Hello everyone, I present to your attention a razor-sharp knife made from a quick cutter R6M5, which you can make with your own hands. This steel is actively used in the manufacture of various cutting tool, including tools for metalworking. It is used to make drills, various cutters, saw blades and so on.

This steel is quite durable and is enough for long-term heavy work. This steel does not lose its strength even at high temperature loads. The only drawback of this metal is that it is very difficult to harden it with your own hands. Hardening requires repeated heating, tempering, and special chemicals, for example, saltpeter, for cooling. But if you process the metal carefully, without overheating, then you won’t need to harden it. So, let's look in more detail at how to make a knife from R6M5 steel.

Materials and tools used by the author:

List of materials:
- steel R6M5 (hacksaw blade);
- a piece of wood for the handle;
- epoxy glue;
- a piece of brass for the handle;
- oil or varnish for impregnating the handle.

List of tools:
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- sharpening machine;
- orbital sander or machine;
- drill;
- a clamp (the author’s homemade one is made from wood);
- marker;
- sandpaper;
- jigsaw.

Knife making process:

Step one. Cutting out the main profile
First we need to figure out what our knife will look like. Draw the profile of the knife on the workpiece using a marker. Well, then you can start cutting. We cut the workpiece using a grinder, but when cutting P6M5 there is one nuance. This steel is quite brittle and breaks when subjected to strong bending. All we need to do is make small cuts with a grinder in the areas that we need to remove. Well, then we break them off with pliers, like glass.

Step two. Finalizing the profile
Now our rough profile needs to be finalized. For this we need a sharpening machine. We just go along the contour and remove excess metal. This metal grinds down quite easily. We process the shank in the same way; you can make small grooves on it so that the handle sticks well to it.

Step three. Bevels and sanding
We form bevels on the blade. For these purposes, the author adapted the sharpening machine sandpaper circle. The blade must be secured in special device, which can be made from a corner. Well, then we slowly and slowly form the bevels. Try not to overheat the metal, as the carbon may burn out and the steel will no longer be as hard as it was originally. Periodically dip the blade in water
We make symmetrical bevels on both sides or only on one as desired. At the same step, you can carry out the initial sharpening of the blade.

Then you can start grinding, we work on the same machine. We sand the metal until all paint, rust, etc. are removed. If the source material is of high quality, it can be brought to a mirror shine.

The final processing is carried out manually using fine sandpaper, soaked in water. Well, at the very end, the blade can be polished on a machine using GOI paste or another paste.

Step four. Brass insert
There is a brass insert at the front of the handle. We select the desired piece of brass and drill a series of holes in it. Then these holes are bored out with a flat file so that the shank of the blade can fit in. At the same step, you can immediately give the workpiece oval shape on the grindstone. The author immediately polished the part on the machine, since this would be much more difficult to do later.

Step five. Blank for handle
The author makes the handle from a piece of a branch; it is important that the material is dry. Drill a hole in the wood for the shank. The author drilled it so that back side The handles turned out to be a beautiful pattern in the form of rings. For convenience, the workpiece can be made rectangular on a circular saw.

Now you can glue the workpiece; to do this, dilute epoxy glue, carefully hammer the shank into the wood using the glue, not forgetting to put on the brass insert. Next, the entire structure needs to be tightened with a clamp. The author has a homemade clamp, made from three blocks, as well as threaded rods and washers. We leave the whole thing to dry, the epoxy is guaranteed to dry in at least 24 hours.

Step six. Final modification of the knife
When the glue dries, we take out our knife and draw the desired handle profile with a pencil. Next, we cut off the excess with a jigsaw; the fastest way to do this is with a jigsaw. We grind the handle to obtain the desired profile, rough processing can be done on a sharpening machine or grinding machine. Well, we carry out finer processing manually using sandpaper. Making the handle absolutely smooth.

When the handle is finished, we saturate it with oil, and to add color, you can apply stain. The handle can also be polished beeswax, then she will look great. The author's pen turned out to have a rather interesting shape with beautiful pattern.

That's all, the knife is ready, now all you have to do is sharpen it to the point of a blade. The author's knife is so sharp that it easily cuts paper.

I hope you liked the project and found something for yourself useful information. Good luck and creative inspiration if you want to repeat it

My father gave me such a gift, or rather, I bought it for 10 iron rubles, a bargain.

At first I was skeptical about the idea of ​​​​making this knife, but when I picked it up finished product, then I realized that it was mine. The handle is made of ash and lies comfortably in the hand. The knife turned out to be very light, the hand does not get tired when working. Blade length 14 cm, handle 11.5 cm.
The knife required some modifications. First, the wood had to be treated. I entrusted this to my friend, a passionate lover of knives, Kosatom. The handle was treated with shelf oil and stained. I was pleased with the work of the master, for which I thank him very much. I started to like the knife more and more.

The next step is to dress him. The sheath was made for me by the “old” taiga resident, laichnik and just a great person, Alexander Bolotsky, for which I also thank him very much. The sheath is made of wood, covered with leather. The knife fits tightly, it will never fall out of them. Tested on personal experience. All my knives have sheaths made by him.
The color of the leather is matched to the handle.

The last stage, sharpening. It was made by the author of the knife and here I am the happy owner homemade knife from "quick cutter". Dad immediately warned me that the metal is fragile, but it should hold an edge well.
A ten-day trip to the north of the region was planned ahead, a good reason to test it.

During the trip I only used this knife, and only took out “Mora” once. In the kitchen he was the duty knife, and he coped with all the camp chores with flying colors. I cut and cleaned fish, chopped branches for bedding, and opened stewed fish without any problems. In general, he was an irreplaceable assistant. I haven’t cut up carcasses with it yet, but it has proven to be a good “camp” knife.
Upon arrival, I decided to test its cutting properties after 10 days of intensive use.
I cooked a couple of dishes at home using this knife.
The meat had to be cut into thin steaks for baking and goulash. These pieces are best obtained when the meat is slightly frozen. I decided to complicate it, the meat was completely thawed. The knife coped with the task perfectly.

Next, I chopped the onion into half rings. It turned out like I was a chef from a cooking show. I had the feeling that I was working not with a knife, but with a sharp razor.

Next on the list were tomatoes. It was autumn, the tomatoes from the dacha, while they were ripening, lost their former elasticity. Good check for a knife. Slicing into thin rings. Again I rate the work a 5.

One of the popular materials used for making knives is alloy steel. high-speed(abbreviated as quick cutter).

Considering characteristics high-speed steels, it should be noted:

• high heat resistance at temperatures below 600 0 C;
• high hardness up to 70HRC;
• increased wear resistance at high temperatures;
• resistance to deformation (fracture).

High-speed steel of different grades for hunting knives

The hunter's indispensable tools, applicable for protection from animal attacks, skinning during butchering, and making a path in the wild forest, are hunting knives. The length, shape of the blade, as well as the material for these knives depend not only on the type of hunting, but also on individual preferences. The most common are high speed steel knives P18.

Steel P18 - tool high-speed, where R stands for tungsten, and 18 - percentage tungsten in steel. It is used for the manufacture of tools that retain their properties when heated during operation up to 600 0 C and blades hunting knives. Models of knives Bison, Varan, Hussar, Mongoose are produced with blades made from high-speed steel P18, hardness 64 HRC. Blade length - 145mm, spine thickness - 4mm. The handle is made of various materials- wenge ebony, ebonite, leather.

Popular and quick cut steel knives P12, they are easy to grind, have excellent cutting properties due to the ductility and increased toughness of the steel, these include:

• hunting knives Berkut models, from quick cutter P12, have a blade length of 155mm, thickness 4mm, the handle is made of black hornbeam with indentations for fingers;
• knife East, steelР12М, hardness 67 HRC, blade length 155mm, spine thickness 3.2mm, handle made of hornbeam;
• knife Beaver, steel R12M, blade length 135mm, spine thickness 4mm, handle made of wenge, blade shape with a lowered tip suitable for cutting carcasses and making skinning easier.

Hunting knives with blades from a quick cutterР6М5 have high hardness 67-68 HRC, increased viscosity, cutting edge knife It holds its edge for a long time and does not need to be edited. Popular models:

• hunting knife Zimardak - blade length 120mm; Hunter knife - blade 109mm long;
• Oksky knife - blade 147mm long;
• Bison knife - blade 180 - 190mm long, spine thickness 3-5mm, handles made of hard African bubinga, burl, walnut, black hornbeam, wenge wood and cupronickel.

Knives steel P18 Compared to knives, R6M5 steel has greater hardness, superior cutting properties and holds an edge longer, but has lower toughness and strength.

Basic models of folding knives

Folding knives are practical and convenient, you can always take them with you, placing them in almost any pocket. Such knives perform a variety of functions and differ in the following types:

• classic folding knives with a hollow handle without a locking mechanism;
• folding knives with a locking mechanism, open with two hands, are inconvenient in extreme situations;
• tactical knives open easily and quickly, which is why they can pose a danger to the owner;
• automatic folding knives open by pressing a button or lever, are compact and easy to use, and have a high cost.

Folding knives made of quick cutters They are in no way inferior to hunting ones in quality.

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