All coolers have bearings. There are different types of plain bearings or just a bushing, or a rolling bearing. Fans with a conventional hub usually have a shorter service life compared to fans with rolling bearings. Usually the fan with sleeve bearings wears out, you can hear the fan starts to hum, vibration appears, sometimes it just jams and stops, in this case we have overheating or some kind of alarm from the motherboard or installed drivers.

The cooler in the computer is noisy

When a user complains to you that their computer is loud, there are actually only two types of components that can create that noise: disk drives and cooling fans. But in most cases, you will find that the noise is generated by one of the cooling fans inside the computer. Most computers have three cooling fans, one inside the power supply, one on the case itself, and one on the processor. Of course, each of these cooling fans is designed to keep the entire system as cool as possible by creating a constant air flow inside the case, which will receive cold air when moving hot air.

If any of these cooling fans fail, the system can overheat and cause problems. So your first instinct is to simply replace the noisy fan. Although this is a fairly simple operation, it is not always necessary. In many cases, the cooler only needs one drop of oil.

The cooler on the processor, power supply or video card does not spin

If the cooler on the processor, video card and power supply does not spin, then you may have two reasons.

First reason, the most common and inexpensive, the cooler has stopped spinning because its lubricant has dried out and after one drop of oil it will serve you faithfully.

Second reason, this is a failed cooler, you can check it with a multimeter in dialing mode; if it rings, it means the cooler is in working condition. You need to call the black and red wires.

How can I lubricate the cooler?

Many people use WD-40 to lubricate all sorts of squeaky or noisy mechanical components around their home and office. But don't try to use WD-40 to lubricate your computer fan. WD-40 is formulated as a cleaner/degreaser that can be used to loosen stuck parts, prevent corrosion, and displace water—all kinds of problems not typically found in computer fans. WD-40 is also a lightweight lubricant that is better at lubricating something like a hinge that only moves occasionally, rather than a computer component like a fan that is constantly moving at high speeds.

I prefer to use machine oil or oil for sewing machines, since it, in addition to being a light oil, has excellent viscosity and holds well at high temperatures and is specially designed for lubricating moving parts operating on high speeds. There is also a special silicone oil for coolers.

How does a computer cooler work?

Almost all computer cooling fans are designed around a sleeve bearing assembly, although I have encountered some computer cooling fans that use a ball bearing assembly. In this article I will focus on the assembly of plain bearings.

The journal bearing assembly consists of a shaft (to which the fan blade is attached) that rotates inside a stationary cylinder. In this case, the cylinder is made of porous metal impregnated with oil. As the shaft rotates, oil is forced out of the cylinder, creating a film of oil along which the shaft moves. This film of oil prevents metal-to-metal contact and thereby eliminates friction and almost all noise. This type of bearing assembly is shown in the picture above.

A plain bearing assembly consists of a shaft that rotates inside a stationary cylinder.

In an ideal bearing arrangement, the amount of oil in the bearing is the correct amount and remains constant throughout the life of the fan. However, if the assembly is not sealed properly, some of the oil may dry out over time. When this happens, the rotating shaft will come into direct contact with the stationary cylinder, which creates a scraping or grinding sound.

In addition to noise, increased friction will cause the fan to spin more slowly, which in turn will reduce airflow. If airflow is reduced, the system will run hotter than it should, putting certain components at risk of failure. Replenishing the oil in the journal bearing assembly will change this condition.

How to lubricate the power supply cooler and system unit cooler.

First, unscrew the cooler in the computer, disconnect the wires going to the cooler, clean off the dust, and place it on the table, if this cooler is from the power supply or the cooler is from the outlet warm air from the system unit, then carefully remove the sticker located on opposite side blades. There must be sealing rubber or a plastic cover that you need to open and use a syringe to drop a drop of oil.

Then rotate the cooler blades with your fingers so that the oil is distributed evenly over the entire surface. Next, close the sealing rubber plug and glue the sticker; if the sticker does not stick, then glue a piece of insulated material instead.

There are also non-separable coolers, they don’t have a sticker rubber seal There is a plastic insert soldered in there. However, this type of cooler can also be lubricated, but this is more difficult. But some non-separable coolers do not have a fixed washer, so the impeller can come out with little effort with your fingers; we try to separate the cooler blades from the body without strong efforts if the cooler blades have separated, then lubricate the shaft with oil and insert it back; if not, then read on. To lubricate a non-separable cooler, we need a drill or pliers and a not too large drill of 2-4 mm. We drill a hole in the center, just be careful not to overdo it and damage the shaft and bearings, remove the plastic shavings from the hole then drop 1-2 drops of oil into drilled hole preferably using a syringe. After lubricating, rotate the cooler blades to distribute the oil evenly and cover the hole with electrical tape or something else of your choice, the main thing is to prevent the oil from running back out.

I advise you not to pour oil to the very edges as excess oil will still leak out.

How to lubricate a video card and processor cooler

To lubricate the cooler of a video card, you must first remove the video card; there will be a cooler with a radiator on it. If you have not changed the thermal paste for a long time, it is advisable to remove the cooler together with the radiator and change the thermal paste at the same time, read also how to apply thermal paste correctly. There will be basically 3 bolts under the cooler blades; unscrew them and disconnect the cooler from the radiator, but it should come out without effort.

WITH reverse side The impeller has a sticker, we also peel it off and see if there is a plastic or rubber cover, then remove the cover and roll a drop of oil, turn the impeller with your fingers and put everything back together in the reverse order.

If there is no cover behind the sticker, then take a drill from 2-4 mm, and you can use a drill; if there is no drill, you can turn the drill with pliers or poke it with a knife, if there is nothing at all, remove the plastic shavings and drip 1-2 drops of oil and seal the drilled hole with electrical tape so that the oil goes away nothing happened.

With lubrication of the processor cooler, basically everything is the same, only the attachment of the cooler to the radiator is different. It can be fixed with latches or secured with bolts. There are also types of coolers where you do not need to disconnect the cooler from the radiator to lubricate it, on them the cooler is immediately facing the side we need.

If you don’t quite understand how to lubricate the cooler, watch the video below where everything is shown clearly.

Video

Misunderstanding of the nature of certain computer problems often leads to diagnostic errors, without which qualified repairs are impossible. And you should approach the search for a problem with its accurate description. A malfunction that is described with the words: “when you press the power button, the computer does not turn on, but the fans work” is called a lack of initialization or an initialization error. It should not be confused with “non-powering” - complete inaction when pressing power, since the causes of these two problems are usually different.

Initialization, in in this case- this is the readiness of the equipment for operation. And if any of the devices critical for starting the PC refuses to start, we will observe a characteristic picture:

• after turning on the system unit, a loud noise from the fans is heard (they rotate at a constant high speed);
• The keyboard and power indicators come on and do not go out;
• the screen remains black.

Nothing else happens.

Reasons

According to statistics, most often the source similar problem becomes the following:

• damage to the BIOS - a program stored in the CMOS flash memory chip on the motherboard, responsible for the initial boot of the PC, as well as for checking and consistency of operation of all its devices at the startup stage;
• a failed processor or a malfunction of its power supply system;
• RAM malfunction ( RAM) or incompatibility of the installed RAM strips with each other;
• malfunction of system logic chips (chipset) on the motherboard, especially often the north bridge.

Other reasons that can also cause such a “clinic” include damage to the components of the motherboard, leading to destabilization of the device’s power supply, a defect in the solder contacts of the microcircuits, a power supply with voltage “drop” along individual lines, a dead CMOS battery, as well as other problems equipment installed on the PC. However, this is less common.

It is also important to understand that this problem is never the result of software glitches in the operating system. Because its download doesn't even start.

Diagnostics

What can a user do if he finds himself in such a situation? Even without special equipment, you can try to solve the problem at home. It is enough to know how to use a screwdriver.

Resetting BIOS settings to factory settings

This is the simplest and sometimes very effective way troubleshoot computer boot problems. If your case is not the most difficult, perhaps it will help.

• Turn off the computer's power and remove the system unit cover.
• Find the coin cell battery on the motherboard and remove it from the socket.
• connect the contacts of the battery socket to each other, for example, using a screwdriver;
• reinstall the battery.

There is another option for resetting the BIOS - using a Clear CMOS jumper. It must be removed for 15 - 20 seconds. and move it to two adjacent contacts, and then return it to its place. Sometimes the jumper is called differently: CL_CMOS, CCMOS, CLRTC, CRTC, etc.

After completing these operations, connect the power to the computer and try to turn it on. If the problem is resolved, its cause lies in an incorrect BIOS Setup configuration.

Disable everything unnecessary

If the first method did not help, move on. Let's try to exclude the influence of equipment that is not necessary for successful start PC. To do this, you need to prepare a table covered with insulating material (polyethylene, rubber, plastic, wood, etc.) on which you will assemble the stand.

Let's get started:

• turn off the power to the PC and remove the case cover;
• remove expansion cards from the slots of the motherboard, disconnect the power and interface cables from it, remove the memory sticks;
• remove motherboard from the case, place it on the table and inspect for artifacts - swollen capacitors, signs of overheating (darkening and deformation of plastic parts), mechanical damage and other defects;
• if there are no artifacts, install one memory stick in the slot, connect a video card (if there is no built-in one), a monitor, a previously removed boot hard drive and power supply;
• turn on the power supply to the mains;
• use a screwdriver to close the contacts of the power button - Power Switch (can be labeled as ON, PWR_ON, PC_ON) - this action is similar to turning on the computer by pressing this button.

If you see the operating system loading on the monitor, it means that the failure is caused by one of the disconnected devices. Well, if nothing happens besides the rotation of the fans again, let’s try to figure it out in more detail.

• Start the system. Carefully touch the processor heatsink and large board components - microcircuits, mosfets, etc. - normally they should be warm. Strong heating (don’t get burned!) indicates a malfunction of the elements (soldering defect, short circuit), and a complete lack of heating (room temperature) most likely indicates that the unit is not receiving supply voltage.
• Turn off the power to the PC. Remove the memory stick, remove the oxide layer on its contacts by rubbing it with a school eraser, blow out the slot where it was located, and install it back. Turn on your computer. If the problem is solved, the reason was poor contact between the RAM and the board connector. If it doesn't work, install the bar in another slot - it might be the culprit.

We replace components with known good ones

None of the methods helped? The last thing left that can be done at home is to replace PC devices one by one with working ones, of course, compatible with your system. However, there is a risk of damaging them.

If there is no such possibility or desire, or if the described problem occurs on the laptop, the only remaining option is to contact a service center.

There are many important components in a car, and the quality of the car as a whole depends on how well they work. One of these is the cooling system. It often happens on some models that the cooling fan is constantly running. It's not very good sign. Insufficient engine cooling can lead to overheating of the engine - and this, in turn, can cost the owner a large sum of money. major renovation. But if you know the reasons for such operation in the cooling system, you can quickly identify where the fault is hidden and eliminate it. In order to find a breakdown, you do not need special knowledge and skills. Even a beginner can handle this. There are not many reasons why the cooling fan is constantly running.

The principle of operation of a fan in a cooling system

One of the reasons why a fan may run constantly or turn on frequently is due to the way the system operates. The fan starts at the command of a special sensor. It is located on the bottom of the radiator. This sensor is responsible for the coolant temperature indicators. If it is larger than needed, then the radiator fan will start.

When its blades rotate, additional airflow is created. It helps reduce which then passes through the channels in the engine. The cooling fan constantly works only on motors that for some reason overheat. To avoid serious problems, it is necessary to respond to this problem immediately.

Thermostat

The engine may overheat due to the thermostat. It often happens that the mechanism of this element jams. The fan, in turn, necessarily reacts to this. The thermostat itself remains only half open.

As a result, the coolant cannot effectively remove heat from the engine as its movement through the system slows down. When the power unit overheats and the coolant temperature rises, the sensor reacts to this event and starts the fan. Owners of Opel Astra cars often encounter this problem - the cooling fan is constantly running. And the problem is solved by replacing the thermostat.

How to check the cooling system thermostat

Testing it is quite simple. To do this, you need to start the engine and warm it up to such temperatures that the valves of this mechanism operate. You can find out the temperature threshold directly on the device body. Usually it is 72 or 80 degrees. Then you need to check the temperature at the lower and upper pipes. If both are at approximately the same temperature, then the reason why the cooling fan is constantly running has been found. It is recommended to carefully inspect the thermostat valves after removing it. It is useless to repair this unit (it is easier and cheaper to buy a new one). By the way, if this element is dismantled, it can be checked without installing it in the car. To do this, the thermostat is placed in a container of water, which is then heated. Increasingly, the valve should open. If this does not happen, the device is faulty.

Cooling pump

Sometimes the reason why the cooling fan keeps running and won't turn off is the water pump. The temperature in the radiator rises because its speed is slowed down. When liquid enters the cooling radiator, the antifreeze simply does not have time to cool to the required temperatures and passes to the next round. At the same time, the liquid heats up even more.

When the pump works somehow, the fan may indicate a problem. If the pump is completely broken, then the engine will immediately boil - this is where they usually start serious problems and expensive repairs.

Pump faults

Often, the pump does not stop working suddenly. Initially, the pump gives various signals about breakdowns - for example, the engine cooling fan is constantly running or turns on frequently.

The main reason for pump failure is the bearing - it jams or collapses. You can tell that the pump has failed by the characteristic sounds coming from under the hood. They sound like some kind of howling or knocking. These sounds can be heard even on idle speed. Novice motorists often do not pay attention to these noises. Pump knocks are mistaken for camshaft malfunctions. To fix the problem, you need to replace the pump. Depending on the model, it is possible to install only the front part of the pump and replace the bearing.

Clogged cooling system channels

Often the engine overheats due to congestion in the cooling system. The situation is further complicated by the fact that diagnosing this problem can be quite difficult. Therefore, if the cooling fan constantly works or turns on more often than usual, it would not be superfluous to flush the SOD channels. In most cases, these activities are more than enough to ensure everything works correctly. Experts also recommend not limiting yourself to just flushing, but also additionally venting the radiator.

How to clean the cooling system

When cleaning the channels of the cooling system and radiator, the antifreeze is also replaced. To perform flushing, the old antifreeze must be drained. Then a fairly strong solution based on citric acid. It's effective folk remedy, but there are also various liquids with additives.

After this, start the engine - so the car should run for 30 minutes. This is enough to thoroughly clean all channels. Then you can turn off the engine, drain the cleaning mixture, and finally add fresh antifreeze. Often in this way it is possible to completely solve problems in the operation of the cooling system if the reasons are contamination.

Clogged radiator

Experienced car owners know that the radiator is installed in the front of the car. When moving, it is blown by wind and air from the street. Also, it is the radiator that receives all the dirt and road dust. Poplar fluff, bird feathers and much more accumulate on the element. Over time, all this debris gets clogged inside the plates, thereby reducing the efficiency of heat transfer. The counter cools antifreeze poorly. It gets hot and the cooling fan is constantly running.

How to flush a radiator

To correct the situation and protect the motor from harmful overheating, it is recommended to clean the element. On most modern cars, the part must first be dismantled, but cleaning can often be done without dismantling.

Experts recommend cleaning with ordinary water. It is best if it is supplied through a hose. Sometimes it makes sense to clean the radiator cells with a brush and only then flush them. Often this procedure is combined with blowing the radiator with compressed air.

Air locks in the cooling system

For experienced car owners, air locks are not a secret at all. They arise due to some errors during the process of replacing the coolant. Leaks in the system are also the cause. Antifreeze cannot warm up evenly. This leads to instability in the fan operation. It often turns on or even works without interruption - hot coolant enters the radiator. Before you try to eliminate these same traffic jams, you need to check the system for leaks. If they are found, then they should be eliminated. Next you need to remove the plugs. For this you need a compressor. One tube is unscrewed from the throttle, which supplies fluid. Then a compressor is connected to the neck of the expansion tank and the air supply begins. Two to three minutes will be enough for all traffic jams to go away.

Problems with the temperature sensor

If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2107 is constantly running, then the radiator temperature sensor on both carburetor and injection cars is often to blame. In most cases, it is simply in a closed state.

If these are the symptoms, then check the time for which the fan turns on and compare the temperature when it turns on with the standard one. If the indicators are lower, then the problem is easily solved by replacing the sensor.

Insulation for winter

Many motorists try during winter - there is an opinion that this way the engine will warm up faster and save fuel. However, during thaws the air temperature rises. If insulation is installed, the engine will not be able to cool effectively. This may be the answer to the question of why it constantly works. But this is a fairly rare reason.

Let's sum it up

So, among the most popular reasons why a fan is unstable are problems with electronics. This is exactly what most car owners complain about on specialized forums. Many solve this problem by replacing the sensor and fuses. And it helps. In half of the cases, the issue can be resolved by replacing the thermostat. The situation can also be improved by cleaning the radiator.

Problems happen on any car; this topic worries Ford Focus car owners. The cooling fan runs constantly on luxury cars as well. It is important to notice this problem in time, otherwise it can lead to disastrous consequences. In case of severe overheating, the engine can only be helped by a major overhaul with the replacement of the cylinder head, cylinders, pistons and other components.

I was too lazy to write this material in the summer, but nevertheless it will be useful for the next “shitty winter”)))
Despite. that summer is already over, but that long heat that burned us in every sense will remain in the memory of many for a long time. I already wrote, but the most popular product has taken all the top charts in hardware stores and stores household appliances became a fan and air conditioner. When weather forecasters became something closer to God for us for a couple of months, we all rushed to buy up fans and this mass of plastic whirring blades blew on our sweaty, exhausted bodies for days on end. Someone was luckier and had not one, but two fans, which undoubtedly caused wild envy among those who only had the opportunity to see the price tag on an empty counter. But one way or another, any mechanical equipment sooner or later fails, which includes tabletop and floor-mounted “spits”. People's fans especially often broke down in the heat when they were threshing tirelessly 25 hours a day. Many simply stupidly threw their saviors into a landfill or placed them in the hallway for the simple reason “when you plug in the fan, it does not spin or spins extremely slowly, making a hum and emitting a smell.” I also encountered the same problem when my fan stopped working. Since fans are in short supply in stores, and I constantly want airflow, I began to repair the fan, and at the same time decided to get to the bottom of the problem of its failure.
Despite the fact that there are floor and table fans, the difference in design between them is no more than between a fork and a spoon. Therefore, anyone who understands how I disassembled my floor fan will probably understand how to disassemble the table fan.
So, move closer to the monitor, Uncle Chinilkin begins the instructions.

Photo 1. We take and place a fan next to us, and also put a screwdriver, pliers, a cotton rag and an oil can next to it. If you don’t know how to use these things, then invite your dad or mom to the monitor.
Photo 2. Remove the protective mesh from the fan by opening three latches.
Photo 3. Unscrew the plastic nut counterclockwise. When you wrap it back, do not use too much force so as not to break it. You can't buy a spare anywhere!
Photo 4. Now easily remove the impeller from the motor axis. Again, be careful as the plastic the impeller is made from will dry out and crumble over time. If you break the landing place, you will be perverted with electrical tape, wrapping it around the landing place on the shaft in order to somehow restore the transmission of rotation.
Photo 5. After removing the impeller, unscrew the plastic star nut that secures the rear grille to the body.
Photo 6: Now remove all the screws from the front of the case. Sometimes the screws don't come out well, but don't overdo it with a screwdriver, otherwise you'll loosen the threads in the plastic.
Photo 7. Unscrew the screw from the back wall of the case which, in fact, secures the case casing.
Photo 8. Now that the casing is removed, you see that the main part of your drive consists of two things: the motor itself, which fortunately is made of metal, and the gearbox rotary mechanism made of plastic. This gearbox consists of a worm gear and a sprocket, which turns your fan left and right during operation. Attached to the gearbox small screw a capacitor that is needed so that the fan motor can start.
Photo 9. Tighten the 3 screws (or screws, depending on who you choose) that secure the gearbox flange to the engine and carefully remove the plastic filling of the gearbox. In the photo you see the rear shaft shank with a worm, with which the gearbox mechanism engages. By the way, anyone interested can unscrew 3 more screws of the gearbox and look inside and find that the mechanism there is completely plastic and lubricated with thick lubricant.
Photo 10. Now it’s time to unscrew the 4 screws that connect the two halves of the motor housing to the stator. Place screws and bolts in a jar so that you don’t have to look for them under the table or sofa later.
Photo 11. Slowly pull off the rear wall of the engine, if necessary, turning it along the axis of the engine.
Photo 12. Do the same with the front cover. Please note that there is also a rubber gasket on the shaft, which is also important to preserve. But for now it needs to be pulled off the shaft and placed in the same jar.
Photo 13. Take the covers in your hands and first use a cloth to remove all the dirt in the bearing assembly. You can wrap the rag around a thin rod to make it easier to slide the rag through the hole. After that, degrease everything with acetone or gasoline, wipe it dry again and drip it from the oil can into the bearing (the hole in the center of the cover). Use only liquid lubricant! No lithol, solid oil, etc.! During operation, the grease will coke (form carbon deposits) on the shaft within a couple of days continuous operation in the heat and you will again climb to disassemble your cooler.
Photo 14. Now about the most important thing - the reason for the engine jamming. The main reason for jamming of fans, i.e. The main reason for the failure is the very thick lubricant that is in the gearbox and on the rear shaft of the engine. During operation, the lubricant is carried along the shaft into the bearing and carbon deposits form there, which becomes larger over time and jams the engine. It is imperative to wipe off all the thick grease from the shaft shank and in the gearbox itself on the part that will engage with this shaft! Necessarily! There is no point in lubrication in a plastic gearbox until it is made of metal.
You need to put everything back together in reverse order, just as the Chinese did before you.
If the picture is too small, then click on it and look larger.

Hi all! In this article I will tell you what to do if your fan suddenly stops working. Don’t rush to throw it away and run to the store to buy a new one. Perhaps it’s too early for the old air mixer to retire and he can be revived! How to extend the life of a fan?! Read the article further!

Yesterday it was hot outside.

My wife and I thought that our store clerk would be very uncomfortable without a fan. It's time to install it. They brought it. Let's turn it on, but it won't turn on.

It doesn’t turn on and that’s it! You can even plug him in, press buttons, sing songs to him, persuade him - no matter what! The propeller does not spin. We even brought a second fan so that we could take the first one home and try to fix it there. But then they decided to fix it right in the store! At the same time, write an article about it!

Why doesn't the fan turn on?!

And here, attention, one little secret. If the fan propeller does not spin, this does not mean that the fan has died and should be parted with. Nevermind!

The fact is that, as it turned out, almost all such fans have one big problem. The most common.

The motor, which is responsible for rotating the propeller, dries out from time to time. Yes, yes, he lacks lubrication, which is why he is not able to cope with his task - to turn the metal pin. Therefore, the engine needs to be helped and lubricated properly with machine (or any technical) oil!

To do this, you need to disassemble the fan.

What tools are needed to disassemble the fan?

In order to disassemble your old friend - the air mixer, you will need the following tools:

1. Phillips screwdriver (take some Phillips bits for it)

2. Knife (to pry off one small white plug).

How to disassemble a fan: step-by-step instructions

1. First, remove the rim by unscrewing the first screw (top). In some types of fan, it may not be present. It could just be latches.

2. Then remove the fan blade (no screwdriver needed for this).

3. Unscrew the retaining nut and remove the fan protective frame.

4. Then you will see 4 screws that need to be removed.

5. Remove the panel

6. Then unscrew the upper fan position lock. There's a small screw inside there.

7. Use a knife to pry off the white plug located at the back of the fan.

8. And unscrew the cross-shaped screw found there.

9. You will have such a most interesting contraption in your hands.

By the way, when I was disassembling the fan, out of ignorance, I also unscrewed the bottom screw of the holder, thinking that if I didn’t do this, I wouldn’t remove the top cover.

Yes, yes, the cockerel was shocked too! Do you see his eyes?!

In general, it was not necessary to unscrew this screw. The lid would have come off anyway. But screwing it back in turned out to be not such a simple thing. After all, the upper structure of the fan prevents you from getting to the screw.

10. Well, now, generously drip engine oil into the motor (see the black hole in the photo where the spring is visible)