When building a furnace, it is very important to correctly install furnace appliances. This will protect you and give you the pleasure of watching the quietly crackling firewood or coal in the furnace.

Furnace devices - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, grate, gate (furnace) valves - are installed to regulate the combustion process and ease the operation of furnaces.

Before installing the door, check for:

♦ tight fit of the canvas to the frame;

♦ free rotation of the web in hinges;

♦ no distortion;

♦ the possibility of fixing their closure;

♦ the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

The gate of the furnace valve must move freely in the grooves and close the hole tightly, the frame must not have cracks.

When installing furnace appliances, it must be remembered that metal and brick, when heated, expand unequally. This especially affects the behavior of those devices that will be installed in high temperature areas. If they are tightly walled up in brickwork, when the temperature rises, they will tear it. Therefore, the grate, the furnace door, the oven and the cast-iron floor plate are installed so that when heated, free space is provided.

their expansion without affecting the masonry. To do this, the grate is placed in an opening with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides (Fig. 108).

The grate must be freely removed for replacement in case of burnout or breakage. It is laid without mortar, and the grooves are filled with sand.

The installation of the furnace door deserves special attention, since it is most susceptible to thermal expansion, and at the same time it must be installed so that the furnace space tightly overlaps and its reliable fastening in the masonry is ensured. Secure the furnace door with clamps made of strip steel (Fig. 109). From below, you can fasten it with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.8-2.0 mm, but you must definitely close it with a solution. In the vertical part, it is difficult to protect the wire from exposure to high temperatures - it will quickly burn out.

Clamps are made from strip steel. Clamp ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame. Fasten the clamp to the frame with rivets. Pieces of steel wire with a diameter of

live so that they fall into the seams of the masonry. Check the level of the door - the top bar of the frame must be horizontal - and fix it with a wooden lath. Put one end of the rail on the door frame, the other on 3 bricks laid flat, and put a brick on top of the rail.

According to the order, lay the bricks on the mortar, starting the laying of each row from the door, gradually closing it in the oven array.

Install the blower and cleaning doors in the same way, secure with soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.0 mm, laying its ends into the seams of the masonry. The blower door is little affected by high temperature - its expansion is insignificant, and since it must hermetically cover the underfloor space, it is tightly walled up in masonry, sealing all the seams with clay mortar. It is necessary to strictly check the horizontalness of the sides of the frame according to the level.

Ovens are usually made from sheet steel. Therefore, when heated, they will warp strongly if gaps are not left for expansion. They are installed according to the level, the frame is wrapped with moistened sheet asbestos half a brick wide, the asbestos layer can be increased, so long as the upper plane coincides with the plane of the laying of a row of bricks along which the ceiling is made.

A cast-iron stove is laid on a kitchen and heating and cooking stove strictly according to the level. To lay it in the bricks of the upper row, a groove is cut to fit the plate with a gap of 5 mm on each side. You can not even clamp one of the sides of the plate - when heated, the opposite side will warp. It is better * to lay the slab on clay-asbestos mortar. To prepare such a solution, a liquid clay pulp is made, asbestos chips are added to it, bringing the solution to the desired consistency. The top of the stove around the perimeter is rubbed with the same solution.

Gate valves are laid in such a way as to ensure the tightness of the overlap of the channel or chimney. Grooves are cut out in bricks for a frame with a small gap

rum for expansion. It is good to lay valves on clay-asbestos mortar.

The construction of a brick oven requires the installation of grates, valves and doors, each of which has its own purpose. The components, especially the furnace door, must be installed in accordance with all the rules, because the quality of the structure depends on it. Installation of all furnace elements requires a responsible approach.

What is a fire door?

Doors for ovens are indispensable attributes in the construction of stone structures. Thanks to the door, the oven becomes more efficient, including:

• reduces warm-up time;
• saves fuel;
• burnt coal or firewood does not fall on the floor.

How to choose?

It can be equipped with furnace doors made of various materials, the features of which are presented in the table:

Name	Advantages	Flaws
Cast iron	An air intake pipe from the room is connected, thereby guaranteeing the complete tightness of the fuel chamber	The term of use is lower than the rest
	You can buy a door or make your own
Iron	Holds heat well, has a high level of fire safety	Should be periodically coated with anti-corrosion heat-resistant paint
	Relatively inexpensive cost
	Will last a long time, no need to repair or replace the furnace door
Glass	Can withstand high temperatures for a long time	It gets dirty very quickly and is quite fragile, so you should be extremely careful when installing.
	Good from an aesthetic point of view, because through it you can watch the fire
	Non-explosive due to the use of quartz and crystalline ceramics

Preparing to install the furnace door in a brick oven

The door must open and close freely.

Some doors may be very difficult to open and close. Therefore, before you start the installation, you should develop it in order to make it more convenient to use in the future. But there are still some details that are clarified before starting work:

• Check the fit to the frame, while avoiding distortions. The rotation of the canvas must be free.
• The movement of the gate valve occurs without difficulty and completely closes the hole. There should be no cracks in the frame.
• If only coals will be used for the furnace, then a hole of 13-18 mm in size is made in the gate.

Mounting types

The installation process of the furnace door must be taken with all seriousness, since it undergoes thermal expansion more than other components. It should be fastened securely and so that the space of the brick oven completely overlaps. There are several ways to mount the door in brickwork.

On the wire

For mounting, nichrome wire is optimal.

There are times when the furnace has to be disassembled and reassembled due to the fact that the furnace door has fallen out. This happens when it is attached with aluminum wire or stranded wires. Stove makers with extensive experience are advised to use nichrome material, as it is flexible and quite heat resistant. To install the door in this way you need:

• Pass the wire through special holes in the door frame (if there are none, you can easily drill it). The product should be 2-3 times smaller than the masonry seams.
• Place the wire in the masonry at an angle to the opening force. In this way, the door will not fall out.

Without secrets, there is no skill. By sharing the secret of how to install furnace casting, we will help you make durable, high-quality furnaces and become a sought-after stove maker. Tips from an experienced master for a beginner stove-maker.

If you decide to build a stove with your own hands, then the question arises on the topic: how best to fix the stove door. This is understandable: it is used more often than other furnace casting elements and is more exposed to high temperatures. Hence the problems: a poorly fixed or incorrectly installed furnace door can fall out and destroy the brickwork.

There are several mounting methods stove door: on wire, on rivets and bent stainless steel plates, on anchors. It will be useful here practical advice on the construction of furnaces.

The most common fastening methods in the past were riveting with nails on a steel strip. By the way, steel strips could be found at any owner, as they were hoops from wooden barrels.

The materials have changed since then, but the principle has remained the same: they knit, rivet, put on bolts. Added to the same knitting needles and anchor bolts. What to choose, you decide with the customer, taking into account the casting material and the design of the furnace.

For domestic doors, plant on a black or steel strip, after riveting it to the door. We fasten the woven wire to the edges of the strip and brick it into the masonry. Instead of a wire, you can bend the strip itself at a right angle, lay it in the masonry. Take this matter seriously: so that the door does not loosen, the wire must be soft, annealed, tightly twisted, evenly stretched, long enough (a meter or more) so that it does not slip out of the masonry. This method is reliable, but replacing such a door will not be easy. The ideal would be an option in which the door can be easily dismantled if necessary.

If you have purchased Finnish casting, then anchors, or knitting needles, already go to it as fasteners. Stove builders know that when heated, the anchor expands. Therefore, make holes for the bolts slightly larger than the diameter of the anchor so that it does not break the casting.

Finnish furnace casting

If you are planning in the future line the oven, then it becomes necessary to install the door in such a way that it can be pushed forward by the thickness of the cladding. In this case, the door tied to the stove masonry does not suit us, that is, we do not use either wire or bolts.

One way is to fix the door with an L-shaped metal strip, which is tucked towards the inner lining of the furnace. The thickness of such a strip is 1 mm. Lay the seal in the corner to prevent destruction from heat at the point of contact with the masonry.

Finnish fireplace doors are mounted on steel spokes. This method is similar to wire fastening, only instead of wire - knitting needles. Natural from a motorcycle or bicycle. Just insert the needles into the holes, lay them on the bricks in a horizontal seam. The head of the spoke is in the hole in the door. It can be twisted to tighten the door, or unscrewed altogether if dismantling is required.

The Finns have been attaching doors to steel corners for a long time. Such a mount can be dismounted easily and simply. For those who are interested, I send you to the book by Juhani Keppo “Brick stoves and fireplaces. Masonry.

Doors that are not subject to heating - this is a blower, cleaning - put on knitting needles, anchors. Here you can not be afraid of destruction from the difference between the expansion coefficients of the fasteners and the furnace masonry.

Brick cutting "on the mustache"

Protect the pokes of the red brick with a “mustache” cut. In this case, the fireclay brick will reach the very door.
Sometimes, when there are no corners, you have to order them. With stainless steel tin, you can also get out - just buy a pipe and straighten it. That is, there are no hopeless situations with materials for the installation of furnace casting.

So stock up on corners, metal screws, “bugs”, thick basalt cardboard, or, even better, a Finnish park.

If in your area such wealth never happened, then wire and gags will do. Clamps are called tin strips about 30 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. Glue them with trimming nails to the doors using the holes in the doors. Plus - do not stretch like a wire.

Clammers

Hingeless doors can be placed in "cold" places - that is, in the blower and cleaning passages on silicone sealant. Black holds temperatures up to 300 ° C. In the cleaning holes, you can even use ordinary sealant, up to 150 ° C. Grab it so that you want, but you can’t pull it off ...

The furnace door in a brick oven is one of the most important elements that directly affects the durability and efficiency of the structure. With its help, fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, the combustion process is regulated and all this is done with great comfort. It would seem - what's so complicated? In fact, unpleasant surprises are not uncommon - after a few months, or even earlier, the door begins to dangle, large targets appear around it and brick crumbles, which can lead to disastrous consequences. Consider how to fix the door to a brick furnace.

How to install a furnace door?

• Cast iron. They are not popular due to their large weight, difficulty in installation and fear of high temperatures.
• From stainless steel. Most often found in sauna stoves, because they confidently tolerate contact with water.
• Glass. The most attractive option is excellent performance, as well as the ability to observe the combustion process.

Installing the furnace door of a brick oven is a responsible task. It must be understood that under the influence of high temperatures, the metal expands, which as a result can lead to breaks in the masonry if it is made too tightly. Therefore, during the installation of metal elements, a small gap should be left.

Before proceeding with the installation, you should inspect the door and the frame to it (as a rule, they are included) for damage, distortion, and the opening should be easy. If the stove is coal, then a 13 mm hole must be drilled in the product to remove gases. Since the door is subjected to the greatest mechanical and thermal stress, each mounting option must be performed in strict accordance with the technology and installation rules.

In this case, it is recommended to use nichrome wire, since it is characterized by high heat resistance, high ductility and durability. Before installation, it must be attached to the door frame, in which, as a rule, there are special holes (if not, then you need to pre-drill them). The diameter of the wire is selected depending on the thickness of the seam in the masonry and should be 2–3 times smaller. For the stability and reliability of the installation, the wire is immured with at least 2 bricks, while keeping it in a taut state, which makes the whole process very time consuming.

The modern and most common method due to its simplicity and high reliability of the result. The design is made from a corner and has the same geometric dimensions as the door, while one side is placed between the bricks, and the second - directly into the masonry, after which it is covered with mortar. Process features:

• Protection of joints and masonry from high temperatures is provided by silicon thermal insulation. In addition, it compensates for the expansion of the metal when heated.
• The best stability is achieved by self-tapping screws that are screwed into the brick.

Reliable fixation with self-tapping screws or bolts

The method is the least popular and is considered not the most reliable, since the design of the door and frame has considerable weight, especially if they are made of cast iron. Before installation, holes are drilled in the masonry with a frame, after which the installation takes place with fixation with self-tapping screws or bolts.

IMPORTANT. Be sure to leave a small gap between the brick and the masonry, because with the thermal expansion of the metal, the self-tapping screws can deform and disrupt the entire structure.

Despite the fact that each of the methods is simple and does not require certain skills and abilities, it is still worth paying attention to some points:

Regardless of the chosen method, the key to reliable fastening and long-term operation is the careful and responsible performance of work, as well as the use of reliable materials. Remember that the stove is made for decades and saving in this case simply does not make sense.

So, last time we examined the general algorithm of work for self-repair of a brick oven and settled on the repair or replacement of furnace doors.

It was point 4.2. It should be noted that almost all problems with furnace doors are rarely independent and, as a rule, they are accompanied by a complex of problems: problems with brickwork around the furnace door, destruction and cracking of bricks, chipping and destruction of seams.

Often, these bricks are either completely or partially destroyed and also require replacement. Therefore, in the beginning, before installing a new or replacing an old door, you will need to replace the bricks. How to do it? It depends on the way you choose to install the door.

Reliable and durable sealing of the furnace door in a brick wood-burning stove

There are several methods that are discussed in detail in various sources, I will only briefly describe them: the first method is classic and very common - on a wire. In the photo below, this wire is clearly visible, I will only note that here I captured the process of dismantling the old door and partially dismantling the masonry

For best results, I use nichrome wire - nichrome. This is the X10H80 steel grade. It has good plasticity and heat resistance. As practice shows, such a wire "stands" in furnaces for decades without any problems. In its absence, you can (?) Use other steels, but I strongly do not recommend this. In my practice, when repairing old furnaces, I even met furnace doors fixed on copper wire. The process itself: a wire with a diameter smaller (two to three times, approximately) is attached to the door frame than the thickness of the masonry joints of your furnace. The vast majority of furnace doors already have holes for attaching the wire. However, if you suddenly come across a door frame without holes or you find the factory location inconvenient, this is not a problem. Cast iron is generally very well machined. You can drill the holes you need with standard metal drill bits - usually with HSS tips. Do not forget to cool the drill in emulsion (oil) - this way it will last much longer. The obvious disadvantage of this method of installing doors and other cast-iron fittings is the high labor intensity: you need to brick the wire in tension into the masonry for a sufficient length. Each case is individual, but as a rule, this must be done no less than two bricks in length. And this is already a very large area of ​​\u200b\u200bmasonry for a bulkhead, given that you will also have to replace the rows from above.

More advanced methods of installing furnace doors involve the use of stainless steel sheet, either cut with special plates with flanging, which will hold the door catching on the masonry and subsequently these plates are screwed with self-tapping screws into pre-drilled holes, or onto a solid shell pre-fabricated and installed on the door frame. In the second case, the thickness of the stainless sheet is less than in the case of installation on plates. For the greatest reliability, it is possible to combine one of the latter methods with the first. The first method, using wire, and the second, using a shell, involve a partial but significant disassembly of the masonry and possibly preparation by sawing bricks into pieces to the required size. This means that a door, for example with a stainless shell, is inserted into the masonry opening - accordingly, this is done by moving it from top to bottom and you need space from above, since four shell planes have already been bent beforehand. Do not forget to place between the stainless steel and the brickwork, on all adjoining planes, a thermally insulating fireproof material (silica fiber or the like). It is needed not only to protect against high temperatures, but also to ensure damping of the cyclic linear expansions of the metal when heated. There is also a way to install the door only on self-tapping screws (or bolts), but personally I categorically do not recognize it, assuming its extremely low reliability. Of the general recommendations, it is worth noting that it is worth noting that the door should be tightly installed in the masonry and sealing the cracks with a clay-sand mortar - the fact is that the door heats up both strongly and quickly, due to high thermal conductivity, therefore, when expanding, it can damage the brick, leading to its cracking and destruction of the masonry seams.

Sealing such gaps should be done with non-rigid refractory, which I described in the first part of this article. In any case, when manipulating the masonry, one should be careful and remember that ligation of the common array, due to which it is held due to the distribution of the load, is not a panacea and collapse is possible, therefore, excavation of bricks to be replaced must be done with caution, in some cases by installing props and other assistive devices. I sometimes use a simple car jack and a few planks, but this is already in the category of little tricks.

I was a little carried away by the story of plumbing and unfairly deprived of attention to the skill of a bricklayer. Here are some important tips and tricks:

In general, when replacing doors and other fittings, you will have a relatively small amount of masonry work, but no less responsible. Follow all necessary and known recommendations for the selection and preparation of material. Laying must be carried out with dressing - that is, the vertical seams of vertically adjacent rows should not be on top of each other, here is an example in the picture.

Even a primitive or not quite neat “castle” made of bricks over a doorway is better than just masonry. And it is not at all permissible to leave the brick entirely hanging over the opening, for example, on some kind of metal plate. Like in this image:

Good advice - take advantage!

When you make a partial repair of the furnace, with the dismantling of its individual elements, as a rule, it is possible to clean its hard-to-reach places.

This opportunity must be used. So, in the case of removing either the door or the hob, the high zone and the space after it become available to you. Hailo is a hole in the firebox through which flue gases escape. In practice, it has been noticed that in the zone after the hail, on horizontal surfaces, a fairly large amount of ash accumulates. It can be easily removed by hand, using an improvised tool.

Replacing, installing other furnace fittings, such as blower and cleaning doors, is a much simpler operation, with the possible exception of replacing various types of valves, but a separate article will be devoted to this very difficult issue.

4.3. Firebox repair. One of the most vulnerable and responsible places in the furnace - after all, it is there that the combustion of fuel occurs and it is there that the bricks are subject to the greatest thermal loads, therefore it is not surprising that they are destroyed first of all, especially if the firebox is not lined with refractory bricks and is made of ordinary, "red » kiln bricks. This is an even more complex and responsible type of repair. It’s good if you are repairing a “Swede” (a heating stove with cast-iron flooring) and have the opportunity to freely replace old bricks with new ones. The situation with the heating stove is much more complicated (the “Dutch” stove (golanka, galanka, gulanka and other variations of the name, from which my ears curl into a tube ...), the firebox of which does not have a “visible end” in height and most likely a certain construct is based on it a convective oven system in the form of an afterburner, a bread chamber and / or a smoke box, or just a system of channels - as is most often the case. In simple terms, this is just a heating stove. Sometimes they are called a column. Note that this oven, this "column" can be not only square in the perimeter, but also rectangular. It directly depends on what kind of room this stove heats. So, if you decide to do it yourself repairing the firebox, I categorically do not recommend doing this without insurance - a partner. Please follow the precautions and safety A stove, especially an aged one, can bring many unpleasant surprises and the apparent strength of the outer surface of the masonry can be effective. only visible. In addition, masonry refractory mortars do not always make it easy to remove bricks, many of them are sintered, turning the firebox or part of the bricks into a single whole. Therefore, not as self-promotion, but solely assuming good intentions, I would advise you to trust this type of repair to professionals, and even better, to the stove-maker who built this stove for you. All this equally applies to the repair of the roof of the Russian stove, which is part of its firebox and has the highest complexity in terms of repair, since the laws of dressing and load distribution work there differently than in simple vertical brickwork. In simpler terms, the vault can collapse, fold like a house of cards, even if a single brick or even a piece of it or the remains of a burnt brick is removed from it. In the general case, the repair of a firebox is the replacement of bricks. The scale of such repairs is purely individual, depending on the quality of the raw materials, the professionalism of the stove-maker who built and repaired the stove later. Very often, it is on the basis of the critical wear of the firebox that one has to make a decision on the complete dismantling of the furnace. But usually, everything can be repaired and restored. If the firebox was not lined, then burnt and collapsed bricks are replaced and, if necessary, lining is made, for example, as in this photo (this is the same furnace as in the first photo), or the old lining is simply changed, if it was provided.

In this case, bricks of the ShA-6 brand were used for lining. These bricks will protect the red, non-refractory bricks of the furnace wall and slightly increase the heat capacity. Unfortunately, they will also somewhat reduce the volume of the firebox, but this sacrifice is forced and the negative effect of it is much less than the destruction of the bearing wall of the furnace. Also, this problem is solved quite easily - with one, two additional poles during the firebox. There are other options for protecting the firebox, but I will talk about them next time, at the beginning of the next article. Stay tuned for updates on the site!

Good day to all, readers of our site often ask me how to protect the outer cladding stoves, fireplaces or outdoor barbecues from the high temperatures of the firebox, because even with a lining and a basalt layer, the firebox door will transfer heat to the brick. They also ask where to get a door with a large metal box.

Unfortunately, manufacturers of furnace doors, in order to reduce the cost of production, do not make doors with such boxes; stove-makers have to make them with their own hands. First of all, you need to buy heat-resistant stainless steel 0.5-1 mm thick, preferably with a mirrored inner surface. For example, to install a 21x25 furnace door in the video, it took me 0.5 mm steel with a thickness of 94x25 cm around the perimeter, the price of such metal varies from 300 to 1000 rubles. Next, I made the cuts with a rosette, bent the steel in the shape of a box and welded it into 2 joints. Next, I made 4 holes with a drill opposite the holes in the cast-iron door and screwed it onto 4 mm galvanized bolts. I also fixed a strip of metal from the top of the door for greater reliability. Next, I sawed off the extra length of the bolts with a grinder and proceeded to install the door in the cauldron of the summer complex with a superstrength gasket, you can see this process in the video. solution, also gives a good and durable fixation of the door, in addition, it allows you to better reflect heat from the door back into the firebox.

Good afternoon to the readers of our site, in this article I am starting a section of video lessons related to laying stoves. Since the installation of the ash chamber door is the first element of the furnace fittings along the way kiln masonry , let's start with it.

Installation of the furnace door in brickwork

A feature of the blower doors is, firstly, not high working temperatures (less than 100 degrees), due to which it does not have thermal expansion and its fasteners do not burn over time. For this reason, they are installed close to the brick without gaps on the clay mortar, it is considered sufficient to mount them on a simple bending wire with a diameter of about 1 mm and a length of 60 cm. It is passed through the holes in the door and twisted with a pigtail leaving a fork at the ends. Next, the wire is walled up in brickwork with clay mortar. If you do not fully understand what I am writing about or you are simply not interested, just watch a short video in which I describe this process in detail. Remember that no matter which door you choose, if it is cast iron and Russian-made, sooner or later it will rust and stop opening , it is better to pre-clean it and paint it with any heat-resistant paint, it is better, of course, from the company “you smoked”. If there is no desire to spend money on painting, you can dissolve oven soot in any oil or drying oil and lubricate the blower door with it, the effect will be a little similar.

When choosing an ash chamber door, proceed from your financial capabilities and the size of the firebox, furnace and pipe. For a small furnace up to 2-3 kW with a small grate 18x25, it is better to use small doors 13x13, this will slightly increase the efficiency of the furnace. Remember also that a small 13x13 door DP-1 costs only about 170 rubles, while 13x25 doors will cost from 450 rubles. If you have the opportunity to replace Russian iron castings with Finnish ones, this will be a big plus for you in the future. Finnish casting does not rust, does not burn out and does not burst from temperatures, like ours, and this is not surprising. In any case, when choosing a blower door, remember that this is the least weak element of the furnace and in 99 cases out of 100 nothing will happen to it except rust, it is better to save on a blower door than on brick and furnace lining.