Rip fence for circular saw You can make it yourself using one of the options according to the proposed drawings.

What does a homemade guide have in common?- this is the base that moves along the plane of the table relative to saw blade, which is made of standard rolled aluminum (pressed profile of rectangular unequal corner section made of aluminum and magnesium alloys, profile number - 411158)

Dimensions of the shelves of the used corner in section (mm):

Length – 70, thickness – 6
width – 41, thickness – 10

EXECUTION ONE

The length of the corner is 450 (mm). In the wide flange of the corner, we will drill three through holes with a diameter of eight millimeters on both sides, with the same spacing between centers. We press two 8x18 pins into the outer holes.

An M8 bolt is inserted between the pins, from the bottom of the table, so that its threaded part fits into the groove, and the head of the bolt rests against the bottom plane of the table.

On top of the table, an M8 bolt, is clamped with an M8 wing nut or a regular one.

How it works rip fence for a circular saw?

1. Loosen both wing nuts.
2.
3. We tighten the wing nuts.

The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the grooves. The pins guide the stop and allow it to be moved relative to the saw blade without distortion (parallel).

EXECUTION TWO

The length of the corner is 700 (mm). Along the edges of the corner, at the ends, we will drill holes for the M5 thread and cut it. According to the drawing, we will make two guides from metal.

We attach them to the ends of the corner with cylindrical hex head screws (M5x25 GOST 11738-84). Screw M5 screws into the thread.

How does the rip fence for the proposed version of the circular saw work?

1. Loosen the thumbscrews.
2. We move the corner in the desired direction relative to the saw blade.
3. We tighten the wing screws.

The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the end surfaces of the table. Guides attached to the ends of the angle allow it to be moved relative to the saw blade without distortions (parallel).

We draw a marking (ruler) on the surface of the table to visually fix the position of the homemade guide.

In the next article, we will dwell in more detail on the working tool (saw blade) and electric.

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Circular and parallel stop

Circular and parallel stopping are perhaps the most important device on the round table. Therefore, I decided to take on this project with full responsibility. I don't spend a lot of time sanding and shaping, no need to fillet the bits, I think cut, glue, secure with screws and a hat case. In my opinion, additional beauty is not always appropriate, and strength is always necessary. When working with complex projects, I break them down into smaller components and work with them individually. Having a thin aluminum parallel stop at his disposal (photo at right), he had a few inconveniences. The problem is that for each new cut it is necessary to change the size of the stop installation, for this, by moving the stop, we take into account the dimensions at the starting point of the workpiece cut and at the point where the saw is cut, then fix it with two handles. It's inconvenient and time consuming.

Powder and parallel braking:

Step 1: Stop.

Cut three stripes laminated chipboard 1.1 m long and 8 cm wide, and then assemble them together to make a U-shaped profile. By internal dimensions profile, make five blank inserts for rigidity and insert them inside the profile, they will create a square section, the necessary stop. Plus this accent and the ability to use it on both sides of the saw blade (photo on the left).

Step 2: Create a guide channel for the stop.

Read also

The guide channel for the stop is made of two posts, has the shape of a U-shaped profile and is bolted to the end round table, perpendicular to the saw blade.

DIY parallel fence for a circular saw

The video shows a homemade emphasis With eccentric clamp and a ruler, as well as a homemade sawing machine

Simple rip fence (ruler) for circular saw

Simple rip fence(ruler) for circular saw. Ruler for a circular saw (option from AlfFisher):

Step 3: Mount the stack. Part 1

So, the circular and parallel stop now have a guide channel. We put everything together using a small piece of MDF in the shape of an inverted "T", this will screw in with back side stop and inserted into the guide channel. The width of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the T-shaped MDF blank, which will ensure that the T-shaped pattern is tightly placed in the channel.

Read also

Step 4: Mount the stack. Part 2

Align the stop positions using a metal straight edge to ensure that the stop is parallel to the saw blade. Connect the stop and T-piece firmly together. Working with the accent, I realized that hardwoods wood is better than MDF, replacing MDF T-shaped samples takes almost one day. Any disagreement in the finished settings will lead to changes in the general settings, be prepared for this.

Step 5: Stop locking mechanism.

The stop lock uses slots for the original stop. The locking mechanism is simple: a threaded bolt and nut, a hole in the bottom strip of the rip fence, and a wooden washer. By tightening the bolt, the block pulls the stop towards the tabletop and clamps it tightly.

Step 6: Conclusion.

For the prize itself beautiful project The accent doesn't pull, but it is made from scrap wood and laminate, the entrance was made and the bolts and nuts are not used from the factory units. Changing the size of cuts is now quick and much easier than the original stop system. I use the resulting niches in the focal “pockets” to store pencils, tape measures, rulers and others. necessary tools, as they say, they are “always at hand.”

emphasis for rip sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.

There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be accurate enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter manual circular saw- this is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving perfect angle(you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligned with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the strip like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Sleds solve only part of the problem. For longitudinal sawing you also need a side stop.

I glued together brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

It grabs the edges with a death grip.

A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made it from waste furniture board a simple pusher.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawing slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to do all this work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.

In the future I will further improve this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will install a removable riving knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I saw, the blade throws wood dust right in my face)
- I’ll finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

The circular saw is most often used for precise, even cutting of wood and wood materials, but can also be useful for cutting light metals and plastics. It must have a guide for the circular saw: a guide bar and a carriage, a rip fence. When buying a tool, you should pay attention to this. Power and number of revolutions per minute - labor productivity, quality of work, and the ability to saw hard materials depend on these parameters.

Homemade tabletop mini sawmill

A hand-held circular saw is a must-have tool in the home workshop of a self-respecting owner. To work successfully, it must have a circular saw guide bar. Saw blades are of considerable importance; the quality and accuracy of cutting depends on their thickness and the size of the teeth. How smaller tooth, the cleaner the surface that is being processed will be.

The well-equipped workshop has manual electric tool, which has a guide bar for a circular saw, made and configured with your own hands for successful work. As well as a special connection for a vacuum cleaner and bags or containers for sawdust. This is very practical solution, because during long sawing you won’t have to stop every minute to remove workplace. This saw is produced by Bosch for professionals. In addition, it has the ability to adjust the angle of deviation from the vertical and the cutting depth.

Choosing the right tool

Before purchasing, you should make sure that the selected tool provides the required cutting depth vertically and at an angle. An additional aspect that can make normal operation easier is the length of the cable. If conditions are not favorable for using an extension cord, you should choose a saw with a long cord.

Saws offered famous manufacturers equipped with a device for easy replacement of disks, which further simplifies the work. This is an excellent electric tool that can be used for small repair work at home or in the garden.

For those people who love to tinker, this mechanism is simply necessary. Thanks to its small size, there is always a place for it even in a small home workshop.

Multitool Attachments

Novice craftsmen doubt that using a hand-held mechanical tool can make a straight cut. This is true if you cut according to the markings, but you can make the job easier by using a purchased or homemade guide,

Woodworking hand tools, especially modern design, sometimes you are amazed by the number of auxiliary devices that help in cutting the material. The simplest auxiliary device is an ordinary stop on the base of the saw with an indicator of the line along which the cut will be made.

The most popular add-on is short guide with adjustable extension length. More complex designs They also have a roller on such a guide so that when it comes into contact with the edge of the material, the movement of the saw does not slow down.

Sometimes indicators are installed to show laser cutting lines and other devices that have the same disadvantages. All these mechanisms serve to provide information that the saw blade has gone beyond the cutting line. All simple mechanisms indicate inaccurate cutting.

Why then all these systems that do not allow an amateur to make a simple cut? Where is the mistake of this approach? All known woodworking machines for professional processing wood have a parallel clamping device for constant pressing of the processed material and rigid blocking. Often this stop moves. For professional tools, there is a guide bar for sale for the Interskol hand-held circular saw, which can be used for another overhead mechanism.

Then the tremor in the forearm muscles does not affect the direction of the cut, because it is controlled by a rigid stop. Some will say that surgeons do not use stops and are able to perform complex and precise operations. This is probably true, but their material is more susceptible to machining, and perfectly straight lines do not matter.

To reduce the cost of purchasing a guide bar for a circular saw, you can make it yourself. Thanks to this homemade product, the only thing you need to worry about during the cutting process is to firmly press the saw all the way and slowly move it forward. The materials necessary for the manufacture of devices can be found in every workshop.

For example, a panel made of thick plywood should have a width that is five centimeters greater than the width of the saw base. The length depends on the workpieces that have to be cut. Optimal sizes:

• length - about 1 meter;
• width - 50 cm.

The stop bar must be the same length as the length of the guide device. The width should ensure reliable adhesion to the panel surface - at least 3 cm or even much wider. The height of the bar is at least 12 mm. Optimal size stop: 100 cm x 3 cm x 1.5 cm.

One note when choosing a slate in a supermarket - it should have one thin side straight. How can I check this? Place the rail on a level table and check for any bulge or gap. Exactly this flat surface The slats will ensure a straight cutting line.

When all the materials have been collected, you can start making a rip fence for your circular saw with your own hands. First you need to measure the distance between the saw and the edge of the panel towards its long part. Add some 3 cm to the result obtained. This size will serve for center line, removed from the edge by 2 cm.

Then measure the width of the saw base and draw a second line. This size is needed to highlight the area where the saw passes. Mark the space between the lines with a pencil so that there is no doubt that this area is excluded from work and is intended only for the movement of the saw. When all the dimensions are drawn, start installing the rail:

1. Coat the rail with glue and place it along the second line intended for support.
2. Press with a clamp to ensure reliable adhesion.
3. Leave for 12 hours for the glue to gain full strength.

When everything is securely fastened, you need to calibrate the device by making the first cut. To do this, set the saw all the way, trying to make sure that the edge of the saw base is evenly pressed against the bar and make the cut with an even movement along the bar. It is this first cut along the stop guide that will allow you to calibrate the device for further work.

When the stop is ready, you can safely use it to get a quick cut. Mark the cutting line on the material to be cut. Lay a new guide along this line so that the working edge lies on the line - the saw will cut the material exactly in this place.

Having carefully laid it down and made sure that there is no tabletop on the other side of the material being cut, press the saw tightly against the stop and, moving along the guide, cut off the required size of the material. When sawing, you need to lightly press the saw against the device and against the surface of the stop - this will ensure a straight cut. It must be moved smoothly and evenly. The result will be a straight cut line. There are two interesting facts to note when using a handheld circular saw attachment:

In a carpenter's home workshop there is always a place for a homemade miter saw made from a hand-held circular saw. To make it, you need to have a homemade guide ruler and a carriage for a circular saw.

For making a ruler You will need several pieces of twelve-millimeter plywood and a metal profile 10x20 millimeters. The length of the ruler is 1.5 meters. Using a cutter with a diameter of 20 millimeters, a groove is milled to install the profile along the entire length of the device. The profile is secured with screws. A stiffening rib is fixed parallel to the profile line at a distance of 12 centimeters.

Next, the carriage for the circular saw is made with your own hands from the same plywood. The size of the carriage is arbitrary and is taken under the base of the saw. The carriage has a groove for the profile installed on the ruler. The basic dimensions are selected in such a way that the carriages lie on the profile and rest against the stiffening rib. In addition to the groove, there is a slot in the carriage for the saw blade to exit.

The guide for a circular saw is a very simple but reliable device.. In order to cut sheets of material, you need to secure the saw in the carriage with two screws, attach the guide to the material, aligning the saw blade with the cutting line, turn on the saw and, moving the carriage along the ruler, cut off the desired workpiece.

The manufactured device can be made universal and used with both an ordinary hand and a plunge-cut saw. To do this, just remove from the ruler profile pipe and install a movable rail to which the saw is attached. To ensure smooth movement of the slats, the groove must be well rubbed with paraffin.

Cutting lumber at an angle

To cut material at different angles you need to have special device for the sawing mechanism. If it is not possible to buy such a device, you need to think about how to make a homemade one miter saw from a simple circular saw, using available materials. In order for this device to have an angular stop, you need to have two structural units.

The first unit is the rotating device. It can be collected from waste. To do this, you will need a slab measuring 100x50x2 cm for the base. Attached to the base on an axis turntable in the form of a semicircle with angular markings - the so-called do-it-yourself protractor for a circular saw.

The second unit is the saw table. Its size is 100x25x2 cm. It is made in a saw table rectangular hole for the exit of the saw blade and a groove for the movable rail to which the saw is attached. The operating principle is as follows:

Jigsaw as a sawmill

An electric jigsaw can easily replace an electric saw when sawing small amounts of lumber and small sizes blanks To do this, you need to make a guide for the jigsaw with your own hands. The device is simple, even a novice master can make it.

From a board 800 mm long and 20 mm thick, make a guide for the base of the jigsaw. To do this, attach two 10x10 mm slats to the edges of the board with screws. The distance between the slats is equal to the width of the jigsaw base. At the ends of the board, attach slats with a length equal to the width of the working part and a height of 10 millimeters. In these slats, drill one hole with a diameter of 8 millimeters for the fixing pins.

Make a table measuring 800x400x80 millimeters. To do this, attach 60x20 mm slats to the chipboard around the perimeter. Install two M8 studs on it along the edges of the table length. The guide will be put on and fixed on them. Cut a slot in the guide along the central axis for the jigsaw file to exit. Make an additional window 120x40 mm for the exit of the file when cutting the material at an angle.

On the table, make a graduation using a protractor, marking the angle of 90 and 45 degrees. Install a rotary stop ruler according to the markings. The device is ready and can be used at work. To do this, you need to install it on a carpentry workbench.

Homemade universal slider

For all of the listed guides, you can make one universal slider that will fit any device. The slider consists of a metal profile and a carriage on bearings.

This design, consisting of homemade guides on bearings, is very convenient: easy to manufacture, easy to use, suitable for any guide device. The carriage has eight bearings: four thrust bearings and the same number of side bearings for fixing the carriage on the tire. A profile guide in the form of a rail is used as a bus. Rail guides are particularly precise, which is why they are used in furniture manufacturing.

The rip fence is an important tool when working with a circular saw. This device is used to make cuts parallel to the plane of the cutting saw blade and the edge of the material being processed. Usually, the manufacturer supplies one of the options for this device with a circular saw. However, the manufacturer’s option is not always convenient to use and in most cases does not satisfy the consumer’s needs. Therefore, in practice, you have to make one of the versions of this device with your own hands according to simple drawings.

There are several options for a constructive solution to this seemingly simple problem. All options have their advantages and disadvantages. Selecting a suitable design should be based on the needs that arise during processing various materials on a circular saw. Therefore, choosing the right solution must be taken seriously, responsibly and creatively.

This article discusses two of the simplest design solutions for creating an angular rip fence for a circular saw. with my own hands according to available drawings.

Peculiarities

What these design solutions have in common is a rack that moves relative to the cutting blade along the plane of the saw table. When creating this rail, it is proposed to use a standard extruded profile of a rectangular unequal flange angular section of aluminum or magnesium alloys. When assembling a parallel miter gauge with your own hands, other profiles of a similar cross-section can be used in accordance with the length and width of the working plane of the table, as well as the type of circular saw.

The proposed drawing options use a corner with the following sizes(mm):

• wide – 70x6;
• narrow – 41x10.

First execution

A rail is taken from the above-mentioned corner with a length of 450 mm. For correct marking, this workpiece is placed on the working table of the circular saw so that the wide bar is parallel to the cutting blade of the saw. The narrow bar should be on the desktop on the side opposite the disk, as shown in the figure. IN narrow shelf(41 mm wide) of the corner, at a distance of 20 mm from the end, the centers of three through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are marked, the distances between them should be the same. From the line of location of the marked centers, the line of location of the centers of three more through holes with a diameter of 8 mm (with the same distance between them) is marked at a distance of 268 mm. This completes the marking.

After this, you can proceed directly to assembly.

1. Drill 6 marked holes with a diameter of 8 mm using a needle file or sandpaper burrs that are inevitably created during drilling are processed.
2. Two 8x18 mm pins are pressed into the outer holes of each triple.
3. The resulting structure is placed on the work table in such a way that the pins fit into the grooves provided by the design of the circular saw table, on both sides of the saw blade perpendicular to its plane, the narrow angle bar is located on the plane of the work table. The entire device moves freely along the table surface parallel to the plane of the saw blade; the pins act as guides, preventing the skew of the stop and the violation of the parallelism of the planes of the circular disk and vertical surface stop
4. From the bottom of the work table, M8 bolts are inserted into the grooves and middle holes between the stop pins so that their threaded part fits into the slot of the table and the holes of the rack, and the heads of the bolts rest against the lower surface of the table and are between the pins.
5. On each side, over the rail, which is a parallel stop, an M8 wing nut or regular M8 nut is screwed onto an M8 bolt. In this way, rigid fastening of the entire structure to the desktop is achieved.

Operating procedure:

• both wing nuts are released;
• the rack moves to the required distance from the disk;
• fix the rail with nuts.

The rack moves parallel to the working disk, since the pins, acting as guides, prevent distortions of the rip fence relative to the saw blade.

This design can only be used if there are grooves (slots) on the work table of the circular saw on both sides of the disk perpendicular to its plane.

Second design solution

Suggested below constructive solution This DIY rip fence for a circular saw fits any workbench, with or without slots. The dimensions proposed in the drawings refer to a specific type of circular saw; they can be proportionally changed depending on the parameters of the table and the brand of the circular saw.

A 700 mm long strip is prepared from the corner indicated at the beginning of the article. At both ends of the angle, at the ends, two holes are drilled for M5 threads. A thread is cut in each hole with a special tool (tap).

In accordance with the drawing below, two guides are made of metal. To do this, take a steel equal angle corner measuring 20x20 mm. They are turned and cut according to the dimensions of the drawing. On the larger strip of each guide, two holes with a diameter of 5 mm are marked and drilled: in the upper part of the guides and one more in the middle of the bottom for an M5 thread. The threads are cut into the threaded holes using a tap.

The guides are ready, and they are attached to both ends with M5x25 bolts with a cylindrical hex head or standard M5x25 bolts with a hex head. M5x25 screws with any head are screwed into the threaded holes of the guides.