Nikolay Mukhin - Master of metal and wood.

This page is an introduction to him, where his works speak for themselves. For about 24 years now Nikolay lives in Siberia, once arrived from Voronezh.

Technologies the creation of his machines is only an intermediate link on the way to Stalker-technological approaches to design. And here we are We especially emphasize this. However, this is already an opportunity to work independently in any place where there are no conventional energy sources. If desired, the Machines can be activated and from Water or Wind Drives or from any available sources Mechanical energy with the same belt.

And although they are created in a technologically dependent way, they are still capable of bringing a lot of benefits and being relatively durable.

Nikolay also has examples of the execution of Muscular (Muscular-driven or Foot-driven machines, otherwise - mechanical machines with a muscular drive) combined from metal, with frame parts made of wood.

When worn ball bearings, which can still happen sooner or later in the rotation units, can be relatively simply replace the bearings with birch bushings.

The mechanical transmission is a classic crank mechanism, V-belt and belt belt drives.

Nikolai’s machines, created back in 97, 98 still work in a taiga settlement, remote from roads and electrical networks. Personally, I drilled it myself metal 20 mm. with a drill 16 mm thick, he adjusted and sharpened the tool with the strength of one leg, and sharpened the wood. Moreover, we even managed to sharpen metal hand cutter, as in the old days, and cut the metal sheet, made of self-hardening rapid, with disks made of plain 0.3 mm tin. steel 3.

People who come into contact with his muscular machines for the first time, trying them at work, take their breath away. Some people literally scream. Many say that they could not even imagine that it was possible to turn the machine with one foot under the load of a cutter or drill.

Watching this from the side, I whispered to Kolya: “You managed to make not just machines, but Mechanisms of change of Consciousness... It's theirs main role, - to treat people from electrotechnocracy.” Kolya knows what I did too Pottery machine welded structure on birch bearings precisely for this purpose. So that no one would later say that this is nonsense. Let them try it in their work and base their opinion on fact, and not on speculation. Unlike ideas and illusions.

Lathe on wood with a muscular drive and crank-belt drive.

Drilling foot driven machine. Muscular drilling machine.

Leg Muscular Emery(Sandpaper) sharpening or as they also say Sharpening machine, and in common parlance - a sharpener with a factory-made abrasive.

As you know, household sewing machines come with manual, foot and electric drives. Sewing machine with foot driven gives a higher speed of rotation of the flywheel compared to a manually driven machine, and frees the hands of the worker from rotating the flywheel. All this creates best conditions for work, leads to increased productivity and improves product quality.

Foot operated sewing machine

In sewing factories, workshops, and ateliers, industrial universal and special sewing machines are used. On special machines, only one operation is performed: buttons are sewn on, buttonholes are made, seams are sewn, embroidered, etc. On universal machines, many operations can be performed on sewing parts and processing sections of the product, and with the help of devices, the product can be sewn from start to finish. Household sewing machines are universal.

Exercise

Look at Figure 28, find the indicated parts on the sewing machine and tell us how a foot-operated sewing machine differs from sewing machine with manual drive.

Foot drive. The foot drive (Fig. 29) has a pedal 9 mounted on screws (centers). It is set into an oscillatory motion by the legs of the worker. This movement, using the connecting rod 8 and the crank 7, turns into a rotational one and is transmitted to the starting wheel 4. The rim of the starting wheel has a groove into which a round belt 3 is inserted. The belt connects the starting wheel to the flywheel pulley 2 mounted on the main shaft of the machine.

Thus, the rotation of the starting wheel is transmitted via a belt to the flywheel pulley. For safety reasons, the starting wheel is covered at the front with a shield 6. At the end of the work, the belt is removed from the starting wheel using a pulley 5.

Sanitary requirements and safety regulations

When working on a sewing machine with a foot drive, you must observe basically the same sanitary and hygienic requirements and safety rules as when working on a machine with a manual drive (Appendices 4 and 5). Besides:

1. When working on a foot-powered sewing machine, you must pay attention to special attention on the position of the arms and legs

2. Do not wear the belt while the machine is running.

3. Do not hold the belt with your hand, otherwise you may injure your hand with the paper clip.

5. Remove the belt from the rim of the starter wheel using a pulley.

Remember the words: foot drive, starter wheel, drive belt, guide, shield.

Questions

1. What sanitary and hygienic requirements must be observed when working on a sewing machine?

2. What safety rules must be followed when working on a foot-operated machine?

3. With the help of what part is the rotational movement of the starting wheel transmitted to the flywheel?

Exercises

1. Starting and stopping the machine

1) Put the car in free motion.

2) Move the flywheel of the machine. To do this, you need to put your feet on the pedal, your right foot slightly ahead of your left.

With your right hand, turn the flywheel towards you and, working with your feet, rock the pedal. Place your hands on the platform.

Make sure the flywheel rotates in the correct direction!

3) Stop the car. To do this, you need to stop rocking the pedal, and right hand hold the flywheel (fingers should be closed).

2. Working on a machine without threads

1) Put the machine in working motion.

2) Place fabric under the presser foot and lower the presser foot.

3) Move the flywheel of the machine. Watch the correct position of your hands and the movement of the fabric! The fabric should move in the direction away from the worker.

4) Stop the car.

Repeat the exercise several times.

Machine needle

The machine needle is one of the important working parts of the sewing machine. She pierces the fabric and threads it through the eyelet. Depending on the type of work performed, needles are used in different machines. different lengths and shape (Fig. 31). Needles must be strong and elastic. They are made from high quality steel.

Needle device. A machine needle consists of three main parts: a bulb, a blade and a point (Fig. 32).

Flask cylindrical has a bald spot. The blade is also cylindrical in shape, but of a smaller diameter so that the needle can more easily pass through the puncture made in the tissue with the tip. The blade has two grooves - long and short. The grooves protect the thread from rubbing against the fabric.

On the long groove side, the thread runs along the entire length of the needle blade. On the other hand, the thread touches the needle only in that part that enters the fabric: a short groove is made to this length.

The sharp end of the needle - the point - is its working part. It serves to pierce fabric and has an eyelet for threading.

Needle selection. To get a good machine stitch, it is very important to choose the right needle.

Machine needles are distinguished by numbers - from 75 to 150. The number is placed on the needle bulb. The higher the number, the thicker the needle. Needles are selected depending on the thickness of the threads, the number of which, in turn, depends on the type of fabric being sewn (Table 21).

When choosing a needle, you need to pay attention to its quality. The needle blade must be straight, the point well sharpened, the grooves and eyes must be smooth and well polished, since roughness and scratches reduce the strength of the thread and cause it to break.

Quests

1. Examine the machine needle. Find the parts on it indicated in Figure 32. Compare the design of a machine needle with a manual one. Answer the questions: 1) what is the purpose of a machine needle? 2) Which part of the needle is working and what work does it do? 3) Why is the eye in a machine needle located in its sharp end, and not blunt, like a hand needle?

2. Using the table, select a needle and thread for sewing items made of chintz and satin and answer the questions: 1) what determines the selection of a machine needle?

2) How to determine the quality of a needle?

Installing the machine needle (Fig. 33)

Exercises

1. Raise the needle bar to the upper position.

2. Loosen the needle clamp screw.

3. Insert the needle through the needle holder into the needle bar until it stops.

The long groove of the needle must be on the side of the thread guide!

4. Secure the needle clamp screw.

5. Check whether the needle fits freely into the hole of the needle plate and does not touch the shuttle device. To do this, you need to lower and raise the needle.

The upper thread is threaded into the eye of the needle from the side of the thread guide located on the needle holder!

7. Check the quality of the stitching.

Needle installation has great value. The normal operation of the machine depends on the quality of the needle and its correct installation (Table 22).

Questions

1. How to install the machine needle correctly?

2. What is the name of the machine part into which the needle is inserted?

3. In which direction should the long groove point when installing the needle?

4. Which side is the needle threaded from?

5. What problems in the operation of a sewing machine can be caused by improper installation of the needle or its defects?

Sewing by machine

Exercises

1. Take a fabric measuring 30 x 40 cm, fold it in half with the wrong side inward and sweep it (Fig. 34, a).

2. Draw lines every 3 cm parallel to the tissue sections.

3. Sew the fabric along the marked lines and remove the running stitches (Fig. 34, b).

Follow the rules for operating the machine!

4. Check the quality of the resulting stitch: correctness and evenness of the stitching.

Use the resulting fabric sample to make mittens for holding hot dishes.

Practical work

Making a mitten

Work progress

1. Place the mitten pattern on the prepared fabric and trace its contours (Fig. 35, a). You can make the pattern yourself: trace the outline of the hand and cut it out with a seam allowance of 1 cm (Fig. 35.6).

2. Cut out the mitten, fold the parts and sweep them at a distance of 1 cm from the cuts.

3. Sew the mitten (Fig. 35, c), remove the running stitches, and process the edges with loop stitches.

4. Make a thread loop (Fig. 36).

5. Check the quality of the work performed: stitch quality, quality handmade(making loop stitches and making eyelets).

Winder

To wind thread onto a bobbin, the sewing machine has a device: winder and tensioner . The winder is attached to the right side of the sleeve, near the flywheel, and the tensioner is attached to the machine platform (Fig. 37).

The winder (Fig. 38) is a metal rod-spindle 5 with a sleeve put on it. At the right end of the spindle there is a pulley 7, on the rim of which there is a rubber wheel 6, and at the left end there is a pin 4. The spindle is connected to the machine arm using a lever 8. To secure the spindle in the desired position, there is a latch 9. For smooth winding of threads, the latch is equipped tongue 1.

The tensioning device consists of two tension washers mounted on a platform and a spool rod.

Exercise

Examine the pattern of the winder and find the parts marked on it on the sewing machine.

Exercise. Winding thread onto a bobbin

1. Put the car in free motion.

2. Place the spool on the spool pin located on the machine platform (see Fig. 37) and pull the thread between the tensioner washers.

3. Hand wind several turns of thread onto the bobbin.

4. Place the bobbin on the winder spindle so that the spindle pin fits into the bobbin groove (see Fig. 38, 3 - 4). The bobbin is thus secured to the spindle and will not turn during winding. The thread from the bobbin should run towards the worker.

5. Press the rubber wheel against the rim of the flywheel, pressing the lever bushing so that the latch tongue fits between the walls of the bobbin. Thus, the rubber wheel will come into close contact with the rim of the flywheel and the winder will start working.

6. Move the flywheel. Wind the thread onto the bobbin until the latch tongue bounces off the bobbin. When winding, the thread should lie tightly, in even rows, otherwise it will get tangled and torn during sewing.

7. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin from the spindle.

Remember the words: winder, tensioner, winder spindle, pin, sleeve, latch.

Questions

1. Tell us about the sequence of winding thread on a bobbin.

2. Why, when putting a bobbin on the winder spindle, do they insert the spindle pin into the bobbin groove?

3. What role does the latch tongue play when winding thread on a bobbin?

4. Why is a rubber wheel put on the winder pulley?

5. How should the thread lie when winding it on the bobbin?

Linen seams

Linen items are stitched so that the fabric sections are inside the seam. This connecting seams: double and closed. They are called linen seams(Table 23).

Practical work

Making samples of linen seams

Equipment: work box, four pieces of fabric measuring 10 x 10 cm.

Making a double seam sample

Work progress

1. Prepare a sample: fold two pieces of fabric with the wrong side inward, pin and baste.

2. Stitch the parts (Fig. 39, a). Remove the running stitches and, spreading the seam allowance on both sides, iron it. Turn the sample inside out, straighten the seam and sweep (see Fig. 39, b).

3. Sew the parts, remove the running stitches, iron the finished seam. Trim sections of the sample using scissors in a zigzag pattern or sweep (see Fig. 39, c).

Making a sample of a sewing seam

Work progress

1. Prepare the sample: fold and pin two pieces of fabric right sides inward so that the lower part protrudes by 0.7 cm (Fig. 40, a).

2. Go around the cut of the upper part with the lower part, sweep and stitch the parts (Fig. 40, b).

3. Remove the running stitches, fold the seam towards the top piece and baste. Stitch the seam (Fig. 40, c).

4. Remove running stitches, iron the finished seam, trim sections of the sample with zigzag scissors or overcast (Fig. 40, d).

Sample design. Attach the samples to the album and make sketches of the seams.

Devices used when working on a sewing machine

When working on a sewing machine, great help is provided various devices small-scale mechanization (Fig. 41). They help improve the quality of processed products, make work easier and increase productivity. Working with devices does not require preliminary basting of the parts to be sewn.

By using sewing paws(Fig. 41, a) you can make a hem seam, and with the help of a chopper foot (Fig. 41.6) you can make a hem seam with a closed cut (hem). For seams different widths Use claws of certain sizes.

When making a double seam, you can use a limiting ruler - the seam will be more even.

Remember the words: linen seams, double seam, hemming seam, hemming foot, cutter foot.

Questions

1. How do tools help with sewing?

2. How many steps are required to complete a closed seam using a sewing foot?

3. How do you make seams of different widths using a chopper foot?

4. What kind of seams can be made using a limit ruler?

Machine parts connections

Movable and fixed connections of parts. Connections of machine parts can be movable or fixed. Movable called connections in which some parts can move relative to others. motionless These are connections in which parts cannot move relative to each other.

In a sewing machine, an example of a movable connection is the connection of the foot drive starting wheel with the axis (Fig. 42, a), and a fixed connection is the connection of the winder pulley with the spindle (Fig. 42, b).

Detachable and permanent connections of parts. Movable and fixed connections can be detachable or permanent. Detachable connections can be repeatedly disassembled and reassembled without destroying parts. At permanent connection You cannot separate the parts without damaging the connection or one of the parts.

Examples of such connections in a sewing machine are the connections shown in Table 24.

Remember the words: movable and fixed connections, detachable and permanent connections.

Quests

1. Review Table 24 and find the indicated connections on the sewing machine.

2. Determine the types of connections of the parts shown in the figure (Fig. 43).

Questions and tasks for reviewing the topic “Sewing on a sewing machine”

1. Name the parts of the foot drive of a sewing machine in the sequence of transmission of movement from the pedal to the flywheel.

2. Tell us about the sanitary and hygienic requirements when working on a foot-powered sewing machine.

3. What safety regulations warn you to be careful when handling a sewing machine drive belt?

4. What is the purpose of the needle grooves and why are they different lengths?

5. How to select and install the machine needle correctly?

6. How does the winder work?

7. What connecting seams do you know?

8. What linen seams do you know and what are their features?

9. What devices are used when making linen seams?

10. Fill out the table:

A foot-driven hydraulic pump is equipment whose operating principle is to convert mechanical energy into hydraulic energy. It is used in the work of masters of service stations and car services.

The advantages of a foot-driven hydraulic pump include:

• simple design - the hydraulic pump is easy to use;
• ease of use - thanks to the foot drive, the master’s hands remain free to perform other operations;
• durability - a reliable device will work for a long time.

To choose a suitable hydraulic pump with a foot drive, when purchasing, consider the main characteristics of the equipment: dimensions, number of speeds, working pressure, oil volume.

Types of foot driven hydraulic pumps

TD SOROKIN offers to buy a hydraulic pump with a foot drive. The range includes models:

• two-speed 0.6, 0.7 and 1.4 l;
• With different locations valve - from above or from the side.

All equipment meets high standards quality. Reliable components are used for its production, which ensures a long working life. All hydraulic pump models are covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Detailed information For information about devices, see product pages.

An original solution would be to assemble a lathe with a foot drive. This device is extremely simple to use, easy to maintain and does not consume electricity. In terms of functionality, this device is not inferior to modern machines.

In this article we will tell you how to make a foot-operated lathe with your own hands.

The mechanism is based on a crankshaft and a pedal. On the crankshaft itself there is a flywheel, which is responsible for the uniform and smooth movement of the workpiece being processed.

As a flywheel, you should choose a heavy circle made of wood(or a circle made of another material). The main thing in a flywheel is the correct geometric shape and high inertia.

From the flywheel torque is transmitted via a belt drive. Rotation is transmitted to the headstock drum.

The strength of the structure is provided by vertical and horizontal ligaments. The crankshaft is best made from a metal rod.

The workpiece to be processed must have a round cross-section. Otherwise, there is a chance of injury to the machine operator.

When manufacturing such a machine, it is necessary to comply with all safety requirements: work in personal protective equipment.

Before operating a similar lathe make sure that all parts are fastened efficiently and securely.

We hope that this article will be useful to you, dear readers. Thank you for your attention.

Nowadays, a foot-operated sewing machine is an attribute of the last century. It is no longer possible to buy a new foot-operated sewing machine in a store, unless it’s a used one based on an ad. However, many people still have foot drive options from brands such as Podolsk and Singer sewing machines.
Not only ancient cars from the century before last have a foot drive. Such a drive is sometimes found in the “cabinet” model of the Chaika or Podolsk 142 sewing machine, Veritas sewing machine and others. Despite the fact that they were inherited from grandmothers, they are still successfully used to this day. And this is often justified, since these machines are superior in reliability to many models of modern household sewing machines. And the Veritas sewing machine (GDR) also has a rotating shuttle and the quality of its stitching is almost impeccable.

There is a category of antique lovers who use antique foot-powered sewing machines as a design element for their home furnishings. retro style. In any case, it is necessary that the foot-operated sewing machine is in good working order.
Since the instructions for installing and repairing a foot drive are usually lost long ago, we offer you some simple recommendations of our own. In them you will learn how to adjust and repair the foot drive with your own hands.

1. Screws - foot drive bushings have lock nuts

The drive mechanism of a foot-operated machine seems complicated only at first glance. If you disassemble the drive, you will see that all the fastenings of the rubbing units are adjusted with cone-shaped screws, and they are tightened with a regular screwdriver. To ensure that the bushings do not get unscrewed arbitrarily during operation of the foot drive, an additional lock nut is placed on them. The locknut is tightened and loosened with an open-end wrench.

Begin repairing the foot drive by unscrewing these screws completely one at a time, first loosening the lock nut with an open-end wrench. True, it is sometimes quite difficult to weaken it. Over the years, oil and dust have caused them to become “stuck” to the frame so that they cannot be unscrewed without an Allen key.

2. Foot sewing machine. Adjusting knots

After all the screws (one by one) are lubricated, the gaps of the foot drive attachment points should be adjusted. The tighter the cone is clamped, the less knocking the foot drive will make. They cannot be fully (all the way) tightened. Excessive tightening is the reason for the drive to move slowly, but you also can’t loosen it too much, otherwise the drive will knock during operation. By the way, a foot-operated machine often knocks for another reason, but more on that below.
To accurately adjust the tightening of the screws, you must first fully tighten the screws on both sides (within reasonable limits) and then loosen them half a turn or a little more.

After the repairs have been made and all fastening points have been adjusted, check how the foot drive works together with the machine. If the noise has noticeably decreased, it means that you will not have to disassemble another unit, which is located in the center of the flywheel, on which the belt fits. This is the only foot drive joint that has a bearing and this bearing serves as the axis of rotation of the flywheel.

This unit can be disassembled quite simply, you just need to be prepared for the fact that balls, or rather the remains of the bearing, will fall out of it. If the bearing remains intact and undamaged, then it is better not to remove it at all, just lubricate it generously with thick grease and adjust the gap. Set the gap so that the wheel is barely noticeable, but “dangles”, otherwise a tight ride will appear and after a few minutes your legs will get tired, like after a workout. Again, do some foot-operated work with the machine. If the drive is difficult to rotate, slightly loosen the wheel securing screw.
Ideally, a foot-operated machine should not make metallic knocks or rattle during operation. The noise should only come from the working parts of the sewing machine itself, nothing more.

4. Repair the foot drive if there is no new bearing

When foot drive adjusted correctly, working on the machine is a pleasure, like good asphalt for a cyclist. Unfortunately, most often this requires replacing the bearing, and there is nowhere to get it, since there is nowhere to buy it. If you really need the foot drive to be in perfect condition, then it’s easier to buy the same old, but working foot-operated machine.

You can restore the operation of this node yourself, but only in a primitive way. For example, you can wrap this knot generously with threads, lubricating them with grease, or make and install a nylon bushing. The choice depends on your imagination and capabilities; it is only important that the wheel rotates without effort and distortion. It is clear that wound threads are a travesty of repairs and will not last long, but as a temporary solution, sewing on something is quite suitable.

To prevent the foot-operated machine from wobbling, check the fastening of the screws connecting the parts of the frame. The frame fastening screws are tightened with a powerful large screwdriver, which any motorist has in their kit, as well as a hex wrench for the locknuts.

5. The foot drive belt is made of rawhide leather

One of the components of the foot drive is the drive belt. Due to age and constant use, it breaks at the junction. The torn section is cut off, shortening the belt slightly, and reconnected. In the end, the belt is simply not long enough and needs to be replaced.

There are a lot of options for “Kulibinsk” solutions for replacing a belt. From a clothesline to an old one cut into strips leather belt. The last option is closest to the truth, because the belt for the foot drive is made from special rawhide.

You can replace a belt only with a belt and nothing more. Fortunately, it can be purchased at sewing supply stores, including sundry markets. True, it is not cheap; sometimes it is more profitable to buy a used electric drive for a sewing machine and install it instead of a belt.

It is best to connect a torn belt with a regular paper clip. Unbend the paper clip completely and make punctures with an awl along the edge of the belt at a distance of 0.5-0.8 mm. Insert a paper clip into the holes and connect the ends of the wire using one of the following methods. You can “bite off” the excess sections and bend them towards each other, or you can simply twist them with pliers, and then press the twist to the belt.

Foot-powered sewing machines are at least several decades old. Of course, during this time the machine could have many malfunctions. There is no compensation spring in the tensioner, many fastenings have loosened, and a knocking noise has appeared. The needle bar is often moved upward, and therefore there are gaps in the stitching. The bobbin case plate is faulty, the foot drive is faulty, etc. There are many articles on our website that will help you in such cases.

The easiest way to “repair” a foot drive is to install an electric drive on the machine. Almost all cars have threaded connection for mounting a hand drive, which can be used to mount an electric motor. True, the diameter of the fastening screw does not always fit.

Podolsk machines that make one single line will probably be in use for many years to come. These simple and obsolete sewing machines have one unique quality - reliability. There is simply nothing that can break in such a machine, unless the foot drive fails and it rattles the whole house. All parts of the PMZ, Singer sewing machine are made of metal and they can withstand any load, not in comparison with modern “seamstresses” costing several thousand rubles.

The Chaika sewing machine sometimes also has a foot drive; this is the so-called “cabinet” Chaika model. She has a beautiful polished table with a hinged lid. In such a table there is a lot of space to make several shelves instead of a foot drive, and to buy an electric drive for the machine. Almost any electric drive complete with mount is suitable for this machine. Installing it is not difficult at all; it is screwed on with just one screw.

Foot drive and hand drive are the most weak points these old cars. Usually they are the ones who cause the most trouble. Both the manual and foot drives can be repaired yourself if you read these articles on our website.