Modern life is hard to imagine without electricity. And this applies not only to lighting, but also to connecting various household appliances and appliances, charging devices and much more. An auxiliary device for this is the well-known socket. They are distinguished by purpose (electrical, telephone, computer and even water sockets), by the degree of security, by the specifics of installation (external and internal), and by design. But they all perform the same function - quick disconnect connection of devices and devices.

Connecting an outlet

Having decided on the choice of outlet and in the presence of a laid cable, you can proceed with the installation. First of all, you should turn off the power supply to the conductor. This is done in the apartment panel, by turning off the machine.

Required tools:

• pliers;
• Screwdriwer set.

Before connecting and installing, use a screwdriver to unscrew the bolt and remove the front part of the socket. On the basis, we find conductive elements and loosen the bolts on the terminals.

Before starting work, use an indicator screwdriver or other measuring device to check that the power cable is de-energized.

Using a knife or pliers, we clean the ends of the wire from insulation by about 8 - 10 mm. L - phase (black or white), N - zero (blue) and PE - ground (yellow-green). We insert the wires into the terminals, phase and zero - side with sockets, earth - the central contact. We align the base of the socket horizontally and fix it to the socket with fixing bolts. Installing the front.

How to connect multiple sockets in a row

Connecting several outlets to one cable is called - connection "loop". This connection involves connecting several elements of the same group (in our case, sockets) into one block. It should be borne in mind that the connection of sockets with a "loop" is suitable for powering electrical appliances and equipment of low power. This type of connection allows you to connect two or more outlets.

List of tools for installation and connection:

• screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• Perforator;
• Level.

According to the location of the supply cable, we drill niches for socket boxes in the wall, first align them in level. After installing the socket boxes, we prepare the connecting jumpers (use a cable of the same section as the power cable). We connect the phase and neutral wires to the terminals of the first outlet, as well as similar wires of the "loop" going to the next outlet.

How many sockets can be connected to one wire? Reliability directly depends on the number of elements. The smaller they are, the more reliable the design.

And only now, taking into account all the pros and cons, you can rationally approach this issue and understand whether this type of connection suits you.

Scheme of connecting the block socket-switch single-gang

Before the advent of combined socket-switch blocks, the installation of each element was carried out separately, which complicated not only the connection scheme, but also the operating time. Of course, separate connection has its advantages. But thanks to its design, the combined unit helps to achieve high efficiency and ease of use.

It also simplifies the installation of the device (no need to lay extra wires and drill additional niches for socket boxes). The disadvantage of such blocks is the impossibility of replacing an individual element (if the socket or switch fails, the entire device will have to be replaced).

Connection tools:

• pliers;
• Mounting or clerical knife;
• Screwdrivers.

To connect the block with grounding, you need a cable with four cores. First, we mount the cable and the socket in the wall. We put the wire into the socket and junction box and clean the ends. Now the phase (black or white) wire and zero (usually blue) must be connected to the side terminals of the socket with sockets, and the ground (yellow - green) to the central terminal. The remaining wire is connected to the switch terminal.

Be sure to make sure that all wires in the unit and junction box are connected correctly. It is not allowed to connect two contacts with different polarity.

We connect the wires in the junction box. The phase wire going to the outlet is connected to the phase of the power cable. The zero wire from the outlet and the zero going to the lighting device (chandelier or lamp), we also connect the power cable to zero. We connect the phase wire from the switch to the phase going to the lighting fixture. We fasten the front part of the block.

If screw terminals are not used when connecting the wires in the junction box, securely insulate the exposed contacts with electrical tape.

Correct socket connection diagram (video)

Electrical work is always best left to the professionals. But there are situations when something needs to be done independently, without experience in this area. Use the tips of the wizards, study the connection diagrams, and you can easily cope with the task.

The situation when the number of electrical appliances working at the same time exceeds the number of sockets in the room is no longer a rarity today.

We have to resort to the help of tees and extension multipliers, which is not only not convenient, but also not aesthetically pleasing.

A more rational solution is to replace one or more sockets with double ones: there will be more sockets, while there is no need to ditch the walls to lay new wires. How to choose and how to connect a double socket - read about this below.

Double sockets are available in a variety of designs. Here's what they are:

1. With grounding and without grounding. In the first case, in addition to the main ones (phase and zero), the socket has contacts for connecting the ground wire (inside) and the ground contact on the device plug (outside). If a two-wire wire is connected to the electrical outlet or there is no grounding contact on the plug of the device, then it makes no sense to purchase a double socket with grounding.
2. Open and closed. The latter are equipped with shutters that cover the holes in the outlet when no device is turned on. A child will not be able to insert a nail or pin into a closed outlet and receive an electric shock. The curtains move back only if there is a simultaneous impact on each of them, that is, when the plug of the electrical appliance is plugged into the socket.
3. Conventional and in moisture-dustproof design. The level of moisture and dust protection is indicated by an index consisting of the letters "IP" and two numbers. For installation in rooms with high humidity, IP44 class sockets (equipped with a cover) should be purchased, but if the electrical outlet is located on the street - IP55.
4. Programmable. This outlet has a timer with which you can set the time to turn off or turn on.
5. Spring loaded. Inside such an outlet there are springs, and on the body there is a button. When the button is pressed, the latch holding the fork is released, and it is pushed out by the springs.
6. Embedded and overhead. In the first case, the front surface of the outlet after installation will be flush with the wall, in the second - somewhat protruding.

Double ground socket

Sockets can have a different shape of holes - depending on what type of plug the product is intended for.

Installation Tools

To quickly and efficiently install the outlet, you will have to arm yourself with something.

We will need:

• phase indicator (looks like a screwdriver with a light bulb at the end);
• crosshead screwdriver;
• wire cutters (can be replaced with pliers);
• well-sharpened knife.

If the outlet is installed in a new place, you will have to get a puncher.

Preparatory work

The amount of preparatory work will depend on whether the outlet is placed in a new place, or they simply want to replace the old ordinary outlet with it. Let's consider both options.

Preparation before replacing the outlet

If there is already a socket at the installation site, it must be dismantled. This can be done only after disconnecting the outlet from the power supply. Turning off the machine, you need to use the phase indicator to check whether the electric point is really turned off.

Dismantling the outlet

Dismantling the socket is performed in the following sequence:

1. First, remove the front panel by unscrewing the screw holding it. Sometimes, to access the fasteners, you need to pry off a plastic decorative panel that is held on by a latch with a flat screwdriver or a knife.
2. Having gained access to the inside, unscrew the screws holding the wire strands in the terminals.

Preparation before installing a new outlet

As part of the preparatory work, a wire must be laid from the junction box to the installation site of the new electrical point. To do this, a channel is punched through the wall with a perforator - a strobe.

When the strobe is ready, a wire is laid in it. It is best to place it in a corrugated tube. In this case, the wire, if it burns out, can be easily removed and replaced with a new one without breaking the plaster.

Gate socket

After laying the corrugated tube with the wire, the strobe must be covered with a cement-sand mortar.

Connecting the wire to the terminals of the junction box is performed after installing the outlet.

Now you need to make a recess in the wall in which the new double socket will fit.

Marking on the wall

In that place on the wall, you need to make a mark with a pencil. To install a double socket, in the design of which there are two glasses, it is required to measure the distance between the drilled holes. For this purpose, the location of the central point of one of the sockets, which is located at the intersection of the diagonals, is determined. In a similar way, the central point of the installation box No. 2 is revealed.

Layout of outlets in the kitchen

In order for the notch to have the correct round shape, you can first make an annular cutout using a crown mounted on a drill, after which the material inside the cutout is knocked out with a chisel. The diameter of the crown should be 2 - 3 mm larger than the diameter of the socket. In the absence of a crown, a recess is formed with a drill, drilling several holes and then selecting the remaining material with a chisel.

You need to go deep enough so that the mounting box fits completely in the recess without protruding from it.

Mounting socket boxes

Before attaching the mounting box, you need to lead the wire into it. Next, the part is placed in the recess and fixed. Most models have holders (legs), which, when the corresponding screws are tightened, diverge to the sides, resting against the walls of the niche.

As practice has shown, such latches do not provide sufficient strength: the force acting on the socket when the plug is pulled out increases due to the lever and over time loosens the mount.

Installation of socket boxes in a concrete / brick / aerated concrete wall

For greater reliability, you have to put the installation box on the solution. Any one will do - cement-sand, alabaster or gypsum. In order for the adhesion force between the solution and the niche to be maximum, the walls of the latter must first be moistened with water. The socket box is not installed immediately after laying the solution, but after 20 - 30 minutes, when it grabs a little.

Having filled the gaps remaining between the box and the wall with a solution, they remove its excess and this completes the installation of this part of the outlet.

Holders are not always included. When buying, you need to immediately check whether the socket is equipped with them, and if they are not found, these parts should be purchased separately.

Mounting boxes of inexpensive sockets are often fastened with dowels. In this case, additional fastening with a solution is not required.

Socket wiring and wiring

At this stage, it is necessary to connect the wire strands to the contacts on the inside of the outlet. You need to act in the following sequence:

1. The end of the wire is released for a length of about 10 cm from the outer insulation, after which the cores will be separated. With such a length, it will be convenient to work, and the wire will easily fit into the box.
2. It happens that the end of the wire protruding from the wall is too short and has to be increased. In this case, it is desirable to connect the cores by soldering or using special connecting terminals. The twist can have a lot of resistance and get warm because of this. If, nevertheless, the wires have to be connected in this way, then they need to be twisted as tight as possible, using pliers for this.
3. The ends of the cores are cleaned to a length of 1 - 1.5 cm from the insulation. Stripping can be done with a knife, but this must be done carefully so as not to damage the conductor itself. You can also use one of the special tools - a stripper or a puller.
4. Now you need to determine which of the cores is the phase, which is the neutral, and which is the ground. If you did not install the wiring, you cannot rely on color coding - it could be confused. The phase is easy to determine: you need to turn on the machine, supplying power to the electrical outlet, and touch the wires in turn with the phase indicator.

Wiring in a one-room apartment

Before applying power, make sure that the bare ends of the wires do not come into contact with each other. Contact will cause a short circuit.

There are two ways to distinguish a ground wire from a neutral wire:

1. Measure the voltage between the phase and each of the other two conductors with a voltmeter. When the second probe comes into contact with the ground conductor, the readings on the device will be slightly higher than when in contact with the neutral.
2. Measure between each of the tested conductors (that is, not phase) and some grounded metal object, for example, a heating pipe. Upon contact with the "ground", the device will show "zero", upon contact with the neutral - some meager value.

It is customary to connect the neutral with blue insulation, and the ground with yellow-green insulation. The phase is usually connected to a residential one with brown insulation.

In conclusion, it remains to clamp the ends of the wires in the screw clamps of the inside of the socket, install it in the socket and screw the front panel.

Connecting a double socket

A double socket should not be confused with two separate ones. It is connected by one wire, so the total power of the included devices should not exceed the power for which this wire is designed.

In addition, the outlet itself has a limited bandwidth: the current flowing through it should not exceed 16 A, that is, devices with a total power of up to 220x16 = 3.52 kW can be connected to such an outlet.

Before you start repairing an electrical appliance, you should remember some simple safety rules.

First you need to find out what is the reason for the replacement. If the device simply does not hold well in the wall, then it is enough to tighten the screws. A pungent smell, smoke, or electric shock indicate that a new outlet is a must.

Rules that allow you to avoid injury when changing the outlet:

1. Turn off the power supply in the entire apartment. To do this is quite simple. The shield is usually located in the corridor or entrance. If the meter is old-style and has plugs, then pressing them will de-energize the entire apartment. Many houses now have electrical panels in the form of boxes. In this case, you need to find the levers on it and move them to the off position. Some craftsmen believe that they know all the wiring well and neglect this simple rule. Often the consequences in such cases are deplorable.
2. Do all day work. The only exception is the case when repairs are needed at a given time, and the normal life of the family depends on it. You can use a flashlight and rubber gloves. In other cases, it is better to postpone the dismantling for a bright period of the day.
3. Both the installation tools and the socket itself must be of excellent quality.
4. If the installation of electrical equipment is carried out for the first time, then you definitely need to study the step-by-step instructions for replacing and installing. A detailed guide is described in this article.

Instructions for dismantling the socket

1. Removing the protective cover of electrical equipment. To do this, take a crosshead or flat screwdriver. The screw, as a rule, is always one and it is located between two holes for supplying electricity. If the socket is double, then there are two screws, unscrew both. Carefully remove the panel.
2. The next step is to check for voltage. There are 2 types of wire: contact and zero. We alternately connect the phase to each of them. After full confidence in the absence of voltage, you can continue to work.
3. Dismantling the mechanism. No matter which socket is outside, there are 2 screws on the inside equipment on 2 sides. They hold paws that connect two components. Above and below there are a couple more bolts, they fix 2 wires. Loosen all 4 screws one by one. They can be thrown away, because. most likely they are already badly scrolled. For a new installation, it is better to buy new screws.
4. There should be 2 cables left in the hole in the wall. If they are bare, then it is necessary to wrap them with electrical tape.
5. The last dismantling step is to check the size of the new socket. If it does not fully enter the wall in depth, then you can cut it. This option is suitable for plastic specimens. If the equipment is made of metal, then you will have to deepen the hole in the wall.

It should be noted that during dismantling, you can find what is missing. Such sockets were often installed in old houses, in order to save money.

Of course, this is wrong and you should not repeat the mistakes of others. In this case, do not get lost, you just need to carefully detach the outer part.

Preparing a new outlet

A socket box is not always required during installation. It depends on the design of the new electrical equipment. In some modern designs, the central part itself is used as protection.

Let's consider this option in more detail.

The appearance of this option is different in that there is a special metal frame around it, and the mechanism is initially attached to the rim itself.

Such equipment is sold in one piece, i.e. outer panel, frame and mechanism are interconnected. To start installation, you need to detach the outer part from the protective frame. Fastening is carried out using bolts, so they just need to be unscrewed.

Only the bezel and mechanism remain.

Upon closer examination of the mechanism, you can see that there are no longer 4, but 5 screws on it. The latter is located at the top between the two contact. This bolt holds the special plate.

It presses the contact wires more tightly, which allows you to install the plug firmly. It also serves as additional protection against electric shock.

Installation instructions

device

Euro socket installation:

1. We remove the insulation. We measure the depth of the hole intended for the cable. If the size does not match, you need to clean the protective layer of rubber. The bare cable should protrude quite a bit from the hole;
2. Using the clamping screw, insert the first wire. The fixation must be very secure. If this is not the case, the outlet will stop working pretty quickly. To do this, the cable must be gently pulled, it should not move from side to side;
3. Repeat the same procedure with the second wire.. We must not forget about accuracy when exposing wires.
4. In case equipment with grounding was purchased, a special cable is required. It is not available in all homes. In new houses or apartments after repair, such a cable is usually present. The cable is inserted into the upper opening of the mechanism. If the house is old and there is no ground wire, then this step is not required. It should be noted that equipment without a ground wire will not be able to supply electricity to all types of plugs. Therefore, it is worth thinking about its implementation;
5. The main network connection is completed. Next, you should install the mechanism in the hole in the wall and fix it with the help of quick paws. A protective plastic panel is installed outside.

Installation requiring a new socket box:

1. A new box is required when it is not possible to fix the paws on the old socket. It was mentioned above that during dismantling, it is checked whether the new box fits into the old recess. Therefore, during the installation phase, the new structure must ideally fit into the wall. To hold the socket firmly, you need to fill it with a special solution, such as glue.
2. The fixation of the new mechanism depends on the design. These will be quick paws or screws that are screwed to the box itself.
3. We expose the wires. This is done as in the first option.
4. We connect the cables to the common mechanism. The protective frame is not removed, but also remains attached to the equipment.
5. We fasten the screws on the top and sides. We install the outer plastic panel and frame. Installation completed.

Features of installing a double socket

There are 2 mechanisms for connecting such equipment. The first implies 2 power outlets from one point. This is an extremely unsafe option.

This is due to the fact that the current strength remains unchanged, and the voltage and load increase. It follows from this that such an option is short-lived. In addition, the mechanism has significantly fewer fasteners than the single version, so contact with the plug will be weaker.

Double holes are best taken from different points. This means that the outer panel will be doubled and connected together, while the power sources inside will be different.

In this case, the risk of voltage surge and electric shock is the same as in single sockets, i.e. almost zero.

It should also be taken into account where exactly such a mechanism will be installed.

So, for example, when installing in a concrete wall, a small number of holes for fastening does not matter, because. the base is very strong.

Walls made of chipboard, OSB or fiberboard will not be able to hold such equipment in themselves for a long time, over time the mechanism will begin to fall out.

Necessary equipment

Power socket

It is best to choose new samples. Namely European production. In them, the forks are held more firmly, and the design itself is very stable. Devices made in Russia are also of good quality.

It should be noted that if old Soviet-style sockets are installed in the apartment, then replacement must be carried out. Such equipment can fail at any time.

socket box

As a rule, they have a standard diameter of 7 cm. There are also larger options, but they are required for old-style sockets. Therefore, if drilling the wall is not included in the plans for repairing the outlet, it is necessary to measure the hole before buying the socket.

The material for using this electrical equipment varies. Is it plastic or metal. If the wall is concrete, brick or any other non-combustible material, then you can safely install metal sockets. Wood, plywood or drywall are very fragile. Therefore, to install an outlet in such rooms, you need to use a plastic base.

Screwdriver

Basic equipment for mounting and dismantling. All sockets are attached to bolts and screws, which is why it is impossible to imagine such a repair without a screwdriver.

Insulating tape

Used as wire insulation to eliminate the risk of electric shock. Required to extend old wires.

Voltage indicator

It is necessary in order to check whether there is voltage left in the circuit. Both contacts need to be checked. If the indicator has not changed, then you can safely get to work.

Gloves

Both woven and rubber samples are used. In the case when there is absolutely no voltage, the first option can be used. Rubber gloves are used if there is no voltage indicator available, because. rubber practically does not conduct electricity. They are inconvenient to work with.

1. If there is no earth cable in the house, do not refuse to buy a mechanism with such a hole. They cost a little more. But at the same time, the structure is installed in the wall more firmly, which prolongs the service life. The contact with the fork is also much stronger;
2. Bare wire contact should be carefully measured. If it comes out of the hole too much or, conversely, is not visible at all, then the socket will last a short time. In the near future, you will have to repeat the procedure.
3. If it is possible not to install a double panel from one point, then it is better to put two single mechanisms with different connections;
4. When all the wiring in the house changes, you should change the height of the sockets. It should be about 20 cm from the floor.

The apartment usually has enough free sockets, but it often turns out that at least two devices must be included in one of them. The solution to the problem is very simple, if you take care in advance how to connect a double outlet. This is one of the most reliable ways to solve the problem of drop-out tees once and for all, loosening the contacts of single sockets in parallel.

What are double or triple sockets

The usual socket represents the metal contacts fixed in the dielectric case. Wires are attached to each of them with a bolted connection. A double socket, installed in one socket, consists of the same contacts, only they are made along the edges of the plate and each of them has a bolt fastening for a phase or neutral wire. Since a copper or brass plate in any case has a greater bandwidth than a wire, it is he who is a potential “weak link”, therefore, when connecting a double socket, tightening the contacts must be taken with all due attention.

The circuit diagram for connecting a triple socket is no different from a double socket - the phase and zero are connected to the contacts that are on copper or brass plates. Between themselves, triple sockets structurally differ in triangular or tape. Their second variety is the same double, but with an additional socket for the third plug - all contacts are on solid plates. Triangular, in turn, have to be made from several pieces, connecting them together with rivets. Theoretically, this somewhat reduces the reliability of the contacts, but if you do not violate the operating rules, then the triangular triple socket, installed in one socket, has been working flawlessly for many years.

Why a double socket

The disadvantages of the solution to put a double outlet are very difficult to find. Almost the only argument that is cited against is most likely simply “out of harm” and says that connecting it to the network increases the risk of overload - except for families that have electricians, no one will even think about whether it will “pull” whether one point two powerful electrical appliances.

In practice, to connect such devices that stably consume high current, separate sockets are made, therefore, under normal conditions, several factors must converge for the occurrence of a long-term dangerous overload, the combination of which seems very, very unlikely.

What is the average outlet designed for?

The first point is the current strength that the socket can withstand - usually this parameter is indicated on its cover, less often on the inside. Old Soviet devices, which are now less and less common (they are being replaced almost primarily because of the need to connect modern Europlugs), for the most part, are designed for a current of 6 Amperes. Modern, even of mediocre quality, are already marked 10 (if it is without grounding) or 16 amperes.

What these numbers mean will help you find out the school formula for calculating the power of an electric current - even the humanities should figure it out. P (power) \u003d I (current) * U (voltage), and given that the voltage in the household network is always constant and equals 220 volts, it is quite simple to calculate what the current marking says.

• 220 Volts * 6 Amps = 1320 Watts = 1.3 kW
• 220 Volts * 10 Amps = 2200 Watts = 2.2 kW
• 220 Volts * 16 Amps = 3520 Watts = 3.5 kW

Power of household electrical appliances

You can visualize where you can safely connect a double outlet by comparing the most commonly used electrical appliances:

Considering the recommendations of the PUE: how to properly connect powerful kitchen appliances, boilers and air conditioners - a separate line is always connected to them, it is very difficult to imagine in what situation the installation of a double outlet will entail the simultaneous inclusion of two devices with a total power of more than 2.2 kW. Using an iron at the same time as a vacuum cleaner or a hairdryer is quite problematic - only a microwave oven with an electric kettle remains, but together they work for a maximum of 5-8 minutes, and the margin of safety in electrical engineering is not an empty phrase. Plus, for such electrical appliances, they usually put good 16 Amp sockets.

Installation of double and triple sockets

There is no difference between how to connect a triple socket, double or ordinary - all the steps are exactly the same. Of course, all work must be done with the electricity turned off:

• A hole is drilled in the wall where a socket box and a strobe will be installed, along which the wire will be fed (if installation is performed from scratch).
• A gypsum or cement mortar is being prepared - a little, so that it is enough to fix the socket box in the wall.
• A socket box is installed flush with the wall (the wires are brought inside it, and before that, their ends must be wrapped with electrical tape so that the gypsum mortar does not get on the cores). Then you need to wait the set time for the solution to completely harden - depending on the composition, this can take from 15 minutes to a day.
• Next, the electrical tape is removed from the ends of the wires, if necessary, the required amount of insulation, the cores are inserted into the contact mounts and tightened. Contrary to some opinions, there is no difference how to connect a triple socket (the same applies to double and single) - the phase wire can be clamped both on the right contact and on the left. The main thing is that there is good contact between the core and the terminal, to increase its area, the core can be slightly flattened with pliers.
• Then the inner part is installed in the socket - you don’t have to expose anything here, since it has a limiter with which it is pressed against the wall. When the socket is completely aligned, the spacer legs are tightened, and the limiter is screwed to the socket.
• The last step is to secure the cover - it is bolted to the inside.

At what step you need to turn on the electricity depends solely on the degree of curiosity - the connection is made correctly or not. You can check the voltage immediately after connecting the wires, after installing the inner part in the socket, or after the installation is completely completed.

The process of installing a double socket is shown in this video:

Double and triple sockets, recruited from ordinary

The meaning of such a connection is that the phase and neutral wires are suitable from the junction box to one of the sockets, and the third is connected from its terminals with the next wire, and so on. In fact, these are not double, but twin (triple) sockets that are connected to a separate unit, which is still powered from one wire.

A row of sockets connected in this way is easy to repair - if any part of it fails, then only the broken part will have to be changed.

The wire connecting the socket blocks is selected with the same section as the one that comes to the first of them. If there is no such thing, then without any problems you can take wires with a larger cross-section core, but in no case vice versa - with a load greater than gentle, the wire connected to such contacts will soon begin to heat up and oxidize. Socket blocks are generally installed in places where the use of a large number of powerful devices is not expected, although if the supply and connecting wires of sufficient cross section and the socket contacts are well clamped, then they will freely withstand the operation of the heater in tandem with several more devices.

There is one more nuance when installing socket boxes - they can be installed one at a time, or you can find a whole block that is immediately inserted into the holes drilled in the wall. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as with a conventional outlet.

A detailed story about connecting the socket block in this video:

What is better to choose

As a result, the use of double and triple sockets is an excellent alternative to the need to connect ordinary carriers, tees and other devices that allow several devices to work from one point at once.

The only rule that you need to remember, without bothering to calculate kilowatts, is not to include several powerful devices, such as heaters, in one outlet or their group. In domestic conditions, it is very difficult to imagine a situation when this may be needed, but if such a need arose, then it is better to choose sockets on different, and preferably opposite, walls.

Installing a double outlet is often chosen for financial reasons - it is much cheaper than buying several single ones.

Double sockets are more firmly installed in the wall and may look more aesthetically pleasing than single sockets mounted here and there.

Important! The use of double sockets is possible only if certain rules are observed: the total current, when connecting any devices, should not exceed 10 or 16 amperes.

Tools for installing a double socket

To install a double socket, you need the following set of tools:

Screwdriver corresponding to the screws that fasten the socket

Dielectric coated screwdriver

socket box

Cable (if the socket is to be installed, not replaced)

• self-tapping screws

• Multimeter

  Perforator (also - if you want to install an outlet in a new place)

Before you start connecting

Before installing a double socket, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:

Choose installation location

Lay cable

Install sockets

Choose the right sockets

Installation process

The first thing to do is to protect yourself by de-energizing the outlet.

But even turning off all the machines in the electrical panel, you need to make sure that there is no voltage in the outlet. You can use a multimeter for this.

Now you can start disassembling the socket. To do this, unscrew the fixing screws and remove the trim.

The socket mechanism will open, with which you have to work:

Now you need to use a knife to expose the wires in the socket by 10 mm.

Here they are before us:

Connecting a double socket

In this case, two sockets will be connected to one wiring line, so 6 wires will be needed for the first socket, and a loop of 3 main wires is laid for the second.

The connection goes like this:

That is, the first outlet will receive voltage and transmit it through the loop to the second, parallel outlet.

When connecting the wires, you need to focus on the color marking, usually the black wire is the phase, the blue wire is zero, and the yellow-green wire is ground. Phase and zero must be connected to the extreme terminals, and the ground to the central one.

You can determine the phase, zero and ground using the color marking adopted according to the standard:

You can also use an indicator screwdriver.

It is very important to connect the wires to the socket terminals correctly.

The figure shows that the supply wires must be connected to different terminals. Otherwise, a short circuit will occur and the wiring will burn.

It is also necessary that when connecting the second wire to the main terminal, the material of the connected wires is the same so that the process of metal oxidation does not start.

Important! Complete electrical safety is ensured if the ground wire is connected to the sockets using a branch wire, that is, it remains unbroken.

If everything is correct, then you can tighten the screws.

Now you can move on to fixing the outlet. It is necessary to align the mechanism and securely fix it in the "glass" using the fixing screws and tighten them tightly on the sides of the socket.

Advice! In order to align the outlet and correctly install the decorative overlay, you need to use the lesson, marker and pencil, drawing an even strip and line up with it when fixing the outlet.