Dress in the style of Yves Saint Laurent. Legendary items: the fashion heritage of Yves Saint-Laurent
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At the head of any brand is not just a designer, but a dreamer who is trying to prove that even fashion can change the world. First of all, this concerns a woman, both her internal perception of herself and acceptance by society. Let's look at 10 dresses that helped her with this.
1.Little black dress
At the beginning of the 20th century, a crepe marroquin dress from Chanel was a sip fresh air, since in that era women continued to wear heavy, multi-layered outfits, and besides, thanks to her, black became synonymous with elegance, not mourning.
Classics are no stranger to world-famous stars. Modern interpretations little black dresses (made of leather, with sequins or lace) are worn by Angelina Jolie, Christina Aguilera, Adriana Lima, Demi Moore and Jennifer Aniston.
Angelina Jolie
Christina Aguilera
2. New look dress
Christian Dior had a very subtle sense and always knew what a woman needed. After the economic crisis caused by the war, the fair sex needed simple elegance. The French designer skillfully brought their desires to life with the help of a new look silhouette. Feminine and romantic dresses with thin waist and a full skirt was given to women new reality, where they could again allow themselves to be fragile and graceful.
The most famous divas of the 50s era tried on the new look: Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor.
Marilyn Monroe
Sophia Loren
Elizabeth Taylor
3.Space dress
Andre Courrèges studied to become a civil engineer, but who would have thought that this would help him create outfits? In 1964, the designer presented the “Space Age” collection, which was inspired by the achievements of man far from our planet: the flights of Gagarin and Neil Armstrong. Ideal geometric shapes and materials unusual for that time (vinyl, leather) gave André Courrèges the title of “discoverer” and designated technological changes in the world. His favorite was the actress and model Marisa Berenson, who appeared in outfits from this collection more than once.
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4. Mondrian dress
In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent produced a collection called "Mondrian", whose dresses quoted the paintings of the famous abstract artist. He used the painting "Composition with Red, Yellow, Blue and Black" from 1921, thereby marking the beginning new era, where fashion becomes art, and world masterpieces become affordable luxury.
This model remains an icon to this day: one of Katy Perry’s looks for the “This is how we do” video was the “Modrian” leather set.
Sarah Schofied swimsuit collection, 2010
Mademoiselle Ilo designer dresses
5. Mini dress
Mary Quant invented the minidress thanks to a stroke of luck. For convenience, her friend cut off the hem of her dress when mopping the floor, and Mary immediately adopted this model. Thanks to this model, Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton became the “London queens” of the 60s. By the way, it is not known for certain who was the creator of the mini length, because the aforementioned designer Andre Courrèges is also competing for this title.
Gene Shrimpton
6. Dress made of metal disks
Dresses made of polyvinyl chloride, overalls made of sheet aluminum, raincoats made of feathers - nothing was impossible for Paco Rabanne. His knowledge in the field of architecture was very useful to him in creating his extravagant outfits: all the models fit perfectly, and, despite the exotic materials, they turned out to be quite wearable.
But perhaps his most recognizable invention is a dress made of metal disks, which Audrey Hepburn and Françoise Hardy once wore.
Audrey Hepburn
Francoise Hardy
In 2014, this dress again “shone” in an advertisement for the perfume “Lady million: Eau my gold”.
7. Lobster dress
Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to collaborate with famous artists, and the sketch of the lobster for the famous dress was drawn by Salvador Dali himself. The designer did not at all want to assert herself by making clothes, and did not sell her products. Rather, it was a slap in the face to bourgeois taste, the result of which exceeded all expectations: even the Duchess of Windsor wanted a dress from Schiaparelli.
The famous designer, even after death, has a huge influence on fashion. Anna Wintour at one of the Costume Institute Balls appeared in a snow-white floor-length dress, which was decorated with a golden lobster. It later turned out that the outfit was made to her order at Prada.
8. LED dress
Hussein Chalayan always seemed like a man, if from this galaxy, then certainly not from this planet. Either he buries things in the backyard to artificially “age” things, then he creates dresses-covers for chairs, and in 2008, the “fashion alchemist” presented dresses with Swarowski crystals and laser diodes.
Soon after Chalayan's show, many designers picked up this idea and began churning out dresses with LEDs. Rihanna and Little Boots choose such models for their performances, and Nicole Scherzinger - for the red carpet.
Little Boots
Katy Perry
Nicole Scherzinger
Claire Danes
9. Dress with pins
Gianni Versace has always promoted sexuality: each of his outfits walked a fine line between daring and vulgarity, but the designer always skillfully balanced between them. The black sheath dress with revealing cutouts, secured with massive gold pins, became a sensation in its time.
Versus Versace collection, spring-summer 2015
And maybe this dress didn’t change the world, but it certainly changed the fate of Elizabeth Hurley. After she appeared in public wearing it in 1994, her popularity began to grow rapidly.
Lady Gaga
10. Lampshade dress
Mary Katrantzou is renowned for her innovative approach and love of 3-D prints. In her models, she often uses the trompe l'oeil technique, that is, optical illusions. Mary Katrantzou's style is bright, voluminous and multi-layered things. As part of the spring-summer 2011 collection, the “queen of prints” presented dresses whose bottoms were shaped like a lampshade. This gave a new impetus to the development of the cut and architecture of things.
It is not surprising that this dress immediately gained fans in the person of Anna Dello Russo and actress Leelee Sobieski.
Anna Dello Russo
“Never confuse elegance with snobbery,” said the great master of fashion Yves Saint Laurent. He gave the world new woman, free from prejudice, independent and sexy, knowing exactly what she wants, stylish and self-confident. And also passionately wanting love. He will often talk about love, how it makes a woman beautiful, how a woman absolutely needs to love... Women inspired him. Women were his muses.
“Over the years, I realized that the most important thing in a dress is the woman who wears it,” another famous saying Saint Laurent. And when they tell me that fashion depersonalizes women, I remember another quote from a genius: “Clothing should be subordinated to a woman’s personality, and not vice versa.” Only the woman herself can depersonalize herself. And, unfortunately, not everyone understands this simple truth. As for the fashion heritage of Yves Saint Laurent, it is so great and significant that you can discover it again and again, and each time new details of the great master’s style, new facets of his talent will appear.
Women's tuxedo
If Coco Chanel stuck her curious nose into the men's wardrobe in order to draw a lot of ideas from there, nevertheless offering women mostly laconic dresses and skirts of elegant length, then Yves Saint Laurent gave women the freedom and power with which he associated the men's suit . Since he aestheticized the tuxedo to fit a woman’s body in 1966, this item of women’s wardrobe has rightfully become a fashion classic. Perhaps only a lazy designer does not offer his own variations on the tuxedo theme from season to season. What can we say about other men's suits that have forever entered the women's wardrobe and are adapted for all occasions.
If during Yves Saint Laurent's youth his famous fashion models were not allowed into the restaurant in a trouser suit, considering that appearance a challenge and a deviation from the norm, today a well-fitting tuxedo is often an unofficial pass to events of various kinds and dress codes. A lesser-known, but no less stylish gift for women from the master is a tuxedo dress. Perfect for any life situation, it can also be used as a light coat.
Transparent blouse
“I found my style thanks to a woman. It is from there that all the strength and vitality of my style comes - I draw them from a woman’s body,” said the great couturier. In the 60s, it was the female body in the collections of the young designer Saint Laurent that caused a real scandal. Yves offered women a completely transparent blouse that should be worn without underwear. Of course, this invention plunged the “decent ladies” into a deep shock. But the atmosphere of rebellion that reigned in the minds then undoubtedly played into the hands of the sensitive couturier, instantly making transparent blouse cult item. The most daring fans of the brand immediately took Saint Laurent’s advice and began to combine this item with a tuxedo, which was no less revolutionary at that time.
It is curious that now few of fashion designers will deny himself the pleasure of doing at least one transparent thing in each of its collections.
Pea coat
Thanks to genius, the short double-breasted coat has evolved from the uniform of military sailors into a must-have of the modern men's wardrobe. Saint Laurent himself wore a pea coat and easily shared it with women. A stylish coat never goes out of fashion, but in the current autumn-winter season, a peacoat is a highly relevant and desirable item for the most fashionable and stylish women.
Safari
Africa has been a source of inspiration for Saint Laurent more than once. Hailing from Algeria, in the northern part of the country, he has made luxury leisurewear a classic in the stylish summer wardrobe. The legendary Safari jacket, jackets, shirts, overalls and dresses in sand color and all shades of khaki are another bright characteristic feature style of the great master of fashion. This includes the famous leopard print. The king of fashion made it a symbol of luxury and grace. And also the turban, a typical headdress for North Africa, began to sound secularly elegant in the hands of Saint Laurent.
Dress "Mondrian"
The 1965 collection based on the paintings of the Dutch abstract artist Piet Mondrian has forever entered the golden fund of fashion history. Six A-line dresses (the same silhouette that Yves introduced into fashion when he was still Christian Dior's successor) became a symbol of the new era. And the dresses themselves are still kept in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design). By the way, the famous Mondrian pattern is not a print, but pieces of multi-colored fabric sewn together. Matisse, Manet, Velazquez - fashion designer often looks for inspiration in art and creates it himself.
Color
A lot has already been said about color, however, speaking about the fashion heritage of Yves Saint Laurent, it is impossible not to mention it as a separate item. The king of fashion loved the color black: “In order to be beautiful, a woman only needs to have a black sweater, a black skirt and walk arm in arm with the man she loves.” It’s hard to disagree with this: a woman in love will look good even in a potato sack. And Saint Laurent noted this more than once.
For everyone else, he suggested color. Lots of color. In addition to popularizing the color khaki, he introduced into fashion bright colors, the most unexpected combinations and color blocks at first glance. Red with pink, purple with lilac and blue, fuchsia with black. Color from Yves Saint Laurent is always more than fashion. This is a work of art.
Russian theme and ethnicity
Saint Laurent is not the only artist who expressed his admiration for Russian style and used folklore motifs in his collections. However, he did it unforgettably. The master was the first to offer the viewer a fashion show as a performance, as a sacrament, as an initiation into the world of color, the richness of Russian textures, into the world of couture. This is exactly what the Russian Ballet and Opera collection of 1976 became. Yves Saint-Coran was a passionate admirer of the theater and worked a lot for it, creating costumes for legendary ballets and operas. He himself did not consider the Russian collection the best, but he called it the most beautiful. The Russian theme from the master gave the fashion world bright pure colors, such as red, green, rich purple, as well as fluffy floor-length skirts, suede vests trimmed with fur, and fur in general, including colored ones. He gracefully painted a man's blazer in green, combining with red and gold buttons. Yves stylized a Japanese kimono and an Indian sari from national clothes in European chic style modern woman, free from snobbery and prejudice.
The beginnings of street fashion and sporty chic
It’s hard to imagine, but it’s true: at the age of 21, the shy young man Yves Saint Laurent turned in an instant from Christian Dior’s assistant to the artistic director of the legendary Dior fashion house. This was back in 1957. Already in the first collection he will show all the best of the traditions of the house, adding his unique look. He will become the first fashion designer to visit Moscow in 1959 with a collection outerwear. However, the most revolutionary would be the 1960 Beatnik collection. Then she turned out to be misunderstood by critics; their consciousness at that moment was not ready to accept elements of street style on the high fashion catwalk. Sable coats with knitted sleeves, over the knee boots, caps, and crocodile leather biker jackets became shock therapy for the patriarchal clients of Christian Dior. The beatniks or “broken generation” were one of the most fashionable and dangerous phenomena of that time.
The film “The Savage” with Marlon Brando, which was a huge success, brought into fashion a new aesthetics and new heroes of its time. Brutal guys in biker jackets and biker jackets, rough boots and jeans with cuffs that look exactly like hipsters wore boyfriend jeans just a few seasons ago. However, the women in the cult film are still far from the women of Yves Saint Laurent. Hair pulled back, styled in soft curls, the delicate silhouette of the new look is still relevant, but is already becoming the image of a woman of the past. Because the woman of the future, the woman of Yves Saint Laurent - dynamic, free, independent and at the same time luxurious, clearly declared herself in the art of haute couture.
After just 6 years, having made own house the most popular name little prince fashion will become king. He will be the first to launch a line of pret-a-porte clothing, the first to create a line of cosmetics, his famous perfume with the provocative name “Opium” will be banned in many countries around the world, and a transparent blouse will forever be associated with female emancipation. He will be the first to release black models on the catwalk (by the way, the debut of the famous black beauty Naomi Campbell took place at the Saint Laurent Fashion House). He was and remains the first, the fashion genius Yves Saint Laurent.
Elena Mareeva, TV producer, expert in the field of fashion and style, www.mareevastyle.com
Founder of the Elena Mareeva School of Style, successful blogger, stylist, expert in the field of personal style, self-presentation, impression management, social and business communication, men's suit, fashion trends. 15 years of work on TV. For the last 8 years she has devoted herself to the talk show “Fashionable Sentence”. As the creative producer of the project, she was responsible for the program, its quality, concept, ratings, innovations, image and transformation of the characters.
Yves Saint Laurent 1. “The best clothing for a woman is the embrace of a man who loves her. But for those who are deprived of such happiness, there is me.” This is how Yves Saint Laurent expressed his position, and this is what he is all about. His outfits were so beautiful that they could bring women as much happiness as loving man. If love doesn't smile at you, then why not a new dress will make you smile?
A-line dress from Yves Saint Laurent's first collection 2. It is with light hand Yves Saint Laurent women began to wear trousers everywhere. He showed trousers in his collections, which caused a lot of reproaches. Girls wearing trousers from famous fashion designers were sometimes not allowed into restaurants. Today absolutely everyone wears trousers, and this won’t surprise anyone. Don't be afraid to invent and do something new. Even if everyone around is against it.
Model Veruschka in a safari jacket, YSL 3. “A wardrobe is a way of life.” It’s not enough to buy several fashionable sets once and stop there. In fashion you need to be on guard all the time: grab it right away. For a person who wants to always be stylish, this truly should become a way of life.
Yves Saint Laurent made women fall in love with hats 4. “Only such a dazzling dress can be called elegant, that it cannot be worn twice.” And why? The dress should live for one day, but live brightly, and be remembered by absolutely everyone. You should not wear the same dress to all parties and corporate events. Spend on yourself, your loved one, and come to the holidays in a new one.
The Mondrian dress, created by Laurent in 1965, literally revolutionized the fashion world. 5. Yves Saint Laurent introduced the concept of unisex into fashion. Of course, this phenomenon in clothing existed before, but it was the eminent fashion designer who brought it to the public’s attention. Unisex is so firmly entrenched in the fashion niche that today the boundaries in men's and women's style are increasingly blurred. If you are brave, but at the same time practical, pay attention to this interesting style, glorified by Yves Saint Laurent.
Tuxedo, Yves Saint Laurent, photo by Helmut Newton 6. “If a woman’s body is well-groomed, there will always be someone who will buy her mink coat» . The condition of our skin and body as a whole is perhaps the most important indicator of health and beauty. Go to a cosmetologist, drink as much as possible clean water, do fitness. Men will definitely appreciate it.
Catherine Deneuve in a YSL fur coat 7. “In order to be beautiful, a woman only needs to have a black sweater, a black skirt and walk arm in arm with the man she loves.” Black, as such, is the most elegant color. And if your beloved man is next to you, and your face is illuminated by eyes full of happiness, then you don’t need any accessories.
Yves Saint Laurent introduced the fashion for androgyny 8. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent offers women a dress in the form of a tuxedo, which causes a real shock among the public. Take risks and experiment, because it’s always nice to get a dose of adrenaline, even if only from a new unusual outfit.
Fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008)
Yves Saint Laurent draws sketches of his future collection.
The first trapeze dress, 1958.
Bride's dress, 1965.
A transparent dress with feathers excited the fashion community.
Mondrian dress, 1965.
Yves Saint Laurent with Lulu de la Falaise and Betty Catroux.
Laurent and Catherine Deneuve.
Yves Saint Laurent dressed women in men's suits...
And tuxedos.
Mick Jagger and BiancaPerez Morena de Macias. Bianca got married in a Laurent suit.
With actress Catherine Deneuve and Russian ballerina Maya Plisetskaya, Paris, 1971.
Yves Saint Laurent always watched his show from the backstage area.
Carla Bruni at the YSL show
Jerry Hall at the YSL show.
Yves Saint Laurent's last show, 2002.
“I thought it was beautiful...” At the last show of the great fashion designer.
9. “Love is the best cosmetics; it amazingly adorns the face of a woman in love. But it’s much easier to buy cosmetics than to find love.” And again, Yves Saint Laurent hints at the fact that the best beauty of a woman is love. But he advises others not to despair. If you have not yet encountered this bright feeling, then buy yourself a new bright lipstick, and the world will sparkle for you with the same bright colors.
Yves Saint Laurent created not only dresses, but real works of art 10. “The most important thing about women's clothing is the woman who wears it.” It is very important not just to carry things on yourself, but also to be an individual. With his work, Yves Saint Laurent glorifies the woman, because it is she who decorates clothes, and not vice versa.