What are the most effective green manures for winter garlic? Experienced gardeners advise sowing the area allocated for garlic with mustard. This cruciferous crop releases esters and phytoncides into the soil, which have a detrimental effect on the stem nematode, the main pest of garlic plantations.

Moreover, it has disinfecting properties as root system mustard and green biomass plowed into the soil for decomposition.

Method of planting winter garlic in green manure.

There are two ways to plant garlic in mustard:

• The first method is when the mustard is planted in a continuous mat. There is no need to be afraid that the mustard roots will somehow harm the garlic, this will not happen. Because mustard will not create any competition for garlic. Since garlic will grow and develop next year. And the mustard will die with the first frost. And it will be food for our garlic;
• The second method is to sow mustard in rows, and plant garlic in the spaces between the mustard rows.

As in the first and second cases, it is most convenient to plant garlic with a planting cone.

The optimal distance for planting garlic is 6 - 7 centimeters in a row and 20 - 25 centimeters between rows. You need to bury a clove of garlic into the soil at 2 times the height of the clove of garlic being planted, usually 5-7 centimeters.

The timing of planting winter garlic depends on the region of residence and the current weather in a given season. For central Russia, this is approximately October 4, which is about four weeks before the onset of persistent frosts.

The main guideline should be the soil itself, the temperature of which should be 7 degrees. It is in such soil that garlic roots still actively grow.

What will happen in late autumn, when the mustard has grown sufficient green mass?

With the first frost, it will lie down on the soil, forming a continuous carpet of sedated tops. Which will retain snow in the garden bed, which is especially important during winters with little snow.

In addition, very loose soil will be created on the ridge with garlic, due to the fact that the entire root system of the green manure will begin to actively rot in the spring and the garlic will begin to receive additional nutrition.

And also, improvised mulch from sedative tops in the spring will retain much more natural moisture for the development of garlic.

It turns out that there is another effective green manure for winter garlic: planting phacelia, which belongs to the hydrophile family. In addition to early ripening and high yields (in 45 days the plant gains from 200 to 300 kg of biomass per hundred square meters, which is equivalent to adding 250 kg of mullein or compost), phacelia has powerful phytosanitary characteristics.

At the end of September, many gardeners plant winter garlic , and I'm no exception.
After harvesting the garlic at the end of July, I dry it well and select it for planting material the most large heads with two or four slices. I peel them well and put them in a separate container until autumn planting.

I change the garlic bed every year, if only to gradually improve the health of all the beds. This year I will be planting garlic in the bed where strawberries used to grow. After harvesting the strawberries, I treated the entire bed with a solution Farmayoda, three days later I spilled everything from Vostok Em-1 and planted green manure(mustard, buckwheat, oats). I had time, and all the green manure crops sprouted very well and managed to grow a good amount of green mass.

Previously, garlic was always planted according to the standard scheme, one clove every 10-15 cm, but I was very attracted interesting way planting garlic in two tiers. Since the family is large, there is not enough land from the garden, but I want to harvest more - so I took a risk. What attracted me to this method? Because when using one bed you spend the same amount of time and effort, but you get twice as much harvest!

There are two options for planting garlic in two tiers. The first is to plant garlic cloves on top of each other (option 2 in the figure), or you can plant them in checkerboard pattern and at different depths, but it also turns out to be two tiers (option 3 in the figure). But I settled on option No. 2.

So, before planting garlic, using Fokina flat cutter, I squinted green manure and put all the green mass in the passage between the beds.

Then, using a device, I marked the bed with holes and, as an experiment, I planted half of the bed with Em-bokashi, and the other half with By The Shining 2 .

We place the first row of garlic cloves at a depth of 11-13 cm. Sprinkle a little soil and plant the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. I covered everything with a mixture of humus and soil, and returned all the green manure from the path back to the garden bed.

Now they will protect the earth from drying out, in winter they will serve as a warm blanket, and in spring they will become food for soil animals and fertilizer for plants. In the spring (as soon as the air temperatures are above zero) I will water the garden bed with Em-preparations and be sure to feed my garlic with Azotovite. I sowed dill in the spaces between the garlic rows.

During the summer, I usually do two feedings with herbal infusion and water once every two weeks. Vostok Em1. If very dry summer, then I water garlic as the soil dries out, but thanks to the mulch, this rarely has to be done.
Well, I’ll show you and tell you what the harvest will be like next summer!

Oksana Papsheva,
FERTILITY, Chelyabinsk

Green manure for winter garlic can improve the quality of the soil, protect the plantings from pests and, as a result, get a good harvest. The most common plant for improving a planting site is mustard, however, besides it, there are other herbs that are successfully used as green manure.

Green manure is widely used and is used to improve soil quality before planting. cultivated plants. For garlic, which is planted before winter, useful herbs provide good food, protect it from damage to the teeth by pests, while garden culture germinates early in the spring and develops actively. On the hundredth day after germination, the gardener can already dig up bulbs that will be large, fragrant and shelf-stable.

Expert opinion

Filatov Ivan Yurievich, private farmer for more than 30 years

In the absence of fertilizer plants, garlic yield decreases. The use of companion plants increases the content of minerals, nitrogen, starch, sugars and proteins in the soil, which are necessary for the proper development of vegetable crops. The root system of auxiliary plants is deep and does not allow the soil to become excessively compacted, as a result of which its water and air permeability increases.

In areas with harsh winters, herbs additionally insulate the soil, helping garlic plantings survive frosts. In such a situation, they do not embed the satellite plant into the ground, but leave it to grow so that by frost it will lie on the bed, covering it. At the time of planting the crop, the height of the satellite shoots should be at least 20 cm.

Do you use sedirates in growing garlic?

No I don't need itYes, it affects productivity

Plants from six groups are used as fertilizers. Which type to choose depends on the quality of the soil and the possibility of purchasing planting material.

For garlic before winter, it is best to choose cruciferous, hydrophilic or, in extreme cases, cereal green manures. The remaining species are more suitable for spring planting.

How to plant garlic in green manure? Planting crops in green manure in the fall should be done correctly in compliance with a number of rules. You can plant the crop both after digging up the area, when the enriching herbs are already mixed with the soil, and where they are still growing. Best used as a plant food white mustard, which will reliably protect garlic from pests and diseases.

Is it possible to plant garlic immediately after planting green manure in the soil? Usually you need to start this only 4-6 days from the moment the green mass was dug into the soil. If mustard is used, you should wait at least 2 weeks. When cereals are used as fertilizer, garlic can be planted within 2-3 days.

You can also plant garlic in growing green manure before winter with high efficiency. In this case, the auxiliary grasses will cover the ground with the onset of cold weather and reliably protect the plantings from frost, and also prevent them from freezing if the winter is snowless or little snow.

Among the growing herbs, garlic is planted in two ways.

1. First way. In this case, green manure should form a continuous carpet, which is especially suitable for mustard. The crop is planted in rows among useful plants. The roots of the grass will not interfere with its growth, but will only improve the soil around it. Green fertilizers do not compete for vegetables, since they begin to develop only in spring, when the grass has already died from winter frosts and becomes food and protection for plantings.
2. Second way. With it, auxiliary herbs should be arranged in rows, between which the vegetable will be planted.

The choice of planting method depends only on personal preference.

What green manure should I sow after garlic? After harvesting garlic, you must plant it in the garden bed. useful plants to restore the soil. This technique will prevent subsequent plantings from losing quality. To maintain soil fertility, it is recommended to plant legumes after garlic, which will increase the amount of nitrogen. Green manure and garlic grow well together without being competitors for each other, so they can be planted side by side.

The best green manure for garlic

What kind of green manure should I plant in front of garlic? Agrotechnicians recommend using any of the following plants to improve the soil before planting garlic.

1. White mustard. The grass is unpretentious, perfectly loosens the soil and increases its nutritional value, saturating it with organic matter. In addition, mustard suppresses weeds and repels pests. The plant can be planted in autumn and spring.
2. Phacelia. A plant that is resistant to adverse weather conditions, loosens the soil and increases the organic content in it. You can plant grass on any soil. After this, there is no need to additionally feed the area.
3. Oats. This cereal can be sown on various soils. It requires watering to grow fully. It is best to plant the plant in early spring, and plant it in the ground in mid-summer. Then, by the time winter garlic is planted, the soil will become quite nutritious.
4. Clover. Grass increases the nitrogen content in the soil. It is necessary to grow green manure on wet soils. It is good to plant it between the rows of garlic. To maintain soil fertility, it is enough to sow clover once every 3 years.
5. Sweet clover. It is planted to improve the quality of the soil structure and enrich it with nitrogen, as well as cleanse the area of ​​pathogenic bacteria. The plant can tolerate drought and frost.

Video: about planting garlic in green manure

In this video they will tell you about the timing of planting winter garlic, about the best green manures for soil improvement autumn planting, as well as the depth of planting garlic.

The choice of green manure type for winter garlic depends on the climate and quality of the land in a particular region. Such helper plants can be embedded in the ground or left unmown, which is equally beneficial for garlic.

Garlic is vitamins, phytoncides and an amazing addition to our dishes. It is impossible to imagine our table and, accordingly, our garden without it. The plots allocated for it are much smaller than, say, for potatoes or other root crops. But in order for the harvest to be fat and the garlic to be healthy, strong and useful, it is necessary to observe crop rotation and correctly alternate it with other vegetable and other crops.

Garlic loves bright sunny places, non-acidified soil, sandy loam, loam. If the soil pH exceeds 7.0, it should be limed. It is better that the soil is enriched with organic matter. In a slightly shaded place, you can plant small cloves of spring garlic - not to get a head, but to grow green, fragrant feathers.

Garlic does not like excess moisture. A sign of excess moisture content in the soil is a lighter, paler color of the above-ground part.

• The crop needs to be watered from May to June, using at least 5 liters and no more than 10 liters per day. square meter beds.
• If garlic does not have enough water, the feathers become whitish, bluish, and the top of the feather dries out and curls.
• In July, watering should be gradually reduced as the underground part of the plant matures. Overwatering can cause the garlic bulbs to rot.
• After watering, weeding is done to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil: it will prevent the plant from breathing.

Both winter and spring plantings are done. The conditions for growing these two types of garlic are different. The spring crop has a significantly shorter growing season than the winter crop, so it needs to be planted early in the spring, without fear of frost. You need to start planting garlic as soon as the soil warms up to 5°C. This is done because the spring crop forms roots well at this soil temperature and in conditions when the soil still retains moisture accumulated from winter.

For spring garlic, the bed needs to be prepared (dug up and fertilized) in the fall. Compost, humus, and ash are added. An additional up to 15 g of mineral complex per m2 may be needed.

Before planting, you need to loosen the bed and let it dry, plant the cloves not too deep, and mulch the top. Watering stops in mid-August, and spring garlic should be harvested after the leaves have fallen, in September.

Winter garlic is planted a month and a half before frost, in the last ten days of September - the first ten days of October. You need to prepare the bed for this in August, liming, adding a bucket of organic matter per square meter with the addition of superphosphates. You need to dig up the bed with a bayonet. After this, the bed is treated with a solution copper sulfate at the rate of a tablespoon per bucket of water, and a dark film is stretched before planting.

Before planting, a little sand is poured into the bottom of the groove where the garlic cloves will be planted, this protects the root system from rotting. The top of the bed is covered with peat mulch or sawdust. If there is little snow and severe frost in winter, the soil needs to be covered protective equipment, insulation materials (mulch, sawdust, etc.).

Garlic cannot be planted after garlic, as it is a monotonous crop:

• depletes the soil, drawing the same nutrients from it;
• allows pests and pathogens characteristic of it to accumulate in the soil.

In order for the soil to become suitable for garlic, you need to give it a break from garlic plantings for at least a year, and preferably two.

Although experienced gardeners they say that it is best for spring varieties to skip five years and plant garlic in the same bed only in the sixth year, and for winter varieties to take a break of at least three years, preferably four.

If you repeat planting every year, both the head and its constituent teeth will become smaller and smaller. Keeping quality and taste will deteriorate. A five-year break guarantees not only the restoration of the soil resource, but also the eradication of pests and pathogens of a given crop.

Type of planting garlic	Culture
Spring	Tomatoes
	cucumbers
	Potato
	Beet
	Peas
	Beans
	Strawberry
	Green manure crops
Winter	lettuce
	Spinach
	Dill
	Leaf lettuce
	Arugula
	Rye*
	Peas*
	Alfalfa, clover*
	Buckwheat*
	Sweet clover*
	White mustard*
	Rape*

* - the crop is planted as green manure and mowed before flowering, leaving green mass on the bed.

Vegetable crop rotation table

After what to plant garlic?

It is best to choose a precursor culture for proper fruiting with long roots to be depleted by a short root system top layer soil rested and gained strength.

Before winter?

Winter barley will feel great in beds where green manure grains, with the exception of oats and barley, were harvested the day before. Good green manures are alfalfa and clover, soybeans, and other legumes: their powerful roots perfectly enrich the soil with nitrogen and loosen the densest clay substances.

Good predecessors would be:

• strawberry;
• pumpkin (cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini, squash, zucchini);
• cauliflower;
• cabbage of early varieties.

The following vegetables can be planted in front of garlic:

• medium cabbage;
• cabbage late varieties;
• nightshades (sweet peppers, eggplants, tomatoes).

But when planting them, you need to remember that they also need nitrogen for nutrition.

In July

In general, the list of good and relatively good predecessors is the same for the spring crop and the winter crop. Spring garlic will grow well in place of nightshades (except tomatoes), legumes, after harvesting greens, and leafy salads.

In the Moscow region

In the Moscow region and the central region of Russia, it is necessary to take into account the sowing time: due to the earlier onset of cold weather, garlic is planted for the winter not a month and a half before the first frost, but earlier.

Spring garlic is planted in early May, but not too late: late sowing will result in a decrease in yield.

According to gardeners near Moscow, garlic feels best after cucumbers, legumes, and strawberries. If you have melons (watermelons, melons) growing on your plot, you can sow garlic in this place.

It is strictly forbidden to plant garlic after garlic and all types of onions. Alliums pull potassium from the soil. Precursors such as root vegetables - potatoes, beets and carrots - have a bad effect on garlic. Carrots generally require the soil to rest after itself, since it is a very “gluttonous” crop. And potatoes and beets can leave behind fusarium, which safely affects garlic crops. Bad effects on garlic:

• radish;
• turnip;
• mint;
• celery;
• leaf lettuce.

What can't be planted after garlic?

You cannot plant garlic and all types of onions (onions, shallots, leeks, chives), wild garlic, etc. after garlic. It is undesirable to occupy former garlic beds with crops of carrots and beets. It is better not to plant cabbage seedlings of medium and late varieties in such beds, tomato seedlings. Turnips will also feel bad.

Garlic is good because the phytoncides and etherols it contains inhibit the development of fungal spores, therefore fungal diseases They are not found in those beds where garlic grows. In addition, this crop is an excellent fungicide and insecticide; harmful insects are also afraid of it. And this should be used when forming beds with crops.

Although carrots and garlic are bad predecessors for each other, if they are planted at the same time, they get along well and even help each other: for example, carrot pests such as psyllid and carrot fly do not tolerate garlic phytoncides.

All nightshades - tomatoes, peppers, eggplants - grow better and are less damaged with such a neighbor as garlic. And if you plant potato beds around the perimeter with garlic, the Colorado potato beetle will bypass them.

Garlic also has a very good effect on strawberries, repelling pests from the berries. And not only strawberries respond well to such a neighborhood: raspberry and currant bushes will not be “populated” by aphids, ants and bugs: the garlic aroma is completely unacceptable for them.

What to plant after harvesting garlic: video

Planting garlic with strawberries: video

Garlic, if you follow the correct fruit rotation, will delight you good harvest, which will be stored for a long time, saving everything useful qualities. Reasonable alternation of garlic with other crops will not preserve all its valuable qualities, but will also create favorable conditions for the successful growing season of other vegetable crops, as well as berries.

What are green manures and what are they for? Many gardeners do not quite understand the significance of their use in our gardens. I'll try to explain using my experience as an example.

We have already explained more than once both at seminars and in our club newsletter the role of organic matter in natural farming. This is both material for mulch, and food for soil inhabitants, and ultimately, after decomposition, food for our plants. One of the suppliers of organic matter (and the main one in my garden) is green manure.

Many people have a one-sided idea of ​​green manure as just green fertilizers (unfortunately, this is how they are presented in many publications for gardeners), but this is only one aspect of the use of green manure. Green manures bring much greater benefit as the creators of healthy, structural, and most importantly living soil in the truest sense of the word.

How do green manures contribute to this?

The powerful root system of green manure penetrates deep into the soil up to a meter or more (can a shovel or plow do this?), root exudates suppress many diseases, densely sown green manure suppresses weeds well. — The channels formed after the roots die off allow water and air to penetrate very deeply into the soil, and the roots of plants growing after green manure through these channels penetrate to such a depth where they can always find water. The above-ground part covers the surface of the soil from the scorching rays of the sun and creates necessary conditions for soil living creatures, and when it rains, drops of water do not compact the soil, since they break on the leaves and stems of plants and then quietly flow down to the ground.

When do I sow green manure?

Many gardeners have the opinion that green manure is sown only after the main crop has been harvested. This is a deep misconception. I sow from early spring (as soon as the soil thaws) until mid-September. For example, before planting seedlings of crops that are planted late (peppers, tomatoes, eggplants), it is useful to sow white mustard.

It grows very quickly and also disinfects the soil well. I plant the seedlings directly into the growing mustard, making holes in the middle of it. The plants grow together for a while, then I cut the mustard and use it as mulch. This summer I did not cut off the mustard completely, leaving about 10 cm. New shoots grew from the remaining stumps, which were cut off as they grew. And so several times the mustard served as a living mulch. I was pleased with the result, but I want to warn you if you are just starting to learn the basics natural farming and your soil is not completely restored, such experiments should not be repeated thoughtlessly. Start with a few plants.

Another example: after harvesting garlic and onions (early August), green manure is immediately sown. I like the vico-oat mixture with a little mustard.

There are two months ahead, or even more, a lot of greenery is growing and it all goes under the snow. In the spring, all that remains is to slightly loosen the soil and sow the seeds of some crop or again green manure for late seedlings.

Or, for example, calendula: unpretentious, blooms beautifully, sows itself, is not afraid of frost, disinfects the soil, drives away pests, how can you not take advantage of it. What about marigolds? I have had tulips growing in one place for many years. Why?

For several years now, this combination has worked well for me: dill, cabbage, bush beans (asparagus or grain). Dill is sown first, then cabbage seedlings (although for two years I have been sowing cabbage seeds directly into the ground) and the last beans. By the time the cabbage spreads its leaves over the entire garden bed, the dill and beans will have already been harvested. Dill, of course, for greens (but the roots remain), beans are frozen, but the tops remain, in addition, bacteria settle on the roots of legumes that can extract nitrogen from the air (and cabbage really needs it), so why not green manure?

But because immediately after digging up the bulbs, marigold seedlings are planted in this place and a little later mustard is sown. The mustard is cut off, and the marigolds continue to please the eye. By the time the bulbs were planted, the earth had already become healthy; all that remained was to dig up the marigold bushes with a large lump of earth, plant the bulbs in the holes and return the marigolds to their place, of course, by watering.

And finally the weeds! No, don’t be alarmed, I’m not suggesting breeding them on purpose. But not taking advantage of what has grown on its own is unforgivable. Keep them under control, don’t let them become overgrown, trim them once a week with a flat cutter and that will be enough.

One frequently asked question: “What to do with green manure when it grows? Dig it up!?”

Yes, under no circumstances, all the work you have done will be in vain! Sown in the second half of summer, they go under the snow. As for rye, my opinion is this: it’s still better to let it grow all summer, then you can get the maximum benefit from it, but decide for yourself.

Ildus Khannanov, Ufa