View ice saw drawings. Features of ice saws and their choice

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Homemade saw for ice.

You can immediately buy a normal Finnish ice saw (2200-2500 rubles here or here) and don’t worry about it. But if your “hands itch” you can do it and from scrap materials.

For this you will need:

1. Actually two-handed saw(tool store - 230 rubles)

2. Plastic pipe for sewerage with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 1 m. (everywhere 79r)

3. D6 bolt, 50mm long, and nut.

The handles of the saw are removed from the wood and the loop is removed from one side (the rivets can be drilled out, but it is better to cut them with a grinder).

The hole closest to the back side is drilled out to a diameter of 6 mm (for a bolt).

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Then we make a cut in the future handle. The fresh blade of the metal hacksaw, which can be held simply in the hand, cuts PVC very well.

At first, one cut is made, but this is not enough, because... the pipe will “roll inward.” To get a gap with a width of 5 mm you need do another cut, choosing 1-1.5 cm.

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When assembled, the saw teeth go into the slot on the handle:

(Due to the “arched” shape of the working part of the saw, the pipe must bend slightly in order to properly cover the teeth along its entire length)

On both sides of the saw (in the holes from the loop and on the other side in the loop itself), 2 ropes are tied so that the pipe does not fly off the teeth.

Then you need to spread the saw teeth (the wider the better). This is done with a file (be careful not to cut yourself)!

(We place a triangular file between the teeth and “separate” the teeth in pairs into different sides. Then we turn the saw over with the other end and do the same thing - so the impact on each tooth will be on both sides.)

The results of full-scale tests showed that, in comparison with the Finnish ice plow, our “self-propelled” saws are of course lousy (subjectively 1.5-2 times slower). However, the efficiency is quite sufficient for normal sawing and the device bites into the ice quite decently. In general, the thing turned out to be quite suitable for use (for your money).

An ice saw can be used in a variety of situations. For example, many fishermen use this tool to saw holes or holes large area for the use of fixed networks. Often a saw for cutting ice is used by emergency workers and scuba divers.

This tool finds another application during extreme travel; for example, such a saw will help free a car from ice captivity.

Features of the chainsaw

The operation of this equipment has its own characteristics. For example, the uninterrupted operation of a chainsaw is ensured by an air injection system. This also increases the service life of the tool, since the saw wears out much more slowly. The shape of the device itself is quite convenient, so the cutting process is quite easy and fast. For heavy loads, the installation requires a three-section crankshaft. Ice can be cut with any chainsaw, but in each case the rule must be followed - do not use oil.

The fact is that in other situations it reduces friction and prevents overheating, but when working with ice it is not necessary.

How to choose?

When choosing a saw for cutting ice, you should familiarize yourself with various options household saws, since each of them is designed to work a certain volume, differs in its advantages and disadvantages. To cut ice sheets, you can use several types of saws.

Handmade Finnish. The advantages of this specimen include lightness. Ice masses up to one meter thick can be cut. Among the disadvantages it is worth noting low speed work, when compared with gas-powered tools. But if you compare the speed of working on metal or wood, then such a saw will cope with ice much faster. As well as Finnish hand saws, which are recommended for cutting out wormwood or myna, can be divided according to the following criteria:
1. a tool with a wooden handle is an environmentally friendly accessory, it fits well in the hand and is easy to work with;
2. saw with a metal handle - compared to the above option, this is a more durable variety.

Chainsaw. This is a fairly convenient option for work. It is easy and quick to saw a hole in the ice, but this variety has the following disadvantages:
1. it is possible to work only with a thickness of no more than 37 cm;
2. during the cutting process, a lot of ice splashes fall on the saw, which can cause the tool to ice up and cause it to malfunction;
3. This weapon is quite massive.

Model rating

For ice masses of short length, a standard household chainsaw, and for larger volumes of work you should choose a professional tool. It is worth considering the most popular models.

Stihl MS 661. This unit has a power of 7.3 liters. s., and this is quite enough for cutting ice. Base tire – 71 cm.

Chainsaw Stihl MS 880. It is recommended for a thickness of 90 cm. This is the most powerful model. If this length is not enough, then it is allowed to install more long tire– Rollomatic ES 0.404″, but judging by the reviews of experts, it is quite difficult to find such a tire.

Husqvarna 395 XP. The length of the tire is 106 cm. According to professionals, this is a very convenient, powerful and productive unit.

) and doesn't bother. But if your “hands are itching,” you can make it from scrap materials.

For this you will need:

1. Actually a two-handed saw (tool store - 230 rubles)

2. Plastic pipe for sewerage with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 1 m. (everywhere 79r)

3. D6 bolt 50mm long and nut.

The wooden handles of the saw are removed and the loop is removed from one side (the rivets can be drilled out, but it is better to cut them off with a grinder).

The hole closest to the back side is drilled out to a diameter of 6mm (for a bolt).

Then we make a cut in the future handle. The fresh blade of a metal hacksaw, which can be held simply in the hand, cuts PVC very well.

First, one cut is made, but this is not enough, because the pipe will "roll inward". To get a gap with a width of 5 mm, you need to make another cut, thereby choosing 1-1.5 cm.

(Note the difference between the selected strip and the resulting gap.)

Then we attach the handle and drill through the pipe (getting into the drilled hole left after the loop). In this case, you need to press the future handle as tightly as possible to the back of the saw:

Then insert the bolt and tighten the nut (it is better to use a wing). If everything is done correctly, the fastening should be quite rigid.

When assembled, the saw teeth go into the slot on the handle:

(Due to the “arc-shaped” shape of the working part of the saw, the pipe must bend slightly in order to properly cover the teeth along its entire length)

On both sides of the saw (in the holes from the loop and on the other side in the loop itself), 2 ropes are tied so that the pipe does not fly off the teeth.

Then you need to spread the saw teeth (the wider the better). This is done with a file (be careful not to cut yourself)!

(We place a triangular file between the teeth and “spread” the teeth in pairs in different directions. Then we turn the saw over with the other end and do the same thing - so each tooth will be affected from both sides.)

Efficiency.

Addition: apparently due to the fact that we moved the saw crookedly (the teeth were bent more to one side), it began to cut not along a line but in an arc (which is quite inconvenient). IN next year(when there is ice) we will try to spread the teeth more symmetrically - we hope this will correct the situation.