How to make a blade for a folding knife. DIY pocket knife

In the most simple models the blade is not locked in the open position: it will fold if you press it hard enough in the appropriate direction. This is how a classic pocket works penknife. In English literature, a knife equipped with a similar mechanism is called slip joint folder, or a folding knife with a sliding joint (more like a joint).

I could not find the corresponding Polish term. Well, okay, it doesn’t matter what it’s called scientifically; what matters is how it works. A spring, attached with one end to the upper edge of the handle, with its other end presses on the disc-shaped surface of the back of the blade. And this surface is designed in such a way that both opening and folding the knife causes the spring to bend or unbend; at the same time, it provides a certain resistance, which allows you to hold the knife either in the open or closed position (Fig. ). But if in the folded state the spring holds the blade quite reliably, then in the open position such a knife cannot be called one hundred percent safe. In practice, you have little to fear if you only use the knife for light, well-controlled cutting—for example, opening correspondence or sharpening pencils. Perhaps this is why such models are becoming a thing of the past; few of them are produced now. Even typical multifunctional pocket knives are now increasingly equipped with mechanisms that allow them to hold at least one, the largest (main) blade in the open position.

DIY folding knife. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife drawings. Friction folding knife. Author. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photographs of the step-by-step production of a friction-type folding knife. Master class It’s hard to call it a tutorial, a lot is missing. Friction folding knives common in countries where locking knives are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knife makers.

If, like me, we don’t know how to use Corel, we draw for a long time and tediously with our hands. cut out of cardboard - fold and unfold

The clutch has characteristic feature- a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the frame of the knife there is a locking pin into which the tail of the blade rests when unfolded, and a special recess in the blade when folded so that the edge of the blade does not touch the insides of the frame . Well then, to the point:

Making a blade requires a separate master class. The axle and sliding washers are from an unknown Chinese folding unit.

we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one in the other.

We cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a router

let's estimate the assembly once

From thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer into the back of the handle

we carefully consider this whole thing many times, we spit and swear

we attach the spacer to the dies, drill, insert pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush

We make bevels on the blade roughly, hardening and tempering, we remove bevels to zero + on the diamond on top, rough assembly

hand sanding, etching. The etching process is also missed because this needs to be done separately by MK.

We finally tighten the axial screw with cyanoacrylate fixation, roughly saw out the lining with a spare, and drill recesses for the axle heads.

glue one die, drill holes in the die through the frame for the stop pin, and pins in the backplate, similarly glue the second die and drill through the first in the right places, glue the pins, and grind them roughly.

glue in the locking pin, cut it off and grind the lining closer to the desired shape

in intimate places where it cannot be removed with a grinder (for example), we remove it with a Dremel.

you can matte all metal elements, although this is unnecessary

As you can see, at the beginning of the process I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding frame, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to do the etching process as a separate MK, because There are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, I didn’t have enough hands. Article taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some photos of the finished knife.

DIY folding knife. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife drawings. Friction folding knife. Author. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photographs of the step-by-step production of a friction-type folding knife. It’s hard to call it a master class or tutorial; a lot is missing. Friction folding knives are common in countries where knives with locking locks are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knife makers.

A true gourmet's journey through the home country of Meisel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin-starred chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoyard gastronomy written by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarel. There you will learn about the Savoy family and family, as well as modifications production processes and technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made during the workshops describing current production processes.

With a foreword by Pavel Baucus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any convenience store, sporting goods store or outfitter in the country and you will find several to choose from.

If, like me, we don’t know how to use Corel, we draw for a long time and tediously with our hands. cut out of cardboard - fold and unfold

The clutch has a characteristic feature - a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the frame of the knife there is a locking pin into which the tail of the blade rests when unfolded, and a special recess in the blade when folded so that the edge of the blade does not touched the inside of the frame. Well then, to the point:

With folding knives readily available and legal to carry in more places than a pistol, it's no surprise that everyone more people choose a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or to complement their regular concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. The folder market has some outstanding entries, but is also flooded with knives that are cheap, gimmicks, or simply not suitable for defensive use.

Can you open it with one hand?

If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self-defense options, these are the four things you need to look for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in a clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using the knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.

Making a blade requires a separate master class. The axle and sliding washers are from an unknown Chinese folding unit.

Does it have a secure locking mechanism?

The blade should lock open, without swinging in any direction. You won't be able to accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your switchblade to defend yourself, the adrenaline will pump through you. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, enormous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism fails to handle this, you may find yourself with the blade locked or locked on your fingers.

Is the blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed to penetrate. The purpose of a defensive jackknife is to cut and stab. Unless your blade gets a lot of use from hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile promotes penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, stabbing can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.

We cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a router

let's estimate the assembly once

From thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer into the back of the handle

Is it legal to exercise in areas you frequent?

Laws regarding knives vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you are carrying a folding knife for self-defense, it may be because a fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.

we carefully consider this whole thing many times, we spit and swear

we attach the spacer to the dies, drill, insert pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush

Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that consistently targets quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when it's wet, be it sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make a list because they can often be dealt with after the fact. The clip is good, but belts and pocket holsters can be a problem with carry. A smooth handle can often be trimmed or dressed with a handle.

But if the knife won't open with one hand, won't stay open under hard use, and won't stay sharp or penetrate layers of clothing, it's a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever shopped for a pocket knife for daily carry, you'd know that there are a ton of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can become overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something as personal as a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.

We make bevels on the blade roughly, hardening and tempering, we remove bevels to zero + on the diamond on top, rough assembly

hand sanding, etching. The etching process is also missed because this needs to be done separately by MK.

We finally tighten the axial screw with cyanoacrylate fixation, roughly saw out the lining with a spare, and drill recesses for the axle heads.

You should know what type of locking, if any, you should have based on your needs and preferences before investing in quality knife.

Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is the side spring bar, located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, “lining” the inside of the handle. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.

we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the stop pin, and pins in the backplate, similarly we glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind them.

When fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to contact the butt of the blade, holding it in place without closing it. To disengage the liner lock, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it releases contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use index finger To push the blade, it's enough to hold the bar so that you remove your thumb from the path of the blade, and then continue to safely close the knife.

Linear locks are useful because they allow the knife to have two true handle sides, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, ideal when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry-level and high-end knives. This is the type of locking that appeals to both beginners and enthusiasts.

glue in the locking pin, cut it off and grind the lining closer to the desired shape

in intimate places where it cannot be removed with a grinder (for example), we remove it with a Dremel.

If you will be using the knife for heavy duty tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other locking systems. They're still quite strong, but since they're usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they're more prone to wear and tear, like a hard frame.

Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the internal spring strip moves into place, it is part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks because the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Because of their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is essentially the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks the butt of the blade, move your thumb out of the way, and then fold the knife closed.

you can matte all metal elements, although this is unnecessary

This type of locking system puts the majority of the metal against the blade, providing a strong lock for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy-duty tasks. Locking locks are seen on many mid to high range knives, usually made from titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it takes longer to wear than titanium and stabilizes the shaft so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easy to operate with one hand.

Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.

It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's completely reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into the handles of the knife. To close the knife you will pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the pins thumb, and fold the blade.

Typically these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull the blade to overcome the spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar except they do not have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the steel of the blade and the weights of the knife.

Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.

To remove descents you can use various instruments: grinders, emery machines, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.

One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a real lock, so they're not the best for heavy-duty tasks.

By now you should be more familiar with your options to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite type of lock to recommend? Words and images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen pictures of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocket knife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an essential tool.

Next, we begin making the side dies.

Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, or rather the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.

Carrying a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time outdoors. However, knives may be restricted depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.

Best pocket knife for everyday carry

When you're choosing the best pocket knife for everyday carry, you should consider many factors: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you'll carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember that you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.

Having prepared the pritins in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid, pickled with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner with different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.

You've finally decided to make your first folding knife. This is right. In any case, this gives me great pleasure, and the result inspires new creativity. Give it a try. You won't regret it anyway. Someone smart once said: “it’s better to do it and then regret it than to regret not doing it.”

Since you have already made up your mind, it means you have some design ideas. Let's assume that you have chosen a lock (Liner Lock), and this is one of the best knife locks. If not the best. It contains a minimum of parts, which means it has maximum reliability.

A little history. The modern linear lock was invented by Michael Walker in 1981. The most important thing that Michael did was to create an independent blade fixation system that has only one spring. The lock's leaf spring not only locks the blade in the open position, but also ensures its secure fixation in the closed position.

In addition, this lock allows you to open and close the folding knife with one hand. This invention in the full sense of the word changed the face of the modern folding knife. Honor and praise to him for this.

Make a sketch of the future design on paper or in some graphics editor. For example, it turned out like this:

First of all, choose your materials. It is preferable for a blade, since if moisture gets inside a folding knife, the moisture is not so easy to remove. Therefore, if there is something to rust, it will rust. If there is a thermal operator capable of working with high-carbon alloyed stainless steels, then you are very lucky in life (at the level of happiness).

If not, you will have to work on hardened material, and this is not easy. To drill holes in hardened metal, I use ceramic and glass drills with an arrowhead tip. You need to work hard, at low speeds, but carefully. You can chip the drill. And, of course, monitor the heating of the part. Be sure to refrigerate frequently, otherwise it will release.

Give the desired shape to the blade. I have used blades from Tramontina Professional Master series knives several times. They are a little more expensive than regular kitchen appliances from this company, but they are made from Sandvik 12C27 or 1.4110 from Krupa. This is good steel.

For folding knife dies, I recommend titanium. Despite its small thickness, it is strong enough and has sufficient rigidity and springing properties. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not rust at all. There are some peculiarities in titanium processing.

Titanium should be worked at low speeds. For example, I couldn’t cut a 4 mm plate with a grinder, but I could easily cut it with a hacksaw for metal, although it took a long time. The thread in titanium must be cut slowly, with oil, going back every 0.5-1 revolution.

To cut out the outline of the locking spring in the bottom die, at the place where it is supposed to end, I drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, connect them, and place them there hacksaw blade and forward. Slowly, almost to the hole for the axle. In this place, I also recommend drilling a small technological hole for a clear end of the cut. All that remains is to saw through the line of the stopper itself. Here it is necessary to leave a reserve, which is then removed when setting up the lock.

The second, upper, die has exactly the same dimensions (as a rule) as the lower one. But it must have a recess for a hole for opening the knife. All mating holes should be drilled in batches. Start with the holes for the axle. Do not forget that the diameter of the holes for the fastening screws in the lower die must be threaded, and in the upper one the diameter of the screw.

So everything is cut and drilled. Select, or make your own, two fluoroplastic or bronze washers that will be used as a bearing on the axis of rotation (folding) of the knife. Insert the axle into the bottom die, install the locking pin, washer, blade, and fold the future folding knife.

If something doesn't match, adjust it to the correct size. This must be done very carefully and carefully. Remember Zhvanetsky: “One careless movement: and you are a father.” Well, everything fits together!

On the locking spring of the lower die, mark a place for the ball and in this place drill a hole with a diameter 0.1-0.2 mm smaller than the diameter of the ball. I use balls with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, from the bearing. Then, in a vice (placing a piece of hot metal under the ball, otherwise it will fit into the jaws of the vice), press the ball into the locking plate. The ball should protrude outward by approximately 0.5 mm. The thickness of the washer on the axis between the blade and the die.

Next, using a marker, draw in the place on the heel of the blade where the ball will move and fold/unfold the future folding knife several times. A clear mark from the ball will be visible on the blade. Stepping back 0.3-0.5 mm from the place where it (the trace) ends, drill a hole into which the ball will go in the folded position of the knife. Carefully bend the plate in the desired direction.

Assemble your future folding knife without the top die and adjust the lock (your stopper is cut out with a margin). Do this very carefully (remember Zhvanetsky). As soon as the lock engages, stop. Assemble the folding knife completely, with the top die, and try folding/unfolding it several times, apply force (as if cutting something). Do this several times. And put it off until tomorrow.

Final adjustment of the parts of a homemade folding knife.

Sleep with the idea that you have made your first folding knife. The next day there will definitely be something to finish. Bring the castle to condition. The locking plate should not reach the upper end of the heel cut of the blade, otherwise it will fall all the way to the top plate and jam the lock.

If the spring is too tight (depending on the thickness and brand of used

Today, buying a folding knife is not at all difficult, since such products are not only presented in a huge assortment, they are also sold in many retail stores, as well as on Internet sites. But, despite this, every day the number of people who want to make DIY folding knife. This is due to the fact that homemade folding knives are unique and a person can customize it as much as possible to suit his preferences. Moreover, in the process of making a knife yourself, a person can use any materials, which will make the device reliable and durable.

Before you start making your own folding knife, you need to clearly define the following indicators:

what will be the shape of the future knife;
what material will be used to make it;
what design the future knife will have;
what will be the design of the knife?

DIY folding knives can be made of any material and have any shape, the main thing is to adhere to established standards when manufacturing. When selecting materials for a knife, you must give preference to the most durable and strong material. Stainless steel with high hardness or Damascus steel is suitable for the blade. Of course, most people prefer stainless steel, since it is easier to make a knife from it and, unlike Damascus steel, it is resistant to corrosion.

In addition to the materials, to make a knife you need to prepare the tools that may be required during the work process. It is worth noting that during production simple option folding knife you will need the simplest available tools. Special attention should be paid to the choice of material for the handle, since it should not only be reliable and durable, but also comfortable to use. That is, you need to properly think through the shape of the handle so that it fits securely in your hand and does not slip out. Having decided on the most convenient shape of the handle, you need to choose the material from which it will be most convenient to make it.

Making a folding knife can occur using handle materials such as, hard rocks natural wood, impact-resistant plastic or metal. And, of course, planning self-production knife, you need to think about the mechanism of its folding. Moreover, the knife mechanisms must be treated with special care and every detail must be thought through, since an incorrectly executed mechanism can cause injuries while using the knife. Before you begin work on making a folding knife, you need to make sure that everything necessary materials prepared.

Folding knife mockup

So, if a person is interested in the question, how to assemble a folding knife, then it is possible to do this even without having special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with making a knife, is to sketch the future device on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. The most optimal options Use cardboard to cut out a template for the future knife blade, as it is more durable than paper. Moreover, you can cut out all the components of the future knife from cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and handle with a screw and nut; to do this, you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axle. This approach will help you understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the device being manufactured will close.

In addition, making a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly match the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for the comfortable and practical use of the knife. Find out what it should look like support part heels can be viewed DIY folding knife video. The video will help you make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle; an angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After this, you need to sketch a linear knife lock; as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:

for installing the pivot pin;
for mounting a corkscrew pin;
the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.

It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements performing this function in this knife design. That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper; it will become an additional retainer for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball retainer, since it depends on the functioning of the entire knife lock.

Having marked the location of the ball retainer on a cardboard mock-up of the blade and locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with folding the knife. After this, you need to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads or place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the fasteners.

The procedure for making a folding knife with your own hands

Once the cardboard model of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin to manufacture the device itself. At this stage, the material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already stated, optimal material Stainless steel is considered to be used for making a knife blade, since it will not rust even if moisture gets inside the folder.

To drill holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills. It is very important to drill at low speeds and apply a little force. If you approach the process of drilling holes in a workpiece irresponsibly, then you can simply erase the drills without achieving desired result. In order to prevent steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.

As for dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. When processing titanium and giving it the desired shape, it is also recommended to work at low speeds of the grinder; you can even use hand saw on metal.

In order to make a folding knife, the next thing to do is to cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. At the intended end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of no more than 2.5 millimeters; there should be 3-4 such holes. After making the holes, you need to connect them and insert a hacksaw blade there. The next step will be sawing through the stopper line, but when performing this procedure it is necessary to leave a small margin, which will be removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.

As for the lower die, it often has the same dimensions as the upper one, but there is one difference; in the lower die it is necessary to make a special recess for the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom dies is the diameter of the screw holes. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the diameter of the screw. After all the parts have been cut out and all the holes drilled, you need to make or select two small washers. Bronze or fluoroplastic washers are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing and be mounted on the axis of rotation of the knife.

The next stage in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. This must be done one by one:

insert the axle into the lower die;
install the locking pin;
install the washer;
place the blade and assemble the knife together.

If any inaccuracies arise during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not mate, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, you need to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of the corkscrew spring it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 millimeters, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. Medium size the bearing ball is 1.5-2 millimeters. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vice, and it should protrude to the surface by approximately half a millimeter.

After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge; to do this, just close and open the knife several times. After this, a mark will remain on the blade of the knife; at a distance of 0.3 millimeters from the edge of the mark, it is necessary to make a small hole into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and check the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the device without the top die. If everything works properly, you can completely assemble the knife and check its operation while folded.

Now the knife is ready. As it becomes clear, do folding automatic knife with your own hands This may take a little time and patience.