Putty is one of the most affordable and quick ways, allowing you to prepare the surface of the walls for wallpaper. With the help of putty, you can perfectly level a wall with potholes, cracks and other defects, so many want to know how to properly putty walls under wallpaper in order to achieve maximum effect. It is much easier to glue wallpaper on smooth walls than on curved ones - the glue is absorbed evenly and the risk of wrinkling of the canvas is reduced. In addition, the putty eliminates minor irregularities that will be clearly visible under the wallpaper, especially when sunlight. In order to renovation work were carried out quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to observe certain important rules, including when choosing material for puttying.

To putty the walls before wallpapering, you will need the following set of tools:

1. Drill with mixer attachment. The putty mixture is most often sold in dry form, and to bring it to the required consistency it must be diluted with water. The mixture can be ideally mixed to a homogeneous mass without lumps only with the help of such an attachment. If you don't have a mixer, you can purchase one already ready-made putty, which does not require pre-mixing.
2. Spatulas of different sizes. For corners and other hard-to-reach areas, use a small spatula, and for the rest of the surface, use a tool 40-50 cm wide.
3. Brushes and foam rollers. These devices allow you to perform high-quality priming of walls. It is not recommended to skip this step because thin layer primer solution ensures good adhesion between the wall and wallpaper.
4. Rule. This tool is necessary when working with uneven walls, when the putty is applied in a thick layer and the likelihood of uneven distribution of the material over the entire surface increases.
5. Sandpaper. Used to eliminate transitions between layers, small bumps and depressions. Fine-grained paper and a manual sanding machine are best suited for these purposes, which makes the sanding process easier.

VIDEO TUTORIAL: All about puttying walls

Selection of material for putty work

Depends on the quality of wallpapering general view interior design, so the questions of how to putty walls for wallpaper and what material to choose will always be relevant.

Most often, the following grades of materials are used for puttying surfaces under wallpaper:

For those who have decided to putty walls on their own for the first time, experts recommend using a ready-made water-polymer mixture, which is sold in plastic packaging, has an optimal consistency and is easy to apply.

Primer as an important stage of puttying

Primer is a special composition that forms a waterproof film, so the wallpaper adheres better to the surface.

The following types of primer solutions are distinguished:

• Acrylic. Suitable for any surfaces, including concrete, cement, wood, brick, plywood and plastered. The material does not have a specific odor, dries within 5 hours and is most often used for wallpapering.
• Alkyd. Used for finishing wooden walls V country houses. The drying time of this primer is no more than 15 hours.
• Glypthal. Designed for finishing wood and metal surfaces in rooms with low humidity levels, drying in about a day.
• Perchlorovinyl. Suitable for concrete, metal, brick and plaster walls, drying time at room temperature is 1 hour.

Preparing the surface for putty

To successfully refresh the interior, you need to clearly understand how to putty walls under wallpaper, otherwise all efforts will be reduced to zero.

Before you start puttingtying with your own hands, you need to thoroughly clean the walls of grease, paint, dust, falling layers of plaster and wallpaper residues. There are no difficulties when removing paper wallpaper; to do this, it is enough to moisten it well. But situations often arise when removing old wallpaper becomes real problem, this applies to glass wallpaper or canvases glued to drywall. If the material fits tightly to the wall and does not form voids or bubbles, you can putty on old wallpaper, but the layer should not exceed 1 mm, otherwise the hardened putty may peel off along with the wallpaper.

Important! If fungal damage and mold are found on the walls, it is necessary to treat the surface antiseptic solution. Sharp protrusions and bumps should be cut off with a metal spatula, and large depressions should be pre-plastered.

The final stage preparatory work is to apply one thin layer of primer, after which you need to wait for the solution to dry completely and begin puttying.

Starting putty

Even if at first glance the walls seem smooth and need only partial processing, at least two layers of putty should be applied. For plasterboard walls, one layer will be enough, but first you should carefully seal the joints of the material.

Starting putty is intended to eliminate significant differences in walls, hide grooves and holes, the layer thickness is in this case can reach 1.5 cm. For the initial finishing, a special putty is used, which is intended for filling joints, sealing breathing cracks and joints of floor slabs.

VIDEO: Starting puttying of walls

Advice! To perform the starting putty as efficiently as possible, experts recommend installing a special painting mesh on the wall and evenly distributing the mixture over it.

Each subsequent layer is applied after thoroughly drying and sanding the previous one. If there are no significant defects on the walls, the starting putty stage can be skipped.

Applying the finishing layer

If the wall is relatively flat, then one finishing layer will be enough; if the surface was previously plastered, then 2-3 layers of putty will have to be applied. The drying period for each layer can be up to 10-12 hours, after which the surface is sanded to eliminate sagging and other irregularities. The final layer before wallpapering must be applied with a wide spatula, from 30 cm, in a crosswise motion with an overlap on the already treated area. So that the layer has optimal thickness 2-3 mm, and the putty did not leave any bumps or uneven edges, the spatula must be held at an angle of 25-30 degrees to the wall, and all movements must have the same pressure. After each layer, it is necessary to check the surface for evenness using a rule and a flashlight, and eliminate any identified defects with the next layer.

Another way to treat corners is to apply a little more mixture to them, and after drying, remove the excess by sanding.

Afterwards, the wall dries for about a day until the material finally hardens, after which the entire surface must be treated with sandpaper or an abrasive plane.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself finishing putty for wallpaper

It should be noted that finishing putty is advisable for leveling old walls with significant unevenness and cracks, as well as before applying single-color paint, which makes wall defects more noticeable. In new houses, as a rule, such a need does not arise, and minor unevenness is eliminated by re-plastering. In addition, modern wallpaper is thick enough to independently hide existing imperfections and level the walls.

I will try to write briefly about the main mistakes that complicate the process puttying walls and will make you very nervous if you are just learning putty the walls.
In general, you should know the difference between puttying and plastering walls. Putty is applied in a small layer on relatively flat and smooth walls to give a finishing plane, followed by wallpapering or painting.
Plaster is needed to level very crooked walls into a plane or vertical level. It can be applied in a large layer, up to 5 cm. After leveling the wall with plaster, you can apply putty or glue tiles. There is no need to putty the walls before gluing the tiles. The same is true when covering the wall with other materials, for example, PVC panels or other materials. The wall is already leveled, but why do we need another intermediate layer of putty between it and, say, the tile?

So, here is what will prevent you from quickly and efficiently plastering the walls.

Dirty bucket and putty tools

The bucket for storing the putty solution must be absolutely clean or close to this condition, that is, like a bucket in an operating room, almost in the literal sense. All the pebbles, threads, putty remnants on the walls of the bucket and other debris will inevitably be dragged by the spatula, leaving marks on the wall and causing wild, irrepressible irritation. Once the solution runs out, be sure to thoroughly wash the bucket before adding new solution. Keep a separate bucket just for putty. The same goes for spatulas and a mixer for mixing the solution. It is better to wash the mixer immediately after stirring the solution. Tools must be clean!

Crooked or jagged spatula

Wide spatula you need an even one, and this is not a very big exaggeration. Check spatula you can do this. Place it on a flat surface and see if there are any gaps. Tilt it at an angle and check by eye for any arches or bends. Small deviations at the edges (corners) are not dangerous. You just need to turn the sharp edges away from the wall. A beginner's spatula should not be too hard. You will never be able to master clear movements the first time and will press the spatula too hard against the wall, leaving deep stripes on one edge or the other. For a beginner, an ordinary and inexpensive one is quite enough. It will bend a little during operation, adapting to your pressure, which will not greatly affect the quality of work, but will not traumatize your psyche and will not change the picture of the world for the worse. Hard and expensive spatulas are for professionals. Choose the width of a wide spatula to be 30-40 cm, narrow for collecting putty 10-12 cm. During work, from time to time clean the wide spatula with reverse side. Lumps of dried putty will accumulate on it, leaving marks on the wall.

Putty solution too thin

For those new to putty, a common problem is deciding how thick the solution should be. The correct thickness can be compared to good fat sour cream. Insert a narrow spatula into the putty up to the handle and follow it. If it is static and does not show a pronounced tendency to dive or collapse, then everything is in order. Scoop up the putty and apply it to a wide spatula. Turn the spatula upside down. The putty should adhere confidently to a dry spatula. For the second, finishing layer, the solution needs to be made a little thinner, since the first layer will strongly absorb water. It will be impossible for you to apply dehydrated putty on the first coat. It will not stick and will begin to roll under the spatula. Before applying the second layer, you can prime the first with a weak primer solution. This will save you from excessive dehydration.

Wall too dry to putty

Before applying the first layer of putty, you need to prime the wall not a day, but 3-4 hours before starting. A wall that is too dry will quickly draw moisture from the mortar, and you will drag dehydrated putty along the wall, which will roll under the trowel, leaving grooves.

A highly absorbent surface should be primed a few minutes before puttying or sprayed with water from a spray bottle, which will prevent the appearance of air bubbles in the putty layer.

Too thin layer of putty

One more common mistake for beginners, is to press the spatula too hard against the surface of the wall, which is called “scraping.” Try to press the spatula so that the first layer is about 1 mm. It is unlikely that you will be able to do this right away. But the first layer should not be thinner, otherwise there is no point in such an application. The second layer, the finishing one, may be a little thinner; it is needed to completely smooth out all the unevenness.

Puttying from wall corners

You should not start putting putty from the corner. Corners are usually the most uneven places on a wall. Starting from the corner, you simply repeat the curvature and transfer it to the nearest sections of the wall. Step back from the corner about 3-5 cm and start from bottom to top and top to bottom. When the putty has dried, using the leveled area at the corner as a “beacon” and leaning on it with a spatula, slowly level the corner with the same movement from below and above, having previously filled it with putty. You should not try to immediately level the angle on both sides forming its walls. You will inevitably “tear up” the already applied putty. Wait for one side to dry, and then proceed to the other, repeating the entire operation again.
In many apartments, the corners of the walls are rounded. Before puttingtying such walls, the curves must be removed with a hammer drill. Otherwise, you will never achieve an even angle with a small layer of putty.

Don’t be lazy to remove the unevenness of the first layer of putty

Before applying the second layer, do not be too lazy to go over the first, already dry layer putties wide spatula, tearing off all the irregularities. These can be protruding “beds” or bubbles formed from air escaping from the wall. It will be much easier and simpler for you to continue working after completing this simple operation.

Wrong choice of putty

Depending on what you intend to do after plastering the walls, whether to glue wallpaper or paint the wall, choose the right putty. Almost any wallpaper will suit. For painting - only finishing, with a very fine fraction. Be sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations before purchasing.
A perfect surface is not required for wallpapering. The wallpaper will hide small stripes, dents and irregularities so that you won’t even notice. Paint, on the contrary, will highlight any scratch, even the smallest one. Therefore, when puttingtying and sanding a wall for painting, use additional lighting. To do this, you can use a small spotlight, pointing it under acute angle, from above and below to sections of the wall that are in at the moment processing.

Not everyone knows how to putty walls with their own hands, without using the services of specialists and without making mistakes. It is very important in the process of preparing walls for finishing work to adhere to technology, follow the steps one by one and use it correctly construction tool, then as a result we will get an even and smooth surface.

What putty is best to use on walls?

According to their intended purpose, putty is divided into types:

• starting, used as a leveling layer
• decorative (finish)
• universal

The composition of almost all types of putty is the same: plasticizers, base and adhesives. The component that forms the basis is the main difference that allows the putty material to be divided into:

• cement
• polymeric
• plaster

Before you putty the walls yourself, you need to study the advantages and disadvantages of working with each type of putty mixture, prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for the work.

Table of putty differences by composition
	Purpose	Advantages	Flaws
Plaster	for rooms in which the humidity percentage is below normal (bedrooms, hallways)	As a result, we get a smooth surface; it is permissible to apply a layer of no more than 2 mm to the wall; it sets within two hours	dries quickly, is not susceptible to moisture
Cement	for rooms with high level humidity (kitchens, facades, basement)	low cost, water resistance	Over time, cracks and slight shrinkage may appear
Polymer	for rooms with normal humidity levels	after applying the putty to the wall, an ideal surface is formed for further work (painting, wallpapering), it sets quickly and fits well	expensive material

Preparing the wall surface for putty

It is not difficult to putty walls with your own hands if you follow technology and consistency in the process. The first step is to prepare the wall surface. It is important that the wall is dry and clean. It is not recommended to putty on walls that are frozen.

To ensure that the putty material fits perfectly on the walls, use a primer. The walls are primed before applying putty. The primer ensures the connection between the putty and the wall. The primer solution must be applied evenly, without gaps; a special roller is used for this. The primer can be applied in one layer and allowed to dry.

How to putty walls with your own hands correctly?

Inspect the room, clean the walls and remove all unnecessary items from the room. This will allow you to see the scale of the work and select the appropriate type of putty and tools. Before you putty the walls, you need to remove all the cracks. To do this you need to use a gypsum mixture. The crack needs to be expanded a little in width and depth. After this, we treat the gap with a primer and only then putty.

If you decide to putty yourself, it is better to start by using ready-made rather than dry mixtures. When purchasing a dry mixture, be attentive to the recommendations on the packaging. It is important to prepare the putty from the dry mixture in the correct consistency.

Cooking sequence:

• pour a little water into a clean container
• add dry powder (putty) and mix thoroughly using a simple spatula
• To ensure the mixture is homogeneous, use a drill with a mixer; if necessary, gradually add water

The mixture is ready to be applied to the walls if it has an elastic, homogeneous structure and does not flow off the spatula. If lumps have formed in the putty, the mixture is too thick; if it flows off the spatula, add dry mixture.

How to putty walls: sequence and technology

In order for the wall puttying process to be successful, you need to follow the sequence of steps and prepare all the necessary tools in advance:

• starting putty. At this stage we will need a large spatula. The putty should be applied to the walls in medium, even portions, spreading over the surface. The spatula should be held at an angle 30 degrees. Apply the putty in one diagonal motion. If this is your first time applying putty with your own hands, we recommend that you apply each layer overlapping. This will eliminate the transition line and avoid bumps.
• processing smooth corners. At this stage, we will learn how to putty the corners with our own hands. Prepare a small and angled spatula. Using a spatula small size, apply a small layer of putty material to the slope, then use an angle tool to level the surface
• finishing putty. After the starting layer has become dry, you can begin finishing coating. Prepare spatulas - small and large. Layer thickness decorative putty should not be more than 2 mm. Use a small spatula to place the putty on a large one in medium portions. Spread the putty mixture on the surface in an even layer.
• Putty for pasting and painting walls. We proceed to this stage only after the previous two layers of putty have completely dried.

Before you begin to putty the walls with your own hands, you need to determine the type of coating on which you will apply the putty. Application methods and the required degree of thickness depend on this.

How to putty walls under wallpaper?

Before you begin to putty your own walls for wallpaper, you need to decide on the type and thickness of the wallpaper. If the wallpaper has a fine structure, you need to apply several layers of leveling putty. After this, you can, without the help of a specialist, hang wallpaper with your own hands without bubbles and creases.

It is best to use dry putty mixtures, which you can prepare yourself by following the instructions. The thickness of the putty layer when preparing the wall for wallpapering should not exceed 1-2 mm. Therefore, take your time special attention eliminating cracks and potholes at the rough preparation stage.

How to putty walls for painting with your own hands?

Wall finishing for painting requires careful preliminary preparation, since the paint does not hide irregularities.

The procedure for puttingty for painting walls is carried out in stages:

• thinly apply a leveling layer
• for walls with a large number of deep irregularities of large volume, it is necessary to apply putty in 2-3 layers
• leave to dry for several hours
• We apply the decorative layer using the technology described in the section above
• when all layers of putty have dried, we rub the wall with sandpaper, thus removing all roughness

How to calculate the consumption of material needed for puttying walls with your own hands?

Before you begin repairs, you need to draw up an estimate. This will allow you to calculate the cost of materials and finances in advance. If you want to putty the walls with your own hands, then savings are important to you.

It is more profitable to use dry mixtures for putty, since a bag of twenty kilograms produces 30 liters mixture of good thickness. To calculate, you need to know the size of the room. Manufacturers of putty mixtures claim that 1 sq.m. approximately goes away 1 kg putty (only for 1 layer).

Taking into account the features of the walls and the size of the rooms, you can determine how many layers of putty you need to apply. Before you start puttingtying with your own hands, do not forget to clean the walls of dust, whitewash and other contaminants. Take into account the specifics of technology and required type putty under different types coverings.

During the puttying process, mistakes can be made that can cause you not only to be nervous, but also to redo the entire job from the very beginning. If this is your first experience with puttying yourself, then this article is for you. First of all, it is necessary to understand how the processes of plastering and putty differ, since they are often confused. Putty is used on almost level surfaces that require finishing before wallpapering or painting. Plaster, in turn, will help get rid of crooked walls. Only after applying the plaster can you begin to putty. It is also worth remembering that there is no point in puttying if you are going to lay tiles or use other finishing materials.

Mistakes when puttingtying walls

Dirty tools

It is important to treat puttying with all the scrupulousness that you have. The solution can only be diluted in a clean, practically sterile bucket. Any foreign objects and contaminants must be removed, since a small thread or pebble will certainly stick to the spatula and remain on the walls. The first batch of solution is over - wash the bucket and mix a new one. It is advisable to acquire a special bucket only for these works. In general, make it a rule to keep all your tools clean!

Incorrectly selected spatula

Many people come to the store and take the most expensive and “coolest” spatula, concluding that it is good, forming their opinion only on the basis of the high price. In fact, everything is much simpler. You need to take the tool that suits you, regardless of its price. It’s very easy to check your compatibility with a spatula. Take a wide spatula and apply it to the wall. We inspect the joint for gaps. If they exist, then we continue the search. We tilt the tool and check again, only slight deviations in the corners are acceptable. Try to use a soft weapon. Since you are a beginner, your movements are unclear. A hard putty knife will leave streaks behind because you press it too hard against the wall. A flexible tool will adapt to your movements. A tough tool is suitable for a master of his craft. Only a professional can handle such a tool. Since you need two spatulas for work, choose one wide up to forty centimeters, and the second up to twelve. A narrow spatula is needed to remove the putty. When working, material sticks to the tool and dries out, do not forget to clean it.

Incorrect putty solution

This is the problem of all novice puttyers. In comparison, a properly diluted solution is similar to rich sour cream. We stick a narrow spatula into the solution up to the handle. It stands and does not fall over - everything is fine. We collect the material and apply it to a wide spatula, turning it over in the air. Good solution will hold without any problems. However, it is worth remembering that finishing layer more is being done liquid solution. Dry putty simply will not stick to the first layer and will crumble. The solution may be to apply a thin layer of primer on top of the first coat.

Dry walls

It is important to know that the primer must be applied three to four hours before puttying. Otherwise, you will not putty the walls, but simply smooth them with a spatula, on which dried material will accumulate. If you have to putty on highly absorbent walls, then apply the primer in a couple of minutes and spray them with water.

Insufficient thickness of the putty layer

Due to uncertainty in their actions, many people press the spatula too hard onto the surface. Another common mistake made by beginners. The first layer should be about one millimeter thick. The second layer is the final one, with its help it is necessary to smooth out all remaining unevenness.

Puttying from wall corners

These are the places that are the most crooked. That is, starting the puttying process from this place will only worsen the curvature. It is more correct to start working by stepping five centimeters to the side. Start working on the corners when this layer of putty has dried. By focusing on it as a beacon, you will get an even angle. It is important to work gradually. We wait until one side dries and only then proceed to the other. If you become the owner of an apartment with round corners, then initially you will have to work with a hammer drill. You won't get straight corners using putty alone.

Irregularities in the first layer of putty

Before applying the second coat, be sure to go over the first with a dry spatula. This is done in order to eliminate shortcomings.

Wrong type of putty

You need to buy putty with an exact plan of what you will do next. If your next step is wallpapering, then there is nothing complicated - any will do. Painting requires finishing putty with a fine fraction. In this case, it is necessary to approach the choice of putty very carefully, since wallpaper hides flaws in the form of stripes or dents, and paint, on the contrary, makes them more obvious. Even a small scratch will be noticeable. Therefore, when puttingtying a wall with the intention of applying paint to it later, do it with additional lighting.

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Smooth walls are an attribute good repair, but hiring a crew is expensive. Puttying walls with your own hands is not so difficult that it cannot be handled. It is important to perform all actions consistently. Receive immediately the perfect wall It’s unlikely that it will work for painting, but you can putty it under wallpaper without much difficulty. And to help you, a description of the process, photos and videos.

What are they and when to use them

Putty is the preparation of surfaces for finishing finishing. With its help, they ensure that the wall is (or looks) perfectly flat. It is applied to relatively flat surfaces. If you need it. Putty is not intended for this.

Like plasters, putties consist of a binder, filler and additives that give them special properties. They are distinguished from plasters by the use of aggregates - sand - fine fractions. Two types of binders are used - cement or gypsum, sometimes lime and polymer additives are added to them. Accordingly, there are gypsum and cement putties.

There are also polymer putties - acrylic and latex. They are created on the basis of synthetic substances, the properties of which vary depending on the additives. They are not natural, but have a longer service life and can withstand a greater number of freezing/defrosting cycles. For facade works It's better to choose them. Indoors they are not the best best choice, since they have low vapor permeability, which can cause damp walls, the appearance of fungus and mold. They are convenient because they can be used on wooden and metal surfaces.

According to the type of application, all putties are divided into two types: starting and finishing. The starting ones use larger grains of sand - 0.3-0.8 mm. This results in a slightly rough surface. They are used at the first stage to seal depressions and cracks. In finishing compositions, sand is practically dust with a very fine grain of 0.1-0.3 mm. This allows for a smooth surface.

Cement plasters - scope, advantages and disadvantages

Cement plasters are cheaper than gypsum plasters and can be applied in a thicker layer - some compositions are up to 10 mm. After mixing (mixing with water) they can be used within about 3 hours. The plasticity of the composition is affected by temperature and humidity. Usually it is indicated for +20°C and humidity 60-65%.

Cement plasters are universal. They are used both for finishing inside and outside the building. Moreover, most facade compositions are made on a cement basis, as they can withstand more defrost/freeze cycles and create a more durable surface. They also do better in damp areas. If you need to plaster a bathroom or kitchen, use better composition based on cement.

Cement plaster can be white or gray

The color of cement plasters can be gray, white and ultra-white. This depends on the type of cement used. White compositions are more expensive, since more expensive brands are used, therefore finishing compositions are often made white.

Flaw cement plasters- long setting time - several days for complete drying - this is the norm. Several hours should pass before the next layer is applied. From 2-3 hours with a layer of 1 mm, up to 24 with a thickness of 6 mm. Since it is rarely possible to achieve a smooth surface in one layer - there can be three or more - puttying with cement plasters takes a long time. For this reason, their popularity is quite low.

Gypsum putties, their features

The layer of gypsum putty applied is 0.5-10 mm, depending on the type. They dry much faster, which has a positive effect on speed. finishing works. On the other hand, the mixed composition must be used within 30-60 minutes, so such putties are mixed in small portions. It's not very convenient. If you are going to putty the walls with your own hands for the first time, start with small batches. Gradually decide how much you can produce at a time. Also keep in mind that the consumption of starting plaster is greater than that of finishing plaster - the thickness of the layer is different and you can’t be mistaken in the volume.

Gypsum plasters without modifying additives are intended for dry rooms. There are also formulations for wet ones, but this must be indicated on the packaging, since they contain hydrophobic additives.

Despite the higher price and short shelf life of the mixed portion, gypsum-based plasters are now more popular. They are more flexible, it is easier to use them to achieve the required surface smoothness, and they are easier for beginners and professionals to work with. If wall putty is still unfamiliar to you, use gypsum compounds.

Technology

The technique for applying plasters is the same for any composition. What matters is only compliance with the recipe indicated on the packaging (ratio of water and dry mass) and the time within which it must be used. Otherwise, the plastering technique is the same.

Preparing the base

Work begins on a dry and clean base. If there is an old covering, everything that can fall is cleaned off, cracks are opened, screws and nails, remnants of wallpaper and other coverings are removed.

As sad as it may be, both paint and whitewash must be removed. Paint for the reason that the putty does not stick well to it, and if it does stick, it may later fall off. The whitewash is removed because it is loose. With it, after priming, adhesion is normal, but after a while the finish begins to crack and peel. If you don’t want to redo the ceiling or wall again in a year and a half, you need to clean off the lime.

After the old coating is removed, remove the dust. If there is industrial vacuum cleaner, you can use it (you can’t use a household one - it will break). If you don’t have such equipment, you can first go over it with a dry broom, then with a brush, and finally with a slightly damp cloth to collect the residue.

Primer

Priming walls under plaster is used to ensure that the materials adhere better. Its second task is to reduce the amount of moisture absorbed by the base. This is very important on porous surfaces such as brick, dry plastered wall, etc. On walls that are loose and prone to crumbling, use special compounds deep penetration. They bind particles of material to each other, increasing the overall strength of the base.

To receive guaranteed good result It is better not to skip this stage. Even though primers cost a lot.

Primers are sold either as ready-to-use mixtures or as liquid concentrates. The second type requires additional dilution with water. In any case, before use, carefully read the instructions and follow them strictly.

Usually the technology is as follows: the composition is poured into a container and distributed over the surface using a brush or roller. In difficult places - corners and bends, go thoroughly with a brush. If two or more layers are needed, they are applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Tools

To putty the walls directly, you only need two spatulas. One large, with a long blade (300-600 mm) and one small. The small ones take the composition out of the container and distribute it over the blade of the large one. They also use it to remove the remains from the blade and distribute them again along the edge. A large spatula is needed directly to distribute the composition over the wall.

The blade of a large spatula should be made of stainless steel. It should be flexible, without nicks or scratches. If you look at it in profile, you can see that its ends are slightly bent to one side. This was done specifically so that when puttingtying walls or ceilings, stripes from the edges of the blade would not appear on the surface. You can also work with a straight spatula, but you will not be able to get rid of the streaks, as a result - after drying you will have to compare them, and this is a long and dusty job.

You will also need a container in which to mix the putty and a construction mixer or drill with a stirring attachment. It is better to take a plastic container - a bucket or basin with high sides. Pay attention to the shape of the bottom. The transition from the bottom to the walls should be smooth. Then it is possible to mix the entire composition without residue or lumps.

Wall putty technique

In general, everything has already been said, but let’s focus specifically on the process and sequence of work. First, the putty is mixed. Water is poured into a bucket, the dry composition is added to it, making sure that there are no lumps. You need to wait a while until the whole mass gets wet, then you can stir. Kneading can be mechanical or manual. This is indicated on the packaging with the putty. When you have achieved a homogeneous composition without lumps, you can begin work.

Apply the putty to the wall using a large spatula. The composition is applied small on it, forming a roller two to three centimeters wide and about a centimeter high on the edge of the blade. If the composition is thick, you can take more solution; if it is liquid, it can flow, so the roller is made small.

Step 1. Starting putty. If there are large irregularities - more than 3 mm, they are first covered with starting putty. If the unevenness is only in places, only these are repaired, bringing them to the same level as the surface. If there are a lot of them, you will have to putty the entire surface. When working It is advisable not to exceed the maximum permissible layer thickness, otherwise cracks may appear or the finish will fall off. If there are no significant irregularities, you can do without this layer. But in this case, the consumption of the finishing composition will be greater, and it costs more than the starting one.

The thickness of the putty layer that remains on the wall is adjusted by the angle of the spatula. If it is strongly inclined towards the wall, the layer remains thicker; if the angle is closer to a straight line (60-70°), it can be 1 mm.

There is another technique for applying putty. It is called "na sdir". In this case, the spatula is placed perpendicular to the wall. As a result, only pores, streaks and other defects are covered, and consumption is minimal. But this technique only works on smooth walls, without deviations in geometry. putty uneven walls with differences of more than 1-2 mm using this method is impossible.

Step 2. Leveling the first layer. After the starting layer has dried (time indicated on the package), take sandpaper for grinding and it is used to smooth out the most prominent irregularities. Most often these are stripes, but due to inexperience, bumps may also appear. After sanding is completed, dust is swept away from the walls with a broom, then brushed with a dry brush.

Step 3. Finishing putty of the walls. A layer of finishing putty, no more than a few millimeters thick, is applied to the cleaned walls. At this stage you should already try to get flat surface, carefully leveling the composition. Leave to dry.

Step 4. Align the final layers. For this stage, take a mesh with a finer cell. They try to get a smooth surface. For normal results it is necessary good lighting. The absence of defects is also checked with the palm of your hand.

That's all. Next, step 3 and 4 are repeated until you are satisfied with the result. A little about the extent to which it is necessary to level the walls. It all depends on the type finishing, which you have chosen. If the walls are puttied under wallpaper, there is no need to achieve perfect smoothness. Even the most thin wallpaper hide small differences. Multilayer ones are less demanding on the surface paper wallpaper- duplex or triplex. A more even base is necessary for a non-woven base, as well as for all vinyl wallpapers except foam and textured ones.

The requirements for putty for painting are higher. The paint does not hide even the most minor flaws, so you have to level it up perfect condition. Up to six very thin coats may be needed.

How to make smooth corners with putty

You saw several methods in the video - just remove the mass well from the very corner. Everything seems simple, but in practice it turns out to be difficult and not very smooth. For beginner plasterers, there are special corner spatulas for the outer and inner corners.

After applying a certain amount of putty to the corner, they apply it, removing the excess and forming an ideal line. It's easier to work with them.