Not everyone can, and, moreover, not everyone wants to pay big money to the team for the installation of the frame, which can be applied with your own hands. When ordering plasterboard ceilings in a bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend much more money on their installation than buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn yourself! And we assure you - the plasterboard ceiling is not so terrible, as it is described on the Internet!

Spending only 20-25 minutes of time, you can make suspended ceilings from plasterboard without outside help. Therefore, right now we will be pulling the "piece of bread" from professional installers and screwing this contraption with our own hands!

What is a plasterboard ceiling for?

Many people think that this design is only for beauty. In fact, this is not at all the case and the appearance of the room is the last reason to make a suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at why you need to make a plasterboard ceiling.

1. Heating savings: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating, especially for tall buildings. From the ceiling of 320 centimeters (private house, stalinka), you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat excess and warm air will be closer.
2. Ceiling alignment. Some emergency rooms require substantial repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any irregularities.
3. The problem of laying communications and engineering networks. Sometimes it is easier to hide them under drywall than to cut the entire ceiling and walls with a chasing cutter.
4. Sound isolation. The best way to "get rid" of neighbors and retire in your house or apartment. With high-quality insulation, you can even live at the airfield.

There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and you can enter a new house much faster.

Ceiling marking for plasterboard - the first stage

Let's start with purchasing materials and counting money. To know how many materials will fly to the drywall ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it and calculate it using a calculator. Let us consider in detail how the marking of the ceiling for drywall is done.

STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and mark with a marker.

STEP 2: Marks other corners. We take a laser level (it is also possible to have a hydro level, but it is more difficult to work) and "punch" a straight line to the other three corners, draw marks.

STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer in 1 nail at one mark, the other at the other, pull the paint cord between them (grease it with a little grease), then take it aside and release it. He hits the wall, leaves an even mark - the line is ready. You can also draw a simple line using a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil.

STEP 4: fastening the guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a 28x27 mm metal profile and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take the sealing tape (sold in the kit), glue it to the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made.

STEP 5: we mark the wall for the main profiles. Drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on either side of the wall every 40 cm, draw a line. Draw perpendicular lintels every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, then every 40-50 centimeters.

Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles will be located under the drywall. This will greatly simplify the search in the process of screwing drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to perforate it for a long time until you find a jumper in the middle of the sheet.

Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. It is not worth throwing "in reserve", since it is impossible to spoil a metal profile, and even a bent one can be safely leveled and screwed onto dowels. Additionally, at this stage, we need the following items on the plasterboard ceiling:

1. Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (main) according to the calculations.
2. "Crabs" for connecting profiles.
3. Sealing tape.
4. Anchors and dowels (for a start, 50 pieces can be taken).
5. Level.
6. Plasterboard sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
7. Putty (3-4 bags per medium room).
8. Screwdriver.
9. Self-tapping screws for drywall (25 mm for sheets of 10 mm).
10. Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).

After purchasing all this pile (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can start working.

The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling

The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work lies ahead - fastening the metal profiles and creating a strong frame for the ceiling. In principle, this is not much more difficult than, only in this case, the work is carried out with hands up. Remember that the accuracy of the work depends on whether your plasterboard ceiling will bend in 2-3 years or not.

STEP 1: we attach the hangers of the profiles to the ceiling. This should be done with anchors, since the dowel for a vertical surface is much worse.

STEP 2: building up profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the whole room, they must be fastened. To do this, you need to purchase a special connecting fastener and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the profile suspension.

STEP 3: fastening profiles to hangers. It is necessary to evenly raise the profile by 2 edges (an auxiliary worker will not interfere here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and stick the other edge. Further, according to the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), "grab" the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners.

Important: never leave the profile without support on 1 or two self-tapping screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. At least 2 points in different corners of the profile, preferably 3-4 points.

STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. An instrument with a length of 250 centimeters will do. If somehow it was possible to screw it crookedly, we unscrew and adjust the suspensions in the required place.

STEP 5: just like this, we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we attach the jumpers (the junction points of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and fasten them together.

STEP 6: soundproofing and insulation. If the installation of a metal frame is implied with the installation of a heater and an insulator, then it's time to take care of it at this stage. Cut the mineral wool into large pieces and attach it over the lintels.

Important: Use goggles, a respirator and gloves when laying mineral wool, it can get into the eyes and cause severe skin irritation.

Installation of a frame for drywall is the most difficult and lengthy process, all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).

Fastening drywall to profiles

When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up ... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can proceed to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be placed at room temperature with a relative humidity of no more than 85%, and allowed to rest for several days. Remember that you can not put the sheets vertically and store in this way- they can deform under their own weight, especially if they were slightly damp. Let's move on to the fastening process.

STEP 1: cut off the edges of each drywall with a clerical knife at an angle of 30-40%, so that later it would be easier to seal them with putty. This only applies to cut sheets, since the glued ones already have such a chamfer initially.

STEP 2: we raise the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not interfere) and attach it in the corners, then we look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and fasten the drywall there. If you ignored such labels in the first section, you will have to search for the profile at random. It is necessary to retreat from the edges at least 15 centimeters so that the sheet does not chip, remember this!

STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the caps are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it will not work normally to putty, and "obliquely crooked, just to lively" will not suit us.

Fastening GK sheets takes no more than an hour in a small room, since you already have a flat frame and all that remains is to grab them to the profile with a screwdriver. The screw tightening frequency is 20 centimeters.

Seam sealing, leveling and counting of materials

After the sheets are attached, it is necessary to prepare the putty and apply it with a large spatula, make sure the corners are even, so that there is no excess of finishing material at the junction of walls and drywall. If you apply more, you will have to level the corners for a long time.

After the putty dries up (6-8 hours), you can take a trowel or paper and remove all "stains", level the surface and prepare it for finishing. The ceiling can be painted in the desired color, a stretch ceiling, decorative plaster and whatever is needed.

For a room of 20 square meters, you will use approximately the following amount of materials:

• 19 standard-size ceiling profiles;
• 110 hangers (fixing the profile to the ceiling);
• 8-9 sheets of GK 10 mm;
• 10 guide profiles (I am molded to the wall);
• 24 crabs;
• 0.5 kg self-tapping screws for fixing drywall.
• 30 dowels.

Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a work team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you.

1. The joints of the connection of 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line, they must be done out of order, like laying bricks with a "bundle" in construction.
2. The use of a sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since the sound is not transmitted through the metal.
3. Purchase moisture-resistant drywall from a well-known manufacturer, its cost is slightly higher, but you will be sure that it will not be "driven" and the edges will not break.
4. Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets, working with a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an additional battery so that you can work continuously.
5. Finishing putty hides only small irregularities so clean and apply the first coat as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.

If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be no worse than the one that the working team will make and 100 times better than the would-be guest workers will do it at "half price"! We also offer you to watch a video of how experienced builders make a plasterboard ceiling:

Drywall in a short time has turned from a material of little use in repairs to one of the most demanded. Columns, arches, multilevel ceilings, false fireplaces - the lightness of the material in the work allows the master's imagination to unfold in full force. Even a beginner can make a drywall sheet, while observing all the recommendations and rules.

Peculiarities

The suspended ceiling is a single-level or multi-level metal frame, reinforced on the ceilings and walls of the room, sheathed with gypsum boards. A prerequisite is also the presence of lighting sources built into it.

First of all, you need to decide what constitutes a drywall sheet. If you do not go into details, then it can be explained as follows: this is a sheet of dry plaster, covered with cardboard on top.

Despite the apparent simplicity, the material has a lot of impressive advantages:

• With the help of the gypsum board, you can align very significant bumps and depressions in the ceiling, without spending significant effort. To do this, you need to take a liquid solution - and the advantage becomes even more obvious.
• Inside the frame on which the drywall sheets are attached, you can hide any wires and bring in all the desired communications, while leaving them invisible to the eye. And this is a big plus from the point of view of aesthetics.

• Any desired lighting can be mounted in a ceiling made of this material, which allows you to achieve completely unique lighting effects.
• Plasterboard sheets make it possible to create a multi-level ceiling, making the owner's imagination come true.

• Due to the free space in the frame, additional noise and heat insulation can be arranged. It is enough just to lay an additional layer of mineral wool between the ceiling and the false ceiling.
• GKL is mounted without using liquid, dry, which guarantees a minimum amount of dust and dirt.

Everything related to drywall, it is quite possible to carry out events with your own hands. This means that you can make an original design with minimal cost in accordance with your ideas.

Of course, it cannot be said that drywall is a material without flaws. Of course, they are, but they are more related to the installation of the material than to itself.

For example:

• Due to the fact that a frame is used during the installation of a gypsum plasterboard ceiling, the height of the ceiling is reduced. And, if the ceilings are already low, this can be a problem.

• If you do not have the skills to work with this material, then you can tinker with the frame for quite a long time: installation alone will be difficult, it is better to enlist the help of a partner.
• It is impossible to violate the technology of the finishing process, otherwise cracks will most likely appear in the seams and between them.

Device

GKL boards represent the widest range of possibilities to create a ceiling.

The main components of a plasterboard ceiling are the following materials:

• GKL sheets. They are chosen depending on the room in which the ceiling is installed, as well as the functionality of the sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to install moisture-resistant gypsum boards in the bathroom, and fire-resistant ones are perfect for the kitchen.
• Profile for the frame, that is, the base on which the drywall sheets are attached. It ensures the stability of the entire structure. Profiles are divided into two types: starting and carrying. The starting profile runs along the perimeter of the ceiling, and gypsum boards are attached to the supporting structures.

• Metal hangers to which the profiles are attached. It is possible to use conventional hangers or hangers with a bracket.
• Dowels and self-tapping screws for drywall.
• Finishing materials: reinforcing tape, putty, primer, fine-grained sandpaper, which is used to level the ceiling after the putty.

Views

A suspended ceiling can be mounted in many different configurations. Nevertheless, there are three main types, the rest are the basis for more complicated options.

Ceilings can be:

• single-level;
• simple two- or three-level;
• complex.

The most budgetary option is, of course, an easy-to-install and inexpensive single-level ceiling. One way or another, its installation evens out the surface of the ceiling, making it amenable to easy decoration.

On the basis of the first level, the following are built - in this way, differences in the height of the ceiling are created.

Multilevel surfaces can also be classified into the following categories:

• frame;
• diagonal;
• zonal;
• complex ceilings of other shapes.

The frame structure is represented by a plasterboard box, located in the form of a frame around the perimeter of the ceiling surface. A chandelier hanging in the center of the ceiling will harmoniously fit into the composition.

In a diagonal structure, each subsequent level divides the ceiling along a conventionally drawn diagonal, and not necessarily in a straight line: it can be a wave or an arc. Either way, it makes half of the room stand out. Since the gypsum board is a flexible material, it will not be difficult to form a curly line.

The zonal design highlights a specific area, highlighting the work area or recreation area.

Complex structures can be given different shapes: arched, patterned, curly. The shape can also be in the form of a flower, a geometric figure, or a spiral. It all depends on the owner's imagination and the style in which it was decided to equip the room.

Design

The design of the plasterboard ceiling can have an infinite number of options.

There are a number of nuances:

• If the room is spacious and has sufficient height, then it is permissible to arrange a multi-level ceiling and decorate it, for example, with stucco moldings, friezes, medallions, ovals. It is beautiful if the pattern on the parquet duplicates the pattern of the ceiling surface.
• If the room has a large area, then it can be zoned, highlighting, for example, a recreation area with a home theater or a dining area. In these cases, it is also good to provide appropriate lighting for each area with the possibility of separate switching on and off - the room will look even more impressive.

• If the room is small and low, then it is better not to pile up multi-level structures in it - one level will be enough. Large shades or a chandelier with pendants are useless. Spotlights mounted in the ceiling surface will look most harmonious.
• The cornice will add "air" to the space of the room if you make it small and let it go around the perimeter of the ceiling.
• The following technique will help to visually enlarge the room: paint the surfaces of the ceiling and walls in one color, preferably in a light range.
• After consulting an interior designer, you might consider installing a ceiling mirror.

• There is another way to visually "raise" the ceiling: by combining a stretch ceiling with a shiny, glossy surface and a suspended structure made of gypsum plasterboard in the interior of one room.
• The ceiling should not differ in style from the rest of the interior of the room. For example, in a room made in the Provence style, a ceiling with a mirrored surface will look strange.
• The most original type of ceiling made of gypsum boards is arched. The lightest arched ceiling is semi-cylindrical. The main condition is to correctly mount the base for the ceiling.

There are four main ceiling design options:

• single-level;
• two-level;
• three-level;
• curly (this includes arches).

Single-level ceilings are simple and reliable. For small spaces, this is the best option.

You can decorate it in the following ways:

• paint in different colors;
• cover with putty;
• paint by hand;
• paste over with wallpaper.

If the walls in the room are below 3 meters, then it is better to use light shades. Dark or bright colors can visually reduce an already small space.

Despite the fact that the ceiling is called flat, it should not have a perfectly flat surface. You can make the level convex or concave for a completely different effect. It should be noted that it is this type of false ceiling that is easiest to do with your own hands.

The most popular option is two-level, as for the three-level one - it is rather difficult to execute.

A two-level ceiling provides a wide variety of options, with their help you can give different shapes to the ceiling surface, and backlighting can add even more originality to the design. It is not difficult to build such a ceiling, but nevertheless, certain efforts are required.

If the height of the ceiling allows, you can do something like a "reflection": place the protrusion on the ceiling above a similar podium structure on the floor.

Structures made of gypsum boards, accompanied by thoughtful lighting, can look unusually impressive. The flight of design ideas can create original compositions: waves, a combination of matte and glossy surfaces, zigzags and ovals, hand-painted, 3D-wallpaper ("wooden", "sky", "sea and palm trees"). Of course, the design is not limited to one game of levels and colors, without highlighting the desired effect you will never achieve. And here LEDs and halogen, chandeliers and shades, mirrors and spotlights are used.

Multi-tiered structures have an extremely attractive appearance. It is best to construct them in a room with high and very high ceilings, for example, in a private house, since they "eat up" a significant part of the height of the room. It is more difficult to make them than, for example, a two-tier structure, and since drywall is an extremely convenient material to work with, this may take a little more time, and the result will be a stunning effect.

GKL stepped elements can be made to order by hiding in them, for example, ceiling beams or a ventilation hood. Built-in lighting sources are not even worth mentioning - they are a prerequisite for a multi-tiered fantasy ceiling structure.

A figured suspended ceiling requires considerable skill in its design and installation, however, non-standard elements (flower, solar system, clouds, starry sky) will appeal to everyone. Drywall has properties that allow you to create the desired figure or figures from it: you can build a structure from intertwined abstract forms, it looks especially good in rooms with a large area. An expensive but effective solution is patterns with small cells. A special chic to such a ceiling will give a "roll call" with small blotches of similar patterns on the walls.

An interesting option is the so-called floating ceiling. To create it, you need to select the shape (silhouette) that will be located under the ceiling. It is made separately from gypsum boards and is attached to an already finished structure. Thus, the appearance is created that the ceiling element is floating in the air. As a rule, this method is combined with highlighting the "floating" element along the perimeter, which gives an additional effect to the structure.

Mounting

After the preparation of the ceiling surface is complete, it is time to begin the installation. It is important to strictly adhere to the sequence of actions and technologies required to carry out each step.

GKL ceiling can be:

• hemming;
• suspension.

In a hemmed structure, drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling surface using a wooden beam or a bent profile, which is called a filing. This is a great option for rooms with low ceiling heights. It is also well suited for installation in a house with wooden floors. The disadvantage of this type is the inability to hem drywall sheets with such high quality to get a perfectly flat surface.

For a suspended ceiling, gypsum board slabs are mounted on a frame made of profiles fixed to suspensions. This design is ideal for hiding ventilation, wires, lighting.

Cutting drywall sheets is most convenient if they are located vertically and leaned against the wall.

The installation of a false ceiling begins with the installation of the frame.

The secrets of this stage are described in the step-by-step instructions:

• After the marking on the ceiling has been made, the guide profile (already drilled) is attached to the walls. Its edge is attached to the marking line. The elements of the wireframe will be located below this mark. This is an important step if you decide to make the ceiling yourself.
• Having pasted over the guide profiles with a sealing tape, they are fixed on the dowels. The dowels should be screwed on in advance.

• Fastening hangers every 0.5 m. The initial step from the wall is 0.25 m. You need to attach the hangers to the anchors. It is important to take into account that drilling creates dust, so all work of this plan is best done with protective goggles and a respirator. When the weights are fixed, their edges need to be bent.
• The next step is to install the ceiling profile. After installation, it must be fixed to the rail. Self-tapping screws without a drill will help with this.
• After that, you need to make jumpers - they strengthen the structure. It is imperative to check the position of the profiles using the level. The jumpers are fixed with "crabs".

• If insulation is needed, then mineral wool is placed in the jumpers. It has both the property of thermal insulation and absorbs noise. Working with mineral wool also necessarily requires the use of a respirator, in addition, gloves are required.
• The installation of the crate is completed, the next thing to do is the wiring of the electrical cable. The wires must be in a corrugated sleeve - in no case should the communication parts be allowed to press or hang on the frame.

• After that, you can start sheathing the frame with gypsum boards. All sheets must be prepared in advance: in the lying position they must be stored for some time in the very room where they will be mounted. In addition, holes for fixtures must be made in them.
• Plasterboard sheathing begins from the corner, fastening occurs on self-tapping screws every 15 cm.
• Sheets are not installed end-to-end: it is imperative to leave 4-5 mm between them.

The installation of the ceiling is over, you can proceed to finishing, but only after the seams have been completed. This is very important, because if the seams are not properly sealed, then this is fraught with cracks throughout the entire ceiling covering. You can do this with a serpyanka mesh or putty.

If the method of filling seams is chosen, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

• impregnation of joints with a primer with acrylates;
• when dry, dilute the putty mixture, for example, gypsum;
• fill the seams with a mixture and level with a spatula (a wide one is suitable);
• additionally do the same in the gaps between the sheets and the caps of the screws;

• when dry, glue the serpentine and putty;
• apply a finishing filler with a maximum thickness of 1.5 cm;
• rub off roughness with fine grain grinding;
• remove dust with a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner;
• apply a primer with acrylic.

After that, surface repairs will not be needed for a very long time, and finishing work can begin.

Project. The properties of drywall are such that they allow you to create structures of any complexity. But, the more complex the future design, the more accurate the calculation and plan should be. As with any job, a project is needed to install a false ceiling. This includes a graphical representation, perhaps an estimate or list of required materials, and a sequence of actions. In addition to the list of materials, you must also calculate the required amount.

The project of a ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard should ideally include:

• Sketch (drawing), which contains an image of the future structure. The sketch should be large-scale and colored.
• The drawing is a reflection of all the elements of the supporting structure. If there are two or more ceiling levels, the drawing may contain more than one sheet.
• Calculation of materials. The more carefully it is drawn up, the less likely it is that compliance with the installation technology will be violated.

If you plan to do the installation yourself, it is better to consult with professionals, taking the project with you. So it will be easier for them to find the error and point out it, which will help to avoid losses in the quality of the future design.

When creating a sketch, keep in mind the following constant positions:

• area of ​​the room;
• ceiling height and shape;
• floor and wallpaper colors, patterns on them;
• the style in which the room is decorated;
• design and dimensions of furniture in the room.

Having drawn a sketch, it is advisable to transfer it to tracing paper. Subsequently, tracing paper will be superimposed on the skeleton drawing to clarify the final design.

If you put all of the above on one sheet, the drawing will contain too much information and look overwhelmed.

In the case of planning a ceiling with one level, the lathing cell is 0.5x0.6 m.If several tiers are planned or something massive will be placed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier or a mirror, the cell size is reduced to 0.5x0.4 m. the distance between the suspensions - from 1 m will decrease to 0.5-0.6 m.

The drawing of the lathing of the first tier should contain all the information about the attachment points and the passage of the profiles, the tab for the lamps, the points of installation of the suspensions. The same should be contained in the drawings of all subsequent tiers.

After finishing drawing up drawings and adjusting the sketch by superimposing them on top of each other, you need to proceed to calculations. They should take into account everything: from the number of sheets of drywall to cans with putty. In addition, if the installation is planned to be done by hand, then a separate list should be drawn up, which should reflect the availability of the necessary tools.

Upon completion of the calculations, you need to transfer the graphic part of the project to the ceiling surface. The more precisely this is done, the more correct, smoother and more durable the future suspended ceiling will be. After marking the ceiling, you can get a rough idea of ​​what the future object will look like. If this is not what you wanted, you need to make adjustments.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to make a number of preparatory measures on the surface of the ceiling, namely:

• Clean the old topcoat. This can be done using, for example, a spatula.
• Remove with special antiseptics stains of mold, grease, rust, mildew.
• Putty the cracked areas. For this purpose, it is better to take a cement-based putty.
• Prime the coating with a compound that contains an antiseptic (color or varnish will be used correctly). This condition is imperative, otherwise the appearance of stains on the ceiling is inevitable. It is also one of the activities to help level the surface.

After carrying out all these actions, the surface is ready. After waiting for the primer to dry, you need to de-energize the room in which the ceiling is planned to be installed, and installation can begin.

Instruments. Preparing tools and fixtures is an important preparatory stage of work. Unfortunately, due attention is not always paid to it, as a result of which work constantly has to be interrupted, since there is either not enough accessories, or tape measures at hand. Therefore, it is better to prepare in advance everything that you may need, and not to be distracted during the work.

To install a suspended ceiling, you need the following:

• guide and ceiling profile;
• u-shaped suspensions;
• profile connectors or "crabs";
• dowels and screws, and best of all - anchors;
• drywall sheets;

• self-tapping screws (both for metal and for gypsum board);
• sealing tape;
• finishing material;
• hydro and thermal insulation material.

There are several rules that must be followed when carrying out repair or finishing work:

• You should not try to save on materials, for example, on a metal profile. The cheaper it is, the thinner it is, accordingly, it will bend and hold the structure poorly. Having made the right choice, the master ensures the reliability and durability of the structure.
• It is good if the master has levels of two sizes: one up to 1 m high, the second 2-2.5 m. If there is a laser level and the skills to use it, then two levels are not needed.
• The thickness of drywall sheets should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise a different frame (stiffer) and a different sequence of installation steps are needed.
• It is important to take into account the purpose of the room in which the ceiling is mounted, and select the material taking it into account. For example, for installation in a bathroom, drywall sheets must be moisture resistant, that is, ordinary gypsum boards will not work.

Lighting

The choice of lighting for a suspended ceiling is a very important point, because lamps can make a composition a highlight of an interior or completely kill it with their tasteless combination.

They usually use recessed spotlights., then the lighting can be made multi-position. Most often, they use halogen lamps, and the body is metal, glass, brass or thermoplastic. In addition, the luminaires can be painted in a variety of sophisticated shades, such as polished and matt brass, bronze, matt or black chrome, to make them even more attractive.

To illuminate multi-level ceiling surfaces in the background, fluorescent lamps, sometimes neon and duralight, are used.

As a point, lighting sources with halogen lamps are preferable, since when they are installed, the ceiling height does not decrease as much as when installing lamps with standard lamps - this is convenient when the ceilings in the room are already low.

Halogen lamps are classified as warm-toned light sources close to the white spectrum, so they do not distort the shades in the room. It is better not to touch the glass surface of the lamp with your hands - there is a high probability that greasy stains will remain. This, in turn, will lead to the fact that the glass of the bulb melts at the point of contact. It is best to use a clean cloth glove or just a clean cloth to do this.

When installing lamps, one should not forget about fire regulations and rules, for example, about ensuring a sufficient distance between the ceiling and the ceiling. When using a dimmer as a switch (in order to smoothly control the brightness of the lighting), you do not need to install protection on the lamps.

The selection of spotlights is carried out in accordance with the purpose of the room and the presence of the number of windows in it. LED or energy saving lamps are best suited for this. Thanks to spotlights, the room can be divided into zones, for example, in a studio apartment.

Transformers are usually located behind gypsum boards on a false ceiling, and can be accessed through lamp holes. It is better if there are several transformers in one room - one for a group of lamps. So, in case of failure of one, the rest will continue to work. The likelihood that all transformers will burn out at once is extremely small. In addition, one large and heavy transformer can act too hard on drywall sheets.

Transformers are divided into the following types:

• induction;
• electronic.

Induction is heavier, but more reliable and cheaper. Electronic ones are lighter, but more expensive and break more often.

The question "how many lamps are required to illuminate one room" is individual for each owner. This problem is easily solved when sketching a sketch of the future ceiling and markings. Illumination of a living room in an average city apartment will require an average of 12 50 W lamps. And it is better if the switch is two- or three-key, thereby making it possible to adjust the intensity of lighting or highlight the area of ​​the room where it is needed.

Also an interesting solution would be to install a dimmer that adjusts the overall brightness of the lighting in the room. It's functional as well as beautiful. In addition, the dimmer will cut energy consumption by more than half and extend the life of halogen lamps. This is because the lamp operates more in milder temperature conditions, as it heats up smoothly and gradually decreases brightness.

Of course, installing spotlights together with halogen bulbs will be more costly, but later on this will create significant energy savings.

To mount a suspended ceiling with light sources, you need to mark the drywall sheets for the holes for them, and then start drilling with an electric drill with a crown attachment. You need to drill holes only after the purchase of the fixtures takes place, since there is no standard size for holes. Putty is only possible after all holes have been drilled.

LED lighting is divided into the following types:

• dome;
• linear;
• directional light LEDs;
• LED panels.

White fluorescent lamps are used for the most part to illuminate the multilevel ceiling surface in the background. Such lamps are placed next to each other so as not to interrupt the light surface on the ceiling. Taking this into account, you can calculate how many lamps are required. As a result, the lighting should be soft, diffused, and comfortable for the eyes.

If the perimeter of the ceiling surface is too large and you need a lot of lamps, you can use alternative options. For example, duralight, which is a flexible plastic light cord-tube. Miniature incandescent lamps assembled into a garland are pressed into it. For an apartment, you can use the fixing modification - it glows continuously.

Duralight is cheap, easy to install, durable, has a large selection of colors, does not require a large "visor" in the ceiling for installation, and consumes a small amount of electricity. The downside is low lighting, but it's easy to fix by wrapping it two or three times instead of once.

Speaking about an electroluminescent wire (cold neon), it should be noted that it is essentially a flexible PVC cord, into which a current-carrying wire is sealed. This cord is easy to cut and solder - this is its difference with duralight. It is durable, it can be laid out in various configurations, its light is dazzlingly beautiful at night, it is invisible in the daytime. The scope of its application is very wide.

Electrical wiring should be installed in compliance with a number of necessary conditions:

• This must be done before the start of finishing work, before installing drywall sheets on the crate.
• Like any other work on electrical installation, you should start with the development of a plan, which will provide for what type of wiring will be installed, a diagram is drawn with the required number of switches, as well as distribution boxes, cartridges and other devices. Also on the diagram, the places for their installation should be determined in such a way that it is convenient to use them.

• The connection of wires in places where they are broken must be connected only by means of an adapter block - twisting is unacceptable, especially for wires, the material for which is copper or aluminum.
• The wires must be marked.
• The wires must not come into contact with metal. They can be laid near pipelines, for example, with gas, only at an interval of at least 40 cm.
• Laying of wires in bundles is inadmissible. In addition, it is forbidden to lay wires if the gaps are less than 3 mm between each one.
• Connecting and branching wires in rooms is possible only with the help of junction and branch boxes.

Modern decor trends do not imply the use of chandeliers with pendants for lighting a room. Nevertheless, there are good examples of a classic style solution, when a chandelier is very appropriate. But, having decided to hang it, you need to take care of strengthening the ceiling structure in the place where this will happen, since the gypsum boards are not designed to withstand such a weight.

Subtleties of operation and maintenance

It is not difficult to take care of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling. So that it does not lose its attractiveness for a long time, you periodically need to wipe it with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. If there is a lot of dust, then the ceiling can be vacuumed, after making sure that the brush is clean. If in doubt, it is advisable to wash the brush with soap and dry thoroughly. If this is neglected, dark lines may remain on the ceiling from the brush.

Light sources (be they chandeliers or lamps) also need care. They should be wiped with a dry, clean cloth, bearing in mind that they are energized. If a yellowish coating has formed around the lamps, then it can be removed with a special felt-tip pen.

Dust and dirt spots are removed with a slightly damp cloth or viscose cloth. If the dirt is strong, you can try dishwashing detergent, or if there are large stains, it is better to freshen up the paint on the ceiling surface.

To avoid mistakes common to beginners, it is important to consider some of the features of drywall:

• In order for the gypsum to give away unnecessary moisture, it must lie down. That is why some time must pass between the delivery of the gypsum boards to the room where the installation will be carried out, and the installation itself. Otherwise, the sheets may deform.
• Work with drywall should be carried out in a room whose temperature is constant and not lower than +10 C. In addition, in these temperature conditions, the gypsum board must be at least 4 days - two days before installation and two days after, only after 2 days can be repaired seams.
• The main rule is that before you cut, drill or screw something, you need to check and calculate everything. It is not in vain that such an important stage as design is present in the installation of a suspended ceiling. Only after completing all calculations, combining the sketch and drawings, marking the ceiling itself, you need to proceed to actions.

Beautiful examples in the interior

A two-level geometric plasterboard ceiling with spotlights and LED panels.

Original flower-shaped ceiling. The backlight goes around the entire perimeter.

A two-level ceiling, in the lighting of which a chandelier and lamps are combined.

The decoration of the ceiling area traditionally plunges the home owner into the abyss of doubts and contradictions. Today the variety of materials and technologies, design possibilities are so diverse that it is rather difficult to decide on something specific.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings

Drywall is one of the materials marked by the high popularity of the Russian population. Undoubtedly, have plasterboard ceilings and disadvantages, because nothing perfect exists in the world. Let's remember them without secrets so that your decision to hang drywall over your head is conscious:

• lack of elasticity (unlike PVC ceiling films);
• rather high flammability (in case of fires, drywall supports the flame);
• incompatibility with water (drywall is contraindicated in basements, bathrooms, etc.).

However, new technologies from manufacturers delight the user with the fire resistance and water resistance of some modifications, addressed specifically for rooms with high humidity and high fire factor. Stores offer standard, moisture and fire resistant drywall.

Advantages:

Tools and materials for the work ahead

Prepare your tools ahead of time to avoid distractions and fuss. The list of names for different craftsmen is somewhat different, because in the repair and construction business, as you know, a lot is decided by skill, the ability to use what is, not to depend on frills. Nevertheless, there is the main thing, without which the upcoming work is unlikely to be successful:

• drywall;
• suture tape ("serpyanka");
• guide profiles;
• powerful dowels for fixing profiles to walls;
• ceiling profiles;
• self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to profiles;
• roulette;
• construction knife;
• hammer;
• ceiling suspensions;
• anchor bolts for attaching hangers to the ceiling;
• docking crabs;
• goggles, dust mask (respirator);
• laser or hydro level for measuring the entire room;
• bubble level (ideal if its length is 2 meters) for measuring areas;
• screwdriver;
• perforator with a drill (it will be required for dowelling the profiles to the walls and ceiling);
• scissors for metal.

This is the minimum you cannot do without. Also, the list may include additional elements, taking into account the peculiarities of the "native" ceiling in the room. For example, if the composition of the floors is rough concrete, in which there are hard stones that interfere with the normal drilling of holes for fastening screws. Or let's say you want to install a complex multi-level ceiling. Then you need clamps and fasteners to connect the bearing profiles at different heights. Etc.

Frame preparation - measurements and fasteners

We work with a guide frame

Step 1. Find the lowest corner in the room by measuring all the corners, and ideally also the center. We use a tape measure. In the corner, which will be the lowest, put a mark:

• 7-9 cm from the ceiling if you plan to install built-in lamps;
• by 4-5 cm if there are no built-in lamps.

Step 2. We arm ourselves with the water level and mark all other corners at the same height as the first mark at the very bottom corner. Then, using the hydro level, we put several marks along the walls at the same level as the first point at each corner, connect them together - draw them with a pencil or chalk.

Use a ruler, a perfectly straight block, or a taut cord to keep the line straight. A simpler option is without tracing, but point-to-point mark the guide line for attaching the profile.

Step 3. We fix the guide profile to the walls. If joining seams are assumed on the girders between the corners (and this cannot be avoided in large rooms), it is necessary to insure further "passing" of adjacent fragments under the weight of the entire ceiling structure. We use pieces of dense material - plywood, tin or plastic - and, placing them over the butt joint, attach to the walls using high-strength dowels.

Sometimes in such situations they use a special sealing tape, but it is not always at hand, and not in all regions stores sell such goods. We do the same (sealing and fastening with dowels to the wall) at the corners of the profile.

Video - Installation of a frame made of profiles and hangers

We work with the main ceiling profile

Step 1. The most common dimensions of drywall are 1.2x2.5 m (we will say this is the standard). It is recommended to install ceiling profiles every 0.4 m - in this way, each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle. Therefore, we mark the ceiling with a bright pencil or chalk lines in 40-centimeter increments.

Step 2. In the places of the transverse joint of the sheets (that is, every 2.5 m) we install jumpers from the same profile. With non-standard sizes of drywall, respectively, we calculate the distances individually for a specific size. We fix the joints with "crabs".

Step 3. Determine the location of the suspensions: a distance of 25 cm from the first wall, then every 50 cm, and so on until the end of the ceiling zone. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling with anchor bolts (the dowels are not suitable, because they have no thread and under the weight of the structure, over time, they will inevitably be slowly pulled out due to their attraction to the ground).

Step 4. We attach the ceiling profiles to the hangers. We start the procedure from the corners of the room. Our wireframe is now complete.

Initially, remember the important nuances: plasterboard is sensitive to deformations, changes in temperature and humidity during storage. Store it only in a horizontal position, and before the start of installation work, the material should “mature” for a couple of days in the room where it will be installed - this adapts the structure of the drywall to local temperature and humidity conditions.

Sequencing:

• we calculate the material consumption in advance;
• we cut the necessary parts for those places where it takes less than a whole sheet;
• with a construction knife, we remove the chamfer on the edge so as to further ensure good penetration of the putty into the gap;
• we begin to fasten the sheets to the ceiling profile from the wall and from the corner, place the screw from the edge by 10-15 cm and 20 cm from each other;

Attention! We must "sink" the screw heads in the slots, check by touch. On adjacent sheets, we place the screws not opposite each other, but at random;

• we make sure that there is a small gap around the perimeter (1.5-2 mm);
• make sure that sheet to sheet is joined with a shift of at least one cell;
• we make sure that each sheet is attached at the edges and in the center.

The final stage

Seams must be given special attention, because the appearance of the future ceiling depends on the quality of their sealing.

Important points:

Remember to wear protective equipment when working with dust, primer, putty and paint. Wear goggles, respirator, mask. Precautions will keep you healthy and heighten the joy of your DIY plasterboard ceiling.

Do you want to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling on your own, but doubt that you can handle the job? Then this article is exactly what you need. In it, all the works are described in great detail so that any person can understand them. You just have to repeat the steps, and you will achieve excellent results.

Workflow steps

To carry out the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, you need to know and clearly follow a certain sequence of actions.

The technology has been tested over the years and includes the following stages:

1. Preparation of materials and tools;
2. Marking the position of the guides and their fastening;
3. Frame construction;
4. Fastening drywall to the frame;
5. Sealing joints on the surface;
6. Ceiling putty and painting.

Stage 1 - preparation of materials and tools

This is the preparatory part of the work, in which you must collect everything you need. Even before purchasing everything you need, you must measure the room in which the work will be carried out, this will allow you to accurately calculate the required amount of materials.

To begin with, let's figure out from which elements the suspended plasterboard ceiling is assembled.

Material	Selection recommendations
Drywall	The most commonly used ceiling version is 9.5 mm. But you can also use wall elements with a thickness of 12 mm, their price is higher, but the surface will turn out to be more reliable. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to use a moisture-resistant version, it is easy to distinguish it by the green color of the protective paper layer. The required amount is calculated according to the area of ​​the surface to be trimmed.
Guide elements	The number of the guide profile is calculated based on the length of the walls around the perimeter of the room. The elements are 3 meters long. Choose options made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm
Main Profile	The number of bearing profiles is calculated as follows: the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.4 (this is the spacing of the elements). They must also be made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.
Fasteners for drywall	This includes straight hangers, profile connectors, and hardware products. Of the hardware, you need dowel-nails, self-tapping bugs and self-tapping screws for metal for fastening drywall
Insulation	If you need to insulate or soundproof the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame

If you want to ensure the best sound insulation of the structure, then a special acoustic tape is placed under the wall profile and suspensions. It dampens vibrations passing through the structure, and thus reduces the noise level in the room by half.

Now let's figure out what materials the ceiling surface is leveled with:

Putty "Vetonit" is an excellent solution for leveling the ceiling

Material	Selection Tips
Putty	Choose a composition that has high plasticity, fits well on the surface and is easy to rub. All these requirements are met by the products of the Vetonit company. I use it and have never been disappointed in the quality
Sealing compound	To strengthen the joints, you need to use high strength compounds. The most popular solution is Knauf Fugen. It is a gypsum-based mixture with high strength and crack resistance.
Primer	To strengthen the surface, it is necessary to treat it with a special deep penetration compound. The most popular are acrylic-based options.
Serpyanka mesh	It is necessary to strengthen the joints. The most commonly used version is 45 mm wide with a self-adhesive layer.
Dye	Used for surface finishing. Use any compound suitable for application to the putty surface

Now let's figure out the tool with which we install our own plasterboard suspended ceilings:

• Perforator for drilling holes for dowel-nails;
• Laser or water level to mark the plane. The usual level for structural control. Roulette and pencil for measurements and marking;

• Shears for metal for cutting a profile. The simplest manual option is also suitable;
• Screwdriver with PH2 nozzles for screwing self-tapping screws;

• You can cut drywall with an ordinary construction knife;
• A container and a drill with a mixer are needed to prepare mixtures;
• For application, use a narrow (10 cm) and wide (30 cm) spatulas;

• To level the surface, use a float and sandpaper or mesh with a grain size of P150 or less;
• The primer and paint are applied with a roller, abutments and hard-to-reach areas are brushed.

Stage 2 - marking the position of the wall profile and fixing it

This is the first part of the work, where the following steps are performed:

• The lowest point of the ceiling slab is determined. The level of the suspended structure must be 50 mm below this area. If you install recessed lamps in the ceiling, then the indent will be at least 80 mm, otherwise the equipment simply will not fit;
• Then you need to make a markup around the perimeter of the room. If you work with a water level, then you need to make a mark in one corner, and then, transferring the other end to other corners, mark the entire room. After that, lines are drawn between the points. If you have a laser level, then everything is simplified: you just draw a line along the mark;

• Next, the profile is cut into pieces of the required size, applied along the line, and the attachment points of the elements are marked. If there is no hole 10 cm from the edge, then it must be drilled and the location of the place for drilling on the wall must be marked. Drilling is performed with a hammer drill with a 6 mm drill. In order not to check the depth of the holes, stick electrical tape or tape on the drill as a guide;
• If you will be fixing the profile through acoustic tape, do not forget to stick it on before installing the guide elements. The self-adhesive side is pressed against the base of the profile and glued evenly along the entire length. Do not forget to cut holes at the locations of the dowels;

• The profile is attached to the surface, after which dowels are inserted into the holes. The screws are simply hammered in with a hammer. At this point, the fastening can be considered complete.

Stage 3 - construction of the frame

The installation of the frame consists of the following steps:

• To begin with, you need to draw lines every 40 cm. These will be the guidelines for the location of the ceiling profiles. That is, from center to center of each element should be 40 centimeters;
• According to the markings, suspensions are attached to the ceiling; they are located perpendicular to the line at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is better to place the mount in a checkerboard pattern so that each next row is not in line with the previous one, but with an offset. You can glue a sealing tape under the hangers if you used it on wall guides;

• If the length of the room is less than three meters, then the excess part of the suspensions is cut off with scissors. If the length is longer, then you need to increase the racks to the desired size. Please note that the extension is done using special connectors. They allow you to maintain the ideal geometry of the racks and ensure their reliable fastening;

• The profile fits neatly into the guiding elements and is positioned in the middle of the line. After that, you need to fasten the structure on both sides with the help of self-tapping bedbugs. Two elements are screwed into each connection; it is better to use fasteners with a sharp tip;

• The hangers are bent to the profile, after which you need to check the position of the element using a level. If everything is fine, then you can start mounting. Everything is easy here: from both sides it is screwed into a suitable hole with a self-tapping screw. The excess ends simply bend to the sides, they will not interfere with you;

• Jumpers are placed if the frame is made in 60 cm increments. They are positioned every 50 cm and are fixed with crabs, this is the name of the cross-shaped profile connector. The work is simple: the elements of the required size are cut and screwed to the crab with self-tapping screws;

If it is necessary to insulate the surface, then mineral wool is laid under the frame. You do not need to fix it, it will hold on perfectly anyway.

Stage 4 - fixing drywall

At this stage of installing the ceiling, you need to carry out the following work:

• A chamfer is cut off the side ends of the sheets. It is better to do this in advance than to work on the ceiling later. The work is carried out with a knife, the butt is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees to a distance of no more than 5 mm;

• Fastening starts from any corner of the room. The work is done by three people, two hold the sheet, and one grabs it with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws. You will not be able to cope with the installation yourself, so be sure to involve assistants. In order not to stand and not hold the material in outstretched hands, you can use mops or knock down a similar structure from the rails;

• Fastening is done every 15 cm at the edges of the sheets and every 20 cm in the middle. The distance from the edges should be at least 15 mm, so as not to crush the material. Leave a gap of 2-3 mm at the junction of the drywall sheets, the same distance should be at the junction with the walls;

Remember that the self-tapping screw must be correctly positioned on the surface. The cap should be recessed by 1-2 mm, and not stick out above the surface and not push the sheet. A diagram of the correct location of the fasteners is shown below.

• Thus, the entire surface is sheathed. Here you need to pay attention to the correct location of the screws on the joined sheets. It is better if they are not located opposite each other, but with an offset. An example of correct installation is shown in the diagram below.

Stage 5 - sealing of joints

Collecting plasterboard suspended ceilings with your own hands is still half the battle. It is necessary to properly finish them so that the surface is perfectly flat and does not crack after a year or two. Connections of elements are the most problematic areas where cracks are most often formed.

To avoid this, it is worthwhile to qualitatively strengthen them:

• First of all, you need to clean all the joints from dust. Just rub them with a dry cloth or brush them;
• Then the joints are treated with a primer. The composition is applied at a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Pay special attention to the ends of the sheets, try to apply the primer so that it gets into the joint;

• After the soil has dried, a serpyanka tape is glued to the seams. Everything is simple here: the material is gradually unwound and pressed against the surface. It is important that the mesh adheres over the entire area and does not stick out anywhere. You can cut it off with scissors or a knife, you should not tear the material;

• A mortar for seams "Knauf Fugen" is being prepared, you do not need to do a lot of it, since it sets in half an hour. The mass is applied to the joints and pressed with a spatula to fill all the voids. Excess composition is carefully removed with a spatula, the mass should completely cover the serpyanka mesh;

• The caps of the self-tapping screws are also sealed with small strokes. After the end of the work, neither joints nor fasteners should be visible;

• After the composition has dried, it is necessary to rub the surface with a float more to remove sagging and irregularities. There is no need for special quality, it is important to remove all noticeable flaws;
• Lastly, the surface is primed over the entire area. This strengthens the already applied compound and balances the absorbency of the substrate over the entire area.

Stage 6 - putty and paint

Now let's figure out how to align the drywall ceiling with our own hands.

The instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

• First of all, a putty composition is prepared. To do this, water is poured into the container and the required amount of dry mixture is poured (the proportions are always indicated on the package). It is important to thoroughly mix the components so that a homogeneous mass with the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained;

• Application is made from any angle. The composition is spread over the blade of a wide spatula and gently spread over the surface. The tool is held at an angle of 15 degrees to the surface and is guided with moderate pressure. Do not pay attention to the influx, they will be eliminated later. The main thing is to distribute the composition in a thin layer over the entire ceiling;

• After the first layer has dried, you need to walk over the surface with a spatula and cut off the beads, if any. Your task is to remove all noticeable flaws so that they do not interfere with the final leveling of the surface;
• The second coat is applied very carefully, try to level the surface as best as possible. Move the spatula in a sweeping motion. If there are influxes somewhere, it's okay, they can be easily eliminated. It is important to level the overall level of the ceiling so that there are no pits and scratches on the surface from the edge of the trowel;

• After the surface has dried (and this takes about 24 hours), you can start sanding it. The work is dirty, so be sure to stock up on a respirator and goggles in advance. Sandpaper is placed on the grater and surface treatment begins section by section. You need to rub with moderate pressure in spiral movements;

• The plane is checked using a light bulb or flashlight. The directional light immediately shows all the flaws, and you can easily bring out a perfectly flat surface, even if you are doing this work for the first time;

• If there are some flaws left, then the problem areas need to be putty, after which they are sanded with a float. After that, the surface can be considered fully prepared;
• The ceiling is cleaned of dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner, after which a primer is applied. The composition is applied with a roller to the entire surface, this will strengthen the finishing layer and improve paint adhesion;

• Painting is done after the soil has completely dried. Depending on the color, it may be necessary to apply 2-3 coats of the composition for an even color.

We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder and repairman). Yuri writes:

In old houses, during construction, little attention was paid to beauty, since the main task was to build quickly and reliably. Therefore, ceilings, as a rule, have different irregularities: protruding beams in wooden floors and differences in seams between slabs in reinforced concrete floors, as well as various distortions and recesses. It is good if the defects on the ceiling are not large and they can be eliminated with putty, but what to do if it is simply impossible to putty them? And if this is a new building and you need to close the rough ceiling? Here we will be rescued for a long time already known to us sheets of drywall. Of these, we will make a suspended ceiling from gypsum plasterboard sheets, which will close all defects, and behind it it will be possible to hide electrical wiring and other communications. In this article, let's take a closer look at what we need to install such a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands and the sequence of its installation from marking the ceiling to filling. We will also consider the technology and device for installing the ceiling from the gypsum board in step-by-step instructions with a photo.

And in the process of work, we cannot do without such a tool as:

1. Electric impact drill or hammer drill
2. Tape measure, pencil and building level
3. Water construction level (transparent hose 5-10 meters long)
4. Cordless or electric screwdriver
5. Ladder
6. Thread or fishing line (yellow is better)
7. Metal scissors and a construction knife

Material for work:

1. Ceiling profile on gypsum plasterboard CD-60
2. Plasterboard guide profile UD-30
3. Suspension plates
4. Self-tapping screws for wood 32 mm
5. Dowels 60 x 40 mm
6. Self-tapping screws for metal 10 mm (fleas)
7. Ceiling gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) sheets 9 mm thick
8. Self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm
9. Fiberglass reinforced tape (serpyanka)

Stage 1. Marking for installation of profiles

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? First, we need to make sure that the ceiling comes out without distortions and strictly horizontal. To do this, you need to knock out the zeros of the room. For this we will use the water level. It is difficult for one person to make such markup, so ask someone for help. In any corner of the room, with a pencil, put a mark at a height of one meter. We apply a water level to this mark so that the water level coincides with our mark. And your assistant at this time should move from corner to corner of the room with the opposite end of the hoses. In each corner, he will have to leave a mark at the water level. In this case, you need to be sure to monitor so that your mark does not go astray! All these marks (zeros) are in the corners of the room and will be the horizontal level of the new ceiling. From the zeros with a tape measure, measure up the same distance to the height at which we want to make our ceiling from plasterboard. In this case, it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of the drywall 9 millimeters and the thickness of the guide profile ud 30 millimeters. Also, do not forget that the minimum that will have to retreat from the rough ceiling is 10 cm, because a standard built-in lamp will take 10 centimeters in height.

Stage 2. Installation of the ceiling frame

Let's start with the fact that along the perimeter of the entire room at the height at which they decided to make a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we need to nail a guide profile ud to the wall using a puncher and dowel-nails measuring 60 by 40 millimeters and a step of 450-500 millimeters from each other ...

Having secured the ud guide profile, we take the cd ceiling profile. First, you need to cut it to the length or width of the room, then you can choose it yourself, as it is more convenient for you. The main thing is that it fits easily into the guide profile ud, if it is too long, then it will begin to bend. If it's too short, it won't hold. Ideally, it should be 5 millimeters shorter than the dimension from one ud guide profile to the opposite.

Having cut out the cd ceiling profile of the required length, it must be pushed perpendicularly into the ud guide profile. They are twisted together with special self-tapping screws for metal, popularly called flea beetles. The cd profile is placed every 60 or 40 centimeters, this is necessary so that the distance is a multiple of 120 centimeters. Since this is the width of the drywall sheet. And the joints will fall with this arrangement strictly on the profile.

So that our ceiling does not sag, but is even, we need to screw the cd ceiling profiles to the rough or old ceiling using mounting suspension plates. Strictly above the profile to the ceiling, we fasten the suspensions with self-tapping screws 30 mm long, or if you have reinforced concrete floors, then with dowels 60 by 6 mm. Suspensions are placed on each cd profile every 50-60 centimeters.

After that, through the middle of the room across the cd profiles, you need to pull a thread (preferably black it is better visible) attaching it to the extreme opposite ud profiles, which are bolted to the wall. Bending the suspension plate to the bottom, hold the cd profile with one hand so that it barely touches the stretched thread and fix it to the suspension with the already familiar flea on one side and the other. Please note that you need to fix it with a dowel or self-tapping screw closer to the edge of the profile bend in order to prevent sagging under the weight of the drywall sheets.

Using this method, you can make the suspensions longer or shorter and the gypsum board ceiling can be raised or lowered to the desired distance.

Note: During work, make sure that the rest of the profile does not touch the thread, as they can distort it.

Very often, cd profiles are installed not only along drywall sheets, but also across. Practice has shown that transverse profiles should be installed only when installing multi-level ceilings. In this case, such a profile must be installed only at the joints of drywall sheets. Thus, you can significantly save on material, and in this case, you will also have to refuse to buy crabs (special fasteners designed to connect the longitudinal with the transverse profile).

Step 3. Screwing drywall sheets to the ceiling frame

If the suspension plates are too long, then this is not a problem. They need to be wrapped up again so that they do not interfere with the fastening of the sheets. Before proceeding with the filing of drywall sheets to the ceiling frame, you need to think about the future lighting of the room! Think over where the lamps will be located and in what quantity, since the wiring for them must be carried out before screwing the gypsum board.