Alexanderishenko 20-07-2014 18:57

Good evening everyone!
Made it for myself taiga ax. During processing, the original coating was naturally removed. Became brilliant. But at the same time, it immediately rusts in a humid environment.
I saw axes forged from carbon with some kind of dark gray coating. How can this be achieved at home (garage)? How can you protect an ax from corrosion? And even after just lying in the garage, after a while it becomes covered with a fine red coating

Vova_N 20-07-2014 19:01

Etch in ferric chloride, iron sulfate, in some acid.

Alexanderishenko 20-07-2014 19:02

quote: Originally posted by Vova_N:
Etch in ferric chloride, iron sulfate, or some acid.

Covered with ferric chloride. At first it seemed to work out. But a day later I came to the garage and saw that the whole ax had turned red)) maybe I did something wrong? How to do this correctly?

Pavel Bykov 74 20-07-2014 19:13

Try phosphoric acid...

Alexanderishenko 20-07-2014 20:10

quote: Originally posted by Pavel Bykov 74:
Try phosphoric acid...

What will it give and how to use it correctly? What about ferric chloride? How does it actually work?

Mr Draibalit 20-07-2014 20:24

There is sufficient phosphoric acid in Coca-Cola. That is, degrease it, put it in cola overnight and you will be happy))) and it’s not difficult to renew.

Nosych 20-07-2014 21:08

I’ve already asked this question here, I’ll ask again since the topic came up: I etched it in an orthophosphoric solution kitchen knife from a quick cutter, at first it was uniformly gray, but within six months it turned black (but did not rust). How to stop this process?

Mr Draibalit 20-07-2014 21:22

If I'm not mistaken, phosphate coatings have a finely porous structure (phosphating is one of the options for preparing metals before painting), try soaking a fresh coating vegetable oil This will probably keep the color even.

Lesnoi 94 20-07-2014 23:56

I made myself a taiga axe.

and show?

Svyatoy 21-07-2014 12:41

After treatment in acid, do not forget to lower it into a soda solution. as an option, use the “clover” bluing solution (if I’m not mistaken)

bodygard 21-07-2014 07:58

quote: "clover" (if I'm not mistaken)

clover, if my memory serves me correctly, is not good for health, so you can’t chop meat and other food products with such an ax...

russian-hunter- 21-07-2014 08:24

quote: Originally posted by Lesnoi 94:

and show?

serge-vv 21-07-2014 09:25

after the cold, you don’t need soda, but ammonia. It is best to use a 10% nitrogen solution, then rinse thoroughly (or in a soda solution), and spread with oil. Personally, I did this.

author-1 21-07-2014 11:38

Question on topic. And if you just paint it (I see Swedish army axes are all painted green).... But with what? The first thing that comes to mind is Kuzbasslak, but it seems to be for short-term (up to 6 months) storage http://www.kraska-sale.ru/lak_bt-577.html

Nosych 21-07-2014 15:37

quote: Originally posted by MrDraibalit:
... try saturating the fresh coating with vegetable oil, this may help maintain an even color.

What does “impregnate with oil” mean? How long does it take to saturate a thin oxide film? Apply and wipe or leave overnight? Or in the sun to polarize the vegetable oil? I’m asking seriously because I’m interested not only in “what to do,” but in the operating principle of the chosen method. Why vegetable oil?

Alexanderishenko 21-07-2014 21:01

quote: Originally posted by russian-hunter-:

And after the cold treatment, be sure to rinse with soda. And after thoroughly drying, lubricate with oil.

Svyatoy 21-07-2014 22:02

quote: Originally posted by Nosych:

operating principle of the chosen method

I'll tell you my guesses. oil to squeeze out the water. vegetable or food. I'm sure lard will work too)

quote: Originally posted by Alexanderishenko:

How to properly process cold?

dip into solution

quote: Originally posted by bodigard:

clover, if my memory serves me correctly, is not good for health

baking soda neutralizes acid residues on the surface. wipe after the whole process after drying

Alexanderishenko 22-07-2014 07:39

quote: Originally posted by Svyatoy:

I don’t know, I saw how the famous Damascus people are poisoning them.
baking soda neutralizes acid residues on the surface. wipe after the whole process after drying

What concentration should be of ferric chloride? How long should an ax remain in the solution? Is it possible to simply wipe it with a dampened swab to achieve results?

bodygard 22-07-2014 08:22

quote: I don’t know, I saw how the famous Damascus people are poisoning them.

Well, I also bought it for what I sold it for. Here a few years ago there was a discussion about what to poison, and they agreed that after clover some kind of blight is formed, which upon contact with food products“not very useful” for the body, therefore, if the knife is on the shelf, then why not, but if it’s not worth it...

and for the axe, I etched it with what I had on hand, be it CJ, or orthophosphorus, or just in Sprite-Coca-Cola until it had an even dark gray color, then rinsed it thoroughly in a soda solution, then just in water to remove the soda, then heated it where - up to 140-160, so that all the water evaporates, and straight to the hot generously linseed oil, well, I left it in the sun for another week

not a panacea, of course, but it should stop frankly rusting in the air after this

sorry for the many bugs

bodygard 22-07-2014 08:39

quote: I’m asking seriously because I’m interested not only in “what to do,” but in the operating principle of the chosen method. Why vegetable oil?

after etching, a “loose sponge” is formed on the surface of the metal; after washing with passion in a soda solution, the “looseness” is washed off and just a sponge remains, and we saturate this relatively strong “sponge” with oil

something like this

Nosych 22-07-2014 10:17

We saturate this relatively durable “sponge” with oil.

And how long does the oil stay there? How often do you renew the impregnation?

bodygard 22-07-2014 10:30

quote: And how long does the oil stay there? How often do you renew the impregnation?

and this depends on the oil, if the oil polymerizes, like flaxseed, for example, then it will come off along with the “sponge” ...

Nosych 22-07-2014 15:58

quote: Originally posted by bodigard:

and this depends on the oil, if the oil polymerizes, like flaxseed, for example, then it will come off along with the “sponge” ...

Thanks for the science!

Very necessary thing on the farm, they can chop wood, meat, protect themselves from enemies, and also perform many construction jobs. is the oldest and most useful tool, which was once invented by a man.
Usually axes last quite a long time if they are handled with care, but one way or another, time takes its toll and the ax fails. The most common reason breakdowns - failure of the ax handle, since it is made of wood. And the ax itself begins to rust over time, it develops jagged edges, cracks, and so on.

In this instruction we will look at how to restore an old ax with your own hands. We will learn how to make an ax handle, install it on an ax, and so on. In this way, you can restore not only axes, but also wood splitting axes.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- old axe;
- wood board(oak, ash, maple, birch, etc.)
- epoxy glue with dye (optional);
- stain, oil (etc. for processing the ax handle).

List of tools:
-, jigsaw (or similar);
- plane;
- sandpaper of different grain sizes;
- vice;
- grinder with grinding attachments;
- ruler;
- pencil and marker.

Ax restoration process:

Step one. Choosing wood for an ax
The ax handle can be made from various types of wood, it could be maple, oak, beech, linden or even birch. Of course, the advantages remain with hard rocks; such axes serve for many years and also look great. But they also have disadvantages, axes made of hard rocks They are often fragile and the ax handle breaks in half if the force is not calculated.

As for soft woods, for example, such as linden or birch, axes are also actively made from them. Although they do not last long, they are very easy to make; you can even use hand tools.

The best option is maple. This wood is strong and also has some “springiness”, which allows the ax handle not to break. Hazelnut is also perfect; breaking such an ax handle will be extremely problematic. In addition, these types of wood have excellent appearance.

Step two. Grinding an ax
Let's start by preparing the axe, that is, its metal part. Time takes its toll and shells, rust, chips and other defects may appear on the metal. Sometimes an ax can easily crack, then it can be welded with a large electrode with an increased current so that the metal melts well.

The author carefully polishes the surface using a grinder. As a result, the ax turns out almost smooth and shiny. Also, don't forget to trim and sharpen the blade. Although it is better to do a full sharpening at the very end, so as not to cut yourself with an ax while working.

Step three. Draw the profile of the ax and cut it out
A wood board or timber is suitable for making an axe. suitable thickness. The author draws the ax handle by eye; he already has a trained eye for this matter. The ax handle doesn’t have to be the same as everyone else’s, use your imagination, imagine which handle your ax would be comfortable with and draw.

The only thing the author measures when applying the profile is the length of the handle. The longer the handle, the more you can swing and hit the stump. Moreover, the farther the place of impact is from you, the safer it is.

First we draw carefully with a pencil so that we can correct it, and then we draw the outline with a marker.

Step four. Leveling the plane
If it turns out that the cut ax handle has a curvature, it needs to be straightened. For these purposes, the author works with a plane.

Step five. Forming the side that is inserted into the ax
We clamp the ax handle in a vice in a vertical position. We apply an ax to the end and outline the inside with a pencil. As a result, we get a profile that needs to be manufactured. The author forms it using a tape cutting machine, this is the simplest option. If you work the old fashioned way, then you can cope with this task using sharp knife for woodworking. The length of this part is made by the author so that it does not go into the ax all the way.

Finally, there is manual processing, here you will need a rasp. With its help we perfectly adjust the ax handle to the ax. The ax handle should fit as tightly as possible, without gaps, then the ax will not become loose and will serve for a long time.

Step six. Forming the finished profile of the ax handle
Using knives, a plane and other tools, form the desired shape of the handle, smooth out the corners so that the ax is comfortable to hold in your hands.

You also need to cut a slot in the ax handle for the wedge. This can be done using regular hacksaw on metal, holding the ax handle in a vice. To avoid damaging the wood with a vice, wrap a rag around the ax handle.

Step seven. Fine processing of the ax
This step is not at all necessary, it is needed if you want your ax to look perfect. Take sandpaper and thoroughly sand the ax handle until smooth. Next you will need a stain if you want to add color to the ax handle. Instead of stain, you can use special wood oil.

Apply the dye, wait until it dries, and then use a fine sandpaper Grind the ax handle again. This approach can lighten the wood a little.

Step eight. Collecting an ax
Now all you have to do is attach the ax to the ax handle. Carefully examine the hole in the axe; it is often made in the shape of a cone. This is necessary so that the ax handle holds securely after wedging. Such an ax should be installed on the ax handle with the wider part facing up.

Good ax handle should fit into the ax with a minimum gap, as a result, after wedging it turns out very reliable fastening. The author ended up with a very large gap between the ax handle and the axe; in the end, it was decided to hammer in a couple more wedges on one side. This is a bad approach and you won’t work with such an ax for a long time; it’s only suitable for an exhibition.

If you want to secure the ax handle as securely as possible, apply PVA glue to it before installation, or better yet, epoxy glue.

After assembling the ax, the author decided to fill the place where the wedge is driven in from above, epoxy resin. I couldn’t understand the meaning of this action; it was more an aesthetic moment than a practical one. We dilute the epoxy glue with the hardener using a scale, and then add liquid dye of the desired color.

Step nine. Final processing
This step is also optional, but useful. As we know, wood absorbs moisture well, but it quite actively destroys it. However, many of us dipped the ax into water so that the wood would become saturated with moisture, swell, and the ax handle would be securely fixed in the axe. But if the ax handle is of high quality, then this will not be needed.

An ax is one of the tools you need to have on the farm. Of course, you can buy it in a store, but if you want to have a reliable and convenient thing, it is better to make a tool yourself. The article will talk about how to make an ax handle at home with your own with skillful hands and install the metal blade correctly.

How to select and prepare wood

An ax handle is the handle of a working tool. Labor productivity completely depends on how easy it is to work with it. Therefore, a regular straight stick will not work in this case. A real ax handle is a curved beam with an oval cross-section and straight sections. The tail part should be widened and bent downwards. Only with this option the hand of the person performing the work will be able to reliably hold the tool without experiencing fatigue for a long time.

The following types of wood are best suited for making an ax:

• maple;
• birch;
• acacia;
• ash.

Wood should be harvested in the fall. For carpentry tools Birch is perfect, but for the hiking option, maple is more often used. Its impact strength is less than that of birch. Ideal option Ash is considered to be very durable and rarely changes shape. It is better to make an ax handle from a section of wood located near the root, and the workpiece should be 15 cm wider and longer than the future product.

Attention! Before the prepared beams are used to make an ax handle, they must dry for at least a year in a dry, dark place, for example, in the attic. This is necessary so that when finished, the handle does not shrink and start to dangle in the eyelet.

Fresh wood can only be used if the ax handle breaks, as a temporary option that needs to be replaced quickly.

How to make an ax handle

In order to make an ax handle you will need:

• wooden blank;
• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• pencil;
• file;
• hammer.

The manufacturing process itself takes place in the following order:

Attention! You need to make the ax handle so that the cross-section is oval. In this case, it will be possible to hold it without particularly straining your hand and make very accurate blows.

Impregnation of the ax handle and ax attachment

The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent composition. There are two options:

• drying oil;
• linseed oil;
• ski resin.

Lubricate the wood with the chosen product and leave it until it dries. The treatment is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin can penetrate deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find in stores. Therefore, the first two options are often used.

Advice. You can add a bright dye to the impregnation agent. This way it will be difficult to lose the finished tool.

The ax attachment to the handle is done as follows:

Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing technique. Making an ax handle with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, if you have the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a high-quality tool.

How to make an ax handle: video

uor 07-10-2010 21:47

I present to the public the method of processing an ax handle, that is, an ax handle. This method was shown by my grandfather. The salt is in the finishing touches. After giving the ax handle the desired shape, the striking part of the ax is placed on the ax handle from below.
Finishing ax handling occurs as follows.
Take glass that is even for windows (not bottle glass), break it, take a shard of glass, and with this shard, at an angle of about 90 - 130 degrees (selected depending on the topography of the handle), sand the ax handle. This removes very fine chips. Of course, it may not look as beautiful as if it had been sanded, but the grip becomes very reliable. Ax handles treated in this way do not change for 5-8 years (I mean daily use in rural conditions, where you need to chop wood every day). From experience I can say that an ax handle made using this method feels like bone over time.
And what’s most amazing is that it doesn’t rot!!! Infection!
How do you think the handle of a knife made in a similar way will behave?

motiv4k 07-10-2010 22:21

M0squit0 07-10-2010 22:39

Hewn wood actually rots less than sanded or simply sawn wood, due to the fact that with such processing the pores seem to be clogged, and the wood is less susceptible to moisture. Although with frequent use, the pores will become clogged with grease and dirt.

clockmaker 07-10-2010 23:34

I saw how shovels were processed in a similar way.

rm129 08-10-2010 12:19

Glass abrasion came from the distant past and is widespread almost throughout the planet... the ancestors sanded wood with obsidian fragments... there was simply no sandpaper... the wooden handle of any tool lives as long as that tool is used... it’s worth throwing it away as (be it sanded with glass or sandpaper) cracks, rots, cracks...etc. But as for axes, that’s a separate issue... on the handles of axes there was always choice strong tree... so they live longer... IMHO (I wrote something at length... apparently I’m longing for a tool)

kU 08-10-2010 12:21

scraping is a surface treatment method used by humans since the Stone Age. "V rural areas" is popular for a simple reason: you still have to look for sandpaper (and a century ago there was none at all), but a piece of glass - here it is.

uor 08-10-2010 12:22

on the ax handle there is usually a straight layer, well, in extreme cases, the butt part of the trunk and you can actually sand it with glass to give it “smoothness”; if it doesn’t rot, then it is far-fetched, it rots and cracks like any other wood, try “sanding” a maple burl in this way or suvel and birch burl on the figured handle of a knife and you will understand why they don’t use it

I forgot to say that for handles they use: beech, oak, hornbeam, sometimes, very rarely walnut. No matter what anyone says, the handles really do last a very long time.

amaru 08-10-2010 12:30

Cycles are still used today, and not only in the countryside, mainly by carvers and cabinetmakers.

uor 08-10-2010 12:34

And yet, how do you look at the dressing of knife handles (for example, dates) in this way?

Kuzya 08-10-2010 03:09

A knife is more durable than an ax
They often bring knives with a request to replace the handle with something more noble.
Well, no ice for people, plexiglass

Here from the same opera.
Previously, they made it out of whatever they had.
Why now...
NII I understand

PySy: Some stocks are polished with a glass rod.

AIS1947 08-10-2010 09:38

quote: scraping - for a simple reason: you still have to look for sandpaper (and a century ago there was none at all), but a piece of glass - here it is.

Absolute truth. All this comes from “poverty”. There is no “know how” here.
And the reason for the durability of the handles is the thoroughness of processing, when scuffing is minimized and the pores are “sealed.” Certainly. IMHO.