When funds do not allow for a multi-level ceiling design or there are budget constraints, ceiling tiles are used. This material is unique: with its simplicity, it allows you to update any interior without much effort and the involvement of repair teams.

You can make the tiles on the ceiling yourself: it will not take much time, and the result will look quite professional.

Peculiarities

Ceiling tiles are predominantly square fragments of various sizes (about 50 x 50 cm) made of natural and synthetic materials. If earlier they were exclusively white, today you can find blue, beige, pinkish, milky tiles, as well as options with a colored pattern on store shelves. This material, folding into a monolithic canvas, forms different patterns that give the space of any room elegance and comfort.

The ceiling tile differs in the surface texture. It can be matte and glossy. The material is unique in that some of its varieties allow surface staining. Thanks to this, there is no need to re-glue the cladding if the surface is dirty. For renewal, it is enough to roll it with a paint roller or spacril. So you can maintain a beautiful and fresh appearance of the ceiling for up to 10 years.

A distinctive feature of the material is sound insulation: ceiling tiles make the room warmer, reducing extraneous noise from neighboring apartments. It doesn't matter what its thickness is. Depending on the type of material and its density, these raw materials need to be handled carefully and carefully. You need to glue such a tile carefully, otherwise at the time of pasting the ceiling, you can deform the fragment, leaving unsightly dents on its surface that are visible to the naked eye.

When working with tiles, the possibility of breakage is not excluded. therefore trimming must be done with a sharp tool. If there are jagged edges on the cutting blade at the time of trimming, the material may chip, which can cause the corner to break off. Dirty and rusty tools must not be used in the work: they can lead to contamination of the glued fragments, which is especially noticeable in the overall picture of the cladding. Even the cleanliness of the hands matters: they will have to be constantly washed, since the adhesive composition gets on them during the finishing process. It is unacceptable for it to hit the tile, it will be noticeable, since not every adhesive can be removed from the surface perfectly.

To finish the ceiling, you will have to buy material with a margin: this will eliminate the lack of panels in the event of a marriage or improper cutting when fitting.

Panel types

Ceiling panels are classified according to production method, type of surface, shape, material of manufacture and size. Thanks to these features, you can visually change the area of ​​space, beat the unevenness of the surface. Today, these panels are made from synthetics (foam), wood and even metal, although it is rarely used for decoration. The disadvantage of many varieties is low resistance to combustion, although the manufacturing technology provides for the impregnation of the material with a special compound that prevents combustion.

Manufacturing method

According to the type of production, ceiling tiles are divided into 3 types:

• Stamped- material created by pressing foam blocks with a thickness of 6-8 mm (rather fragile material with no protective layer and instability to dirt, used due to its low cost);

• Injection- a variety formed by sintering in a mold with further processing at high temperature, having a thickness of 9-14 mm (polystyrene foam category with high indicators of relief and pattern clarity, capable of imitating stone, marble, wood, tile and ceramic tiles, numbering in assortment category for painting);

• Extruded- a category, the creation process of which is associated with the pressure of the extruded polystyrene foam strip under the press, it is characterized by high quality indicators in comparison with the two previous types of finishes (it is strong, reliable, durable, hygienic and capable of restoring its original shape if it is deformed, glued and cut much easier).

Surface type

By type of surface, ceiling tiles can be:

• laminated;
• mirrored;
• seamless.

Laminated material is distinguished by the presence of a special film on the surface - lamination. This feature makes the finishing panels moisture resistant, durable, and resistant to fading. Due to the laminated film, this ceiling tile has a different shade. The mirror version is a design option: it is mainly a plastic tile, on the surface of which there is a mirror layer. This option, in addition to the square shape, is rectangular. The seamless type of raw material differs in that when pasting, no seams are visible, while the tile can have classic linear borders or curly lines. It is durable, thermally stable, does not lend itself to moisture, is practical and can be painted on the surface.

Shape and dimensions

These criteria are especially important: it depends on the amount of consumables. The calculation formula is quite simple: measure the length and width of the ceiling, multiply and divide by the number of square meters of material, based on the number of fragments in one package. Typically, a factory-packaged 50 x 50 cm block consists of 8 blanks. This is, in fact, 2 sq. m.

This parameter is the most popular, although in addition to it, there are other standards in production, for example:

• 30 x 30 cm - for small spaces;
• 16.5 x 100 cm - for lovers of non-standard techniques.

The inconvenience of calculating rectangular tiles is the need for a symmetrical fit of the pattern, otherwise, due to an incorrectly positioned pattern, the ceiling may look visually skewed. In this case, it makes sense to glue with a shift.

Choosing glue

The correct adhesive is the basis for successful work. Often it is he who slows down the process. Some types of adhesives are enough to attach to the ceiling, they set quickly. Others will have to be fixed by pressing the surfaces for a while. At the moment, several varieties of tile adhesive have been proposed for ceiling tiles. It can be transparent, white and beige. The structure is also different. Consider a few:

"Titanium"

This glue is divided into 2 types: one of them is transparent, sold in bottles, has a specific smell. Its disadvantage is the viscosity of the structure. Application is inconvenient in that the adhesive stretches, forming threads, which distracts from work.

This does not stop some craftsmen: they believe that this glue is suitable for work and does not deteriorate if the neighbors from above have a leak or a pipe burst.

Liquid Nails

This material is sold in the form of a tube and a bottle for a construction gun. The best quality goods are produced by the Moment trademark. This adhesive is characterized by excellent adhesion to the surface. It will take a few seconds to glue the tiles. However, the very fact that it instantly grasps can make it difficult to work: it can be problematic to correct the fragment glued to the surface, because the grip of the material is especially strong.

If a bottle for a gun is used in the work, you will have to work quickly so that at the time of solidification the tile is already on the ceiling. Another nuance is the color of the glue: it is dirty beige. Such a minus calls into question the use of glue when processing the ceiling with thin fragments that do not require painting. This glue is expensive, it is produced in a small volume, so the lining of the ceiling of the room can cost a lot. It will be difficult to remove it in case of dismantling.

"Quart"

Super white adhesive for ceiling tiles of this brand is available in different volumes in plastic cans. For work, it is optimal to choose a package with a volume of 3 kg. The color is similar to the white color of the tiles, the consistency is reminiscent of sour cream. In work, the glue has proven itself from the best side. The tile applied to the ceiling lays down in place, does not slide off it, does not lag behind the surface after it has been pressed down in the places of the applied glue. This glue is convenient in that it can be used to fill the joints, if suddenly there are voids. In color and type of surface, it is similar to the main matte cladding, the processed seams will not be conspicuous, while the surface of the finish will look monolithic.

Surface preparation

Before pasting, you first need to prepare the base of the ceiling, otherwise the work runs the risk of being short-lived. This is especially true of places where the ceiling was whitewashed with lime. It must be removed from the walls, because the tile will not stick to the whitewashed surface. If, for some reason, dirt or greasy stains get on the ceiling, they are cleaned off.

Not only whitewash is removed: it is necessary to cope with the plastered surface.

This also applies to wallpaper, if they were pasted over the ceiling. To clean the horizontal plane of them, you can use a conventional spray bottle for flowers and houseplants. This will reduce the amount of dust when removing the old coating. The tile fits perfectly on the concrete base, although it is often impossible to reach it during cleaning. Do not ignore the preparation process before gluing: it is possible that the whitewash or old wallpaper will move away from the ceiling and the tiles may sag against the background of others.

If the ceiling is uneven, has significant cracks, they should be covered with putty or gypsum-based rotband. Then it is necessary to prepare the surface for gluing with a deep penetration primer. This mark is indicated directly on the container, thanks to which the composition will ensure reliable adhesion of the ceiling panel to the ceiling surface. Priming can be done with a roller and flat brush. At the same time, a roller is used in the main space, with a brush they pass along the corners and protrusions in order to exclude an overspending of liquid (if you use a roller, in the corners, when pressed, the primer will flow along the walls). It is necessary to process the ceiling of the room with high quality, then it is worth waiting a day until the composition is completely dry.

Subtleties of installation

Installation of the ceiling with ceiling tiles is quite fun and fast, so many do the gluing with their own hands. However, the work has its own nuances. She does not tolerate hack-work and haste: loosely connected tiles can fall out of the common canvas over time. It is worth considering the features of the material used: plastic tiles (PVC) do not allow pressure to achieve the density of the web, the porous material can be compressed somewhat if necessary for alignment.

Gluing provides different ways of fixing fragments. Each of them depends on the skills of the master. Calibration must be performed before gluing the material. This is especially important if you plan to start work from the center of the room obliquely. This factor is one of the most important when buying material and taking into account its stock: out of 50 pieces, 8 will definitely not fit in size. This is due to the packaging itself: often the fragments on the sides have smoothed and obtuse corners.

When buying, it is impossible to wrap the packages with adhesive tape, squeezing them: the side seams suffer from this.

The batch of goods also matters: often the blanks differ by 3-4 mm, which complicates the sticker. Taking as a basis the most high-quality square (rectangle), others are equalized by it: this way the pasting will be flawless. Before gluing a new piece, attach it to the previous one. This will allow you to find the perfect joint. After fitting, the element is glued to the surface. It is important to constantly check the direction of the drawing. This will avoid marriage.

You do not need to apply glue to the ceiling: it is enough that it will be on the tile itself. It is applied pointwise, since the material is quite light. You can apply glue in the corners, in the center, in the center of each face. In general, 5-9 dots are sufficient with a little glue. To make the tile look monolithic against the general background, and the glue does not give it tuberosity, use a rubber roller to roll wallpaper: this way you can avoid pushing the blocks and level the cladding level, especially at the crosshairs of the fragments (if there is no large relief).

If, in the process of work, a fragment with a dirty area is found in the package, which is not enough for gluing in the corner, it is worth using it as a pattern for especially difficult places (for example, where pipes or protrusions are located). So you can save on marriage and fit the shape of the missing fragment as accurately as possible. If special coloring is planned (for example, one relief element of the picture), this is done before gluing. If the entire surface is painted, it is better to do this after the finishing cloth is dry.

Sticking schemes

You can glue the tiles beautifully in different ways.

There are several options for gluing, for example:

• parallel to the walls (along the perimeter);
• diagonally (obliquely with alternation and intersection);
• staggered.

To exclude skewing of the picture, they make a rough outline of the center. To do this, they find the middle of each wall near the ceiling, glue the thread to the tape and form a crosshair. If you plan to work with tiles diagonally, the crosshair is formed from the corners of the room. The central lamp serves as a reference point.

If it is not centered, adjustments are made.

It is necessary to start glueing from the center, where there is a place for the chandelier (it is removed before work). At the same time, markings are performed for the location of the lamp in one square, cutting out a small hole in its center. This square will be the reference point for the main process. Symmetry will depend on how it is glued. If it is located parallel to the wall, the gluing of the same name is performed; if the corners of the fragment face the centers of the walls, a rhombus is glued.

Sometimes the center consists of 4 squares: in this case, for perfect alignment, they are folded together and a circle is drawn with a compass. This will allow, if necessary, to replace the fragment, not to remove the chandelier. If the work starts from the corner (parallel method No. 2), it is important to take into account that there will be cropped fragments along the edges, otherwise the drawing will be skewed. It is unacceptable that there is a whole square on one side of the wall, and only half of it on the opposite.

If we talk about the arrangement of the ceiling plane, then at the moment there are a lot of options in this regard. Tension and suspension systems, as well as structures made of wood, are especially popular. But, perhaps, the most massive distribution behind the foam ceiling tiles. Such material is relatively inexpensive. And if you add to this the possibility of arranging such a ceiling with your own hands, then we can say with confidence that there is no price for a foam ceiling! In addition, you can glue the tiles in a straight line or diagonally. And the design solutions that exist today can not be counted on the fingers!

Ceiling tile features

The easiest way to make your ceiling modern is to stick foam tiles on it. Ceiling tiles are widely used in living spaces, even when more and more consumers choose stretch ceilings.

There are different types of foam ceiling tiles, each of which has advantages over the rest. In their shape, the tiles are rectangular, square, diamond-shaped and hexagonal. But the most popular are traditional square products. Their front surface is laminated or simple, smooth or embossed, painted with a wood texture, stone, fabric, imitating wood carving or stucco molding. It is advisable to use laminated tiles in the kitchen, while waterproof panels are better for bathrooms and other wet areas.

Also, foam ceiling tiles are of three types: injection, 9-14 millimeters thick, which is made by casting and sintering raw materials in a press mold, pressed (stamped), which has a thickness of 6-7 millimeters, and extruded, pressed from an extruded strip and painted or covered with a film with standard dimensions of 50 by 50 centimeters for square tiles and 100 by 16.5 centimeters for rectangular tiles.

As for the care of foam tiles for the ceiling, it is not whimsical in principle. For this you will need a regular sponge, which you are used to washing dishes with every day, as well as soap and water. But remember that this technique is only suitable for laminated tiles, but ordinary foam panels on the ceiling should be wiped with a dry cloth or simply vacuumed. Do not wipe such a ceiling in any case with solutions in which gasoline or solvent is present, as in this way pegoplast tiles can be damaged.

Production of foam boards

The technology for the production of foam panels provides for two different methods of obtaining this material: stamping and extrusion. The first solution involves the manufacture of panels using special dies, the source for this purpose is a blank made of foam.

These materials have a high grain size and are usually produced in white. But such tiles, if necessary, can be coated with special water-dispersion paints or subjected to lamination, which gives the material a more sophisticated look and significantly improves its consumer properties.

The material in the second case is also foam, but pre-melted. Tiles are made from molten material by vacuum thermal forming. Materials obtained in this way are characterized by lower porosity, therefore they are more resistant to mechanical stress and are able to extend their useful life.

In addition, at the stage of production of tiles in this way, it is customary to add different dyes to the working composition to obtain products of any color range. But it should be noted that the production of tiles using this method requires high precision for the manufacture of products with the correct geometric characteristics.

When choosing tiles, it should be borne in mind that the extruded material has a more pronounced glossy structure, is easy to clean, and can be used in almost any room. But such tiles, due to their glossy structure, cannot undergo the staining process, and they have more visible assembly seams.

Stamped foam ceiling tiles are distinguished by higher noise and heat insulation properties, which is explained by the greater porosity and thickness of the material, and also have the correct geometric dimensions. This makes it possible to create a ceiling with almost invisible assembly joints. But the appearance of such products is inferior to the first solution.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

The advantages of plates for creating foam ceilings are as follows:

1. Styrofoam ceiling tiles can be glued to almost any surface, from bare concrete to wood shavings.
2. Since the temperature of batteries or radiators in apartments is not more than 80 degrees, then you can install such tiles without problems near them.
3. Under normal conditions, the useful life of foam tiles for the ceiling is calculated for years and decades, because this material is not afraid of damp.
4. Ceiling slabs are quite dense, therefore they have excellent thermal insulation and soundproofing properties.
5. The light weight of the material makes it possible to use adhesives for these purposes, which are not very durable, and therefore expensive.
6. Ceiling panels are easy to cut, so their installation does not take much time.
7. Polyfoam is a lightweight and environmentally friendly material.
8. The price of foam tiles for the ceiling is extremely low, and you can also save even more without resorting to the service of finishers.
9. Ceiling slabs give the room a more aesthetic appearance and, in some cases, can visually enlarge it.

With all the advantages, foam ceilings have many disadvantages. The cheapest tiles are not very durable, they turn yellow over time from sunlight, and some of them cannot stand dampness. However, this drawback can be easily corrected by turning it into an advantage, because the foam tile lends itself to painting with ordinary water-based paint.

But the main drawback of foam ceilings is vapor permeability - the foam is able to create a thermos effect in the room, depriving the walls of the ability to absorb excess moisture. When combining such a ceiling, for example, with vinyl wallpaper, the risk that a fungus will inhabit the room will increase several times.

Polystyrene foam is hardly flammable, but it melts easily. With water heating pipes, a similar material can be glued very close. But the contact of panels with lamps, especially with powerful bulbs and an open top, is highly undesirable. It is better to play it safe and place the lamps at a distance of at least 20-30 centimeters from the surface of the foam ceiling.

In addition, it should be remembered that foam tiles are easily injured, this applies even to blunt objects. Consider this fact when transporting material from the store and when performing work on tiling the ceiling. Also, it will be quite difficult for you to achieve the impression of the integrity of the surface due to the formation of a large number of seams and joints.

Calculation of the surface for the tiles

First of all, before gluing the foam ceiling, you should stock up on the necessary materials. To this end, it is necessary to measure the area of ​​the ceiling base and buy materials with stock adjustments. The calculation of the surface on which you will glue the foam squares is done in the following way.

If there is a room with dimensions of 3 by 2 meters, then the glued surface is 6 square meters. To form one square meter, 4 tiles measuring 50 by 50 centimeters are required. The result is 24 pieces. But it is strongly recommended to add two more tiles to the resulting number of tiles, since the room does not always differ in the correct shape and exact dimensions.

It often turns out that after the sticker procedure, there may be space on some sides, which you will fill with the material purchased in stock. And then - I really don't want to go to the store to buy one or two tiles. Take this into account when getting the calculated number.

Choosing a foam adhesive

In addition to the foam tiles themselves, you need to stock up on adhesives that are necessary to fix the material to the ceiling. For pasting squares, you can use "Moment - liquid nails", because it has a thick consistency and hardens for 15-25 minutes. It is not recommended to use glue from Chinese manufacturers "Dragon", as it is excessively liquid, its adhesive properties are very low, and the squares will need to be held on outstretched hands for a long time - a real mockery of oneself.

For 24 squares of ceiling, you will need approximately 350-400 milliliters of glue. If you buy a composition in a package for a gun in a container of 450 ml, then it will be quite enough for the ceiling plinth. And it turns out cheaper than 2 tubes of 250 milliliters.

For an uneven ceiling, the finishing putty is considered the best glue - it is with its help that you can simultaneously glue foam tiles and level the ceiling without using any kind of spacers and props.

Professional craftsmen always do this. To make glue for ceiling tiles with your own hands, you need to stir an ordinary dry finishing putty in water, and then add PVA construction glue to the resulting mass. This glue is required in proportions of 200 grams per 1 kilogram of putty.

Required tools

In view of the simplicity of finishing work, for self-installation of foam tiles on the ceiling, you will need a minimum amount of tools: a paint cord for drawing the axis of the ceiling, ordinary scissors or an assembly knife for cutting tiles, a spatula for applying the finishing putty, measuring tools, a fly brush and rags for wiping tiles, and removing excess glue.

Surface preparation

The next step is to prepare the ceiling surface for work. Keep in mind that foam tiles can be glued to almost any flat surface that has been previously cleaned of debris and dirt, as well as old finishes (wallpaper, tiles, whitewash).

However, before carrying out the work itself, it is necessary to prime the base surface using a deep penetration compound. This procedure is required to prevent the spread of harmful pathogens in the cavity of the foam panels and to improve the adhesion of materials. Pay special attention to large depressions and irregularities, if any.

Ceiling markings

Next, mark the ceiling, which will accurately indicate the location of the tiles on the plane. For marking, you will need a marking cord - an ordinary rope made of natural material that is tinted with a powder-type dye. The dye and cord can be purchased at the market or at your local hardware store.

When marking, it is recommended to take into account the type of arrangement of panels on the ceiling - longitudinal or diagonal rows. Moreover, in the latter version, the operations will be more laborious, but they will visually increase the ceiling surface.

Involve a friend to mark the ceiling. Pull the cord lightly from one corner of the room diagonally to the other. Pull the lace a little from the ceiling and release, thereby you get one of the diagonals. The same must be done to get the second diagonal. After these operations, you will get two diagonals that intersect in the middle, this will be the center of the room.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the same distance from the resulting center along four lines going to the corners. For example, one and a half meters from the center to the corners, then make marks. Then take a marking cord and beat off the lines along the marks so that a rectangle or square is obtained on the ceiling. After that, measure the resulting sides of this figure, the opposite lines should be equal in length (an error of 1-4 millimeters is allowed).

If the opposite sides of the geometric figure differ from each other by more than 6 millimeters, then you should again measure the segments from the center so that they are the same. After all, using a tape measure, you need to find the midpoints of the sides of the resulting rectangle or square. Using a scribe along the marks, draw lines through the center. Along these axes, you need to glue the tiles.

Many developers prefer to stick their foam ceiling cards diagonally, as shown in the photo of the foam ceiling. In this case, you need to place the axes a little differently - they should go from one corner to another and be placed at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other. If the angle is not clear, then at one moment the cards may fail.

Applying glue to the surface

The rules for gluing foam boards may differ slightly, depending on the glue used. The glue should be applied completely or dotted to the projections on the back of the panel or in the corners and in the middle.

In order not to close the marked axes, it is better to apply the putty or glue directly to the tiles - this is done with a comb, which is used for facing surfaces with tiles. If there are irregularities up to a centimeter on the ceiling, give preference to an instrument with a large tooth, not less than 12 millimeters. If this is not enough, then additionally smear the ceiling - this must be done carefully so that the axes do not wear out. The ceiling and tiles should be smeared in the opposite direction.

If you use a special glue of the ELTITAN type, then before laying the tiles, you need to stand for 10-15 minutes. It is convenient to apply glue to 3-4 panels at once, so that by the time you apply glue to the next batch of tiles, you can already glue the first of them. It is advisable to apply a thick layer of mastic for a porous ceiling.

Pasting the ceiling with panels

After marking the ceiling, you can proceed to pasting the squares onto the surface. If the squares have a relief, you need to see if the same pattern is present on all squares. If it is the same, then it will be necessary to glue the panels in a certain pattern, and if the image is different, then you can glue the products without such a pattern.

So, you need to start pasting from the resulting center of the room, since often in the process of gluing the tiles, many are faced with a failure of the seams between individual tiles. Gradually fill the entire surface. It is recommended to install the foam ceiling with de-energized electrical wiring and always wear gloves so as not to stain the panels. Glue the first tile so that one corner is exactly in the center point where the 4 center tiles will converge.

At this point, there may be fasteners for the luminaire, in which case the corners of the tiles must be cut off. The place of the cuts will be covered in the future with a plate of a chandelier or a ceiling rosette. The edges of the panel must be aligned along the previously marked perpendicular lines. Press the tile tightly when gluing to the ceiling, but make sure that there are no dents.

Place the following tiles in parallel rows, do not allow gaps between the edges. You should be guided by the triangular arrows that are on the back of the panels, they should look in the same direction.

The last rows of panels, most often, need to be cut with a knife to the desired size, and after trying on, apply glue. After filling this space with squares on the ceiling, there are small gaps on the sides, to fill them you will need the spare square that you purchased. Measure how wide the strip is needed, cut and glue like an ordinary square.

Do not glue the entire surface at once. The glue dries quickly, so you need to wash it, otherwise you will have to scrape off the glue along with the pieces of foam tile. It is necessary to gradually glue a small area, seal the seams and wipe off the remnants of the glue with a damp cloth. The gap between the outer panels and the wall must be covered with a skirting board.

Sealing the joints between tiles

Most failures in the seams of foam tiles are due to their different sizes - in order to prevent this, it is better to glue the panels not a small distance between themselves - 1-2 millimeters. Subsequently, seal these seams with the same filler. It is recommended to paint the glued ceiling tiles with neatly sealed seams immediately after drying with water-based paint to completely hide all the flaws in the work. Polyfoam can be repainted up to 5-7 times.

In principle, ceiling tiles without seams are possible. In order for the coating to look as a whole, and water does not penetrate between the seams, it is recommended to fill all the gaps between the panels with a sealant. The silicone sealant is temperature and water resistant. After filling the joints, it is recommended to smooth it with your fingers or a trowel, and remove the excess with a damp cloth.

Foam frieze sticker

The final touch to gluing the foam tiles to the ceiling is to apply the foam friezes. They, like tiles, have a wide variety of shapes, textures and colors. For small rooms, it is recommended to choose narrow skirting boards with a small, discreet image. For large rooms, it is better to take massive ones. The friezes must be glued from the corners, adjusting along the length of the wall and making an insert between the previous strip and the segment already glued from the corner.

You can apply friezes before or after wallpapering. In the first case, high accuracy is required already during the procedure for adjusting the wallpaper itself, or the use of a decorative wallpaper frieze. Now you can glue the ceiling rosette by cutting a hole for the chandelier in the middle.

It is also possible to paint the foam ceiling with paint. Light colors will look best. You can also paint the skirting board at the same time. At the end of the work, close the doors and windows in the room tightly to exclude the movement of air currents.

We told you about the features, advantages and prices of plastic ceiling tiles. There are many foam panels for the ceiling: rectangular and square, thin and thick, with and without seams, white and multi-colored. You can't count all of them, but they are united by a fairly simple installation procedure.

There are many ways to decorate ceilings. Among the possible options, foam panels are in great demand. Inexpensive and high-quality material allows finishing very quickly. The main thing is to know how to glue foam ceiling tiles so that the surface is smooth and beautiful.

The living room is pasted over with gray foam tiles (photo)

Features of foam tiles

Foam boards are made from foamed polymers. The structural features of the finished panels provide high sound and thermal insulation in rooms where the ceilings were finished with foam plates.

Another advantage of such tiles is their lightness. Therefore, you will be able to glue the material on the ceiling with your own hands without the involvement of assistants.

Plates are also available in different shapes: rectangular, square, diamond-shaped, hexagonal. In this case, the surface of the segments is also different: laminated, embossed or smooth. Some products imitate natural materials: wood, stone, marble, fabric, etc. The choice of suitable panels is made taking into account the operating conditions in the room. For example, it is better to purchase laminated plates for the kitchen, waterproof tiles for the bathroom.

Examples of patterns and colors of ceiling tiles

Depending on the manufacturing method, tiles are:

• injection 9-14 mm thick. Manufactured by sintering in molds. Distinctive features - moisture resistance and sound insulation, does not require staining;
• stamped- 6 mm. In the manufacture of polystyrene foam plates, they are cut into squares of the desired size. The result is smooth white segments. Their advantage is their low price, their disadvantage is fragility;
• extruded... Such panels are covered with a special film or painted. In terms of thickness, they correspond to stamped analogues, but in terms of strength they surpass them several times.

Additional materials:: choice, installation rules

How to glue foam ceiling tiles: preparation

Material calculation

Before proceeding to gluing the ceiling, the amount of material is calculated.

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are the most common, affordable way to renovate a ceiling. Everyone tries to approach this responsibly and individually. Before gluing the ceiling tiles, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work so that a beautiful ceiling covering, with an original finish, will please the eye for many years. Choosing a finishing option, everyone tries to approach it responsibly and individually. He tries to familiarize himself with the varieties of this material, the rules for calculating the required amount, what glue to glue, as well as some of the nuances of combining tiles with the interior of the room.

Ceiling tile types

In the construction market, ceiling tiles are represented by the following varieties, which differ in the methods of their production:

1. Pressed ceiling tiles are made of polystyrene blocks by stamping. Finished product thickness min - 6 mm, max - 8 mm.
2. Extruded blocks are produced from polystyrene strip by pressing. They have a shiny smooth surface. The plates can be structured like a marble slab, a cut of a tree trunk and other natural materials.
3. For the manufacture of injector ceiling tiles, a method is used in which the raw material is sintered. As a result, the product has a regular shape with a deep pattern. Its thickness is from 9, but not more than 14 mm.

Selection of ceiling tiles by physical parameters

In order to properly glue the tiles for the ceiling, during the purchase, you need to pay special attention to the geometry of the product. If a tile is selected in squares, then all its corners must correspond to the required parameters, that is, equal to 90º. The slightest deviation in the future will lead to the formation of uneven seams. The corners of the ceiling tiles must not be rounded or jammed.

Another indicator when choosing a ceiling tile is the material from which it is made. When buying polystyrene tiles, you need to ensure that the edges do not crumble, and all the grains are the same in size. Higher quality is considered to be the one with the grain size is especially small. Styrofoam plates should not break under their own weight if held by any of the corners while suspended. The selected ceiling tile should have a clear pattern. No flaws are allowed, any minor inaccuracy or dent will immediately attract attention.

Calculation of the required amount of material and the choice of adhesive

After choosing the type of ceiling tile according to its physical parameters and external design, it is necessary to determine how many tiles will be required for the entire ceiling area. More experienced owners immediately buy 10-15% more in case of rejection due to broken corners or mistakes during pruning. In general, the calculation is not difficult. It is necessary to know the area of ​​the ceiling and the size of each element. Typically, ceiling tiles are produced in sizes of side faces of 50-50 cm. If the dimensions of the ceiling are not multiples of the length of the side of the tiles, then during finishing there will be gaps along the edges of the ceiling. Therefore, when calculating such a nuance must be taken into account.

An experienced craftsman's advice: If you want to save on glue, it is better to use transparent glue with a thinner “rubber” base instead of liquid nails. Its consumption is significantly lower. But for a strong hold, be sure to dry the glue already applied to the tile a little.

Having calculated the required number of tiles, you need to decide what kind of glue to glue. Many people use "Titan", "Econaset", "Liquid nails", "Moment". They adhere well to all surfaces and dry quickly. After gluing, the tile adheres firmly. Only for this it is necessary to press it against the ceiling for a few seconds.

Work order

Many owners of apartments and private houses prefer to glue the ceiling tiles with their own hands. Therefore, it is important for them to know that work must begin with marking the center of the finishing area. To do this, from diagonally located corners, you need to stretch two threads. Their intersection is the desired center. If there is a chandelier in the room, then you can start work from this point. In this case, the docking angles at the luminaire wire are slightly cut off. As a result, they will be closed with a curly glass of the chandelier rod.

Many start working from one of the walls and lay the tiles row by row. This option is the simplest and fastest. But there is also a small nuance here. It is better to lay the first row from the wall opposite the window or front door. Then the gaps that are closed by partial fragments will not be so noticeable.

Before proceeding with the sticker, the ebb around the edges of the product must be carefully cut off. In this case, the surface of the ceiling will turn out to be perfectly flat, without seams. It is also necessary to strictly observe the symmetry of the pattern at the joints of the tiles. The slightest deviation violates the entire integrity and beauty of the finish.

There are relatively many options for the location of the ceiling tiles relative to the walls of the room. The most common are parallel and diagonal with respect to the edges of the intersection of walls and ceiling. You can choose from plain, colored and combined tiles. Of the combined styling options, the following are most often practiced:

• alternating or intersecting diagonals,
• staggered,
• snake
• along the perimeter of the ceiling or in its center, etc.

At the end of the work, skirting boards are installed around the entire perimeter. They are glued with the same glue as the tile itself.

Options for gluing ceiling tiles to whitewash

We will glue directly to the whitewash, so you should choose one of two ways:

• The first is that a primer is applied over the old whitewash. It is absorbed into the layer of the old coating and adheres to the main surface of the ceiling. Then you need to wait until the primer is completely dry and start finishing.
• The second method involves partial scraping of the falling off whitewashed layer with a spatula. As a result, a thicker layer of glue is applied to the seamy surface of the tile, and it is pressed for several minutes to the gluing site. The glue is absorbed through a thin layer of whitewash remaining on the ceiling and seizes to the overlap.

How to glue ceiling tiles with your own hands: video instructions

Ceiling renovation is a laborious and costly process. In addition to tiles, you can arrange tension and suspended structures, mirror panels of various configurations and sizes. Here everything is decided by the financial capabilities and fantasies of the owner.

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Discussion:

Andrey said:

I just peeled off the whitewash where the glue will be applied. I bought superglue (putty glue sold by sellers proved to be so reliable in operation). I smeared them only on the places of the sticker at five points, pressed it to the ceiling and that's it. The tile holds. I did not close the seams - there was no great need. Then the ceiling plinth - that's all. The ceiling is pleasing to the eye. Better than any whitewash. And faster and cheaper than suspended and stretch ceilings.

Svetlana said:

My husband and I glued the tiles to the ceiling in the living room on their own. Now I already know what to look for. An important note - it is important to process the seams with the correct material. We had to take the silicone right away, but we confused it and took white glue. As a result, our seams turned yellow after drying, the ceiling looked terrible. The only solution was to paint the ceiling with paint to close the seams.

Today, polystyrene foam, or plastic tiles for pasting the ceiling is perhaps the most common material. It is inexpensive, easy to stick, easy to maintain, and modern manufacturers offer such a wide range of tile designs that you can easily transform your room into something that your fantasy tells you with its help.

Everyone who decides to repair the ceiling with tiles wants to approach this work not only individually, but also responsibly. You will need to learn a few features of choosing the right tile, the rules for preparatory work and other interesting information.

First of all, let's look at what types of tiles exist in order to accurately choose the one that suits you best.

Choosing a ceiling tile: types and their features

Expanded polystyrene tiles for the ceiling are of several varieties, and each differs in both appearance and production method:

• Pressed tiles are made by stamping from polystyrene blocks; the minimum thickness of the slab is 6 mm, the maximum is 8 mm;
• Extruded blocks, which are produced from a strip of polystyrene by pressing, have a smooth glossy surface, imitate natural materials - marble, stone, wood;
• Injection tiles are produced by sintering raw materials, have the correct shape, deep pattern; plate thickness from 9 to 14 mm.

In order to properly glue the tiles to, pay special attention to the physical, and especially the geometric parameters of the product when buying.

For example, you have opted for a square tile. All corners of the element must be absolutely right, that is, equal to 90 degrees. Any deviation, even the slightest, in the process of work will lead to the formation of uneven seams, and this will entail additional material costs and an unaesthetic appearance of the ceiling. In no case is it allowed to round or hedge the corners of the tiles.

It is also very important to take into account the material from which the ceiling tile is made. Make sure that the edges of the polyprostyrene tiles do not crumble, and that the grains are the same size among themselves. Fine-grained tiles are considered to be of the highest quality.

A polystyrene foam plate, if it is of good quality, will not break under its own weight when you hold it around the corner. The pattern must be clear and uniform throughout the package. Any flaws, dents and deformations are strictly not allowed.

Ceiling tile adhesive: the right choice is the key to success

Have you ever thought about how important it is to choose the right one for a given job? Many people mistakenly believe that "glue is also glue in Africa," and whatever you take it will still stick to glory. True, then you have to redo the repairs again, spending even more money and time on it.

It is not in vain that manufacturers of construction and repair materials have been distributing adhesives according to a narrow specialization for many years. It can be considered a marketing ploy that there are a huge variety of types of glue for the same ceiling tile on store shelves. But the fact is obvious: with glue for pressed tiles, you are unlikely to properly attach injection tiles to the ceiling. What features should be considered in order to choose the right option?

1. First, the glue should provide your ceiling covering with many years of service without the need to modify individual elements from time to time.
2. Secondly, the glue must have high bonding properties to ensure ease of use. Working with a ceiling is much more difficult than working with a floor or even a wall, so it is important to attach each tile to the surface as quickly as possible.
3. Thirdly, it is very important to take into account the consumption of glue. The higher the level of adhesion of the substance, the less you will use it, significantly saving on materials.
4. Fourth, the glue should adhere equally well to the surface in both small and large layers. This is due to the fact that in many houses the floors are uneven, which creates differences between the slabs of about 2 cm. In such cases, more glue may be needed so that the tiles do not fall off. You can pre-align the ceiling, but this is a time consuming and expensive procedure.

First, you need to determine how many tiles are required for the entire ceiling area. The calculation is quite simple: you need the ceiling area and the exact size of each plate. The standard ceiling tile size is 50 X 50 cm.

It may turn out that the dimensions of the ceiling and the sides of the tiles are not multiples. This will lead to gaps at the edges. It is for this case that experts recommend buying 10-15% more tiles than with a preliminary calculation. This will also insure you against culling or pruning errors.

For your information: you can save a lot on glue if you choose a liquid rubber-based product - its consumption is much lower. In order for the fixation to be strong, let the glue applied to the tile dry a little.

How to glue ceiling tiles correctly: we describe the workflow step by step

Gluing the ceiling tiles with your own hands is an easy task, and therefore many do this work themselves. For beginners, our tips will definitely come in handy.

1. First of all, you need to mark the center of the area to be trimmed. Draw two strands from the corners that are diagonally located. The intersection of the threads will be the very center.
2. You can start work from, taking its location as the center. You will need to cut the corners of the plates at the docking point at the wire. At the end of the work, you will close this gap with a curly glass attached to the chandelier rod.
3. The fastest and easiest way is to stick the tiles from the wall row by row. If you chose this option, then take into account one nuance: you need to lay the first row against the wall opposite the front door or window. Thus, the gaps closed by partial fragments will not be noticeable. Carefully cut off the shims around the edges of the tile before gluing it. Thus, you get a seamless ceiling tile with a perfectly flat surface.
4. Do not forget to observe the symmetry of the pattern at the joints of the elements. Any deviation can disrupt the entire finish.

There are several options for placing tiles on the ceiling in relation to the walls in the room. Most often, parallel and diagonal arrangement is used. Tiles can be monochromatic, colored and combined. For the combined option, there are the following location methods:

1. • Snake;
   • Alternating diagonals;
   • Intersecting diagonals;
   • In the center of the ceiling;
   • Along the perimeter of the ceiling;
   • Staggered.

After all the work is completed, install around the perimeter of the ceiling. If you chose plastic skirting boards, use the same glue as for tiles, if wooden, it would be more correct to fix them with nails or self-tapping screws.

Seamless ceiling tiles: what are their advantages?

Seamless ceiling tiles are almost ideal if you want your ceiling to look noble. In fact, this is a tile made of expanded polystyrene familiar to us, but its edges are decorated in such a way that the joints are almost invisible. This material is very fond of interior designers, because it allows you to transform any room without much time.

1. Seamless ceiling tiles are made from expanded polystyrene by hot stamping. This method compresses the sheets to a thickness of about 5 mm.
2. The usual size of models of seamless ceiling tiles is 50 X 50 cm, while there are usually 8 such tiles in a package. This allows you to tiled a ceiling with an area of ​​2 square meters without much effort and measurements.
3. Tiles can have both smooth and wavy contours. The shape is designed in such a way that the docking is as easy as possible, and the transition is perfectly observed.
4. The design performance of seamless tiles is very diverse: imitation of plaster moldings, natural texture of stone or wood, wood carvings.

The advantages of seamless ceiling tiles are obvious:

1. • Low cost;
   • Refractoriness;
   • Moisture resistance;
   • Easy to maintain;
   • Possibility of painting in any color.

Plus, seamless tiles make it easy to hide the unevenness of the ceiling, and you don't have to level up.

Tip: When purchasing seamless ceiling tiles, immediately purchase a custom ceiling plinth. It will be needed in order to hide the joints between the wall and the ceiling, where the tile trim line is located.

Preparing the ceiling surface for the installation of seamless tiles

You do not need any special skills to install seamless tiles - it practically does not differ from gluing simple tiles. But you will need to perform some preparatory operations. Their quality will determine how effective your ceiling will look afterwards.

1. First of all, carefully the ceiling from the previous finishing materials: remove the old wallpaper with a spatula, clean off the paint with a metal brush, wash off the whitewash to concrete.
2. Be sure to remove the chandelier from the ceiling or dismantle the lamps, insulate the wires from the lighting fixtures.
3. Apply a few coats of primer to the ceiling. Modern adhesives allow you to attach tiles directly to concrete, but the primer increases adhesion, so it will not be superfluous.

Please note: since seamless ceiling tiles hide small surface defects well, alignment with a putty is required only in the case of sagging more than 5 mm and large depressions.

After the preparatory measures are completed, proceed directly to gluing the tiles. This process has several features that are worth paying attention to:

• It is advisable, having opened the package with tiles, leave it to lie in the room where you plan to mount it;
• To make it easier for yourself, apply the markings on the ceiling as described in the third part of the article;
• Be sure to remove any glue that comes out of the gaps immediately so that the tiles will not be damaged after it dries.

It is undesirable to glue the tiles to the ceiling whitewashed in several layers. Such a layer, weighted with glue, will surely collapse over time. Ceilings treated with frozen lime are also not suitable for tiling. The fact is that such a solution will crumble like dust, and the glue will not have a setting zone.

Be sure to clean the ceiling before work: sweep it from debris and cobwebs and wipe it with a wet rag.

Video on how to glue ceiling tiles

We hope that our article has shown you the simplicity and ease of installation of ceiling tiles. Surely these tips will help you in the process, and if you have any questions, ask them in the comments, and we will be happy to answer them. Please leave advice, suggestions, share your experience in gluing ceiling tiles with our readers. Comfort for your home!