We have already talked about the hip roof on the website. There the design of the roof was described with the rafters resting on the mauerlat. After publishing the article, I received many requests to show how to make a hip roof with rafters supported on floor beams, and also to answer the question whether it is possible to make a hip roof with different slope angles.

Thus, I wanted to “kill two birds with one stone” with one example. Now we will look at the design of a hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams and with different slope angles.

So, let's say we have a house box of 8.4x10.8 meters.

STEP 1: Install the Mauerlat (see Fig. 1):

Figure 1

STEP 2: We install long floor beams with a section of 100x200 cm in increments of 0.6 meters (see Fig. 2). I won't dwell on it any further.

Figure 2

The very first to install are the beams that run strictly in the middle of the house. We will use them to navigate when installing the ridge beam. Then we put the rest with a certain step. For example, we have a step of 0.6 meters, but we see that there are 0.9 meters left to the wall, and another beam could fit, but it doesn’t. We leave this span specifically for “removals”. Its width should not be less than 80-100 cm.

STEP 3: We install the stem. Their pitch is determined when calculating the rafters, about which a little later (see Fig. 3):

Figure 3

For now we are installing only the stems corresponding to the length of the ridge, which will be equal to 5 meters. Our ridge length is greater than the difference between the length and width of the house, which is 2.4 meters. What does this lead to? This leads to the fact that the corner rafter will not be located at an angle of 45° in plan (in the top view), and the angle of inclination of the slopes and hips will be different. The slopes will have a gentler slope.

It is enough to secure the stem on the Mauerlat with nails. We attach them to a long floor beam, for example, like this (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

There is no need to make any cuts in this node. Any cut will weaken the floor beam. Here we use two LK type metal rafter fasteners on the sides and one large nail (250 mm) driven through the beam into the end of the extension. We hammer in the nail very last, when the stem is already fastened to the Mauerlat.

STEP 4: Install the ridge beam (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

All elements of this structure except the struts are made of 100x150 mm timber. Struts made of boards 50x150 mm. The angle between them and the ceiling is at least 45°. We see that under the outer posts there are beams resting directly on five floor beams. We do this to distribute the load. Also, to reduce the load on the floor beams and transfer part of it to the load-bearing partition, struts were installed.

We determine the installation height of the ridge beam and its length for our home ourselves, making a preliminary sketch on paper.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

First of all, we make a template for the rafters. To do this, take a board of the required cross-section that is suitable in length, apply it as shown in Figure 6 and make markings using a small level (blue line):

Figure 6

The height of the block that we placed on the stem to mark the lower cut is equal to the depth of the upper cut. We made it 5 cm.

Using the resulting template, we make all the rafters of the slopes, resting on the ridge beam, and secure them (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

In such structures, where the rafters are supported not by long floor beams, but by short extensions, we always place small supports under the rafters above the mauerlat, forming, as it were, a small triangle and relieving the attachment of the extension to the beam (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

There is no need to bring these supports further inside the roof, much less place them at the junction of the extension with the beam. Most of the load from the roof is transmitted through them (this can be seen in the calculation program) and the floor beam may simply not withstand it.

Now a little about calculations. When choosing the section of rafters for a given roof, we calculate only one rafter - this is the slope rafter. It is the longest here and its angle of inclination is less than the angle of inclination of the hip rafters (explanation - we call a roof slope in the shape of a trapezoid a slope, a hip - a roof slope in the shape of a triangle). Calculations are made in the “Sling.3” tab. Example results in Figure 9:

Figure 9

Yes, I forgot to say. Who has already downloaded this calculation program from my website before December 1, 2013? There is no “Sling.3” tab. To download the updated version of the program, go to the article again at the link:

This article has also been slightly adjusted thanks to feedback from some readers, for which special thanks to them.

STEP 6: We add a stem and attach wind boards (see Fig. 10). We add enough stems to leave room for attaching the corner stem. For now, we simply sew the wind boards at the corners together, controlling their straightness. Check visually to see if the corners are sagging. If so, place temporary supports under them directly from the ground. After installing the corner extensions, we remove these supports.

Figure 10

STEP 7: We mark and install corner offsets.

First we need to pull the string along the top of the floor beams, as shown in Fig. 11

Figure 11

Now we take a beam of suitable length (the cross-section is the same as for all stems) and place it on top of the corner so that the lace is in the middle of it. From below on this beam we mark the cut lines with a pencil. (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

We remove the lace and install the timber sawn along the marked lines (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

We attach the corner extension to the Mauerlat using two roofing corners. We fasten it to the floor beam with a 135° angle and a large nail (250-300 mm). If necessary, bend the 135° corner with a hammer.

This way we install all four corner offsets.

STEP 8: We manufacture and install corner rafters.

The hip roof that I described earlier had the same angles of slope and hips. Here these angles are different and therefore the corner rafter will have its own characteristics. We also make it from two boards of the same section as the rafters. But we sew these boards together not quite usually. One will be slightly lower than the other (about 1 cm, depending on the difference in the angles of inclination of the slopes and hips).

So, first of all, we pull 3 laces on each side of the roof. Two along the corner rafters, one along the middle hip rafter (see Fig. 14):

We measure the angle between the lace and the corner stem - the bottom cut. Let's call it “α” (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

We also mark point “B”

We calculate the angle of the upper cut β = 90°- α

In our example α = 22° and β = 68°.

Now we take a small piece of board with the cross-section of the rafters and saw one end on it at an angle β. We apply the resulting blank to the ridge, combining one edge with the lace, as shown in Fig. 16:

Figure 16

A line was drawn on the workpiece parallel to the side plane of the adjacent rafter of the slope. We will make another cut using it and get a template for the top cut of our corner rafter.

Also, when we apply the workpiece, we need to mark point “A” on the rafters of the slope (see Fig. 17):

Figure 17

Now we make the first half of the corner rafter. To do this, take a board of suitable length. If one board is missing, we sew two boards together. You can sew it temporarily by cutting an inch about a meter long onto self-tapping screws. We make the top cut according to the template. We measure the distance between points “A” and “B”. We transfer it to the rafter and make the bottom cut at an angle “α”.

We install the resulting rafter and secure it (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Most likely, due to its length, the first half of the corner rafter will sag. You need to place a temporary stand under it approximately in the middle. It is not shown in my drawings.

Now we make the second half of the corner rafter. To do this, measure the size between points “C” and “D” (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

We take a board of suitable length, make the top cut at an angle β, measure the distance “S-D”, make the bottom cut at an angle α. We install the second half of the corner rafter and sew it to the first with nails (100 mm). We drive the nails at intervals of approximately 40-50 cm. The result is shown in Fig. 20:

Figure 20

The upper end of the second half of the corner rafter needs to be sawed down again. We do this with a chainsaw right on the spot (Fig. 21):

Figure 21

In the same way, we manufacture and install the three remaining corner rafters.

STEP 9: We install racks under the corner rafters. First of all, it is imperative to install a stand resting on the junction of the corner extension with the floor beam (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

If the length of the span covered by the corner rafter (its horizontal projection) is more than 7.5 meters, we install more racks at a distance of approximately ¼ of the span from the top point of the corner rafter. If the span is more than 9 meters, add racks in the middle of the corner rafter. In our example, this span is 5.2 meters.

STEP 10: We install two central hip rafters. At the beginning of the 8th step, we already pulled the laces to measure them.

We make the rafters in this way - we measure the angle of the lower gash “γ” with a small tool, calculate the angle of the upper gash “δ”:

δ = 90° - γ

We measure the distance between the points “K-L” and make a rafter along it. We file the ends at the angles we have determined. After this, the upper end needs to be filed down (sharpened) again, taking into account the angle “φ”, which we also measure using a small tool (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

STEP 11: Add offset to the corners. We make the outermost extensions, which do not reach the mauerlat, lightweight, from a 50x200 mm board (see Fig. 24):

Figure 24

STEP 12: We install spigots. I described in detail how to make spigots in the first article about. Here the principle is absolutely the same, so I will not repeat it (see Fig. 25):

Figure 25

We attach the corner rafters to the corner rafters using a 135° metal corner, bending it if necessary.

After installing all the frames, all we have to do is hem the cornices from below and make the sheathing. We have already talked about this many times.

A good foundation does not mean that the house will stand “faithfully” for many years. Another extremely important component is a reliable and high-quality roof rafter system. Let's figure out how it works in the case of a pitched roof, what types there are and what elements it consists of.

Roof rafter systems

What should be the rafters for roofs?

Here are several types of rafters that are most often used in modern construction:

• metal ones are difficult to change, but this material is durable;
• wooden ones are easy to use and change, but require additional processing;
• wooden I-beams (made of timber and OSB) are smooth with a maximum length of up to 12 meters, but the cost is higher than a conventional wooden system;
• reinforced concrete cannot be changed at all, but they are distinguished by their long service life;
• mixed or combined systems.

Each of them has its own pros and cons, which include strength, price, ease of installation, the possibility of small changes associated, for example, with inappropriate dimensions, and interaction with the environment. This material will discuss the most popular material for making rafters - wood. Let us highlight the main tasks that are set for structures of this type.

First, and most importantly - strength each element. The roof should not deform or move. The basis of the rafter design is a triangle. It is in the form of a triangle that trusses (frames) are made, attached in parallel. Fixed and rigid, they “head” the entire structure.

Low weight. A heavy roof is extremely bad. Therefore, most elements are made from wood. If the weight of the roofing system is large, then it is reinforced with a metal frame. The base is coniferous wood with low moisture content.

What requirements the tree should respond:

• 1-3 varieties. No chips, knots or cracks.
• Wooden elements should not be less than 5 cm in thickness, and with an area of ​​up to 45 square meters. cm.
• The maximum length of coniferous timber timber should not exceed 5-6 m.
• Mauerlat and purlins are made exclusively from hard wood.

Main structural elements of rafters

Any owner planning the construction of a rafter system must be aware of what it consists of.

1. Mauerlat. The basis of the entire structure. With the help of this element, the correct load is established on all load-bearing elements of the house.
2. Rafter leg. The slope of the slope is affected, gives the roof an attractive appearance, and reliably fastens the structural parts of the system.
3. Puff. Does not allow the legs to “diverge”. Holds them firmly at the bottom.
4. Run. Attaches the rafter legs at the top of the system (ridge girder) and at the sides (side girder).
5. Lathing. Mounted strictly perpendicular to the beams. Made from cut timber or boards.
6. Posts/Struts. They “add” even more durability to the legs.
7. Overhang. Protects the main structures of the building from various natural precipitations.
8. Horse. The place where the slopes are fixed.
9. fillies. Create an overhang. Necessary when the rafters do not have the required length.

Details of rafter systems using the example of a gable roof, which can be used for various roof structures

Let's look at such a component of the rafter system as a truss. It is made flat, and, in addition to stretching, it includes braces and the beams themselves. All these parts are fixed in such a way that the load on the main structures is vertical.

In the case where the span is quite large, the truss is made of several components. The bottom of the truss is the attic ceiling. The exact number of farms is determined after serious calculations at each specific site.

Types of rafter systems for different types of roofs

All design options are determined by two main types of rafter systems: hanging and layered.

Hanging

Ideal for gable roof types, with small spans - up to 5 m, without internal partitions. The lower support is the Mauerlat. In such a system, tightening is used, which reduces the thrust of the structure on the main supports of the building.

Hanging roof structure

The hanging rafter beams are located below - they also act as floor beams. In the case where the floors were made of reinforced concrete structures, they can also be tightening the system.

Important additions:

• You should not use legs as the main support element for the roof overhang. A more optimal option is a filly (provided that the overhang is no more than 1 m wide). The leg, with this solution, transfers the load along its entire plane to the Mauerlat.
• When the wood has a moisture content of more than 20%, you should prepare in advance for the fact that after drying the system will begin to “walk.” The solution is to use bolts as fasteners, which can always be tightened. But, an even more “advanced” option is “powerful” mounting screws.
• A wind board must be secured to the top of the roof (it should go from the Mauerlat itself to the top of the ridge). The corner is organized from the attic. This is necessary to create the most durable roof that is resistant to wind loads.

Layered

They are used for roofs with spans of 9-15 m. At the top, such rafters are attached to a ridge girder, at the bottom - to a mauerlat.

Layered rafter system

If the span is more than 15 m, then instead of a ridge girder, two side girders are installed, which are additionally attached to the posts. In the case where an attic will be created, a wall is used as a support for the layered beams.

Peculiarities:

• Any structural part of such a system should not be thicker than 5 cm.
• The surfaces of the elements must be as smooth and processed as possible.
• You need to be very careful when calculating the loads on each structural element.
• The Mauerlat must be positioned strictly horizontally relative to the vertical supports.
• Symmetry must also be adhered to when installing struts with racks.
• High-quality ventilation is the key to ensuring that your rafter system does not rot in the future.
• At the points where elements connect to stone or brick, good waterproofing is needed.

Depending on the roof shape chosen by the developer, its frame will also be different. We invite you to explore various options for the most popular upper home structures.

Shed roofs

Manufactured at an angle of 13-25 degrees, such roofs have the simplest (in terms of manufacturing and installation) rafters. In the case of a small building with spans up to 5 m, a layered system is used. In cases where spans are more than 5 m, trusses are additionally used.

Gable

Also a pretty simple option. Especially when an attic or attic floor is equipped under such a roof. Tilt angles - 15-63 degrees. If the main partitions are located at a distance of up to 6 m (relative to each other) - install hanging rafters. For running house sizes of 6x6 or 9x9 meters, we recommend using the following roof design diagrams.

Recommended installation diagram for a hanging truss system for a gable roof

When increasing the size of the house, it is necessary to modify (strengthen) the structure. In such cases, it is necessary to use layered technology.

Options for a gable roof for spans of more than 10 meters: the use of a layered rafter system

Hip or hipped

Rules for the construction of a hip roof rafter system

With tilt angles of 20-60 degrees, and spans of no more than 13 m. A prerequisite is internal reinforcing elements. For roofs of this type, trusses are used, or rafters are installed for layered roofs.

broken roof

Installation of sloping roof rafters

In its lower part it can have a slope of up to 60 degrees, in its upper part it can be flat. Due to this feature, the attic area becomes somewhat larger. The same types of rafters are used as in the version with hipped roofs. But it is recommended to use trusses.

Additional items

To create the strongest possible roof, each component part of the structure must be very firmly connected to the frame and other elements. In this case, it is extremely important to take into account the strength of the wind and the direction of possible mechanical loads.

Moreover, you should also pay attention to the wood. It may crack due to drying out. Therefore, it is important to create a design in which each element will “work” as harmoniously as possible.

Previously, all structural elements of the rafters were secured with notches. But this was not a very “cheap and economical pleasure”, since it was necessary to take wooden elements of a large cross-section.

Methods of attaching rafters to the mauerlat and ridge girder

So, today, not notches are used for fastening, but special bolts and dowels:

Metal linings with anti-corrosion coating are another fastener option. They are mounted on system elements using serrated plates or nails. The advantages of such fastenings are as follows:

1. Low consumption per unit of wood.
2. Easy to install.
3. High fastening speed.

Perforated fastening elements: corners, plates, beam support

Features of installation of the rafter system and mauerlats of gable roofs

Installation diagram of the rafter system in the case of a gable roof

I - mauerlat, II - rafter leg, III - ceiling.

Using narrow rafter legs is a “direct path” to sagging of the system in the future. To prevent this, you need to use a special grid - reinforcement, which includes struts, racks and crossbars. To create it, you need to take wood 2.2 cm thick and 15 cm wide, or use wood plates with a minimum diameter of 13 cm.

Roof rafters are the supporting structure of the slopes. It consists of elements that can be connected to each other by crossbars, spacers, racks, etc. The material for the support beams, in addition to the most common one - wood, can be anything - metal, reinforced concrete or mixed.

Table for calculating the rafter system depending on the distance between each other and the length

The wood (timber) must have a cross-section from 40 by 150 to 100 by 250 mm. This figure depends on the distance of the legs from one another, and the number of sediment loads for a particular area (calculation is carried out separately).

The board should not have more than 5 cm in cross section. Width is directly proportional to length. For example, if your board is 5 m in length, then its width should not be less than 13 cm. The main material of the roof sheathing is also important. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the presence of knots, chips and cracks. If it is not possible to find the most even pieces of wood, then the maximum length of the knots should not be more than 1/3 of the thickness of the wood.

The last step in installing roof rafters is to securely fasten each element. Staples and metal corners are the most optimal elements for these purposes. But, in modern construction, bolts are increasingly being used.

The roof performs a number of important functions in creating decent living conditions, coupled with providing visual appeal. It is quite reasonable that it is considered a significant structural component of the building. The rafter frame is responsible for the formation of the roof structure. It must withstand the load, determine the configuration and be combined with the exterior of the house.

Only a well-chosen roof base can cope with the tasks at hand. It is much easier to make the right choice if the owner of a country estate knows all the possible types and designs of rafter systems and understands the specifics of their construction and scope of application.

The list of roof responsibilities goes beyond weather protection. Although withstanding weather phenomena in a specific area, without a doubt, tops an impressive list of tasks.

The roof, as the final architectural touch, complements the appearance of the building, gives it a stylistic direction or completely deprives it. The rafter system as the basis of the roof structure must meet the entire range of technical and aesthetic requirements placed directly on the roof.

Factors in choosing the “backbone” of the roof

The rafter system is an indisputable accessory of pitched roofs, which:

• sets the configuration and steepness;
• holds the finishing coating and components of the roofing pie;
• creates conditions for the flawless operation of roofing system elements.

Choosing a roof ultimately comes down to determining the ideal version of the rafter system, which, in addition to the personal preferences of the home owner, is influenced by such compelling factors as:

• The amount of winter and summer precipitation characteristic of the area in which construction is planned.
• The strength and direction with the speed of the winds prevailing in the region.
• The owner’s desire to use the space under the roof to organize utility or residential premises.
• Type of finishing roof covering.
• Financial capabilities of the owner.

Climatic data greatly influences the choice of roof and the design of the rafter system. In regions with abundant snowfall, it is not advisable to erect structures with a slight steepness, which contributes to the formation of snow deposits. In areas with gusty winds, on the contrary, streamlined and low-sloping shapes are preferred, which will be difficult to be torn off and carried away by a powerful weather phenomenon.

It is clear that the flat design is not suitable for the arrangement of useful premises in it. For those wishing to equip the space under the roof, there are rafter systems designed for construction in regions with varying degrees of wind loads.

If there is no need to use an attic, a roof of a complex or simple configuration can be built without it. There are a lot of options, including various combinations of basic versions, familiarization with which will give an idea of ​​​​the essence of building a rafter system of any type.

In order not to suffer from guessing about the most rational shape and angle of inclination of a pitched roof, it is enough to take a closer look at the surrounding low-rise buildings.

The proven configuration can be safely taken as a basic option in order to adjust and modify it in accordance with the requirements of the future owner and the technical characteristics of the roofing. If you don’t want to copy your neighbors, you should familiarize yourself with the design and operational specifics of various rafter systems.

Basic options for rafter systems

A pitched roof can be simplistically represented as a set of slopes - planes along which atmospheric water “rolls”. The slopes are formed by the ribs of the rafter legs - the main elements of the rafter system. The classification of pitched roofs and their corresponding rafter systems is made depending on the number and configuration of the slopes. According to the indicated characteristics, their ranks include:

• Single-pitch. Roofs with one slope are installed mainly over utility buildings, extensions, and verandas. rest on two walls or two rows of racks. One of the walls or one row of supports must be higher than the other so that water can flow along the plane formed by the rafters without obstacles.
• Gable. Roofs with two rectangular slopes are most often found in domestic spaces. The rafter legs of gable systems rest on two walls of the rectangular box of the house. In the classic design, the area of ​​both slopes is equal, as is the height of the supporting walls. True, design solutions with slopes of different areas and supporting walls of different heights have become common.
• Hip. Otherwise called hipped, based on the number of pitched planes. The rafter legs of the hip system form a pair of trapezoidal and a pair of triangular slopes. The rafters of the trapezoidal components rest on the long walls of the box, and the triangular ones rest on the short end walls. In plan, the hip roof looks like a postal envelope. Looks impressive and can be used everywhere. The hipped category includes roofs with shortened triangular slopes, which are strongly recommended for construction in areas with high wind loads.
• Tent . A roof that consists of triangular slopes converging at one vertex. The minimum number of slopes is 4, the upper limit is unlimited. The rafters of the tent system rest on walls or supports of equal height. They prefer to erect tent structures over verandas and gazebos. Variations in the steepness of hipped roofs allow them to be installed in regions with any wind load.
• Broken. They are also called attic, because it is the broken technology that allows you to create the most spacious rooms under the roof. Rafter legs of broken structures are installed by analogy with gable systems, but are constructed in two tiers. The lower rafters rest on the walls of the box being equipped, the upper ones on the supports of the lower tier of the rafter frame.

The listed types of roofs and rafter structures have numerous variations on the pitched theme. For example, a gable roof can have a regular gable gable on one end and a hip on the opposite side, or it can be complemented by a shed structure over a porch in the middle of the main slope.

When two gable systems are combined crosswise, a composite roof with four wooden gables or stone gables is formed. In the arrangement of boxes with a T-shaped or L-shaped configuration, several types of rafter systems are often involved simultaneously. The upper tier of a sloping roof can be built using hip technology.

A rafter structure of any complexity can be represented as a set of simple forms. To make it easier to understand the intricacies of construction, it is better to conditionally divide the object into separate blocks. They will tell you how to build each of the parts and connect the basic types of rafter frames listed above to each other.

Overview of pitched rafter structures

In order to understand the abundant variety of structures and the possibilities of their layout, we will consider the main types of rafter systems and the corresponding diagrams.

Type #1 – lean-to rafter frame

Most shed roofs are classified as non-attic, because regardless of the steepness, the space they create under the roof is not large in volume. However, if you want to build a strictly horizontal ceiling, a ceiling separating the attic from the main rooms is still built.

The scheme depends on the size of the span to be covered with a single slope:

• If the distance between the upper and lower supports of the rafter leg is less than or equal to 4.5 m, additional struts and racks are not used.
• If the span is in the range from 4.5 m to 6 m, a bench is laid near the high wall. A strut is rested against it - a rafter leg that ensures the rigidity of the rafter closer to the top of the span.
• If a span of 6m to 9m is to be covered, the beams are laid on both sides and the rafter legs rest against both beams.

If it is necessary to cover a larger span, it is divided into sectors with the distances indicated above. At the border of adjacent sectors, racks for purlins are installed, and within the sector, beds and struts are installed according to the described rules. For construction in regions with high wind activity, single-pitched rafter structures are supplemented from the inside with diagonal wind braces.

In plan, the diagram of a single-pitch rafter frame resembles a series of parallel beams. A roof with one slope is not very beautiful, but it is very economical. The optimal angle of inclination is from 4º to 12º, and a greater inclination is not prohibited.

It is advisable to equip structures with low slopes with continuous sheathing and waterproofing, which is not necessary for steep roofs. As a finishing coating, it is better to use for low structures, corrugated sheets or roofing metal for arranging steeper structures.

Type #2 – rafter systems for gable roofs

Gable rafter frames are built on reinforced concrete floors and wooden beams, mainly with attics. The most common type of roof has a huge number of low and high, insulated and cold modifications.

Depending on the architectural and technical conditions of the object, rafter legs used in the construction of gable roofs are divided into:

• Layered. These are rafters that have a strong support under the upper and lower heels. They are manufactured and installed like the rafters of pitched roofs. Layered rafter systems are constructed over boxes that have an internal load-bearing wall. It is needed as a supporting structure for the ridge girder. The role of a wall can be played by a number of supporting posts or columns. In the simplest layered scheme with a span of up to 5 m, the tops of the rafters rest on a purlin, which rests on a beam through support posts. Rigidity is provided by struts. Schemes for more substantial spans are equipped with contractions, headstocks and additional runs.
• Hanging. Hanging type rafters have only a lower support; their tops rest against each other. The elements of the hanging rafter frame are immediately made in the shape of a triangle, so you can dispense with the Mauerlat. In such cases, the function of the Mauerlat is trusted to the base of the triangle - a tightening used to compensate for the thrust on the roof from the weight of the snow, the roof and the system itself. Hanging technology is used in the arrangement of small boxes that do not have internal support for the ridge girder. If it is necessary to cover large-span structures, the hanging system is equipped with headstocks, struts, tie rods, etc.

Depending on the technical characteristics of the roof, the sheathing is arranged continuous or sparse. Low slopes up to 12º are completely covered with a waterproof carpet, high ones - only in places of possible leaks: along the eaves, ridge, valleys, around pipes and other roofing passages.

Type #3 – hip and half-hip system

Hip, or “envelope” roofs, differ from gable structures in that the place of vertical gable gables in their structures is occupied by inclined triangular slopes - hips. The central part of the roof is occupied by a standard gable rafter system, to which the same hips adjoin at an angle.

Diversity in the family of hip structures is achieved through variations with proportions. By changing the ratio of the length of the ridge to the length of the base and the height of the slope, you can get a design that meets any taste and architectural needs.

In the construction of rafter frames the following are used:

• Layered or hanging rafter trusses with corresponding structural elements: beams, ridge purlins, tie rods, etc.
• Diagonal rafters connecting the tops of the outer trusses to the corners of the frame.
• Sloping shortened rafters that form inclined slopes of the hips and parts of the main slopes adjacent to the hips.

Hip structures can be attic or non-attic. I must admit, they are not very suitable for organizing rooms under the roof. Four inclined slopes seriously limit the space. However, for lovers of attic houses there is a Danish variety with a shortened hip. Adherents of non-standard architecture will certainly like the Dutch type, which belongs to the category called “” along with the Danish version.

Rafter systems for hip and roof types are erected with an angle of inclination from 10-12º to 60º. The absolute priority is the classic proportions with a slope of 25-30º.

In addition to penetrations, ridges and eaves overhangs, all convex and concave corners of the hip structure need enhanced waterproofing. The complex configuration of the slopes dictates the use of piece materials in finishing. When cutting metal tiles and corrugated sheets, there will be too much waste.

View #4 – hip roof

A simple hipped hipped structure is a hip roof without a ridge. Its plan layout resembles a square with diagonals running from corner to corner. Triangular slopes are connected at one vertex, which makes the roof similar to a tent. Build over boxes of a clear rectangular or polygonal shape.

In the construction of hip rafter systems, standard layered and hanging principles are used:

• A rafter structure of the layered variety is erected above the box with a central support or load-bearing wall.
• A frame is erected over an object without an internal wall or support using the hanging principle.

The steepness and number of slopes depend on the personal preferences of the future owner. The ideal roofing covering for finishing triangular slopes would be piece material, solely because when cutting large sheets, an impressive amount of waste remains. Regardless of the steepness, they prefer to equip tent structures with continuous lathing and a waterproofing carpet.

View #5 – broken rafter system

Rafter frames for broken lines, i.e. are specifically focused on increasing the attic space in order to create domestic or residential premises in it.

Framed technology is mainly used in the construction of attic roofs, which can be cold in country houses and insulated in permanent residences.

Each slope of a classic sloping roof can be divided into two rectangular parts, creating an external angle between them. The required shape is obtained by changing the sizes of the parts of the slopes, the angles between them and the angle in the ridge zone.

An attic-type rafter system is one of the most complex types of rafter systems: diagrams and drawings of a broken frame introduce the complex structure of the structure. It consists of two tiers perched on top of each other:

• The lower tier of the rafter legs rests through the Mauerlat on the beams of a wooden floor, reinforced concrete slabs or the ceiling beam of a wooden house. To support the top of the rafters, purlins are installed, which also serve as support for the bottom of the rafters of the upper tier. The rafters of the lower part of the sloping roof are only allowed to be layered.
• The upper tier of rafters rests with their lower heels on the purlins of the tier located underneath. The purlins serve as the basis for laying the attic ceiling beams. In the construction of the upper part, both layered and hanging methods can be used. The task of the top is only to form the ridge part, because the responsibility for distributing the roofing pie is assigned to the lower part of the attic roof.

The owner chooses the angle of inclination of the lower and upper parts of the slopes according to his own preferences. The ideal shape is considered if the five corners are intersected by an imaginary circle. Solid or sparse sheathing is installed depending on the type of roofing, and there are no restrictions on its choice at all.

It is better to install continuous sheathing and waterproofing on a flatter upper part. On the steep lower part of the slopes, precipitation does not linger, but it is threatened by heavy winds.

To prevent the sloping roof from falling off in areas with frequent strong winds, each rafter is attached with a wire bundle to the wall, and not through one, as is customary when fixing conventional pitched roofs.

Video review of types and shapes of roofs

Expert Tips:

Photo selection (slideshow):

The presented diagrams of different types of rafter systems are suitable for arranging a wooden house, brick and foam concrete frame. The only difference is in the fastening of the Mauerlat on wooden and stone walls. Information about the basic types of rafters will help you correctly determine the type and configuration of the roof for a country property.

The most important structure of a house, influencing the entire structure as a whole, is its roof. The main design features of the roof depend on many factors, such as the maximum permissible load on the walls, the type of structure, the type of roofing material, etc. The hip roof, the rafter system of which is not entirely simple, is nevertheless a fairly popular construction design. Its main advantage is considered to be excellent self-cleaning ability, as well as good resistance to heavy snow and wind loads.

Design features of a hip roof

The hip roof has found wide application in construction due to its strong design features, durability and quite original design, which has a beautiful appearance.

The roof design allows for a spacious residential attic floor with magnificent recessed windows, and the streamlined shape reduces aerodynamic loads from strong winds.

The rafter system of a hip roof consists of four slopes: two of which are side (trapezoid-shaped), and two more are hip (in the form of triangles). Thus, the structure has two peaks, united by a ridge girder.

Main structural units

• Ridge run- the main load-bearing axis at the top of the roof, which is the junction of all four slopes. Made from edged boards 50x200 mm.
• Diagonal (sloping rafters)- an important load-bearing element of the frame, connecting the corners of the house with the ridge girder. It is made from the same board as the ridge run.
• Side roof rafters— made from boards 50x200 mm. Attached to the ridge girder and side walls of the building or to the Mauerlat. Their main task is to evenly distribute the lateral load on load-bearing walls.
• Shortened rafters (springs)- a board sawn at a certain angle, which is attached to the diagonal rafters and the hip part of the wall of the house or mauerlat. Thus, there is no connection between the runners and the horse run.

It is important to follow the basic rules for connecting structural units; the reliability and strength of the entire structure will depend on the quality of their fastening. To do this, use only high-quality lumber and rough nails.

Connection diagram of the main components of the structure

Types of hip roofs

There are quite a lot of options for the design of hip roofs; in addition to the standard one, there are also: (half-hip Dutch and Danish, hipped, as well as sloping roofs).

• If, for example, the length of the hip roof slope is less than the side ones, this design is called half-hip (Dutch). This design withstands strong abrasion loads with dignity, and thanks to the sharp slopes, snow almost never lingers on it for long. This type is more similar to the classic one, but its characteristics are significantly superior to it.

• The Danish half-hip roof is a little more complex in design. The difference in the design is that the hip part is no longer located at the bottom, but at the top is a vertical pediment, which can be replaced with a beautiful frame with glass.

• For buildings with walls of the same length (square), a hip roof is perfect. Unlike the hip roof, which has a ridge girder, the hip roof does not have one. The design looks like this: four absolutely identical roof slopes converge at one upper point. thereby forming a pyramidal geometric figure.

• Broken roofs are very rare due to the complexity of their design. However, their appearance is so mesmerizing that you cannot take your eyes off her for a long time. It is a set of many slopes arranged at different angles relative to the walls. It is very problematic to make such a roof with your own hands, without sufficient experience behind you, so it is better to entrust this matter to professional roofers.

DIY hip roof

Correct calculations are the key to the reliability and durability of any roof. Having drawn the design diagram correctly, you can easily assemble it yourself, while having 2-3 partners as an apprentice. There will be no need to resort to the help of a team of builders; it is enough to do everything according to the plan and adhere to the given calculations.

Tilt angle

When designing any roof, its angle of inclination is chosen based on climatic conditions, which in Russia differ greatly, depending on the region. If the structure is being built in a region with heavy snow precipitation prevailing in winter, then it is advisable to make the angle of inclination large, so the snow will not be able to linger on the roof and will constantly slide off it under its own weight.

In the southern regions, where precipitation is quite rare, and only in the form of rain, but strong gusts of wind are not uncommon, roofs are erected with a slight slope. The main task of which is to resist these wind loads.

Another important factor when calculating the slope is the type of roofing. The fact is that some of them have a recommended limit on the height of the corner, which should not be neglected. And so, so as not to make mistakes, read each of them:

• Slate - recommended slope angle 15º - 65°. Failure to comply with these parameters may result in moisture getting between the sheet joints;
• Ceramic tiles - the best slope angle for slopes 35° - 65°. Neglecting the slope recommended by the manufacturer will lead to the possibility of condensation;

• Metal tiles - the minimum slope for this material is 13°, the maximum is not set by manufacturers;
• Soft tiles - the optimal slope size is considered to be no less than 15º. The roof can be installed at any other angle value above the minimum;
• Ondulin - any slope angle no less 5°, the pitch of the sheathing will directly depend on the size of the angle.
• Metal seam roofing - should be used when slopes slope above 25° degrees.

Correct area calculation

In order to correctly calculate the total surface area of ​​a hip roof, we first need to calculate the area of ​​each slope separately, then add the resulting numbers together. As we remember, the slopes of a hip roof are the geometric shapes of two trapezoids and triangles. Remembering the school curriculum, it is easy to calculate their total area.

If you are still afraid of making a mistake, the specialists from whom you will purchase roofing material can make the correct calculation, or you can use any of the online calculators that are convenient for you, of which there are plenty on the Internet.

By accurately indicating all the parameters of the future roof, they will help you calculate everything with an accuracy of up to a square meter.

Calculation of the rafter system

To accurately calculate the rafter system, you must use the table below for the relationship between the length and their placement.

Roof slope angle ratio	Correction factor for corner rafters	Correction factor for intermediate rafters
3:12	1.016	1.031
4:12	1.027	1.054
5:12	1.043	1.083
6:12	1.061	1.118
7:12	1.082	1.158
8:1 2	1.106	1.202
9:1 2	1.131	1.250
10:12	1.161	1.302
11:12	1.192	1.357
12:12	1.225	1.414

Based on the above table, the length of the rafter leg is equal to the product of its coefficient and projection. Using the table will help you make all the necessary calculations as accurately as possible.

The calculation itself is carried out in the following sequence:

• Using a regular lath, find the position (horizontal projection) of the intermediate rafter leg. Find your slope coefficient in the table and multiply by the presented coefficient;
• From the ridge purlin to the place where the lower part of the footing leg is attached, measure the length of the rafters;
• In the same way, multiplying the correction factor by the position (horizontal projection), we find the length of the overhang of the rafters. Or you can use the Pythagorean theorem (see Fig. 1).

• Now let's find the length of the corner rafters. It will be easier to do this visually by using the figure below.

Installation of rafters

Frame reinforcement

In order to give the structure greater rigidity, it must be strengthened with additional corner braces and vertical posts. The required number is calculated based on the maximum load of the rafter system. The value includes the weight of the roofing pie and covering, as well as the weight of snow and wind loads.

After the rafter system of the hip roof has been strengthened, you can safely begin installing the sheathing. Its pitch and design depend on the type of roofing material you choose. For example, it should have a solid carpet underneath.

Hip roofs offer an impressive list of compelling benefits. These include an impressive shape, uniform heating and reliable protection of the house from precipitation. Due to the absence of gables, hip structures are not subject to significant wind loads. Compared to gable options, there is much less reason to fear deformation.

The list of advantages can be continued, but their flow is slowed down by a very compelling circumstance: the rafter system of the hip roof is not pleased with the simplicity of the device. However, complexity will not stop an independent builder if he is familiar with the nuances of constructing a hipped frame.

Hip roofs differ from their gable counterparts in that there are no vertical gable walls in their design. The place of the pediments was taken by triangular slopes located at the ends, significantly reducing the real and visual volume of the roof.

The economic effect of reducing volume is a controversial issue. When cutting large-sheet material into hip slopes, costs, on the contrary, increase. For example, laying corrugated sheets will force you to fork out for the purchase of a covering one and a half times more than for arranging a standard pitched structure.

Purchasing piece materials will allow you to reduce the construction budget, because you won’t have to spend money on cladding the ends of the roof.

By analogy with any building structure, a hip roof can be divided into simple geometric shapes. In the simplest version, without mates and valleys, it has two pairs of symmetrical slopes: two triangles and two trapezoids. On this basis, the hip roof received the parallel name “hippable”.

Viewed from the front, its cut resembles an ordinary triangular gable roof. In profile, the structure has a trapezoidal configuration, which can also be divided into a rectangle with two mirror-image triangles on the sides.

The shape of the trapezoid depends on the architectural preferences of the owner. It is determined by the ratio of the length of the eaves overhang to the length of the ridge. The part of the structure, limited by a rectangle, is constructed in accordance with hanging or layered roofing technology standards.

The hips that replaced the gables are installed at a certain angle to the horizon, because they must adjoin the inclined sides of the trapezoid. It is in their design that the main problem with the hip rafter system lies, because it will not be possible to install it using the usual pitched method. After all, the ridge run does not completely cover the slope. Therefore, the rafter legs of the hips and the triangular parts of the large slopes associated with them literally have nothing to rest their upper heels on.

The support for them will be special slanted rafter legs connecting the ridge girder with the corners of the structure. If you look at the hip rafter structure from above, the slanted rafters will look like diagonals.

The installation direction was the reason for receiving the second technological name - “diagonal”. Naturally, rafter legs of different lengths will rest on the diagonals, because They are installed perpendicular to the roof overhangs. They have their own name - narozhniki.

Summarizing the information, we get that the construction of a rafter frame for a hip roof will involve:

• Ordinary rafter legs, resting with the lower part on the mauerlat or on the floor beams. Depending on the type of support, they can be hanging or layered.
• Diagonal rafters connecting the corners of the roof and the edges of the ridge girder. Note that they are used not only in the construction of convex corners of hip roofs, but also in the construction of concave corners of valleys.
• Narozhniki, forming the planes of the hips and parts of large slopes adjacent to the slanted rafters.

The installation of hanging and layered rafter legs is carried out according to the rules according to which it is constructed. We will deal with their diagonal brothers and the rafter half-legs.

Diagonal rafter legs

Taking into account the diagonal arrangement, it is easy to guess that the length of the slopes is longer than the length of ordinary rafter legs. In addition, they serve as supports for narodniks. As a result, sloped rafters are loaded one and a half times more than ordinary analogues. Therefore, it is customary to make them paired from two boards with a cross-section equal to the same size of material for ordinary rafter legs.

Pairing sloping rafters simultaneously solves three technical problems:

• Allows you to increase the load without risk due to the double cross-section of the load-bearing element.
• Provides the opportunity to obtain a diagonal structural element of any length without areas weakened by extension.
• Eliminates the need for targeted purchase of timber for sloped rafters.

Due to their length, diagonal rafters require additional supports, the number of which depends on the length of the rafter leg.

Supports for diagonal rafters

Regardless of the scale of construction, any scheme for a hip roof rafter system includes supports to strengthen the diagonal rafter legs. If the design size of the slope is more than 9 m, i.e. it covers a span of equal meters, its stability is ensured by two additional supports. For smaller spans, one support located in the upper span zone is sufficient.

The following can be used to support a diagonal rafter:

• Rack, installed vertically directly on the ceiling. A piece of waterproofing is laid between it and the ceiling if the rack is to rest against a reinforced concrete slab.
• Strut. It is installed, as befits braced rafters, at an angle, the size of which can vary from 45º to 53º. The magnitude of the slope is not particularly important. It is important that the strut itself supports the rafters in the most loaded area. The lower heel of the brace rests on the bed.
• Sprengel. It is a T-shaped short beam made of timber, turned upside down. Used in the construction of large spans that require two or more reinforcing supports. The sprengel is installed so that its base is perpendicular to the rafter. It is located at the bottom of a large span closer to the corner of the roof. Instead of a truss, a regular short stand can be used.

Additional supports are made, again from a double board or block, and installed at the most loaded points.

The video review will introduce you to the nuances of installing supports for a hip roof frame:

The nuances of supporting rafters

The top heel of the diagonal rafter rests on the ridge purlin in various ways. The choice of method depends on the design features of the rafter system:

• In rafter structures with one purlin along the central axis of the roof, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the purlin consoles.
• In rafter systems with two purlins and plank rafter legs, the diagonal rafters rest on a truss, which in turn rests on both purlins.
• In rafter frames with two purlins and rafters made of timber, in addition to the sprengel, a sprengel is used - a short piece of board that sews together ordinary rafter legs in the ridge area. The thickness of the reinforcing short is 5 cm or more.

The heel of the diagonal rafters for landing on one of the listed upper stops is trimmed after the fact. Fastening is done with nails. If necessary, you can strengthen the fixation with wire twists or metal clamps.

The lower heels of the slopes can be rested against the corner of the mauerlat or a specially installed corner beam. You can simply lean on them. The diagonal rafter legs are secured with metal brackets, nails on top of a wooden overlay, or corners.

Narozhniki and methods of their construction

Narozhniki form the hips and triangular parts of large slopes. The top of the half-leg rests on a slanted rafter, the lower heel on a mauerlat, a mortise beam or a wooden floor beam.

Installation of spigots can be carried out:

• By cutting. In slopes, nests are chosen so that the half-legs of adjacent slopes are not located opposite each other. It is recommended that the distance between cuts be at least 20cm. Therefore, during the installation step, the setters are allowed to move so as not to cut out the nests at one point.
• By installing cranial bars, serving as supports for the half-legs. 50x50mm bars are built up along the lower edges on both sides of the diagonal rafter. Their presence makes it possible to avoid cuts that significantly weaken the load-bearing element.

The second option is easier to work with and is preferable due to the increased rigidity of the structure. In addition, it absolutely does not oblige you to change the installation pitch of the half-rafters: they can be located opposite each other. The frames are attached to the mauerlat or beams using the same method as was used to install ordinary rafters.

Elementary hip rafter system

The easiest way to crown a country property with a hipped structure is to purchase and install ready-made roof trusses. However, it is much more interesting, useful, and cheaper to construct a hip roof and a rafter system that matches it with your own hands.

Especially if it is planned to be erected over a small outbuilding, gazebo or summer kitchen. It is very worthwhile to practice on simple structures before applying efforts to more important objects.

Note that in the example below there is no ceiling, the attic is not enclosed and there is no insulation. Snow practically does not linger on the slopes, i.e. the slanted rafter legs are subject to a minimum load by their standard standards. The principle of dispersal between drug addicts has not been preserved.

All nodal connections are made with nails and metal corners. The contractor will need a 5x25cm board for making rafters and purlins, as well as moisture-resistant plywood for constructing a continuous sheathing, because the building is planned to be covered with bitumen shingles.

Stage 1: Modeling and Design

Regardless of the architectural complexity of a building structure, it needs a design. It will help you decide on the optimal shape and save you from buying unnecessary materials. A simple hip roof with a standard rafter system will not require super complex drawings, but it is necessary to make at least a simple sketch.

Instructions for simplified design:

• We measure the width/height/length of the building. According to the data, we draw the profile and full face of the building on a sheet of paper on a scale, for example 1:50. This means that all sizes will need to be divided by 50. That is. a wall of a house with dimensions of 5x2.5m will be depicted in a homemade drawing as a rectangle with sides 10x5cm. If it looks too small, you can choose a larger scale - 1:40, 1:25, etc. It is advisable to duplicate the finished sketch a couple of times as a reserve.
• We choose the optimal roof height and the angle of its steepness. To do this, on one of the duplicates of the sketch, we draw several options for the outline of the roof. We determine the most successful one and measure the angle of inclination of future slopes with a protractor.
• We mark the installation points of the layered rafters on the double sketch; this is a step. We need to divide both walls into equal sections. It is not necessary that the installation pitch under the hip and pentagonal slopes be the same. In the example, the distance between the rafter legs on both walls of the building is 20 inches, which is 50.8 cm. In fact, the installation step can vary from 0.4 to 2.1 m. However, we note that too often installed rafters will increase the consumption of material many times over, and too rarely will force the structure to be reinforced with an additional counter-lattice.
• Let's decide on the length of the skate. Let's draw it on a duplicate of the template, taking into account that the ridge beam must connect a whole number of pairs of rafters. Let's set equal distances from both edges of the long walls.
• We transfer all the results to the main sheet and calculate how much material is needed. We calculate the length of the rafters on the outer sides, taking into account the length of the eaves overhangs of 40-50 cm. We calculate plywood consumption by the number of solid panels per plane of a hipped roof.

Based on the number of rafters, we calculate the amount of fasteners. We will need nails in literally all nodal fastenings. There should be a pair of corners for each rafter leg. Don’t forget to buy a board with a small reserve in case of mistakes in your own work.

To install a hip roof on brick and foam concrete walls, you will need a block for constructing a mauerlat. It is not needed if the installation of the rafter system is carried out on wooden walls.

Stage 2: Construction of the main part of the hip roof

First of all, we will build auxiliary scaffolding on the basis that between the plane of a homemade stand such as a high bench and the ridge girder, a full-length home craftsman should be placed.

The start of the installation of the rafter system for the future hip roof is the installation of the ridge part of the structure:

• We nail an auxiliary board to the walls of the building adjacent to the hips, one edge of which should coincide with the central axis. We stretch a string between the boards, repeating the central axis.
• We try on a pair of rafters at the end of the building. They should intersect directly under the lace. We outline the cut lines of the upper heels according to the fact, not forgetting that there will be a 5cm thick purlin between the rafter legs.
• Using the templates obtained, we prepare layered rafters.
• We install the rafter legs in pairs according to the marks of the main part of the system. Temporarily fasten with one nail.
• We install the ridge run between the upper heels, which previously rested freely on each other.
• We nail the rafters to the purlin.
• We attach the bottom of the rafters to the mauerlat or upper crown of the house with metal corners.

We dismantle the auxiliary boards; we will no longer need them.

Stage 3: Construction of hip slopes

We fasten the hip part of the rafter system in the same way: the lower heels are attached with corners to the mauerlat or to the upper crown, the upper heels are secured with nails. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

• We try on the first rafter to the slope, marking the actual cutting line. The lower part of the rafter must pass exactly through the corner marking point.
• We saw off the marked excess. We nail the diagonal leg to the ridge console, fixing the bottom with corners.
• We do the same with the other three braids.
• We fill the hip slope with spigots, having first tried on each part in its proper place and sawed off the excess.
• We install the pentagonal ramps.

At the end of the work, the rafters are screwed one by one with wire twists to the wooden plugs embedded in the walls or to the second crown, so that the structure is not torn off by a strong gust of wind.

There is a way to lay strands of annealed wire into the masonry during the construction process for subsequent fixation of the rafter system. On top of the twisted wire there should be three more rows of brickwork or two rows of foam blocks.

The sheathing is laid over the finished rafter system. In the case of using a soft roof, as in the above case, the sheathing is made of solid sheet metal, plywood or similar boards. A gap of 3 mm is left between the slabs or boards. For hard materials, the sheathing is constructed from a bar with the step recommended in the instructions.

Construction of complex hip roofs

The principle of constructing hip roof frames with more complex architecture is not much different from the example given. The sequence of work is exactly the same. True, it is still wiser and more reliable to fix layered rafter legs with the help of notches.

It is highly desirable to use supports for diagonal rafters. And before installing the ridge part, support frames are installed with a beam at the bottom and a ridge purlin at the top. Another change in the angle of inclination of the slopes when supported by a notch should be taken into account at the design stage.

How to build a more complex rafter system for an interesting hip roof, watch the video:

A hip-type rafter system is more complex than the frame of a conventional gable roof, but you can understand its structure. The four-slope design is preferable in many cases; it looks more interesting both above houses and above gazebos and other domestic buildings. The described construction option will help you master the basics in the construction of hip structures, and if the result is successful, a continuation will certainly follow.