We make a faucet with our own hands. Homemade mini crane for home How to make a crane with your own hands drawings

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams to the second floor, lift bags of cement or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, during the construction of private houses, cranes and various lifts are often used. This way construction goes faster, which means the “box” is cheaper, because It is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization tools than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house “with one helmet.” Therefore, the urgent question is how not to physically overstrain yourself when laying a wall from aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting option for an unusual homemade “helper” user FORUMHOUSE with nickname Cross. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

Cross

I am building a house myself and in order to be able to put aerated concrete blocks, built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

width – 2200 mm;
height – 4200 mm;
boom radius – 4200 mm;
load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure rises, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

swivel wheels;
profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
powerful gate hinges;
The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

Cross

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I’m thinking about making wireless control, replacing the gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of “joints” in the boom at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags of sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance: so that the lift can move around the construction site or, for example, along concrete slab second floor ceilings need to be supported workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

Konstantin Y. Member of FORUMHOUSE

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than standard ones. The length and height are 2-3 times greater than a regular GB. The crane has enough lifting capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to Cross, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of the 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, and for the sake of a small volume (to a regular private house) will not do this.

Vegaroma FORUMHOUSE Member

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

Cross

There is no need to install scaffolding when laying GB walls. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured the concrete lintels over the windows the old fashioned way, from buckets, because... The volume is small, and it’s easier to do it with one assistant.

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another version of a lifting mechanism made of metal “lying under your feet” was made by a portal participant with the nickname Peter_1.

According to Peter_1, The reason for building a crane is that the house is getting higher and higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, having reviewed the “unnecessary things”, the user made a complete collapsible crane with a load capacity of 200 kg.

Peter_1

I think my crane can lift more, but I didn’t overload it. The crane can be disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and can be easily transported in a trailer passenger car. I carry an arrow on the trunk. Statically tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift up to 150 kg. This is quite enough for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

outriggers and base - rectangular pipe with a cross section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. Cost of construction, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for welding inverter and paints - 4 thousand rubles.

Peter_1

The crane, + time for turning work, + selection of components and fitting of units, I did it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that a real crane is not always needed when building a private house. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on an electrically driven hoist.

Gexx FORUMHOUSE Member

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets with building blocks, a 6-meter beam for the mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

These are topics that describe in detail how to make a lift for aerated concrete, and provide dozens of options for mini-cranes, from simple to the most complex designs.

Also useful articles: homemade mini-crane “Pioneer”, features of manual arc welding and the choice of a welding inverter, as well as a homemade hydraulically driven mini-tractor.

The video shows how to build a house from aerated concrete without hired workers.

The design of a homemade crane will help those who themselves build a residential building, a summer house or a garden house.

A homemade crane will make it easier to install foundations, walls, ceilings and other structural elements.
Using such a jib crane, you can carry a load over a distance of up to 3 m, lift it to a height of up to 2 m and lower it to a depth of 2.5 m. The mechanism should be designed to install structures weighing up to 300 kg.

Rice. 1. Diagram of a crane that you can make yourself:

1 - block, 2 - crane boom, 3 - crane trolley, 4 - telescopic stand, 5 - paired angles, 6 - boom base blocks, 7- I-beam, 8 - struts, 9 - winch for moving the crane trolley, 10 - load frame, 11 - hoisting mechanism winch, 12 - electric winch drive, 13 - stand corner, 14,15 - M 16 bolts, 16 - lifting hook assembled with a block .

The crane consists of a horizontal boom beam (the crane trolley moves along it) and vertical support posts made of steel pipes, to which horizontal beams are attached. The crane is collapsible, which allows you to move it from place to place.
Construction of crane stands.
They are made of pipes with a diameter of 140 mm. Their height can be increased up to 3 m using telescopic incoming pipes. To prevent the posts from sinking into the ground, corners are welded to the base. A horizontal beam is welded to the top of the supports - two corners x 65 x 10 mm connected together. A horizontal guide is attached to it from below with four bolts - an I-beam No. 20, having dimensions of 200 x 100 x 5.2 mm, 3000 mm long, along which the crane trolley moves.

The second pair of guide supports consists of two vertical pipes connected at the top and bottom. For greater stability, two inclined supports are welded to them, which in turn connect the racks with a rectangular frame. The latter prevents the crane from tipping over, as it serves as a base for laying sandbags or concrete blocks.

An important feature of a jib crane is its control. Those who will build and operate it need to know: the crane has a lifting and moving device. If necessary, any part can be lowered below the zero mark (into a pit or trench). The entire system of cables and pulleys of the lifting device is driven by an electric motor. The trolley is moved by a hand winch using a cable. One end of it is fixed to the trolley, then the cable goes through the block to the drum, makes five turns and, again passed through the blocks at the base and at the end of the boom, is fixed to the crane trolley.

The hook is lifted by a cable, fixed at one end to the winch and passing successively through the blocks of the base, boom and crane trolley; then the cable goes down, forms a loop on which a block with a hook is suspended, and is secured to the end of the boom through the block of the crane trolley.

Rice. 2. Diagram of the mechanism for lifting and moving the load:

1 - boom end block, 2 - cable fastening pin on the crane trolley, 3 - boom base blocks of the crane trolley moving mechanism, 4 - cable moving the crane trolley, 5 - drum, 6 - hoisting mechanism winch, 7 - hoisting mechanism boom base block , 8 - blocks of the maroon trolley, 9 - block of the hook, 10 - assembly for securing the lifting cable.

The lifting device can also be driven by a conventional manual winch, which will provide the crane with complete autonomy.

Before starting work, you should carefully check the strength of the components and supports. Standing under the boom is not allowed - this is the basic safety rule at any construction site.

We hope that there will be farmers and gardeners who will build a crane to make their work easier. Maybe not like that. But similar. The main thing is that he helps in the work.

The Pioneer crane is an indispensable machine during loading and unloading, installation, construction and repair work. Depending on the size and volume of loading materials, it can be used and installed on the roofs of houses, in pits, as well as on the floors of buildings that are under construction.

This “miracle machine” consists of: a control panel (the control system is automated), a boom, an electric winch and two frames - a support and a rotary one. The Pioneer crane is a machine that is quite simple to operate and does not require any special physical effort. Even a person who is not experienced in construction can quite cope with operating the crane.

Design diagram

There is no need to register the Pioneer crane with the regulatory authorities. If there is a need to transport the crane to another place, there will be no problems with this either, since this machine is very convenient to transport.

terms of Use

The Pioneer crane does not require strict rules of use. It can work equally well on a hot summer day (air temperature +40 degrees Celsius) and in freezing cold (up to -40 degrees Celsius).

However, it is worth paying attention to the slope of the site where the crane will be located in the future. It should not exceed 3 degrees.

It’s quite calm, this machine can operate at a wind speed of 14 m/s. BUT: you should stop operating the crane if the wind speed is over 33 m/s.

My own master

Many owners of dachas or private houses make their own cranes. This is very convenient, since each mechanism (be it a simple motor or a full-fledged hydraulic drive) will be configured and adjusted to the person who made it. In addition, such a mechanism helps not only to carry heavy monolithic blocks, but also to deliver light loads, such as, to the top of the building.

Alas, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to apply hydraulics to your creation. But it will be possible to replace it with an equally worthy homemade lifting machine that is not too difficult to use.

Many people will probably have a completely adequate question: “Where can I get the parts?” The answer will be very short and unequivocal - at a landfill. If you push your innate disgust into the background and take a walk through many interesting landfills native land, then you can find a lot of useful things at a construction site.

So, in order to create a Pioneer faucet with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is find an I-beam and a rectangular pipe. Immediately, the condition is stipulated that the I-beam must fit freely into the pipe. It is placed on sliding guides, and thus a telescopic unit is obtained.

During use, in order to reduce friction, the sliding guides must be lubricated!

In order for the crane to finally be able to function, it must be equipped with certain cables of the smallest diameter. You will have to spend money on them in the profile hardware store(though you might also have luck finding them in a landfill). You can use a channel as a material for welding the support and rotary frames. It is the channel that allows for good fixation of the crane on the surface. Usually, the roof of the object that is being built is this surface.

In order for work with the machine to proceed without incident, and also to protect yourself, it is necessary to weld a rectangular-shaped ballast pad.

One will be enough foundation block, to lift a load weighing half a ton. To start the lifting process, you can purchase an electric motor in a special store, and then connect it to a winch from a UAZ.

Connecting electrical mechanisms

To lifting mechanism To start electrically, you will have to use the services of an electrician. The connection procedure itself is not too complicated, but still, for your own safety, you should trust a person who has experience working with electricity.

After this, the DIY Pioneer crane is ready for use.

Specifications

To better understand what the above-mentioned representative of lifting machines is capable of, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with his more detailed description– Pioneer crane technical characteristics.

So, the first point in general characteristics crane is, of course, its lifting capacity. It can fluctuate in the range of 0.5 tons - 1 ton. The advantage of the Pioneer crane is that it is able to lift a load that is several times heavier than itself. The height of the crane is consistently 4 meters. The angle that the platform can cover when turning is 360 degrees.

The reference contour (connecting the contour of the vertical axes of the lifting machine, formed by horizontal projections of straight lines) is 2x2 meters. The speed of lifting the load is a floating value, depending on the mass of the load (0.5 tons - from 0.2 to 50 m/s; 1 ton - 0.74 m/s). The diameter of the rope also depends on the size of the load: 6.9 mm - 0.5 tons, 12 mm - 1 ton. The weight of the Pioneer crane, depending on the model, can be 1 – 1.5 tons.

Users of the portal share their experience in building homemade lifts from simple to complex structures.

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams onto the second floor, lift bags of cement, or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

An interesting option is the unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Krestik. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

I am building a house myself and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, I built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

width – 2200 mm;
height – 4200 mm;
boom radius – 4200 mm;
load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure is raised, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

swivel wheels;
profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
powerful gate hinges;
The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

Important nuance: in order for the lift to move around the construction site or, for example, over the concrete slab of the second floor, it is necessary to keep the workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

Konstantin Y. Member of FORUMHOUSE

According to Krestik, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, but for the sake of a small volume (for an ordinary private house) they will not do this.

Vegaroma FORUMHOUSE Member

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another version of a lifting mechanism made of metal “lying underfoot” was made by a portal participant with the nickname Petr_1.

According to Peter_1, the reason for the construction of the crane is that the house is getting higher and higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, after revising the “unnecessary things”, the user manufactured a completely dismountable crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

I think my crane can lift more, but I didn’t overload it. The crane can be disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and can be easily transported in a car trailer. I carry an arrow on the trunk. Statically tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift up to 150 kg. This is quite enough for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. The cost of the structure, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for a welding inverter and paint, is 4 thousand rubles.

The crane, + time for turning work, + selection of components and fitting of units, I did it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Gexx FORUMHOUSE Member

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

All rust was cleaned off with a grinder, and the pipes were sprayed and then painted with paint with a rust reducer.

In order to be able to assemble the lift on the ceiling of the second floor, all components (where welding is not needed) are made collapsible - with bolted connections.

A hoist is installed on the stand using clamps.

On the control panel, in case of rain, put on plastic bottle with the bottom cut off.

The telpher covers a canopy made of used roofing iron.

When lifting a pallet, two boards are placed under it, and the pallet is lowered onto them.

The entire structure is fixed to the floor with clamps.

Drawing with dimensions of the lift.

As a result, the user has a universal, accessible self-made and a budget “helper” that greatly simplifies the work of building a house.

These are topics that describe in detail how to make a lift for aerated concrete, and provide dozens of options for mini-cranes, from simple to the most complex designs.

A do-it-yourself crane will always come in handy on the farm for anyone who has a summer house or those who live in a private house. It will be especially needed by those owners who are not afraid of various independent construction and renovation work. Renting such equipment, let alone purchasing it, will cost a considerable amount. And making a crane with your own hands is actually quite simple - you will learn about this in this article. Try to understand the proposed instructions step by step, performing all the work, and you will get an excellent tool for household use.

Manufacturing

For further work you will need the following materials:

Worm gearbox (electric drive must be 600 W).
Construction supports.
Secondary materials and tools for construction and repair.

Work progress

Most of the necessary and useful tools It is quite possible to make it yourself, thereby saving the family budget. In general, such a structure is assembled very simply and as quickly as possible. The algorithm described below will help even an inexperienced master. The main thing is to select all the necessary parts and working tools for the future structure.

Important! Ultimately, the resulting structure will weigh approximately 250-300 kg. At the same time, it will be quite compact. A self-built crane will not have a very high lifting capacity (approximately 200 kg), however, it will be more than enough for most home construction or renovation work.

Let's move on to the algorithm for making a mini-faucet with your own hands:

Our mechanism will have 2 bearings. There will be a support bearing in the upper part between the housing and the base. Below is a simple radial bearing. The inner diameter of the housing is calculated for the lower bearing, as well as O.D. grounds.

Important! Both parts must fit tightly into the bearing. Thus, both parts are connected.

In order to more reliably fix the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below, the thickness of the threaded and supporting parts of which must be at least 3 mm.
Next, this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt, which will attract the base to the platform. So you will get the following design: the platform with the base will be stationary, and the body with the nut will rotate.

Important! To tighten the bolt that will be attached to the base of the platform, it will be necessary spanner wrench with an extension cord, as well as two washers - a Grover and a flat one.

It's time to move on to making a mini-crane stand with your own hands. Its height should be up to your waist. In order to make it, you need a piece of pipe and 4 pieces of channel. You can trim the end of the pipe evenly by using a car clamp and tightening it on it, then cut an even circle with a grinder.
Next, a platform is welded to the cut end rotary mechanism, which must be ordered based on the dimensions of the pipe you have chosen.
Next we move on to making the legs. They are welded in such a way that the stand itself does not collapse.
Now you can move on to hanging the pipe with the already welded platform. The rope is passed through the hole in the center of the rotating mechanism platform, and the legs are placed diagonally towards the pipe. Thus, the pipe should hang evenly, and the legs should rest on it on all four sides.
After finding the balance of the crane with your own hands, the corners of the channels abutting the pipe are outlined by eye and trimmed with a grinder.
Next, they move on to making a support cross and attaching it to the legs using nuts. It is usually made from various rigid profiles.
After this, they move to the crane platform, where there will be a counterweight, as well as a boom and a winch. The platform is attached to the rotating mechanism body using four bolts.

Important! As a platform, you can use a 1.5-meter I-beam, the width of which will be approximately 18 cm.

Let's move on to the block of counterweights - it is usually made from pieces of channel material, but other options are also acceptable. Ultimately, the most important thing is the quality of the resulting cargo container.
The winch is usually installed with a capacity of 0.5 tons, with a brake.
All that remains is to make a boom for the crane with your own hands. It is always made of timber, a mount with a shaft and a tip with a pulley.
The mounting body is made from a piece of channel material, and for the shaft, for example, a piece of the rotor shaft from some old engine is suitable. After this, it is bent in a vice, and two brackets are attached around it, after which it is fixed to the fastening body, which will later be inserted into the prepared beam.
Purchase ordinary bearings that will fit tightly onto the shaft. A seat is cut out in the mounting body.
The bearings are secured in the housing.
The timber is attached to the channel with ties made from a metal strip, the thickness of which is approximately 3 millimeters.
A pulley for the cable is attached to the end of the boom.
Next, the arrow is assembled, having previously strengthened it.
After this, they proceed to assembling the entire crane platform with their own hands. A winch is installed on it, a block of counterweights is installed under the winch, and on the other side there is a boom lift housing with a boom.

Important! The entire assembly must be carried out in a lying position, and when completed the structure must be raised so that it is in an upright position on some support.

The rotating mechanism is attached to the rack, after which a platform is installed on it so that the boom and counterweight are in balance.
The assembled crane platform is suspended and raised so that it is possible to place a stand under it.
Raise the platform using a winch. To do this, its cable is passed through a block and hooked to the boom lifting body located at the other end of the platform.
The platform is raised using a winch.
Having hung it in this way and placed a stand under it, they find a position where the counterweight balances the arrow.
In this position, four through holes are drilled and the platform is bolted to the rack.