The comfort of heating a room with the help has been recognized for a long time. There are several electrical varieties of built-in heating systems, of which only infrared (IR) film systems allow, if necessary, to completely get away from wet processes. Their installation is to a large extent similar to analogues made in the form or, but also has some important differences. Basically, because of them, self-installation of a film underfloor heating is sometimes carried out with serious errors. Violation of the selection rules, as well as the technology for assembling infrared systems, leads to a significant drop in efficiency, a reduction in their service life, and an increase in the risk of electrical injury. Therefore, so that the operation of the electric heating of the IR type does not cause unpleasant questions in the future, you should carefully understand the choice of its models, their installation and connection.

What kind of film will we choose?

A sufficient number of infrared films for installation in pirogues of floor coverings from various manufacturers are already presented on the domestic market. The most popular products, according to the rating of the best goods "Mark of Quality" are products from brands:

• Caleo;
• Hi heat;
• National Comfort;
• heat plus.

At the same time, comparing with other methods of arranging electrical transformer substations, it is possible to identify common strengths and weaknesses for all the products under consideration. Film underfloor heating has the following advantages:

• small thickness (depending on the model - 0.2-0.6 mm), which allows you to install it under almost any floor covering. The height of the room does not decrease, there is no need for thresholds;
• uniform heating of the entire surface of the floor, which has a positive effect on the integrity of the material of the base and cladding, since there is no temperature deformation between its boundary sections. This is especially important for piece flooring such as parquet;
• accelerated, but economical heating of the premises.

Infrared film for underfloor heating also has disadvantages, which include:

• its rather high cost in comparison with other systems of electrical transformer substations. To a greater extent, this applies to multilayer, shielded and other advanced models;
• the complexity of the installation process;
• the need to calculate the layout of thermoelements, taking into account the placement of furniture in the room. That is, in the future, it will be quite problematic to rearrange large pieces of furniture. This requirement applies to all common built-in electric heating systems, however, it is especially relevant for infrared ones.

Calculation of power and laying features for various types of coatings

It is necessary to draw a sketch plan of the room, with the designation of areas not occupied by furniture. On average, such free space remains from 60% to 80% of the total. For effective operation, infrared film underfloor heating must have a specific power: from 120-140 W / m 2 for auxiliary and 150-180 W / m 2 for main heating. At the same time, it is considered that the heat losses of the enclosing structures are minimized, and the layout of the thermoelements is carried out by 70% of the square of the room or more. The plan is also drawn up taking into account the fact that:

• the distance from the walls is taken at least 300 mm;
• sheets of a film heater are recommended to be oriented along the long wall of the room. Thus, the number of contact connections and wires is optimized;
• sheets should not overlap, it is recommended to leave an interval between adjacent elements of 50 mm.

Installation under laminate and parquet

A film for underfloor heating with laminate or parquet covering provides for the creation of a substrate with a perfectly flat surface. Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood 15-20 mm thick can be used as a subfloor if the supporting structure is a concrete slab or other monolithic material. If the flooring cake involves the use of logs, then for the subfloor it is recommended to use an edged board with a thickness of 20 mm to 30 mm (depending on the distance between the logs), OSB or thick plywood.

Installation of a film underfloor heating under a laminate (parquet, parquet board)

1. A thorough cleaning of solid particles of construction debris, dirt, as well as dedusting of the subfloor is carried out.
2. A special dense non-deformable substrate with a reflective layer is laid over the entire area of ​​the room. The reflective coating should be oriented upwards.
3. The strips of the substrate are arranged end-to-end and are fixed to the base with double-sided, and between themselves - with foil tape.

Important! The thickness of the lining layer must allow the arrangement of grooves for placing cables, terminal connections and a temperature sensor. All items listed must be at the general film level, including the contact insulation materials used.

Underfloor heating film laying

It is carried out in accordance with a pre-calculated scheme:

1. The heating sheets should be placed with the shiny side of the copper busbars down. You can attach them to the surface with a simple adhesive tape, but not in a continuous strip around the entire perimeter, but at several points.
2. The cut points of the conductive busbars of thermocouples not used for connecting film underfloor heating are carefully insulated with bitumen tape, which should be included in the standard sales package.
3. The temperature sensor, which takes temperature readings and transmits them to the thermostat, is installed in a groove pre-cut in the substrate. It is placed under the film in such a way that the temperature-sensitive sensor is located under the carbon heat-radiating strip. It is recommended to fix the sensor and its wires under the film using bituminous insulating tape.
4. Terminals are connected to conductive busbars. In most cases, clip-on contacts are used, for which simple pliers are enough to crimp. The film floor of some manufacturers is equipped with rivet-type terminals; in very rare cases, soldering of the contacts is used.
5. Cables are also laid in accordance with the developed scheme. The ends are stripped of insulation by 7-10 mm and crimped in the shanks of the terminals. Experienced installers of underfloor heating recommend that you first connect the terminals to the film, and then attach the wires to the terminals.
6. All contact connections are carefully isolated. Bitumen tape is placed on top and bottom of the terminal to completely cover all conductive elements with a margin of 1.5-2 cm. The insulation is strongly compressed by hand, without the use of tools, which will prevent the possibility of damage.

Laying protective coatings

1. In order to completely protect the infrared film underfloor heating from moisture that can seep through the floor cladding, it is recommended to apply additional waterproofing. As a protective material, you can use a film of polyethylene (at least 200 microns thick) or vinyl (at least 100 microns). The film is spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, including areas where there are no heating elements. The cuts are laid with a mutual overlap of 15-20 cm and sealed with ordinary adhesive tape.
2. or on film warm floors is practically no different from the usual technology for installing these coatings. Only there is a need for more careful actions when the installation is carried out directly above the heating elements.

If a laminate is used as a floor covering, then the operation of a film underfloor heating can be started immediately after the installation process is completed. Parquet and parquet boards are more sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity in the room, they should be allowed at least 2-3 days to acclimatize.

However, a trial run of the IR system must be carried out before scraping and applying parquet lacquer. It is not recommended to start heating at maximum power, as this can lead to warping of natural wood dies. The initial temperature at the first start-up should not exceed 15°C. Every day it is necessary to turn on the warm floor for several hours, raising the temperature by 5 ° C. Only after all defects associated with temperature deformations have been identified and eliminated, it is possible to proceed to further surface treatment - scraping and coating it with varnish.

Laying under ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware can be laid on a film heated floor in two ways: dry - using gypsum-fiber (GVL) and glass-magnesite (SML) sheets or wet - on a cement-sand screed. Each of these methods has certain advantages and disadvantages.

As a substrate, thermal insulation materials with a low shrinkage rate and good heat-reflecting ability are used:

• roll cork with a thickness of at least 2 mm;
• isolon;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene for the floor (density not lower than 35);
• folgoizol.

Important! Heat-insulating materials with a reflective coating should not contain metallized foil. The reflective layer on them is applied by amalgamation, so it is not an electrical conductor.

Dry way

The substrate is laid over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, including those areas where the film floor heating will not be installed. Infrared elements are located in accordance with the plan for the placement of heating zones. A hydrobarrier and sheets of GVL or LSU with a thickness of at least 6-8 mm are laid out on top. The fastening of the sheets to the base must be carried out very carefully so that the fasteners do not damage the carbon layer or the copper contact busbars of the thermal film. Sheets are treated with a primer of the Betonokontakt type. After that, ceramic tiles are laid on heat-resistant glue.

The main advantage of the dry method is that the infrared film for underfloor heating is completely isolated from the negative effects of moisture and aggressive tile adhesive. Even in the case of poor-quality contact insulation, the probability of failure of the underfloor heating film is very low.

wet way

Far from always the best option for installing IR films, however, it is allowed. The main problem with the wet method is that the infrared film for underfloor heating has poor adhesion to tile adhesive. However, there are several tricks to ensure a sufficient level of adhesion of materials. For example, the base is treated with a primer that increases adhesion. The substrate is installed exclusively along the width of the infrared film - this will ensure contact between the base and the cement-sand screed. The indentation of the substrate from the wall should be at least 20-25 cm. Between the strips of infrared film underfloor heating, it is necessary to form indents of 2-5 cm. As a reinforcing layer for pouring, a fiberglass mesh with a cell of 5 × 5 mm or 10 × 10 mm is used. It must be fixed with dowels in places where the carbon strips are indented. The grid is covered with a layer of mortar literally a few millimeters thick.

Important! When embedding the heater in a cement-sand mixture, it is necessary to add appropriate modifiers to prevent temperature deformations, or immediately take ready-made heat-resistant adhesive compositions.

Special varieties of infrared film for underfloor heating are also used, better adapted to the wet method of laying under tiles:

• perforated - it has large holes over the entire area, which, although they reduce the overall heating effect, provide fairly reliable adhesion of the screed to the base. Example - MONOCRYSTAL 220 R;
• multilayer increased strength, containing several layers of protection. It can be installed without additional waterproofing. Example, Hi-Heat and Heat Plus (6 layers of protection).

The very process of installing a film underfloor heating in a sand-cement screed is quite laborious, and if the mortar layer is thick, this will somewhat reduce the efficiency of the system. However, the wet method makes it possible to form a surface more resistant to mechanical operational loads.

The first launch of the film floor mounted in a dry way under the tiles can be carried out no earlier than 6-8 days after the tile adhesive has completely dried. For the wet method, using sand-cement mixtures, the waiting period must be at least 28 days, that is, the total curing time and the set design strength of concrete. Premature activation can lead to uneven thermal deformations and cracking.

Selecting and connecting a thermostat

There are two main types of thermostats that are used to control the temperature of the underfloor heating film:

Mechanical (analogue) - the temperature is regulated by a rotary roller or buttons, the shutdown is controlled by a thermal relay. These devices are affordable and easy to use. The main disadvantage is the limitation in control and the inability to program the temperature regime.

Electronic - depending on the model, they can have push-button control, a digital display with a touch panel, or even receive commands via wi-fi. Several temperature sensors can be connected to them, both wired and transmitting information via radio. They have a wide range of programming options. They can automatically adjust the temperature depending on the time of day and day of the week. Their use leads to savings, on average, up to 30% of energy resources.

If it is necessary to connect several sections to one thermostat, then the scheme for connecting a film underfloor heating should provide for the use of certified terminal connectors, the use of twisting leads is strictly prohibited. As a rule, the thermostat has at least 6 pin connectors. The connection is carried out according to the diagram located on the back panel of the device, where the contacts for connecting the voltage L-phase, N-zero are indicated.

Important! If the film underfloor heating is used to heat a large area, more than 20 m 2, then the power is supplied directly from the switchboard through the RCD (residual current device).

The wires of the power supply line from the household network or switchboard through the RCD are connected to the contacts marked 220V 50Hz. Two other contacts, under which the maximum load is indicated, for example, 16A, are used to connect wires coming from a warm floor in compliance with the zero and phase markings. Grounding is carried out by direct connection of the corresponding (yellow-green) cables from the film and the RCD, bypassing the thermostat.

Conclusion

Modern technologies and the use of high-quality materials from leading manufacturers make it possible to install an infrared heated floor with your own hands. However, it should be noted that this is a rather laborious process, and the connection of the heating elements, the connection of the thermostat and the installation of the RCD must be checked by a certified electrician.

Do-it-yourself installation of an infrared warm floor is not particularly difficult. However, there are some nuances to be aware of. This will save you in the future from alterations or dismantling of the flooring.

Which side to put infrared film down?

The infrared film is placed on the base surface with the copper bars down. For example, on a film warm field of the RexVa brand, copper busbars are clearly visible from one side and not visible from the other. For other underfloor heating brands that have a transparent lamination, you can run your finger across the copper bus. If you feel the protrusion of the copper bus, then this is the bottom, if the protrusion is not felt, then the top.

In any case, if you install the infrared film on the contrary, nothing terrible will happen, it will work and heat as well. This installation recommendation comes from the fact that the top layer of some types of infrared film is made from a more wear-resistant lamination, RexVa, for example. And also, a slightly protruding lamination over a copper bus can wear out faster, but if you make a warm floor in an apartment, and not in an office with high traffic, then you will not be able to subject the infrared film to heavy wear.

What is the distance between the strips of infrared film?

Many manuals recommend leaving a distance between the pieces of infrared film from one to several centimeters. In fact, it increases the cold bridge just enough to be felt on the feet. Given that there are strips 1-2 cm wide along the edges of the film that do not heat, we get a fairly decent unheated area. Linoleum, laminate or carpet do not transfer heat from the place of heating to the sides, unlike screed or tiles.

It is best to keep the distance between the bands of the infrared film to a minimum and fix the film on the substrate to prevent the bands from shifting and crossing.

What substrate can be used for infrared underfloor heating?

The classic recommendation is to use reflective polyethylene foam insulation with a lavsan reflective layer. Lavsan is a polymer film, it does not conduct electricity, and if laid in a screed, it is not corroded by the alkaline environment of mortar or concrete.

In practice, you can use a regular laminate substrate, without a reflective layer, or cork and any other substrate, if it has already been purchased. Yes, a reflective layer is preferable, in any case, if you don’t want to spend money again, you can leave what you have. The main thing is not to lay the film on a bare base, the loss of heat and electricity, in such cases, increases.

What are the ways to connect an infrared floor heating to the supply wires?

Special mounting kits are sold for connecting infrared film. Such kits include two special clips, they are also called "crabs" or "crocodiles", the correct name is a clip and 6 pieces of bitumen insulation measuring 5x5 cm.

Also, a kit with the same bitumen insulation (it can sometimes look different) and with eyelet-based connection can be used. These are two ring tips and two sets of male and female eyelets.

When using a set with eyelets, the connection is slightly less in thickness. But it is better to crimp such a kit with a special tool. Although, if you can bend nickels with your fingers, then you can crimp them with ordinary pliers. Clips from the first set are easier to crimp with pliers than eyelets.

It should be taken into account that when connecting with the above kits, it is necessary to install clips or lugs between the lamination and the copper bus.

In addition, you can connect the power wires to the warm floor by soldering. In this case, the lamination layer is cut off from the copper bar, the bar is lightly cleaned with a sharp knife. Soldering is carried out using rosin, acid cannot be used, otherwise, in the future, there will be oxidation of the soldering site.

How to install the temperature sensor correctly?

Incidents constantly occur with the installation of a temperature sensor. Either they will wall it up in a screed, or they will lay the corrugated pipe in such a way that it is impossible to replace it, well, the sensor does not go through all the bends.

The correct installation of the corrugated pipe is shown in the photo.

I note that the corrugated pipe is intended only for installing a temperature sensor. Power wires, as seen in the photo, are mounted in a strobe. In any case, the temperature sensor is installed so that it can be replaced with minimal effort and without major disassembly of the finish.

What area of ​​infrared floor heating can be connected to one thermostat?

This question is not difficult. To figure out how much area of ​​an infrared warm floor one thermostat will pull, you need to know the power of one square meter. Next, we multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe film by the power and get watts for the entire available area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe warm floor. For example:

We have a piece of infrared floor heating meter wide, 5 meters long, respectively, area 5 m2, power 220 W/m2

We consider: 5m2 * 220W = 1100 W or 1.1 kW.

We look at the instructions for the thermostat, for example, it draws 3.6 kW or 3600 W, respectively. We have more than 3 times less - 1.1 kW, we pass.

In the case of an infrared film floor whose power is 220 W / m2, there is an easier way. He has 1 m2 in terms of current strength is 1 ampere. The ampere is the current, calculated by dividing the power by the voltage. In our case, we divide the power of 220 W by the mains voltage of 220 volts and get one, i.e. 1 amp.
On the thermostat, in addition to the power it supports (in watts), there is also an allowable current strength, which is measured in amperes (A). As a rule, most thermostats are designed for 16 amperes, you can check in the instructions, there are also 2 A and 4 A and 30 A.

When calculating, there is one subtlety, you cannot load the thermostat at full power, you must leave a margin. From practice do not load the 16 amp thermostat with more than 12-13 amps.

It turns out that the maximum area of ​​infrared floor heating (at 220 W/m2) is 12-13 m2 per one 16-amp thermostat.

How to connect pieces of infrared film together?

The wire connection of sections or strips of underfloor heating is carried out using mounting kits, in particular clips. Wires for connection are selected soft stranded, for example, grades PuGV (PV3), with a cross section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm 2.

The connection scheme itself is quite simple and is a parallel connection of all infrared film strips.

I spoke about the installation of the temperature sensor above, I will only say that the sensor itself should be located anywhere in the heating area /

Is it possible to turn on infrared floor heating without a thermostat?

Yes, you can. Connecting an infrared floor heating without a thermostat will not damage it. You can connect the infrared film directly to the network and check the correct installation. After connection, within 1-2 minutes the film will heat up and it will be possible to make sure that the installation is correct.

What is the maximum heating temperature for infrared floor heating?

The maximum heating temperature of the infrared film depends on how it is installed and the external conditions, in particular the temperature in the room, the amount of heat loss, etc.

In our experiments, the heating of the infrared film without the use of a thermostat reached 100 degrees. Conditions - a warm room, a piece of film lies on a heater with a reflective layer, covered from above with something dense and poorly conducting heat. It should be noted that such conditions are rather an exception than a practice. In actual operation, the temperature of the infrared floor heating will always be limited by the thermostat and the outside temperature.

Below you can see a photo of the temperature of the infrared floor heating installed in a cool room.

Film floor temperature between cardboard on the floor The temperature of the film on the inner surface of the table. The film is installed under the worktop without thermal insulation on both sides The temperature was measured 30 minutes after switching on. Thermostats are not installed, the film floor is connected directly to the network.

Do I need to put an RCD in the system?

The issue of installing an RCD is best addressed to a professional electrician. According to modern requirements, the installation of an RCD is mandatory and it is better to do this if possible. At the same time, the installation and selection of RCDs depends on the type of electrical network, and here a competent electrician will suggest a solution.

Is it possible to install infrared film on the ceiling, walls?

Yes, you can. Moreover, in some cases, this is the only way to mount infrared film. Of course, a warm floor is more comfortable for a person and at the same time, ceiling or wall heating is also a good option for heating a home.

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Experience shows that the use of a heating cable is a solution that is as effective as electric fireplaces and convectors. The “stealth” of such a cable also deserves attention: being located under a decorative coating, it saves usable space, which is especially appreciated by the owners of small rooms. The number of people who want to know how to choose this heating element for underfloor heating is steadily increasing, and therefore this topic should be discussed in more detail.

Peculiarities

First of all, it should be noted that the high popularity of the heating cable is due to its impressive efficiency. It converts almost all electrical energy into heat, minimizing losses and achieving optimal consumption of available resources.

This is especially noticeable if the insulation of the lower layer is used and there are no errors during the installation process.

If we single out situations for which a warm floor is considered the best solution, then their list will look like this:

• the use of cold coatings (as an option, ceramic tiles);
• high level of humidity in the premises (most often these are bathrooms);

• inability to connect to central heating (relevant for dressing rooms and hallways, as well as insulated loggias and balconies);
• the need for heating suburban real estate.

Another notable feature of the floors equipped with a heating cable is the possibility of their installation under a variety of types of coatings. It is enough just to get acquainted with the principle of operation and arrangement of such heating systems, as well as with their main varieties.

Operating principle

The functioning of heating cables implies the ability of their material, which is a special alloy, to convert electricity into heat. All of them have maximum moisture protection, and their power is in the range of 10-30 W per 1 meter.

As for the forms in which such cables can be presented, these are:

• coils;
• section systems;
• rolls (mats).

The latter option is fixed with a snake on a reinforcing mesh, which can be cut, but on condition that the wires providing heating and power are not affected. Thus, heating mats make it easy to bypass furniture, appliances and other interior items. In most cases, such heating systems involve the use of a two-wire resistive cable, and the termination of their supply conductor is performed by means of a heat-shrinkable tube.

It is also worth adding that the composition of the warm floor includes:

• cable;
• temperature controller - manual or with program control;
• temperature sensors - internal or external.

As a rule, in the maximum load mode, the cable heats up to a temperature of 60-65°C. Its standard values, relevant for normal everyday use, are much lower - about 30 ° C.

But the insulation of the heating cable can easily withstand significantly higher temperatures - up to 100 ° C.

Primary requirements

Before proceeding with the selection of a cable for underfloor heating, the property owner should draw up a detailed plan of his home. It should include accurate information about the location of stationary interior items, the surfaces under which it is not advisable to warm.

• multiplying the length of the room by its width;
• calculation of the total area occupied by furniture and appliances;
• subtracting the second result from the first.

As for the power of the conductor, sufficient for full-fledged heating of the room, then, depending on the specifics of the latter, its values ​​​​are:

• living rooms, bedrooms, hallways and kitchens - 100 W;
• bathrooms and toilets - 150 W;
• balconies and loggias - 200 watts.

If the owner of the dwelling plans to use the cable in coils, then in his situation the calculation will be more complicated. This is due to the need to take into account several additional parameters, the main of which are the steps of the turns, the length of the heating cable and its power density.

In addition, the following requirements should be taken into account:

• for apartments, underfloor heating should play the role of an auxiliary source of heating, and not the main one;
• in buildings made of wood, you need a cable with a power not exceeding 2 kW;
• if a warm floor is installed to heat stairs, ramps and other architectural elements located on the street, its rated power should be 4 kW;
• the length of the cable used to create one circuit must not be interrupted;
• the transition of the conductor from room to room is unacceptable in order to avoid its refraction;
• installation of one circuit is most justified for rooms whose area does not exceed 25 square meters. m.

In addition, for the arrangement of a warm floor, it is strongly recommended to use only complete accessories and spare parts, the characteristics of which are optimally combined with each other.

Kinds

Among all the forms of cable release for underfloor heating used in apartments, mats are the most popular - products that do not require the owner of the home to perform most of the calculations. If we highlight the decorative coating, which is rightfully considered optimal, then this is a tile or ceramic granite. Two types of heating cable used in modern systems deserve special mention:

• Resistive. Such elements may include the presence of one or two wires. The two-core version is less complicated in laying, but its cost is somewhat higher than that of the single-core one. In such cables, one conductor acts as a heater, while the second provides power. Regardless of the number of cores, the presented view is ideal for a screed floor, due to the fact that concrete cools extremely slowly.

• Self-regulating ("self-heating"). This type of cable is interesting in that the heat transfer to them directly depends on the temperature in the room. At the same time, in situations where a lack of heat is observed only in certain areas of the surface, the self-regulating cable will intensely heat them. It is easy to guess that such systems are more expensive than resistive ones.

Worthy of consideration and mats, the most popular varieties of which include:

• Cable. This solution is a single-core resistive cable that is serpentine attached to the mesh. It is reasonable to use such mats under tiles, which is explained by their small thickness.
• Carbon fiber (carbon fiber). The described type of mats assumes the presence of rod heating elements connected in parallel. Their main feature is infrared radiation generated as a result of exposure to electric current and acting as a heat source. It is noteworthy that the rods function independently of each other, providing heating according to a self-regulating principle. Carbon fiber mats, like those mentioned above, make sense to lay under ceramic tiles.
• Film. This mat, which also uses infrared radiation for heating, provides for the presence of carbon rods in a polymer film.

It should be noted that such systems are sensitive to overheating, and therefore laying under stationary interior items is contraindicated for them.

Another noteworthy point is the impossibility of laying tiles on top of film mats. The fact is that the glue used to fix the coating in question does not provide a connection with the film, which is why experts recommend using plywood or chipboard for carpet or linoleum instead of tiles.

Mounting

In addition, during the installation process, any kind of damage to the laid conductors should not be allowed. As for whether it is possible to shorten or lengthen the heating cable and whether it is allowed to cut it, then such measures should be treated with extreme caution. The reason for this is very prosaic: the length of the kit implies a specific resistance value, a change in which can lead to incorrect operation of the system and even to its failure.

• The most common installation of a heating cable in a screed. To implement it, you need to follow these steps step by step:
• Foundation preparation. Provides for pouring a 3-centimeter layer of cement-sand mixture.
• Cold wire laying. Allows you to connect the thermostat to the underfloor heating system by creating a channel with a section of 20x20 cm.
• Installation of a socket for a temperature controller.

• Placement of a substrate capable of reflecting heat. The use of this element under the cable allows you to accelerate the heating of the system and reduce the consumption of electrical energy.
• Installation tape. An alternative solution that provides reliable cable fastening is reinforcing mesh.
• Filling with a cement screed having a thickness of about 40 mm. It is important that the solution tightly fills all the cavities: this way you can achieve the best heat transfer performance.
• Measurement of resistance - isolation and ohmic.

The final stage of the arrangement is the laying of a decorative coating.

This event can be carried out after the screed has completely dried - after about 3 decades from the moment it was poured.

Clamp fixing

Flip the foil face down. For the convenience of layering the lavsan, there are special air spaces along the edges of the copper bus, because the adhesive base tightly binds the lavsan to the copper bus. You can use a clerical knife, screwdriver, scissors. Important!!! Do not damage the first heating strip, it is best to leave at least 5 mm before it.
We insert the clamp in such a way that one of the contact pads of the clamp is pressed against the copper bus directly.
We compress the clamp with the help of pliers with the force of both hands. Do not hit the clamp with a hammer or other object. The clip must not go over the heating strip.

Soldering contacts

Stage 1
To connect contacts (cord - ShVVP, cable - PV3) to a copper bus, you will need:
- infrared film floor, 0.5 m wide, up to 8 m long;
- ShVVP cord 0.75 mm2. size, depending on the area of ​​​​the object and the installation locations of the thermostat;
- electrical insulating tape (with temperature characteristics and electrically transmissive characteristics);
- soldering iron, rosin, tin.

Stage 2
Flip the foil face down. For the convenience of layering the lavsan, there are special air spaces along the edges of the copper bus, because the adhesive base tightly binds the lavsan to the copper bus. You can use a clerical knife, screwdriver, scissors.
Important!!! Do not damage the first heating strip, it is best to leave at least 5 mm before it.

Stage 3
From the edge of the copper bus (left or right), in places of special air spaces, we make a cut of the first lavsan sheet to access the copper bus.

Stage 4
At the site of the soldering place, we bend the lavsan sheet, put a piece of "solder" (tin).

Stage 5
Having applied part of the rosin to the soldering iron, we bring the soldering iron to the copper bus and prepare the contact point

stage 6
The cable is stripped and tinned. Contact should not be too long.
Ready contact to achieve a flatter shape is compressed with pliers.

Stage 7
We bring the tinned wire to the prepared soldering area on the copper bus and hold until the moment of connection (2-3 seconds).

Stage 8
For one contact, 2 pieces of electrical insulation are required.
One strip of underfloor heating is insulated in 4 places (2 with soldered wires, 2 on the reverse side)

Stage 9
Insulation of the soldering point on one side.

10 stage
Insulation of the soldering point on the second side. After that, it is required to press tightly at the junctions of the electrical insulating tape.

Stage 11
Ready-made assembly kit for the implementation of the soldering point.
On each strip of underfloor heating, soldering points should not exceed more than 2x, i.e. Connecting contacts from both sides is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN!!!

The question is missing the data needed to give you a specific answer. In particular, neither the brand of the cable nor even its type is mentioned. It is also unclear whether the place of the cliff (cut) is known or whether it has yet to be found. Since you did not consider it necessary to provide this simple information, our recommendations will be of a general nature.

Finding the place of the break

This will require an electromagnetic radiation scanner. Consistently, turn by turn, by examining the cable hidden under the tile, you can find the place of the break.

It is impossible to find a hidden cable break without the appropriate equipment

Dismantling tiles

There are no "magic" methods of repairing electrical wiring without direct contact with it. The tile in the right place will have to be removed, and the cement-sand screed will be partially dismantled, trying not to damage the cable.

Cable connection

There are many types of heating cables, their design is very different. Each of them has its own recovery method.

Heating cables are single and two-core, they can have one common shielding braid or two protective braids. The screen can be single or multilayer, solid or woven. There are also cables with carbon cores, their repair is a separate issue.

Cable repair consists in the fact that all its current-carrying and insulating circuits must be restored with the preservation of all technical characteristics, without reducing the level of electrical safety and service life. It is not recommended to connect the cores by twisting or soldering; it is better to use special couplings consisting of connectors and heat-shrink insulating sheaths. Universal models of couplings, given the variety of designs of heating cables, do not exist.

Connectors and shrink sleeves are selected depending on the type of cable. Pay attention not only to the dimensions of the connecting elements, but also to the material from which they are made. Its electrical characteristics must correspond to the type of conductors and screen

It is necessary to connect not only the conductive cores, but also the shielding sheath. After completing the heating of the insulating sheath, you should make sure that it tightly compresses the wire.

Example of repairing a shielded two-core heating cable

Having completed the repair of the cable, we fill it with a cement-sand mortar, leaving no voids. Put the tile back on.

If you do not have experience in such work and find it difficult to choose the types of connecting elements, we strongly recommend that you entrust the repair of the underfloor heating cable to specialists. Of course, you will have to pay a little money, but save time and be sure of the result. Contact the company where you purchased the underfloor heating, they will help you.

After watching this short video on the topic “how to repair a cable for a warm electric floor with your own hands”, it may seem that this is an easy task. But this is only at first glance, difficulties may arise at the stage of selecting a special solder, and it is problematic to connect such a cable without an insert. By the way, we do not recommend repairing by soldering at all, this is not reliable enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=85&v=r6oQNvMO7WQ