The dream of owning a house is often shattered by the financial possibilities of a person and his family, since the construction process and the cost of materials are beyond the reach of many. But modern builders claim that everything is not so deplorable, and building your own home is a very real task. Which house is cheaper to build, we will consider in the article.

What affects the cost of a cottage?

It is important to understand for what purposes you want to acquire a country house: for permanent year-round living or for staying in it only during the summer season. The following factors depend on this:

• space-planning solution;
• type of construction of the house;
• materials for the construction of building elements.

Which house is cheaper to build? If it is a country house, there is no need to arrange rooms for each family member in it, there are enough common areas with sleeping places, a kitchen, and a bathroom. If you want to build a house for permanent year-round use, it requires heating systems and walls made of more reliable and functional material that will not allow the premises to freeze in the winter.

Selecting and creating a project

In order to build a house yourself cheaply, once again without resorting to the services of professionals, it is important to correctly develop the future schemes of the object and think about how the work will be performed.

An affordable cottage should have a compact layout. The main principle is the maximum combination of total and usable area. How to achieve this?

1) Combine the hallway and vestibule, make the room insulated. This is an excellent solution, since they carry the same functional load.

• Panel length - up to 3000 (3500) mm, depending on the manufacturer's capabilities.
• Width - 1250-1500 mm.
• Thickness - 168, 174 mm for external walls; 118 mm - for a partition; 174, 224 mm - for floors.
• The mass of a standard plate 2500x1250x174 mm is about 50 kg. It turns out that a house with an area of ​​150 m 2 will weigh about 15 tons, which is 4-5 times lighter in comparison with stone materials.

The thickness of the panel is calculated taking into account all the temperature effects of the middle lane and the north; additional thermal protection is not required. For clarity, a 120 mm slab is equivalent in heat retention capacity to a brick structure 2.5 meters in cross section.

The disadvantages of the element include the inability to pass air and accumulate moisture with polystyrene foam. However, when protected with OSB boards and external cladding, this practically does not happen.

Issue price

In the question of what is cheaper to build a house from, sip panels definitely win.

The average cost of 1 plate 2500x1250x174 mm is about 3000 rubles. (on average - 1200-1300 rubles / m 2). This is much more affordable than the most famous traditional material - wood, respectively, you can build a frame house cheaply.

Do not forget that the cost of erecting such a structure, in addition to sip panels, includes the cost of the skeleton itself, which can be made of metal or wooden beams. It is obvious that the use of the latter is more profitable - natural raw materials are more accessible, it is easier to mount it.

You can build a frame house cheaply on a turnkey basis in many companies that provide such a service. The price of a small two-story cottage with a terrace is about 1,000,000 rubles. If you neglect the services of professionals, you can save up to 30-40% of this cost. True, the timing will not be the same ...

We build ourselves

Finally, the most important saving point is work without the participation of professionals. How to cheaply build a house with your own hands? Consider in order in general terms using the example of a frame structure.

The first step is to decide on the materials. We looked at what you can build a cheap house from, so choose according to your pocket. The most accessible type of structure is framed with sip panels, therefore, determine the required number of plates and the volume of beams for the frame according to the layout schemes and types of structures drawn up earlier.

Foundation

The right choice of the type and material of the foundation is the first stage of the algorithm for how to build a house cheaply. The price of the foundation is about 20-30% of the total cost of the entire house.

Under the frame house, you do not need to arrange a massive base: as already mentioned, the mass of the entire structure is about 15 tons (and even less in the case of economy planning: 8-10 tons). The best and cheapest option can be considered the installation of a columnar foundation. It can be mounted both independently and with the help of professionals. For concreting, it is enough to use a solution of the brand M200-M250.

Walls

To build a house yourself cheaply, you will have to try and do the most capacious part of the work yourself - the installation of the frame.

For the lower strapping, take bars with a section of 150x50 mm and lay them on the edge on the surface of the finished foundation, covered with roofing material. In the corners they are connected with screws 100-120 mm, they must be attached to the base itself with the help of anchors or large self-tapping screws. Boards of the middle and outer strapping are attached to the inner bars. You can use the cutting method at the ends of the boards, then they are mounted end-to-end.

Then the surface of the resulting level is leveled, recesses are made under the floor logs with a jigsaw and installed.

Bars 50x50 mm are fixed to the inside of the lower trim - floor boards will be attached to them.

Next, vertical racks are placed: notches are made on the outside of the strapping and the timber is fixed with the same self-tapping screws. Along the perimeter, the step between them is from 1 to 1.2 meters - it’s easier for an inexperienced assembler to connect all the components together and not make a mistake.

The fastening of the upper trim is similar to the lower one, the installation is carried out using metal corners.

You can often see cross planks between uprights. They are mounted to strengthen the structure with large spans or complex solutions, for an economy house this is not so important, we can do without them. But the slopes at the top and at the base of the rack can be installed.

When the frame is ready, you can make the sheathing with the panels themselves.

Thus, it is possible to build a frame house cheaply. The prices for materials are not too high, and you will do the work yourself.

Finishing

So that the miser does not pay twice, it is necessary to carefully isolate the external walls from environmental influences that can soak or destroy the structure of the sip panel. Plastering can act as a budget option for finishing, but first the surface must be pasted over with polystyrene foam. The price of 1 m 2 of such a cladding is about 700-900 rubles.

It is also good to use vinyl or PVC siding. Perhaps this is the cheapest way - about 400 rubles. per square meter.

Finishing with decorative plates or artificial stone will cost 900-1200 rubles / m 2. Such cladding of frame houses is rare: many believe that sip panels are not able to withstand this load, but this is a delusion.

The most expensive, but the most reliable and durable type of cladding is brick.

How to cheaply build a house with your own hands, we examined. Everything is much easier than it seemed.

To build or not to build?

We have found the cheapest way to build your own cottage. There is nothing difficult in this process, the main thing is to start. Then you can build a frame house cheaply in a relatively short time. Prices per square meter of such housing can vary, averaging 11,000 - 15,000 rubles, which is very cheap compared to other types of real estate.

Many criticize this type of house, believing that the material is short-lived and impractical. We have considered some properties of sip panels, they are more effective than other materials in some properties. Each material has weaknesses, and concrete can be criticized.

From what material it is cheaper to build a house, residents of America know firsthand. This type of housing is widespread on the continent in the northern regions, which clearly demonstrates its ability to withstand both temperature extremes and the effects of precipitation. Hence the name - "Canadian House".

Do not limit yourself in fulfilling the dream of your home! There is always a solution.

Having no financial opportunities to attract professional builders, you can, armed with special literature and patience, build a house on your own. In practice, this requires effort, but allows you to save up to half the cost of construction.

Many independent builders offer others to get acquainted with their projects and provide detailed reports, accompanying the process of building a house with detailed photographs.

Features of the layout of the house

Through the efforts of two men, a cheap house for permanent residence was built with an attached garage. Initially, the garage was not provided for in the project and was added after the completion of the house.

In general, the project, as the discussion progressed, changed on the advice of other builders and the requests of the wife. Initially, the layout of the house included 6 rooms on two floors.

During construction, it was decided to equip two bathrooms, while on the ground floor the toilet and bath should be separate. The area of ​​the living room and the location of the stairs have also changed. Relative to the initial project, the living room was too narrow and elongated. The stairs were also planned to be uncomfortable and steep. After the changes, these shortcomings are eliminated.

The cost of building a house with your own hands

In May 2010, the father of a small family planned to cheaply build a house with his own hands in the amount of 300 thousand rubles. This amount included the cost not only for materials, but also for connecting gas and electricity. The following expenses were incurred according to the budget:

1. Concrete - 20 700.
2. Edged and unedged timber - 70,000.
3. Styrofoam - 31 200.
4. Plywood - 8023.
5. Metal profile - 16 200.
6. Siding - 22 052.
7. Used windows - 4000.
8. Nails, screws, etc. — 15,000.
9. Delivery of material and excavator services - 5200.
10. Septic tank - 10000.
11. Plumbing, radiators - 35 660.
12. GKL and finishing costs - 21280.
13. Design and installation of a gas pipeline, connection fee - 37,000.
14. Gas equipment (stove, boiler) - 29,000.
15. Electricity connection with materials - 3000.
16. Water connection - 2000.

According to the builder himself, a certain number of items on the little things are missing in the estimate. However, this also requires additional costs. It should also be noted that some of the windows were received from friends and did not require financial costs. In total, 327,315 rubles were spent on building a house without trifles. This amount does not include the attached garage. He was attached later on a separate estimate. In addition, the construction of the garage required an amount of about 34,000 rubles. Taking into account unspecified expenses, the house cost no more than 400 thousand rubles.

Installation of a shallow strip foundation

A pre-planned foundation is 35 cm wide and 25 cm above the ground and 20 cm below the ground. A cutting section of 2.5x100 mm was chosen as a reinforcing element. The reinforcement of the tape was planned in 2 layers, top and bottom, with three connected die-cut sheets in each.

On the advice of experienced builders, vertical elements were added, and the number of sheets to be connected was increased to 5 pieces. Additionally, the height of the foundation above the ground increased and amounted to 45 cm.

notch reinforcement - you can’t do that!

After pouring the foundation into concrete, 20 anchor bolts were installed for mounting the lower trim.

Construction of the first floor

Before the installation of the walls of the first floor, a platform was installed and insulated and pipes for sewerage were laid. The bottom of the platform is left open, the insulation is fixed due to the fixed trimmings of the boards. As a platform insulation, 3 layers of foam plastic, 15 cm thick, were used. The draft floor is made of a board 150x50 mm.

The walls were mounted in a horizontal position. Styrofoam was laid between the posts and protection with 8 mm plywood, windows were also installed. The windows in the project were used second-hand. The installation of the assembled wall in a vertical position was carried out by two men. In the construction of the walls, it was decided to abandon the installation of jibs. The builder assumed that the rigidity of the frame would be sufficient due to the plywood sheathing.

After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of internal partitions was carried out. Styrofoam was also used as a heater.

The principle of assembling the second floor

After the installation of the strapping, a temporary floor was partially laid from unedged boards and the horizontal assembly of the walls and their vertical installation were carried out. Second floor windows were also used.

To increase sound insulation in the interfloor ceiling, non-woven cloth was laid on the floor logs under the boards. This allows you to partially dampen the vibration from steps.

Installation of rafters and roofs

At the end of the assembly of the walls of the attic floor, a truss system was installed. The overhangs of the rafters were not lengthened. An inch board was used as a crate. The roof was covered with a profiled sheet 4 m long.

Exterior finish of the building

Siding was used for the exterior of the building. It was mounted with a ventilation gap of 25 mm. Also at the stage of exterior decoration, an extension of the vestibule was completed. The foundation for the vestibule was not mounted, the structure was installed on pieces of concrete laid on the ground and sidewalk curbs.

Features of the stairs and its installation

The location of the stairs in the project caused a lot of controversy. Initially, its location suggested excessive emphasis on the attic ceiling. After changing the location and design of the stairs, it was made without a platform with a slight turn.

The staircase is made of boards 50x150 mm., step width 30 cm. The installation of the stairs was carried out after the rough finish of the first floor. Under the upper span, a place was left for equipping a toilet there. According to personal feelings, the staircase turned out to be comfortable and compact.

Interior decoration of the house

Before the start of finishing the premises, the insulation of the interfloor ceiling and the flooring of the second floor were completed. Felt is nailed between the joists and floor boards to increase the level of sound insulation. After that, a rough finish of the interior of both floors of a cheap house was completed.

The rough finish included three items:

1. Installation of fiberboard as a windscreen.
2. GVL installation.
3. Putty joints and chips GVL.

In the fine finish, staining with a water-based emulsion was mainly used. Living room, kitchen and bedrooms are painted in different colors. The floor in the rooms is covered with linoleum, the ceilings are finished with expanded polystyrene tiles.

This article is for those who want to significantly save on the cost of building a house. We will tell you how to choose the right project for an inexpensive house for permanent residence, what you can save the family budget on, and what you absolutely cannot save on.

Find out what determines the price of a cheap house, and what materials are best suited for the idea of ​​​​building your dream home.

Desire to build a budget house

Such a desire drives land owners to save on many things. On the one hand, it is understandable, because the idea is not a joke and requires a significant investment of money.

Warming is carried out using a thick layer of high-quality insulation 100 - 300 mm. In cold regions with very frosty winters, it makes sense to lay load-bearing walls from gas blocks, gas silicate, foam concrete with a density of 600 - 1200 kg / m³, since these materials retain heat quite well.

This will make it possible to insulate the walls with a smaller layer of insulation, but the thickness of the walls needs to be increased.

In climatic zones with mild and short winters, cheap houses can be built from foam concrete or gas blocks with single-layer walls. Log houses or log houses cannot provide good heat retention in the room.

Therefore, such houses need to be insulated, and this, in turn, “kills” at the root the whole idea of ​​the environmental friendliness of wooden housing, and there can be no talk of any “breathing walls”.

It is most profitable to build such houses as summer cottages, for seasonal use. But, those who are ready to pay for heating in a double or even triple volume can also afford a wooden house as a permanent residence.

What can not be saved when building a budget house?

Important! Capitalization of the house depends on the thickness of the load-bearing walls. The higher it is, the more reliable the design.

Surely the future owners of private houses wondered, for how long to build a house? So that it will be enough for their lifetime or will the grandchildren still get it?

There is a general service life of the building, and there is - before major repairs. Based on this, the house with a longer service life will cost more.

For capital buildings, materials with a long service life are selected, and they are correspondingly more expensive. Also, building materials with a high level of frost resistance are considered expensive.

The use of wood also increases the cost of construction.

Building a new home is always a big expense. Few people can afford to build without paying attention to estimates. Most often, you have to save money to fit into the budget. However, the savings must be reasonable, because the owner and his family will live in the new place. The building should be warm, dry, comfortable, pleasing to the eye. How to achieve this without overpayments? First of all, save on a team of workers. If the developer has the necessary skills, then everything or almost everything can be done by yourself. You can also choose inexpensive materials, available technologies, a standard project. What is the cheapest way to build a house with your own hands? What is worth saving on, and where is it better not to take risks?

Savings start with project selection. The more complex the architectural forms, the more expensive the construction. It is irrational to try to cut costs at the expense of workers, technical supervision or the quality of materials by initially choosing an expensive project.

It is better to clearly define the necessary living space, without depriving the family, but also without allowing yourself extra square meters, choose a simple roof shape. This will create a cozy home that fully meets the needs of the family, but without architectural "excesses" - a multi-pitched roof, bay windows, columns, arches.

It makes sense to consider construction options for a one- or two-story structure with a residential attic.

A residential attic is much more profitable than a separate floor. For the construction of the floor, more materials will be needed - for walls, insulation, decoration

If you choose lightweight building materials and suitable technologies for building walls, you can save on foundations. You will need a less powerful structure, plus the formwork can be made from substandard boards, used fiberboards.

The only thing that is undesirable to cut costs is cement. It needs to be bought of high quality, otherwise the strength of the structure will be a big question. The depth of the trench under the foundation must also correspond to the estimated weight of the building in order to avoid heavy settlement, which can lead to cracks in the walls.

What is most often used in construction:

• brick;
• timber;
• gas block

In the construction of houses and cottages, frame technology is increasingly being used. This is a promising method that allows you to build quickly and at minimal cost.

To find out what the building will cost the cheapest, you will have to calculate estimates for each of the options, because. the cost of the material itself is far from always an indicator of benefit. For example, opting for multipurpose resources can help reduce costs. The cost of hydro, vapor barrier "two in one" will ultimately cost less than buying two different types of insulation.

When calculating, one should proceed from the fact that the finished building should be comfortable for living, comply with heat saving and safety standards.

The advantages of a frame structure are in less time and labor costs for the construction of a building. The design is light, does not create an increased load on the foundation and does not require its strengthening

A dwelling using this technology is being built in terms of several weeks to several months, depending on whether the owner builds it himself or hires a team. Finished buildings are durable, resistant to deformation. The estimated service life is about 75 years.

Bearing structures are convenient for subsequent sheathing with finishing materials, because. all elements are unified. This significantly expands: siding, cassette panels, block house can be mounted on the walls. When sheathed, the strength of the entire structure increases without a significant increase in its weight.

Construction video

There are two main technologies, each of which has its own characteristics.

Frame-panel. What is the cheapest way to build a house? Collected by myself. Of course, this will require skills and equipment. Thanks to this type of construction, this is possible, although it will take a lot of time and additional money to buy insulation and other things. The frame is made of wood and sheathed with sandwich panels. Each part has to be mounted separately, which affects the timing and complexity of construction.

Frame-panel. This option is expensive, but reliable and requires much less labor. The design is assembled from ready-made shields, which are manufactured at the factory by special order. Shields are delivered already insulated and completely ready for assembly. If we compare the prices of panel and panel buildings, then the former are more expensive. However, the final cost may turn out to be the same if workers are invited to assemble frame-panel housing, because you have to pay for all types of work separately - assembly, sheathing, thermal insulation, finishing.

The assembled wooden frame already looks like a finished house. It only requires sheathing and finishing. Steam and waterproofing materials are installed in the walls of the structure at the factory, which helps to increase the life of the building

Undeniable advantages of technology:

• Profitability. Light weight is an obvious opportunity to save on the foundation, and short terms - on the payment of workers. It is believed that houses built using frame technology are the cheapest, but in many respects the cost-effectiveness depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bconstruction, the selected components, finishes, etc. Calculations by experienced engineers show that this is beneficial if the length of the building does not exceed 20 m, and the number of storeys is 3. Often, everything is decided by the project.
• High energy saving ratio. Designs quickly and efficiently warm up. The walls are made of materials with low thermal conductivity, thanks to which the structure retains heat well. The thickness of the wall can be 15-20 cm. Additional benefits include lower heating costs compared to a conventional building of the same area.
• No shrinkage. The walls of the structure are durable, resistant to deformation, they are highly rigid, and the house itself does not shrink. This also has a positive effect on the timing of construction: finishing work can begin immediately after the completion of the main work. Sheathing does not require additional processing, which reduces the cost of finishing.

Disadvantages or things to consider:

• To assemble such a structure, special knowledge and tools are needed. The qualifications of builders are of fundamental importance, so not every developer can do it on his own, and the team will have to be carefully selected.
• Wooden frames require additional treatment with compounds for biological and fire protection.

When choosing a project, special attention should be paid to ventilation. Artificial materials perfectly insulate, but from the point of view of environmental safety, they leave much to be desired. If the dwelling is small, then theoretically it is possible to get by with natural ventilation, but ideally, a system of normal air exchange should also be calculated and installed for it.

When mounting frame structures, "wet" technologies are not used. This feature is a big plus, because. allows you to work at any time of the year

Tightness is one of the main advantages of a frame house, because. serves as a guarantee of good thermal insulation. But it also has a downside - a violation of air exchange. So that human waste products, dust and other factors do not worsen the microclimate in the building, do not reduce the amount of oxygen in the air, it is necessary to design a high-quality ventilation system

What to make from:

• Wood. Despite all kinds of processing, wood is exposed to moisture, microorganisms. On average, such a frame serves up to 60 years and is inferior to metal counterparts in terms of strength, lightness, and resistance to destructive environmental factors.
• Metal. For manufacturing, a light thermal profile is used. Its advantages are excellent fire resistance, low weight, corrosion resistance. Metal parts are not subject to attack by fungi and mold. All this can increase the service life of structures up to 100 years.

What is cheaper to build? When drawing up an estimate, a clear advantage will be behind a wooden frame. However, if we “look into the future” and take into account the higher performance properties of the thermal profile, then its service life fully pays for the costs.

The foundation can be chosen tiled, columnar or tape, depending on the type of soil. You can save on an easy-to-install roof - gable or attic. The choice is up to the builder.

Material on the construction of a veranda in a frame-type cottage may also be useful:

1 sq. m metal frame weighs 30-50 kg, with sheathing - about 200 kg. The small specific gravity of the finished house allows you to build on unstable soils. The profile is also used in the reconstruction of buildings with heavily worn load-bearing structures.

Option # 2 - brick building

Brick is one of the most popular. Houses made of it can hardly be called cheap. The walls have to be made thick, plus they require additional insulation, which leads to an even greater increase in the cost of structures. The weight of the finished structure is large, so the foundation needs to be really strong. It is done to the entire depth of soil freezing.

It's hard to save money on it. The disadvantages include long, laborious construction. However, the durability of structures, their fire safety and practicality largely offset the costs.

If you look at the prices for the construction of a solid building on the websites of specialized companies, you get the impression that the cost is low. However, even the price of turnkey construction does not include fine finishing: installation of flooring, interior doors, plumbing fixtures, etc.

If you do all this yourself, then only the cost of purchasing materials should be added to the cost. If you need to hire workers, then also pay them. Construction is profitable only if the owner of the site initially correctly selected the project and can perform most of the work on his own.

Video: about brick for buildings

Option # 3 - aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete block is a worthy competitor to traditional brick. Building a box is much more profitable than building it. The wall thickness can be reduced by 1/3 without loss of thermal insulation properties. The material itself is noticeably lighter, which allows savings due to the foundation. An additional "bonus" for the owner of the house is good sound insulation.

A dwelling made of aerated concrete blocks "breathes", air exchange is not disturbed in it, because. through pores. However, for the same reason, blocks are considered not the best option in terms of waterproofing. If construction is carried out in violation of technology, the finished structure can also be blown through. You need to pay attention to the finish.

As for the construction time, an aerated concrete structure can be erected 2-3 times faster than a brick one, it practically does not shrink. To connect the blocks, special adhesives are used. In this case, it is undesirable to use a conventional cement mortar, because. it gives thick seams, which can cause the formation of "cold bridges".

One of the disadvantages of aerated concrete blocks is the relatively low frost resistance, so you have to take care of a quality finish. As materials, you can use plaster, siding, stone

Option # 4 - economical timber buildings

For the developer, timber is more profitable than anything else. If we compare timber and brick walls in terms of heat-saving properties, it turns out that a structure made of spruce with a thickness of 220 mm and brick with a thickness of 600 mm will be equally warm. Usually, a 200 mm beam is taken for construction, a 100 mm thick insulation is used and a plaster layer of 20 mm is applied.

The advantages of the beam:

• profitability;
• fast construction (built in a few weeks);
• simple technology;
• environmental Safety;
• excellent thermal insulation;
• comfortable microclimate;
• lightness of construction.

If you choose what is cheaper to build a house from, then timber is a win-win option. It is profitable, and the technology is simple, and almost any owner of the site can master it, if he already has the skills of the construction business.

When building houses from a bar, you need to carefully design heating and power supply systems. Buildings are considered fire hazardous. Also, the tree is afraid of moisture, therefore, it requires protection from dampness and fungus.

Compare prices per square meter

How and from what it is cheapest to build can be seen in the figures of the estimates. If the calculations are based on average indicators (the depth of soil freezing is 1.5 m, groundwater is 2.5 m, sandy loamy soil), then we can determine the cost of building 1 square meter. Depending on the components, the numbers will be as follows:

• frame construction - 875 rubles;
• brick - 2330 rubles;
• aerated concrete - 2000 rubles;
• timber - 1900 rubles.

Review of popular materials - video

Obviously, a frame house will cost the developer the cheapest. When finally deciding on the choice, you need to take into account all the features of the project, the soil, the site itself. The calculations do not include payment for the services of the construction team. Hired labor is an additional (and considerable!) item of expenditure.

Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house make it possible to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will turn out to be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. M) and difficult to build on your own.

The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:

Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.

The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.

A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage.

Unburied

An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm.

Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week.

buried

The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: it makes no sense to lay a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of TISE piles normally work in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required.

A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installation of a frame house

The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are huge:

• No preliminary geological surveys are required.
• Geo-screws can be wrapped in rather heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or a piece of concrete with a child's head will push the screw to the side.
• Special equipment and access roads for it are not needed: 2 people with a crowbar or a home-made collar from a piece of pipe wrap up to 10 or more geo-screws per day.
• Preparatory earthworks are not required: the screw is simply placed with its end in the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. Align vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third - half.
• Screwed geoscrews can be turned in/out to align the heads to the horizon.
• There is no need for a technical break for foundation settlement - construction can be continued as soon as the last screw is wrapped.
• An incorrectly wrapped screw can be unscrewed and wrapped again close to the old well.

Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What house to build?

We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way:

1. House from a military kung;
2. House-hut;
3. Bungalow house;
4. Frame house.

When not to excess

KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

• Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
• The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction change house, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
• High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kung have been standing almost without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not visible to demolition.
• Fire safety is built in.
• Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input board (VS) and terminals for grounding connection.
• Ample opportunities for redevelopment, interior equipment and decoration (see below).
• No legal clearance or installation permit is required. Bought - brought - delivered - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.:

There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all.

In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure:

Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house

But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of ​​heat loss of a hut house is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

1. They lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
2. The supporting A-frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130 ... 150) x40 lying on the plaza - any fairly solid flat surface;
3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for skewness and in size, this is extremely important for a hut house;
4. The verified frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, set vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
6. When all the frames are right, they fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge run, also from a pair of boards;
7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal screeds;
8. At the puff level (cross tie of the A-frame), the ceiling is assembled; without it, the house will not be strong;
9. The floor of the house is assembled according to the usual technology for wooden houses;
10. Sheathe the wings of the frame with 40 mm boards lengthwise, highly preferably tongue-and-groove;
11. Assemble the frames of window and door openings;
12. Sheathe facades;
13. Produce other required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”.

Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size.

Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed.

Bungalow and… bungalow

In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages:

• In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for sheathing, because. unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (sheathing), up to unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
• The bungalow house is very different and can be built on a non-buried foundation on soils up to and including strongly heaving.
• In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the penetration of atmospheric moisture into the sheathing is minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps.

Bungalow like bungalow

Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat.

The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed.

Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure:

The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor.

Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step.

The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order:

1. Assemble the bottom frame on the foundation;
2. Racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
3. Assemble the upper frame on racks;
4. Pioneer holes are drilled for the brackets (marking - by the brackets themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the mustache of the staple, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the mustache;
5. The grooves are chosen under the shelves of brackets, because. staples must be recessed into the tree;
6. Staples are baited with a hammer;
7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and put the top steel fasteners;
8. Finish off the staples with a sledgehammer;
9. Produce wall cladding;
10. Temporary braces are removed and other work is done.

Skeletons

The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.:

The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:

Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house

It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.