A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a basic necessity, and in populated areas the production and rental of watercraft profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

1. A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
2. A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor transport) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
3. The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
4. Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
5. Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
6. The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, seaworthy enough for given conditions swimming and at the same time controlled in waves, currents in the river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and, with an adult and moderately developed assistant, load it for transportation;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top rack passenger car.

For the entire set of qualities, except for the price of materials, optimal choice for my first vessel I will have a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Foam boats, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boats.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are milder; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the bridge of the catamaran (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you like, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for soft plastic boat will cost much more than best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (item 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same goes for sea sailboat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

A little more difficult conditions sailing, in waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the next rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. His optimal area– approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: sailing yacht This is an airplane with one wing in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. As a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances, you can construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the CBL shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. From here the most important conclusion: Without proper knowledge of seamanship, do not experiment with sails! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting off the wings of an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the performance of the vessel: using the trapezoidal method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half not a drop, but an ogival-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be generously saturated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately trim plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear details will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: V lately quite a lot of amateurs assemble boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil fiberglass in clean dishes for at least half an hour, then allow the container with its contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water and only then remove the fiberglass.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts from extruded polystyrene foam EPS is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much is enough expensive material will go into retirement. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Possibly more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid severe consequences accidents on the water - an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory supplies for walking and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring end and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now on sale there are autonomous LED lamps the size of a child’s fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from the optimal option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a Kurbatov welded anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On to the next rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, so to save the rower’s muscular effort great value acquire the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed the project sailboat plywood dory, see pic; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with short, steep “angry” waves (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, Marquis’s Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On to the next Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in fairly strong winds, it is possible to take one reef on the sail. Follow exactly specified dimensions: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

All photos from the article

Modern market provides a fairly large selection of various tourist and fishing boats. But for our man, a homemade plywood boat is much closer. And the point here is not even about saving money; a boat made by yourself is a source of pride, plus the whole process self-production, this is not so much a job as an interesting hobby. In this article we will look at the main stages of assembling such products.

A few words about preparation

Homemade boats made of plywood and fiberglass are considered, although small, but full-fledged watercraft. Therefore, the preparation and assembly process must be approached responsibly. After all, by and large, mistakes here can not only lead to damage to the vessel, but also in some cases endanger the life and health of the owner.

What materials are needed

• As the name suggests, the main material here is, of course, plywood.. For the hull of a small boat, sheets of at least the first or second grade, with a thickness of about 5–7 mm, are well suited. For the keel, frames and other auxiliary structural parts, you need to take a thicker sheet, from 12 mm and above;

• The grade of material is not the least important.. The choice of plywood is now quite large, but in this case the material will be in long-term direct contact with fresh or even sea ​​water, naturally, plywood must be taken with increased moisture resistance. Ideally, it is better to take the FB brand; it was originally made for ship needs. If the price for “FB” does not suit you, then you can stop at “FSF”;

Advice: the now widespread brand “FC” may be listed in some sources as waterproof.
But in our case it is not suitable; here we need a material with increased moisture resistance, plus one that can withstand prolonged exposure to an aggressive environment.

• Clean wood will be used for struts, seats and other elements. As a rule, planed boards with a thickness of 25 mm are taken here. In this case, preference should be given to soft, porous varieties. In professional shipbuilding, larch is used, but for a small boat spruce or pine is sufficient;
• Well suited for intermediate stitching of sheets copper wire about 2 mm thick;
• Fiberglass and polymer glue are used to create sealed seams. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose the type of adhesive composition; there is quite a large selection on the market, the main thing is that the composition is waterproof.

Tool selection

Homemade plywood boats for fishing do not require an excessively large set of tools.

Here you can get by with a traditional kit, which is available in the workshop of almost any owner:

• In addition to pliers, screwdrivers and scissors, you will naturally need a hacksaw;
• Cut regular plywood hand saw It’s quite heavy, so it’s better to purchase it with a set of canvases. Moreover, you should select a model with as many revolutions as possible, since at low speeds the veneer along the edge will break off;

• For such work you definitely need grinder. With ordinary sandpaper, by hand, you will not be able to achieve good quality processing;
• To secure the sheets when gluing, clamps are used; there should be at least 3–4 of them;
• A set of brushes is needed for applying glue and paints.

Boat construction

In this case, it is not so important which type of boat you choose. Punts, kayaks, sailing ships or boats with a motor, the instructions for building all these models are approximately the same.

Let's start with drawings

Nowadays it’s not a problem to find drawings of a homemade plywood boat. There is enough information on the Internet or in specialized literature. You only need to decide on the size of the vessel, because the thickness of the sheets depends on this. If you don’t yet have the proper experience in such work, it’s better to stick to simple, non-separable models.

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend designing a boat yourself. But if you still decide on such a labor feat, you need to start with a careful calculation of the displacement and carrying capacity of the vessel. So that after you launch and try to swim, your product does not immediately go to the bottom along with the owner.

Important: drawings of homemade plywood boats with a motor are not much different from purely oared analogues.
As a rule, these vessels have a slightly modified transom (rear side).
Therefore, regardless of whether you have at the moment motor, it is better to immediately give preference to just such boats.

So, when you have found a model that is suitable for you, before moving on to the actual production of parts and assemblies, you need to make paper patterns according to the drawings. And only after checking all the dimensions, transfer the pattern to plywood or wood.

Housing assembly

Maximum length standard sheet is about 3 m. Therefore, in most cases, you will need to splice two or more small sheets into a single sheet. This is a simple, but rather painstaking process that requires precision and accuracy. Such a connection among professionals is called miter gluing.

To do this, take 2 sheets and cut them along the edge at an angle; the width of such a bevel should be at least 7 times the thickness of the sheet. How larger area contact, the stronger the connection. The bulk of the mass is removed with a file, then using a machine until perfect condition. Next, the bevels are smeared with glue, connected and pressed with something heavy until completely dry.

Advice: assembling and gluing such structures on the floor is extremely inconvenient, so it is advisable to immediately build trestles from a 50x50 mm wooden block.
Keep in mind that you will have to handle both sides of the boat, so the sawhorses must be adjusted to accommodate this.

Almost every craftsman can build homemade fishing boats. You just need to choose the right material and connect it according to the diagram. This device can be used not only for fishing, but also for walking along a pond. You can also buy the product in a store, but it is not sold everywhere, and the cost is not at all pleasing. During the manufacture of the product, it is necessary to fix all parts securely and firmly. No joint should allow water to pass through. You should also calculate Weight Limit people who will be transported by the boat for fishing.

Most often, users are interested in how to make a boat themselves from classic wood materials. To do this, you first need to select the appropriate drawing. You will also need plywood sheets 0.5 cm thick.

You can make a boat with your own hands using the following technology:

1. First, you should draw paper templates according to the selected drawing and apply the contours to the plywood.
2. You can cut out fragments using electric jigsaw or fine-tooth saws. At the same time special attention should be noted at the angles at which the parts will be joined at the ends.
3. Fastening frames and transoms. To do this, you can use glue or galvanized screws.
4. Fixation of sides, bottom. Here you will also need a special strong waterproof glue. Additionally, the bottom from the inside of the boat is reinforced with slats. Absolutely all parts must match each other in size. The chamfers of those parts that will be in contact must be removed so that there is no gap between the surfaces.
5. Seam taping, corner reinforcement. To ensure that the connections do not allow moisture to pass through, they must be well sealed. Here you will need Aerosil and epoxy resin.
6. Fastening the oarlock and seats.
7. Sanding the outer surface. This is done as soon as the product is completely dry.
8. Impregnation of homemade products for fishing protective composition, its painting. It is better to use special paint that is intended for a wooden vessel.

To increase the strength of the product, it is necessary to make the tailgate and frames from several layers of material. If the boat is equipped with a motor, then the side on which it will be installed must be reinforced wooden plates from hard rocks, and also additionally glued with fiberglass.

To build a home “boat”, it is not necessary to use wood or plywood. You can even build a device from plastic bottles. At the same time, the made device will float just as well and is quite suitable for fishing (in addition, the master will spend less effort, time, and money on it).

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

• bottles (a small container will not work here; it is better to take products designed for 2 liters);
• glue and tape (they must be resistant to moisture);
• wire;
• stationery knife or scissors;
• plywood;
• wooden or metal crossbars.

The container is first cleared of labels. Next, it needs to be made more rigid. To do this, the bottles are placed in freezer, twist tightly, and then put in a warm place. The lids must be additionally fixed with water-resistant glue.

You need to form “logs” from the container. You can connect the elements with an improvised coupling, which is cut from the center of an empty bottle. The elements are fixed at the bottom. In this case, the protrusions of the other must fit into the recesses of one container. Next, the workpiece is fixed with glue and tape. Now you need to cut off the top parts from two bottles and put them on the necks of the finished design. The rest of the logs are made in this way.

From these products, collected in groups of 8, floats are made. You can connect the fragments with strong wire. The floats are secured to each other with wooden blocks. After the transverse parts are ready, you can attach the plywood bottom to them.

This ensures the reliability and waterproofness of the joints.

To give a beautiful appearance The product can be sheathed with plywood or metal sheets.

Among all fishing devices, a boat is the most cherished dream of a fisherman. Moreover, the ship can be quite small. For example, folding models can be taken with you when fishing with the least chance of not fitting them into the car. Most often, such structures are made of duralumin.

Additionally, you will need rubberized fabric, linings and rivets, wood, primer, wood, paint.

Installation of such products involves several stages:

1. Selection of material. You need 4 fragments for the sides and 2 for the bottom. You will also need 3 cross members: 2 spacers to ensure the reliability of the structure, and 1 seat.
2. Cutting out fragments, fitting them and bending them.
3. Making holes for rivets. The distance between them should not exceed 2 cm. All places where rivets were installed must be thickly coated with paint to seal them.
4. Galvanized fasteners are used to secure the seat.
5. Priming and painting the fixture.

It is better to fish from this type of boat. It is unlikely to be suitable for a romantic walk. In order not to spoil the duralumin, it is better to first make fragments from cardboard and fit them.

By equipping the device with outboard motors, you can build a real boat. But it is not always needed.

Most often, fishermen prefer oars, because they are much quieter.

Not everyone will be able to purchase a ready-made boat, since the prices are very steep. In addition, not all designs meet the needs of different clients. If you take inflatable boats, then these are not very reliable models, since they can easily be damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not very reliable. In such cases, a decision is made to make a boat with your own hands from plywood. The construction of a small watercraft begins with sketches, which are then transformed into very professional drawings.

This is a fascinating process and only those fishermen who are in constant creative search can do it. In addition, building a boat is a factor of self-affirmation. But if you look at the process seriously, then there is nothing complicated.

A small craft that can take 2-3 fishermen on board and has no heavy weight, can be easily made from plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move both with the help of oars and with the help of a boat motor or sail. This does not require special professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is a strong enough material to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is easy to process using electric or manual tools.

In addition, if you install a motor on such a boat, it can develop a respectable speed with good performance characteristics. Besides, plywood boat much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to select an appropriately sized room where the boat could freely fit. It is advisable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, it’s unlikely that anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you already need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain optimal temperature conditions. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity must be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

• drawing supplies;
• pencils;
• elastic bands;
• patterns;
• rulers and triangles;
• line;
• cardboard and drawing paper;
• paper glue;
• calculator.

At the construction stage you will need:

• jigsaw;
• hammer;
• axe;
• clamps (up to 10 pieces, no less);
• brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
• screwdriver;
• electric and manual plane;
• screwdrivers;
• chisels;
• stapler;
• circular and hand saw.

Materials for manufacturing can be:

• plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), thickness 4-5 mm;
• pine or oak boards;
• fiberglass for covering the boat hull;
• putty for filling cracks;
• waterproof glue;
• drying oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
• oil paint or waterproof enamel;
• nails, screws, self-tapping screws;
• metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

Main dimensions of the boat

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then its optimal dimensions will be:

1. The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
2. The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
3. The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What is the boat made of?

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as the base and to which other elements of the boat are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and on the reverse side is the sternpost. With the help of these components, the boat is given longitudinal rigidity. Such structural parts can be made from a single piece of wood or individual components connected by gluing, as well as nailed or twisted with screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse load-bearing elements called frames. The planks connected to the frames, stem and stern post form the sides of the boat.

If you cover this frame with plywood, you will get a boat. A deck is laid inside the boat - a slant, which is the lower deck to protect the bottom of the boat.

Plywood boats for motors

Motor boats are not particularly different in their design considerations compared to boats designed to be propelled by oars or sail. The only difference is in the organization of the place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Certain designs of small vessels are equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and unsinkability, special gaps are provided in the craft, which are filled polyurethane foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of flooding the boat if it capsizes.

Working drawings of the boat

All work on building a boat begins with drawings, which must be drawn up professionally. If this cannot be done, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can already find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the basic imaginations. But even here you need to be careful not to miss the main stages of assembling the boat and making additional components.

As a rule, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the structural components.

A large sketch of the drawing can be drawn using the following algorithm:

• A line is drawn that conditionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and absolutely identical.
• The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these areas.
• Both a vertical display and a top projection are drawn.
• The shapes of the frames are drawn using the transverse marks.
• The main dimensions of all components are checked to scale.
• The shape of the frames is drawn on a scale of 1:1 on cardboard or thick paper.
• Flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or pattern.

The resulting drawing is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must flawlessly repeat each other.

Transferring a design to a wooden piece

After once again checking the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and rigid paper will make it easier to transfer the drawings to the workpieces. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and contours exactly as it was drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying designs, take into account the direction of the wood grain. In this case, it all depends on the design of the boat elements. If the element is made of plywood, then the plywood layers themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for making futoxas, they can be made larger in height, since they can then be trimmed.

Technological stages of production

To build a plywood boat with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

• transfer the drawing to the template;
• transfer drawings from templates to wood;
• install the keel and secure the stem;
• secure the frames;
• secure the sternpost and transom board (for the motor);
• cover the bottom with plywood;
• trim the sides;
• seal joints and stringers;
• putty and paint the boat hull.

Boat hull

The frame of the boat and its hull are assembled from prepared parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames are first pre-attached to the keel and only after the next inspection are they finally secured. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before covering it with plywood.

Assembling the inner contour of the futox

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how reliable fastening futox. Footoxes are integral part frame design, which consists of floortimber and two futox.

Flortimbers is bottom part frame, which is designed to be attached to the keel. Futoxes are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. The places where the futox and flortimber are attached are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft where engines will be installed, which increase the load on the structure in general and during movement in particular.

Material for stem

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. One of the most suitable materials for its manufacture can be oak, but, in extreme cases, elm can also be used.

You will be lucky if you can find a piece of suitable wood that has a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make a stem from individual elements, by gluing method. If you want to have a solid structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools and cut it out according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of the boat design, and is a typical board, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

Side boards

To do this, choose healthy, smooth and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Making a transom

The transom is intended for mounting a boat motor. The transom board should be 25 mm thick. If plywood is used, it is better to glue several layers together so that the final result is suitable thickness(20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness should not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced on top with a wooden block. In this case, it all depends on the method of mounting the outboard motor.

Making a boat frame

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

• the keel is installed;
• stems are installed;
• the installation locations of the frames are marked;
• installation of frames;
• fastening frames, stems and transom to the side boards;
• checking the correct installation of all elements before their final fastening;
• It is advisable to treat the joints of structural elements with a waterproof compound or drying oil.

Sheathing a boat with plywood

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the boat's hull.

Subsequently:

• the frame of the boat capsizes upside down;
• all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated with emery cloth and made absolutely smooth;
• the parts of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and secured with a stapler, after which the fastening points are pierced with nails;
• The side skin elements are first tried on, and then fastened in the same way as when fastening the bottom;
• When gluing workpieces, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be located along, not across, the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining a durable structure, and, if necessary, filling seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints between the workpiece and the keel and frames are glued. After punching with nails, fill the areas where the plywood meets with glue. load-bearing elements if they do not fit tightly.

To improve the strength and performance of the craft, the plywood sheathing is covered with fiberglass. Such protection of the wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass fabric is evenly distributed along the plane of the skin, while folds or the appearance of bubbles are not desirable, which indicates poor quality of work. The fabric is glued from the keel, towards the side boards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat has dried well, proceed to the next stage - puttying and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are ideal. The boat is painted in two stages: first, a primer layer is applied, and then one or two layers of paint.

Registration of a watercraft

To register a boat self-made, the following documents should be submitted to the State Inspectorate for Small Vessels:

• passport;
• individual taxpayer number;
• A certificate of initial technical inspection of the watercraft agreed and signed by the inspector with a conclusion on its suitability for operation;
• settlement receipts for materials that were used in the construction process;
• receipts for payment of state registration fees;

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