Bench vices are necessary equipment in the workshop of any man, without whom it is difficult to do in one form or another of work.

It is not at all necessary to place them in the garage; you can set up a corner for a vice at home, for example, using a table or an ordinary stool.

Why do you need a bench vise?

When processing or sharpening any part, it is necessary to fix it firmly and reliably, that is, to hold it in a certain position. The photo of the vice shows the operating principle of this equipment.

The parameters and dimensions of the vice are determined depending on what type of tool needs to be firmly held.

The design of a carpenter's vice includes:

• chassis screw;
• handle;
• movable and fixed sponge;
• base plate.

Main types of bench vices

Before making a vice with your own hands, you need to decide on the choice of work associated with it.

All types of vices are divided into two types:

• non-rotary have more simple design and they are easiest to make yourself. The part is fixed strictly in one position.
• Rotary vices are most often adapted for drilling on a machine. During operation, it is possible to rotate the workpiece without unclenching it.

The material of the vice body is most often made of durable cast iron. It is important to know that cast iron is not intended to be exposed to high temperatures, steel metal is suitable for these purposes.

If the work will be carried out with small-sized parts, you should not increase financial costs and make compact small vices.

A small vice with a ball joint base is useful on the farm for processing very small parts that can be secured individually. These are mini-vises with suction cups, installed on a glass or well-polished surface. But they are suitable for rare non-serious work.

Please note that it is wise to install soft attachments on the fastening part for working with soft parts, so as not to cause damage to them. A vice with the least amount of play when the jaws are fully extended is the ideal option.

A vice without rotary mechanism, unless, of course, it is useful in work.

Work on making a bench vice at home

Carpenter's vices, made independently at home, will save significantly family budget than their store-bought ready-made “brothers”. And a huge plus is that the product can be made according to personal preferences and for certain individual species works

It is absolutely easy to find material for the structure, it could be: a part technical pipe, used jack, old lathes, presses, etc.

And if you go to a metal collection point, you will undoubtedly find matching part for a vice, which will cost you a penny.

Classic homemade vice

There are many types of vices, but the most popular and traditional is the type with steel material. Such a vice will be much more reliable than a factory-made one.

The structure consists of:

Pay attention!

• a steel plate of at least 3 mm, but it can be much thicker;
• external and internal channel (120 and 100 mm);
• steel lugs;
• turning cutters 2 pieces;
• a small piece of reinforcement (rod for a gate);
• a nut (2 pieces), a pin or a screw of a certain diameter that corresponds to the rod;
• washer (2 pieces) of the same diameter with the lead screw;
• screw pair 335 mm;
• To secure the propeller chassis, a thick plate is needed.

It is necessary to separate the lead screw with washers on both sides of the plate. One of the two washers must be secured with a cotter pin or a locking ring, so that the part is completely removable; you must first weld the screw thread to it.

The handle should also be collapsible on one side, and reverse side It is worth welding it with a nut. It is necessary to weld a nut with a channel from the screws flush to the plate. To make the channel inside with the screw move easier while moving, it is recommended to lightly process it with a file.

Sponges are welded to the so-called ears, made from turning cutters. They are placed on right place When the lead screw is screwed in, the ears stand at the perfect distance from each other.

But you can also connect them with wire for greater convenience, so in the future it will be more convenient to fix uneven parts, the shape of which is expanded towards the bottom.

These homemade vices allow you to process larger parts.

Pay attention!

To perform work in a home workshop, it is recommended to choose the simplest fixed vice for the machine.

It’s not at all difficult to make them yourself; you just have to watch the videos and recommendations, which can be easily found on the Internet and first draw up the drawings correctly.

DIY vise photo

Pay attention!

In the vastness of the RuNet you can find statements like: “A real master makes a vice only on his own.” It’s not hard to imagine what a real master will say about this. Whether he is an amateur or a professional who lives by his own labor, he knows perfectly well which tools and equipment are best to buy and what is worth making from it himself. However, there are times when it makes sense to make a vice yourself. For example, for a dacha (bought ones sit idle there over the winter in vain, and they can be stolen), when working on the road and/or on occasion (I came to visit relatives, they asked for help, but they are not artisans at all). Unfortunately, given the current situation with the tool, there is also a circumstance that makes you think: shouldn’t you still make a vice yourself?

Cast iron and steel

The parts of the frame and the clamp of a bench vice should be made of structural cast iron - it rusts very poorly, is hard and tough, has a low thermal expansion coefficient (TEC), but most importantly, it is practically not subject to metal fatigue. Cast iron vices last not decades but centuries. Since “the strength of the entire chain is determined by its weakest link,” the jaws of the vice and the lead screw-nut pair are made from tool steel of various grades. A simple structural one is too plastic, it has a strong tendency during welding, and it rusts easily. Therefore, leave homemade vices like those in Fig. below, it is not recommended to spend the winter at the dacha - they can become completely unusable over the winter.

But this is not the essence of the problem. The problem is that now the jaws of vices purchased at a reasonable price often break during the first clamping; At best, with regular use, the vice will last six months to a year. When examining the fracture, it turns out that they are made of simple gray cast iron. The legs do not break, this is how the running pair wears out - the thread there is the usual triangular profile (see below), and the steel, it seems, is no better than St44. And the prices for certified vices with full specifications and a guarantee... let’s not talk about sad things, let’s rather remember something good from the past. As a result, the question arises: isn’t it worth making a vice yourself at home? Not to mention the case when you need to clamp a workpiece, but there are no vices within reach. They won't turn out better, but at least they'll cost less. Or for free, if there are suitable scraps of metal profiles in the trash, see, for example, the plot:

Video: homemade vice in half a day from scrap metal

Primitive from a block of wood

Most material processing operations require securing the workpiece, and your own hands and feet are by no means the most suitable device for this. Therefore, let's start with a vice made of a wooden block. To make them you will need 4+ hundred square nails or 150-200 mm and an ax. A rip saw wouldn't hurt either, if you have one. The type of such device is modern man will cause either laughter or horror, but the ancestors of the Stone Age would have shed a tear of tenderness over it - a vice made of a block of wood quite reliably holds irregularly shaped workpieces made of almost any material.

How to make a vice from a wooden block is shown in the figure:

A piece of log/log made of good straight-grained wood is split (sawed) as shown on the left in the figure; a crooked chip can be roughly trimmed onto a plane. The fixed jaw and thrust heel are attached to the “frame” with nails; the ancients secured them with sharp splinters solid wood. The nails are driven in obliquely so that the clamping force pulls them rather than bends them.

The movable jaw slides freely along the bed. Clamp – wedge; a wedge can be hemmed at the end of a branch or a pair of them. Some skill is required to trim the wedge(s) correctly: too sharp will tip the movable jaw onto the workpiece, and too dull will push it (the jaw) upward. But the clamped workpiece, due to the elasticity and viscosity of the wood, holds quite securely. So secure that you have to knock out a wedge to release the workpiece.

Note: Long workpieces can be fixed with a pair or more of the same vice.

What to expect from homemade

The described device is, of course, temporary - all its parts get wet quite quickly, even if the tree is crushing the tree. Therefore, let’s first address the question: what homemade vices should be made?

The clamping devices themselves various kinds an innumerable variety is used in technology; patents for them number in the thousands and tens of thousands. It makes sense to make a vice yourself, firstly, the most commonly used ones. Secondly, they do not require special materials, production equipment or complex technologies for production.

An ordinary bench vice (item 1 in the figure) will have to be made non-rotating. Otherwise, you will have to look for either a ready-made neck-skirt pair (see below), which can also be taken away during assembly by welding, or the opportunity to use a shaping machine (simply - shaping). Of which there are very few left in operation, labor- and energy-intensive shaping processing is increasingly being replaced by precision casting, stamping and robots.

Note: in a shaping machine, the workpiece is clamped motionless, and the cutter, rotating, moves along the longitudinal and transverse axes. In screw-cutting lathes and rotary lathes, the workpiece is clamped in a rotating spindle (on a rotary table in a rotary machine) and the cutter moves in the longitudinal-transverse (in a lathe) or in the vertical-transverse plane. It never occurred to you to think about how the flanges/necks of curved cast pipes, casings of centrifugal “snail” pumps, etc. are turned. parts of complex configuration? On shaping.

Adjustable (mobile) mini-vises, pos. 2 seem to be simpler, but their production requires particularly high-quality and, accordingly, difficult-to-process materials. The fact is that the clamping force of a hand vice is determined by the muscular strength of the worker. And the cross section of the vice parts decreases according to a quadratic law as their sizes decrease, i.e. fast. The paws most often break off just at the mini-vise. However, expand them functionality It’s not difficult to do it on your own, see below.

Conventional carpenter's vice, pos. 3, are part of the carpentry workbench and are inoperative without it. But next we will look at how to make a Moxon vise for woodworking, which turns any workbench (including even a desk) into an almost full-fledged carpentry workbench.

Here's what you really need to do yourself home handyman, so this is a single-axis machine vice (a simple fixed table) for a drilling machine, pos. 4. They can also be used independently (separately from the machine) for a wide variety of work. The material for machine tools is the usual one that is widely available; Literally nothing is required to produce a machine vice that is not inferior to a branded one.

Jewelry vices, manual (item 5) and tabletop (item 6) are the most convenient things for small precision work. But alas, their production requires special materials and equipment, which is available at every general machine-building plant. At home, you can make good substitutes for “frog” vices, pos. 7, which, by the way, are often included in the set of desktop jewelry vices, pos. 8.

But with an angular vice (item 9) for clamping parts connected at an angle, the matter, as they say, is deaf. It is possible to make something similar with your own hands (item 10), but, firstly, it turns out that it is very difficult to ensure clamping at a fixed angle of exactly 90 degrees, and if you succeed, then the angle then quickly “floats”. There’s no need to talk about a homemade corner vise with an adjustable clamping angle. The same applies to 2-3 coordinate manual machine vices (pos. 11-14) and, for example, devices for tying fishing flies (pos. 15), which are no longer a vice, but a highly specialized machine.

Locksmith

The design of a hand bench vice is shown in Fig. The shaped screw nut is fixedly fixed in the frame tunnel; it also includes the shank of the clamp, called the slider. The sections of the tunnel and the slide are also shaped (of complex configuration) and correspond to each other.

As has already been said, you will have to abandon the rotation of the vice in the horizontal plane: for this you need to machine a neck on the base plate, and a skirt on the bottom of the bed. This does not require ultra-precision, but special equipment is required, see above.

The second problem is paws with sponges. The paws must be very rigid so that the clamped part does not react, and at the same time viscous so that they do not break. Therefore the most cheap material The legs of a good vice along with the clamp and bed are made of structural cast iron, but it is poorly processed, and the clamp and bed are cast. You can’t set a cupola furnace or electric furnace at 1700-1800 degrees at home, so we forget about casting ferrous metals.

However, cast iron is also very hard and quite fragile, and therefore paws without jaws can either damage the part or crumble on it themselves. Jaws made of hard, wear-resistant and at the same time very elastic special steel solve the problem. It would be possible to make all the vices from it, but their price then... You haven’t come across a tabletop vice at a price of... $1 for also 1 mm jaw width? These are all-steel ones, but we need to think about how to make a frame and a vice clamp, suitable for at least occasional use, from ordinary structural steel.

Running pair

But what problems arise with that seem insurmountable is with the running pair of vices. It seems nothing complicated: a screw with a nut or a threaded hole in the frame. There is a groove machined in the neck of the screw; It seems that you can select it with a file by clamping a screw wrapped in thin aluminum by the thread into the chuck of a drilling machine or a drill mounted on a table. In the clamp (or in the slider of a vice assembled from individual parts), the screw is fixed with a fork grip, see fig. right.

The thing is that all these parts have to take on huge workloads. If you lean on the knob with a force of approx. 20 kgf (nonsense for a normal adult man), then the thread with the neck of the screw and the counter parts will require more than 120-130 kgf/sq.m. mm. In total, so that the vice does not wear out very quickly, the screw, nut and fork must be made of steel with a yield strength of more than 150 kgf/sq. mm; for a conventional structural thread it is less than 100. And a regular metric thread of a triangular profile will quickly wrinkle or stick together.

Drawings of the lead screw of a bench vice with a jaw width of up to 180 mm are given in the figure:

One critical point is bypassed here: instead of a groove on the neck, there are a pair of bushings made of ordinary steel. In this case, the fork grip can also be made from it. The screw retainer parts will have to be changed periodically, but that's all right. But how to cut a D20 trapezoidal thread? Looking for a running pair from an old vice? So, with a 99.0% probability, it is the “stroke” that is worn out in them, and the cast-iron frame, clamp and plate are still quite suitable for use.

It's not all bad

A lead screw and a nut for it for irregularly used vices with a jaw width of up to 150 mm can be found in almost any household, tool or hardware store or at the iron bazaar. New, the fly was not sitting. Where? From fastening units designed for a load of at least 450-460 kgf. These units are very important, and the steel used for them is just right, even better - a running pair of vices, which are not used intensively, will be quite durable and have a regular metric thread.

The cheapest option is a ring anchor for hanging heavy chandeliers or multifunctional exercise equipment from the ceiling and walls, shown above in Fig. below. Just make sure that the screw is either cast or the joint between the ring and the neck is welded (shown by the red arrow). Anchor rings are available up to M22 with a length of up to 450 mm - make the vice you want. The anchor ring M12x150 holds a load of 480 kgf, and M16x220 for a 150 mm vice is also suitable with a reserve.

The second option, “the class of the fly did not sit” will cost more, but perhaps at the price of scrap metal - if it is broken. This is a hook-ring lanyard, shown below in Fig. Of course, the ring part comes into play (shown by the green arrow). The advantage is that you will immediately have an excellent wear-resistant nut. The disadvantage is the shorter length and, accordingly, the stroke of the vice jaws: the lanyard screws for 200 have a length of threaded parts that is slightly more than 100 mm.

Note: some disadvantages of both - the vice knob will have to be turned for a long time each time, because standard metric thread pitch approx. three times smaller than a special trapezoidal one. The running pair will need to be periodically lubricated with grease or other grease - a “dry” vice with such a running pair rotates tightly, but does not press well.

Sponges

How a bench vice, well known to readers of the RuNet, works is shown in Fig. below. There is, however, a mistake - the locking nuts are also M16. The rear one, along the screw, is screwed on first and welded to the stud. Then the pin with the rear washer on is inserted into the clamp, which in this case is also the slider (“moving part” in the figure); the front washer is put on, the M16 front nut is screwed on and welded, and the eye for the knob is welded; this is already an M18 nut. Bed (“moving part”) – square corrugated pipe 120x120x4; the slider is also a square corrugated pipe 100x100x3.

So far so good, but the sponges are also made from professional pipe. Their working surfaces are smooth, but they need corrugated ones, but that’s not so bad. But the trouble is that even with just a little pressure, the lips will irreversibly separate (added to the picture). The jibs inside or outside will not help - the metal itself is unsuitable. The reader may have already guessed - since the problem is described, there is a way out. Even two, see below and next. chapter.

Note: The advantage of a bench vise made from sections of corrugated pipes is their low cost. Suitable pieces will probably be found in any scrap metal pile, see for example. video below:

Video: homemade vice from pipe scraps

The first one is also from RuNet: paws and jaws from the shanks of metal turning tools. On the paws there are thicker incisors; on sponges - less. But this, in general, is not a solution. Tool steel is very difficult to machine. Almost all that can be done with it in a home workshop is to saw off the shanks with a grinder, weld jaws to the legs and weld the whole thing to the frame and clamp. Tool steel has almost no resistance to welding. But it is also poorly cooked: the finished legs with jaws, when welded to the corrugated pipes, will have to be heated so that the frame/clamp will move unacceptably. And the times now are not those when worn-out cutters could be collected from a factory dump, and defective ones could be bought for pennies in a store." Young technician" With the spread of electric arc melting of metals in the world, tool steel has become a valuable secondary raw material, and at enterprises, used turning tools are counted individually. Therefore, we move on to the second exit.

Machine tools

As stated above, it is most profitable to make a machine vice with your own hands. They greatly simplify drilling work, and the material for the machine vice is suitable for almost any available material: from a channel, see video:

Video: simple channel vise

to plywood, see story:

Video: plywood carpentry vice for a drilling machine

And again sponges

The strength and stability of the jaws for a machine vice is even more important than for a bench vice: if a drill (cone, cutter) turns a part out of them, this can lead to serious injury. And so, we return to the question above: what are the vice jaws made of? From a corner from 40x40x4. In this case, the entire sponge will work not for shear, but for bending, to which the metal resists much more strongly. This is the case when less iron turns out to be stronger.

But not every corner of the same size is suitable. A drawn and cold-rolled corner (pos. A and B in the figure below) is unsuitable - the metal is rather weak. The jaws of both homemade and metalworking and machine vices must be made from hot-rolled angle (pos. B). Firstly, it is much stronger. Secondly, the range of its standard sizes is wider: if the thickness of the flange of a cold-rolled angle general purpose up to 0.1 of the smaller width, then for hot-rolled - up to 0.2b. That is, you can find a hot-rolled angle, say, 60x60x12 - the vise jaws from it will be quite reliable.

A hot-rolled angle is easy to recognize by the type of cut: the entire edge of the outer corner is always sharp (shown by the arrow on the left in the next figure), and inside it there is a fillet larger than that of a cold-rolled angle. If the vice is assembled by welding, both equal and unequal angle angles will do. If you assemble them with bolts, it is better to use an unequal shelf with a shelf width ratio of (1.5-2)/1 (a/b = 1.5...2/1). In this case, the large shelf is laid horizontally!

The design diagram of a homemade machine vice from a corner with bolts is given in the center in Fig. on the right are their drawings general view. The slider and bracket for the clamping screw are bent from a steel strip with a thickness of 1.5 mm. The screw in it can be fixed with a groove, because its fixation works only when the movable jaw is retracted and is loaded negligibly. On the clamp, the tail of the screw rests directly on the sponge; the screw itself is M16-M20. More about homemade machine vice from the corner see video:

Video: simple vice for a drilling machine

Improving the mini

Modern mini-vises cannot be improved much, but if you come across or already have old Soviet ones (for example, pos. A in the figure on the right):

Their functionality can be significantly expanded as follows:

• Drill out (carefully, not all the way!) the flared shank of the set screw, which holds the set clamp plate. You need to drill with a drill with short “poke” diagonally from different sides.
• The plate is removed and the mounting clamp screw is unscrewed (do not lose either it or the plate).
• A hole is drilled in a section of the channel for a bolt with the same thread as on the clamp screw.
• The vice is mounted on the resulting stand and secured with a lock nut (pos. B).
• In the clamp screw, through the remainder of the shank, a blind axial hole is drilled for the M2-M3 thread. This is not difficult to do, because... There is a conical depression left in the peg from the shank.
• A thread is cut in the axial hole.
• The plate is put back in place and is kept from falling out by a screw with a conical head (shown by an arrow in position B).
• The clamp screw is stored in the stash, sorry, stash.

Thus we get, neither more nor less - turntable for small drilling work. True, without an angular divider, but instead of it, a protractor can be attached to the channel base, and a pointer arrow can be attached to the vice bracket. The resulting accuracy of 1 degree is sufficient for amateur home work. And if you remove the vice from the base and return the clamping screw to its place, they can be used for their original purpose.

Making a frog

Jewelry vices in amateur work, as mentioned above, in most cases are replaceable with a frog vice; They can also be clamped in a regular vice. Best of hers homemade version– if your pliers or other pliers have a broken handle, at the top in Fig. To drill the jaws of the pliers, you need to purchase a carbide twist drill - a regular one for metal will not take them.

Homemade “frog” vice (locksmith’s clamps with fixation)

A simple replacement, if the pliers still don’t break, a frog vice made of oak or beech bars, a steel bracket, overhead jaws made of steel angle and fasteners, bottom left in Fig. A stronger option is a frog from a door or small barn hinge, bottom right. But you will have to work on it using a regular vice. The workpiece may need to be tempered by heating until red hot and then cooling slowly.

Carpentry

The Moxon Carpenter's Vise is designed for the traveling joiner and carpenter. In Europe, the USA and Canada, this is a rather in-demand specialty: given the prices for lumber there, many customers demand that the master work with them locally and leave the slightest scraps, even sawdust and shavings, to the owner. A pair of Moxon vices, which makes it possible to work with long materials, can be carried in the trunk of a car, on a bicycle, on a scooter, or in a bag. The find was immediately appreciated by amateurs - Moxon's vice allows you to quickly and reversibly turn any more or less durable table into a carpentry workbench.

The appearance and method of fastening the Moxon mobile carpenter's vice are shown on the left and in the center in Fig. On the right is a device for their amateur version for fastening tightly to the table.

The Moxon vice has spawned many modifications. Drawings of one of them, a very simple and convenient carpenter's vice made of just 3 boards and a pair of clamps, are shown in Fig. further. True, you will actually need 2 more short clamps to attach the vice to the table. An extra 4 clamps (also not a very cheap pleasure these days) can be expensive for an amateur. But for an individual carpenter who works on call, such a vice is a godsend; disassembled, you can carry it with you in a regular duffel bag.

Often in life there is a need to use a vice. This is especially true when you have to work with a drill. Cutting with a grinder will be no exception, when you often have to hold the part with your foot and whatever you can. But this is inconvenient, and most importantly unsafe. Make yourself a small vise out of wood that you can easily store in your toolbox and take with you wherever you need it. Such a vice will be small, light, and in general, will become your best friend.

Materials and tools for making a vice:
- wood;
- a threaded rod and nuts for it;
- washers, screws and other small items;
- wood glue;
- varnish;
- dremel();
- drill with svelami ();
- sandpaper;
- chisel;
- clamps;
- screwdriver;
- two metal rods as guides;
- a tool for cutting wood ().

Vise manufacturing process:

Step one. Making the base
First of all, study the diagram and cut the blanks according to it. First of all, the author cuts off two blanks to make the base. Then these two parts are glued together. It’s better, of course, to use solid material, it’s just that the author didn’t have a board of the required width. However, an adhesive connection will cope with this task quite well. Gluing also has its advantages: you can make a base from narrow strips, it will be strong and at the same time light.

Work conveniently portable circular saw, but you can cope with this task using hand tools. Lubricate everything thoroughly with glue and clamp with clamps until completely dry.

Step two. Making jaws
The vice jaw, as usual, consists of two jaws. One jaw here acts as a support; it is attached at the very beginning of the vice, that is, there is a handle near it. And the second jaw is movable, they compress when you tighten the screw clockwise.

To make the jaws you will need four blocks. Their author also glues two pieces together. In each pair, one bar is responsible for the guide, and a threaded rod passes through the top ones. When you glue the blocks and the glue is completely dry, drill holes in them. A hole is drilled in the top two bars of such a diameter that a threaded rod can pass through it.

And in the two lower bars, drill two holes for the guides. Convenient to work on drilling machine, you can immediately drill in pairs.

Step three. Insert the nut
Place the nut on the opening of the moving jaw and trace around it with a pen or pencil. Cut out the resulting shape using a sharp chisel. Install and glue the nut into the resulting cavity. It is best to use epoxy glue, but it won’t go anywhere anyway, unless it can crawl out of its place when the jaws open.

Step four. Installing guides
Two steel rods are used as guides. They must be glued into the jaw that is installed statically. Glue it in using epoxy glue. We dilute the resin with the hardener, glue the rods and leave for 24 hours until completely dry. Clean the rods first sandpaper, or better yet, treat it with a grinder for reliable gluing.

Step five. Glue the front jaw
The author attaches the front jaw with glue, but this method is not very reliable. When clamping a vice, you can easily break off the jaw, one way or another, this will happen someday in the future. Instead of glue, or better yet, screw a couple of self-tapping screws on the other side. If using glue, clamp the structure with a clamp until it dries completely.

Step six. Making a pen
To make a handle, select a block of the required size and cut a handle out of it. We drill a hole in the handle to the diameter of the rod and attach it to the rod with epoxy glue. You can also drill another one across small hole and secure the handle with a pin, this will make it possible to remove it if necessary.

You will need a lever for the handle, drill a hole for it required diameter. The author also makes the lever from wood. We screw washers on both ends with self-tapping screws so that it does not fall out. Install washers between the handle and the stop. The washers need to be lubricated to reduce friction.

Step seven. Homemade sanding
Finally, the author grinds the surface of the vice so that it is smooth. First, this is done with a wire brush, and then using 200-grit sandpaper.

Step eight. Cutting off the excess
It so happened that the author’s guides turned out to be a little longer than necessary. He decided to cut them off and use them for another project. For these purposes, the author used a Dremel with an appropriate attachment. Be sure to smooth out the rough edges of the guides after this.

One of the main tools in any workshop is a vice. At first glance, this is a fairly simple tool, but in fact, with the help of a vice you can produce quite large number operations. There are a huge number of varieties: carpentry, metalwork, chair, cross. It happens that the vice may become unusable. In this case, you can make a vice yourself.

In any carpentry workshop you can see a vice. It is often necessary to clamp parts in order to turn them or simply glue them together. A homemade vice, which you can make yourself, can handle these tasks, and the price of such a product will be quite low. Often the jaws of a vice are made of soft wood to avoid damage to the part being clamped.

For convenience, the vice can be screwed to the workbench. In the fixed part, it is necessary to secure a furniture nut into which a pin will be screwed, which, in turn, will move the movable mechanism. It is necessary to firmly attach the washer to the movable jaw, and attach the knob itself to the handle. As for the tips for the sponges, they can be made from pieces of plywood.

If you need to assemble a carpenter's vice with your own hands, then this option is considered optimal.

First, you need to mark all the parts, then cut out three identical bars (the longer the length of the bar, the more dimensionally you can clamp the product). The bed can be made from a thick board or from 3 pieces of plywood. Drill two at a time vertical holes in two fixed bars. Drill a hole in one of the bars for a pin, which will act as a clamping mechanism. The next step is to install the nut into the timber.

At the end of the stud you need to weld a small rectangular patch and drill 4 holes in it for fastening. After this, screw the pin into the fixed jaw and screw its end to the movable jaw, and the structure itself to the workbench.

These vices are also called Moxon vices or bench vices; they cope quite successfully with clamping large boards, plywood, and various panels. The advantage of this type is that they do not take up a small area in the workshop, and they are made of wood.

You need to select the dimensions yourself; you can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands using a minimum of tools and material.

The design looks like this:

For manufacturing you will need two studs, four nuts, three boards. After the boards are prepared and cut to size, it is necessary to drill two holes in the fixed and moving parts. Then in the stationary part in drilled holes insert the nuts, having previously lubricated them with glue on both sides. A small nuance: The holes in the fixed part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the nuts themselves to prevent the nut from twisting in the hole. First, the studs need to be welded on the knob for convenience or a wooden handle must be made. The bed for the fixed part can be made in the form of a step. Screw the finished structure to the workbench with self-tapping screws or bolts.

If you often work with metal, then for these tasks you need a strong metal vice that you can make yourself.

In order to assemble a bench vise with your own hands, you need the following tools:

• Welding machine.
• Electric drill.
• Grinder with a grinding wheel.
• Square to maintain the required angles.
• Drills of various diameters.

In addition to the tool, you will need:

• Steel channel with a diameter of 6 mm.
• Sheet metal 5-6 mm thick, more possible.
• Corner 70 by 70 or 50 by 50.
• Twenty bolts and nuts.

If there is a pin with a diameter of 16 mm, then you can use it as a clamping screw that will move the moving part. The two nuts into which the screw will be screwed are quite difficult to make yourself, and besides, the remaining parts are quite non-standard and quite difficult to find, so it makes sense to turn to a turner.

Then weld the nut to the channel, this must be done coaxially.

The ends of the channel must be closed using a piece sheet metal and cut a hole in the strip for the screw.

Use a grinder to cut out two corners and a plate. Place the corners against the channel on both sides and cover the top with a piece of sheet metal. The result will be a kind of U-shaped design.

The frame can be cut out of 7-10 mm metal and four holes can be drilled on each side, as well as 6 holes in the U-shape.

Weld one nut to the frame, and weld two metal stoppers on the sides of the nut.

From steel you need to cut blanks for two jaws, movable and fixed. A stationary workpiece can be welded immediately.

Then weld the second workpiece onto the moving part. On the sponges themselves you need to make some kind of heels from thick metal. They can be welded or bolted.

If desired, you can reinforce the jaws on both sides with corner gussets made of thick metal.

These vices are no worse than purchased ones, and the material costs required are minimal. Using this principle, you can make another version of yews from a hand jack. Finished product Can be painted to give an aesthetic appearance.

Anyone who uses a drilling machine probably knows how difficult it is to drill and at the same time hold a workpiece, which tends to spin or fly off and injure the master. As a rule, in old machines there is no vice on the bed, which brings certain inconvenience. For more comfortable work, you can purchase a tool, or you can make a vice for a drilling machine with your own hands.

For machine vices you will need:

• Corner 30 by 30.
• Threaded stud.
• Nuts for the stud.
• Small bearing.
• If desired, the product can be painted.

The drawing looks like this:

First you need to saw off two corners. The size is selected depending on the dimensions of the drilling machine bed. Using a grinder, cut out two jaws from thick metal and make markings. Drill holes in them to attach the jaws to the base.

Take a piece of angle iron and drill a hole for the pin. You can immediately weld the bearing, as shown in the figure.

Opposite the mount with the bearing, weld a similar corner and drill a hole for the shaft.

Opposite the mount where the bearing is located, three nuts must be welded.

To make it convenient to twist the stud, you can weld a nut to its beginning and insert a knob into it. Homemade vices for a drilling machine are in no way inferior in design and quality to factory ones and are several times cheaper.

Most anglers prefer homemade fly tying vices to commercial ones. The device itself has a fairly simple design, which makes it possible to manufacture them in short terms and without special tools at home. The most difficult step in making a vice is the jaws themselves. They are made from steel bars rectangular shape. Two holes are drilled in the finished jaws for fastening to the yew and one for the adjusting screw. The holes need to be threaded (M6) with a tap.

The yew support can be made from a T-shaped or L-shaped steel rod. Sponges are welded to the end of one of the workpieces. The rod must be welded to the support, and if you need to make the support adjustable, then a piece of edged pipe is welded to the workpiece, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the workpiece. It is recommended to make the length of the support about 20-50 cm high for more comfortable work.

If the vice has become unusable and there is no way to repair it, then you should not immediately buy new ones, but try to make it yourself. Such a tool will serve for quite a long time and will cost several times less.

Hi all! Every carpenter should have on hand the means to firmly secure his workpiece or piece. A wooden bench vise is perfect for this purpose. Look at my version of this vise that I made with your own hands made of plywood and metal.

For this project I used every tool I had (from a nailer to welding machine). That's why I don't bring full list tools used. Use the tools you have. Be creative!

Step 1: Materials Used

First I cut the plywood to the required size. One piece was 2 cm thick, and the second 3 cm.
After this, I cut two strips of oak 1 cm thick. These should be glued and nailed to the top edge of the jaws, ensuring them stability and better appearance. Then cut flush and sand.

I attached a 2 cm piece of plywood to the table using a pair of furniture bolts.

Step 2: Device Mechanism

Let's move on to the mechanism itself.

From a local metal shop I purchased a 2cm diameter metal rod and an M 27 threaded rod and a couple of washers and nuts. In addition, I purchased a flat piece 4 mm thick and 6 cm wide. These are all the metal components that we will need.

Take wooden oak blocks and use them as guides. For the threaded rod, I welded two nuts to a flat piece and secured it under the table with screws (see photo).

On the outer jaw I decided to add the flat piece I mentioned earlier. This will provide additional stability to the entire structure.

It is very important that all elements are located on the same line, otherwise the vice will not work.

I also welded the washer to the threaded rod. This is necessary so that the outer jaw also moves when the rod is rotated. Without this, the sponge will remain in place and can only be moved manually.

Step 3: Lathe processing

For the rotating head, I glued together several cherry and oak blanks. Then on lathe gave the required shape. The result obtained was quite acceptable. Next, using a chisel, I made a recess for the nut. Using a drill press, I drilled a 2cm diameter hole through for the handle. The hole turned out to be a little angled...

The handle is a spruce pin with cherry end caps that prevent the handle from falling out. Treat the handle with drying oil.

Also on the outer jaw I drilled holes 3 cm deep for stops on carpentry workbench. That's why I used 3cm plywood for the outer jaw. But a single row of stops on a woodworking bench won't do any good, so we still need to add other holes on this table. I'll do it when I get to final stage. I just have to consider the mechanical part underneath.

Step 4: Finish