It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or inflating wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies removed from old technology. We will tell you about structures that are assembled from scrap materials.

In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to be well prepared: study the diagram, find it on the farm or buy some additional parts. Let's look at a few possible options for making your own air compressor.

Air compressor made from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit operates almost silently. Let's look at the diagram of the future design and make a list of the necessary components and parts.

1 — tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 — hoses; 6 — diesel filter; 7 — gasoline filter; 8 — air inlet; 9 - pressure switch; 10 — crosspiece; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 — receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 — pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 — moisture-oil trap; 16 — pneumatic socket

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements taken are: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator ( better production USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator at repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can involve friends in the search, who at work may have decommissioned fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher, fire extinguisher for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher cylinder must be emptied safely.

In addition you will need:

• pressure gauge (as for a pump, water heater);
• diesel filter;
• filter for a gasoline engine;
• pressure switch;
• electric toggle switch;
• pressure regulator (reducer) with pressure gauge;
• reinforced hose;
• water pipes, tees, adapters, fittings + clamps, hardware;
• materials for creating a frame - metal or wood + furniture wheels;
• safety valve (to relieve overpressure);
• self-closing air inlet (for connection, for example, to an airbrush).

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.

A compressor is a necessary device on a household. Making it yourself is not very easy, but it is possible. And for this you will need improvised means, as well as small things from the building materials store.

Materials

To create a homemade compressor from a fire extinguisher you will need:

• fire extinguisher OHP-10 with a volume of 10.5 liters (as a receiver);
• pressure switch PM5, designed for water, but also suitable for air;
• two moisture separator filters;
• one automobile fuel, fine purification;
• adapters;
• crosses;
• reinforced PVC hose with an internal diameter of 10 mm.

See the photo for everything included in the set. I also purchased a valve (at first I thought that I would use it to regulate the pressure, and that it was no different from a reducer).

After I figured out that the valve and the reducer are still somewhat different things, I bought a reducer with a pressure gauge, and a separate pressure gauge to measure the pressure inside the receiver. We also purchased a thin silicone hose from a pet store, costing 10 rubles per meter. It is very flexible, light and durable, there is nothing better for an airbrush feeder.

And of course, where would we be without FUM tape, which is sold in any plumbing store.

Step 1. First of all, screw the balloon to the base. We take out all the stuff from the lid, and from inside the fire extinguisher, we leave only the cylinder itself and the lid.

Step 2. In the hole in the cast iron lid we cut a pipe thread, 1/4 inch. We also wrap FUM tape around the wide thread on the cylinder, make a rubber gasket (in theory there should be one, I had one too, but I put it somewhere, and in the end I cut it out myself from a car inner tube, after construction I found an original one) and screw it on cast iron lid.

Step 3. Screw an adapter from 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP into the hole in the cover.

Step 5. We screw the pressure switch into the crosspiece through the 1/2HP-1/4HP adapter, and screw in the 1/2HP-1/2HP adapter from the side.

Step 7. To it on one side we screw a gearbox with a 1/4HP thread through a 1/2HP-1/4BP adapter.

Step 8. From the other end, also through the 1/2HP-1/4VN adapter, we screw a pressure gauge, which has a 1/4HP thread. WITH opposite side screw in the valve (to bleed air from the cylinder), which has a 1/2 HP thread.

Step 9. We screw a filter-moisture separator to the gearbox, which has a 1/4 HP thread and fits directly to the gearbox. The nuance here is that the filter must be positioned correctly (maintain the top and bottom), and make sure that there is a drain hole at the lowest point.

Step 10. Next, we make a line for another filter, from the inlet side there is a 1/2BP fitting, which is connected through an adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP, screw it onto the filter having a 1/4HP thread. I was a little tricky with the outlet hole, because there were extra parts, and there were some missing ones, so in the end it turned out like this.

Step 11. A 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the hole in the 1/4HP filter, a tee is screwed onto it (I had an extra one), on one side of which a plug with 1/2HP is screwed in, on the other side of the tee opposite the filter a fitting is screwed in 1/2HP.

ATTENTION: I did it so cleverly because there were extra parts, so that you don’t make this mistake, do this: a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the outlet hole, and a fitting for the hose with a 1/2HP thread is screwed onto it. The layout below will be given specifically for this option.

Step 12. Next, to the hole with external thread of unknown cross-section and pitch (I couldn’t find it) that comes out of the fire extinguisher as an outlet nozzle, a reinforced hose is ideal, which we secure on top with a clamp.

Step 13. At the other end of the hose, insert the fitting from the filter and secure it with a clamp.

Step 14. Next, we again insert the reinforced hose from the incoming fitting of the filter and connect it to the outlet tube of the compressor. I think you can figure out how to secure this goodness there. I have a cunning system of several gaskets there and everything is clamped on top with a clamp.

Step 15. Finally, we screw a 1/4HP fitting into the outlet hole of the 1/4HP filter, onto which we place a silicone tube that fits almost perfectly on it, and does not even require compression with a clamp, the second end of the tube is already connected to the airbrush.

Since the pressure after the reducer is small compared to the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any effort. At the inlet of the compressor, as I already said, a car filter is installed to clean the air.

Regarding the oil change, there are three pipes coming out of the compressor. one is inlet, the other is output, the third is sealed and is for adding oil. So we bite it off with pliers, but be careful not to get sawdust inside, otherwise the motor may be finished.

Drain the oil from there. I honestly didn’t measure how much I drained, but it was something like a glass. I poured back in 10W40 car oil, about 350 grams in volume. Automotive oil the better, which, firstly, has a bunch of additives that protect the engine, and secondly, unlike spindle oil, it does not “absorb” moisture.

What to buy where

1) A compressor from a refrigerator - either screw it together, or buy it from organizations that repair refrigerators. I have no idea how much it might cost there, I wasn’t interested.

2) Receiver (fire extinguisher) - get it from an enterprise or organization, you can write it off, or buy it, I heard that the price for one is about 200 rubles

3) Pressure switch - 250 rubles, in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.

5) Reinforced hose with internal dia. 10 mm - 55 rubles/meter, I bought two meters at the car market, although one would have been enough.

6) Silicone hose - 10 rubles/m, pet store, bought three meters.

7) Air filters-moisture separators - 170 rubles per piece, at the car market, bought a pair.

8) Automotive fine gasoline filter - 35 rubles, car market.

9) Cross - 1 piece
- Tee - 1 piece.
- Valve - 1 piece.
- Adapter 1/2НР-1/2НР - 1 piece.
- Adapter 1/2HP-1/4HP - 3 pcs.
- Adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP - 3 pcs.
- fitting 1/2VR - 2 pcs.
- Fitting 1/4HP - 1 pc.

All this is bought in plumbing stores, and in total it will cost about 500 rubles.

10) Pressure gauge - 1 piece, 90 rubles in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.

11) FUM tape - 12 rubles, in any plumbing store.

12) Clamps - 5-10 rubles/piece. 6 pieces (or better yet 8 just in case), at the car market.

Amount: 1897 rubles.

Agree, not so bad! This does not cover screws, bolts, angles, etc. elements with which you will attach the receiver and compressor to the base.

Note: HP - external thread, BP - internal thread!

Using a 12-volt compressor, you can pump up tires, remove debris and dust, blow out (clean) grill elements, inflate balls, supply compressed air to a spray gun, etc.
If the compressor is equipped with a receiver, its operating mode will be easier. After all, such a capacity creates a reserve compressed air, which allows you to take breaks in the operation of the compressor.

At the same time, the quality of the supplied air will increase, since the receiver equalizes the pressure, smoothes out pulsations, cools the compressed air supplied from the compressor, and collects condensate.

Required accessories

Our installation will consist of two main parts: a compressor and a receiver - the fire extinguisher body. For safe and reliable operation device, it is important that the pressure created by the compressor (140 psi ≈ 10 bar ≈ 10 kg/sq.cm) does not more pressure, for which the fire extinguisher body is designed (20 bar ≈ 20 kg/sq.cm).

To create an installation that works in automatic mode, we will need the following accessories:

• a shut-off unit on the receiver with a system of threaded channels;
• safety valve;
• pressure gauge with scale in bars;
• switch pressure switch;
• valve in the form of a ball valve;
• spiral and linear hoses;
• air gun;
• 12 Volt battery;
• fittings, unions and adapters.

To assemble individual units into a single whole, we will need:

• keys and pliers;
• drill and crimper (means for crimping wire lugs);
• hacksaw and scissors;
• O-rings and FUM tape;
• knitting wire and double-sided tape;
• piece plastic pipe.

Making a receiver from a fire extinguisher housing for a 12 V compressor

It is better to choose a fire extinguisher with a large volume for the receiver. In this case, its efficiency when working in tandem with a compressor will be higher.
Next, we unscrew the shut-off valve with a hose, shake out its contents from the body (usually this is a substance based on ammonium phosphates, as it is the cheapest, but there may be other compositions).

Then we wash the inside of the fire extinguisher body clean water several times. Wipe the outside of the container with a clean cloth and dry the inside with a hair dryer.

Receiver equipment

Before this stage of work, we once again compare the characteristics of the compressor and the former fire extinguisher housing, and make sure that our receiver will meet the capabilities of the compressor in all respects.

Screw it into the neck metal container locking assembly with a central channel and four lateral threaded holes.

We screw a safety valve into one of the side channels, adjusting it to a lower opening pressure.

Of the two pressure gauges available, we select the one that is calibrated in bar pressure units, and also screw it into the other side channel on the locking unit.

In the two remaining channels we screw in an adapter and a pressure switch - the main element of the automation system, which turns on the compressor when the pressure in the receiver becomes less than the operating one.

We screw a ball valve into the shut-off unit from above to supply compressed air from the receiver or its shut-off.

Next, using a set of rubber rings, FUM tape and keys, we seal and strengthen the joints of all elements with the locking unit and the latter with the body of the future receiver.

It remains to screw onto the ball valve, also using o-ring and a FUM tape, an adapter for installing a spiral hose, at the other end of which a tool powered by compressed air (we have a pneumatic gun) will be attached through the same adapter.

Compressor piping

We first check its functionality by connecting it to a 12-volt battery and make sure that everything is in order with it.
We put a hose adapter on the compressor outlet fitting. We seal using FUM tape and firmly tighten the hex connector with keys.

We install the compressor on the receiver in the place where it will later be fixed. We cut off the hose at the outlet with scissors, leaving a small extension onto which we put a plastic rectangular fitting. It is necessary to give the desired direction to the hose that will come out of it and connect to the adapter on the receiver. Between the last two parts, a hexagonal connector is cut into the hose - also known as check valve.

Installing the compressor on the receiver

We glue strips onto the supporting surfaces of the compressor base. double sided tape. This will allow the nodes to be pre-fixed relative to each other, and will further contribute to the strength of the connection.
Then, using pliers and a binding wire, which we pass through the holes in the base, firmly screw the compressor to the receiver.

Manufacturing of the installation support part

To do this, you will need a piece of plastic pipe comparable in size to the outer diameter of the receiver. Using a hacksaw, cut three rings of equal width from the pipe.

We make a cross-section in two rings so that they can be put on the receiver. Cut the third ring into two equal parts. They, in fact, will be the “legs” of our installation.

In two rings, at points diametrically opposite to the cuts, we drill holes using a drill. We do the same in the half rings in their center.
We connect rings with half rings in pairs using screws and a drill, screwing in the hardware from the side of the split full ring.
On the inside of the split rings, covering the heads of the screws, we glue a strip of double-sided tape to fix the rings on the receiver body from below.

We install the rings on the receiver, spreading them along the cut. To firmly fix the rings on the surface of the receiver, we also glue a strip under each end of the ring, starting from the cut and below.

Selecting pressure in the receiver and setting the relay

After connecting the hoses and turning on the compressor, we check the pressure build-up in the receiver using a pressure gauge and the operation of the installation using a pneumatic gun when the power is turned off. Relieve the pressure in the receiver using safety valve by pulling the ring on the rod.

We cut one strand of the wire from the compressor and connect its ends to the pressure switch using lugs and a crimper. We turn on the compressor again and make sure that the pressure in the receiver increases.

The benefits of a compressor when performing various works in a workshop or garage is undeniable. This unit has long ceased to be the property of construction crews and departmental vehicle fleets. Here is a superficial list of what can be done with a compressor:

• Painting work
• Sandblasting of any materials
• Blowing debris out of hard-to-reach cavities of units
• Cleaning the area
• Tire service
• Working with pneumatic tools.

An air compressor can be purchased at a store. Moreover, kits of any power and performance are offered.

However, such equipment is not cheap: if you do not plan to make a profit from it, purchasing it simply to facilitate manual labor may seem impractical. Therefore, many home craftsmen try to make a compressor with their own hands.

Important! High pressure air is a source of increased danger. Easy to assemble or use homemade equipment may cause serious injury.

The simplest (and relatively safe) homemade compressor can be built from a regular car accessory. We will talk about a ready-made electrical device - a compressor for inflating wheels.


It would seem, where should it be used other than for its intended purpose? Design features do not allow large volumes of air to be supplied per unit of time.

This parameter deserves a separate explanation:

The compressor has two important characteristics:

Power

Ability to create high blood pressure without additional load on the engine.

Automotive units are in complete order with this. You can safely build up pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres. True, pumping up a wheel to the typical 2.5-3 units takes a good ten minutes (at zero initial pressure). During this time, inexpensive devices may simply overheat, so breaks are required.

This happens due to low performance automotive compressors.

Performance

The ability to produce a certain volume of air “over the mountain” per unit of time. The higher it is, the faster the container is filled, and the more intense the flow from the nozzle when using compressed air directly.

To combine these qualities, a large volume is required piston group unit, and powerful engine with high speeds. Plus, it is necessary to ensure cooling of the cylinders, otherwise the compressor will overheat and jam. Such devices exist; even turbines can be used as a working unit.

But the cost of the equipment does not allow it to be used en masse, especially in everyday life.

Simply put- either power or performance. How to get out of a vicious circle? Use storage capacity– receiver. In industrial designs, this is a steel cylinder, which is slowly filled by a powerful, but not very efficient compressor.

Homemade low-power compressor from an electric motor from a toy. A simple solution to a pressing problem. Such a compressor is quite suitable for supplying air to an aquarium. How to make it with your own hands in detail step by step in this video.

Once sufficient pressure has been created, a sufficiently large volume of air can be supplied from the receiver in a short time. Then you need to wait until the compressor restores pressure.
This is how all units work, including those installed on vehicles with air brakes.

Making your own small compressor for an airbrush is very simple. For these purposes you will need a small air compressor, as well as a container in which air under pressure will accumulate, in other words, a receiver. For this homemade product, the author used a compressor from a refrigerator as a compressor. As for the receiver, the OHP-10 fire extinguisher was perfect for these purposes, the volume of which, when measured, turned out to be 10.5 liters instead of the declared 8.5 liters; the fire extinguisher was obtained almost free of charge. The homemade product cost the author no more than 2,000 rubles.

Materials and tools for homemade work:
- fire extinguisher OHP-10 or another suitable one;
- pressure switch PM5;
- two moisture separator filters;
- one fuel filter;
- reinforced PVC hose (internal diameter 10 mm);
- gearbox with pressure gauge;
- pressure gauge for measuring the pressure inside the receiver;
- FUM tape;
- pliers, wrenches and other tools.

Airbrush manufacturing process:

Step one. Preparing the fire extinguisher
The first step is to empty the fire extinguisher of its contents. This must be done in an open area.
Now you get an empty cylinder; you need to screw it to the base. This process will not be difficult for anyone.
All contents must be removed from the lid, including the fire extinguisher. As a result, there should be a cylinder and a lid.

Step two. Homemade assembly
The cast iron lid needs to be cut pipe thread by 1/4 inch. You need to wrap FUM tape around the wide thread of the cylinder for tightness, and also make a rubber gasket if the original one is lost or damaged. It can be made from a car camera. Well, then the cast iron lid is screwed on.

Then a 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP inch adapter is screwed into the hole in the cover. Then you need to screw on the 1/2-inch cross. Of course, all connections must be sealed using FUM tape.

You need to screw a pressure switch into the adapter with 1/2HP-1/4HP, and the adapter 1/2HP-1/2HP is also screwed into the side.

The author screws the tee on the side.

Subsequently, a reducer is screwed to the tee using a 1/2HP-1/4BP adapter; it has a 1/4HP thread.

On the other hand, again through the 1/2HP-1/4VN adapter, a pressure gauge is screwed on, it also has a 1/4HP thread. It is necessary to screw in a valve on the opposite side of the cylinder, with the help of which air will be released from the cylinder. The valve has a 1/2 HP thread.

A water separator filter needs to be connected to the gearbox; a 1/4 HP thread is used here. It is important to install a filter under right angle. The drain hole should be at the lowest point.

Then you need to make another filter line. On the side of the inlet hole there is a 1/2BP fitting connected through an adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP. It needs to be screwed onto the filter, which has a 1/4 HP thread. What should happen in the end can be seen in the photo.

You need to screw a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter into the hole of the 1/4HP filter, and then screw a tee to it. On one side the tee is plugged with a 1/2 HP plug, and on the opposite side a 1/2 HP fitting is screwed in.

Step three. Final stage of assembly
Now you need to take a reinforced hose and screw it onto the fitting coming out of the fire extinguisher, which acts as a nozzle. The hose is secured with a clamp. On the other side, a fitting from the filter is inserted into the hose, and it is also secured with a clamp.

After this, the hose is again connected to the filter and connected to the compressor tube. Everything is tightened with clamps.

On final stage a similar fitting must be screwed into the outlet hole of the 1/4BP filter. fits perfectly on him silicone tube, which does not even need to be fixed with a clamp. Well, the other end is connected directly to the airbrush.

Due to the fact that the pressure behind the reducer is small, compared with the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any problems.