The operation of pipelines for various purposes requires that the liquid and gaseous media transported through them must move in a certain direction. Having made check valve with your own hands or by purchasing its serial model, you can meet this requirement for the operation of the pipeline and its equipment elements, which will allow long time keep them in working order.

Purpose and principle of operation of the device

Backflow in piping systems can occur for a variety of reasons. If we are talking about liquid media, this may be due to the pump being turned off, and in the case of ventilation, it may be due to incorrect installation of the exhaust pipe or a small amount of incoming air. Whatever causes backflow working environment in a pipeline system, this phenomenon is extremely undesirable, since it can lead not only to incorrect operation of the elements of such a system, but also to their failure.

To prevent the formation of reverse flow in the pipeline system, as mentioned above, check valves are installed on it, which may differ in both their appearance both dimensions and design. The main function of such a device, installed on pipelines through which liquid and gaseous media are transported, is to pass the working flow in one direction and block its movement at the moment when it begins to move in the opposite direction.

The design of check valves, regardless of their type, consists of the following elements:

• a housing, the inner part of which is formed by two communicating cylinders;
• a shut-off element, which can be a ball, a valve or a cylindrical spool;
• a spring that presses the locking element against seat located at the outlet of the valve through hole.

The principle of operation of the check valve is quite simple and is as follows.

• After the flow of the working medium entering the valve reaches the required pressure, the spring pressing the locking element is pressed out, allowing gas or liquid to freely pass through the internal cavity of the device.
• If the pressure of the working fluid flow in the pipeline drops, the spring returns the shut-off element to the closed state, blocking the flow in the opposite direction.

On modern market Many check valves available various types, which allows you to select such devices to solve specific purposes. Meanwhile, many home craftsmen, guided by a natural desire to save money, make check valves with their own hands and share drawings and diagrams of their homemade products on the Internet.

Making your own check valve for water

A homemade check valve for installation on a pipeline through which water is transported does not require expensive manufacturing consumables and sophisticated equipment, which makes it possible to save big. So, to make a check valve yourself, you need to prepare:

• coupling, on the body of which there is a thread external thread;
• female tee;
• a spring, the diameter of which allows it to freely enter the tee;
• a steel ball, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the cross-section of the internal cavity in the tee;
• screw plug;
• sealing tape FUM.

If you have not found a spring suitable in diameter, you can make it yourself, using a rod of the appropriate diameter and a rigid steel wire. It is necessary to drill a hole in the rod on which the homemade spring will be wound; the end of the wire will be inserted into it. To make winding the spring more convenient, the rod can be clamped in a vice, and the wire winding itself can be done using pliers.

Once all the materials for making a homemade check valve have been prepared, you can begin assembly, which is performed in the following sequence.

• A coupling is screwed into the internal threaded hole of the tee. This is done in such a way that it overlaps the side hole by approximately 2 mm. It is necessary to fulfill this requirement when tightening the coupling so that the ball, which will be located in the inner part of the tee, does not jump out into its side hole.
• In the hole located with opposite side tee, first the ball is inserted, and then the spring.
• The hole in the tee into which the ball and spring were inserted is plugged with a screw plug, tightened using FUM tape.

A check valve made according to the proposed scheme will work as follows: the flow of water entering such a device from the coupling side will push away the ball, pressed by the spring, and exit through the perpendicularly located hole of the tee.

The most important thing when making a check valve of the proposed design with your own hands is to correctly adjust the spring so that it does not deviate at the moment when the water pressure in the pipeline decreases, and at the same time is not too tight so as not to impede the flow of water passing through the device. In addition, it is necessary to carry out everything very well threaded connections to ensure absolute tightness of the check valve.

How to make a check valve for ventilation systems

The question of how to make a check valve to equip a ventilation system is no less pressing than making a similar device for water supply or sewerage. By installing a check valve in ventilation system, you will reliably protect your home from polluted and cold air entering such a system from the outside.

It should be noted that the check valve of the proposed design, when compared with serial models, is no less efficient and can successfully serve you for two to three years.

So, the manufacture of a homemade check valve to equip the ventilation system is carried out in the following sequence.

1. First of all, it is necessary to manufacture the main element of the check valve - the plate on which the flaps will be fixed. To create such a plate, which is cut strictly according to the shape and dimensions of the ventilation duct, you can use sheet textolite or other durable plastic 3–5 mm thick.
2. It is necessary to drill holes along the edges of the sawn plate, with the help of which it will be connected to the fan and fixed in the exhaust duct. In addition, holes must be drilled in the central part of the plate. This is necessary so that air can pass through it freely. How many holes you drill in such a plate will depend on throughput your ventilation system.
3. plate using sealant and sealing gasket, should be fixed in the exhaust pipe. It is also necessary to place rubber gaskets under the places where the plate will be fixed with screws. This way you will reduce the level of noise and vibration in your ventilation system.
4. A piece of dense film is cut out according to the shape and size of the plate, the thickness of which should be at least 0.1 mm. From the film, which is glued to the plate along its edge, the flaps of a homemade check valve will be formed in the future.
5. The exhaust pipe, in which a plate with a film glued to it is already installed, must be installed in the ventilation duct, using dowels or self-tapping screws for this purpose. After installing a check valve in the ventilation duct, the gaps between the walls of the duct and the exhaust pipe must be reliably sealed.

The final stage of installing a homemade check valve in a ventilation system is cutting the film glued to the plate into two equal halves. When performing this procedure, for which it is best to use a sharp mounting knife, you must ensure that the cut is perfectly even.

The principle by which the check valve of the design proposed above works is quite simple and is as follows.

• Nothing interferes with the flow of air that passes through such a valve in the direction from the room: the flaps open and allow it to pass freely.
• When reverse draft occurs in the ventilation system, the check valve flaps close securely, preventing outside air from entering the room.

Thus, this check valve, which is of the membrane type, reliably protects the ventilated room not only from polluted and cold air, but also from foreign odors.

1, average rating: 5,00 out of 5)

For automatic control different hydraulic systems are required electric valves. Finished goods quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

The most accessible valves from failed ones washing machines.

The coils of such devices are designed for a voltage of 220 volts AC, which limits their capabilities. Sometimes it is more convenient to control the valve with a low voltage voltage of 12 volts.

I needed such a device to regulate the interior heater mode of a VAZ car. Suitable valves from foreign cars are outrageously expensive, and with the increase in the exchange rate they even become a luxury item. Let's try to convert the solenoid valve from the washing machine to the on-board voltage of the car.

First, let's see how everything works.

We remove the coil by inserting a thin screwdriver into the gap between the solenoid and the housing. In this case, you can slightly squeeze the petals that secure the solenoid coil with pliers.

To operate at 12 volts, the valve solenoid (coil) must be replaced.

The most suitable solenoid was found in the EPPXX air valve of the VAZ 2105.

Since no images of the insides were found on the Internet, I will provide them for the curious.

Let's start disassembling

The simplest thing is to cut off the rolling using sandpaper or file it along the outer edge.
Valve cover (view from inside):

Stock, aka cork. The air flow is blocked rubber insert at the end. At the opposite end there is a recess for the spring:

A steel washer for closing the magnetic flux and a non-magnetic guide in which the rod moves:

Coil:
1. In the case.

2. Removed.

Oval O-rings seal the terminals from the inside of the housing. We will need one of them later, so save them.

And finally, the body from the inside. The end of the stationary magnetic circuit with a protrusion for the spring is visible:

Next, we finalize the body. Using sandpaper, we grind down a tube with a riveting on the back side, and placing the body bottom up, carefully knock out the remains of the internal magnetic circuit with a beard. If the body is dented inward, we eliminate the deformation. Next, drill out the central hole to a diameter of 9mm.

To create a magnetic system similar to the valve system from a washing machine, it is necessary to use tin from tin can cut two strips - one 15 mm wide, the other 10 mm. The length of the strips should be such that a ring of approximately 1.5 turns is wound on the body of the valve stem from the washing machine.

This system for auto-watering plants can be made by anyone without knowledge of electronics, and even without the ability to solder radio elements. The system uses ready-made devices that you simply need to connect in a certain sequence and enjoy the results of automatic watering.

This simple innovation can be assembled in no more than one hour, but for this you need to order or buy all the elements of the system.

Advantages of an automatic watering system

• - Simplicity, which means reliability.
• - Quite low cost in comparison with industrial analogues.
• - Isolated system with galvanic voltage isolation. That is, if water gets on the valve and you touch the hoses, an electric shock will not occur.
• - It is possible to power the entire system from 12 volts (and not from 220 V as now). And everything is powered autonomously from a battery. And charge the battery solar panels or a wind generator, but this is all in the future in my plans...

I used in the system solenoid valve. There are some advantages here:
- In the event of a sudden power outage, your area will not be flooded with water, since the valve will close, unlike an electromechanical one.
- Easy to control. There is voltage - the valve is open, no voltage - the valve is closed. It's simple. And you also need to be able to control electromechanical ones.

For the system to operate, you need: a free socket with a voltage of 220 V and running water.

Materials:

• Electronic timer -
• Solenoid valve -
• AC adapter for 12 V with a current of at least 0.5 A -
• Adapter from 1/2 thread to garden hose -
• Hose - adapter from the line to the valve - in a plumbing store.
• Crimp terminals -
• Double insulated wire for extending the valve circuit - any electrical store.
• Water sprinkler - either at a garden store.
• Garden hose - either in a garden store.

Solenoid valve 12 V.

All system components and necessary tools

Garden hose

Assembling a system for automatically watering plants according to a schedule

The operation of the system is as follows: that the timer is connected to a 220 V AC network. It controls the operation of the adapter included in it. And according to a given schedule, it turns on or off the power adapter, the load of which in turn is the solenoid valve. A central water supply is connected to the valve and as soon as the valve opens, all the pressure rushes into the garden hose and is sprayed through the sprayer onto the area. You can connect several more of these sprinklers via a tee if you need to water large area garden plot.

Now let's move on to the assembly

In fact, it consists of placing a valve between the soda hose and the water supply, connecting the power supply to the valve and plugging everything into the network. Everything is simple, without unnecessary hassle.
You can, of course, cut the wire from the adapter and immediately screw it to the valve, but I have a considerable distance from the valve and from the socket. Therefore, I will extend the 12 volt circuit.

I connect the wire to the power supply.
I connect the terminals to the second end and then connect it to the valve.

Then, I screw the adapter to the water supply.

I screw the adapter onto the garden hose to the second end.
It is advisable to provide an additional ball or valve valve between the valve and the water supply system so that the water supply system can be shut off in case of unforeseen circumstances.

As a result, it did not take much time and labor to assemble and configure. If, after reading this article, you also decided to build this miracle, then ready-made timers with built-in valves and self-powered, which I, of course, did not know about when I assembled the system.
Here they are. Powered by batteries.

But mine homemade system there are poles: you can control irrigation from the house, and not from the basement, where the timer is usually set.
Any of the presented systems has a drawback: the system still needs to be controlled, since if it rains heavily, it will still turn on and flood the beds even more.

The result of the automatic watering system

The system is simple, automatic, cheap, expandable, complementable. For example, you can add a pump to the system and not water the plants. tap water, but with rainwater from a barrel or other container.

The main thing in gardening is to ensure regular watering of the site. Without it, any garden will not survive even one season. Watering by hand requires a lot of time and labor. For nice garden needed modern system water supply, where important element is a solenoid valve for irrigation.

Advantages of automatic watering

The main elements of the irrigation system are as follows:

• water flow dosing;
• uniformity of application;
• efficiency (watering at night reduces moisture evaporation);
• the system is underground;
• saves labor and time for the gardener.

Purpose of the solenoid valve

An electromagnetic valve for irrigation is always needed, even if there is no irrigation system. It is used in conjunction with a timer that turns it on right time. It is especially needed to fill storage tank. When water is supplied according to the schedule, the timer opens the valve and the tank is filled. It is advisable to water the area at the same time. All this is done in the absence of the owner. All he has to do is water hard-to-reach places.

The main purpose of the valve is to supply water to the irrigation system at a given time. A 1-inch device is suitable for this, flowing 50-100 l/min at a pressure of up to 10 atm. It can also be used for short irrigation areas, as it allows you to adjust the required local flow rate. It is suitable for spray and drip irrigation when the pressure in the system is low.

One or more valves are installed on a drainage pad made of crushed stone and closed with a box. This can be done in any convenient place.

Solenoid valve design

The valve is very simple. It contains the following details.

The external thread of the inlet and outlet pipes is 1/4" or more depending on the fluid flow. The least amount of water passes through the solenoid valve for drip irrigation. Small-sized devices are built into a water pipeline and operate on a timer that sets different irrigation modes.

IN lately models combined with a switch appeared. You can purchase through the Yulmart online store: the solenoid valve for irrigation C 1060 plus GARDENA, which has become popular. It automatically switches the water supply to irrigate the garden.

Solenoid valve for irrigation: operation diagram

Connecting a solenoid valve to a garden watering system

For small garden A -12 volt solenoid valve for irrigation (NT8048) is better suited. It is safe because if water gets on the contacts or if you touch it with wet hands, there will be no electric shock. Possibility of connecting it to battery at 15 AH allows you to work without recharging for a week. It will also be easy to supply power from the shield via an AC adapter.

The water supply is provided from a storage tank installed at a height of at least 2 m. Water is drawn into it from centralized system. Filling is controlled by a float sensor connected to a plug valve. The absence of a pump eliminates many problems. Watering the garden by gravity occurs within a few hours and does not need to be controlled. All irrigation control will be taken over by an electronic timer connected to the outlet.

The valve is installed in the pressure line of the irrigation system. The electromagnet coil is connected to the output of the adapter via a cable using terminals. They can be sealed on top with sealant to protect them from water.

It is convenient to place the entire device in a utility room where you can install an outlet. A timer, adapter and electromagnet coil are connected in series to it. All that remains is to configure the watering mode. The time is chosen in the morning and evening so that there is a minimum of evaporation and the plants do not get sunburned. The duration of watering is set, which is then selected experimentally.

On different types Plant watering should be different. The system can be gradually improved by adding new valves. You can connect your own timer to each of them or install a common microcontroller, setting the watering program.

Valves from old washing machines can be installed on the outlet pipelines, which will allow you to save a lot on the cost of the irrigation system.

Do-it-yourself solenoid valve for watering

Electric valves are expensive, but cheaper solutions can be found. The most accessible one here is a valve from a broken washing machine. Its structure is as follows:

• plastic case;
• rubber membrane;
• electromagnet with core;
• spring;
• mesh filter;
• pad.

The mechanism is highly sensitive to dirt and can easily fail. It is protected, but for a garden system it is advisable to install another one at the valve inlet, since the own one will quickly clog.

The solenoid valve is normally closed, i.e. when turned off, it shuts off the water. When turned on, the core retracts, raising the rubber membrane, and allows water to pass through.

To remove contaminated washing liquid, a drain valve is used, which is designed in a similar way. Its operating principle is the same and it can be successfully used for irrigation.

Solenoid valves of washing machines have the following characteristics:

• supply voltage - ;
• power - 8 W;
• water pressure - up to 10 atm;
• inlet hose diameter - 3/4";
• fluid flow - 10 l/min.

Malfunctions and repairs

No voltage on the coil	1.Defective supply cable. 2. Coil malfunction.	1. Eliminate the break. 2. Check the integrity of the wire with a tester. A burnt coil usually cannot be repaired.
Valve does not operate when voltage is applied	1. The spring is broken. 2. Accumulation of dirt in the moving joint.	1. Replace the solenoid. 2. Disassemble and wash the structure.
Large pressure drop	1. The adjustable hole is clogged. 2. The coil parameters do not correspond to the applied voltage.	1. Clean. 2. Replace the coil.
Valve does not close	1. There is residual voltage on the coil. 2. The hole is dirty. 3. Valve seat contaminated. 4. Spring breakage.	1. Check relay contacts and electrical connections. 2. Clean. 3. Clean. 4. Replace.

Conclusion

Maintaining a garden takes a lot of time and effort. A real savior for the owner is the electromagnetic valve for irrigation, which serves to fill the storage tank in its absence, pump water from the well and especially in the irrigation system.

Summer is the best season for innocent water fun in the country house and surrounding areas. Why at the dachas? Because I wouldn't use this valve at home. What are we talking about?
Let's try to figure it out.
So, let's get started!

In fact, this part of automation is still completely unexplored for me,
however, I would like to find a budget option for experimentation. Fortunately, there is a dacha and often, for certain reasons, the possibility of my presence on it does not coincide with the desired water distribution schedule... What exactly is this for?
There are a lot of options - automatically distribute water to certain areas of the dacha, automatically fill an additional container (since the water supply is limited in time, and the water pressure does not allow you to do everything at once).

1/2 thread, no external casing, cast coil, metal mesh at the inlet to the valve, water supply arrow (input-output) on the body, operating principle - membrane, under the action of a spring, closing the valve. The valve is normally closed.

The seller sends with a track that is absolutely not tracked.

Seller details:

Data from device:

I want to say right away that the seller’s data does not coincide with reality, although the data on the nameplate is more reliable (except for zero pressure).

Firstly, and this is the most main factor- for systems with low pressure the valve WILL NOT work! He needs support to open the membrane.
Secondly, the current consumed by the coil is 2! (TWO) times more - 430 mA, and during prolonged operation, it heats up significantly. True, the valve begins to open around 7-8 V.

Now let's start preparing the patient:

We unscrew the 4 screws and see: a whole cast plastic frame, a rubber valve, a cylindrical flask containing a metal core and a spring that supports the valve in a closed state. On the left in the photo is the water inlet, on the right is the outlet.
As you can see, there is a threat of leakage and there is a threat of failure due to the core and spring not being protected from rust.

PROS: simplicity of design, low cost.
CONS: plastic thread and housing, high current consumption, lack of additional sealant other than a rubber membrane, impossibility of use in systems with low pressure.

It remains to test it in combat conditions.

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