IN household Often a circular saw is not enough, especially if you start major renovation or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adaptation of existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

Stationary circular saw includes several main components: table, shaft, motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with high-power engines. They are also made from wood good tables for circular. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For homemade circular the engine fits well washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors so that it can operate on 220 V.

The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. Work for lathe performed in one installation, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Provide on the shaft seats: under the circular saw and under the pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

Characteristics circular saw, engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

Transmission is done only by V-belt - when hit foreign objects under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with large diameter, and on the circular shaft - with less to increase the number of revolutions.

The rotation of the shaft with the circular saw is so many times more revolutions engine, how much smaller the diameter of its pulley is from the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. TO back side two studs are welded onto the platform and go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves, attached to the drawers with bolts with countersunk heads.The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Comfortable material Finnish plywood will serve, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. She's thick enough to withstand heavy weight, moisture resistant, easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a disk large diameter, so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw, which will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. We apply the sole manual circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. We drill two grooves in it perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For homemade device With constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials It is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys various diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

For anyone home handyman, having your own stationary sawing machine– this saves time and ensures work safety.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular saw. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles; more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, making a homemade circular saw Any craftsman with basic metalworking skills can do it. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, it’s enough strong table with a slot for a saw blade. These options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety or functionality when using such a device.

Some of these “models” have a shaft for securing the knives of a plane or jointer. As a rule, a frame is welded from a corner or channel, an electric motor from discarded factory ventilation is mounted on it, and with the help of a pulley the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case it is necessary coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Because on such stationary saw You can work with small workpieces - you need to take care of the safety of the operator. It is advisable to provide adjustment of the rotation speed and the ability to easily change disks with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the “stop” button is located in an accessible place and is large in size.

You won't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, maintaining a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Let's look at the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but only if you have certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from metal corner(channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact a metal warehouse. Legs can be made from old ones water pipes, connecting them with corners.

Good option homemade frame made of rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, since vibration will cause the fastening to come loose.

Electric welding must be used. Be sure to strengthen corner connections mowing. Upper part the bed (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the frame, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

After cutting with a hand-held circular saw (parquet) for some time, I realized its disadvantages - cutting a small part is difficult and dangerous, for example, a piece Chipboard size 10x10cm, etc.

And also when sawing boards lengthwise, your hand gets very tired holding the saw; this is the most convenient saw.

Then I decided to make a table for a circular saw with my own hands, only portable, so that I could put it on any chair or table and put it on a shelf when not needed, and also left the possibility of quickly turning it back into a manual circular saw - without removing any protection and etc.

Materials for the circular table

To make a circular table, I used 3 mm sheet steel, cut two squares measuring 45x50 cm. Marked a window for a saw blade with protection measuring 26x200 mm and cut it out with a grinder, trimming the edges with a file.

At the base of the circular saw I drilled 4 holes with a diameter of 6 mm to attach the saw to the table.

Installation and fastening of the saw

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Next, I installed the saw on the sheet with the window, accurately centered it and placed holes for attaching the saw pins. I used M6 studs. I drilled 5 mm holes for the saw mounting studs and cut an M6 thread. The studs were twisted into the sheet so that there was 1 mm left to the edge of the sheet with front side, then they were welded on the front side, just 1 mm was filled with liquid metal. This method of fastening turned out to be quite durable.

Next, I marked 4 holes in each sheet for the location of M10 racks; I did not cut threads for them, because... The thread pitch is large for M10 and in a metal thickness of only 3 mm they will not hold well, but on the other hand, nothing needs to be attached closely to these studs, so they were simply welded on the bottom and top sides, the top welding was ground flush with the metal surface. The studs were welded only to the top sheet of metal.

TO bottom sheet metal studs are secured with nuts on both sides. This is done so that you can easily disassemble the structure and quickly remove the saw.

The ruler was made from a 32 mm angle and two pieces of 40 mm wide steel strip.

We had to cut grooves in the strip for the M8 wings. I made the grooves like this - I drilled holes along the edges of the groove and cut out the groove with a grinder, and then with my favorite file :)

The strips were welded to the corner.

Then I checked that everything fit well, took the structure apart and painted it.

I ended up with a great table for my circular saw.

Advantages of a table saw

• convenient to work, unlike a hand saw;
• the saw can be installed on a chair, on the floor, on a table, and it does not take up much space; it can be put away on a shelf in the garage;
• the ruler allows you to cut wider workpieces up to 30 cm than the original 18 cm ruler; if desired, you can make the ruler and table even larger;
• saw with a slight movement of the hand and wrench turns... back into a manual circular saw;
• the saw still has protection on the blade, something that regular table saws usually do not have.

Disadvantages of a Table Saw

• The switch on the saw is not fixed, so you need to either keep it pressed or insert a wooden wedge into the switch (I temporarily do this), which is not good for safety. But you can simply replace the switch on the saw, or equip the table with an outlet with a switch.

I didn’t find any other shortcomings with my circular saw table.

Photo of table saw: