Designs of smoke circulations and the movement of flue gases.

We will not dwell on the theory of the movement of flue gases in furnaces, but only briefly describe some useful information that a novice stove-maker needs to know about. After all, we are not going to lay out our own design of the furnace. This is fraught with many errors that can make your oven inoperable. But when using ready-made and time-tested oven drawings this information may be useful to you.

So, the firebox. What is important to know about it? The combustion of fuel takes place in the firebox and its walls take most of the heat load. All the heat that is released during combustion is distributed as follows: part of the heat goes to the formation of draft, the other part accumulates in the walls of the firebox itself, and part of the heat from the burnt fuel accumulates in the walls of the channels through which the flue gases pass. The more such channels, the more heat remains in kiln array, but, in fact, the less heat remains for the formation of the thrust itself.

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In some cases, when arranging heating units, it becomes necessary to install a horizontal chimney. There are several options for implementing this process: both simple and quite complex.

Horizontal chimneys are sections of the combustion products removal system, located parallel to the floor and passing between the heater and the roof outlet. There are 3 types of such structures:

1. A branch from vertical lines, which in their length should not exceed 1 m.
2. A full-fledged chimney with the presence of minimal vertical sections and a conclusion through the wall to the street. Such systems are used when the gas boiler is located close to the outer walls of the building and the installation of a vertical chimney through the ceiling is impractical. In addition, the design is necessary if it is not possible to equip a chimney in a room with a heating unit and it is necessary to carry out an output to neighboring rooms.
3. Furnace heating of the house involves heating the air due to the bricks heated during the heating process. Direct chimney will contribute to their rapid cooling. To increase the area with heat transfer and high safety of hot air, structures in the form of a snake are built.

Requirements for horizontal chimneys

The main condition for the functioning of any chimney is the presence of natural draft. To ensure it, the maximum length of horizontal sections in the entire system should not exceed 100 cm.

If there are several turns, as in the "snake" chimneys, there is a high probability of the formation of swirls and soot settling. To eliminate such shortcomings, the surface inside the system must be completely smooth, the corners are not pointed. The requirements also include the obligation to have the same section along the entire length of the structure.

Due to the difficult operating conditions, the chimney must withstand the effects of acids, condensate, mechanical stress and high temperatures, and maintain tightness for the longest possible time.

Pros and cons

The most important advantage of horizontal chimneys is the increase in heat transfer. This is especially important for stove heating or when the heaters are not powerful enough.

The negative side of the design is that the pipes of the horizontal section become clogged with soot faster, turbulence occurs if installed incorrectly, and the installation process itself is often difficult.

Whirlwinds can reduce traction. To eliminate them, the corners inside the structure are rounded off.

Rules for the installation work

Features and installation technology of a horizontal chimney allows you to do all the work yourself with basic knowledge and skills.

If we are talking about boilers with a special turbine, then everything is simple: a coaxial chimney is installed. In other cases, the horizontal section of the chimney must support natural draft. Therefore, the installation of "snake" systems is carried out strictly in accordance with the technological requirements. The design consists of several turns, in which horizontal sections alternate with short vertical ones, ensuring the complete removal of combustion products.

Refractory bricks are used for the construction. At the same time, to organize a rotary channel, it must be cut in half. The main thing at each stage is to control the preservation of the same cross section of the air channel. The structure is built in sections. Details that will be located in the places of inversion of the air flow are rounded off by cutting and grinding corners.

At each stage of laying the rows, it is necessary to distribute the solution so that tightness is ensured. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of metal doors or knockout bricks.

Basic withdrawal methods

The layout of the pipe should be based on the output method:

1. A coaxial system is removed through the wall, followed by insulation and sealing of the pipe location.
2. When withdrawing through ceilings and roofing, a “snake” chimney is advisable. At the same time, the height of the structure is calculated so as to provide traction and eliminate turbulence (mounting methods recommend 4-6 turns).

Service

Any chimney is prone to clogging with combustion products such as soot and soot. Therefore, in addition to the external aesthetic finish, it needs constant cleaning. If a standard vertical chimney is easy to get rid of blockage, then horizontal shafts must be cleaned separately.

In the case of coaxial systems, cleaning work does not take much time and effort, because. the structure is made of stainless steel, and a strong air flow that pushes out the products of combustion prevents soot and soot from settling on the walls of the structure. To enhance the effect, chimneys are installed at a slight angle to the horizontal plane.

In brick systems of horizontal “snake” chimneys, in order to ensure the cleaning of channels from soot, metal doors are placed at the level of each horizontal section. Due to the different properties of metal and brick, in particular heating and cooling, the efficiency of the entire structure is reduced. To prevent this from happening, instead of doors, knock-out elements are often mounted - square bricks, which, if necessary, can be taken out and put back in place after cleaning work.

In the first case, access to the air duct is provided by opening and closing the product. In the second, before reaching the inner plane, it is necessary to dismantle one of the elements with little effort, and after cleaning work, install it in place, ensuring the safety of the seal. The number of such inspection holes is four, but 6 turns with access points are also allowed.

What is the difference from a coaxial chimney

In order to understand the distinguishing characteristics of horizontal chimneys from coaxial ones, one should disassemble their device and principle of operation.

The first device combines 2 pipes of different diameters: the inner one removes smoke and combustion products, and fresh air is supplied into the cavity between it and the outer wall of the outer pipe.

A prerequisite for the functioning of coaxial type chimneys is the presence of a turbine in the heating equipment, which will push out smoke and suck in oxygen. Such a system is the easiest to install, because. does not require natural traction.

Having dealt with the boilers, it's time to talk about, having considered the different designs of chimneys and the requirements for their construction.

The flue for a copper is intended for removal of products of combustion of fuel in the atmosphere. Actually, any heating boiler, if it is not electric, can only work if there is a properly made chimney.

What types of chimneys are available?

Types of chimneys for the heating system

According to the installation method, chimneys are:

• external attachments;
• double horizontal;
• internal vertical.

According to the principle of connection to boilers, chimneys are divided into:

• separate (separately for each heating boiler);
• combined (exit from, for example, two boilers is combined into one common, which leads to the street).

Now we will analyze how to properly make a chimney of each type.

Horizontal chimney

The easiest way is to make a horizontal chimney: you just need to make a hole in the wall of the boiler room to the street:

1. Horizontal chimney

Such chimneys are suitable only for boilers with forced draft.

External chimney

For such chimneys, forced draft is not needed: the exhaust gases are discharged due to natural atmospheric draft. With such a chimney device, the pipe from the boiler goes through the wall to the street, and then the chimney rises along the wall to the roof:

2. External chimney

The height of the chimney must be at least 5 m from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the chimney (see the following figure).

In the diagram, D1 and D2 are the diameters of the chimney itself and the outlet on the boiler. So these diameters should be equal and according to the standard 130 mm.

The chimney is attached to the wall with the help of additional parts (clamps and a support frame).

Internal chimney

The internal chimney immediately rises from the boiler up, passes through all the ceilings and then goes to the roof:

3. Scheme of the internal chimney

It is desirable to make the internal chimney two-layer, laying thermal insulation between the layers - to avoid fire from heating the chimney. Thermal insulation also prevents the formation of condensate inside the chimney.

Chimney in the wall of the house

The internal chimney can also be mounted in the wall of the house - inside the brickwork (see Fig. A below): from the boiler, the pipe goes into a channel inside the wall and rises to the roof through this channel.

4. A - internal chimney, made inside the brickwork; dependence of the height of the pipe on the distance to the roof ridge; B - the location of the pipe in the case of an attached boiler room.

Why insulate a chimney?

When any fuel is burned, water vapor is produced. In the chimney, the steam cools down, and at a temperature of 55 degrees and below, the steam condenses and forms water droplets. Water enters into a chemical reaction with various compounds from the exhaust gases, due to which various aggressive solutions are formed. To prevent such cooling, the chimneys are made double and insulated.

Chimney requirements

To the above, let's look at the diagrams on how chimneys are arranged.

Vertical execution. If the boiler is floor-standing and the floors are combustible, there must be a non-combustible substrate under the boiler: an asbestos sheet plus a metal sheet.

Chimney passage through a wooden wall(and in general a wall of combustible material) must have a fire seal of at least 0.5 meters around the chimney.

The next requirement is length of the horizontal section of the chimney: from the axis of the boiler to the axis of the chimney, which is outside, should be no more than 2 meters, otherwise the draft will be poor.

On the pipe section, located on the street, the pipe is two-layered and thermal insulation is laid between the layers - to prevent condensate in the pipe. But in any case, there should be a pocket at the bottom of the vertical section of the pipe for cleaning and draining condensate.

On fig. 3 a chimney that runs vertically through the floors: in this case through the ceiling and roof. The requirements are the same here. A requirement is also added: from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the pipe, a distance of at least 5 m.

Chimney diameter for gas boiler, set by the manufacturer, must be equal to the diameter of the chimney leaving the room. It happens that boilers with a smaller chimney diameter (about 80 mm), then the inner diameter of the rest of the chimney must be at least 130 mm. All these requirements must be taken into account, because if you do not do it right, you will have problems with the commissioning of gas equipment.

The following diagram (Fig. 4, A) considers the option when the chimney is embedded in the channel of the outer wall. The following requirements must be met here: there must be a cleaning hatch below the pipe entry into the wall channel. It happens that in cold weather sparrows, pigeons, etc. sit on the top of the chimney, they suffocate from carbon monoxide and fall into the chimney. Naturally, all this garbage will be collected until it clogs the entire chimney.

How high should the chimney be?

Consider how the outlet of the chimney itself can be positioned relative to the roof (Fig. 4, A, B, C).

If the pipe is at a distance of 1.5 ... 3 meters from the ridge, then the pipe is brought to the level with the ridge.

If from the pipe to the ridge is less than 1.5 meters, then the pipe should be located at least 0.5 m above the ridge.

In diagram B, the boiler room is attached to the house, while the requirements for the height of the pipe are the same as if the pipe were located on the roof.

Why is it important height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge? So that in strong winds, when air turbulence occurs, the igniter in the boiler does not blow out.

Here are the answers to basic questions about how to make a chimney.

how to make a chimney

25.10.2017
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Pechnik (Moscow)

The horizontal chimney, in its structure, differs from the classic vertical structures that we are used to seeing. The most commonly used and installed systems are precisely the coaxial type, since they are easy to install (just drill a hole of a suitable diameter in the wall, insert and fix the pipe, seal all gaps). After watching the video in this article and reading the selected information, you will learn more about what these exhaust systems are.

Basic withdrawal methods

First of all, you should be aware that a horizontal chimney can be discharged in one of two main ways, namely:

1. The output is carried out through the walls of the building. This option is one of the simplest, systems related to this type are steel coaxial pipes with insulation. This is mainly how gas or parapet equipment is removed;
2. Pipes are brought out through the floors and roof of the building. Such designs are more complex in execution and are more suitable for stoves that work with solid fuels. The main material for assembling such chimneys is brick. In the people, such systems are called nothing more than a "snake".

Requirements	Descriptions
Same section	Installation of horizontal chimneys is carried out with strict observance of the cross section and diameter of each of the channels. However, it should always be the same. For assembly, it is preferable to use refractory bricks (ceramics). With its dimensions of 25x12x6.5 centimeters, it can be determined that the following indicators of 12.5x12x6.5 centimeters will correspond to its half. This means that by blocking the horizontal channel with the help of the vertical one, the width and length parameters will be 12.5 centimeters, with a height of 6.5 centimeters (there will be a total of 2 = 13 cm). It is equally important to add to the obtained indicators a few centimeters, which will be needed to perform the insulation and sealing of the space. In total, we add another 1 cm to 13 and get 14. The final size of the section will be 12.5 by 12.5 by 14.
Smooth lines	Both the outer and the inner part of the system, if possible, should not contain sharp corners and outlines. Failure to comply with this requirement can lead to a deterioration in the operation of the traction mechanism (what to do if there is no draft in the chimney), as well as excessive accumulation of soot in the corners.
Smoothness	The horizontal chimney layout will allow you to make sure that only pipes that have a perfectly smooth inner surface, without roughness and chips, will work at full capacity and not clog.

Advice:horizontal chimneys, schemeswhich you can find in this article may have sharp corners. In order to remove them, use a grinder (for brick structures). However, do not forget that all joints, seams and joints must be completely sealed.

Rules for the installation work

In order to do the installation yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the following rules and requirements for carrying out these works. The instruction allows us to conclude that in the process of work we need to lay out a brick in two rows, and use a mortar for adhesion. During the work, make sure that all the seams have the same size - this will maintain an equal cross section along the entire length of the chimney:

• At each stage of work, be sure to use the building level and tape measure;
• Bricks can be knocked out with a hammer having a wooden backing or with a rubber ending;
• Fill each seam completely, and remove all excess in a timely manner, without waiting for drying. This will make the seams as even as possible, and the surface smooth.

Conclusion

The maximum length of the horizontal section of the chimney is no more than half a meter (eight bricks wide, with a length of three), but this can vary significantly, depending on the characteristics of the house itself, the type of heating equipment.

Channels located in a horizontal direction have an area several times larger than that of vertical installations. To assemble this, it is necessary to take into account many different nuances and rules, and it is best to entrust the work to a professional.

Maintain the same thickness of the seams

Maintain the same thickness of the seams

Tip: after the edges of the brick are cut with a grinder, we recommend that you additionally walk along them with a grinder.

Standards taken as a basis by professionals, according to the size of the brick:

• 26x26 centimeters (one whole brick each);
• 26 by 13 centimeters (one brick by half a second);
• 13x13 (half the first brick, half the second).

Important: the standard parameters indicated above are taken as a basis, since the use of other indicators may adversely affect the productivity of the heating unit and, in turn, worsen the operation of the thrust or increase it to an unacceptable maximum. A very large cross section of the channels leads to the formation of an excess amount of condensate, which does not have time to drain and evaporate, which negatively affects the brick structure, and it begins to collapse under the influence of the resulting acids. Soon this leads to the occurrence of destruction of the brick and the violation of the tightness of the seams. The small diameter of the pipe, on the contrary, can lead to overheating of the structure (temperature above 250 degrees) - this also leads to destruction, cracks and deformations of the brick.

The number of cleaning doors should correspond to the number of horizontal sections. For example, five cleaning doors are installed on five channels (one for each). If the design allows, the number of compartments for cleaning can be reduced, since because of them the efficiency of the structure is significantly reduced (different coefficients of thermal expansion for metal and brick). The chimney itself, in addition to a smooth internal structure, tightness of seams, joints, connections, must be assembled exclusively from gas-tight, refractory materials. And also it must have good tolerance to acids and condensate, be resistant to mechanical loads.

A horizontal chimney can be equipped both for gas boilers and for drying ovens and models that have not only a heating function, but also a hob, an oven. Coaxial pipes are allowed to be installed in brick and wooden buildings, while the requirements for brick chimneys are more stringent, and installation is more complicated and requires experience and assembly skills.

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The oven is rude and a source of considerable confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not a well-established term. In Western and, partially, in South Slavic languages, it is either just a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for a summer kitchen with 150-200 bricks. Well, according to Dutch, Swede, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. fly out on a request in RuNet.

In fact, a stove with a coarse, or simply a coarse, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating shield, separate from the stove according to the thermal cycle, but technologically integrated, i.e. they are built jointly (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there can be no bell-shaped coarse - heating shields for furnaces are always channel. Do-it-yourself rough is built simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires fewer materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (similar to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude people are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not hit the budget.

Note: heating and cooking rough brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob - 1200-1350, - 1800-2000, - 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

Do-it-yourself grubka can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the furnace, and then it looks indistinguishable from a stove, pos. 1 in fig. The rough-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough-slabs are mostly installed in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor if its bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf / sq. m.

Rough with an attached shield (pos. 2) is structurally more complicated and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. Rough on wood with an attached shield is capable of developing up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The diagram of the flue gas current in the rough with a shield is given in pos. 3; the popular Galanka oven was built on this basis. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a rough for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during the construction, it will be necessary to pay special attention to some features of the coarse furnaces, which are considered in a significant part of the material of the article.

Note: wood-fired roughening can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is undesirable to heat such coal, the couch overheats.

Why is rude - rude

Visually, a rough oven can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the structure (pos. 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of heat engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to develop and build a rough because its furnace (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately, and then “blinded” together according to the rules for conjugating building structures, taking into account the requirements of heat engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because. the interaction of the thermal cycles of the firing part and the shield is not taken into account, namely, due to its consideration, it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, if you live in a region with a harsh climate, it may only make sense for you as a seasonal temporary oven.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences between a rough stove and a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace part. The tooth retains hot gases under the hob, which in the summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In rough it is not needed, because. excess heat will be used for heating.

The coarse furnace should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with enhanced draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool down. Their thermal energy will turn into mechanical energy, which will successfully fly out into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This is the reason for the special requirements for the firebox and furnace fittings of coarse, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose, heating shields for them are of different types. Schemes of heating shields for furnaces are given in fig. below; the fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

1. Consistent stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to the current of gases is the greatest. The compactness and heat efficiency of the furnace are average. The most commonly used scheme;
2. Sequential course with horizontal channels. The mass and dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the heat efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to arrange a couch, i.e. the upper channel does not get very hot;
3. Consistent stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is like that of a shield with horizontal channels, technological complexity is like that of a shield with short vertical channels. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. The highest thermal efficiency, the smallest mass per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Use with a fire chamber of the reduced power is possible. Optimum for an extension to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: there are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chess. The most complex, but also the lightest, resistance to the flow of gases is the least. The only possible option for being rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.

Special Requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rude - compactness and the possibility of building in an existing house without capital construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful furnace in the structure of the furnace in general of the same dimensions, it will quickly become unusable from excessive heat load. If special requirements are not met for:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry solutions.
• Ways of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installation of furnace fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is given in Fig. The crushed stone pillow without sand filling is leveled into the horizon before pouring. Filling mortar M150 - cement M300 and sand 1: 2. The gap between the rubble foundation and flooring is 30-40 mm. Do not forget to support the cut logs! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but gross mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in the plan should protrude on the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: a brick bed on the foundation for the furnace is laid out with dressing in rows and between rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry of the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on a lime mortar, as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. Sand for clay mortar is highly desirable to take mountain or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-digging clay, brought to the desired fat content with sand, is of little use for rough masonry.

masonry

For masonry, a stove is used and, if the order (see below) is provided, fireclay bricks; the red worker is suitable for the highest quality - light red in color (completely annealed), without burn marks, warping and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is rough. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove-maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in trimming / chipping of bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. It is impossible to plump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A layer of mortar 5 mm is applied to the bed and poke of the brick being laid.
• The brick to be laid is laid with a smooth movement slightly with an inclination and moved to the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam converges to 3 mm; can't be tapped!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing - 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after cleaning the excess mortar are filled with mortar by indentation without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

accessories

Fittings and grates for coarse need cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with lugs for straight whiskers (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in fig. on the right, it’s impossible to be rude; It's not by oven rules at all. For a country Dutch woman 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe it will work, but not for being rude.

It is necessary, firstly, to compress the whiskers (wire - galvanized 2-3 mm) with wrapping so that they do not move. Press at first not tight, set at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inside of the masonry). Then gently tighten, shake the door/latch lightly. Haven't left? Good. Then, secondly, you need to wrap the skirt tightly with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories in the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grate and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple coarse for a seasonal dacha or a temporarily inhabited house. The peculiarity is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and if it is already warm enough outside, it does not allow the stove to overheat the room during cooking.

On the trail. rice. - the ordering of a single-burner coarse is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This option is more for a hunting lodge or a summer house, where they spend the weekend in the winter.

Further on fig. - ordering the house heating and cooking coarse with switching to winter and summer running (two-way). This stove is quite complicated, but quite economical both in winter and in summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. - ordering and drawings of the heating rough - fireplace stove (furnace door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rude is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment - with a facade to the living room and rear to 2 adjacent rooms; the partition between them falls on the back side (back) of the furnace. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in fig. below the scheme and order are rough with a stove bench: a cooking part in the kitchen / hallway with a bathroom; couch - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove-maker. For a firebox in warm weather, the stove bench is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen / hallway will have to be kept wide open, because. there is no switchover to summer running.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional shield with staggered channels is located (in the inset at the bottom right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if you take a glass firebox door. She is 2-way; ZLH on the drawings - the valve of the summer course.

About chimneys

The chimney for the rough must meet all fire safety rules. Here it is only necessary to note that the best chimney for rough is a sandwich one, because. it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If rough is your first oven (which is quite possible), don't rush to build, model on the table first. Suddenly there is a little extra money - you can buy a kit for modeling furnaces with ordering schemes and plastic bricks on a scale, such are sold. No - bricks can also be cut to scale from foam. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.