With the coming summer season, many families (or rather part of the families, consisting of grandparents and children - grandchildren) move to dachas, villages, etc.

Fresh air, nature, fresh vegetables“from the garden” and all the other advantages of dacha-village life - it’s just lovely. But separation from urban comfort is also perceived as an inevitable price to pay for all these pleasures. And among these losses is the lack of a “permanent” hot water. Sometimes it's just depressing! It’s not normal for you to wash your face in the morning, or to wash yourself in the evening, or to wash the dishes, or... In short, hot water is not a luxury, but a norm of life! Let's look at ways in which we can “get” hot water in a dacha (village), and preferably without special effort. Methods like “heat in a kettle” or “heat with a boiler in a bucket” are immediately rejected as “emergency”. We will consider only those that solve the problem once and for all, and the result of the solution is a faucet from which hot water flows. Anytime you want. Like in a city apartment. So:

Electric water heaters

There are two types - flow and storage. Flow-through heaters heat water directly as it flows through the heater. Since heating must occur quickly (albeit of a small volume of water), the heater power is rarely less than 1.5-2 kW. Moreover, hot water does not flow in a stream, but flows in a trickle. Such a high heater power is a serious obstacle to their use in dacha conditions. Here the transformers are not very good, and the wiring... And even in the event of a power outage (which is not uncommon in rural areas) everything turns into a useless toy. It is also difficult to use, for example, in the evening, when there is a peak increase in the load on the network. In general, it is not known what such a heater has more advantages or disadvantages.

Heater accumulative type is nothing more than a container of 20-30-50-100 liters, with a built-in electric heater with a power of up to 0.5-1 kW and placed in a thermal insulation casing that allows you to retain heat for a long time, for example, several days. One-time hot water consumption high temperature(75-85 degrees) is unlikely to exceed several tens of liters (even if we are talking about a bathhouse), so there is no point in installing a heater with a capacity of more than 50-100 liters.

The small relative power of the heater (usually combined with a thermal relay) allows you not to “force” electrical network. And in 10-20 hours the heater calmly heats the water to a high temperature and enters standby mode. As the water is consumed, a new portion of cold water enters the container, which slightly dilutes the hot water and the heater turns on again. Storage heaters require a permanent connection to a water source in the form of a water supply or storage tank, from which it feeds the heater. Otherwise, the heater may fail. This also introduces some inconvenience. Even if you have your own well or well, at a minimum you need to install a mini-water tower or install an automatic pump with a receiver that maintains pressure in the water supply. On the other hand, setting up your own water tower for 1-2 tons of water ( plastic tanks for 800-1000 liters is now absolutely not a problem) solves many water supply problems at once. There is no need to constantly run the pump; it is enough to pump fresh water into the tank once a week.

You can make a storage-type water heater yourself by ordering from a workshop metal products a stainless steel tank of 50-100 liters, inserting a heater with a thermostat into it and placing the tank in a box with a heat insulator (sawdust, mineral wool, polystyrene foam).

Solar water heaters

As is known, in middle lane Russia for every square meter surface, perpendicular sun rays, 750-1000 Watts of energy drops in 1 hour. That is, approximately 1 kW/hour. If you learn how to “collect” it and make it heat water, then you will be provided with warm water from April to October. You just need to arrange the “right” one solar water heater.

The vast majority of summer residents have only progressed as far as a black-painted barrel placed on the roof summer shower. At this point, work on the “exploitation” of the Sun is considered completed. And such barrels stick out next to the houses, like monuments to stupidity. The water in them is heated to a hot state at most 10-15 times per season. Meanwhile, by carrying out the simplest modifications to even such a heater, you can significantly (manifold!) increase its efficiency and be hot water almost constantly. And these works will not require large amounts of labor or expenses. What needs to be done?

Please note that the barrel is on the roof “as is”. That is, completely “naked” and almost always open at the top, that is, without a lid. Now pay attention to how much of the surface is illuminated by the sun - at most 20% of the surface of the barrel can be considered “approximately perpendicular” to the rays. What about the rest? 50% of the surface is simply in the shade, i.e. it does not absorb solar energy, but on the contrary - it emits heat! Because as soon as it warms up above the ambient temperature, the barrel immediately turns into a heat emitter - you can’t fool nature. The same radiation occurs at the ends of the barrel. Now add almost constant wind blowing over the barrel. Complete calm is a rare occurrence. And every 10 meters per second is guaranteed to reduce the surface temperature by 10 degrees! So what do we end up with? Those pitiful crumbs of heat that the water in the barrel receives from a narrow strip of the surface of the barrel, located perpendicular to the sun, are immediately dissipated by back side barrels are carried away by the wind.

Therefore, if you want to really make the Sun work for you, you need to do this kind of work. The barrel must be placed in a box. The side of the box that will be facing the sun has walls either made of glass or made of durable polyethylene film. And the half of the barrel that is in the shade should be covered with a heat insulator. For example, you can put sawdust in a box, wrap the barrel with a soft heat insulator such as polyurethane foam, etc. In other words, the barrel must be placed in a special greenhouse and additionally insulated so as not to radiate heat. And of course it is necessary to exclude the wind blowing the barrel. Do this, and on the second day you will take care of the supply of cold water, because the water in a thermally insulated barrel will heat up not to a measly 30-40 degrees sometimes, but to 60-70 and almost always. And such water will already need to be diluted cold water for use.

An even more advanced solar water heater can be made by installing a real solar collector. Since we cannot increase the power of the Sun, we can increase the amount of heat received only by increasing the surface area. To do this, two pipes are connected to the barrel. One as close to the bottom as possible, the other higher. The collector itself is connected to the nozzles using thermally insulated hoses. The collector can be, for example, a flat metal container. The simplest collector is a black hose, neatly rolled into a spiral and placed in a flat box, covered with glass or film. The inside of the box is lined with household foil.

The main requirement for the operation of such a collector is the absence of air locks in the system and the possibility of constant circulation of water. That is, as water is consumed, its supply in the barrel must either be replenished, or the upper pipe must be arranged in such a way that the flow of water is not interrupted and water plugs do not form. The barrel itself, of course, must also be thermally insulated.

The operation of such a collector is based on the fact simple law nature that cold water denser than warm and tends to sink down. The water in the collector is heated and displaced by colder water from the barrel, supplied through a hose from the lower pipe.

But the Sun is the Sun, but this is still the mercy of nature. And sometimes the weather is cloudy for a week or two. So what then? And then it is better to supplement the system with other types of heaters.

Catalytic heaters

For those who are seriously involved in work on summer cottage and prepares compost, this phenomenon is probably known. If you take about half a cubic meter (or more) of grass, straw, and other small plant debris, pour it thoroughly with water, and compact it, then this debris begins to “burn.” Not open flame, of course, but to rot, while emitting large number heat. Moreover, the temperature at the “epicenter” exceeds 100 degrees or more. There are numerous cases of spontaneous combustion of stacks of raw hay and stacks of straw. And the operation of such a reactor lasts for several weeks, regardless of the weather and external temperature. And you can always replenish the supply of “fuel” by mowing a bag of other weeds. Why not use this heat to heat water? Yes, easily.

Of course, you will need a thermally insulated barrel, again with two pipes and hoses. But here you will need a more complex collector than a solar one. Firstly, only metal, and secondly, with flexible hoses. For example, a heated towel rail pipe is suitable as such. You can buy several meters of copper tube and connect adapters to a standard 3/4″ or 1/2″ thread at its ends. The tube can be bent in the form of a “snake” or a spiral.

The "reactor" itself is wooden box approximately 1?1 meter (it can be arranged in the shade of the most summer shower, bathhouse or kitchen). After placing approximately 1/3 of the existing grass in the box, place the collector and the remaining grass. Water it generously and trample it down. Then the box is closed plastic film. After 1-2 days, the process of rotting begins in the box and it begins to “give out” almost boiling water.

After 2-4 weeks, when a significant part of the raw material burns out, this can be seen by the settling of a pile of grass and a decrease in temperature, the reactor is dismantled and the fuel supply is replenished.

What is especially valuable about such a heater is that it does not require any maintenance, works on its own and, in addition to heat, also produces compost - the most valuable organic fertilizer. Moreover, without weed seeds - they are simply digested there, unlike, for example, manure. Moreover, in combination with solar collector, working on the same capacity, you can build an “indestructible” water heating system. I don't know what would have to happen for you to be left without hot water.

This heater is good if you always have the opportunity to mow 2-3 bags of grass. If this is not possible, then you can arrange a “samovar” in the rear of the shower.

Wood heater

At one time, water heaters were very common. They looked like a potbelly stove, only small in size, with an oblong container mounted on its pipe. They fulfilled their task, although the small size of the stove firebox caused a lot of trouble when preparing firewood.

Meanwhile, such a design as a samovar has long been known. The firebox, as you know, is located inside the water tank itself, which makes the efficiency of such a water heater quite high. And most importantly, such a firebox is absolutely indiscriminate in fuel. Anything can serve them. From cones to fairly long sticks - as long as it fits into the pipe (fuel is loaded into the samovar through a pipe).

If there is a welder in the area, a workshop, or you “can do it yourself” - make such a collector - a samovar, repeating it standard design one to one, only by making a container of 20-30 liters and connecting it to a storage barrel with heat-insulated pipes. A few logs of firewood will be enough to provide hot water for the whole family to take a shower. The shower is a light structure. It will be enough to turn on hot water in it for a minute, and it will warm up all over, so there is no need to heat it itself. It will be heated by falling hot water. During the period from May to September inclusive, this is quite enough.

Like this in simple ways You can easily get hot water at the dacha and constantly.

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March 7, 2015

Imagine that you can heat water and heat your house using energy obtained from compost without buying or burning fuel, and at the same time producing a bioproduct, a ton of which costs more than a ton of coal. Modern innovations based old idea made compost energy available to many people.

You might think that getting energy from compost involves bad smells and manure, but that's not true. In fact, the system of generating heat from compost, on the contrary, reduces the odors of the rotting process, and this is its additional advantage.

IN recent years The surge in farming in Western countries is driving investment in increasing the production of high-quality compost. Rising costs and supply disruptions in conventional fertilizers such as potash are driving demand for quality compost. In addition, increased requirements for plant products prohibit the use of conventional chemical fertilizers for their production.

Investments in compost production have in turn spurred various innovations in the area of ​​generating heat from compost. As a result, several viable methods for producing heat from compost in a controlled manner have emerged.

Today there are many examples of households, greenhouses and farms that use heat and hot water obtained from compost energy systems, eliminating or reducing the need for conventional combustion fuels. Such systems range from simple low-tech installations that produce energy from sawdust and shavings, to large engineering installations on farms and compost plants.

An engineered system for generating heat from compost was developed by Agrilab Technologies and Acrolab Ltd. It is known as Isobar. This unit moves hot, moist air from the compost to a heat exchanger. In this case, the water in the heat exchanger is heated to 50 – 60 °C. The Isobar pays for itself in less than five years and is ideal for compost plants and farms with 100 cows or more, or similar farms with similar amounts of manure produced, feed stocks, food residues or forest residues.

A few words about how heat is released in compost. In short, any biomaterial, given a sufficient amount of thermal mass, air and moisture, will undergo a natural thermophilic process of composting, in other words, rotting.

The microbes that produce heat during the composting process need food, air, and moisture just like any other living organism. Even aside from the ability to use that heat, there are many other benefits to the process, such as killing pathogens in soil production.

French farmer Jean Payne developed a simple method of using heat and heating water from compost wood chip piles in the 1970s, but his method was forgotten after his death in 1981. And 10 years ago, a group of enthusiasts brought his method back to life.

There are now several Isobar installations that are successfully operating and produce 0.3 kWh per ton of compost over an eight-month cycle. On average, a ton of compost produces 410 kW of thermal energy, equivalent to $45 in fuel savings. Forty-five dollars per ton of compost is a lot of money, since a ton of high-quality coal costs $40.

Key words: hot water, water heaters

If any of the readers had the pleasure of staying in the village in winter, namely in the area of ​​the silo, then you could note interesting fact- to load silage into a tractor for livestock feed, you don’t need to hammer it with a crowbar, even if it’s freezing outside. Moreover, steam emanates from it, and if you put your hand into the thickness of the mass at least up to the elbow, you will notice that it is noticeably hot inside!

The method of generating heat from compost was developed by the Frenchman Jean Payne in 1970, and this technology has not lost its relevance today. This method It is actively used in Germany and it is called Biomeiler. Biomailer is a system for obtaining heat from a special compost heap(biomass), also known as "compost heating".

The process of cellulose fermentation by aerobic bacteria is accompanied by the release of carbon dioxide and heat, as well as various other substances that are of little interest to us within the framework of our topic (about the process). At this stage we are interested in heat. Let us immediately clarify that if in the compost, in addition to cellulose (branches, leaves, tops and other plant waste), there are components containing nitrogenous bases (for example, animal droppings, manure, organic waste), then some other bacteria and our newly created the bioreactor will also begin to release methane, which can be used as a fuel source for gas stove, and, with sufficient quantity, for heating. But for now let's talk about the heat we get from plants.

During the composting process, aerobic bacteria convert organic matter (such as shredded branches and plant debris, corn and beet tops) into heat and carbon dioxide. This process occurs around us constantly and everywhere: on the earth and in the soil.
This heat can be used for space heating and hot water, the temperature inside the compost heap reaches 60 degrees Celsius.
Biomailer is very simple system. It only requires pipes, water and the warmth of the compost. The only moving part of the system is the standard circulation pump central heating. This simple design reduces maintenance costs and risks of breakdown.

The biomailer requires oxygen to operate, so you should not place this pile of organic matter in an underground bunker - the fermentation process will not stop, but will slow down greatly, which will affect the amount of heat that can be taken from the pile. Let's note right away that 2 cubes of leaves will not heat the house, but washing dishes, washing and rinsing in warm water in the summer - this volume can already help.

I really like the idea of ​​hot water supply “for the lazy” - 3-4 days of work and 6-8 months you can wash your hands in warm water. If you want numbers, then they are on the Austrian website, there is a review article with pictures (I stole a couple from there) and more, with numbers, volumes and kilowatts (copy). I’ll say right away - to completely solve the problems with hot water in your country house, one Kamaz of branches and leaves will not be enough. But who’s stopping you from walking along the autumn streets of your city and looking at the big piles of fallen leaves collected by janitors for disposal at a landfill and ask those responsible for cleaning the streets - would they like to dispose of THIS absolutely free? Not at the training ground, but in your backyard, for example?