Install a shield in the apartment. Correct wiring in the panel

Electrical network houses or apartments are not only about wires, sockets, light bulbs and switches. The more complex and most important part of the electrical circuit is considered electrical panel, which contains circuit breakers, RCDs, automatic devices and additional equipment. It is in electroshield The control unit for all electrical equipment is located in a separate area. Until recently, there were no electrical panels in the apartments. It was believed that it was quite enough switchboard , which is located on the landing. A separate apartment relied on an electric meter and a couple of automatic machines.

However, sometimes the meter was located in the apartment and there were two fuse plugs with it. However, progress does not stand still, energy consumption has increased several times, and safety requirements have changed. Suffice it to say that 30 years ago, consumption per individual apartment was limited to 800 W. Compare this figure with energy consumption today. One electric kettle consumes 1.5–2 kW, not to mention washing machines ah, microwave ovens, air conditioners, etc. It is clear that along with the increased energy consumption, the requirements for electrical equipment have also changed.

Before you start electrical installation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the apartment electrical panel, indicate what will be in it and how to connect it. When implementing such a scheme, the following factors must be taken into account:

1. Wiring type in the apartment: “star”, “loop”, in distribution boxes or a mixed version. The choice of wiring determines how many wires will fit to the panel. Their number can vary from one to several dozen.

2. Total power all electrical appliances in the apartment and separately the power consumption in the designated area. These values must be calculated in order to determine the nominal values of the machines.

3. Consider all load cases, for example, guests arrived and literally everything that was possible was included in the apartment: stove, air conditioning, computer and even a washing machine. If such calculations have already been made (you have determined the cross-section of the conductors), then it will be easier - automatic machines and other devices are selected for the cable. When it is designed for a current of 25 A, which corresponds to a cross-section of 2.5 mm² of copper conductor, then the machine or RCD must be 16 A.

4. What type of electrical appliances? installed in the apartment. Remember that it is necessary to install an RCD on certain devices (for example, washing machines).

To better imagine sequence of actions when installation of apartment electro shield, here is an example of installation a certain scheme. In front of you is a two-room apartment.

It is known which devices will be installed in it and the number of separate zones, and a diagram of the electrical panel has been drawn up. Installation begins with choosing the installation location of the shield, its size and type. The shield is usually located in the hallway near front door. This is the most rational - you don’t have to pull the incoming cable far. Although this condition is not strict, you can install an electrical panel in the back room.

Example of a diagram - apartment electrical wiring, three-phase

It is located at a height of 1.5 m or at eye level, so that it is convenient to reach with your hand. If there are children in the house, it makes sense to install the electrical panel higher and choose an option that can be locked with a key, for example, a metal ShchRV.

Example of a diagram - apartment electrical wiring, single-phase

View electro shield: outdoor or indoor installation, plastic or metal, with a transparent door or not - depends on the ease of installation and your preferences. For example, in plasterboard partitions It is most convenient to install a built-in shield, and on reinforced concrete walls - outdoor installation. You won’t have to dig out a hole in the wall for it, which is very labor-intensive.

Electrical panel size depends on the number of devices that will be located in it. There are approximately 30 poles, or modules, in the diagram shown. One single-pole circuit breaker occupies one module. All electrical devices located in the panel have dimensions that are multiples of the width of this module. For example, a counter can take up space equivalent to that of 8 machines; to install it, you will need a box with 8 modules. By counting the number of machines and the sizes of other electrical devices, you can find out what size shield is needed. You don’t need to go to the store to buy it with a ruler. The shields are called that way: 12 modules, 36 modules, etc.

There are many types of them. In our case, we will need a box with 36 modules. There are some that may have space inside for a meter and separately for machines and other devices attached to a DIN rail, or only for mounting on a DIN rail. There are plenty of options. To select the right shield, you need to make a list of all the equipment that will be installed inside and consult with the salesperson in the store.

If electrointernal installation panel, then to connect a large number of wires to it, wide grooves are hollowed out, capable of accommodating a bundle of cables. For external use - appropriately sized boxes or a sufficient number plastic pipes. To insert wires into the plastic electrical panel, there are holes on the side panels around the perimeter, covered with break-out hatches. The metal shield has ready-made holes: at the top - for incoming cables, at the bottom - for outgoing ones. The wires at the entry and exit points of the shields in such boxes are protected using seals or couplings. If the metal box has a sealed lid, then installation of couplings is required.

Outer electro shield fastened to the wall using dowel nails or screws. The inner one can also be attached to the back cover and additionally grabbed at the edges gypsum glue or alabaster. After the panel is installed in place and the wires are inserted into it, it is the turn of the electrical installation equipment. Inside any box there are special pins for attaching a DIN rail. Meters can be mounted on this rail or special place inside the shield with conventional fasteners: screws or screws.

Installing machines is very easy: just insert them onto the DIN rail until you hear a click - and the device will be securely fixed to the rail. To remove or move the machine, just pull out its ear with a screwdriver - the device will be removed from the mount. The electrical panel, which is suitable for installing the devices shown in our diagram, has 3 DIN rails of 12 modules each. A 40 A two-pole input circuit breaker is placed on the first bar from the top on the left. Phase and zero are connected to its two poles, respectively. The machine will display symbols indicating which conductor to connect to what. A counter is installed next to the machine to the right of it.

Note. The devices in the shield can be placed in any order - it doesn’t matter, as long as they are connected to each other correctly. However, it is much more convenient when they are located one after another in the same sequence as in the diagram.

If you do not have permission to install, then you should not connect the shield - a specialist will do this. If you do connect it yourself, you need to show the switchboard to the electrician on duty, who will check everything and put a seal on the meter.

Note. It is not possible to consume more energy than indicated on the meter. The organization (housing office) chooses which meter will be installed for the apartment. For example, if the device says that it is designed for 5–40 A, then it will be impossible to consume more than 8.8 kW. The meter will simply turn you off.

Immediately behind it is a two-pole 40 A circuit breaker, similar to the one installed in front of the meter. In truth, this machine is clearly overkill; it simply duplicates the work of the first VA. However, if you want to play it safe, you can install it. The space on the first DIN rail is over, now you need to move to the middle one. The voltage relay is installed first on the left on the middle shelf. This is such a cunning device that monitors extreme voltage values and keeps a record of its surges. Essentially, it duplicates the work of the VA, breaking the circuit if the current suddenly begins to rise or fall above or below the set values. In addition, the relay shows exactly when and how much the voltage changed. This additional control device is optional, but very useful if expensive electronic equipment is installed in the apartment.

Next in line are RCDs. After voltage relay common line is divided into 3 zones, each of which is controlled by one RCD. Since the machine in the circuit in front of this device is designed for a rated current of 40 A, the RCD is installed with the same rating. The response threshold for all 3 of these devices is 30 mA, which, in principle, is normal. However, it is better to install the RCD, which is responsible for the bathroom, with a threshold of 10 mA. You should not install one such device to connect an oven and a washing machine with a water heater in the kitchen. It is better to split these devices into different RCDs. The middle DIN rail is occupied, now you need to move to the bottom one. The entire lower bar is occupied by single-pole VAs. There are only 9 of them, so there is plenty of space. Each of these machines is responsible for a specific part of the circuit.

For example, the first and second from the left stand on 2 groups of sockets in the kitchen. This is correct, since the kitchen is the most powerful consumer; it houses a lot of electrical appliances. Another 2 machines control the power load in the bathroom, since it contains serious power equipment: a water heater and a washing machine. These devices are connected not through sockets, of which there should be fewer in the bathroom, but through distribution boxes and terminals. The last 2 machines in a row of 10 A each are installed on lighting, which is divided into 2 zones: living rooms and other rooms - bathroom, kitchen, corridor and toilet.

The diagram shows that there is a two-pole circuit breaker at the input. Then the apartment network is divided into 2 main zones: lighting and power. The RCD and the automatic power zone in front of it are protected, it is additionally divided into 3 parts and the RCD does not control the lighting zone. After the machines and other devices are in place, it is necessary to connect them to each other and to the network. This connection occurs only when the incoming cable is disconnected. You should start by installing 2 tires inside the shield on special stands, which must be used. In a plastic or metal box, such busbars are installed in free space on insulating stands. These buses serve to connect neutral and grounding conductors together, since all equipment after the RCD is connected together only by phase conductors.

The busbars must be free to allow room for suitable wires. It is necessary to select a bus based on the number of wires suitable for it. IN in this case It's better to choose a tire with 14 holes to have 2 in reserve. It is best to connect devices to each other using single-wire conductors, since they are well fixed in place and do not require special lugs to be installed on the exposed part. To connect the poles of the machines to each other, you can use a special single-pole comb busbar; If there is none, then simply twist the wires.

Connecting electrical devices is not difficult if you carefully read the diagram and take your time with the connection. Please note that the 2 wires on the far right in the diagram, responsible for lighting, do not have ground wires. If there are no fluorescent fixtures with a ground terminal, this is normal. When there is, you will have to install a three-wire wire for the lighting and connect the grounding conductor to the common ground bus.

After the equipment is connected to each other, the incoming cable and the wires extending to the power zones are connected. Last step: sign each machine - what exactly it belongs to. There are special windows for this. If there are none, then the inscriptions are made on plastic cover shield that covers the inside of the box. The finishing touch is to turn on the apartment electrical panel. After this, you need to check the power on all wires using an indicator.

You should always buy a little shield larger size for several groups. If there is a need to supply additional equipment, then you won't have to change it.
You should not combine several electrical appliances with different purposes under one RCD, otherwise it will turn out that a hairdryer will break in the bathroom, and the computer in the living room will turn off. It is better to divide the zones geographically: bathroom with toilet, separate living rooms, kitchen.
It is better to install the RCD after the machine according to the diagram, and it should be one step higher in terms of the rated current value. For example, a VA/RCD pair should be like this - 16 A/25 A. After all, the RCD does not respond to a short circuit. This should be done automatically, so it is better to choose a higher rating of the RCD so that it does not burn out. You can put equal values, there won’t be a big mistake.
If the RCD protects several machines in a row and is placed in front of the machines according to the scheme, this is a violation. In this case, in front of the RCD there is usually an input circuit breaker (or maybe more than one). This is prohibited, or rather, not according to energy supervision rules. According to this organization, there should be a VA machine on the incoming cable, then a meter, and only then an RCD. You can put a difavtomat in front of the counter.
The optimal solution would be to install an RCD in each zone after the machine. However, looking at the prices, you have to combine several machines under one RCD.
You should not install RCDs and breakers on sockets to which a computer will be connected. This tricky device can cause false triggering of devices, especially if the trigger threshold is not calculated.
It is better to purchase a mechanical RCD rather than an electronic one - it is more reliable and does not depend on the operation of the network.

Apartment electro shield is not the only problem that a home electrician may encounter. After all, there is also floor electrical panel, in which, in theory, to manage home handyman You can't, but sometimes you have to. It’s unlikely that you’ll have to install such a switchboard, but if you’re serious about upgrading the electricity in your apartment, you can’t leave it without attention. There will be no great use in ultra-modern equipment inside the apartment if the power cable in the switchboard is made of aluminum retirement age, and the energy supply is controlled by a single 25 A package switch, clearly not the latest model.

Let's figure out what's going on in the switchboard, which, as a rule, is locked, and the key is kept by the electrician on duty. This is the wiring from one power supply panel for several apartments. The principle is the same as that of a water supply system - one riser per entrance, from which there are branches to each user. True, the electricity then returns as zero, and the water supply ends in sewage. You should immediately warn: if you do not have access to the switchboard, then you should not climb into it, unless the machine cuts off the electricity and you will need to turn it on again. All work must be done by an electrician from the housing office.

The only thing that can be achieved is to buy materials and get modernization from the housing office. The electrician will do it, and you will watch. The switchboard must correspond to the apartment panel, if not in terms of equipment, then at least in terms of power and reliability. Inside the shield there is a picture that will make anyone horrified. These are tangled clumps of wires of unknown cross-section, connected together in a wide variety of ways, half-decayed insulation, dilapidated machines in cases covered with cracks. All this is neatly covered with dust, causing nostalgia (or allergies) for Soviet times.

As a rule, it is impossible to figure out which cable belongs to what - there are no tags or inscriptions on them. The cable leading to the apartment is identified by long experiments of turning off the input circuit breaker and poking a probe at all contacts, or approximately guessed by the direction. You can do this: draw up a diagram of what exactly needs to be done, buy materials and agree with an electrician to complete the work. It is best to cooperate with your neighbors to redo the entire shield.

Required actions:

1. Replace the cable coming from the riser with a copper cable of the appropriate cross-section. In this case you need to connect aluminum cable riser with copper outlet using a special terminal or compression.
2. Replace old AE or package switches with modern circuit breakers suitable for amperage, which must be mounted on a DIN rail.
3. If the neutral and grounding wires are attached to the grounding bus and the common zero using old connectors, then it is better to replace them with newer and more modern ones.

There is another way to radically replace all equipment in floor electrical panel. If the counter is transferred to apartment electrical panel, then in the storey you can install a switch with fuse links or even without them. The main thing is that the housing office agrees with this.

None modern home can't do without electricity. During repairs, the question arises about the correct, safe distribution of energy throughout the room - this is the function of the electrical panel. If you plan to install the equipment yourself, it is important to understand the entire process.

What is an electrical panel for?

The purpose of the electrical panel is to receive energy from an external source and distribute it to consumers. It prevents short circuits and controls current loads. The electrical panel in the apartment is capable of monitoring the quality of incoming electricity, and in the event of failures, it eliminates the problem independently or connects additional equipment. Another important function is to ensure the safety of people and animals and prevent electric shocks.

Where is the best place to install

Most convenient place- in the hallway, near the front door. With this placement, there is no need to pull a long cord from the platform. Optimal height– eye level of an adult, to make it easier to take readings from meters, and, if necessary, to effortlessly de-energize the room.

In a private house, the place for it is selected taking into account the location of the underground power supply network and the point where the cable will be inserted into the house.

Switchboard elements

Before you understand the electrical panel plan, you need to find out what elements it consists of:

Input circuit breaker. Installed to ensure the safety of all wiring. Allows you to turn off the power supply to the room in order to replace elements and perform safe preventive maintenance. For convenience, a switch is placed in front of the module and the power cable is connected to it.
Electricity meter. It keeps track of electricity consumption in a room and is installed at the entrance, with all equipment or separately, for example, on a staircase landing.
Residual current device. Prevents fires, protects against electric shocks. In small apartments with a small load one is enough, in large apartments you will need several, on separate lines consuming large number energy (washing machine, electric stove).
Linear machines. Separate the lines different rooms, equipment, lighting. Protect wiring and household appliances from short circuits and overloads. They prevent fire by being triggered by heat.
Differential circuit breaker (diffavtomat). Provides fire safety, prevents overloading of electrical wiring.
DIN rail. It is attached to the back wall of the electrical panel and performs the function of fastening. The quantity depends on the size of the cabinet; the installation plan will help you avoid mistakes.
Connecting busbars. Designed for connecting working zeros. There are neutral and grounding terminal bars. Both are used in the electrical panel.
Distribution buses. Linear circuit breakers, RCDs, and differential circuit breakers are connected through the input terminal block. Used for current conductor, working zero.

Which modular equipment to choose

Purchase modular devices should be done only after drawing up a plan for the electrical panel, when all ratings are known.

There are several points to consider when choosing:

It is better to buy equipment of one brand and series. U different manufacturers The width of the module may differ slightly in size; this is visually imperceptible, but can lead to problems with mating combs.
For assembly, a mounting wire PV1 or PV3 is required. A length of 2–4 meters is sufficient. Neutral and phase conductors are divided by color: white, black or red for phase, blue for working zero.
The modules are connected to each other using special one, two or three-pole combs. They will need end caps.
Zero buses can be replaced with a cross-module. They are located in the same housing, reliably isolated from each other. This makes assembly easier.
A DIN rail stopper will come in handy. It fixes the modules, preventing them from moving during installation and connection.
Plastic ties, clamps for fixing cables and wires inside the box.

How to distribute electricity among groups

For proper distribution of electricity, a number of rules must be followed:

Powerful consumers of electricity, such as an electric stove, oven, washing and dishwasher, air conditioner and others are separated into separate groups. The cable must be solid, without branches, and go from the electrical panel to the device. A cross section of 2.5 is used for connection. Each line in the panel is protected by a 16A circuit breaker (AB).
Meet ovens, requiring the use of wire with large diameter– 4 mm2. For them, AB should be 20 Amperes.
Sockets are separated into separate groups for each room. Use a 2.5 three-core cord. If necessary, you can turn off the power without turning off the others.
Lighting is also done separately for each room. Use 1.5 mm2 wire.

Electrical panel diagram

A master with extensive experience can install a panel without first drawing up a diagram; for beginners, it is advisable to think through and calculate all the details in advance.

In an apartment without grounding

In older buildings there is no grounding, so there is no need for a PE bus. To assemble the simple option V one-room apartment you will need:

housing with DIN rails;
two-pole input circuit breaker 32 Ampere;
electricity meter
RCD 2P 40A at 30 mA;
3 single-pole circuit breakers 16 A (lighting, sockets, washing machine);
PEN bus (for separate connection of zero and protection).

A necessary element in the presence of old electrical wiring is a voltage control relay. It protects household appliances from damage by breaking the circuit if the insulation is damaged.

When planning 2-3-room apartments, the scheme should be expanded. Additional two-pole protection is installed on socket lines and branches with large household appliances. This provides high degree safety even without grounding.

In an apartment with grounding

In a new house with grounding, the electrical panel diagram will be different. To install a switchboard in a one-room apartment with a stove in the kitchen, you will need:

housing with two rows of DIN rails;
two-pole AB 40 A;
protection 2P 50A at 30 mA;
single-phase electric meter;
zero bus (working zero N) and grounding (PE);
4 single-pole package switches (three 16 A and one 25 A for the stove);
comb bus (for connection).
A 40 A electric meter is mounted on the landing or in a separate box.

Large living areas with many rooms and branches for large equipment require additional 16-25 A / 10 mA two-pole residual current devices. In this situation, they are more reliable and will respond quickly in the event of a small leak. Many people have experienced electric shock from a washing machine; this occurs due to problems with internal wiring and is dangerous, especially for children and the elderly. The equipment senses surges in the machine connection line, turning off the power.

Both of the above circuits are designed for a voltage of 220 W. It is used in most residential buildings. However, there are apartments with a power supply of 380 W, the electrical panels in them are arranged differently, much more complicated.

Panel diagram with three-phase power supply

In new modern houses In townhouses, wiring with a voltage of 380 W is found. The electrical panel device in this case can be three-phase or single-phase. The electricity meter is installed separately on the site next to the switch.

For installation you will need:

housing with DIN rails;
three-phase meter;
three-pole AV with a rating of 63 Amperes;
linear machines for 1 pole (16, 25, 40 A);
two-pole RCD 40 A at 30 mA;
zero buses and protective;
additional two-pole kitchens 16A/30mA;
comb tires.

Electrical panel in a private house

There are also two types of wiring in houses: 220 W and 380 W. For a small house or cottage where there are no heavy loads, complex assembly is not required.

For installation you will need:

housing with DIN rail;
input two-pole electrical switch with a rating of 40 Amperes;
two-pole differential circuit breaker or residual current device with a rating of 50 A/30 mA;
electricity meter (single-phase, corresponding in current rating to the input circuit breaker, single or multi-tariff);
batch switches/circuit breakers for 1 pole (according to the number of load lines, with a rating of 16A (for lighting, sockets), with a rating of 25–40A for a powerful load, for example, a stove);
protective, N bus;
insulated connecting comb.

If there is a garage or workshop, therefore, there will be more working branches; disconnecting equipment and additional protective shutdown devices are also installed on them. This measure is necessary due to high humidity and lack of heating in these premises.

Large houses, as well as cottages, are most often powered from a three-phase network. To assemble an electrical panel, many elements are required:

housing with 2–3 rows of DIN rails;
input machine for 3 poles 63A;
three-phase electric meter (63 A);
distribution buses;
1P automatic switches for individual load groups (light - 16A, sockets - 25A, powerful household
equipment and outbuildings - 40A);
four-pole RCD 80A at 300mA (for general fire protection of the wiring circuit);
three-pole circuit breaker rated 20 A, RCD 4P 25 A with leakage current up to 30 mA for connection
electric stoves or automatic 20A/30 mA;
additional two-pole RCD 10/16/30 mA to protect individual groups: sockets, garage;
zero buses and PE;
comb tires.

A powerful RCD will protect wiring from fire due to short circuit or insulation damage. To prevent electric shocks, devices with a lower rating are installed on individual circuits.

Stages of assembly and installation of an electrical panel

The assembly procedure is given using the example of a typical apartment switchboard with an electric meter.

On preparatory stage follows:

Check if everything is necessary equipment purchased.
Install the housing on designated place on the wall or in a niche.
Prepare apartment wiring for connection: remove top layer insulation, for convenience you can label the cables so as not to get confused which one goes where.

Main connection step:

1. If there is a switch, then it is installed first.
2. We install an introductory machine.
3. We fix the zero, connect the wires, except those that will pass through the residual current device. The length of the cord should be such that there is no tension, but also large stock not needed.
4. If the meter is planned to be installed.
5. The final link in entrance group is common fire protection.
6. We fix the linear circuit breakers on a DIN rail, connecting them with a comb or a wire jumper through the upper terminals.

We connect the residual current device to a category under heavy load or in wet rooms. It can be installed on a separate branch, for example, for a washing machine, or on several groups of one room.
We install the PE, connect the wires from the load cables to it.
After all the parts are connected to each other, it is necessary to connect the cable from the panel located in the entrance. A single-phase network has three wires: phase, working zero, protective zero.
Three-phase network has five cores: three phase, neutral, protective. Zero and phase are connected to a switch or input circuit breaker, the PE conductor is connected to the protective bus. The phase and zero of the second group extend from the switch to the common RCD. N is connected to the zero bus, then distributed to all devices.
After the power cable is connected, the contacts input machine and the terminal blocks of the meter must be sealed. This is done by a representative of the energy supply organization.
Before applying voltage through the network, check the equipment, connections, and insulation. If everything is in order, apply voltage, including a test load, to check the operation of the circuit elements.

I replaced the CO-505 meter in the apartment panel with a Mercury 201 meter. Now you need to replace the machines and install an RCD in apartment shield , this must be done for several reasons. The photo below shows the apartment panel and the diagram of the panel from the developer at the time of delivery of the house.

Why is it necessary to change the automatic devices in the apartment panel and install an RCD? Because the apartment panel was assembled by the developer with gross violations, namely:

Firstly— the cross-section of the input wire of the PPV (commonly called “noodles”), which comes from the floor panel to the apartment panel, is 4 sq. mm. and on such a wire, to protect it, an input circuit breaker of no more than 25A is installed, and the developer installed an input circuit breaker of 40A in the apartment panel, i.e. it turns out that in case high load in the apartment, our input wire will melt, and the 40A circuit breaker will not turn off. Therefore, it is necessary to install a 25A input circuit breaker in the apartment panel to protect the PPV wire of 4 sq. mm;

secondly— the outgoing circuit breakers in the apartment panel are set to 25A, which is also a gross violation. Because all household sockets are designed for a current of no more than 16A, and even then, if these sockets are from quality manufacturers, and if they are from Turkey or China, then there will not be 16A there. The lights and sockets in the apartment are connected with a 3x2.5 PPV wire; one wire from the 25A breaker in the apartment panel goes to both the light and the sockets. We will install circuit breakers with a rated current of 16A in the apartment panel so that our sockets do not melt;

thirdly— let’s throw out all the Chinese IEK machines and install more reliable ones in the apartment panel ABB automatic machines"home"SH 200 series;

fourthly— we will install an RCD from ABB of the “home” FH 202 series with a rated current of 40A in the apartment panel, one step higher than the 25A input circuit breaker. RCDs from well-known ABB brands,Schneider Electric, Legrand does not exist at 32A. I note that we installed a 50A RCD with a leakage current of 30 mA in the floor panel, but again, this is Sassin from China, which you should not trust with your life. But we will not remove the Chinese RCD in the floor panel; we will leave it as additional differential protection.

Because We add an RCD to the apartment panel, then the layout of the apartment panel will change relative to the original panel diagram from the developer.

Apartment panel. Scheme.

Let's start replacing the machines and RCDs in the apartment panel. First what needs to be done is turn off the input circuit breaker and RCD in the floor panel. Then we unscrew the metal panel (plastron) in the apartment panel and “mark” the wires with electrical tape, blue for the working zero N, yellow-green for protective PE, we don’t touch the phase wire, it remains white. You can apply markings with a regular pen or marker, but you need to be careful with the wires so as not to erase the inscriptions. Our wires are all white (the developer, as usually happens, saves on everything) and it is easy to confuse or forget where in the apartment panel we have a phase, where is zero, and where is the protective conductor.

After this, you can unscrew the wires from the machines. Zero worker and protective conductors The outgoing lines to the apartment may not be touched, because Our machines will be single-pole. The first thing we install in the apartment panel is on a DIN rail and connect the ABB 25A input circuit breaker. PPV wire 4 sq. mm. Ours is mono-core, so there is no need to crimp it with the NShVI ferrule.

Next, we install and connect into the apartment panel according to the diagram a 40A ABB RCD with a leakage current of 30 mA. We connect the RCD in the apartment panel with a PV-3 stranded wire, the ends of which are crimped with gray NShVI sleeve lugs for 4 sq. mm.

We install single-pole (single-module) ABB SH 201 16A circuit breakers on a DIN rail in the apartment panel.

We will connect the single-pole circuit breakers in the apartment panel with a comb, which we still have after dismantling the IEK circuit breakers.

You should pay attention to ensure that the comb fits, because... It happens that machines and combs from different machines do not fit together well.

The comb is not installed quite level, because... The photo was taken even before the machine contacts were tightened.

Connecting phase wires, outgoing lines to single-pole circuit breakers in the apartment panel.

We check the tightness of the contacts of the machines and the RCD. We supply voltage to the apartment panel by turning on the RCD in the floor panel. We turn on the 25A input circuit breaker, check the operation of the RCD by pressing the “TEST” button, it should turn off. Next, we supply voltage to consumers in the apartment by turning on single-pole circuit breakers.

If everything works for us, the lights are on, then we close the machines and RCDs in the apartment panel metal panel and paste the designations of automatic machines and RCDs into the apartment panel.

Well, that’s all, we installed and connected ABB automatic machines and RCDs to the apartment panel. I think that everyone needs to inspect the apartment and floor panels, and, if necessary, eliminate errors, because the electrical safety of your family, house or apartment depends on this, first of all.

Thank you for your attention.

Installation and assembly of the electrical panel - difficult work, requiring a clear sequence, where every action is important and does not tolerate neglect.

The main qualities of the device are safety and ease of use.

Purpose of the electrical panel:

accounting for electricity consumption;
circuit management;
protection of the circuit from fire due to overload.

Install an electrical panel in a house, apartment or country house on our own possible, but you need to own it basic knowledge and electrician skills.

Electrical panel project

For a person who is far from electricity, it is better to start designing an electrical panel when the wiring installation is completely ready and the wires are brought to the location of the future electrical panel. First you need to draw up drawings for the work and select suitable components.

Consumer calculations

Compiled full list consumers. To do this, you need to ignore devices like a fan or table lamp, and write down and number each wire connected to the panel. Sockets must be recorded separately, lighting - separately. High-power appliances (boilers, washing machines, air conditioners, electric stoves) require wiring protection from overload, so they are connected not through distribution boxes, but directly to the panel.

List of consumers for three-room apartment usually looks like this:

sockets:

bedroom;
living room;
children's;
kitchen;
bathroom;
entrance hall and corridor.

Washing machine;
boiler;
air conditioner;
electric stove;
lighting:

bedroom;
living room;
children's;
kitchen, bathroom;
hallway, corridor.

All consumers are divided into groups (circuits) in accordance with power consumption: sockets for household appliances in one room such as an iron, sconce, TV and others can be combined into one group (sockets in one room - one group, in another - another), lighting - to the next one, also by room. Each group has its own circuit breaker (or just a circuit breaker) on the panel, and for high-power appliances - washing machine, boiler, electric stove, air conditioner - there is one separately for each. Machines may also be called fuses or bags.

Important! Connection of low-power devices (TV, telephone, Internet, security) is carried out in a separate box!

Drawing up an electrical panel diagram

The electrical panel is a housing - metal or plastic box- with modules inside. A module is a component that occupies one installation “space” (within one DIN rail). Some devices can take up two or even three “places”.

For clarity, you should create a diagram according to which the shield will be assembled.

Examples of 220 V switchboard circuits:

introductory machine;
electric meter;
RCD (residual current device);
ground bus;
"zero" bus;
automatic sockets for high-power devices at 25 A;
automatic socket group for household appliances of low and medium power at 25 A;
automatic lighting 16 A;
L—phase;
N - zero;
PE - grounding.

Each house or apartment will have its own layout in accordance with the preferences of the owners.

Selection of components

Depending on the position on the wall, the electrical panel can be of two types:

internal - recessed into the wall, slightly protruding;
external - the body is not recessed, but simply fixed to the wall.

If the wiring in the house is hidden inside the walls, then an internal shield is more suitable. He less space It occupies, and is not particularly noticeable, since it protrudes from the wall minimally. To install such a shield, you must first prepare a niche in the wall for it. The wall thickness must be suitable.

If the wiring goes over the walls, then an external panel is suitable, which does not require preliminary preparation places. It is enough to attach the housing to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowel nails.

An external electrical panel can be installed both inside the house and in the yard on a pole.

It is better to choose a case from proven European companies with removable walls. It is desirable that the DIN rails are also easily removed or moved aside. You should not take frankly cheap cases: they are made of low-quality plastic, which dries quickly and becomes brittle, is not self-extinguishing and smokes heavily when ignited. Good cases are already ready for wiring inside, but cheap ones will have to be completed.

Important! It is better if there are free spaces left in the shield than not enough, so it is worth buying a case with a certain supply of installation spaces.

Modular devices

After installing the housing, you need to select automatic machines, RCDs, difautomatic devices (automatic and RCD in one), a meter, contactors and other devices. Additional modular sockets, buses, power supplies, and control devices can be installed on DIN rails.

When selecting modules, you need to consider the following parameters:

rated current;
speed of operation of machines;
shutdown current of automatic machines, difavtomats, RCDs;
permissible operating frequency for contactors.

The machines are selected separately for each circuit so that the system is balanced. So, if you allocate a 6-10 A circuit breaker for high-power devices, the latter will automatically turn off, preventing the equipment from working, and, conversely, an overly powerful circuit breaker installed for a low-power consumer will not protect the wiring from overload. For lighting, 6-10 A circuit breakers are used, ordinary household sockets, boilers, air conditioners, washing machines - 16 A, electric stoves - 20-25 A. An input circuit breaker is needed for 32-60 A, depending on the total current strength of all consumers of the facility.

In the event of a power surge, the circuits should be turned off independently of each other, preferably in order “from lower to higher,” which makes it possible not to de-energize the entire house in case of problems and makes it easier to detect them. Therefore, the machines are equipped with a “set” for the response time: first the lower one is turned off (0.1 s), then the higher one (0.5 s).

A suitable RCD is one whose rated current is higher than the total current of the machines subordinate to it. So, during a surge, the circuit breakers will turn off first, preventing damage to the RCD. For a 16 A machine, a 20-25 A RCD is installed; a 25 A electric stove machine requires a 40 A RCD.

An integral element of the system are the zero and ground buses - copper strips with holes into which wires are inserted and clamped with a bolt. The bar is placed on a dielectric insulator, which is mounted on a DIN rail.

Assembly and connection

Assembly and connection of the electrical panel requires strict adherence to safety regulations! It is better to place the modules in the shield housing according to the drawn up diagram.

Work order:

35 mm DIN rails are installed for the meter, machines, zero and grounding buses;
automatic machines, RCDs and two buses are installed, to which neutral and grounding wires are connected. The input circuit breaker, to which the power cable of the entire system is supplied, must be installed first in the upper left corner of the case. For convenience, it is better to connect the cable to the machine from above. The excess holes remaining in the case for supplying wires are closed with plugs;
The input machine is connected depending on its type:
phase and zero are connected to the two-pole;
to single-pole - only phase;
in 380 V switchboards, three phases are connected to the input circuit breaker.
It is better to connect the phases to the machine from below for the convenience of installing jumpers between the machines from above;
all automatic devices and RCDs are equipped with special copper busbars in insulation or with ordinary wires of sufficient cross-section. Blue wire The zero from the input cable is connected directly to the zero bus. When connecting RCDs and automatic circuit breakers, you need to connect the zero to the bus from each separately;
route and connect the cables to the machines according to the diagram. Neutral wires are indicated in blue, phase - in red, ground - in black and yellow.

Private homes and offices are often equipped with 380 V electrical panels. A 4 or 5-core cable is supplied to such a panel: two or three phases, neutral and ground.

The 380 V switchboard diagram will be as follows:

Three phases are connected to the input circuit breaker, after which they go to the meter. Then the phases go to a common circuit breaker, after which the wiring is divided into single-phase lines for 220-volt devices and three-phase lines for 380-volt equipment. The voltage between different phases is always 380 V, and between zero and any phase - 220 V.

Household sockets must always be supplied with zero and a phase, 220 V. If you supply two phases, 380 V, the equipment will quickly fail.

The grounding wire always bypasses the machines and goes from the grounding bus to the sockets. Grounding from the input cable also goes directly to the bus. Zero is connected directly from its bus if the sockets are connected through ordinary machines. If they are connected through an RCD or a circuit breaker, zero passes through them.

At the end of the work, the shield is closed and voltage is applied to it.

Important! All work is carried out only when the voltage on the line is turned off! The process is quite complex and requires certain knowledge and skills. If you have doubts, it is better to turn to specialists.

Hello dear reader! I hope you find it interesting.

Electrical panel in the apartment

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Symbols on the electrical circuit diagram of the panel

In the diagram I tried to define everything in detail symbols elements of the shield circuit. All that remains is to give them an explanation.

Input circuit breaker . A device designed to protect the entire electrical network from short circuit currents, as well as for general forced disconnection of the premises from the power supply.

Electric meter. Device for monitoring electricity consumption. The flow rate is shown in Kilowatt per hour (kW/h). Payment for electricity is made based on the readings of the electric meter. Electricity meters can be electromechanical and electronic. The latter are programmed.

Differential circuit breaker. This is an electromechanical device that combines a short-circuit protection circuit breaker and an RCD (residual current device) to protect people from leakage currents.

Wire connection buses. Each electrical panel is equipped with at least two busbars. One for neutral wires, the second for ground wires. In the given example electrical diagram shield of such buses 4(N;N1;N3;N4)

The panel has two separate functional groups (on the right in the diagram). One group has two branches, the second has three. For example, this option is suitable for separate functional groups of the bathroom and kitchen. Or any extensions to the house.

Normative references:

PUE (Rules for Electrical Installations) ed.7
GOST R 51628-2000, Distribution boards
GOST 2.702-75, Rules for the execution of electrical circuits
(Regulatory documents)