Drywall is versatile building material. Quite often it is used to create smooth surfaces. But curved objects made from gypsum plasterboard are becoming increasingly widespread among homeowners and designers, among them the following can be distinguished:

• multi-level relief ceilings;
• openings;
• niches with curved lines.

You can create such masterpieces with your own hands. To do this you will need tools, materials and instructions, which you can find below. Tips on how to bend drywall for an arch will help not only finishers who deal with drywall almost every day, but also ordinary consumers who are undertaking renovations in a house or apartment. If you want to diversify your interior with one of the above objects, then you need to learn how to bend a sheet of drywall and strengthen it.

Preparation of tools and materials

If you are thinking about the question of how to bend drywall for an arch, then you should prepare:

• self-tapping screws;
• square;
• roller;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• knife with replaceable blades;
• sponge or sprayer.

Before starting work, you need to cut the drywall to size. The operation is quite simple; to do this, place a square along the edge of the sheet and use a knife to make a deep cut. The sheet is bent along the cutting line to break the plaster layer. On final stage the master will have to cut the paper layer with opposite side.

It is important to make sure that the fragment is the right size before starting bending. Today, several methods are known that make it possible to give drywall a curved shape, among them moistening and making parallel cuts should be highlighted.

The first technology is used when it is necessary to slightly bend the canvas. The second technique will be useful when the sheet needs to be given greater curvature. You can also use an alternative option in the latter case; for this, two layers of plasterboard are used, each of which is 6.5 mm thick. This material is arched drywall because it is easier to bend. You can use one sheet of drywall of the mentioned thickness and another layer of plywood with identical parameters. Before bending drywall for an arch, you need to practice on scrap material. The manipulations should be repeated several times, this will eliminate errors in the future.

Folding sheets using cuts

The cuts will allow you to bend the drywall sheet when the material is planned to be used for formation. In this case, you can give the sheet an impressive radius. In order to bend a sheet, notches should be made on it with a certain pitch, the distance between them should vary from 3 to 5 cm. The sheet must be laid on the floor and leaned against the wall.

Using a ruler or building level Parallel cuts are made on the canvas. If the paper layer is cut on one side, this will allow the sheet to be folded quite easily, leaving the paper layer on the other side intact. In addition, the risk of destruction of the canvas will be eliminated. If you are faced with the question of how to bend drywall for an arch, then at the next stage you need to break the plaster in the places of the cuts so that the canvas becomes as flexible as possible. If the technology has been followed, the drywall will bend quite easily, this will allow the canvas to be given the desired shape.

Now you should align the arch fragment with the plane of the wall and secure the sheet with self-tapping screws. In order for the results of the work to meet expectations, all operations must be performed carefully. The sheet must be fixed in increments of 5 cm. To do this, you need to use a screwdriver that has a torque adjustment function. This will allow you to tighten the screws correctly and quickly.

It is important to make sure that metal frame is strong enough, otherwise the arch will not be as rigid as we would like. If the arch does not look as expected, it should not be done. After the structure is covered with reinforced mesh and treated with several layers of putty, it will look more attractive.

How to bend a sheet using the wetting method

If you want to give the drywall a curved shape, you can moisten the sheet from the back surface of the sheet. In order to maximize the bend, it is necessary to wet not only the back, but also the front side. The sheets are laid on a flat concrete floor, and they can be moistened using a garden sprayer or roller. If you want to wet the drywall heavily, you can even use a sponge. However, excess water can damage the material, so moisturizing should be gradual.

Work methodology

Before bending a sheet of drywall for an arch, you must wait until the water is absorbed into the material. This may take about an hour. Work with great care, as a wet panel can be damaged. Once you have the sheet in the desired shape, you need to check the room to get rid of excess moisture.

Do not wet the sheet too much, otherwise the paper may tear. At the next stage, you need to fix one of the edges of the sheet, then you need to start bending the sheet by screwing in the screws. It is important to take care to achieve a smooth curve. The distance between the self-tapping screws and each other should be equal to the limit of 10 to 15 cm, otherwise the curve will turn out wavy. It is necessary to install screws very carefully, otherwise you will have to spend more effort on final leveling surfaces by applying putty.

A fairly common part of the interior in lately are arches made of plasterboard. You can prepare the material for this using the wet method according to the scheme described above. However, there are some nuances. For example, in order for the sheet to be better saturated, it should be treated with a needle roller or an awl on one of the sides, which will be concave. Afterwards, you can begin to wet the surface with water; for this you can use not only a roller or spray bottle, but also a brush.

The sheet is left for a while; you need to check it after 15 minutes to see if the sheet is ready for further work. It is important to exclude the moment that the water wets the canvas through and through. If you do not want to attach the sheet immediately, you can fix it on the template with tape and leave it until completely dry.

If you are thinking about the question of how to bend drywall under an arch, but the bend should be impressive, you need to make cuts every 5 cm on the back surface of the sheet. But if you need to bend the bend only a little, then the sheet is moistened with a roller or sponge. At the beginning of work, it is necessary to think through the sequence of actions, this will avoid mistakes.

Using the Frame

Quite often, novice home craftsmen wonder how to bend drywall for an arch. Methods for carrying out such work are described in the article. For example, one solution is to use the dry method. It is suitable for creating a slight bend. The curvature of the part will depend on the thickness of the material. A thinner sheet will result in a smaller radius.

First you need to prepare a frame that will serve as a template. This element can be made of plywood, steel profile or chipboard. One edge of the part is fixed to the template and slowly bent; it is important to apply a little force, trying to give the sheet the shape of the frame. If you are wondering how to bend drywall correctly, you must remember that as the surface of the sheet adheres to the template, the sheet should be fixed with self-tapping screws. To make this work more convenient, you should seek the help of a partner.

If you also wondered how to bend drywall at home, then it will be important to prepare a template that is made from a U-shaped profile. On its side strips it is necessary to make cuts to the base, the distance between which will be equal to the limit from 30 to 70 mm. The material can be easily bent, then giving it the right type. If the bend should be directed to the side, then you need to trim the base of the profile and its shelf on one side.

Conclusion

At one time, plasterboard revolutionized the field of interior decoration, simplifying and facilitating many works. Today this material is used even more widely. They learned to make arches from it and different designs curved shapes. You too can follow the experience of the majority, using the recommendations from the article.

When constructing any structure made of plasterboard, you need a base - a frame, on which the gypsum board sheets are attached. This frame is assembled using technology from special products - profiles. About what a profile for plasterboard can be, its types and sizes, scope of application - in this article.

Materials: what are profiles for gypsum plasterboard made from?

Profiles for drywall of any type are made of steel and aluminum. Steel ones (regular or galvanized) are more common, since aluminum ones, although they have excellent characteristics, are very expensive.

Steel can be ordinary or with protective layer- galvanized. Conventional ones - made of black steel - have a lower cost and are suitable for rooms with normal operating conditions. With their help they make a suspended ceiling, in living rooms, corridors. In rooms with high humidity- bathrooms, kitchens, etc. - it is better to use galvanized steel or aluminum.

Types and sizes of profiles for drywall

In any place that sells materials for gypsum boards, there are profiles different types and size. To choose and not make a mistake, you need to know how they differ.

To create wireframes

There are profiles for drywall of the following types:

• Guide. Designated as PN (UD) (interpretation - guide profile). The cross-section is U-shaped, with smooth side walls. Used as a support base for racks and lintels. It is attached around the perimeter of the structure, and then all other elements of the system are installed into it. Dimensions:
  
• Rack-mounted. Designated PS (CD) - rack profile. It is inserted into the guides, and gypsum boards are attached to it. Accordingly, it bears the main load and must have high rigidity. It has a U-shaped structure with additional shelves and stiffening ribs, which give it greater rigidity. Dimensions:
  
• Ceiling. Designated PP and PPN. Accordingly, a guide and load-bearing ceiling profile. The ceiling guide has a cross-section in the shape of the letter “P” and has a smaller cross-section than the wall one. Ceiling support profile - has shelves and stiffeners, but is distinguished by shelves of lower height. The lower height means that it takes less height away from the room and that the ceiling plasterboard is thinner, creating less stress on the frame.
  
• Arched. It has a complex structure - with cuts on the side edges for increased flexibility. Essential for creating curved surfaces.

These are all types of profiles for gypsum board that are used to construct the frame. A “frame” is assembled from the PN guides; PS racks are inserted into them, which are then connected by jumpers (usually from PN) for greater structural rigidity.

Additional profiles and accessories

There are several types additional profiles, which are used in finishing works, when creating a suspended frame for the ceiling, for attaching rack profiles to walls, etc.

• Angular. The cross section is a right angle with a slightly protruding central part. Used to decorate the corners of plasterboard structures. There are several types:
  
• Perforated hangers. This fastener in the form of a tape 125*60 mm. It is divided into three parts. The middle one is used to fix the suspension to the ceiling/wall, the outer ones are perforated, bend at 90°, and profiles are attached to them.

  

• Anchor hangers for PP (ceiling profiles). There are several types. Used in the construction of suspended ceilings. Distinctive feature— it’s easy to adjust the height, which is necessary when setting the ceiling plane.

  

  Anchor suspension - for easy height adjustment suspended ceiling

• Single-level and two-level connector for PP (crab). Plate with fixing elements for fastening intersecting profiles. Used in constructing frames for suspended ceilings.

  

  Connectors - single-level and two-level

• Profile extension. Small sizes bracket (110*58 mm) for splicing two sections of the same type and size.

You can do without most of these devices. For example, two profiles are joined using a piece of a guide profile of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, the shelves are pressed with pliers, and screwed with self-tapping screws. The connection is more rigid than with special devices.

When creating a frame located along the wall, it is secured not with perforated hangers, but with boots - sections of profiles bent in the shape of the letter “L” (called “boot” - after its characteristic shape).

Two ways to fix rack profiles to the wall - using a perforated hanger and a piece of profile

This is not so much a way to save money as an opportunity to get a more rigid fastening, since perforated hangers were originally developed for suspended ceilings and can hardly withstand the load from wall plasterboard, especially laid in two rows.

Profile length

The profile for each type of drywall may differ in length. Standard length- 2.4 and 2.8 meters. but there is up to 4 m.

Should I look for long profiles? This doesn't make much sense. Perhaps the assembly of the frame will speed up a little. Profiles for gypsum plasterboard fit perfectly together, the strength of the structure does not suffer. Only when assembling the frame should you make sure that the joints on adjacent racks are not at the same level. Usually joints are made alternately at the top, then at the bottom.

How to choose a profile for gypsum boards

In a more or less large hardware store or even on the market there are profiles for drywall of the same type and length, but with a significant difference in price. The cost may differ by two times, and sometimes more. Moreover, the most expensive are usually Knauf, the cheapest are unnamed China, the middle range is domestic manufacturers.

Metal thickness

The difference will become clear as soon as you pick up the profile. Some are strong, rigid, made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, 0.55 mm, 0.6 mm and more. Others are made of such thin metal that they change their geometry even if the profile is lifted by one edge.

With this parameter everything is more or less simple and clear. The thicker the metal, the stronger and stiffer the profile, but the price is also higher. Optimal for creating partitions when standard height walls, take profiles with a metal thickness of 0.5 or 0.55 mm. If possible, you can take 0.6 mm.

The dimensions are standard, but the weight of the same profile may be different - due to the different thickness of the metal from which it is made

It makes sense to take a greater thickness of metal only if the height of the partition is large - the load will be more significant and additional strength will not hurt. But in this case, you need to look at what will cost less - a profile for plasterboard made of thicker metal or more often installed racks and crossbars. You just need to keep in mind that racks are usually installed in increments of 60 cm - so that the joint of the gypsum board sheets falls in the middle of one of the rack profiles. When reducing the pitch, you need to achieve the same thing - the joint of the drywall sheets should not hang in the air. So it will be possible to install them only after 40 cm. So the seam will also be on the profile. But this is too much large number racks and is unlikely to cost less. In general, you do the math.

Manufacturer selection

Choosing a manufacturer of drywall guides is both simple and difficult at the same time. All experts unanimously say that the best are Knauf. They always correspond to the stated parameters and have an ideal geometry: the racks fit perfectly into the guides, do not dangle or push them apart. In general, working with Knauf drywall profiles is easy, simple, and work progresses quickly. But these are precisely the most expensive of the entire range. Despite this, the advice is this: if you have no experience working with drywall, it’s better to buy Knauf.

There are several Russian companies in the middle price range. These are Giprok (Giprok) and Metalist. There are also regional little-known campaigns. It depends on your luck. Trust your feelings and feedback. It is not always possible to rely on the words of sellers. U domestic producers There are good games, and there are bad ones. In most cases, there is a problem such as a mismatch in the sizes of the rack-mount PS and the PN guide profiles. The posts must fit exactly inside the guide. In order for the declared width to be, for example, 50 mm, the actual width should be 1.5 mm less. Problems arise with the accuracy of observing this difference. In addition, the declared thickness of the metal must be checked (with a micrometer). In general, you will be able to save money, but you will waste a significant amount of your nerves and time.

Giprok has a profile with a corrugated surface. All sides of the profiles - both the back and the shelves - have extruded “pimples”. They increase the rigidity of the profile. This is true - the design is more rigid. But the connection of the racks and guides turns out to be more clumsy - due to the mismatch of the “pimples,” they do not attract closely like smooth metal walls. There is a second point - structures made from such profiles creak more. With all this, such profiles cost a little less than Knauf, but they are more difficult to work with. In general, it's up to you.

How to count the number of profiles

Knowing what type and type of profiles there are for drywall, their dimensions are not enough. It is necessary to calculate the quantity of each type. It will be easier to calculate if you draw a frame plan on a piece of paper, sign the names of the profiles, and put down the dimensions. This will not take much time, but will help you determine the quantity more accurately.

Calculation of the number of guides for one wall

If the walls are very uneven, you can level them using drywall. A parallel wall is erected, but set strictly according to the level. In this case, the calculation of the number of profiles for drywall will be as follows:

If all the walls in a room are covered with plasterboard, a similar calculation is carried out for each wall, then the results are summed up.

Number of profiles for plasterboard for suspended ceilings - PP and PNP

The calculation here is a little simpler: the frame is assembled “in a cage”, so it’s easier to calculate it. Otherwise the approach is the same as described above. So we think:

In total, for a suspended ceiling in a room measuring 3*4 meters you will need 14 m + 20 m = 34 m of PP profile, 21 meter of PNP profile.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard structures are almost always attached to a metal frame. When installing profiles, you need to focus on the markings, which are carried out at the very beginning of the repair.

To properly mark, arm yourself with some tools.

To carry out marking you need:

• Marking cord (you can find it at any building materials store);
• Marker (for drawing on any surface);
• Square;
• Special construction tape measure;
• Laser level.

First of all, a line is drawn along which the new plasterboard construction. If smoothing work is being carried out uneven walls, find a protruding point on the wall and place a mark perpendicular to it.

The distance between the wall and the mark will be equal to the width of the profile, plus another three mm. After this, you select one of the corners, another mark is already deposited in it at a similar distance from the wall. Then you take a tape measure and marking line and mark a line on the floor. In this case, the reference point is on these two marks.

On the ceiling the lines are marked in the same way. Lines are drawn directly on the wall, against which there will be rack profiles. The distance between these profiles is 60 cm.

This work requires precision, since the subsequent installation of profiles depends on it.

Connecting profiles to each other

Types of connection:

• Guide connections at the inner corner. Using sharp scissors, cut off the shelf length from one of the profiles; it will be equal to the width of the profile with a margin of 20 mm, for ease of insertion of the plasterboard sheet. You lay and fasten the second profile, which forms an angle, on top of the first.
• Fastening the profile “behind the ear”. Sometimes a section of profile needs to be attached to the base. To do this yourself, you need to remove the shelves. Cut the profile to the required length with a margin of 50 mm, which will fit “on the ear”. After this, the shelves are cut along the line of the border of the allowance to the back. You bend the allowance, the shelves, cut them at a small angle, with access to the pre-made cuts.
• Connections with cuts. Along the profile fold line, make cuts to a depth of 40 mm. If you need to get a straight edge, cut along the shelf rather than along the line. You bend and then cut off the back of the profile. Then you connect the profiles.

The angle obtained during the connection is fixed with self-tapping screws.

How to bend a profile

Installing a profile under drywall sometimes requires that it needs to be bent.

Profile bending methods:

• First way. You cut two side parts of the profile, but its base remains intact. The smaller the radius of the future structure, the more often cuts need to be made.
• Second way. In this case, the base and one side flange of the profile are cut. This profile is suitable for the production of wave-shaped and oval elements.

It is often necessary to bend the profile when making arches. When doing this yourself, be careful not to rush so that the profile bends symmetrically.

Bent profile

Bend the profile is a mandatory task if you are making a figured ceiling with your own hands. The more complex the idea, the more difficult it is to install the profile under the drywall.

The easiest way to bend a metal profile is using the notching method. Do not forget that cuts need to be made at equal distances; this work is carried out with great care so as not to break the profile.

Metal scissors – best tool in order to bend the profile correctly.

Profile construction

Whatever design you make, the work is based on a specific algorithm.

Action plan for the construction of the structure:

• Preparation of profiles and drywall sheets;
• Marking;
• Profile cutting;
• Compound;
• Checking the level of all points of the frame.

If communication is carried out in the structure, then it is better to mount a corrugated sleeve here, where the wires and pipes will be hidden.

Installation without profiles

This usually means the glue method. If for some reason you can’t assemble the frame, or you think it’s extra work, you can attach the drywall with glue.

This is done with your own hands, the work is not difficult, but this method is only good if smooth walls. If there are visible irregularities, the sheets will be glued to the bumpy surface, and the aesthetics of such a picture is questionable. Of course, gluing the sheets is easier than building a frame.

This installation is carried out in several stages:

• Studying the configuration of the walls;
• Preparation of walls;
• Marking places for glue;
• Transferring markings to plasterboard sheets;
• Drilling mechanical fixation;
• Installation of drywall with glue;
• Adjustment of sheet levels;
• Mechanical fixation.

Whether to put the sheets on glue or make a frame is decided individually in each case, it all depends on the evenness/unevenness of the walls. A self-made adhesive joint can be no less strong.

Profile frames are constructed with the expectation that they can withstand heavy loads under mirrors, chandeliers, and lamps. Therefore, the connections must be strong so that the frame is ready for any load.

Features of installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands (video)

During the construction of small architectural forms When making canopies, awnings, or installing heating (water supply) systems, home craftsmen are faced with the need to bend a corrugated pipe.

In the mass production of metal structures, especially in specialized workshops, industrial pipe benders are used.

Such devices allow you to quickly and without defects bend a corrugated pipe measuring from 20 to 40 mm. However, purchasing pipe bending equipment for a one-time use is unprofitable; in some cases it is cheaper to go to a workshop and pay for the work of forming the profile. If this option does not suit you, consider ways to bend a profile pipe at home.

Features of molding pipes with a square (rectangular) cross-section

Unlike round pipe, in which the tension of the material occurs relatively evenly, the profile has angles of 90°. The inner part of the profile cannot bend without deforming the side walls. As a result, folds are formed on the inner radius, and tears are possible on the outside.

Without going into the technology of how to bend a pipe without a pipe bender, many “homemade” craftsmen spoil the workpieces or damage the strength structure of the material.

The basic rule is to avoid critical bends, or to force (programmed) deformation of the material.

In industrial pipe benders, to evenly distribute the load, a stamping is formed on inside radius. For this purpose, a special boss is provided on the rollers or mandrel (depending on the design of the pipe bender).

All “excess” metal is bent inward without forming folds. As a result, the load is distributed evenly, and bending square pipe possible at a fairly small radius.

We bend profiled pipes correctly without additional costs

There are many ways to bend a profile pipe at home without using an industrial pipe bender.

Sector welding

This method is available subject to availability. welding machine. You will also need a grinder, but you can get by with a hacksaw. The essence of the method is to make evenly distributed sector cuts along the inside.

The amount of material is reduced, and you don’t have to worry about the formation of folds and tears in the metal. After cutting out the sectors, the profile easily takes the given shape, and the resulting cuts are welded in any available way.

The method is labor-intensive, but you can bend the pipe to any radius, including variable value. If you are an experienced welder, the tightness and strength characteristics of the workpiece will not deteriorate.