IN panel houses Three-key switches with a socket are widely used. They stand in the hallway and control the light in three rooms - the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The socket here is provided for different household needs, for example, to turn on a vacuum cleaner, razor, hair dryer, etc. A lot of time has passed since they were installed and today they require replacement. Buying such three-key switches with a socket is not difficult, but not everyone can figure out its connection diagram. In this article, I analyze in detail the connection diagram for a three-key switch with a socket, with which you can do everything yourself.

Before starting all work, be sure to turn off the power to the apartment or this line. Safety comes first.

When dismantling the old unit, remember, or better yet, label all the wires that you will disconnect. This will allow you to quickly figure out which wire goes where. In a nutshell about wires - the meaning here is this:

• one two-wire wire comes from the distribution box to the switch block and is connected to the socket contacts;
• from this socket, from the “phase” contact, there is a jumper to the common contact of the switch block (this is the only black wire in the figure below);
• Three phase conductors go from other contacts of the switch block to the lamps.

I think these explanations are not enough, so I drew a diagram for connecting a three-key switch with a socket, where I described everything in detail. Here you pay attention to the drawn lines and don’t pay too much attention to the bunch of wires in the block, since this is an amateur project and the owners of the apartment have powered another outlet. See below...

In the photo above, a plastic box from a new three-key switch with a socket is already mounted into the wall. It fits exactly into the groove made from the old switch. It can be placed on plaster, or it can be attached with dowels. Here the choice is yours.

Here is a photo below without my art. This unit is located in the apartment of a retired family. The wiring here is old and they under no circumstances wanted to change it. Some of the wires were broken and they were extended through single terminal blocks. Next we see a yellow-green wire - this is the “neutral” conductor going to the socket mounted in the kitchen (this is an amateur activity of some electrician).

Below, the switches themselves are already in place. In fact, they do not need to be removed, since there is still access to the contact bolts.

I took them off just for fun...

Now we put the body in place. It is secured with three bolts.

We put the side key...

Now another side key...

On final stage put the middle key. That's all, the three-key switch with socket is ready for use. In order to disassemble it and get to the contacts, you need to perform the steps in the reverse order described here.

If these explanations are not enough for you, then read new material supplementing this article: Addition to the article "Connection diagram for a three-key switch with a socket". Here I am considering two different schemes connection of such a block and provide detailed explanations.

Let's smile:

Physics teacher - Vovochka:
- What happens if you insert a magnet into a coil and take it out again?
- Occurs in the circuit induced current.
- Right! What if it takes a long time?
- An electrician may be born.

Conducting renovation work in the bathroom, many people pay great attention to the choice ceramic tiles, plumbing and design elements. Bathroom switches, sockets and other electrical wiring are often left without proper attention. This is a common mistake, since the bathroom is considered a room with an increased risk for electrical appliances and human health.

Requirements for electrical wiring in the bathroom

The bathroom, especially if it is combined with a toilet, is a zone increased risk and hazards to electrical appliances. The bathroom switch is subject to strict requirements, since this room simultaneously contains such risk factors as:

• high voltage in the network;
• increased humidity levels;
• sudden temperature changes.

Important! You should always remember that moisture is the best conductor electric current, therefore, installing a switch in the bathroom is a responsible undertaking that requires compliance with all safety regulations.

Electrical wiring should be carried out after installing plumbing according to a pre-drawn plan. The best option is the placement of electrical points in special boxes that are walled into the wall. The cables are also embedded in the wall using corrugated channels, which allow you to replace the wiring if necessary without dismantling the decorative covering.

Advice! Before connecting a switch in the bathroom, we recommend that you listen to the advice of experts. They unanimously advise moving the switch outside the bathroom and connecting it into one unit with the switch for the toilet and kitchen, since in most apartments, the bathroom and kitchen are located next to each other.

Residual current device

Installation rules and wiring arrangements require that all electrical appliances, sockets and lamps were connected to the general network through a residual current device or RCD. If water enters a switch, outlet, or other electrical equipment, the RCD senses the loss of voltage and instantly causes automatic switching on light in the bathroom. This is done so that electrical appliances, as a result of getting wet, do not harm a person with an electric shock.

Many people mistakenly believe that an emergency shutdown circuit breaker and an RCD are the same device. But this is far from true. A circuit breaker, which is popularly called a “machine” or “packet,” is designed to protect devices from short circuits. If the switch for the bathroom and toilet is connected through such a circuit breaker, then in the event of a short circuit, overheating or power surge, it automatically opens the circuit, preventing the electrical wiring from catching fire.

The RCD is designed to catch voltage leakage. In other words, it monitors the voltage in the phase and neutral wires in real time. If the switch between the bathroom and the toilet begins to lose voltage as a result of moisture, the device will turn off the network.

Advice! There are special differential circuit breakers on sale that combine the functions of protection against power surges and short circuits and at the same time act as an RCD. This the best remedy protection against accidental electric shock due to moisture on the conductors of electrical appliances.

Rules for choosing bathroom switches

If you don't have it installed general switch bath-toilet-kitchen, and a separate switch is used in the bathroom, then such a device must have a special degree of protection, which is indicated by the “IP” marking. The IP marking range can be from IP-00 (unprotected from moisture) and IP-68 (maximum protection from moisture). In such designations, the first digit indicates the degree of protection against small dust particles, the second digit indicates the degree of protection against moisture.

If you have a bath-toilet-kitchen switch block installed outside the bathroom, then you can use switches with a degree of IP-00; if the device is installed directly indoors or outdoors, then the degree of protection should be as high as possible.

Important! Please note that bathroom switches must have covers that cover the contact holes from direct hit liquids. The product must also have rubber seals at the cable entry points.

Hot summer greetings from Taganrog to everyone!

In my new article, we will look at the issues of replacing an old-style double-switch socket block, which was previously installed in all Khrushchev-era panel houses. The replacement will be carried out with a new switch block with a socket under one frame.

As usual, there will be a lot of photos, a connection diagram, recommendations for installing and connecting this device.

What this miracle of Soviet design and technology looks like is shown in the photo on the left.

Such a block consists of one socket (without grounding, of course) and two or three switch keys. Switches turn on the lights in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen.

In principle, the idea is not bad, but over time it all becomes unusable, because these switches are used in the apartment much more often than all the others combined.

Connection diagram for switches with sockets in one block

The scheme is generally simple, but I will give it below.

Subscribe! It will be interesting.

The following wires come into the unit being replaced: phase, zero, and two wires “go” to power the bathroom and toilet lamps. The phase is used to power sockets and switches. Zero – only for the socket.

Connection diagram for switches with socket

Strictly speaking, when installing electrical wiring, lighting groups are usually separated. That is, different power wires should go to switches and sockets, and they should be turned off differently in the electrical panel. But they did this before, out of poverty.

Dismantling the old block

Almost every day we come across the concept of “Kick-Ass”. Another kicker - at the end of the article.

So, we remove the cover, we see:

What do we see? Everything is loose and rickety, the two upper switches are in a completely dead state, the third is not connected, and according to the owner, it never worked. The socket is more or less compared to them, considering that in such a place it is almost never used.

The panel house is 40 years old. The lights in the kitchen and bathroom are turned on at least 10 times a day. 40x365x10=146 thousand times. We did a good job.

At this stage, we understand the wires, check where the phase is, and turn off the power. In this case, you must have a headlamp; you can’t do without it.

We take out the insides. The main thing is not to break the wires and notice where everything goes.

3. We take out all the insides - the old socket, switches, metal box

The bad ends that went to the switches had to be cut off - they were still short.

The two bottom wires go to the socket. On the left is zero, on the right is the phase, which in the old days electricians designated with black rag tape (there was no other tape, no markers).

It is worth saying that for some reason the antique metal installation box is attached as tightly as tin. It is fastened with some screws and nuts that must be turned. I have replaced such blocks more than once, and every time tearing out this box is torture. I use powerful pliers and a large flathead screwdriver.

4.No one will ever need this again. Thanks for your service!

Installing a new switch box with socket

Here's what's best to use in such cases:

Also, to install a block of socket and switch, you need a double frame, it was not included in the frame. On latest photos she will, I promise.

What's new in the VK group? SamElectric.ru ?

Subscribe and read the article further:

Switches and sockets in lately I use only Turkish ones, most often VI-KO. They are the best in price/quality, and are very easy to install. The photo shows the VIKO Carmen model, their design is a bit old. And finishers don’t like them because of their rounded shape. In this sense, VIKO Karre is better - they have modern design, and they are perfectly rectangular in shape.

Karre sockets – television and power under a triple frame. Photo from article

There are ready-made solid blocks just for such purposes, where a socket and a double switch are combined in one housing. Made in Belarus and Russia. Very inconvenient, bad, clumsy. I DO NOT RECOMMEND.

The box is specially designed for two installation places, one-piece. It is better to use it than two separate ones with a jumper.

We install the distribution box. You have to cut out part of the top side to minimize bending of the old aluminum.

At the bottom you have to trim a little so that the box is flush with the wall:

Next comes the longest, dirtiest and most unpleasant part. We work with alabaster or gypsum putty, use a spatula and preferably a level. After this, you can relax - smoke or (in my case) ask the hosts to pour some tea.

Now we use segments copper wire cross section 1.5 mm2 and which are a big help.

It is important that in order for this entire structure to stand for many years (up to), it must be electrically properly protected. Circuit breaker current in in this case should be no more than 16 A, and better - 13 or even 10 Ampere. Details about choosing a circuit breaker ( circuit breaker) I have already written more than once, .

We act from below.

9.Connect and install the socket first

I use double Vago terminals to extend the wires to the switch, quadruple terminals for phase distribution, I managed to screw the neutral onto the socket directly, the length allowed.

We fix the socket with self-tapping screws in the box. I already wrote, for those who haven’t read it, I highly recommend it. We don’t tighten it too much, but you can completely ignore the spacer lugs and even throw them away.

We install and connect the switch according to the connection diagram. We securely and evenly fix the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

10.The socket and switch are connected and installed. See the gap between the outlet and the double switch? It should be 0.5-1 mm wide and the same along the entire length.

The matter is nearing its end. A few deft moves...

11. We put on a double frame

And the installation of the socket block with switch is complete!

12. The socket and switch block are installed in the bathroom

That's basically all. If anything is not clear or you have something to add, ask and write in the comments. If you are interested in what I will publish next on the SamElectric blog, subscribe to receive new articles.

Update from April 26, 2014: Here’s another “kick-ass”: a switch for two rooms. This is an apartment in the old district of Taganrog, it doesn’t happen there (for example, there are two phases in the apartment, because between the phases there is 220V, not 380) - there was one room, now there are two. But the switch remains...

If you have any questions about how to connect the unit double switch with a socket - please contact us in the comments!

Switches are the main devices for controlling lighting. The most common is single, but if you need to control several lamps from one place, two- and three-key ones are used. The photo below shows a three-gang switch with a socket.

Three-gang switch with socket on the wall

Purpose

A triple or three-key switch is designed to switch three groups of lamps. This can be a combined method of lighting, where spot lighting is combined with central lighting, groups of lamps in multi-arm chandeliers, different levels plasterboard ceiling, turning on lights in the bathroom, corridor, toilet. Its advantages are as follows:

• saving electricity;
• compactness;
• beautiful appearance;
• control from one place several light sources in different rooms(in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen);
• the ability to regulate illumination by switching light sources where it is not possible to use dimmers;
• changing the lighting in the room if necessary.

Options for using multi-key switches:

• changing the lighting intensity of the chandelier;
• control of several lamps (table, pendant, wall);
• control of several lighting zones in one room (lamp, chandelier, backlight).

They also add a socket. The device in the form of a block becomes more functional.

Device selection

Since the choice is quite large, you can find a model that matches the interior of the room . The devices also differ functionally:

1. Regular switches.
2. Devices with an indicator that can turn on in the dark to indicate its location or indicate which key is on.
3. Pass-through switches. Installed in different places long corridors or passages, on stairs, different floors, etc. Through them you can control one or a group of lamps from different places.

The body of the product must be free of scratches, burrs, abrasions and other damage. The keys should be easy to switch with characteristic clicks, and the terminals should firmly fix the connected wires. Self-clamping terminals work reliably and are more convenient to use. Just insert the wire into the hole and it will be fixed. It is important to remove it correctly if necessary. To do this, the device has special latches that can be pressed out. If you pull the wire out of the hole, the connector may become damaged.

Connection

The connection diagram of the switch depends on its type. On back side device there is a diagram of its contacts. How they are connected to the lamps can be seen in the figure.

Three-key switch connection diagram

Power wires are supplied to the distribution box: blue zero (N) and brown phase (L). 3 wires from the light bulbs are connected to zero. The phase goes to the switch, where it is connected to terminal (L). From the switch contacts it spreads to the light bulbs, closing their circuits.

The switch is always inserted into the phase wire, not the neutral wire.

Despite the fact that the connection diagram is simple, the following technology for installing the switch must be observed:

1. De-energizing the electrical network by turning off the circuit breaker.
2. Dismantling the old switch: removing the buttons, removing the frame, loosening the clamping screws, removing the housing from the socket box, freeing the wires. On phase wire disconnected from the terminal (L), a mark is made. First, the voltage indicator checks for the presence of a phase on it, since the wires may be mixed up. To do this, voltage is temporarily applied. After touching the phase bare wire the indicator should light up. Then the power turns off again.
3. The new switch is connected according to the diagram shown on its reverse side. It shows the terminals for connecting the phase and the other three wires. The clamping screws are first unscrewed a little to allow free entry of wires.
4. The switch is mounted in the socket box. The block is fixed with clamping screws, after which the lining and keys are attached.
5. The correct operation of the device is checked by pressing the keys one by one.

In old-style apartments, two-key switches are installed to turn on lighting in the hallway, toilet, bathroom and kitchen (in different combinations). If there are not enough wires to install a triple block, you will have to lay them additionally.

Separate double and triple switches can be installed for the bathroom and kitchen large sizes, where there may be several lighting zones.

If a three-key switch with a socket is installed, its connection diagram differs slightly from the previous one. In Fig. Below are two different designs three-key switch (a – BVR3; b – BSU3), where electrical diagram identical (c). Power is supplied to the contact terminals (5) of the socket through a separate zero core and a phase connected using a jumper from the block.

Block diagram of a three-key switch with socket

Position 1 indicates the body, 2 – keys, 3 – screw, 4 – cover, 6 – switch contacts.

Connection features

A switch with several keys and a socket is usually installed in one place - near the doors of the bathroom and toilet. The unit makes it possible to control lighting and connect an electric razor, hair dryer and other appliances used in the bathroom.

Connection diagram of a two-key switch block with a socket to power and loads

There are 5 connections made in the junction box (Fig. above). There is also a green grounding wire introduced here, going only to the socket. A lamp with metal parts also requires protection against electric shock. For this purpose, a screw connection is installed on the metal housing.

With a variety of models of a triple switch with a socket, the connection diagram remains the same (Fig. below). The block is connected similarly to single or double models. The power cable is connected everywhere to the input of the device, and the wires go from the contacts of the switch block to the lamps that match the number of its keys.

Schematic diagram of a triple switch with socket

The socket has a separate neutral wire and according to the diagram it is not connected to the switch. They only have a common phase. All neutral wires from lamps and sockets are connected in the distribution box to the supply neutral. The phase is supplied to the common input contact of the switch. The contacts for the lighting sections are located on a separate block. From them, voltage is supplied to the light bulbs.

Before connecting, 10 mm of insulation is removed from the ends of the wires. To connect them, it is advisable to use NShVI lugs, which prevent the wire from breaking off when tightened with clamps.

The block is mounted in a wall niche using spacer legs or supports, after which a decorative frame is placed on top of it. The methods of attaching it can be very diverse.

Manufacturers

Many people choose triple switches for aesthetic reasons. If the room is decorated in an antique style, Fede models are suitable here. German Gira products have a sophisticated design and enjoy in great demand. Legrand models, horizontal or vertical, adapt well to the interior. Large selection switches provides ABB company. Products are produced with LED backlight, adding functionality to aesthetics.

Combined switches are manufactured by domestic manufacturer“Kuntsevo-Electro”. A block made of durable plastic is used for vertical installation in niches on the walls. The following models of triple switches with socket are available:

• BELLA BKVR-039 – with a socket without a grounding contact (Fig. a below);
• BELLA BKVR-212 – with red indicator light (Fig. b);
• BELLA BKVR-036 – with a European socket equipped with protective curtains (Fig. c).

Three-gang switches with socket

The switches have the following characteristics: voltage 220 V, rated load current 10 A. Models with a rated current of 16 A and with a grounding contact are produced by NPO Elektrotekhnika (models BZVRzk-S “REONE”, BZVRzksh-S “REONE”).

Installing a socket. Video

You can learn in detail about installing sockets and replacing the combined unit BKVR-039 from the video below.

A triple switch with a socket is rarely used, but it is convenient when you need to control several light sources from one point where you need to connect electrical appliances. The unit is multifunctional and takes up little space, since three devices are combined in one.

Connecting a three-key switch is a little more complicated than a one-key switch. The difference is that it has three output contacts to the light bulbs. The block socket works like separate device, and the neutral wire from the distribution box is connected to it, and the phase is connected through a jumper from the switch.