DIY table for hand circular saw - Patchwork quilt. Detailed portrait of a circular saw How to make a riving knife for a circular saw yourself

In this article we will talk about woodworking techniques for the home workshop. You will learn how to debug correctly circular saw so that it does not spoil the workpiece during longitudinal cutting. The article provides technical techniques and tricks when working with longitudinal workpieces.

Burnt wood problem hard rock(oak, beech, birch) when cutting along the grain on a circular saw, it can only be solved by sanding. And this is an additional operation, and quite labor-intensive. The appearance of scorch marks is a sure sign of incorrect machine settings, while the overloaded engine suffers, the disk wears out more and the workpiece deteriorates.

The most likely causes of scorch marks

Tarred disc. Resin can be quickly removed special means or rinse with a regular solvent (this takes a little longer).
Dull or broken disk soldering tips. They can be restored, replaced or sharpened in a special workshop, but it is easier and faster to replace the disk with a new one.
The parallelism of the limiters is misaligned.
Incorrect feed of workpiece.
Structural defects of wood.

The first two reasons can be eliminated relatively easily and quickly - by cleaning or replacing the cutting blade. The other three are more serious, and below we will tell you how to deal with them.

Method of setting the parallelism of the disk and the stop using improvised means

Set the stop 100 mm from the disk.
Take a block 60-70 mm long and screw a round-head screw into the end. This head, when the block is pressed against the stop, should cling to the tooth of the disk.
Mark this tooth with a marker.
Slide the workpiece with the screw to the other side of the disc and rotate the disc itself until the marked tooth is level with the screw head.
The force when hooking the screw head with a tooth should be the same at the beginning and at the end. This can be determined by ear - the metal of the disk perfectly reproduces vibrations. If the sound at the beginning and end is different, you need to more accurately align the sawing device in accordance with the instructions (for different models the methods will be different).
Professional models, the saw of which is stationary, have a workbench adjustment*. To do this, you need to loosen several bolts (with which the workbench is secured to the frame). Carpenter-type machines provide for precise adjustment of the position of the saw unit.

*Referring to part stationary saw, which is also called a “saw table”.

Precise parallelism setting using hour indicator

This is a more professional and accurate method, but it will require a special device - an ICH-10 hour indicator. In this case, the reference point for the stop is the groove of the disk.

Install a strip or block into the groove.
Install ICH-10 between the rail and the limiter. After this, reset the readings.
Using ICH-10, adjust the stop according to the instrument readings - the difference in readings should be zero.

As you can see, this method is much faster and more accurate (division value is 0.1 mm), but such a device costs about 20 USD. e.

Disk alignment trick

The sawing device is always secured with several bolts. Therefore, when adjusting it, it is best to use one of them as an axis around which the entire mechanism or disk will move (by millimeters):

Select the "axial" bolt based on the mounting location of your saw.
Loosen it and then tighten it a little more than hand tightening.
Carefully loosen the remaining bolts until there is some play.
Adjust the mechanism or disk to the desired position, focusing on the readings of the ICH-10 or the alignment device.
Do not press on parts of the mechanism to move it, but tap on reliable parts - this will be more accurate.
After achieving the exact position, tighten the “axial” bolt first - this way the adjustment will not be lost.

This method is relevant for any stationary circular, reciprocating or band saws.

Trick for a riving knife

The final step in fine tuning the machine is to check and adjust the riving knife. It's a strip of metal behind saw blade, which opens the cut, preventing clamping of parts. It must be strictly vertical and parallel to the disk. Parallelism is checked using the usual rule. For safety reasons, some models are equipped with pressure toothed plates - they prevent the workpiece from moving back (the disk rotates towards the operator). Their adjustment comes down to checking the spring force.

Sometimes when wood has high density, a standard riving knife is not enough - the unsawn workpiece tends to return to its original position and clamping behind the riving knife occurs and inevitable scorching occurs. In this case, craftsmen use a simple solution that has no analogues in simplicity and reliability: a regular spacer wedge on a leash.

Wedge for circular saw on video

How to make a spacer wedge:

After the workpiece has passed the standard spacer knife, insert a wooden wedge into the cut.
Next, make a full pass of the workpiece and fix the extreme position of the wedge.
Select a fixed point above the machine and select a leader along the length from the point to the wedge. It is advisable to use spring material.
Tie the leash to a fixed point (part).
After complete passage The wedge will be removed from the workpiece and remain on the leash.

For convenience when sawing many identical parts, you can adjust the length of the leader.

Correct feeding of the workpiece

Scorches and damaged workpieces are the easiest consequences of improper feeding of the workpiece. Even well-positioned knives and stops will not help if the workpiece is fed incorrectly - skew, jamming, reverse motion, or uncontrolled jerking of the workpiece is very likely. Given the enormous speed and strength circular saw, even a small, light workpiece can cause injury to a person.

Rules for correct submission:

Vertical clamp. No matter what angle you start the workpiece at, remember that it should be pressed tightly against the saw table at a distance of 30-100 mm from the blade.
Horizontal clamp. Close contact with the limiter will ensure smooth movement of the workpiece.
Wind and control the workpiece with both hands. This rule follows from the first two - one hand presses to the table, the other to the limiter.
For small parts, make or purchase a pusher - it will allow you to avoid dangerous proximity of your hands and the saw blade.

Use a comb clamp. This device is freely sold (price from 3 USD) and has many options. You can also make it yourself (especially if your circular is homemade) according to specific sizes. To do this, you need to make many cuts in the block and cut the “comb” at an angle of 75°.

Of course, when working on machines, you should not be distracted or do other operations in parallel.

Structural defects of wood

Typically, defective wood is rejected during selection. Working with such workpieces is fraught not only with scorch marks (they will definitely appear even on a precisely set machine), but also with injuries. In this case, the material can be clean, without rot or knots.

Main signs of structural defects:

Longitudinal curvature along the thickness of the workpiece. Craftsmen call such blanks “saber”. If the curvature is small (the height of the deflection is up to 10 mm per 1 m), the workpiece can be pressed harder when sawing. Workpieces with greater curvature are rejected.
Longitudinal curvature along the width of the workpiece. Popular name- “yoke”. The rule is the same as with the “saber”, but the permissible deflection is 20 mm.
The grain of the wood is not parallel to the workpiece. The most dangerous type of defect is when there are significant internal stresses in the workpiece. When sawing, they are released and it can behave unpredictably. The only option to use such a workpiece is to level it with a surface planer (reciprocal electric planer).

The first two cases can lead to scorch marks, the last one will definitely lead to it. Products from sawing skewed wood will also have a curvature and must be in a loose state after installation.

Conclusion

Timely inspection of the machine will save you from the unpleasant task of removing burns and scorches from workpieces. Remember that all manipulations with the machine must be carried out after it has been disconnected from the network.

Upon closer examination, you can find a lot of circular saws design features. Which ones should a novice user pay attention to?

1 of 1

In the photo:

Characteristics

Power, blade diameter, cutting depth. Key Feature circular saw is the outer diameter of the disk. This parameter determines the maximum depth of cut, and in addition, the speed and power of the motor (and therefore the weight of the structure) “dance” from the diameter. The thickness of the sawing equipment also plays an important role. A number of models are equipped with a thin-profile disc. It experiences less material resistance, which allows the installation of a less powerful motor.

Electronic systems

Electronic speed control Few saws have it, since this option is used extremely rarely (when sawing, not wood materials).

Soft start system designed to smooth out starting current, which can overload the network. In addition, smooth rotation of the disk is ensured, that is, there is no jerk at the moment of switching on.

Frequency stabilization system maintains disk rotation speed at high level when the tool is loaded. Motor thermal protection will reduce power and then shut down the motor if its windings become excessively hot.

Electronic brake. Some models are equipped with an electronic brake, which significantly reduces the time it takes for the disk to completely run out after shutdown.

Rip fence

Makes straight cutting easier. Almost every circular saw comes with this simple device. It guides the tool along the edge and thus makes it easier smooth cut. You don't even have to draw the markings. Such an emphasis does not guarantee an ideal straight line, but in some cases it helps a lot. As an example, dissolving boards into slats or bars.

In the photo: hand-held circular saw GKS 190 Professional from Bosch.

Sole adjustments

Setting the cutting depth. To set the minimum “overhang” of the disk teeth from the bottom surface of the board, the cutting depth is adjusted. By raising and lowering the saw body above the soleplate, you can set any value from zero to maximum. It is worth adding that adjusting the depth allows you to cut grooves.

Setting the cutting angle. Adjusting the inclination of the sole (from 0 to 45-50 degrees in one direction) is needed to make cuts at an angle to the surface, and is also useful when calibrating the zero angle of the disk. For convenience, the adjustment mechanisms are equipped with scales (millimeter and angular).

Rear sights on the sole

Makes it easier to follow the line. There are pillars on the front edge of the sole that make it easier to cut along a line without using stops. You don't have to look at the disc - keep a line in the desired rear sight, and the teeth of the equipment will follow the markings. It may be noted that a number of advanced saws also have a special groove on the sole for a guide bar, which ensures a perfectly even cut.

Riving knife

Protects against disk jamming. Many circular machines have a riving knife, although not all of them have them. It is installed behind the disk and prevents the sawn parts of the workpiece from closing, which could jam the equipment and cause increased load on the motor.

Package

Cardboard box or case. A circular saw is a fairly large tool, so it is most often supplied in cardboard box, but some models come in a plastic case. Such packaging is more durable, because cardboard becomes unusable over time.

Safety clutch

Protects against kickback. The jamming of the disk is accompanied by a so-called kickback, when the saw is literally pulled out of your hands. To protect the user from this dangerous situation, some circular saws are equipped with a safety clutch. If the disk is pinched in the array, this clutch will slip, like a car clutch.

Working on a round machine

Longitudinal sawing

Installing the longitudinal stop. Support for longitudinal sawing, which works across the entire workbench from edge to edge, is ideal for sawing artificial wood materials. However, when cutting solid wood (solid wood), such an emphasis can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut kerf in surface-seasoned wood will pinch the blade if not for a wedge knife, such internal stresses can also propel the kerf until it is pressed against the saw blade and becomes stuck or perhaps ejected . If the fence has front and back adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end is 25mm behind the front edge of the overhanging part of the saw, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Or install wooden block on the stop to ensure this clearance. For any stop installation method, it must be parallel to the disk.

Set the cutting width on the stop scale, make a test cut on the scrap material and check the setting. If you don't trust the scale, use a ruler and measure from the fence to one of the saw teeth on the fence side. Be sure to secure the stop before turning it on.

Saw wide board. When cutting a wide board with one hand, move the workpiece with back side(but not in accordance with the saw blade), and the other press the board at the same time on the table and stop. Load the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that you are the one who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed speed.

Sawing narrow boards. When completing the longitudinal cutting of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. A stand with a cutout at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use a second pusher to push the parts against the stop. Keep the push rods near the machine so they are always available when you need them.

Intersection

Edge cutting with bevel stop. In the case of an average circular saw, the adjustable bevel fence is relatively short, but often has drilled holes, with which you can install an additional long wooden stop on a standard support. Press the workpiece firmly against the fence with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the piece is too short to hold with both hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the stop.

Crossing the moving section. The friction between the large workpiece and the work table can turn cross cutting with a tapered abutment into a very difficult job. The ability to make simple, smooth crosscuts helps improve precision and accuracy of work results, regardless of the size or weight of the workpiece. The movable table section of the circular machine is longer than average, which can be rotated at an angle of 90° to 45° relative to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making multiple identical parts.

Starting bevels. To make a bevel on a round machine, set the appropriate stop on desired angle, and then prepare the workpiece in the normal direction. Note that the piece was pressed firmly against the fence to prevent the saw from moving it backwards.

To obtain an angled cut, tilt the saw blade.

Getting the same parts

Getting the same scraps. Of course, it is very tempting to press the workpiece against the rip fence so that the same segments are produced to the right of the canvas. However, the cut piece may be caught between the stopper and the saw blade and thrown towards the drive unit. The right way is to either slightly not bring the longitudinal stop to the disk, or to fix the separating block until it stops, which will act as an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Read:

DIY circular saw knife

This video shows how easy it is to do knife for a circular saw made from a regular rivet.

Spreading knife for circular

To be able to use CMT slim series actuators on the WARRIOR W0703F rotary.

Cutting out identical parts. Attach a wooden rod to the rack extension that will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

Folds, grooves and studs

Shaker washers. The pair is skewed. swings. The washer causes the edge of the blade to wobble as it turns from side to side and creates a wider groove than a normal cut. Another way. mounting the grooved head. Need to change standard installation table to another, with a wider slot for the saw blade.

folding. As a result, bending the workpiece results in two straight longitudinal cuts. The first cut is to the narrower edge of the piece, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide enough support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove the wood pulp. Make the second cut so that the cut of the wood is on the side of the fence, since the cut, sandwiched between the fence and the blade, can be forced out by rotating the disk as the last fibers are cut.

groove groove. An oscillating saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. Due to the lack of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, moving the rip fence across the width of the blade, make alternating cuts until you have taken out the entire groove between two cuts.

Comb cutting. To create the center ridge, make two identical stitches on the edge of one of the joint pieces. Make the first cut with the narrow edge, then turn the piece at the other end to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove cuttings from both sides of the ridge.

Performing a hairpin. Some machine tool manufacturers produce clamps for making pins. Alternatively, you can make a wooden template to hold the workpiece in place during processing. Fasten the screws with two wooden rods of the same thickness on a sheet of plywood measuring 400x200 mm. Both rods should be aligned along the long side of the plywood and leave room to place the piece between one of them and the edge of the plywood. The screws only use one. away from the saw. end of the bar. To prevent the pattern from changing, glue an extra stop.

Clamp the workpiece to the template and make one pass to trim one edge of the pin. Turn the piece over to cut the second edge.

Next, partially cut away the excess wood on each side of the pin to check its fit into the socket. If necessary, make adjustments to the fence setting before working on subsequent workpieces.

To perform the shoulders, fix the dividing block on longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned relative to the canvas.

If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders and then remove waste with volumes of one blade thickness per pass.

Read:

You can modify the template to make a bevel cut.

The joint in the spine is open. This gusset used in the construction of box products. This is done by hand. a very labor-intensive process, but on a round machine using simple device you can cut several of these connections in minutes. Use a wide-cut blade or install shake washers to select the lugs (grooves between the tenons). Calculate the distance so that a whole number of spikes are obtained, evenly spaced on both parts of the joint.

To create a template, attach a long wooden part bracket to the stop and set the height of the blade slightly higher than the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.

Cross a wooden block from hard rocks so that it fits tightly to the cut. Cut 50-75 mm from the rod and insert this piece of rod into the cut so that a short protruding pin is formed.

Reinstall the template at the end of the bevel and place the remainder of the strip between the blade and the template pin, then secure the template to the fence and remove the strip.

Place the first joint piece on the end and place it in the raised tenon of the template. Secure the workpiece.

Make a pass through the saw, then place the resulting cut on the template tenon and make the next lug with the new cut.

Continue working in this order until the entire series of spikes is completed.

The spikes on the second part of the joint should be offset so that they line up with the eyes of the first part. Place the second piece on the end as in the previous operation, but between it and the template, place the rest of the strip.

DIY Jigsaw Saw... A reciprocating saw based on a jigsaw – it can be! Now they are buying a tool that can simplify any handmade. A jigsaw and a reciprocating saw are also related to them - indispensable tools in the arsenal of a summer resident. Alas, why spend money on both, if, with little effort, one can certainly be converted into the other? Reciprocating saw or...

In this article we will talk about woodworking techniques for the home workshop. You will learn how to properly set up a circular saw so that it does not damage the workpiece when cutting longitudinally. The article provides technical techniques and tricks when working with longitudinal workpieces.

The problem of burnt hardwood (oak, beech, birch) when cutting along the grain on a circular saw can only be solved by sanding. And this is an additional operation, and quite labor-intensive. The appearance of scorch marks is a sure sign of incorrect machine settings, while the overloaded engine suffers, the disk wears out more and the workpiece deteriorates.

The most likely causes of scorch marks

Tarred disc. The resin can be quickly removed with a special product or washed off with a regular solvent (this takes a little longer).
Dull or broken disk soldering tips. They can be restored, replaced or sharpened in a special workshop, but it is easier and faster to replace the disk with a new one.
The parallelism of the limiters is misaligned.
Incorrect feed of workpiece.
Structural defects of wood.

The first two reasons can be eliminated relatively easily and quickly - by cleaning or replacing the cutting blade. The other three are more serious, and below we will tell you how to deal with them.

Method of setting the parallelism of the disk and the stop using improvised means

Set the stop 100 mm from the disk.
Take a block 60-70 mm long and screw a round-head screw into the end. This head, when the block is pressed against the stop, should cling to the tooth of the disk.
Mark this tooth with a marker.
Slide the workpiece with the screw to the other side of the disc and rotate the disc itself until the marked tooth is level with the screw head.
The force when hooking the screw head with a tooth should be the same at the beginning and at the end. This can be determined by ear - the metal of the disk perfectly reproduces vibrations. If the sound at the beginning and end is different, you need to more accurately align the sawing device in accordance with the instructions (the methods will be different for different models).
Professional models, the saw of which is stationary, have a workbench adjustment*. To do this, you need to loosen several bolts (with which the workbench is secured to the frame). Carpenter-type machines provide for precise adjustment of the position of the saw unit.

* This refers to the part of a stationary saw, also called the saw table.

Precise parallelism setting using hour indicator

This is a more professional and accurate method, but it will require a special device - an ICH-10 hour indicator. In this case, the reference point for the stop is the groove of the disk.

Install a strip or block into the groove.
Install ICH-10 between the rail and the limiter. After this, reset the readings.
Using ICH-10, adjust the stop according to the instrument readings - the difference in readings should be zero.

As you can see, this method is much faster and more accurate (division value is 0.1 mm), but such a device costs about 20 USD. e.

Disk alignment trick

The sawing device is always secured with several bolts. Therefore, when adjusting it, it is best to use one of them as an axis around which the entire mechanism or disk will move (by millimeters):

Select the "axial" bolt based on the mounting location of your saw.
Loosen it and then tighten it a little more than hand tightening.
Carefully loosen the remaining bolts until there is some play.
Adjust the mechanism or disk to the desired position, focusing on the readings of the ICH-10 or the alignment device.
Do not press on parts of the mechanism to move it, but tap on reliable parts - this will be more accurate.
After achieving the exact position, tighten the “axial” bolt first - this way the adjustment will not be lost.

This method is relevant for any stationary circular, reciprocating or band saws.

Trick for a riving knife

The final step in fine tuning the machine is to check and adjust the riving knife. This is a strip of metal behind the saw blade that opens the cut, preventing parts from jamming. It must be strictly vertical and parallel to the disk. Parallelism is checked using the usual rule. For safety reasons, some models are equipped with pressure toothed plates - they prevent the workpiece from moving back (the disk rotates towards the operator). Their adjustment comes down to checking the spring force.

Sometimes, when the wood has a high density, a standard riving knife is not enough - the unsawn workpiece tends to return to its original position and clamping behind the riving knife occurs and inevitable scorching occurs. In this case, craftsmen use a simple solution that has no analogues in simplicity and reliability: a regular spacer wedge on a leash.

Wedge for circular saw on video

How to make a spacer wedge:

After the workpiece has passed the standard spacer knife, insert a wooden wedge into the cut.
Next, make a full pass of the workpiece and fix the extreme position of the wedge.
Select a fixed point above the machine and select a leader along the length from the point to the wedge. It is advisable to use spring material.
Tie the leash to a fixed point (part).
After complete passage of the workpiece, the wedge will be removed from it and remain on the leash.

For convenience when sawing many identical parts, you can adjust the length of the leader.

Correct feeding of the workpiece

Scorches and damaged workpieces are the easiest consequences of improper feeding of the workpiece. Even well-positioned knives and stops will not help if the workpiece is fed incorrectly - skew, jamming, reverse motion, or uncontrolled jerking of the workpiece is very likely. Given the enormous speed and strength of a circular saw, even a small, lightweight workpiece can cause injury to a person.

Rules for correct submission:

Vertical clamp. No matter what angle you start the workpiece at, remember that it should be pressed tightly against the saw table at a distance of 30-100 mm from the blade.
Horizontal clamp. Close contact with the limiter will ensure smooth movement of the workpiece.
Wind and control the workpiece with both hands. This rule follows from the first two - one hand presses to the table, the other to the limiter.
For small parts, make or purchase a pusher - it will allow you to avoid dangerous proximity of your hands and the saw blade.

Use a comb clamp. This device is freely sold (price from 3 USD) and has many options. You can also make it yourself (especially if your circular is homemade) according to specific sizes. To do this, you need to make many cuts in the block and cut the “comb” at an angle of 75°.

Of course, when working on machines, you should not be distracted or do other operations in parallel.

Structural defects of wood

Main signs of structural defects:

Longitudinal curvature along the thickness of the workpiece. Craftsmen call such blanks “saber”. If the curvature is small (the height of the deflection is up to 10 mm per 1 m), the workpiece can be pressed harder when sawing. Workpieces with greater curvature are rejected.
Longitudinal curvature along the width of the workpiece. The popular name is “yoke”. The rule is the same as with the “saber”, but the permissible deflection is 20 mm.
The grain of the wood is not parallel to the workpiece. The most dangerous type of defect is when there are significant internal stresses in the workpiece. When sawing, they are released and it can behave unpredictably. The only option to use such a workpiece is to level it with a surface planer (reciprocal electric planer).

The first two cases can lead to scorch marks, the last one will definitely lead to it. Products from sawing skewed wood will also have a curvature and must be in a loose state after installation.

Conclusion

The most common injuries when working on a circular saw occur as a result of the workpiece “flying back.” Now we will talk about how this happens and how to avoid such situations.

"Take care of your hand, Senya!" (c) Gennady Petrovich Kozodoev

In most carpentry shops, the circular saw takes up one of the central places. or, as they are often called, circular saws - this is something that no woodworker can do without when carrying out their projects. But at the same time, this is one of the most dangerous machines in the workshop. Often, circular saws are operated in violation of safety standards: the absence of a saw blade protection casing, pushing workpieces without the use of automatic feeders and special pushers, a properly adjusted saw unit and rip fences. As a result, the workpiece periodically flies back. It’s not uncommon to hear from experienced and new carpenters: “It knocked out the workpiece, almost killed it. It whistled like a bullet near the temple. It flew through the entire workshop!”

Workpiece flyback is when the workpiece suddenly flies towards the operator high speed. The two most common types of injuries that occur are:

Defeat chest or heads with a flying billet. It’s good if you manage to get away with a slight injury or bruise
Injuries to the hand or phalanges of the fingers due to being caught in the rotation zone cutting tool. The person does not have time to react to the recoil and the limb, by inertia, falls on the saw blade. Lacerated wounds, crushed bones, severed phalanges - this is the sad result of criminal carelessness

The sad result of criminal carelessness

Lacerated wounds, crushed bones, severed phalanges. Do you need it?

There are three more. You can live

Forewarned is forearmed

Workpiece ejection occurs in several cases. Firstly, when the pressing force of the workpiece to rip fence. Secondly, when the workpiece changes position relative to . In both cases, part of the workpiece hits the back of the saw and quickly flies out in the direction of rotation of the disk, that is, in your direction.

Let's look at a few simple ways avoid knocking out the workpiece and finish the working day unharmed.

1. Use a riving knife

A riving knife is metal plate, installed in the plane of the saw blade in order to prevent jamming of the rear part of the saw blade in the material being cut as a result of internal stresses of the wood or when the workpiece is displaced from the axis of the saw blade. Correctly, the thickness of the riving knife is equal to the thickness of the teeth of the circular saw or slightly greater.

Riving knife

2. Use a spacer insert

Be sure to use an insert made of plywood, wood or plastic. It is installed flush with the work table of the circular saw and serves to minimize the distance from the saw blade body. This way, neither the workpiece nor the cuttings will be pulled by the saw below the table level and the part will not be thrown towards the operator

Soft plastic insert

3. Always use crosscut jigs

Another way to avoid workpiece flyback is to use crosscut jigs or miter blocks. This will allow you to secure the workpiece with clamps if necessary. This will also keep your hands at a safe distance from the saw blade. Well, the last bonus is always a high-quality and even cut without the risk of the workpiece shifting relative to the saw axis. You can easily make this device yourself. and most machines are equipped with tables with “T” slots for guides

Spend only 2 hours making the carriage

4. Don't start working without a pusher

You simply must use the pusher to make the cuts. This inexpensive and simple device will reduce the risk of unpleasant situations while working.

What could be simpler?

5. Install a saw blade guard on your machine

You will be surprised, but the protective cover is not an extra part that inexplicably turned out to be included in the delivery of your machine. Right now, remember where you threw it, find it and install it on your machine! Using this “Unnecessary thing” will allow you to play the guitar and piano in the future, as well as write comments on this post with all your fingers))

We hope you will take these not tricky tips. However, you already knew all this, but were afraid to put it into practice.