Template for miter sawing. Wood processing and furniture making - advice from experienced carpenters
Half-tree cutting - simple and reliable way connect two identical parts at right angles. This method is useful when creating corner, cross and T-shaped joints. By marking and selecting half the thickness of the material in each part, you will get a neat and durable connection, which will become indispensable when assembling frames and timber structures.
Half-tree cutting is done in different ways: using a router, circular or band saw. We'll show you how to create perfectly tight joints using a classic set of hand tools.
TOOLS
- carpenter's square;
- marking thicknesser;
- pencil or marking knife;
- axing saw;
- wide carpenter's chisel.
Do-it-yourself half-tree corner joints
Half-timber corner notch (overlapping) is the most common type of frame connection. Its logic is extremely simple: at the ends of both parts, recesses (folds) are cut out along the width of the counter part. The fold forms an edge and a shoulder - they must be perfectly smooth and strictly perpendicular to each other. IN quality connection the surfaces of both parts fit tightly and form a joint without the slightest gap.
Connection marking
Create markings for the fold selection. To do this, use a carpenter's square, a surface planer and a marking knife.
Measure the length of the edge along the width of the mating part. Draw marking lines on the edges. Set the thicknesser to half the thickness of the part and make side markings.
Advice! When creating carpentry joints yourself, use a sharp marking knife instead of a pencil. It will ensure high marking accuracy and the absence of marks on the finished part. In this case, the deepened line will become a convenient starting position for a chisel or auger saw.
Rebate cutting
Using a back saw, saw off the waste part on each part, carefully following the markings without strong pressure or jerking.
Using a wide chisel, clean the edge and shoulder, achieving the tightest possible fit of the parts.
T-shaped (T) connection
The lap joint is another variation of the half-timber joint, which is widely used in creating frame structures. In this case, the end of one part is adjacent to the middle of the second. A fold is cut out on the first (according to a similar pattern as in a corner joint), and a landing groove is cut on the second. Below is one of the schemes for creating such a groove manually.
Make markings on front side, focusing on the width of the counter part.
Using a thicknesser and a square, mark the edges.
Make cuts in the waste part. They will make it easier to remove later with a chisel.
Use a wide carpenter's chisel to remove the waste. Remove layers, moving from the center to the edges.
Clean the groove. The edge and shoulders must be perfectly smooth and meet strictly at right angles. This will ensure that the parts fit as tightly as possible.
On the issue of fixation
Half-timber joinery joints do not have a mechanical connection, so they are secured using gluing. We talked about this in detail in previous materials.
While drying, the structure must be secured with clamps. When placing the clamps, make sure that their pressure is distributed evenly. An incorrectly installed clamp can deform parts or disrupt the fit of the joint.
Unlike frame structures, logs or beams are strengthened using a different technology. In this case, screws, dowels or dowels are used to secure the connection.
At the corners, the frame is joined with a miter joint, reinforced with flat dowels (the so-called “biscuits”). The base is glued and compressed with clamps. Having measured the diagonals,
TO internal corners the frames are secured with glue and screws to the support blocks. The top end of the block should be flush with the top edge of the base frame.
Place the case on the back wall and attach the base to the bottom of the case with screws driven through the holes in the mounting strips
Turn out all the screw supports and mark the position of the holes for them with a pencil. The base is removed and Z10 mm holes are drilled in the bottom of the body.
Make sure the base is rectangular.
While the glue dries, cut out 37x37x82 mm blocks for the adjustable supports and drill 011 mm through holes for the mustache nuts in the center. At the same time, they drill holes at right angles to each other to secure the blocks with screws to the base. The baleen jackdaws are clogged. Blocks with screwed supports are approximately 100 mm long. They are placed flush with the top and bottom edges of the base frame.
Now the frame needs to be connected to the body. To do this, four 20x20 mm strips are cut out, which are intended for installation between the support blocks, and drilled into them mounting holes for fastening to the bottom of the housing. The base is militarily secured in place with four 32 mm screws. Turn out all the supports and use a pencil to mark the location of the hole for them on the bottom of the body and drill them. When drilling, so as not to chip the plywood on the inside of the bottom, place a piece of board underneath. Now the height of the supports can be adjusted with a screwdriver.
U
Rice. 1. Molding with rounded canton.
The doors are plywood panels with edge sawn and nailed edge strips or moldings with a cross-section of 5x22 mm, which are made of solid wood with a rounded edge (Fig. 1).
Before attaching the moldings, the corners are cleaned so that the edges and the front wall drawer were flush. Then the moldings are installed.
Having cut out the molding blank according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, take a piece of the strip and file one end “on a mustache”. The first cuts are made taking into account that the semicircular protrusion is directed upwards. To check the connections, use a trimmed cut. “on the mustache” at both ends.
The fitting of a pair of moldings begins with miter sawing of one end. Join the right end, carefully press the flat edge to the miter -> on the other side, mark the position of the joint and make a miter cut.
Use a sharp pencil to mark the location of the miter cuts and use a miter saw to saw off the moldings along the marking lines. They are glued and secured in place with small pins.
Now they are hanging the doors. Typically, the diameter of a cup of European ash for cabinets is 35 mm. The instructions included with the hinges indicate where to drill the slots for the cups. Then they transfer the marking of the holes to the cabinet door. Attach the mounting plate and screw the hinges into place. European hinges can be adjusted in three directions - in/out, up/down and right/left. When the cabinet is positioned exactly horizontally and vertically, the hinges will
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Advice from professionals No. 5" 10
What could be simpler than connecting? wooden parts on "us"? Despite the simplicity of the method, sometimes difficulties arise with the accuracy and precision of connections. In this article we will give you simple tips, by adopting which, you will achieve incredible results. Yours corner connections will always be perfect!
1. Select the direction and structure of the fibers
It doesn’t matter what you are making: a photo frame or a frame for a furniture facade, make sure that the color of the wood, as well as the direction and structure of the fibers on the workpieces match. Selecting parts with similar structures takes a little time, but the result is excellent connections.
2. Fine-tune the cutting angle using sticky pieces of paper
If you've ever tried to adjust yours by a few tenths of a degree, then you know how difficult it is to do so. We offer you a simple way to solve this problem: stick it on cross stop several sheets of paper for notes. Thus, by making trial cuts and removing one leaf at a time, you will achieve perfect angle cutting
3. Use scraps of blanks to try on parts
To accurately determine the length of the trim element, you need to try it on the panel. This is easy to do if you attach trim trim to the panel
4. Use dowels for smooth joints
It is often not easy to position the parts evenly relative to each other and clamp them in clamps, especially when the parts are lubricated with slippery glue. This is why woodworkers use dowels, even in cases where additional joint strength is not required.
5. Assemble frame structures using corner clamps
On some clamps, when assembling the frames, you need to additionally make sure that all corners are connected at 90 degrees. Using corner clamps There is no need for additional measurements of angles and alignment of diagonals.
6. Increase the open time of your glue
It can be difficult to quickly apply glue to the joints, assemble the frames, and clamp them into the clamps without rushing or fussing before the glue begins to set (often the open time of the glue is less than 5 minutes in a warm, dry room). To increase the open time of the glue, you can slightly dilute it with water. However, do not overdo it - if there is too much water, the strength of the connection may decrease.
7. First, assemble the parts “mustache”, then profile
It is not always convenient to trim profiled workpieces - chips may appear, they are not always easy to clamp in clamps - the outer profile of the product can be damaged. Therefore, simplify your life - first assemble and glue a frame from blanks rectangular section, and after the glue has dried, profile manual router or on
8. Trust your sense of touch.
When you make a frame design, the parts on opposite sides products must be the same length. To verify this, perform a simple test. Place the two pieces together and run your finger along the ends. There should be no differences. You may not notice the difference in length by eye, but you will definitely feel even the slightest discrepancy in the length of the workpieces.
9. Close unsightly cracks
If during the process of assembling products you still were unable to avoid gaps at the corners of the joints, do not despair. Simply close them by pressing the corners into the center of the joint with a blunt, smooth object. You will be surprised, but the gap will disappear, and appearance the product will not deteriorate at all. Believe me, even experienced craftsmen use this method.
10. You can change the proportions of the product in case of an error
If the last part of your binding turns out to be slightly shorter than the opposite one, you can cut it along the inside. And after assembly, cut the remaining parts according outside. This will reduce the width of the strap slightly. If this is not for example furniture facade, then no one will notice anything
GLUING OF CONNECTIONS ON THE MC
Get good connection it's quite difficult to do it well on the framework. When you glue and clamp corners, the pieces always move.
I found a simple solution. Before gluing with back side I fix the corners of the frame with one or two brackets (Fig. 1).
Staples allow you to open the front side of the joint and introduce glue into it (Fig. 2). In addition, when tightening the clamps, they keep the corners aligned (Fig. 3). Once the glue has hardened, the staples can be easily removed.
HOW TO GET RID OF Pruning
No matter how adjusted thickness planer, the ends of the boards always end up being cut deeper than necessary.
To reduce waste, I add slats to the work piece that can be sacrificed. They are approximately 150 mm longer than the workpiece, so they get all the trimming. These slats on the sides working part are fixed with small drops of hot melt glue, and then the “sandwich” is run through the machine. Once the work piece is planed to size, the auxiliary slats are easy to remove.
SHELF HOLDERS CONDUCT
When installing shelves, a lot of time is spent marking and drilling holes for their supports. This must be done very accurately. Therefore, in order to do without measurements at all, I use a simple device. It is a wooden jig with four holes. Two of them have dowels inserted into them as guides.
First, drill two holes in the wall. Then insert the dowels into them and use the tool to drill two next holes. Then move the conductor to just drilled holes, prepare the next pair of holes and so on. As a result, all holes will be drilled at the same distance from each other.
FLAP FOR DUST COLLECTOR
I recently purchased a dust collector for my workshop. It is convenient to work with it if you add a damper, which I decided to make from plywood (see photo). The manufacture of the damper began by cutting out two pieces of 20 mm thick plywood with holes with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the pipes.
Between the plywood plates I inserted 3 mm thick spacers, which created a gap for the damper. Then I assembled the entire structure using glue and screws. I made the sliding flap 3 mm thick. I glued a wooden handle to its upper end, and screwed a screw into the lower end, preventing the damper from falling out in the open position.
Then I cut and installed two scraps from the dust collector pipe in the plywood so that they were flush with the internal ribs of the holes in the plywood.
Protractor
I work a lot with a jigsaw, and often have to change the inclination of its table. But the simplest scale underneath is not very accurate and difficult to read. So I made a protractor from a cheap plastic protractor. This is a wooden block with a protractor attached to the side (Fig. 1). A piece of wire hung in the center shows the angle of inclination (Fig. 2). When working with a protractor, first adjust the protractor so that the wire arrow shows 90°, and then measure the inclination of the table.
SHARPENING V-CHISEL
Compared to a regular chisel, sharpening a wood carving tool is a little more difficult.
Sharpening the front sides. Sharpening a V-tool starts with a bevel on the face and is similar to sharpening a regular chisel. Since the V-shaped tool has two angled sides, both need to be sharpened.
Use a medium grit stone with water or oil. When sharpening, hold the chisel at an angle of approximately 20°-25° and move it in short strokes back and forth along the block (Fig. 1). It is necessary to achieve equal sharpening on both sides. To do this, make several passes on one side, then the same number of passes on the other. Once sharpened, you will see a small burr running across each inside edge. Remove it by polishing the inside of the cutter on the leather belt.
Removing the hook.
When the burr is removed, outer corner a small hook remains (Fig. 2a). If you do not remove it, the tool will be difficult to operate. Remove the hook by successively rotating the tip of the chisel back and forth across a medium-grit block (Fig. 2).
Polishing. Polishing removes tiny nicks on cutting edge, where the external and inner sides. By removing the nicks, you will make the tool much sharper. To polish an edge, leather belt Apply a little GOI paste and repeat the sharpening steps (Fig. 3).
INSTALLING THE DRAWER PULLER
Wooden slides are traditional, but they can sag under heavy load if, for example, a drawer in a buffet is filled with cutlery. Fully retractable ball and roller mechanisms do not jam and allow you to easily reach items lying against the back wall. The full extension mechanism must be mounted with the guide rails installed at the same height. This is difficult to do in a buffet, since the edges of the guide slides are usually rounded, and therefore there is no “reference point”.
In a buffet, drawer mounting jumpers can be attached to the lid rather than to the sides. Therefore, the bar must be pressed to the bottom edge of the jumper so that a protrusion is formed. After installing the guides in place, they are exactly flush with the bottom edge of the jumpers and at the same level.
HOW TO MAKE RIGHT ANGLES
Usually the edging strips are attached to an already made body - you just need to glue them and press them into place with clamps.
On the sideboard, I added vertical trim to the sides before I assembled the cabinet. And instead of butt joints, I cut out the mortise/tenon joints to increase strength and keep the parts aligned when clamped with clamps.
Keeping parts aligned is not the same as keeping them at right angles. The problem is not in the connection, but in the clamps. If the clamps are not accurately centered on the joint, they tend to deflect the edge away from right angle(Fig. 1).
One solution to the problem is to make sure the clamps are perfectly centered. But best way- insert pressing blocks into the corner of the assemblies (Fig. 2). Then the assembly will automatically be at right angles to the side walls.
CUTTING VOLUME PANELS
Cutting out the long sides of the panels is not a problem. But cutting short ends less than 150mm wide is difficult.
When feeding short ends, the panel is unstable, especially when there is only 5 mm of supporting surface between the ruler and the disk. To press the part tightly against the longitudinal ruler, your hands must pass very close to the disk.
Attach a tall auxiliary ruler to the longitudinal ruler. Then place the panel on the saw and press it firmly.
Then, holding the slab in place, hand vice Press a pair of wooden strips against the panel so that they lie flat on the top edge of the auxiliary ruler. This will provide you with additional support.
CHAMMER CLEANING
When cutting volumetric panels on a circular saw, marks from the disc often remain on the bevels. Most quick way To remove them, use a stripping block with an edge that matches the shoulder of the panel field.
GENTLE PINE
Pine is a soft wood that requires special approach. Many difficulties arise when sanding and finishing pine. It slips easily. To move large items, use a sheet of plywood - place the item on the plywood, not on the concrete floor. This will protect the ends of the boards from chipping.
Most scratches can be cleaned up quickly. And dents can be removed using a hot iron and a damp cloth, since the wood absorbs moisture from the steam and the dents disappear.
Before processing pine, make sure that the circular saw blade is sharp: a dull disk tears the soft fibers and does not cut them. Pay attention to the tariness of the disc. During cutting, the resin creates a lot of resistance. You can remove layered resin by washing the disc with a household cleaner.
When drilling pine, the first pass must be made hand drill switched to reverse. In this case, the teeth on the drill scrape the outside diameter of the hole, thinly cutting away the wood fibers.
Pine wood fibers can be torn not only by sawing and drilling, but also by removing dried glue, especially if it is scraped. Do not apply too much glue to the joint and clean off any excess glue immediately before it completely hardens.
Stripping pine has its own specific features. Usually a grinder is used for this. But it leaves almost invisible spiral marks on the pine. Therefore, finish sanding your items by hand.
Use a stripping block. If you strip without a block, you will remove more young wood as it is softer, resulting in a wavy rather than smooth surface.
There are two things to consider when finishing pine. Firstly, pine unevenly absorbs stain, so the wood gets dark spots. Try deresining the wood first, which will even out the stain's absorption. Secondly, if possible, choose light stains. They don't highlight dents, broken grain or spiral marks as much as dark ones.
LONGITUDINAL SAWING OF CROSS-WARVED BOARDS
Such boards can be sawn lengthwise in two ways, and both have their advantages and disadvantages.
The board lies with the concave side down. When cutting a board longitudinally in this position, it rests on two edges. Therefore, when making most cuts, the board lies stable. But problems can arise in the last centimeters of the cut. When you finish cutting, the cuttings between the ruler and the disc may fall down and get stuck against the disc. To reduce the risk, quickly move the workpiece forward in the last centimeters.
The board lies with the concave side up. In this option, there will be no danger of jamming at the end of the cut. But the board itself will be less stable during the whole process.
Perhaps the best (and safest) way to cut a warped board lengthwise and avoid kickback is to use a bandsaw rather than a circular saw.
Let's do without a drill
To assemble furniture, you need to drill many holes to install fittings, or additives, as the professionals say. Moreover, this work requires high precision. Otherwise, what kind of assembly will it be? One frustration! If it happens at all.
Just pick up a drill and start drilling parts - this option disappears immediately. The axis of the hole must be strictly in the specified planes. This condition is especially difficult to fulfill when drilling the end of a part - for example, a shelf.
1. Alternatively, you can use a conductor. I work with a conductor from the KWB company, it is sold in construction supermarkets. The device allows you to drill holes different diameters at a specified distance from the edge edge. For a novice furniture maker or an experienced one, but working at a distance from the workshop, such a device is quite suitable. But you can’t work like this all the time. It’s not a good idea to carry a tool in your hand all day, and even try to hold a part standing straight on an edge! All this is tedious and leads to a decrease in the quality of work. There is only one way out - to organize your work so that the part is on the work table. And the tool performing the drilling stood on it. The operator will only have to place the parts on the table in a given position and move the tool back and forth.
Based on these introductory notes, I made a simple device (machine), which, it seems to me, will be useful not only for professionals, but also for home craftsmen who have limited time to do what they love. Industry, as far as I know, has not yet come up with such a necessary device.
2. For the machine I adapted an engine from a sharpener. True, the thread pitch of the motor shaft and the drill chuck turned out to be different. I had to use the services of a turner. The sharpener motor is asynchronous. Compared to a drill, it works almost silently. And due to the absence of elements that work with friction - a commutator and brushes - its service life is significantly increased.
3. The basis of the machine is a structure made of laminated chipboard from an old cabinet. The engine is mounted on a plywood base, with two aluminum channels attached to the bottom. Thanks to these slides and the grooves under them, formed on the table with laminated chipboard blocks, the engine can only move back and forth relative to the work table on which the part is installed.
4. Aluminum stop square pipe Additionally, it also functions as a channel for removing chips and dust. A vacuum cleaner is connected to it. The distance from the drill axis to the work table surface is 8 mm. This is enough to add all the fittings. If you need a larger value, you just need to place a couple of strips of a given thickness under the engine sole.
5. Drilling precise holes for dowels in the edge of the part.