Updated 09/24/2017

Hobs that have now successfully entered the kitchens of hostesses may have different surface. They are made of aluminum, stainless steel, glass-ceramic or coated with enamel. Each of the coatings has its pros and, unfortunately, cons. For example, strength.

If stainless steel and aluminum surfaces are not afraid of sharp mechanical impacts, then for enamel and glass-ceramics, shocks are weakness, breaking this type of hobs is as easy as shelling pears.

Causes of chips on the hob, can they be eliminated and how?

The reason for the chips on the enamel can be one - a sharp, strong impact on the coating of heavy or sharp objects. For example, a knife or a screwdriver fell from a shelf, a sugar bowl fell out of your hands, a plate caused damage with an edge - the enamel will break off. A chip on the enamel surface will not affect the quality of work hob, however, the aesthetic appearance will be lost.

To bring the panel back to its previous state, experienced owners advise using special aerosol enamels. Unfortunately, the shelves of hardware stores do not yet indulge in an abundance of high-quality enamels for repairing such a surface, there are such aerosols, after which the damage site turns black or simply clearly stands out. But the German developers have already been able to come to the rescue, and their enamels allow you to tidy up the hob perfectly.

If the enameled surface, with minor chips or cracks, loses only its attractiveness, then the glass-ceramic hob may lose safety during operation, or even fail completely (given the place where the damage is caused).

There can be several reasons for the damage:

• point strikes– falling sharp objects such as a knife, screwdriver, bottle opener or other utensils or kitchen utensils, will certainly leave their mark on a smooth surface.
• hitting with large objects also will not go unnoticed.
• grains of sand or other small, sharp objects - by themselves they may not cause much harm, but when they put the same pan on them, the surface may not withstand, chipping will occur.
• tearing off sticky dishes- it happens that a pot, pan or other utensil was placed on a sticky, uncleaned surface. Under the influence of heat, the dishes can stick so that they will have to be torn off along with a piece of glass ceramic.
• jam or sugar syrup- many users of glass ceramics complain that the escaped jam is removed from the surface, only leaving small chips. There is an opinion that sugar microparticles penetrate the glass ceramics by diffusion and when the sugar syrup is removed, spalls from the surface occur.

To avoid these troubles, you need to carefully read the instructions, it indicates what should be avoided in order for the glass-ceramic panel to serve for a long time and properly.

However, if the trouble has already occurred, there are three ways: change the entire surface, leave everything as it is, or fix the damage.

Changing and installing a built-in hob is the most reliable way, but also the most expensive. Not everyone has the opportunity to immediately buy a new one. Leaving everything as it is is fraught with serious troubles - the panel can be dangerous to use, after a chip, a crack will open after a while. Repairing damage is the most economical way. Now there are already many firms that can help in such trouble.

If you try to eliminate the chip on your own, then you need to find a material that would hold the glass ceramics, prevent cracks, do not deteriorate itself and do not spoil appearance the entire panel.

There is no material that would meet these requirements yet. But people have adapted to fix chips with heat-resistant sealant. Auto sealant (which is used to repair automotive glass) also helps.

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They are popular: they have heat indicators, are easy to use, and easy to care for. But often due to severe mechanical damage or due to prolonged heating, defects such as cracks and scratches occur. The amount of damage can be different - from an inconspicuous crack to cracks that occupy the entire surface area.

Crack in the hob

Such defects are dangerous, namely:

• lead to malfunction of the device;
• the incandescent temperature rises;
• the external data of the equipment is corrupted;
• faults can increase, which will lead to the complete destruction of the glass-ceramic layer;
• plate may miss electricity and hit the person.

Causes of damage to the hob

If faults were found on the hob, then this was preceded by the following factors:

• A sharp, strong touch to the surface of any objects. For example, you can drop a heavy pot, which is a common cause of glass ceramic breakage. The fault will look like a hole in the center where the blow fell, and the branching of the cracks.
• The stove got very hot due to the long operation of several burners that were working at full power. Usually the defect appears with a crash and can spread in different directions.
• It happens when the stove was not installed correctly, and the powerful voltage supplied to the technique destroys the hob. The surface begins to crack from the central part, after which the defects diverge, having sharp corners.
• Point damage, such as a dropped knife.
• Tearing off dishes that have stuck. For example, a frying pan or pot has been placed on a sticky, uncleaned hob. When heated, the dishes are glued, and it is possible to tear them off only with a fragment of glass-ceramic.
• Escaped jam and sugar syrup are very difficult to remove from the stove. The heated sugar, upon contact with the surface, penetrates into the structure of the glass-ceramic material. When cleaning the plate, the surface is damaged, chips appear.

Important! The last two reasons are caused by manufacturing defects and non-compliance with the rules when assembling the model. Common cases are when the surface is mounted very close to the edges, and during the heating process it bursts.

It should be remembered that faulty equipment powered by electricity is dangerous for any use. There are some rules where safety must be observed:

• Any cooking on panels that have burst should be avoided;
• Means for cleaning cooking surfaces must be specially designed;
• It is not recommended to touch metal utensils with wet hands, there is a risk of electric shock;
• Do-it-yourself repairs can lead to a short circuit.

What should I do if there is such a breakdown as cracks and scratches?

To get rid of such troubles as a large chip or crack, it will be more reliable to replace the hob with a new one. Leaving everything as it is is also an unsuitable option, because the integrity of the equipment is violated, and the chip can turn into a big break. Gluing the panel with your own hands is the most economical way. To do this, you need a material that will hold the strength of glass ceramics and will not allow cracks to spread further, will withstand high temperatures.

Step-by-step guide: how to self-glue a hob that has a crack or chip.

Tools and materials:

• silicate adhesive.
• Silicone.
• Rectangular pieces of glass, approximately 4x9 cm.
• Epoxy resin.
• Rubber spatula.
• Aluminum plate, the size is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the crack.

Work order:

Aluminum plate located under the chip

How to remove scratches from the surface of the plate

Appliances with a glass hob require special care. If you do not follow the rules for using the device, scratches may occur on the plate.

You can remove scratches from a plane in the following ways:

If more serious defects occur, it is better to contact a qualified craftsman. It is recommended to check the warranty period, if it has not expired yet, take a picture of the damage and call the service center:

1. You will need to call a home repair specialist to inspect and make a conclusion whether the surface can be restored.
2. If the warranty period has not yet expired, the surface must be taken for an examination, which will determine the cause of the destructive effect.
3. If the marriage turned out to be factory, the manufacturer is obliged to replace the glass-ceramic element or the entire stove.
4. When the warranty is no longer valid, you should visit a service center or repair shop.

11 consequences of renovation in your apartment:
1. You wipe your feet not before entering the apartment, but before leaving it.
2. White cockroaches have appeared in your house.
3. Your cat switched from valerian to drying oil.
4. You flip the patties with a spatula.
5. Having entered the toilet, you forget the original purpose of the visit and begin to closely examine the connection of the toilet bowl and check for gaps between the tiles.
6. You stroke your loved one with sweeping up and down strokes.
7. In turn, your beloved substitutes a stepladder instead of a cheek for you.
8. Wherever you are, the smell of paint follows you everywhere.
9. Finally, you are happy that you have a small apartment.
10. The flowers you give to your loved one smell strongly of acetone.
11. Before you cook spaghetti, you call them, try to strip the insulation and make a twist

Installing the hob in the countertop

In this final article in the cooktop and hob installation series, I will look at aspects related to the countertop, as well as preparing the countertop and hob for installation.

Of course, the most simple option- at the stage of ordering a kitchen for a small amount, make a hole for the hob by the company, but for this you need to know the dimensions of your equipment. Therefore, it does not always make sense to immediately order a hole in the countertop. A little advice! Don't make holes until you buy a cooktop. Always make a hole only according to the available equipment!

Cooktop dimensions

Although there are certain sizes, there are certain tolerances. Let's start with the fact that the minimum width of the hob is 30 cm. The maximum width can be more than one meter. It already depends on the manufacturer's imagination and the location of the burners (for example, not in the form of a square or some other combination, but in one row). However, standard length and the width of the four-burner panel is 60x51 cm. But these are the dimensions of the upper part of the panel. The landing hole itself can vary from 57 to 59 cm in length and from 47 to 49 cm in width. The exact size of the mounting hole can always be found in the instruction manual. The maximum error tolerance is also indicated there. Most often, it is allowed to make a hole larger by 1 cm in length and width. But at the same time, keep in mind that if the hob is not attracted to the countertop, then it can crawl due to the large size of the hole. There are panels (for example, Bosh), in which the fastening mechanism is generally tricky.

Tolerances with this method of fastening are more critical and allow no more than 3 mm on each side. Therefore, before making a hole in the countertop, carefully read the instruction manual.

I see no reason to rewrite here a selection of tips from the instruction manual. But I will briefly go over the most common points that apply to each hob.

Installing the hob in the countertop - sealant.

As a rule, it comes with a panel. If it was not there, then theoretically any thin door or window seal can be used. Thin due to the fact that, on the one hand, the gap between the panel and the tabletop should be minimal so that dirt does not clog into this gap, on the other hand, ensure a snug fit so that water does not leak inside, under the panel. Never use double-sided tape or sealant, in general, anything that can stick the hob to the countertop. In theory, the panel should work for a long time, in practice, various incidents happen and the panel has to be removed. Removing the glued panel without breaking it is a very difficult task. And re-installation will cause difficulties, because it will be necessary to remove the old "glue".

Installing the hob in the countertop - how to cut a hole for the hob

The first step is to make a markup with a minimum tolerance. It is very important to observe a right angle. I usually use the hob itself for this purpose. That is, I draw one line from the near or far edge. I put down the required dimensions on it, apply the panel along this line and draw two side lines. In order not to scratch the panel, I put some fabric under it. The lines will be strictly perpendicular, then I measure the desired value on the two resulting side lines and finish the rectangle. It is very important to pay attention to the fact that you do not fall into side walls under the tabletop when marking the hole . Further, to whom it is more convenient, with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw hole is cut.
To start cutting, you need to drill a hole for entry hacksaw blade. This should be done on the inside of the countertop. The one you will cut. The photo clearly shows how this is done. Of course, it is more convenient to make a cutout with a jigsaw. Hole in marble countertops or artificial stone it is advisable to entrust the experts. However, you need to remember that the jigsaw platform is metal and can scratch the surface when performing work. To avoid this, you can use
masking tape. Its convenience is that it adheres well to the surface, but does not stick as much as regular tape. You can glue both directly to the marking line, and slightly stepping back from it. The main thing is that the area that extends beyond the hob, but can get under the metal pad of the jigsaw, is sealed.

Installing the hob in the countertop - using silicone

Cut the hole for the hob (and, in principle, for anything in kitchen worktop) must be treated with a sealant. There is absolutely no difference what color the sealant will be. In this operation, the most important thing is how to seal the cut so that moisture does not get into it. Although the countertops are made of moisture-resistant material, they still swell when moisture gets inside. Only the cut itself needs to be sealed. It remains to wait a while (from three hours) for the sealant to dry and you can install the surface.

This can be the end of the article. If I remember something, I'll add it. Any questions ask in the comments. Most important points I'll move it to the article.

WITH Best wishes, I AM!

Updated 09/24/2017

Today glass-ceramic stoves began to replace the usual ones due to many advantages: ease of cleaning, indication of the heat of the tile, power. There are practically no problems with them, however, with strong impacts or excessive heat exposure, cracks may appear on them.

And if someone else is lucky, and they only have a small crack in the corner of the surface, for others, the defect can cover the entire cooking zone.

Why are such cracks dangerous?

• They can lead to a general failure of work;
• Pass excess heat;
• Spoil the appearance of the plate;
• Can crack even more, leading to the complete destruction of the glass;
• Contact with the stove may result in electric shock.

Why did the hob crack?

So, you found an ugly fault on the surface of the plate. Where could he come from?

Do not forget that the second two reasons are most likely caused by a factory defect or improper assembly of the plate. It happens that the surface is placed close to the edges of the plate, and when it expands, it begins to burst.

Be that as it may, you do not need to leave everything as it is and continue to use the stove carefree. First of all, follow the safety rules:

• Avoid cooking on panels that are cracked;
• Use the right hob cleaners;
• Do not touch metal pans with wet hands to avoid electric shock;
• Do not act on the crack yourself;
• Do not attempt to make repairs yourself.

If you have such a defect, you must definitely call the master. If the stove has not yet expired warranty period, then you are relatively lucky, and all is not lost. Take a photo of the crack (just in case), and contact the service center for help:

1. Call the master at home - he will be able to inspect and decide whether the surface is repairable. By the way, for this you may need a photo - some experts prefer not to believe in words just like that;
2. If the warranty has not yet expired, the surface may be taken for examination to determine the cause of the breakdown;
3. If a factory defect or other reasons beyond your control are found, you will either change the glass-ceramic, or even replace the stove with a new one (perhaps with a small additional payment);
4. Has the warranty period expired? You can contact not the corporate center, but private companies involved in the repair of equipment. Their masters will also help identify the source of the defect and get rid of it.

But be prepared for the fact that if the crack appeared due to an impact (i.e. through your fault), you will have to fork out either for repairs or for new model. It all depends on the specific case. And one more piece of advice: be careful with the technique - safety rules are above all!

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Hello everyone.

I decided to write about it, because this happens to many, but there are either no solutions on the Internet, or I did not find it.

I will say right away that the most correct thing would be to change the glass or surface assembly, but if such a solution does not work for some of you (like me), then this post is for you.
It is most likely impossible to give the surface its original state and mask the crack, but it is quite possible to "leave" it in the ranks.

I have a top Bosch induction model with infrared sensors temperature control, so I really wanted to keep this particular panel (especially now they are no longer on sale). The dealer asked for 25 thousand for the glass, which is somewhat ... a little expensive. For this money you can buy a full panel. So I decided to try to glue.

Some information about glass ceramics: it is not glass, or rather not ordinary silicate glass, but quartz glass. And the properties of quartz glass are different. For example, it can be locally heated to high temperatures and immediately cooled (even tempered glass burst), and even glass ceramics can be processed.
From this follows the method of soldering quartz glass. For example, crushed silicate (ordinary) glass. Since quartz can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees, and silicate melts already at 600 degrees. It didn’t work out for me, because when the crack is dry filled, the burner flame simply blows out the crushed glass, and when using a liquid base, I used silicate glue, then the silicate glue simply boiled from the flame, foamed along with crushed glass and again, soldering did not work.
I gave you the info - whoever wants, go for it.

Adhesives with satisfactory adhesion to glass:
1) Cyanoacrylate (superglue). will not suit us in any way, since the maximum temperature of use is 80 degrees
2) Epoxy resin. can be used except for heating zones. temperature up to 280 degrees, but when heated, releases toxic substances
3) Silicate glue (stationery, liquid glass)... well-known glue since childhood. Almost perfect for our needs! and we will use it
4) Silicone sealant- temperature up to 200 degrees. there are heat-resistant options with temperatures up to 300 degrees, but they are only brown

I will say right away that I used all three suitable options.

I started with silicate glue. The initial result pleased me, but ... the seam did not stand the load test. As a result, I did this: first I used silicate glue along the entire length of the crack, then I strengthened the rigidity in three places (where there are no burner zones) by gluing pieces of ordinary glass onto the silicone, and then I restored the missing fragment epoxy resin, just pouring it there (accompanying gluing more small playground aluminum, as there was a web of cracks in this place).
I have been using it for almost a week: everything is ok, except for the aesthetics. In parallel, I'm looking through Avito in the hope of finding a similar (similar) panel.