Each carpenter uses clamps during work, reliably fixing workpieces with their help. You can make such a device yourself, and there are several options.

Clamps are simple, universal and specialized. Appeared not long ago new look products - quick-clamping. Such an element can compress up to 450 kg. It will be useful to study the instructions for making wood clamps with your own hands.

Corner option

Regardless of the type of clamp, it must firmly clamp the parts for joining or processing. Angular carpentry jig helps to fasten wood pieces at a certain angle (most often 90°, but there are others). You can’t do without this when assembling furniture and frames.

In order to make such a clamp from wood with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• two wooden bars 25 mm thick made of hardwood;
• plywood 12 mm thick or more;
• screws, studs;
• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• drill.

A square board with a side of 25 or 30 cm is cut out of plywood. Two bars are fixed on it at an angle of 90 °.

Important! The angle must be measured with high precision, since the correct fixation of the parts depends on it.

First, the bars are glued, then countersunk, holes are drilled with a drill and screws or other fasteners are tightened. Perpendiculars are drawn from the center of the bars - screw studs will pass here.

At a distance of 20 mm from the corners, thrust bars are attached, maintaining a gap between them. It should be slightly larger than the width of the parts that are to be clamped with a homemade clamp. It is better to screw in the studs immediately, before fixing the stops. You will also need to cut out the movable blocks that will be connected to the pin (when it is unscrewed, the workpiece will be pressed against the corner bar).

For screws, it is best to take threaded studs with a rectangular or trapezoidal profile. The thread pitch is 2 turns per cm. It is very good if the stud has a rear sight on one side of a slightly smaller diameter than the thread. It can be used to seat the handle. On the other hand, it is desirable to have a rear sight slightly larger diameter for seating the bearing.

So, in the simplest clamp, one end will be stationary, and the second will move through a worm gear.

To release the workpiece, you need to move the bracket the required distance and turn the knob a few turns. This will fix the element. After this, you can release the mechanism and the workpiece will be released.

The simplest version of this model is equipped with a rail structure. The guides, which are arranged in parallel, have cut grooves at equal distances. Fixed stops are secured using rods made of metal. They can move exactly along the width of the workpieces. At the end of the beams, fixed stops should be installed, which have worm gear. The usual method is to clamp it with a hairpin and a furniture nut.

Self-clamping option

For gluing parts, it is better to choose the most simple model clamps, which have an F-shape. They sell it in stores various models, which consist not only of wood, but also of metal. The cost of such instruments is high. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to make them with their own hands.

Perfect for small operations clamping clamp cam type. For example, if you need to glue small parts or fix workpieces. This model works in the same way as the f-shaped element. The tool includes 2 jaws and guide bars. Sponges: movable and fixed. For reliable clamping, it is necessary to fix the workpiece well and rotate the cam 90 degrees.

You can make such a tool yourself with a minimum set of tools and materials. Before you begin, you should draw a drawing of the product. You can use any material for manufacturing, and also change standard sizes at will.

The tire is made of wood or metal. Small bolts and rivets can be used instead of metal pins. It is recommended to make movable and fixed jaws at the same time, since they mirror each other. Their width and length can be changed to increase the grip of the product.

For gluing boards (boards)

Clamping clamps are needed to fix the plots, which, after the glue has dried, are used to furniture panels. Such products differ from simple ones in their length. In other words, they have a large jaw span. If you buy such material in a store, you will have to pay a decent amount. Therefore, craftsmen prefer to make clamping mechanisms themselves.

Materials and assembly steps

In order to make tree clamps, you will need the following elements:

• beech or birch block;
• feather drill;
• pipe 2.5 cm;
• mortise nuts of suitable diameter;
• a nut that has a rounded knob (used for decoration);
• a cutter with a diameter of 2.5 cm and a long pin.

The basis of the material is a pipe, from which a piece of the required length is cut. Depending on the size of the jaws, it is necessary to cut the block. The pieces should be from 15 to 20 cm. For free movement of the timber along the pipe, a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm should be made at a distance of 2.5 cm from the edge. Parallel to the hole, a cut should be made from the same end. To fix the sponge on the pipe, connect the hole to the end.

For the driving nut, you need to drill an additional hole on the side of the cut. You need to drive a nut into it and tighten it with reverse side bolt. To fix the sponge, clamp the pipe in the hole. To move the pipe, you need to unscrew the bolt, then move the element and repeat all the steps again.

There are 2 jaws in the lower clamping part; it is slightly larger than the upper one and has an additional nut. The structure of both parts is identical. An additional driving nut is located at the opposite end of the pipe into which a stud with a wing nut is installed.

In the second collapsible moving part there are no clamping parts such as cuts and nuts. The dimensions of such an element are also rather large. In this part it is necessary to make a recess for the stud device.

Operating principle

The principle of operation of the clamp is very simple. It is necessary to separate the extreme jaws so that they are separated from each other at a distance of 3 cm greater than the width of the shield that will be installed. Next you need to fix them on the pipe. To do this, tighten the nuts that are located at the edges. The blanks must be placed on the tubes and sealed with glue. Then they need to be pulled together by rotating the “lamb”.

If you know how to use a grinder and welding machine You can make the same clamp for gluing wood from metal.

To maintain the plane of the plot with tubes, it is recommended to arrange clamps in checkerboard pattern. The main advantage of such a tool is its ease of manufacture and operation.

Special clamp designs

Having mastered the skills of making simple-shaped clamps, you can improve them and make devices for connecting complex parts.

There are homemade clamps made from wooden hanger, which is sawn into pieces. They combine wood and steel and make more comfortable handles that allow you to quickly tighten the screw. This is especially important if you need to change positions frequently or use several clamps at the same time. In the case of complex pieces, you can first cut them out of paper and then transfer them to plywood.

Although welded metal products are more reliable, wooden structures They are also used not only for carpentry, but also for turning and carpentry work. You don't need to have any special skills to create a clamp. You can make such a wooden product in unlimited quantities with your own hands. You just need to devote some time to the manufacturing process.

A master from Snezhinsk shared with me the recipe for making these clamps. Artem Laskov. They are designed for fixing plots, which, after the glue dries, become furniture panels. Such clamps are quite long, that is, they have a large jaw span (factory ones are obscenely expensive), but you need not two or three of them... Therefore, it is better to make them for yourself, which is what we will do.

So, for work we will need: timber made of hard wood (for example, birch, beech, etc.). Pipe 25 mm, or 25 mm in diameter, mortise nuts with bolts of the corresponding diameter, a long bolt (stud) and a decorative nut (with a rounded knob).

So, the base of the clamp is a 25 mm pipe. Cut a piece to the required length.

We cut the block to the size of the sponges, for example, in pieces of 150-200 mm. On the one hand (stepping back 20 mm from the edge, we drill a 25 mm hole, or better yet 25.5 mm, so that the beam moves more freely along the pipe). From this end, parallel to the hole, we make a cut, connecting the end and the hole (so that you can tighten its edges and fix the sponge on the pipe).

Behind the hole (on the side of it and from the cut) we drill another hole, for example, with a diameter of 8 mm - for a driving nut). We drive a nut into it, respectively, and tighten the bolt on the other side. Now, having tightened the bolt, we clamp the pipe in the hole and the sponge is fixed in this position. If you need to move it, unscrew the bolt, move it where necessary and perform the operations in reverse order.

Now let's move on to the clamping part (bottom). It contains two sponge parts. The lower one, which is more massive, has exactly the same structure as the upper one, only it is supplemented with another driven nut at the end opposite to the pipe, into which a pin with a decorative nut is screwed. It is advisable to make a “lamb” on the heel on the opposite side. For example,

The second part is movable - it is less massive, does not have any clamping elements (nuts, cuts, etc.), only it is advisable to make a small recess for the stud.

and another explanatory photo.

It should look something like this.

The clamp works as follows: we spread the outer jaws 2-3 cm wider than the expected width of the future shield. We fix it on the pipe by tightening the side nuts. We fuze the blanks, lay them on the tubes, coat them with glue, after which, by rotating the “lamb”, we tighten them together. It is advisable to place the clamps in a checkerboard pattern (see photo) so that the tubes support the plane of the plot (see photo).

The main advantages of this design are its ease of manufacture and price, that is, you can make as many of them as you need without spending much - just what you need for garage carpentry.

Using this device you can glue wood panels different sizes. The clamp itself is easy to use and has a fairly simple design. Subject to availability necessary materials making such a clamp for a home workshop will not be difficult.

To make homemade clamps (they are also called clamps), you will need a pin with M10 nuts, a 20 mm steel strip and two rectangular profile pipes with sides 40x20 mm, 80 cm long. These materials can be bought inexpensively at a hardware store.

Clamps for gluing panels: stages of work

On profile pipes make markings and drill through holes every 15 cm, using ordinary or step drill. We cut the steel strip with a grinder into pieces 150 mm long. In these plates we drill two holes of the required diameter.

We connect the profile pipes to each other using plates. You will also need stops - movable square shape and a fixed T-shaped one, welded from a profile with side dimensions of 20x20 mm. We screw a pin of suitable length into the movable clamp.

Features of using a clamp

It is good because when gluing wooden shields clamps the workpiece from four sides in two planes. Thus, the gluing is of very high quality. By rearranging the T-shaped fixed stop, you can adjust the length. Watch the video on our website for the process of assembling a clamp for gluing wooden panels.

Nowadays, furniture made with your own hands from natural and environmentally friendly fittings is in great demand. To obtain such fittings, furniture panels are often used. It is much more beautiful and practical than analogues such as MDF and chipboard, and has a number of advantages over them.

Beginners in furniture making often do not know where to buy furniture panels that suit them. Samples sold in stores are not always suitable for the planned design. But experienced craftsmen always have on hand wooden boards. With their help, you can easily create a furniture panel yourself if you know the manufacturing technology.

To do this you will need glue, a lot of tools and knowledge of step-by-step instructions.

How to glue wooden boards into a board

To get it right glue furniture board, first you need to acquire special equipment:

• Planing machine;
• Circular saw;
• Hammer;
• Thicknesser for drawing marking lines;
• Long ruler, tape measure and pencil;
• Clamps or homemade tools for tightening boards;
• Surface grinding and tape machine for stripping wood. Instead, you can use sandpaper, screwing the wood onto the block, but cleaning will take more time;
• Electric planer;
• Wooden boards.
• Glue.

To successfully glue boards, it is important to choose high-quality and reliable glue:

• Isofix G818. Professional wood glue made on the basis of polyvinyl acetate. It does not contain solvents, is characterized by high moisture resistance and powerful fixation, used for interior and exterior work, gluing any type of wood. Becomes transparent after drying. Product cost: 232 rubles per 500 ml package.
• Joiner or Moment Super PVA. Heat-resistant, quick-setting and high-strength adhesive designed for gluing all types of wood, chipboard, MTF, DVM, veneer, plywood, fittings and laminate. After drying it becomes transparent. Cost: 330 rubles per 750 ml package.

Instructions - how to glue a shield without clamps and clamps

Once you have all the equipment, tools and suitable glue ready, start gluing the shield. This process consists of several stages.

Preparing the boards

The wood for making shields must be of the same type.

Types of wood that are used to make furniture panels:

• Birch;
• Pine;
• Clear;
• Larch;
• Aspen.

The wood must be dry, smooth and free of knots. It is best to buy ready-made timber and cut it at right angles into pieces of the required size. If there are any unevenness on the bars, use a planer.

The thickness of the boards should be several millimeters greater than the final parameters of the shield, since after gluing and drying they will need to be refined by sanding. To do this, select a workpiece with a width to thickness ratio of 3:1. The boards should be no wider than 15 centimeters so that excessive stress does not arise in them during drying.

Preparation for gluing

Before connecting all the boards, they must first be adjusted so that you get a beautiful shield:

1. Build flat surface, so that it is convenient to glue the shield from the boards. For this, it is best to use a chipboard sheet;
2. By two chipboard edges attach the slats, adjust their height in accordance with the height of the workpieces;
3. Place the boards between the planks so that they fit snugly together. If there are gaps, remove them with a jointer. Carefully examine the wood grain of each specimen. The lines of adjacent blanks should connect smoothly and then the shield will turn out beautiful. To adjust the lines, move the boards along the length;
4. After placing the blanks on the chipboard sheet, mark them or mark them with figures so that you can quickly put the board back together.

Gluing process

Once you have adjusted the boards, glue them together one by one.

1. Cover the surface to be glued completely with glue. It is important not to apply too much glue, otherwise it will cover the seams. But do not neglect the glue - its deficiency will negatively affect the strength of the shield;
2. Press the greased boards firmly one to the other;
3. Attach two more planks perpendicularly to the two planks located on both sides of the chipboard and secure them with self-tapping screws. This will avoid bending of the furniture board when gluing;
4. To increase the adhesion of the bars, use wedges. Press the boards until the first drops of glue appear on their surface;
5. Let the shield dry for about an hour. Then remove it from the surface chipboard sheet. Do not touch the material for another day.

VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

Final stage

As soon as the homemade furniture panel dries, the wood must be sanded, planed and traces of glue removed.

This will give you a smooth and even surface:

• Place in grinder coarse-grained sandpaper for preliminary grinding;
• Then treat the surface of the shield with a surface grinder;
• If you notice lint, you can get rid of it with a small amount of water. Pour it onto the surface of the furniture board and wait until it dries. After this, the fluff will rise and can be easily removed with sanding equipment.

By following these instructions, you will create a high-quality furniture board that will become an excellent basis for the construction of bedside tables, tables, shelves and many other items for your home.

Clamps are an indispensable assistant every carpenter. It is difficult to imagine a master who is able to do his work without these devices. There are quite a few types of clamps and clamps, and manufacturers never cease to look for new solutions to make their tools even more convenient, functional and adapted to specific carpentry tasks.

In our material we will talk in detail about the main types of clamps for wood: we will tell you what they consist of and how different models of clamps work, we will consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them, we will give useful tips, how to choose a clamp for specific carpentry tasks.

G-clamps

Design Features. G-shaped clamps, also often called C-shaped, are the most versatile and widespread type of carpentry clamps. The basis of the design is a cast or forged bracket with a movable clamping screw.

Advantages. L-shaped clamps are lightweight, easy to use, provide high clamping force, and have no backlash in the jaws.

Flaws. Suitable for joining workpieces of small thickness.

Scope of application. G-shaped clamps are used in cases where it is necessary to apply the same compression force to surfaces that are parallel to each other. IN carpentry C-clamps are used mainly when gluing wood.

F-clamps

Design Features. The clamp consists of a guide rail on which movable and fixed jaws are fixed. The movable clamp, sliding along the guide, has a set screw that allows you to adjust the desired grip length and prevents the clamp from loosening. The jaws are equipped with pads to protect the fixed surfaces.

Advantages. The main advantage of F-shaped clamps is their versatility. The adjustable grip length makes it possible to firmly and firmly fix workpieces of various thicknesses.

Flaws. It is not always convenient to work with an F-shaped clamp, because... To manipulate the tool you have to use both hands.

Scope of application. Used for fixation wooden products and blanks of various thicknesses.

End clamps

Design Features. The end clamp consists of a cast or forged base-bracket with three clamping screws.

Advantages. Simple and accessible design for solving specific carpentry tasks: a clamp with a T-shaped profile is used to clamp edges and ends.

Flaws. Despite all its functionality, managing an end clamp is not so easy: fixing an edge, simultaneously holding a clamp and tightening three clamps is not always convenient alone.

Scope of application. Clamping of edges and end elements of wooden products.

Angle clamps

Design Features. Clamps for corner connections can have very different designs. Typical design consists of a body, one or two screw clamps with clamping heels.

Advantages. A simple and compact device for fixing workpieces at right angles. Such clamps are often supplemented with special holes for fastening to a workbench.

Flaws. Limited possibilities when working with large wooden elements.

Scope of application. Clamps for gluing and fixing wood at right angles. Creating miter connections.

Quick-release (automatic) clamps

Design Features. The typical design of a quick-release clamp consists of a metal tire and two plastic jaws (movable and fixed). The moving part is pressed using a special lever mechanism. The lightweight and durable body of quick-release clamps is made of glass fiber reinforced plastic composites. This allows automatic clamping to be used in almost any environment.

Advantages. One-handed options are perhaps the most convenient and ergonomic type of clamps. How to use such clamps is intuitive: all manipulations are performed with one hand, while the other holds the part. Even the smallest quick-release clamps have enormous clamping force.

Most lever models have a transformable design that expands the capabilities of the tool. For example, on some models you can expand the jaws in opposite sides, for working by surprise, which is very convenient when disassembling tenon joints. Two quick-release clamps can be easily re-arranged into one long one by interlocking the protrusions on the fixed jaws.

Flaws. High-quality automatic clamps are quite expensive, and almost all budget analogues are not highly reliable.

Scope of application. Quick-release clamps are used for all types of carpentry work: from fixing small parts to gluing large panels.

Spring clamps

Design features. Clamps with unregulated clamping force, working on the principle of clothespins. A popular variation of the classic spring clamp are designs with variable clamping width.

Advantages. The clamps are lightweight and convenient; all manipulations when working with them are performed with one hand. They provide a stable, powerful clamping force. Optimal for delicate fixation of glued parts.

Flaws. Small grip depth.

Scope of application. A universal device for gluing and fixing oversized parts.

Band clamps

Design Features. The band clamp consists of a durable synthetic band and a tension block. The package usually includes plastic elements for adjusting corners.

Advantages. Provides gentle clamping of corners and curves without distortions, which is very important at the gluing stage. Allows you to work with products of any size: from small frames to large cabinets. The use of plastic corner elements ensures uniform pressure when gluing corners and miter joints.

Scope of application. Selection of tape type clamps – best option for complex carpentry tasks: clamping rounds large diameter, fixing polygonal joints, etc.

Pipe clamps