You will need

• - miter box;
• - hacksaw;
• - wooden blank;
• - protractor;
• - pencil;
• - a clamp or screws and a screwdriver.

Instructions

Prepare a corner template that will help you easily make an accurate cut of a piece of wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This device is a profile in the form of an inverted letter “P”; On its sides there are through slots for a hacksaw. They are usually located at angles of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex miter boxes are additionally equipped with arbitrary fixed slots, or have a rotating design - it allows you to install the saw in the optimal position.

Buy ready-made carpentry tool at a hardware store with a wooden, metal or plastic tray. For a novice master this is best option. If desired, you can make a simple miter box from three planed boards or plywood strips (thickness - about 1.5-2 cm).

Drill several holes in the walls of the future miter box, apply wood glue to the ends and assemble the box (tray) of the miter box. Secure the corner template with screws. The walls of the instrument must lie strictly parallel to one another; the bottom and each side form clear perpendiculars.

Mark a 45 degree angle with a pencil, add if necessary additional lines grooves To avoid mistakes in your calculations, use a protractor.

The most important thing is the slots. It is recommended to perform them with the same hacksaw that will subsequently be used to make cuts in the finished miter box. Start sawing without putting too much pressure on the working tool and hold the blade. First saw through one side, then the opposite.

Start processing lumber. Secure the miter box to a workbench or work table with a clamp (clamps for fixing parts) or screws. Then make a mark for the future cut on the slats (boards, plinths) and place the workpiece in the box. Press it firmly against one of the side walls of the template, aligning the marks with the 45-degree angle slot.

Insert the hacksaw into the grooves of the miter box and cut the workpiece. The saw will be limited to fixed cuts and you will get a clean and precise cut.

When cutting skirting boards, make sure that the corners in the room are really straight. If the walls are very uneven, the angle of the cut on the workpieces should be adjusted. Measure the joints with a goniometer interior walls and divide the result in half (the joint of the skirting boards is “miteral”). To make an accurate cut, it is recommended to make grooves with a given angle in a homemade miter box. Another option is a magazine rotary tool, which allows you to change the angle from 0 to 180 degrees in approximately 15-degree increments.

This tool is a profile in the form of an inverted letter U. On the sides there are slots for sawing at an angle of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex corner templates or miter boxes have devices for setting different cutting angles.

For an inexperienced craftsman, the best option would be to purchase a ready-made miter box at a hardware store. At home, it can be made from three planed boards or plywood.

The tool can be assembled by fastening pre-prepared parts together. The corner template box must be secured using wood glue or screws. The side walls of the miter box must be strictly parallel to one another. The horizontal beam should create a strict perpendicular to the side beams.

Step 3: we mark slots at different angles to cut laminate, trim, etc.

The application of the slots will affect the accuracy of the work performed in the future. Therefore, this process must be approached with special care. It is advisable to make cuts using the same hacksaw that will be used to perform the work.

Step 4: preparing the material to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

It is necessary to secure the finished corner template on the desktop using a clamp. Next, markings for the future cut should be applied to the workpiece. Next, you need to align the workpiece with the 45-degree slot inside the miter box and press firmly.

The hacksaw must be inserted into the corresponding grooves of the corner template and cut the workpiece. The grooves will limit the movements of the saw and the cut will be carried out in the desired direction.

Subtleties of working with a miter box and various materials

When sawing elements such as baseboards, it is not always necessary to make a 90-degree cut. After all, the walls in the room may be uneven. Before sawing the baseboard, it is necessary to adjust the angle of the cut.

Thus, the article described and characterized the process of sawing wooden materials using a miter box.

• with a 90 degree cut.

In both cases, installing platbands requires time, attention and effort, as it is a complex procedure.

Installation method with 45 degree trim

As part of this installation method, the master will have to trim the places where the individual elements of the whole set are connected into a single structure, maintaining an angle of 45 degrees. This method is the most popular and is suitable for working with any platbands, regardless of their configuration. In terms of shape, profiles can vary, having:

• flat;

• arcuate;

• any other front part, including carved ones.

The difficulty of installing platbands yourself lies in the process of cutting the corners. If you have a miter saw, the procedure is simplified: the cut is smooth and neat. In other cases, you will have to try hard to get a decent result. Processing of colored laminated or veneered products is especially difficult. A regular jigsaw is not enough to achieve optimal evenness and precision of the cut without any chips on the face. You must use hand tools:

• Miter box. This is a primitive hand tool that does not guarantee accuracy. It is a kind of groove, a template with slots that determine the cutting angle. Very soon the miter box causes the cuts being made to break, completely eliminating accuracy. The miter box belongs to the category of disposable devices.

• Rotary hacksaw. Optimal and durable attachment for cleaner cutting. For processing, it is enough to turn the saw, observing the necessary angle parameters and, making manual movements, make a cut.

In addition, do-it-yourself installation provides another method of pruning. In this case, you need to mark the line yourself and, observing the angle, make the cut with a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw for metal processing.

Installation method with 90 degree trim

This installation technology involves connecting individual planks at an angle of ninety degrees, that is, perpendicular to each other. The side trims seem to hold the top one, inserted between them. Due to this, trimming and adjusting the area where the elements are connected is simplified.

The method under consideration also requires compliance with the accuracy and cleanliness of the cut without chipping. Ideal joining is only possible when working with smooth rectangular frames without roundings. So, the master will have to perform an extremely accurate calculation of the side and top elements.

If you have to work with platbands rounded at the corners, then a straight cut will not work. The roundings will reveal the end part of the top rail. To avoid this result, you will have to make an inclined cut. The direction of inclination is from the front to the back side of the platband. Otherwise, the joining is also carried out at an angle of ninety degrees.

It is important to remember that the installation of platbands with a completely rounded or carved structure does not involve the use of this method. Such trims need to be installed only at an angle of 45 degrees.

We carry out installation according to the rules

The installation procedure consists of several stages, namely:

• Take measurements from the existing door block. First of all, measure the height of the rack along the entire length, starting from the floor level, ending at the point of intersection of the upper beam. Record or remember your results.

• Mark the obtained indicators on a long bar, starting with the smoothest edge. If there are no straight edges, make a straight line and cut along it, as close to the edge as possible. Be sure to cut the cut and set aside the desired size. Please note that when installing at an angle of 45 degrees, add 3 millimeters to the figures, taking into account the door overhangs. When installing at an angle of 90 degrees, add 3 millimeters to the width of the trim.

• Trim the upper part of the casing according to the finished markings in accordance with the selected installation technology.

• Install the first plank. It is better to do this from the side where the canopies are located. To secure the strip, use small copper-plated nails that allow you to bite off the head. Since copper tends to darken over time, the attachment points will remain invisible.

• Prepare for installation in the same way and fix the second trim in the side. Be sure to ensure that its length matches the length of the first casing. In some cases, an uneven floor or a crooked door block may cause deviations. It is advisable to take measurements separately.

• Cut the top casing on both sides. Be sure to try it on after trimming one edge. If there are no deviations, measure and cut the second edge. Otherwise you will have to buy a new casing.

It is very difficult to calculate the dimensions the first time without having experience in installing platbands. Thus, based on the installation results, a novice master may find problems in the form of cracks at the junction of elements. No need to worry. There is a quick and inexpensive way to correct the situation without the need for re-installation and the associated expenses for new platbands.

To mask gaps after installation, seal them with furniture wax in the color you want. The result will be quite neat and attractive. You can buy wax-based paste at any hardware store or market. As for the remaining points, even a beginner should not have problems here. The only requirement is that you take accurate measurements and be careful when fixing. Detailed instructions will help you avoid potential difficulties and get quality work done.

The platband wears out faster than the door frame, so it is often replaced without replacing the door and without calling a technician. No one forbids calling a professional, but the visit will be expensive, and the work of the master will take half an hour. Hence the conclusion - if we have direct hands, we do the work ourselves.

Preparation for pruning

To properly cut the platband you will need a carpenter's miter box or a protractor from school, a pencil and a hacksaw. Difficulty No. 1 is cutting at 45 degrees; even a housewife can cut the door trim at a right angle. Difficulty No. 2 is the laminated film or veneer on the front side, since there is no need to damage it.

To begin with, we advise you to make sure that the box is level; if there is no exact vertical line, then difficulties arise. Check the accuracy of the installation of the box with a home-grown plumb line - tie a nail to a thread and check the vertical. Let's assume everything is OK.

Instructions

Now we cut the side trims to length. To do this, remove the old planks and cut new ones along them. The method is not original, but practical. We don't touch the top bar yet. For pruning, remember these rules:

1. Cutting is done on the front side,
2. Use a grinder or hacksaw
3. When working, place the slats on two stools - it’s more convenient.

Why do we cut on the front side? Because otherwise you will damage the outer decorative layer. Why can't you use a hacksaw on wood? Because today you are not a lumberjack or a carpenter, but a cabinetmaker and you do delicate work.

The planks have been cut to length, now we make the first two angles at 45 degrees. Do not confuse the cutting sides - one strip is cut on the right, the other on the left. If you have a miter box in your arsenal, then the work is simplified; if not, then you will have to use a protractor. Take a corner from the outside of the casing and cut the strips for the door from different sides. When working, hold the hacksaw as horizontally as possible - this way there is less chance of damaging the lamination.

Upper casing

Cut off? Attach the strips to the door frame from the bottom and in the center, the top is not yet secured. Now we take a centimeter in our hands and measure the distance between the uppermost points of the casing. This distance is the required length of the top bar. We cut it to length at a right angle and slip it under the side trims on top of the box.

Next, use a pencil to draw a line along the cut corners of the side planks and cut the platband at the desired angle. Why not immediately cut the top bar at 45 degrees? If the box and side slats are level, then immediately cut the desired angle. If there is a slight distortion, then we insure ourselves using the method above.

Is everything cut off? Then we complete the replacement of the platband by inserting the top strip into its rightful place and securing it with furniture nails. The side trim is attached in 4-5 places, the top strip is fixed in two.

If gaps remain at the joint, use wax to eliminate furniture defects. Choose a wax color and fill the gaps with it.