Liquid putty for models. Putty in bench modeling

Any large-scale modeler, one way or another, faces the task of puttingtying the joints of glued parts, repairing scratches and chips. And sometimes you have to deal with the restoration of a large or small part lost as a result of some “accident”.

IN GENERAL, PUTTY IS AN INEVITABLE AND FAITHFUL COMPANION OF THE MODELIST

But in order for her to become your friend, you need to understand her. Just like everything else in this world. It is necessary to acquire initial knowledge about the puttying process itself, the types used to create prefabricated scale models product samples. And, of course, gain long-term practical experience. Practice is the only way to knowledge.

PUTTY FOR ASSEMBLY SCALE MODELS WHAT IS THIS?

In large-scale modeling, two types of putty are used

Two component epoxy compounds
One component “plastic” compositions

First type compositions are used to seal “big holes” - deep cracks, chips, broken parts. Their distinctive feature is uniform hardening throughout the entire volume. True, this is only possible if the correct proportion is created. They are also much more durable than “plastic” types of putty. In this characteristic they are inferior only to the plastic of the model itself.

The most common putties for large-scale prefabricated models of this type are the English MultiPut and the Japanese Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

If you want to achieve an effect comparable to the effect of these putties, you can look into shops for motorists. Ask there " cold welding" There are many of these on sale now.

BUT THEY ALSO HAVE THEIR DISADVANTAGES

Required to pay special attention drawing up proportions when mixing. In case of an error, it will either “get up” very quickly, but will crumble a lot in the process further processing; or it won’t harden at all. Then you will have to pick it out of the recesses and repeat the whole process again.
They often have a long drying period. Something in the size of a day. Although you can “stir up” a quickly drying solution - in everyday life we call it “five minutes”.
To apply it thin layer requires extensive practical experience. In this application, they do not stick well to the plastic, and always tend to break off at the most inopportune moment.

Tamiya Scale Model Putty

Second type putty compositions for prefabricated scale models are a thick, homogeneous mass. As it freezes, it turns into something like model plastic. These putties, in my deep conviction, are the most common among manufacturers plastic models and chemistry. These include Japanese Tamiya Basic Putty, Italian Italeri, German Revell, American Red and Green Putty from Squadron and many, many others. Many well-known experts in Russia advise using Japanese putty Mr. White Putty - when it dries, it forms a good, fairly strong white mass. It does not flake and is perfectly processed. It cannot always be found in online stores in our Fatherland. But this issue can always be resolved with the help of eBay. Tamiya Basic Putty is a good one that is almost always available.

THE MAIN DISADVANTAGE OF THIS TYPE OF COMPOSITIONS

The main disadvantage of this type of composition is uneven drying. It happens that top layer has already “got up”, but is not deeper yet. We have to wait. Simple check practice will solve all your questions.

There are also problems in the form of fragility of the surface created by putty. It may crumble and interfere with further processing.

Revell Scale Model Putty
OLD FOLK RECIPES

A Russian modeler is akin to a real entrepreneur. He is always looking for opportunities to use what is at hand. When it is not possible to get specialized drugs. Or they are not effective enough. Then a variety of folk recipes are used.

The most common version of homemade one-component putty is created using a small bottle of model glue, and big the amount of plastic shavings, and the sprue crushed into shavings. It infuses like wine - very long and carefully. Stir regularly to achieve a uniform consistency. If necessary, add a new portion of plastic shavings. The result is a viscous jelly-like substance. It covers a variety of defects well. Not great, of course. This method came to us from the distant Soviet past. When you needed everything get. Now it has lost its former popularity. Although experienced modelers often use and recommend it.

DISADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD OF PUTTYING PREFABRICATED MODELS

Extremely long preparation time. It also takes a long time to dry. Gives strong shrinkage along the profile. You will have to putty your area more than once. When drying, bubbles may appear on the surface.

THE EASIEST RECIPE FOR HOME-MADE PUTTY MODELS

We drip a little cyacrine onto the area that we want to tidy up. Then we take soda or, at worst, talc. And put them in glue. It is advisable to drip this area with cyacrine again. When the mixture dries, it will become a dense, solid mass. Sticks perfectly to the surface. It sands tolerantly enough. Tolerable because it is harder than plastic.

And finally...

SMALL PUTTY Trick

Now, with the development of the production and design base of scale model manufacturers, we increasingly have plastic with an excellent degree of joining of parts. But there is a small gap when connecting them. And since we have a surface with a carefully worked jointing - we highly undesirable polish it!

And then we will do this...

We take out a tube of sulfur Tamiya Basic Putty. We beg our wife (sister/mother/friend) for nail polish remover. A mask is applied to the gap along the edges of the joint. Then it is puttied (for example, using a toothpick or dental spatula). Let the putty dry a little (but not completely). Then dip a cotton swab in nail polish remover and carefully wipe off excess putty from the surface of the plastic. Since the liquid is not aggressive to plastic, the surface of the parts remains undamaged. The slightly dissolved putty comes off, albeit with some effort. As a result, we get flat surface junction.

I think I've told you in detail basic knowledge about puttying prefabricated scale models. If you have any questions, write. In the comments. Join our groups on social networks.

That's all for today. Good luck to you. And wonderful models!

Hello. Preparations for the holidays are successfully completed, so I decided to break the silence. Moreover, there are at least 11 more articles in the drafts.

Not long ago we looked at some methods for assembling a model, which allow, if not avoiding, then at least minimizing putty work.
I probably won’t be wrong if I call this work the most tedious stage.

To many (but not all) something will seem too simple and has been known for a long time.

Let's try to cut corners a little.

Let's get started

The rules as old as time apply here:

1. Take your time

2. The better (more often and more expensive) the materials used, the faster and better the result.

I met many people who expressed some dissenting opinion regarding this or that model putty in the form of a paste in a tube. At one time I tested Humbrol, Revell and Tamiya, as well as several cheaper and little-known analogues. I was not satisfied with the quality of any of them.
IN at the moment completely switched to:

First, we will try to get rid of unnecessary work and then restore the jointing. I protected the jointing lines with the first quality tape I could find.

Next, apply a layer liquid putty with a thin and flat brush. The layer is applied with a small slide, taking into account the shrinkage of the material.

It is necessary to wait until the putty begins to dry out a little - a matte crust will be the signal. Then cotton swab, soaked in solvent, we remove excess chemically. It does not damage the plastic, washing away excess putty.

Consistently, without strong pressure, we “smooth” the joint.

At this stage, a thorough drying of 10 hours and an audit of the work done is required. In most cases, re-puttying is not required, but if necessary, everything can be repeated.
The seam is first sanded with 1000-1200 grit sandpaper, then 1500-2000 grit, depending on the circumstances. Please note that the skin MUST be damp and washed regularly. Otherwise, instead of sanding, you'll just create more scratches.

As you can see, you can get creative even with such tedious work as putty.

Dmitry Ignatichev is in touch with you again - your guide to the world of large-scale modeling!

IN GENERAL, PUTTY IS AN INEVITABLE AND FAITHFUL COMPANION OF THE MODELIST

But in order for her to become your friend, you need to understand her. Just like everything else in this world. It is necessary to acquire initial knowledge about the puttying process itself, the types used, to create prefabricated scale models of product samples. And, of course, gain long-term practical experience. Practice is the only way to knowledge.

PUTTY FOR ASSEMBLY SCALE MODELS WHAT IS THIS?

In large-scale modeling, two types of putty are used

Two component epoxy compounds
One component “plastic” compositions

The most common putties for large-scale prefabricated models of this type are the English MultiPut and the Japanese Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

If you want to achieve an effect comparable to the effect of these putties, you can look into shops for motorists. Ask for “cold welding” there. There are many of these on sale now.

BUT THEY ALSO HAVE THEIR DISADVANTAGES

It is required to pay special attention to drawing up the proportions when kneading. In case of an error, it will either “stand up” very quickly, but will crumble greatly during further processing; or it won’t harden at all. Then you will have to pick it out of the recesses and repeat the whole process again.
They often have a long drying period. Something in the size of a day. Although you can “stir up” a quickly drying solution - in everyday life we call it “five minutes”.
To apply it in a thin layer requires a lot of practical experience. In this application, they do not stick well to the plastic, and always tend to break off at the most inopportune moment.

Tamiya Scale Model Putty

Second type putty compositions for prefabricated scale models are a thick, homogeneous mass. As it hardens, it turns into some kind of model plastic. These putties, in my deep conviction, are the most common among manufacturers of plastic models and chemicals. These include Japanese Tamiya Basic Putty, Italian Italeri, German Revell, American Red and Green Putty from Squadron and many, many others. Many well-known experts in Russia advise using Japanese putty Mr. White Putty - when it dries, it forms a good, fairly strong white mass. It does not flake and is perfectly processed. It cannot always be found in online stores in our Fatherland. But this issue can always be resolved with the help of . Tamiya Basic Putty is a good one that is almost always available.

THE MAIN DISADVANTAGE OF THIS TYPE OF COMPOSITIONS

The main disadvantage of this type of composition is uneven drying. It happens that the top layer has already “risen”, but the deeper layer has not yet. We have to wait. A simple practice test will resolve all your questions.

There are also problems in the form of fragility of the surface created by putty. It may crumble and interfere with further processing.

Revell Scale Model Putty

OLD FOLK RECIPES

DISADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD OF PUTTYING PREFABRICATED MODELS

THE EASIEST RECIPE FOR HOME-MADE PUTTY MODELS

And finally...

SMALL PUTTY Trick

Now, with the development of the production and design base of scale model manufacturers, we increasingly have plastic with an excellent degree of joining of parts. But there is a small gap when connecting them. As when creating a model. And since we have a surface with a carefully worked jointing, we highly undesirable polish it!

And then we will do this...

I think I have given you the basic knowledge about puttying prefabricated scale models. If you have any questions, write. In the comments. Join our groups on social networks.

That's all for today. Good luck to you. And wonderful models!

P.S. What kind of putties do you use? Write in the comments!

So, if you are a novice modeler, then most likely you have already had a question - how and how to deal with cracks and scratches that occur on the model body during assembly. It's very simple - you just need to use putty.

putty- This is most often a paste-like or powdery substance intended for leveling the surface between model parts.

Currently, a huge variety of types of putty are produced and they all differ in their properties.

The right choice putty depends on large quantity factors such as

model material

seam width, or scratches

seam location

Types of putty:

Putty
Epoxy resin
Automotive putties
Super glues

In most cases for bench modeling A special nitro-based modeling putty - Putty - is suitable. The putty is available in a metal tube, in gray or white, is applied tightly and dries quickly. It is possible to liquefy it to the desired consistency using a native (or domestic 600th) solvent. There is a drawback: after complete drying, the putty is fragile and shrinks a lot. For this reason, Putty is not suitable for sculpting figures. If putty diluted quite thinly, it must be applied in layers, allowing time for each layer to dry completely. You need to remember - the more the putty is diluted, the stronger the shrinkage will be and the longer it will take to dry.

Model putty is produced by almost all well-known brands: Tamiya, Revell, Humbrol, Model Master, Italeri

The use of this type of putty clearly goes beyond simply filling cracks and seams. For example, it is very convenient to use when making dioramas. - represents two fine-grained materials that harden only from thorough mutual mixing of the components. Well-mixed putty is applied to the model using a spatula or pressing with your fingers with little force.

Ideal for sculpting figures, making and copying parts for aircraft, tanks and other equipment. After thoroughly mixing the two components during hardening, a moment comes when the putty does not stick to the model or to the fingers. This is very convenient when sculpting and giving the desired shape.

It takes 24 hours for complete hardening. You can reduce this time by placing it on the battery.

- two-component polyester putty. - does not shrink and dries quite quickly and is suitable for those that require puttying in large volumes.

To prepare putties Before use, you need to squeeze out the putty and hardener in a ratio of 50:1 onto hard surface and mix thoroughly in a circular motion. For better stitching, it is best to use a miniature flat spatula.

The main disadvantage of this type of putty is its strong and bad smell, for this reason it is best to work with it in a ventilated area.

Keep in mind that if remains sticky even the next day, then most likely it was mixed with a small amount of hardener or it has simply expired.

(green)

Two-component epoxy putty. Consists of two ribbons - blue and yellow, when mixed you get green. After obtaining a uniform green color, the putty is ready for use. For this reason, its name is common among modellers - brilliant green. The blue tape is the hardener, the yellow tape is the base material. The more blue, the stronger the putty. By the shade of green you can control the properties of the mass. To ensure that the putty does not stick while working, it is necessary to wet the tool and hands. Working putty can be stored in a container and refrigerator.

Other puttying methods

There are other types of materials for the same tasks, but which are not model putties.

Epoxy resins

Conventional two-component epoxy resins can also be used as a placeholder. There are different varieties, from hardening in 5 minutes to 24 hours. The main advantage of this type is that they practically do not shrink and do not destroy the plastic. Disadvantage - they do not adhere well, unlike those made on the basis of solvents.

Automotive putties

This is probably the most popular type of aggregate developed for non-modeling purposes. There are a lot of them. Automotive putties are usually solvent-based and adhere well to plastic. And for this reason, they become very strong when completely dry.

Super glue

Superglues are good to use when you need to fill small cracks or scratches, as they fill the space without bubbles. Super glue practically does not shrink. The speed at which the glue dries completely depends on air humidity.

How did you understand that it doesn't exist? ideal material for all tasks. Each of them has its pros and cons. By understanding all the differences and putting them into practice, you will gain a better experience that will take your models to the next level.

>> >> Putty in bench modeling

Hello. Preparations for the holidays are successfully completed, so I decided to break the silence. Moreover, there are at least 11 more articles in the drafts.

To many (but not all) something will seem too simple and has been known for a long time.

Let's try to cut corners a little.

Let's get started

The rules as old as time apply here:

1. Take your time

2. The better (more often and more expensive) the materials used, the faster and better the result.

I met many people who expressed some special opinion regarding this or that model putty in the form of a paste in a tube. At one time I tested Humbrol, Revell and Tamiya, as well as several cheaper and little-known analogues. I was not satisfied with the quality of any of them.
At the moment I have completely switched to:

First, we will try to get rid of unnecessary work and then restore the jointing. I protected the jointing lines with the first quality tape I could find.

Next, apply a layer of liquid putty with a thin and flat brush. The layer is applied with a small slide, taking into account the shrinkage of the material.

It is necessary to wait until the putty begins to dry out a little - a matte crust will be the signal. Then, using a cotton swab dipped in solvent, we remove the excess chemically. It does not damage the plastic, washing away excess putty.

Consistently, without strong pressure, we “smooth” the joint.

As you can see, you can get creative even with such tedious work as putty.