The board intended for parquet must first be straightened. Knowing the property of wood to bend under the influence of moisture, it should be used in combination with mechanical action. If the board has not been impregnated with any moisture-resistant substances and absorbs moisture, the situation is simpler. If the wood is not “prone to drink,” then some layer of it that inhibits moisture absorption will have to be removed by scraping and even planing, depending on how significant the obstacle is.

23. Leveling a warped painting using blades

24. Lattice clamp

When this is done (of course, these actions are permissible only after strengthening the paint layer, if it is in poor condition), the picture is laid on a flat, durable table front side down, placing some fabric under it to protect the texture. Cotton wool soaked warm water, wipe the board generously enough so that after the water has been absorbed by the board, the surface remains wet. After this, even bars are laid and a load is placed on them (iron, weights, pieces of marble, etc.). The load should not be too heavy, otherwise it may have an excessively rapid effect and damage the work. Always remembering that “arcs are bent with patience and not suddenly,” one should not rush. As the load acts, moistening should be repeated.

You can also use this technique: cover the moistened area with a wet cloth, place the same weights and, as it releases moisture to the wood, resume wetting. The advantage of this technique is that the material gradually and constantly moistens the wood, but it is not so convenient to observe the condition of the board.

To straighten the board, a system of pressing with blades is sometimes used at various points on the board. Above the lying picture, at some distance from it, place two or three wooden bars attached to the table. Wooden or cork pads and blades of the required size are placed between the picture board and the bars, which are lightly “beaten” with a hammer from time to time. Blades must be installed in various parts boards, both tightly fitting to the table (so that they cannot rise and contribute to cracking of the board), and raised ones, those that must be straightened. Schematically it will look like shown in Fig. 23.

A more mechanized device for fixing warped boards is called a “lattice clamp” (Fig. 24).

It resembles an ordinary wooden harrow, in which, instead of teeth, wooden screws act in the bars, like our ordinary clamps. The entire structure is placed above the table and firmly fixed on it, forming, as it were, general machine. This machine is very convenient to use, as it allows you to press in different places on the board placed under the grate. In this case, the pressure is applied very smoothly (the hand feels the screw) and at the same time the pressure force can be adjusted. In addition to straightening warped areas, this machine is an excellent press for duplicating boards in a number of other restoration works. The picture placed under the grate, as it straightens, is pressed more and more against the trunk until, finally, it “spreads out” on it.

A tree, like any other natural material, are characterized by many disadvantages that worsen technical properties wood or limiting the possibilities of its practical use. One of these defects is deformation - warping that occurs during sawing, drying or storage. Carpenter from the USA G. Rogowski tells how to fix warped boards using woodworking machines.

Board defects. When wood dries and ages, it is subject to various deformations: 1 - longitudinal warping - curvature along the length in a plane perpendicular to the face; 2 - transverse warping appears as transverse bending along the width of the front side of the board (if there is noticeable transverse warping, spread the board into narrow strips; if the defect is eliminated by jointing and planing, the result will be very thin board); 3 - wingedness: if the board is weakly twisted, it can be joined with adjacent boards or panels; if the twist is strong, the board will have to be cut into short sections to use it; 4 - longitudinal curvature along the edge in a plane parallel to the face; with such a defect, it is irrational to cut a board with straight and parallel edges, since it will go to waste large number wood

Cracking. It can occur anywhere on the board, but more often occurs at the ends of the boards (top photo). This is the result of drying too quickly. Cracks can be found everywhere, although they are more likely to appear at the ends of the boards. They can also appear in the middle of the board (photo in the middle). Internal cracks can be detected by cross cutting.

I deal with boards as follows. First, I determine which boards can be used for certain products or parts for them. Then I saw them to length with an allowance of 25 mm and band saw I unravel with an allowance of 3 mm in width. I mill and plan workpieces with an allowance of 3 mm in thickness. At this stage I identify serious defects and do not try to get perfectly straight edges. After processing the workpieces, I put the boards aside for several days so that the internal stresses appear. After exposure, I process the boards finally - I give them rectangular shape and cut it to size.

As a rule, the detected defects are the result of what was done to the boards before sale. When the wood dries (even in ideal conditions), it deforms-

It should also be taken into account that most unfinished boards have cracks at the ends. They arise due to the fact that during drying, moisture comes out faster through the end of the board than from the face. Therefore, before drying, I paint over the ends of fresh boards, and when purchasing, I choose boards slightly longer than the required size.

Boards can also crack in the middle. As a rule, the cracks are narrow (up to 3 mm). In boards that have dried very quickly, significant internal stresses can develop, leading to the formation of a network of so-called “drying cracks.”

ki" or one large crack running along the entire length of the board. “Shrinkage cracks” can only be found by carefully examining the face of the board.

A small section with cracks can be cut out and used for firewood. But some craftsmen fill in the cracks epoxy glue or hammer it in with wedges and use the board.

LONGITUDINALLY WARNED BOARD

To determine whether there is longitudinal warping, I “shoot” my eye along the edge. In the product, boards with transverse warping are best used for short parts. When “sighting”, I mark the even areas with a pencil. Then I saw the board crosswise into short sections and, to get a horizontal surface, planed them, placing them on the planer table with the convex side up. To plan the front side, I set the planing depth to a small one (about 0.8 mm). The machine will first remove the wood from the ends. I don’t put too much pressure on the board, otherwise in some places it can be bent and as a result it will not be planed flat and even.

Longitudinal warping along the layer. If you need short boards, longitudinal warping is not very bad. You can always cut short sections from a long board and plan them. But for products with long lengths, long boards are needed. In this case, I choose a workpiece thick enough to get a part of the required thickness when jointing.

To do this, I place the board with the concave side down on the planer table across the cutting head and plan it. I press the board evenly and don’t let it hang down. I set the gouging depth to about 0.6 mm (even for gru-

bykh blanks). With a greater planing depth, there is more vibration, which reduces the accuracy and cleanliness of processing.

When planing high places, I place a board with a hump on the planer table and press on the hanging end. With this I slightly raise the end of the board that passes over the cutting head. I feed the board forward so that the knives begin to plan the hump. Then I transfer the weight to the part of the board being processed so that it does not push away from the head and plan the hump in several passes. I end up planing the entire front surface of the board.

If you come across a board with curled fiber (often happens near knots),

To reduce the likelihood of rips, before planing I lightly moisten the fibers with a wet rag and remove less than 0.8 mm per pass.

TRANSVERSE BOARD

The amount of transverse deflection can be determined by placing a ruler across the board.

Transverse deformation - curvature along the width. The reason for transverse warping is, as a rule, different humidity levels on the front surfaces of the board (the drier side shrinks, the wetter side expands.) I determine this defect by placing a ruler across the surface of the board.

To eliminate such a defect, I place the board with the concave side on the planer and, having set a small cutting depth, plan it in several passes. I set the planing depth in accordance with the deflection of the board.

To eliminate lateral warping, I place the board with the convex side up on the planer. First, the machine will remove the wood along the edges of the face.

If the lateral warpage is large, the board may be too thin.

TWISTED BOARD

Winging is a spiral curvature along the length. Twisting -. the worst thing that can happen. I determine it using straightening rods by placing a board on the lid of the workbench. I lay the board face down and press into adjacent corners. If the board wobbles, it is spirally curved.

If the board has other defects besides winging, I first eliminate the curl. I place the board on the planer table and press down on the bottom corner. At the beginning of planing, I apply more force to the front of the board, then, as the cutting head passes, I accordingly change the point of application of the load towards the back of the board. I plane the board diagonally from one high corner to the other. I repeat the passes until the board is the same thickness.

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Very often in construction and repairs we are faced with the need to use various boards. Wood adds beauty and practicality to both interior and exterior decoration. However, not all of them are perfectly smooth during use, and manufacturers’ guarantees about this are not always justified. What to do and what to do in such cases? Is it possible to eliminate defects irrevocably, and how can this be achieved? We will discuss this today in our article.

Ways to combat curvature

So, if you are an expert in this field of knowledge and are not used to giving up under any circumstances, then do not be clouded in this case either. A simple plane will help you here, with which you can plan a dry board fixed in a stationary state. Pay attention to the length of the sole of such a tool, since a short plane will not be able to eliminate such a defect. Thus, you will get a completely flat edged board without special effort. If there are not enough boards, then manual option A plane will help to cope with this task.

If there is a mountain of materials in front of you, then use an electric planer, since here the back is already more difficult. This requires endurance and patience, and without special carpentry skills you will get by quite well.

Fix such a board and slowly remove the warped part of it. Thanks to the wide base of the plane, you will be able to feel the exit to a flat plane. It should be remembered that such a process will reduce the thickness of the boards. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make the material absolutely even, therefore, when laying the boards on the floor when installing it, try to do it closely, securing it with self-tapping screws. After this, sanding will consolidate the result. This is where a scraping machine will come in handy; you don’t have to buy it, but you can rent it, which will help you save on costs.

The second option for correcting uneven board surfaces is to follow the simple laws of physics - the action of weight. Stack the boards using special spacers to prevent them from touching each other. Place heavy things on top, say barrels of water. All this should be placed in the barn, where the window will be open and turned on heat gun. This method will help you save the thickness of the boards, but the effect of this procedure is not always justified.

Causes of curvature

It should be noted that the result of any method of dealing with crooked boards depends on the cause of such a violation. If the floor was laid incorrectly or the curvature was the result of wet boards, then simple leveling will not bring long-lasting results. In addition, you will need to dismantle the cavity under the boards, dry it and set up a ventilation system, only then will leveling the boards make sense.

Thus, there are several ways out of the current situation and their result will be positive if you take a comprehensive approach to solving the issue. Good luck!

Place the board on the concrete surface. The room should be cool and dry.
Place another piece of lumber parallel to the deformed part. It should be placed between two even boards of the same size.

In some cases, it is possible to lay lumber with so-called “mirror” deformation.

The structure is secured with clamps. The curved piece is laid with the deformation down. If the board is curved in an arc, then the protruding side turns upward.

Treat the wood with a steam cleaner and place a weight evenly on its surface.
If you are straightening a long board, additional weights are placed at its ends. The result is checked after 3 days.
If unsuccessful, the procedure is repeated.

Straightening a wooden board

To straighten a wooden board, you need the following tools:

• Parquet sander;
• Electric and manual plane.

First of all, you need to secure the board motionless. After this, begin to carefully remove all surface defects from the wood.
When choosing a plane, pay attention to the fact that the sole of the plane must be long. A planer with a short surface will in any case leave unevenness on the wood.

If there is not much lumber, you can get by with a hand plane If you have a lot of wood, you will have to use an electric one. Its wide sole and comfortable design will almost independently level the surface of the board.

Please note that this treatment reduces the thickness of the lumber.

If wooden boards are intended for laying on the floor, then all defects on the front surface of the boards are eliminated before installation. Otherwise, in about a year the boards will completely dry out and become completely deformed.

If you start trying to sew crooked boards onto the floor, then in any case they need to be laid tightly board to board and additionally screwed together using self-tapping screws.
In case of such installation, the floor will in any case need to be carefully sanded with a parquet sander.

In order to save money, you can not purchase tools, but rent them.

Before you start making wood products, you need to prepare the source material and, in particular, eliminate the curvature of the boards by straightening at least one edge.
If the deflection of the board does not exceed 15 mm, then you can straighten the edge using a plane or woodworking machine, but if you come across a workpiece with a large curvature, use one of the suggested techniques.

1. A long board, the deflection of which is more than 15 mm, should be cut into 2-3 short ones. This will reduce the deflection of each workpiece and use a plane. The figure shows how from a long board with a deflection of 20 mm, you can get three workpieces with a deflection of 7 mm.

2. If for some reason it is impossible to cut the board into several parts, try using this method.
Set the woodworking machine to a cutting depth of 1.5mm, then place the piece with the concave edge on the machine table and make several passes from one end of the board. With each pass, the length of the processed part of the board will increase. As the cut gets closer to the middle of the board, turn it with the other end and repeat this procedure. Both cuts should “meet” in the middle of the board. After such an operation, the curvature (deflection) of the edge will be less than 3 mm. Now use two full passes to completely level the edge.
Start processing from the end of the board where the wood fibers are directed obliquely downwards away from the cutter. Make the last pass along the entire length of the board, reducing the removal amount to 1 mm. To avoid chipping and scuffing, the feed should be small.

The direction of the grain of the board in relation to the direction of rotation of the cutter

We remove material 1.5 mm at a time until the curvature of the board is reduced to 3 mm or less

3. If the board is too long for processing (planing) on ​​the machine, or the curvature of the short board is very large, proceed as follows. Using a straight edge or scoring cord, mark a line as shown in the picture and saw off the concave part of the board along the line circular saw. Finish the edge using a plane in one pass.

Tapping a line using a cord

It should be remembered that the wood of some tree species easily chips or tears. This often happens when working, for example, with maple boards with characteristic bird's eye curls, especially if the plane blades are not sharpened enough. In this case, reduce the feed to the minimum (2.5-5 cm/s) and remove chips of 1 mm or less.
If you are eliminating a slight curvature of the board and it is difficult to determine the amount of material removal, you can use next way. Draw a wavy line along the edge, then make one pass. The lines remaining on the edge will tell you about the need for further processing.