12.04.2012, 23:52

moreover, in such a way that it is saturated without gaps and after drying the niello is not dissolved by water, alcohol, or better yet, nothing at all.

I bought black baize, it “works” well for its intended purpose - to blacken the surface. but it inks reliably to a depth of one tenth of a mm (or even less). after drying, it does not handle wet hands, which is good, but I haven’t tried the rest, because... does not satisfy the main requirement: the wood must be beautifully blackened through and through.

13.04.2012, 14:18

What type of wood and why do you need through blackening?
If you paint it, no paint will paint it deeply. It needs to be treated with chemicals. Here are a few recipes that I know, i.e. used it myself;
1 - soak the wood in rusty water with the addition of vinegar. Before drying, you need to keep it in clean water for a while. Or blacken without vinegar.
2 - Iron sulfate colors wood from gray to black, depending on the strength and time.
3 - Beech in 5 minutes in a hot solution of manganese in water reaches a black color of 5 mm. If longer, it may be deeper.
The presence of tannins in metal salts improves etching.
There is also this table that might be useful to someone:
http://popgun.ru/files/g/5/orig/185332.jpg

13.04.2012, 17:23

Murom, thank you! I'll try some of this.

Denis Shulman

13.04.2012, 21:49

A very reliable method of blackening is heat treatment. The big minus is the change in the properties of wood.

13.04.2012, 23:48

Hobby, try pressure painting. A friend of mine, a woodcarver, “made” “ebony” from linden. I took a piece of a car inner tube, glued it on one side and, turning it on itself, pulled it together with two strips using clamps, poured in a dye solution, put a piece of wood with a piece of “stainless steel” attached - so as not to float up - the other end of the inner tube was sealed in exactly the same way, only without gluing , pumped up the camera and “forgot” about it.
After two weeks, a block with a cross section of 60 by 60 mm was painted through. He used a regular dye for cotton fabrics.
The “African” figures turned out great!
As for “not soluble in water, alcohol, or better than anything at all,” I think
mordant dyeing only.
P.S. Have you tried a tanning agent with iron acetate?

14.04.2012, 12:09

Hobby, try pressure painting.
Well, if you don’t want to poison with iron salts, but really want deep staining with dye, then it’s better to do everything the other way around: place wood in a sealed hard chamber, pump out the air from it (with a special return pump, which can easily be converted from a regular one by moving the rubber rings in reverse through again, reverse nipple - insert the nipple not into the chamber, but into the pump with the reverse side), and then let paint into the chamber, which completely covers the wood. Then let air into the chamber. Oops - and all the paint goes inside :-)

14.04.2012, 21:52

Deep impregnation is done faster by alternating hot and cold soaking. The physics is the same - pressure difference.

15.04.2012, 15:15

Well, if you don’t want to poison with iron salts, but really want deep staining with dye, then it’s better to do everything the other way around: place wood in a sealed hard chamber, pump out the air from it (with a special return pump, which can easily be converted from a regular one by moving the rubber rings in reverse through again, reverse nipple - insert the nipple not into the chamber, but into the pump with the reverse side), and then let paint into the chamber, which completely covers the wood. Then let air into the chamber. Oops la - and all the paint goes inside
And to be on the safe side, you can also pump excess pressure into the chamber using a direct pump through a straight nipple

Well, just like science, then:

63375
M - pressure gauge-vacuum gauge
B1, B2, B3 – valves

The top lid of the container can be made from a sheet of thick rubber, as in vacuum dryers.
(In principle, this is the circuit of a vacuum dryer, with the “addition” of B1 and B3)
Only reduce the pressure in the container gradually, in several stages - the walls of the wood cells may burst.

Boiling point of water:
0.75 atm – 92o C
0.5 atm - 82o C
Research shows that temperatures up to eighty degrees do not affect the strength properties of wood. The same cannot be said about higher temperatures.

26.05.2012, 21:01

During this time I tried everything. various warriors (in powder and already diluted), iron filings in vinegar, other dyes.
the most successful one, the one that suits me, turned out to be black dye for cotton, 64857
they have “simple”, cheaper, and “real” (echt), which does not mean “true”, but the fact that it does not fade or fade later (it seems).
I painted small test samples of maple veneer and kept them in a glass jar for 10 days (that was the vacation). veneer 0.6 mm thick (I bought a piece of 3 meters 250 mm wide on eBay for a few euros, it should be enough for me and my grandchildren if they are interested) was painted through to raven black (one of the warriors also gave such a wonderful color, but in a week it didn’t soaked it, there were not even gray, but white inclusions left), the color tone is excellent. I have now “loaded” a batch of pieces about 40 mm wide and about half a meter long in a “dishes” that I bought for a couple of euros in building materials: this is a piece of sewer pipe half a meter long (costs 1.5), and a plug for it (costs 50 cents).
one pack of dye would be enough to saturate an entire cotrabass, I believe.
Maybe this experience will be useful to someone.

06.06.2012, 22:24

06.06.2012, 22:39

Well, if you don’t want to poison with iron salts, but really want deep staining with dye, then it’s better to do everything the other way around: place wood in a sealed hard chamber, pump out the air from it (with a special return pump, which can easily be converted from a regular one by moving the rubber rings in reverse through again, reverse nipple - insert the nipple not into the chamber, but into the pump with the reverse side), and then let paint into the chamber, which completely covers the wood. Then let air into the chamber. Oops - and all the paint goes inside :-)
And to be on the safe side, you can also pump excess pressure into the chamber using a direct pump through a straight nipple

Why such difficulties? they sell a vacuum pump for canning with a set of lids.. take at least a ten-liter jar (I have two of these for cucumbers), or a three-liter jar and soak it in oil, even with indelible mascara... Take care of the vessels, in wood they’re like pipes for an organ. If you find a way to clean them of toxins, you are on top. Just not acid...

07.06.2012, 00:09

Take care of the vessels, in wood they are like pipes for an organ. If you find a way to clean them of toxins, you are on top. Just not acid...
and the tree has problems with blood vessels, and toxins need to be removed...

07.06.2012, 07:05

"launched pilot-project". some nuances emerged. echoes the joke “Jews! Don’t skimp on the tea leaves!”
Only when I poured all the funfuric into this half-liter device of mine and poured some additional salt into it (the fixative, if I understood the purpose correctly, in chemistry was strong only in gold and halogens), did it get the same black tint as in the prototypes. I now have samples of “1/4 of everything for half a liter”, “1/2 of everything for half a liter” and “all contents (only half of the salt) for half a liter”.
Only the last option is truly black. I can take a photo and show you. Compared to ebony veneer, everyone probably wins. option 1/4 loses a little (or simply doesn’t win) in black, but in terms of uniformity it’s a hero!

Bog oak, like other wood with unusual texture and color, is a material that nature spends more than one century creating. Furniture or decor made from such wood looks luxurious, but is not affordable for most consumers. There is an easy way to achieve a similar external result at home. What is staining (fuming) with ammonia and how does it affect wood? Let's figure it out.

To create an ammonia haze, use a regular solution of ammonium hydroxide (10%), which can be purchased at a pharmacy or hardware store. The good thing about this method is that you don’t need to purchase additional equipment or work in a separate room; ammonia staining can be carried out in a workshop or living room, which is equipped with an exhaust hood and good ventilation.

The popularity of ammonia staining was brought about by Gustav Stickley, an American furniture designer and manufacturer, in the nineteenth century. The master accidentally saw an unusual way to change the color of wood in a small workshop, and then used the improved method in his work and mass production. I described it in detail in the book Craftsman Homes.

What is the effect of ammonia staining?

Ammonia fumes affect the tannins in the wood, causing the material to change color to a darker one.

Advantages: Ammonia staining does not change the structure of the wood, but only darkens the main tone, leaving all the veins and grains visible. This is important when staining exotic woods or materials that have interesting textures, such as ash.

Flaws: It is difficult to control the darkening process with ammonia haze. Different batches of wood or different parts of the same furniture can differ greatly from each other, despite using the same process and accurately selecting the percentage of ammonia.

In industrial production, it is not household ammonia that is used, but ammonium hydroxide (concentration from 26 to 30%). Such staining is carried out only in sealed chambers, and the craftsmen supervising the process are required to wear gas masks, long gloves, and eye protection.

What wood is used for ammonia haze?

The selected method is suitable for wood with a high content of tannins (tannins). The most popular wood species for using ammonia haze: oak, chestnut, ash. When treated with ammonium hydroxide vapor, this wood acquires a rich, luxurious color in shades from light coffee to black (depending on the exposure time).

Maple, hornbeam, birch, lilac, ash, hazel, and elm will not respond to treatment with ammonia vapors, or after prolonged exposure they will acquire an unattractive, dirty tint and become stained.

Designers and technologists are still trying to use ammonia haze for wood with a low tannin content. Through experiments, it turned out that if you saturate the surface of the workpiece with strong tea, let it dry, and then place it in a stain chamber or tank, the wood will still darken, but will not have such rich shades as oak or chestnut.

Staining process

Before staining, prepare a tightly sealed tank or staining chamber, depending on the size of the item you are going to paint.

You can make a staining chamber yourself. Assemble a frame from any wooden or plastic guides, wrap it with film. The main rule: the chamber is made as small as possible so that the concentration of ammonia vapor is maximum.

A wide bowl is placed at the bottom of the tank, and the wood that needs to be painted is placed above it. Make sure that the edges of the parts do not come into contact with each other or with the walls of the tank; do not use metal stands. If you plan to use the wood not completely, then it can be leaned against the wall above the bowl, so the main part will be completely open to ammonia vapor, and the points of contact will then be cut off.

Next, ammonium hydroxide is quickly poured into the bowl, and the container is tightly closed. The staining time with ammonia haze can range from 2 hours to a day. This period depends on the color you want to get. Once the process is complete, open the lid. Ready! You've got a classic stained wood.

Sometimes, due to humidity or a weak ammonia solution, the surface of the wood after staining is slightly deformed, and the top layer is partially lifted. In this case, you can simply sand the painted layer; do not be afraid to spoil the shade; with standard ammonia staining, the color changes over the entire surface of the product to a depth of 3–4 mm.

Safety precautions when staining with ammonia

Ammonia hydroxide is used in the household and sold without a prescription, but when using it you need to follow a few simple rules:

• Wear rubber gloves, safety glasses and a respirator. Do not expect that you will have time to quickly move away from the dishes in which the staining will take place without inhaling the fumes.
• Work only in a room with good ventilation or fully open windows; if it is possible to carry out the staining process outside, use it. You need to think through the weathering system before starting treatment, since the room will be filled with vapor in a few seconds.
• Use glass or plastic containers; ammonia can dissolve metal, especially aluminum.
• After finishing the staining process, the composition must be disposed of. The best way is to pour the used ammonia into a bucket of water and pour the resulting solution into a compost heap or onto beds under the roots of plants. You will receive free fertilizer.

Finishing with oil

Not all craftsmen treat stained wood with oil, but this process is recommended by professional restorers and designers. Properly selected oil will not only make the shade of the wood more noble and add a soft shine, but will also protect it from fading if the product is exposed to direct sunlight.

Recommended to use beeswax oil, formulations based on linseed oil are also suitable. The treatment is carried out in a standard way: the oil is carefully rubbed into the surface of the wood, after half an hour or an hour the excess is removed with a coarse, clean cloth.

The product is then placed in direct sunlight, such as on a window, to speed up the darkening process. The product needs to be turned several times during the day to achieve an even shade. Two days are enough for complete absorption and obtaining the desired color.

If you are completely satisfied with the shade obtained after oil treatment, then there is no need to expose the product to the sun; leave it in a cool, dry place and allow the composition to be completely absorbed.

1. Description
2. Characteristics of wood
3. Black hornbeam

Before using any types of fasteners, preliminary drilling of the material is required. It holds screws and nails perfectly, which is good for securing connections between furniture and complex parts.

When using fresh wood in everyday life, it is recommended to cut and grind the products until the material is dried - in this form it is easier to process.

Despite its natural high density and wear resistance, hornbeam is considered a rather complex and impractical species, as it quickly becomes wet and is prone to damage by fungus and other biological pathogens. It cannot be used without additional etching and finishing and is not suitable for external work. The crimped structure of the fibers and low bonding ability do not allow the use of hornbeam as a structural building material: plywood or laminated veneer lumber. It is not used for outdoor work. Indoors, the hornbeam surface should be covered with protective impregnations and thick layers of varnish. Do not use the material in rooms with high humidity.

Areas and features of application

This wood finds its purpose where resistance to shock loads is needed: in the manufacture of decorative elements, mechanical parts, and sports items. From it they produce:

• golf clubs, billiard cues;
• weaving shuttles;
• agricultural tools;
• bodies and neck elements of violins, guitars, parts of pianos, and other musical instruments;
• cutting boards, knife handles;
• boxes, toys, souvenirs, frames for paintings, panels and photographs;
• furniture, parquet, interior design details.

Thanks to its noble light pearl color and durability, hornbeam wood has high artistic value and is used in creating mosaic designs, friezes and decorative elements.

Hornbeam is used to produce parts for aircraft propellers.

On average, the price for 1 m³ of wood, depending on the manufacturer, is 40,000–46,000 rubles.

It is believed that furniture or decoration made from this type of wood relieves fatigue, gives physical strength, helps coordinate thoughts and actions, and gets rid of bad mood.

Black hornbeam

The light structure of wood with a subtle natural pattern makes it attractive for making various imitations. By pickling the material, black hornbeam is obtained, which is similar in properties and appearance to ebony. For high-quality dyeing, nigrosins are used - special mixtures based on aniline, nitrobenzene and hydrochloric acid, dissolved in water or alcohols. They give the material a clean, bright color that is resistant to direct sunlight. Professional etching involves through coloring of the entire thickness of the material, rather than surface application of paint. It is not recommended to pickle wood yourself, since when using home-made chemical dyes it can lose strength, become loose or unevenly painted. Masterfully crafted, imitated as ebony, black hornbeam has a very dark purple tint that does not fade or fade over time, and does not get dirty due to mechanical impact on the surface. Black hornbeam is sold in small quantities in the form of small bars.

The so-called non-commercial low-grade hornbeam wood is used as a raw material in the hydrolysis production of the chemical industry, for the production of charcoal, and as a fuel material in everyday life.

If used correctly, hornbeam can become an element of a beautiful landscape and serve as a high-quality and exquisite material for the manufacture of interior items or decorations.

Scunc 20-09-2012 18:18

Hello everyone, I needed to make a black beech handle, I thought Nivapros, but no (Of all the stains, black is only “ebony” from Novbytkhim, for some reason there are no more stains. In general... after being in a jar with stain, the handle becomes black , but the stain is thick and forms a kind of coating, respectively, with smudges. And you can wash them off with gasoline or acetone (alcohol does not work), and after that the beech of course turns black, BUT it doesn’t turn out black (like ebony or blackwood) but it turns out something - it’s like half-seasoned oak—dark and with light fibers.

How's that????

Lesnoi 94 20-09-2012 18:24

You can, of course, use very strong potassium permanganate.. I tried the color “radical black”, but after six months of hard kitchen use it was a little peeling. More greenhouse conditions, maybe it will withstand.. In general, the most interesting thing is that 2 handles need to be painted.. “ebony” I tried it with stain, but the result wasn’t particularly impressive either

AndYur 20-09-2012 19:42

I also chemically treated beech with potassium permanganate, after 2 years of “bearable” use, pleasant brown abrasions appeared, turning into a lighter color, I like it.
Don’t scold me for the handle now, this was at the dawn of my Finnish production, 6 years ago...

alex-wolff 20-09-2012 21:10

quote: Originally posted by Scunc:

I really want to get a completely black color)
How's that????

paint with black paint.

Scunc 20-09-2012 21:31

arkuda 20-09-2012 21:56

Friends, somewhere on friendly resources like knifemaking there was a topic on “ebonization of wood”. As far as I remember the recipe:

Serjant 20-09-2012 22:26

black mascara plus a small vacuum pump...
soaked through...
Details in Note about vacuum impregnation.

Lesnoi 94 20-09-2012 23:09

I found a photo of that knife. what I wrote above: (after about six months in the kitchen:

Scunc 20-09-2012 23:24

and then finish with teak or carnauba?

tref70 21-09-2012 01:03

Take small nails, degrease them and fill them with acetic acid, put them in a dark place for a week, they warn you that they stink a lot. Then saturate the wood with this. They promised a radically black color. I haven’t tried it myself, so don’t swear too much.

A small note. Back in Soviet times, such advice was published in the journal Science and Life. You just had to take rusty nails and they recommended it as a chemical stain specifically for oak. I tried it myself on oak and the result was a radically blue-black color, even after the first impregnation. I don't remember the smell anymore

arkuda 21-09-2012 10:25

I googled a little: there is a technology for ebonization, small nails should be properly degreased in gasoline and acetic acid for a week in a dark place. They definitely use it for nuts, I don’t know for other species. Although hornbeam stained black smells like vinegar. We have to try.

alligator1486 21-09-2012 10:37

aniline dyes for wool, tried it on beech, complete blackness, I liked it

Guruwamba 21-09-2012 14:52

quote: Originally posted by arkuda:

Take small nails, degrease them and fill them with acetic acid

I remembered something about blackening teeth with the same iron acetate:
http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohaguro
You can also stain it gray with very strong copper sulfate. You can experiment with tea too.

MukhAN 21-09-2012 15:01

quote: A small note. Back in Soviet times, such advice was published in the journal Science and Life. You just had to take rusty nails and they recommended it as a chemical stain specifically for oak. I tried it myself on oak and the result was a radically blue-black color, even after the first impregnation. I don't remember the smell anymore

It is on OAK, because tannins work there. And in general, all iron salts work on oak (iron sulfate, ferric chloride...)

------------------
Sincerely.

yuriikjl 23-09-2012 18:32

If it’s no hassle and it’s not particularly deep, hair dye (cheap) will do.

Siniy Borod 25-09-2012 21:13

Soaking in iron sulfate gives a dark gray color with a cold tint (quite deep)... at school we etched veneer onto marquetry this way...

Lesnoi 94 28-09-2012 20:07

Apparently, it’s not for nothing that the “ebony” stain didn’t impress me... I’ll look for aniline paint...

prim2005 29-09-2012 15:25

I dilute the stains with acetone. It soaks in a few mm overnight. "Bog oak" gives a black color close to "radical"