card, come to the store, be sure to set the same parameters on the cameras (minimum, maximum, and medium ISO are better), and take several identical frames. Then at home in a relaxed atmosphere, analyze and compare. Sometimes the number of sensitive elements (pixels) does not match the number of pixels in the resulting image, pay attention to this. Or look for product specifications on the Internet.

Lens
Probably in second place in importance, after the matrix. Lenses on cheap cameras are made of plastic. The main parameters when choosing: magnification, aperture and focal length. It is not worth chasing a large increase, 5-7 times is enough. The more zooms, the more shaking, and the photos will turn out blurry. If you choose a camera with a stabilizer, you can increase it even more, practice will show. It's always better to get close to your subject than to zoom in. The increase is naturally optical, forget about digital.

Aperture is indicated by the letter F, for example: F-3.5. The lower the number, the better. Today 3.5 is normal, if you find 2.8 it's great. The aperture value is written around the lens, for example: 3.1 x 6.3. These numbers mean the value of aperture at wide angle and maximum approximation.

Focal length is the angle that the camera covers. The smaller the first number, the wider the viewing angle will be, that is, more people will enter the frame when shooting in a cramped apartment. And the larger the second digit, the closer you can see the object, that is, the more zooms. It looks something like this: 24 - 288 mm, this is marked "35 mm equivalent". If there are manual settings for shutter speed and aperture, that's good.

Card
What the photograph is recorded on. Main types of memory cards: Secure Digital, Compact Flash, Memory Stick. I would advise SD (Secure Digital). The best value for money. In addition, when changing the camera, these cards are likely to fit the new model. An important factor is the possibility of using large-capacity cards in the camera. It is better to immediately buy a capacious card, and shoot without restrictions.

Also, for a card, an important indicator is the recording speed, at a low speed you will not be able to shoot a series of frames (and even more so - a video). By the way, the burst shooting function should be present. Not bad, if the camera has built-in memory, there will always be a reserve.

Viewfinder and screen
It depends on how you will see the subject. In most cases, you will use the screen, but on a bright sunny day, the information on it may not be visible, and the viewfinder will help out here. Almost always, when shooting, autofocus is used, so the viewfinder is needed only for visual control of the scene being shot. The presence of a rotary or folding screen makes it very easy to shoot. It is necessary that the display shows all the shooting parameters - this will be useful for subsequent analysis.

Flash
All digital cameras have built-in flashes. There is only one criterion for selection: the more powerful the flash, the better. This data must be specified in the technical characteristics of the camera. It is advisable to choose a camera with the possibility of forced flash, and not just automatic. For example, if you shoot a person standing in front of a window, then the light hitting the sensor will show that there is enough light, but the person's face will be dark. That's why you need the ability to independently turn on the flash.

If there is a red-eye reduction mode - this is good, you do not need to spend money on removing this defect in photo salons. More advanced models have a socket for connecting an external flash, but at the first stage you will not need it. A good flash costs more than your camera.

Batteries or accumulators
Batteries are finger-type (such as batteries), and rectangular (branded), it all depends on their capacity. The larger the capacity, the longer the photography will last. The only difference is that finger-type accumulators You can use it in other devices, and you can buy a charger for them without problems, but branded batteries other than your camera will not fit anything else. Speaking of chargers: the slower they charge, the better. Batteries will last for more cycles.

Camera video function
I have always said: filming with a camera is a perversion. That's what a video camera is for. Even the cheapest camcorder shoots better than the most expensive (amateur) camera. I mean not only technical parameters, but also the convenience of shooting, and the availability necessary functions. All this is absent in the camera, although the picture on the display can be kind of good. Most likely, this function will be present on your camera, when you try to record a video, you will understand that the video is, let's say, not very good. Although in extreme cases it can come in handy. You can read more on this topic on the page "Video shooting with a camera".

If it is important for you that the video function is present, then pay attention to the resolution, most often in digital cameras it is not higher than 1280 by 720, and the number of frames per second, which rarely exceeds 30. If you choose a camera with a video function, then must have an image stabilizer. The stabilizer is either in the lens or in the body, but in principle - if only there was.

When you make your choice, you should definitely check the camera before buying. There should be no scratches on the case, all buttons should be pressed well and not stick anywhere, there should be no bubbles or dust particles in the lenses. You won't be able to test all the camera's functions in the store, so shoot as much as you can at first, and in different modes. If there is a factory defect in the camera, then within 14 days you can simply return the camera to the store and collect the money, if the defect is found later - you will have to return it for repair.

When choosing a camera, do not rush, so that later it will not be excruciatingly painful from wasted money. The same camera for women and male hand will be different, it will be convenient for someone to shoot, but not for someone. Remember, a hasty choice, because tomorrow is your birthday, will not lead to anything good, because you buy a camera more than once. And the right choice is a guarantee that you will be satisfied with the purchase, and the process of photographing will bring a lot positive emotions because photography is an opportunity to save a moment for centuries.

If the question of choice is serious for you, and you want to know not only how to choose a camera and which one is better, but also to understand lens markings, purposes and the correct use of various camera functions, then on the "Ask a question" page you can order training in video format . This video course provides answers to all the questions that a novice photographer has: what is white balance, depth of field, histogram and exposure. The structure of cameras, types of matrices. Tips for choosing a lens, camera settings and caring for it. And more, much, much more... Fill out the form, and after payment (500 rubles) I will send you a link to download the archive (224 Mb).

And most importantly: The photographer makes a good photo, and the camera is just a tool that helps him in this.

When buying, you need to ask the seller for a discount using the club card number - 0026. More information about the assortment can be found on the website www.intel-foto.ru

© 2017 site

Have you decided to buy a digital camera? Let me congratulate you. This is one of the best ways to punch a gaping hole in the family budget. It is most likely useless to dissuade you, so I will simply tell you how to choose a digital camera so that this choice causes you minimal financial and psychological damage.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to give unambiguous, universal recommendations for choosing a camera for an abstract novice photographer, since the needs of all photographers are different. Different photographic tasks require different equipment. A camera that suits me perfectly may not be right for you. Despite this, I will still try to highlight here specific models of digital cameras that, in my opinion, meet the requirements of the widest range of photographers.

What you should pay attention to

Marketers do not get tired of brainwashing naive amateur photographers with those camera parameters that can be easily measured numerically (resolution, ISO, zoom ratio, etc.), although they just say very little about the suitability of the camera for real shooting outside the walls of a photo store.

The resolution of a camera (more precisely, its matrix) is measured in megapixels (Mp), i.e. in the number of dots that make up the camera's matrix, and hence the images obtained with it. To date, the resolution digital cameras exceeds the capabilities of their lenses, and, much sadder, far exceeds the capabilities of most photographers shooting with these cameras. Ten megapixels is enough for anyone, and today it is difficult to find a camera with a lower resolution. Instead of resolution, pay more attention to the physical size of the matrix - the larger the size (i.e., the smaller the crop factor of the matrix), the better. Other things being equal, a larger sensor is more sensitive to light, has a greater dynamic range, and is less noisy.

ISO is a standard for the sensitivity of photographic material (in our case, a digital matrix) to light. The maximum ISO value indirectly characterizes the camera's ability to shoot in low light conditions, but we should not forget that increasing the sensitivity inevitably leads to noise. What is the use of the manufacturer's declared maximum value of ISO 102400 if it cannot be used in practice, since the image will be a solid red and blue mess? Compact cameras with small sensors always behave horribly at high ISOs. SLR cameras look much better, but also require sanity.

Zoom ratio is simply the ratio between the maximum and minimum focal lengths of a zoom lens. For example, a lens with a focal length of 18-55 mm is essentially a 3x zoom (55 ÷ 18 ≈ 3), although the concept of a zoom factor is more often used in relation to fixed lenses of compact cameras. Taken regardless of the focal length, the zoom ratio has no meaning and certainly should not serve as a criterion when choosing a camera or lens, and here's why: firstly, it says nothing about specific focal lengths. For example, two completely different lenses can turn out to be equally 5x zooms: 24-120 mm and 80-400 mm. Secondly, you have to pay for versatility with quality - 30x ultrazooms physically cannot provide decent sharpness, and their aperture ratio is not high; and therefore do not chase zoom lenses with exorbitant multiplicity. A convenient set of focal lengths is much more important than the zoom factor. To compare lenses, it is appropriate to use the concept of equivalent focal length, because it allows you to take into account the difference in the size of the sensors of different cameras.

Digital zoom is not only useless, but even somewhat harmful. Having nothing to do with optics, digital zoom simply stretches part of the image through the camera software, which creates the illusion of zooming in, but leads to a noticeable loss in quality. Similarly, you can enlarge the image in Photoshop.

The most important and most stubbornly ignored parameter when choosing a camera by sellers is ergonomics - how comfortable the camera fits in the hand, how quickly it allows you to respond to changing shooting conditions, how thoughtful the management of the most important settings is and whether menu navigation takes too much time. Convenience is an individual matter. You can finally make sure that a particular camera is right for you only by picking it up.

Some parameters just need to be able to interpret. For example, heavy weight is not a virtue in itself, but it can indirectly indicate the mechanical strength and reliability of the camera, and a high burst shooting speed almost always indicates that the camera is suitable for reportage work.

And one more important tip: never listen to consultants in photo equipment stores. Their goal is to sell you a camera, and preferably at a higher price, not to improve your photographs. Only a practicing photographer can know which camera is really good and which is not.

More detailed information about what criteria should be followed when choosing a digital camera and optics for it, you can learn from the following articles: "What is a professional camera", "Camera options" and "Lens selection criteria". About what else, besides the camera, an amateur photographer will have to acquire, is described in the article “Starting kit for photographic equipment”.

SLR cameras

Nikon FX

Nikon currently releases five full-frame models: D610, D750, Df, D810 and D5. Camera sales around the world are now falling, and if you decide to buy digital camera, Nikon will definitely prefer this camera to be full-frame - simply because it is more expensive.

Of course, we are all very sad that the poor Japanese capitalists are suffering losses, but do you really need a full frame? The difference in image quality between DX and FX devices is minimal today, and is mainly manifested by a slightly lower level of FX noise at high ISO values.

Canon APS-C

Canon APS-C cameras have a 1.6 crop factor sensor, i.e. slightly smaller than the Nikon DX. Canon cameras are better suited for shooting video, and this is a reason to take a closer look at them if you are interested in video shooting. I myself am skeptical about shooting video on a SLR camera, but you are entitled to your own opinion.

Canon has seven current models APS-C format: 4000D, 2000D, 200D, 800D, 77D, 80D and 7D Mark II.

4000D, 2000D, 200D and 800D are amateur cameras. The Canon EOS 2000D is a great camera for a beginner photographer - small, light and not too expensive. Canon EOS 200D is even more compact, but in this regard, it has only a minimum of external controls, which, however, is partly offset by the presence of a touch screen. Canon EOS 800D is a slightly more advanced, but still amateur model. The Canon EOS 4000D is a cut down (not to say worse) version of the 2000D.

Canon Full Frame

Today Canon releases four full-frame models: 6D Mark II, 5D Mark IV, 5Ds and 1D X Mark II. The Canon EOS 1D C doesn't count because it's designed for video, not photography.

Compact cameras

No compact camera can match a DSLR in speed of operation, and few can match in image quality, but when a camera is required to fit in a pocket, DSLRs are completely unacceptable because of their size.

Obviously, if you only need compactness, without regard to image quality and ergonomics, then the camera built into a mobile phone may well replace a real camera. Another thing is that even the simplest soap dish is still more convenient to shoot than the most advanced smartphone.

By the simplest soap dish, I mean something like Nikon Coolpix A10. This ultra-budget camera costs $150, has a 1/2.3" sensor (crop factor 6), a good universal zoom lens and shoots much better than most phones, and besides, it runs on standard AA batteries, which helps a lot on trips.

The problem is that if a person is satisfied with the quality of the image obtained using a 1 / 2.3 "matrix (well, or 1 / 1.7" for more expensive soap dishes), then in most cases he will be satisfied with the quality that the matrix produces mobile phone- for social networks any rubbish will do. As for ease of use, a rare smartphone owner will agree to pay extra for separate device with real buttons. He is accustomed to the touch screen and does not know that in some situations the archaic buttons are much more convenient.

However, fans of extreme recreation and tourism may like one of the protected compacts, say, Olympus Tough TG-5 for $ 500, which has a waterproof shock-resistant case, built-in GPS receiver and thermometer, as well as a small 1 / 2.3-format matrix.

I don’t recommend advanced ultrazoom compacts to anyone for the reason that their matrices are still tiny, but in terms of size and price, ultrazooms come close to budget DSLRs. It is possible that I do not understand something, but, in my opinion, if the camera looks and costs like a DSLR, but shoots like a cheap soap dish, then this is a bad camera and you should not buy it.

More expensive compact cameras with large matrices stand apart. The idea of ​​such cameras is to get the maximum image quality with the minimum size of the device.

Editors' Choice - Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II for $650, equipped with a 1" sensor (crop factor 2.7) and a zoom lens with an equivalent focal length of 24-100 mm at f / 1.8-2.8 aperture. Why exactly 1"? After all, there are compact cameras and a larger format, up to full-frame ones? That's how it is, but more and more serious compacts have dimensions that no longer allow us to consider them truly compact. And if the camera ceases to fit in your pocket, is it not better to buy a real SLR instead of it for less money and enjoy life? At the same time, the G7 X and other similar cameras provide image quality quite comparable to DSLRs, but at the same time, they practically do not differ in size from ordinary point-and-shoot cameras.

Mirrorless cameras

In principle, it is difficult for me to recommend one of the mirrorless systems to a novice photographer. Their functional advantages even over the simplest SLR cameras are not quite obvious, and the price of mirrorless cameras is still quite high. A person who switches to a mirrorless system should do this consciously and be well aware of what he is losing and what he is gaining. A classic DSLR always has a better price/performance ratio than a similar class mirrorless camera. The only unconditional advantage of mirrorless cameras is their relative lightness and compactness, for which you actually pay an additional premium.

If you have come to this life, then I would advise you to choose between the Olympus Micro 4/3, Fujifilm X, Sony α and maybe Canon EOS M systems. The Olympus system has the most thoughtful ergonomics and a wonderful variety of lenses, but the Olympus sensor is small (crop factor 2). Sony has both cropped and full frame models, but the choice of lenses leaves a lot to be desired. Fuji System - golden mean. The Canon EOS M system is hardly mature, but Canon mirrorless cameras are compatible (with an adapter) with lenses for EF and EF-S SLR cameras. Mirrorless cameras from other manufacturers are nothing more than compacts with interchangeable lenses and an enlarged matrix. For serious photography, they are of little use.

Thank you for your attention!

Vasily A.

post scriptum

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Today, cameras are on the market in a wide range. But nevertheless, for the most part, people are not aware of what criteria should be used to choose such a technique. Many casually heard the terms "matrix", "megapixels", but what they are talking about is not clear.

Sellers skillfully take advantage of the inexperience of buyers in matters of choice and impose cameras at fabulously high prices with many unnecessary functions to ordinary photography lovers. How not to fall for the tricks of trade workers? How to choose a good quality camera?

First of all, you should proceed from your financial capabilities and the level at which you own photography. Accordingly, the higher the price of a particular model, the greater the functional potential it has. But for beginners, it is better to buy a simpler device.

After all, it is not a fact that the passion for photography will not burn out in a month or two. Therefore, the most important question before buying should be the following: why do you need a camera? For what purpose? Only after receiving objective answers, you can proceed to the search for an answer to the main question, how to choose a camera.

The camera for the amateur will satisfy his needs with simple and, at first glance, high-quality pictures. The main thing is that they are clear. A professional photographer will prefer a model with the latest "bells and whistles" to improve, systematize image quality.

Most of the cameras produced today are digital. They can be divided into two groups.

1. Automatic with a minimum number of various settings.
2. Mirror, the use of which requires knowledge of all the subtleties of the process.

In the absence of photographic skills, it is worth giving preference to the most automated camera. A camera with changing optics will be mastered by a professional.

But which device is better to choose? Compact digital camera or SLR? Semi-professional or for real pros? A brief overview of the characteristics of cameras will help you make the right choice.

The main difference between SLR cameras and other devices is the ability to use removable lenses. Thus, the camera includes two parts - the skeleton (or "carcass") and mobile optics. Such a device gives a very high image quality, even if the visibility conditions leave much to be desired.

But how to choose the right SLR camera? needs to be considered several important criteria.

• It is important to focus on the year of manufacture of the model. The latest cameras are more advanced, but they become obsolete a couple of months after they first hit the market. This does not apply to rarities that have no age limits. It is better to give preference to the latest digital technology. With them it will be easier in terms of repair and purchase of accessories.
• Megapixels, namely - their number. Although professionals call this indicator insignificant, however, this criterion plays a paramount role in large-format printing.
• Weight and size are not important for a beginner photographer or for rare shootings. However, if a person is used to not letting go of the device throughout the day, it is better to choose a more compact camera.
• Availability of video. Some people buy a DSLR to shoot video. But not all devices come with a microphone. Therefore, when buying a camera, you need to ask the seller about the availability of a recording device.
• Zoom. If you have a conventional compact ultrazoom, working with a SLR camera can cause certain difficulties, since the standard zoom in it is three times.
• What frame: full or cropped. The first price is several times higher. Therefore, if you have extra money, the choice should be made in their favor. If there is no finance, then the second option will also fit.
• An equally important criterion for choosing a SLR camera should be the company that released it. The top rated companies are Nikon, Canon and Sony. It is their models that should be given preference. But if the budget is limited, you can pay attention to other less well-known manufacturers. Pentax, Olympus and Samsung have proven themselves well. Canon is considered the main leader.

Having selected a model in accordance with the above criteria, it will not be superfluous to test it in work. You can take a few pictures in the store itself before buying. Sometimes the quality of a super-sophisticated DSLR is worse than that of a device that is a standard inexpensive “soap box”.

After getting an answer to the question of how to choose a SLR camera, the next step is to buy a lens for it.

It is most difficult for a novice photographer to decide on the question of how to choose a lens for a camera. It's clear that modern lens, which will meet all the parameters, has not yet been invented. However, there is a more balanced model called Kit.

It turned out to be a good device that meets the following parameters:

• good lens;
• cheap;
• universal.

In the future, you can purchase more advanced lenses for cameras. But for a beginner, Kit will be just right.

In addition to the lens, flash plays an important role in a SLR camera. How to choose a flash for shooting? Which one to give preference? Here you need to act consistently, making a selection according to several criteria.

• Power, measured by the distance within which an image can be taken High Quality.
• Auto zoom. It will allow you to change the distance to the object, while maintaining light and focus.
• A flash with a maximum battery recycling rate is suitable for those who are engaged in reportage photography.
• For different lighting effects, choose a flash with a rotary head.
• If the budget is limited, then it is better to buy a semi-professional flash than a low-quality cheap analogue.

Almost all modern cameras are digital. They differ in a set of functions and quality of parts. Such a variety sometimes confuses the buyer, especially if he is not quite a pro in this industry. How to choose a digital camera to be more professional?

It is believed that the best brand on the market that produces cameras for professionals is Canon. A Canon camera, whether professional or semi-professional, will be stocked with accessories from the same brand.

Such devices are quite expensive, so when buying, you should give preference to high-quality equipment with good optics and lenses.

How to choose a memory card for the camera?

Before you buy a memory card, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of the camera and find out what type of memory is suitable for it. Information can also be found on the Internet. In addition to memory information, you need to clarify information about the size of the flash card that your tool will “pull”.

If the question of which flash drive manufacturer to prefer is not relevant for you, then it is better not to contact companies that you have not heard anything about. The leaders in the production of memory cards are Transcend, SanDisk, Kingston.

If you are offered a memory card for free when buying a camera, then know that this is a marketing move by the seller. Well, if the card just turns out to be defective and does not harm the device. Remember that a quality memory card cannot be cheap.

If you need a large amount of memory, then do not put it in one flash drive. Buy two cards with equal volume. You will insure yourself if suddenly one carrier stops working.

Before paying money to the cashier of the store, check the card for serviceability. If everything works, then you can safely make a purchase.

How to choose a tripod for your camera?

Most of the owners of cameras dream of buying a tripod, the function of which is to hold the camera in a fixed position. But how to choose a compact and at the same time reliable tripod? For this you need to know main characteristics of the device.

• working height- is defined as the distance from the surface of the site, which is in contact with the tripod, to the camera. Height is minimum and maximum. It is better if the maximum height is greater than the height of the photographer.
• Tripod size and weight. These indicators should be such that when shooting, the weight of the camera does not affect the support and does not break it. Nevertheless, compact tripod models should be preferred, as they are more convenient to carry in your hands.
• Accessories. Many tripods come with a complete set of accessories. But professionals prefer to buy various items separately. This is a more expensive purchase option, but also of better quality.
• Case- useful on a long journey or on a journey. It will protect the tripod from bad weather.

TOP 5 best SLR cameras

The number of lovers of high-quality photographs and digital devices is constantly growing. However, it is not always easy to choose the optimal model, especially if a person is poorly versed in this. We offer short review 5 best SLR cameras for every taste and budget.

The best model for a beginner photographer who has a limited budget, but wants to buy a compact SLR camera with a maximum number of functions for a fairly small amount of money.

Pros:

• low price of the device itself;
• low cost of lenses for the device;
• Full HD video recording;
• compactness;
• great flash;
• long battery life (up to 700 photos);
• matrix 24.7 MP (APS-C).

Minuses:

• LCD screen built into the body;
• strong digital noise is possible;
• too few shooting modes.

average cost- 33600 rubles.

This model is for experienced amateur photographers who make rather high demands on the camera. Reviews about the camera are generally positive, buyers are only embarrassed by the high cost of the device. But more about everything.

Pros:

• high image quality;
• good flash;
• good rate of fire (6 frames per second);
• clear LCD screen;
• quality assembly;
• convenient viewfinder;
• accurate autofocus;
• long battery life.

Minuses:

• no wireless modules;
• overcharge;
• built-in LCD screen.

average cost- 56,000 rubles.

A very good, but also quite expensive model, released by a Japanese company. Suitable for advanced users who want to get professional photos without spending extra effort.

Pros:

• high-quality and clear pictures;
• 3 user modes;
• good rate of fire (12 shots per second);
• good image stabilizer;
• electronic viewfinder;
• there is wi-fi;
• tracking focus;
• the ability to select the focus mode;
• rotating LCD screen.

Minuses:

• high cost;
• short battery life;
• the red-eye reduction function works slowly.

average cost- 68300 rubles.

The perfect sharpness and clarity of the resulting images - this is perhaps the main review of this great camera. However, the advantages of the device are not limited to this. There is a fly in the ointment in this "celebration of life" - the high price of the device itself and the lenses for it.

Pros:

• amazing sharpness;
• high resolution photos;
• hybrid autofocus;
• 37 megapixels under the body;
• there is a second display;
• weatherproof housing;
• long battery life (up to 1200 shots);
• great working flash.

Minuses:

• insufficient rate of fire (only 5 photos per second);
• built-in LCD screen;
• the high cost of the device and lenses to it.

average cost- 200,000 rubles.

One of the best professional cameras currently available. It has excellent characteristics, but at the same time it is distinguished by high cost and high weight. Judging by the reviews, buyers are ready to turn a blind eye to such shortcomings.

Pros:

• no digital noise;
• very good and accurate autofocus performance;
• the presence of a second screen;
• high rate of fire (14 frames per second);
• long battery life (for 1200 shots);
• metal durable case;
• excellent video quality;
• built-in GPS receiver.

Minuses:

• low resolution matrix;
• high cost;
• heavy model;
• no wifi.

average cost- 378,000 rubles.

There are a lot of criteria by which you need to choose cameras. A person who is ignorant in this area can get confused. That is why it is better for a beginner to purchase an inexpensive model for the first time. Over time, experience and knowledge in the field of photography will become wider, and then the question of how to choose a camera will no longer cause difficulties.

The topic of choosing a camera, probably, has always been and will be relevant. Time passes, technology changes, old materials written on this topic become hopelessly outdated. The general principles remain unchanged, but a huge number of nuances makes us look at the problem of choice differently. Purpose of the article What is the best camera- dot the i's in the matter of buying a digital camera, given the current market situation. The article is primarily aimed at beginner amateur photographers, but I'm sure the article will be useful for experienced users as well.

Where to start choosing the "best" camera?

First of all, you must determine the range of tasks for which the camera will be used. Tasks can be completely different and you need to come to terms with the fact that there is simply no absolutely universal camera. There are only cameras that are suitable for solving certain tasks or not suitable. For example, to go on a picnic with friends it is absolutely not necessary to bring a professional DSLR there (although there are enthusiasts), an inexpensive soap dish or even a smartphone is quite enough - after all, photos from such events, as a rule, do not go beyond social networks and home photo albums. In this case the best camera there will be one that is always at hand.

For professional purposes, the requirements for technique vary considerably depending on the genre of shooting. To shoot a reportage, you need a high burst speed and the ability to take pictures handheld in low light, for a landscape - maximum clarity and depth of colors, for a portrait - high-quality reproduction of skin color and the ability to get a beautiful background blur, for macro photography - the ability to focus on very close object, and so on. Naturally, all these possibilities cannot be realized in one camera with a single lens. So the choice the best option cameras are always a compromise between the capabilities of technology, its size, ease of use and price.

Classes of digital cameras

One of the main criteria by which cameras are divided into different classes is physical size of the matrix. It is not measured in megapixels, but in millimeters (or inches). It is this parameter that has a decisive influence on the quality of photographs - color reproduction, noise level, dynamic range. Traditionally, it was believed that for DSLRs and mirrorless cameras a large matrix is ​​good, for soap dishes a small matrix is ​​bad. Now this division is very conditional, since many compact cameras have matrices comparable in size to amateur DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.

Conventionally, digital cameras can be divided into several classes.

Cameras in smartphones

In recent years, a steady trend has been observed on the market - smartphones are slowly but surely replacing compact cameras. And there are good reasons for this:

• Smartphone always at hand
• The photo quality of most smartphones is sufficient for printing in a small format (for those who are used to it) and posting photos on social networks
• Built-in photo processing capabilities eliminate the need for a graphics editor on a PC
• Photos do not have to be printed - they are quite convenient to view on a smartphone
• The issue of saving photos is solved by connecting cloud storage
• It is convenient to share photos - via the Internet and via bluetooth

If you are going to take photos "for home, for family, for friends", the best choice is a smartphone with a good camera, and this is no joke! The only drawback of the smartphone is the lack of zoom, although there are models with two lenses - one for wide shots, the other for close-ups. Such devices are more expensive, but they successfully solve 99% of the tasks of amateur photography.

Amateur compact entry-level cameras ("soap dishes")

Against the backdrop of the growth of smartphone capabilities, this class of cameras can be safely classified as endangered. The demand for them is kept "by inertia", but, I think, within a couple of years it will completely disappear. Camera manufacturers are well aware of this and are gradually curtailing the production of compacts. The only subclass that is still afloat is "superzooms". These are compact cameras with 10-20 or more times optical zoom. The only advantage of such cameras over smartphones is the ability to shoot close-ups of distant objects.

The topic of choosing a superzoom has been moved out (at the moment it is a bit outdated and needs to be reworked, however, you can understand the general principles). If we talk about the best manufacturer of soap dishes, then in this niche there is not much difference between them. Choose from Sony, Nikon, Panasonic, Canon, Olympus. The quality of the photos will be the same, the difference is only in appearance.

Some compact cameras entry level have a full set of manual settings. This is primarily aimed at those amateur photographers who want to learn how to take pictures, however, the value of manual settings for such cameras is often greatly exaggerated. The presence of a programmable exposure mode (P), as a rule, covers 99% of the needs of an amateur photographer-enthusiast - verified from our own experience.

If you want to do artistic photography, I strongly recommend not to mess with "small" cameras. The picture quality will be acceptable only outdoors in daylight. When lighting conditions deteriorate, the quality of photographs deteriorates rapidly. Photos from these devices are difficult to process in Photoshop, because even with minor manipulations with brightness, contrast, saturation, artifacts begin to appear - color distortion, increased noise level, "steps" on smooth color transitions.

Cameras for advanced amateurs

This niche is the most diverse, it contains at least three subgroups, in varying degrees, competing with each other in terms of their capabilities.

"Top soap dishes"

These are compact devices with an oversized matrix and non-replaceable optics. According to their declared characteristics, they seem to be inferior to entry-level amateur devices (see above) - they have fewer megapixels, the zoom ratio rarely exceeds 3-5 times, sometimes they have worse video capabilities, but they do their job more honestly and with better quality - and Namely, they provide better detail and color reproduction than devices elementary grade. All this is due to a larger matrix and a better lens.

Among the top compacts, in my opinion, Sony, Panasonic, Canon are the most successful.

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Another advantage of the "top" compacts (as well as all the groups listed below) is the ability to shoot in RAW format. What is RAW, we will briefly analyze a little later, but for now, just take my word for it - this is a very useful feature for which you can sacrifice the zoom ratio, rotary / touch screen, not to mention the "trendy chips" such as Wi-Fi, GPS, etc. .P.

"Top" compacts take excellent pictures during the day on the street, indoors with them you can also achieve acceptable photo quality. The merit of everything is a higher quality matrix of an increased size (from 2/3 "to 1") - the larger, the better, but also more expensive.

Almost all compacts of this class can shoot in RAW. The presence of the RAW format opens up great opportunities for stretching photos to an acceptable level of quality. The only limitation is that most devices in this niche are not able to provide beautiful and powerful background blur (bokeh) where it is needed (for example, in a portrait or when shooting close-ups). To "make bokeh" in photographs, you need a device with an even larger matrix and a fast lens. More detailed information about choosing an entry-level or advanced-level soap dish, see the article Best compact cameras

Mirrorless

Mirrorless - in fact, these are the same "top" compacts, only with interchangeable lenses. The main advantage of mirrorless cameras is their "consistency". This is a constructor in which the carcass acts as a base and you can hang a lot of interesting things on it - lenses, flash, video light, microphone, additional screen. Another question, this "interesting" costs extra money, and the cost of the kit can many times exceed the cost of the carcass :)

Modern mirrorless cameras have matrices ranging in size from 4/3 "(crop 2) to "full frame". Recently, even medium format system cameras have appeared. The cost of owning a system significantly correlates with the size of the sensor - the smaller the crop, the more expensive the optics. Sometimes noticeably more expensive!

If we talk about manufacturers, I would recommend first of all to look towards Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm. These manufacturers entered the "mirrorless" niche earlier than others and, in this regard, they have a wider choice of additional lenses and accessories than Canon and Nikon.

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A modern mirrorless camera is a fast, reliable and functional device that is not inferior in image quality and speed to SLR cameras (and in some ways even surpasses them) and at the same time is much lighter and more compact. The main disadvantage of most mirrorless cameras is that in the pursuit of compactness, many physical controls (buttons, wheels) are often replaced with software ones (menu items). Since the functionality of mirrorless cameras is very high, the menu becomes multi-level and complex - this makes life difficult for the photographer if you need to photograph something in non-standard conditions, when standard settings and presets cannot provide correct result. But this is more the exception than the rule. In my opinion, if you need a device "for every day", a mirrorless camera will be the most practical solution.

Having at my disposal a reflex Canon EOS 5D ("full frame") and mirrorless (Micro 4/3), I prefer the latter on most trips and light walks, as well as for amateur home shooting, and I can say that the technical quality of photographs of a modern mirrorless camera no worse than a 13-year-old full-frame "dinosaur".

SLR Cameras

SLRs- devices in which a shutter with a movable or fixed mirror is used, through which the picture that the lens sees is projected into the viewfinder. This design has an advanced age, however, it has very successfully taken root in digital.

DSLRs have not had any objective significant advantages over system cameras for a long time, however, due to a large number affordable DSLR optics are still in steady demand.

SLRs have taken root in the field of professional photography - for professional photographers, not only the number of functions of the camera is important, but also the ease of access to them (it's easier to press a button than to climb the menu every time!). And the autofocus of advanced DSLRs in difficult conditions works faster and more accurately than mirrorless ones. The main disadvantage of a DSLR is its size and weight, although some models are very compact and comparable in size to top compacts (for example, Canon ESO 100D). If this drawback is not critical, the purchase of a DSLR is fully justified, otherwise it is better to look towards mirrorless ones.

Among manufacturers of DSLRs, Canon and Nikon traditionally share the palm, I recommend considering these manufacturers first of all. Not because Sony and Pentax DSLRs are bad - not at all! The question is that over time you will want to buy a new lens for your camera. If you have a Canon or Nikon, you can buy a lens at any photo store (after finding out where it is cheaper) or second-hand on Avito. Sony has a worse situation - optics, in principle, are on sale, but the range is smaller and prices can be higher. Pentax - a separate song! The devices themselves are very interesting, but to find the right optics for them on sale, you need to try very hard.

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DSLRs are record holders for battery life, since the matrix "turns on" only at the moment the shutter is opened. For other classes of cameras, the matrix always works to transfer the picture to the screen. DSLRs also have a LiveView mode, in which the camera works like a "soap box" and shows the picture not in the viewfinder, but on the screen. At the same time, energy consumption increases accordingly.

If you try to look ahead, then in five years if SLR cameras do not disappear at all, then with 90% probability they will leave the amateur segment - they will be "taken out" by system cameras. The professional niche will also see a decline in the popularity of SLR cameras. It is not for nothing that the leading photo manufacturers have mobilized their forces to produce full-frame system cameras and optics for them!

In light of the above, I advise you to think carefully about the advisability of buying an advanced SLR camera for amateur use. In the secondary market, the demand for DSLRs has already noticeably decreased - used professional cameras are like new amateur ones, but no one buys them and is not even interested. And what will happen in a few years?

Cameras for enthusiastic amateurs and professionals

This niche is also very diverse. home salient feature these devices - the presence of some unique opportunities, for which people are willing to pay 2, 3 and even 10 times more than for middle-class equipment. Everyone has different requests - someone needs a full-frame sensor (mostly professional portraitists, landscape painters, wedding photographers), someone needs an image component (most often, wealthy people, for whom the main criterion in choosing is "so that the camera is pleasant to hold in hands" - it is for them that compact stylish "image" devices are created).

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Full-frame cameras provide the best image quality and are therefore very popular among professional photographers and photo-advanced amateurs. If earlier this niche was dominated by Canon and Nikon DSLRs, now mirrorless devices are beginning to penetrate it. Sony Alpha A7 is the first swallow, a full-frame mirrorless camera for a sane cost for a full frame. The "vintage" Leica is a fashion device "for the rich", however, it has a full-frame sensor and quite good photographic capabilities.

The screenshot was taken when the dollar cost 33 rubles :) Now the cost of such a Leica is from 600 thousand rubles. I will modestly keep silent about the practicality of such an acquisition, for the price of one Leica M carcass you can buy a professional Canon or Nikon DSLR with a professional lens (or even several).

If you are aiming for a full frame, keep in mind that its capabilities are fully realized only with high-quality optics, which can cost comparable to the camera, and sometimes much more. Buying a full frame for amateur home shooting is not the most practical investment. If you are a beginner, it is better to buy simpler equipment, and invest the difference in price in photography training. If you have photographic experience and the desire to improve yourself, a full-frame camera will be a great tool in your hands!

Added on 05/15/2018

Recently, one of the readers made a remark to me that I did not consider another category in this article. professional equipment- medium format cameras. I must say right away that I am a little far from this topic and have only superficial knowledge about this technique. Medium format cameras have a matrix on average 1.5 times larger than the "full frame", their own fleet of optics and additional equipment. The cost of a full-fledged set for shooting on a "medium format" can exceed the cost of a new foreign car, so it is no wonder that the demand for this technique even in the professional niche is small compared to the same full-frame DSLRs.

Shooting on a "medium format" is characterized by slowness, the use of slow shutter speeds and strongly (by "cropped" standards) clamped apertures. The reward for this will be images with tremendous detail (40-50 megapixels and more), ideal transmission of perspective (since 50 mm on a medium format is very wide angle lens), and if you want to blur the background, then you can do wonders here.

Conclusion. Which camera is right for whom?

So, it's time to draw a line under all of the above. Let's try to summarize the most typical options in a table. The options are "basic", depending on your preferences, they can be combined with each other. The table shows the approximate models of cameras that are suitable for this role. Sometimes I referred to entire families of cameras. I did not have a goal to list everything that fits - just designate a class of equipment, among which you need to look for options.

	What will you be photographing?	A good choice	A very good choice!
1	I like to take pictures of everything, I post pictures on Vkontakte. Artistic photography is not interested. I am loyal to quality.	Good smartphone :) Not necessarily an iPhone. Samsung and top Chinese smartphones have very good cameras!	Smartphone with 2 lenses - for general and close-ups.
2	I just want a camera. Moreover, one that is always at hand, shoots well on the machine, but so that you can indulge in manual settings. I love walking light. I want to learn photography!	Top compact with 1" matrix - Sony, Panasonic, Canon	An entry-level mirrorless camera often costs less than top-end compacts, in the standard configuration it can be inferior to top-end soap dishes, but it gives more growth opportunities - interchangeable lenses, an external flash, a microphone - all this can be purchased as needed. Sony, Panasonic, Canon, Fujifilm, Olympus
3	Camera for home, family, allowing you to take high-quality photos indoors and shoot video	Entry-level mirrorless with a kit lens and an additional "portrait" lens and an external flash (if there is a place to connect it)	Mid-range mirrorless camera with swivel screen, electronic viewfinder with "advanced" kit lens and additional "portrait" lens and external flash
4	Travel camera, mainly for landscape	For walking light close to home - a "top" soap dish or an amateur mirrorless camera with a whale lens	For long trips to beautiful places - a SLR or mirrorless camera with a set of optics from wide-angle to telephoto.
5	The camera as a means of production, mainly reportage	Semi-professional cropped or full-frame DSLR with semi-professional zoom lens (constant aperture 1:4.0) and external flash Canon EOS 80D, Nikon D7xxx	Professional full-frame DSLR with fast zoom lens (1:2.8) and external flash
6	Mainly artistic portrait photography	Semi-professional device (crop, full frame) with fast aperture, can be non-autofocus (via an adapter)	Full-frame camera with a professional high-aperture fix. If the money has nowhere to go, then the "medium format".
7	Wedding photo	Entry level - cropped camera (DSLR, mirrorless) with an "advanced" kit 18-135 mm, fast aperture for portraits, external flash	Full-frame camera with a set of lenses covering the range of 24-200 mm, with a constant aperture of 1: 2.8, a professional portrait fixed lens, an external flash, additional light, reflectors, an assistant who will carry it all :)
8	Photo hunting	Amateur level - cropped camera (DSLR, mirrorless) with a 250-300 mm telephoto lens	Professional level - a full-frame device with a fast telephoto lens of at least 400 mm, possibly also a teleconverter (extender).

On this, I think, we can finish. Good luck with your choice of camera and more good pictures!

About my help in choosing a camera

Until recently, I provided a consultation service on choosing a camera according to your criteria. Now I am her do not provide. In view of my busy schedule, I no longer have the opportunity to regularly get acquainted with the latest in the photo industry, attend presentations and exhibitions of new products. Therefore, the maximum that I can offer you is to look again at the table above, or send a link to Yandex.Market with a selection of cameras with characteristics that suit your tasks.