Width of plasterboard for installation of built-in lamps. What sizes are spotlights depending on their purpose?

Projects for lighting systems in modern residential premises most often involve the installation of spotlights in plasterboard. When properly connected, this type of light source allows you to achieve a certain individuality and high-quality light flux throughout the entire area of ​​the room. Before choosing spotlights for your home and designing a specific scheme for such lighting, you need to classify such lighting devices.

Light sources built into a plasterboard ceiling may differ in the following categories:

  • by voltage;
  • by type of lamps;
  • according to the design possibility of rotation.

These differences are not critical in the operation of lighting devices, but may have certain advantages, depending on the design, purpose and number of units installed. It is advisable to know the operating features of each type of lamp before drawing up a design for the lighting scheme of the room.

Differences in supply voltage parameters

The modern market for spotlights for plasterboard ceilings offers three main types of devices that require different voltages:

  • devices designed for 220V;
  • devices designed for 12V;
  • LED light sources designed for 3V (the voltage on the LED packaging is not a global characterizing factor, since their operation is associated with the activity of the current driver).

Which should be supplied to the lamps depends on their type. It is necessary to foresee the type of lighting sources in advance, since the connection diagram of all types of spotlights has its own characteristics.

You should know that a transformer is used to reduce the voltage, and a special device (driver) is used to use LED light sources.

Changing the design to operate other types of lamps may require additional intervention in the wiring diagram.

Differences by type of lamps

Lamps that are installed in ceiling spotlights in plasterboard can be of the following types:

  • ordinary incandescent lamps;
  • fluorescent (energy saving) lamps;
  • halogen light sources;
  • LED lamps.

Each type of lamp has its own characteristics and this must be taken into account when planning a lighting scheme.

Spotlights that support the operation of simple incandescent lamps, are classic devices that do not require special equipment to connect them. However, they have a number of disadvantages. The main one is the overall dimensions of spotlights for plasterboard, so its height ranges from 7-8 cm, which suggests a significant increase in the gap between the plasterboard ceiling and the structural slab of the building. In some cases, this aspect may affect the final height of the room, that is, if the ceiling level is around 2.5 meters, you will have to significantly lower its level.

The use of incandescent lamps in spotlights causes them to heat up excessively, especially at high power. This may require additional security measures. The advantage of this choice is the low cost of lighting devices and ease of installation. The lighting scheme allows you to use it behind the device (we discussed it in a separate article), which provides additional opportunities for comfortable perception and the creation of light zones with different illumination.

Use in spotlights allows you to significantly save energy, but at the same time the overall dimensions of the installed point in the ceiling are the same as when using incandescent lamps. The luminous flux of modern fluorescent light bulbs is close to the flux of light from incandescent lamps, but still has its own specific shade.

The use of such lighting sources in residential premises is inferior to other lamps in terms of eye comfort.

Since spot lighting mounted in a plasterboard ceiling implies a specific approach with a minimum of protruding parts of lighting devices, this is not always possible when using energy-saving devices.

The bottom line is that the design feature of such lamps is designed for open operation, in this case a sufficient light dispersion angle is created, and when the lamp is hidden in the lamp, a significant weakening of the luminous flux occurs, despite the reflectors. Using a dimmer with this type of lighting is impossible due to the technical features of fluorescent sources.

Halogen lamps They are most often used in ceiling lamps for plasterboard ceilings. This is caused by the ratio of electricity consumed and obtaining a comfortable light spectrum. The overall frame size of such products is 3-4 cm in height, which allows the ceiling level to be slightly lowered. Basically, the operation of such lamps requires the use of a step-down transformer, which produces an output voltage of 12 V.

create a powerful and directional luminous flux, the efficiency of these devices is higher than that of incandescent lamps, which creates the opportunity to save energy, especially when using a large number of spotlights. Low operating voltage meets the standards for safe operation in wet areas. Sources of this type allow the use of a dimmer to regulate the light flux.

LED lamps point installation is the most modern solution. This fact is due to significantly lower energy consumption. At its core, an LED is a semiconductor that emits light when current passes. The advantage of this solution is the fact that it is possible to select the color of the flow, that is, it becomes possible to vary the color of the lighting in the desired parts of the room, which in itself provides wide design possibilities, especially with multi-level ceilings.

It belongs to the category of the most expensive funds at the initial investment stage when purchasing devices. Subsequently, this nuance is offset by savings in energy consumption.

For a project that allows the use of LED products, it is necessary to know the connection features and additional equipment with a current driver, the purpose of which is to maintain the amount of current passing through the LED in a given range.

The size of the products is 3-5 cm in height.

Design features of built-in lamps in plasterboard

Devices for spot light installations in plasterboard ceilings differ in design. Main types of execution:

  • irrevocable;
  • rotary;
  • open;
  • closed.

Irreversible The sources are made stationary and do not have the ability to change the direction of the light flux.

Rotary lamps allow you to change the angle of illumination direction; in some cases their use is advisable, for example, when it is necessary to illuminate a given area of ​​​​the room under any circumstances.

Open The devices are not protected from moisture; it is recommended to use them in ordinary residential premises.

Closed The lamps are structurally protected from the ingress of moist air, steam or small drops of water. Intended for use in bathrooms, swimming pools, saunas.

All modern manufactured products have an IP protection classification. According to its instructions, it is possible to select lamps according to their intended purpose. The indicator consists of two digits, the first means degree of protection against dust:

  • 0 – no protection;
  • 1 – protection against particle sizes 50mm;
  • 2 – 12mm;
  • 3 – 2.5mm;
  • 4 – 1mm;
  • 5 – less than 1mm;
  • 6 - complete security.

The second value of the figure characterizes moisture protection:

  • 0 – no protection from moisture;
  • 1 – protection against vertical ingress of water drops;
  • 2 – protection against falling drops at a small angle;
  • 3 – protection against splashes with a large impact angle;
  • 4 – any splashes of water are allowed;
  • 5 – water jets are allowed;
  • 6 – ability to work under direct influence of water;
  • 7 – ability to work under short-term exposure to water;
  • 8 – possibility of long-term stay under water.

It is clear that the last points on moisture protection cannot be acceptable for ceiling use of lamps, but you need to choose products for wet rooms with a protection point of at least 2.

Selection of components for installing lamps in a plasterboard ceiling

Installation of spotlights in drywall requires the availability of the necessary materials. Basic set includes:

  1. electric cable, cross-section 1.5 mm 2 (length is selected depending on the wiring diagram of current-carrying conductors);
  2. terminal blocks (used to connect pieces of cable);
  3. copper sleeves (for crimping twists, if necessary);
  4. step-down transformer (for connecting lamps equipped with halogen lamps);
  5. current driver (for LED light sources).

Here it is necessary to clarify that the voltage transformer must correspond to the required power; usually its parameters exceed the total power of the connected lamps by 20%.

A current driver is required for LED operation. If a serial connection is selected, the driver must have a current reserve for the LEDs to operate correctly.

The disadvantage of a series connection is that if one LED fails, the electrical circuit is interrupted and the remaining light sources stop working.

Parallel connection is more preferable, but requires a separate driver for each LED. Many manufacturers complete LED spotlights with their own driver, which allows for seamless parallel connection.

Required tools for installation

For high-quality installation of point light sources you need:

  • long ruler or tape measure;
  • voltage phase indicator;
  • pliers (crimping pliers for crimping sleeves);
  • drill;
  • crown for making holes 60-75 mm (circular drill with adjustable cutters, allowing you to make holes of the desired diameter);
  • insulating tape;
  • a knife for stripping the ends of wires or a special stripping device.

Features of wiring

Laying the electrical cable is an important point in the process of installing lamps in a plasterboard ceiling. It is strongly recommended that this work be carried out before installing plasterboard boards. In this case, it is possible to carry out the highest quality and most accurate cable routing. must be at least 1.5 mm 2. The connection diagram, regardless of the number of luminaires, must involve parallel connection for independent operation of each source.

When laying wiring in places of future connection to the lamp circuit, leave wire loops 20 -30 cm long - this will allow you to freely maneuver when connecting the wires. It is advisable to lay the wiring in a special one with a low degree of flammability.

If the wiring is being pulled on a mounted ceiling, then to do this, pull the wire through pre-drilled holes in the plasterboard under the lamps using an aluminum broach so as not to damage the cable. You can pre-make the necessary pieces of wire that will connect the lamps.

When connecting the wiring, follow the colors of the wires. Let's say the blue wire is the phase wire, and the brown wire is the neutral wire. Next, in the terminal box, near the lamp, the supply wire and cable are clamped, which goes to the next lamp, while the blue one is clamped with the blue one, and the white one with the white one, etc.

Only the phase wire should be interrupted. The transformer, if provided for in the circuit, is installed in the inter-ceiling space, the rest of the connection is made in a similar way.

If twisting of wires is provided, they must be pressed into a copper sleeve and insulated. Open twists are not allowed.

When laying out wires, their diagonal placement is not allowed, regardless of the installation diagram of the lamps. That is, this ensures the exact location of the wires in the hidden space, which simplifies the search for possible faults in the future. For complex wiring, wires are used, into which the main power wire comes, and further wiring branches go from it.

Holes in plasterboard ceiling

The locations of future holes must be marked in advance; this eliminates inconsistency with the prepared loops of wires for connection and prevents plasterboard boards from getting into the fasteners when drilling.

You must adhere to the following rules:

  • the lamps are located from each other at a distance of no more than 120 cm (the angles of the light fluxes must intersect, and the peculiarity of all ceiling products is that they have small dispersion angles);
  • the distance between the point of attachment of the lamps to the drywall and the wall should be no more than 55-60 cm.

The holes are made using a wood crown or a circular drill with adjustable cutters. Using the latter is preferable, as it makes it possible to create holes with exact dimensions for specific lamps.

When drilling, you need to take into account that the hole will be blocked by the front part of the spotlight, but at the same time it should not exceed the internal cross-section.

This will allow the product to be installed tightly. The drilling process is carried out at low speeds, trying not to damage the finishing layer on the ceiling, if any.

Installation of lamps in the ceiling

After connecting to the wiring, proceed to the final installation of the product in the hole made. To do this, compress the side spacer springs and insert the housing into the hole. A correctly selected diameter allows you to easily deepen the lamp into a ceiling niche. In this case, you need to pay attention to the connected wires; they should not be kinked.


It is undesirable to use all kinds of ropes or pieces of wire to pre-compress the springs. Ideally, the body of the product should fit freely into the hole, which will allow, in the future, simple dismantling of the lamp, if necessary. Upon completion of installation work, check the serviceability of the lighting system.

Despite the apparent simplicity of installing point light sources in a plasterboard ceiling, it is important to follow all the recommendations given, especially pay close attention to the selection of types of lamps, transformers and current drivers, since the reliability of the entire lighting system of the room depends on their quality and compliance with electrical parameters.

Video about installation and connection of spotlights in drywall

Spotlights have become not just a lighting device, but also a design concept for the “sky of the room.” You can make your ceiling beautiful and functional with the help of specialists, but with a certain level of knowledge you can do it yourself.

This design technique - a suspended ceiling with lighting - is good because it kills “two birds with one stone”, high-quality lighting (functionality) and design (design).

By choosing such a ceiling device, you:

  • Perfectly level the ceiling covering;
  • No need to prepare the base before installing the ceiling;
  • Find an easy way to hide communications under the structure;
  • You can purchase a variety of ceiling design options: multi-level, with play of light, etc.

Of the minuses, only two significant ones can be noted - you lower the ceiling level by at least 10 cm, the installation itself is impossible without skills in working with electrical wiring.

Installation and connection of spotlights (video)

Drawing of a plasterboard ceiling with lighting: is it possible to do it yourself?

Yes, you can easily make a simple drawing yourself with minimal skills. In this case, the scaling can be calculated on the computer if you need it. You enter the dimensions into a special program, and the service will calculate the data for you.

Of course, you need a drawing diagram - the structure that you will build should not only be in your head.

Complex drawings (multi-level ceilings) should be done by a specialist. A diagram of future lighting is also noted there.

Standard drawings can be found on the Internet, adapted to the conditions of your apartment.

Built-in lamps in plasterboard ceilings: categories

Light sources are so different that it will be better to decide what you need by knowing the characteristics of each.

The following categories of lamps are on sale today:

  • Various voltages;
  • Various rotation possibilities;
  • Various types of lamps.

The lamps do not have any critical differences, but in different conditions different lamps have their own advantages.

There are different types of lamps::

  • Simple incandescent lamps;
  • Energy saving lamps;
  • LED lamps;
  • Halogen lamps.

The lamps also differ in their design features:

  • Rotary;
  • Irreversible;
  • Closed;
  • Open.

Irreversible recessed luminaires do not change the direction of the light flow. Rotary ones have such an opportunity. Open devices are not protected from moisture; closed light bulbs can be mounted without fear of such external influences.

LED spotlights for plasterboard ceilings: which design to choose

Design may not be the most important thing, but it is better to take this point into account. First of all, of course, the main characteristics of the object are checked - how brightly it shines, what is the direction of the light flux, whether the light is scattered or whether it falls tightly.

There are also LED lamps that create a light lace on the ceiling.

As for design, the classic style of room decoration and antique style are most suitable for spotlights. In this case, you select strict, calm “bronze” lamps. Installation with ornament is possible.

Lamps with glass shades and crystal shades are suitable for decorating a classic room. They are located symmetrically.

For high-tech style, chrome and noble metallic shine are in favor. The lamps can be supplemented with LED strip.

Illumination of plasterboard ceilings with LED strip: features

The LED strip has many advantages - ease of installation, long service life, a wide choice of colors, and the strip consumes a small amount of electricity. In addition, this type of energy is mechanically strong, so there is no worry that installing such a tape means definitely breaking something.

Together with the diode strip, you can use controllers - control systems that can play with the backlight. That is, change its speed, brightness and color.

The most powerful LED strip, but also the most expensive, is the SMD5050 strip.

Hidden lighting of a plasterboard ceiling: how to hide the lighting

Installation of hidden lighting can be done by a person alone; this will take several steps. In this case, a wide cornice is used to hide the backlight.

Five steps to install hidden lighting:

  • Mark the line for gluing the cornice, the distance of the top edge from the ceiling itself is 10 cm.
  • Glue the cornice, glue - liquid nails, or titanium. You can also use acrylic putty.
  • Glue the joints between the cornice strips; the joints in the corners of the room especially need attention.
  • Run the wiring into the cornice and mount the tape power supply. Secure it to the wall with nylon cables.
  • Connect the tape to the terminals marked “+” and “-”. Tapes longer than 5 m are connected in parallel to the power supply.

This is a simple method, but sometimes they also make a closed niche with a frame.

DIY plasterboard ceiling box with lighting

A plasterboard box, if made with high quality, will delight the owners with its appearance for a long time. Often the box is used specifically for hidden lighting of ceilings.

To install LED lighting, a niche is made on the box; it can be either closed or open. At the stage of installing the stiffeners, it is necessary to extend the transverse guides of the profile to the curb of the niche. The tape is placed in the niche.

You can do this with a niche: having attached the guide profile to the hangers, run (attach) a U-shaped profile along it.

You will get an inverted letter “P”; tape is installed in the formed niche around the perimeter.

Box on the ceiling made of plasterboard with lighting (video)

The advantage of plasterboard ceilings is that they are natural and safe - the gypsum layer and cardboard layer are environmentally friendly. With all the other advantages, you get the optimal choice of ceiling arrangement, which will be decorated with bright and modern lighting.

Design of spotlights for plasterboard ceilings (interior photo)

Installing spotlights in plasterboard is advantageous, since the height of the lighting fixtures is no more than 5 cm, which allows installation at the lowest point of a metal frame installed under a suspended ceiling. And this saves space in the room.

Installation includes several stages, which are performed in a certain sequence:

  • Planning;
  • Wiring installation;
  • Connection.

It is convenient to make marks with a felt-tip pen on the ceiling as you assemble the frame. Guided by this marking, the wiring is quickly assembled in subsequent work. To do this, draw up a drawing of the ceiling in advance, on which they determine the number of light points, the connection diagram, determine the footage and cross-section of the power cable, etc.

This is what the wiring arrangement looks like without gypsum boards

Lamp arrangement diagram

For optimal distribution of light throughout the room, 3 types of connection diagrams are used:

  • In rows in a straight line coming from the window, the distance between points is 1 m, the distance from the wall to the point is 60 cm;
  • In a checkerboard pattern, taking into account the same rules for the placement of lamps as described above, it is effective, optimally distributes light in the room and uses spotlights as the main source of lighting;
  • Along the periphery, where the main light source is a chandelier, and spotlights are located around it for additional illumination, they are installed 40 cm from the wall and at a distance of 80 cm from each other.

A combined arrangement of lamps is often used. They think about which type of lighting to use at the preparatory level, since the length of the wire and the number of connecting terminals depend on the number of light points, which are installed before covering the metal ceiling frame with sheets of plasterboard.


A combined luminaire arrangement is often used to illuminate a room.

Key points in working with wiring

The main wire used for mounting lamps is a three-core cable with copper conductors. The cross section depends on the power of the lamps used. So for a 35-46 W lamp a 3x1.5 sq. cable is suitable. mm. Powerful lamps are not used for two reasons: they consume a lot of energy and overload the cable. If the lamps are not powerful enough, a step-down transformer is connected.

The wires to the spotlights are carried out in a special corrugated pipe. It is mounted on the ceiling using plastic brackets/special metal loops, or passed through holes in metal profiles. The latter option is suitable for suspended structures of a complex type, designed for the heavy weight of a plasterboard sheet, otherwise the corrugated sleeve will put unnecessary load on the frame and compromise its integrity.

The connection of points can be serial or parallel. The first type evenly distributes the voltage between all elements of the circuit; with the second, installation is faster, but during operation, if one lighting element burns out, the rest also fail.


Connecting lamps to an electrical circuit (diagram)

Working with drywall

After the wiring is connected, the frame is covered with plasterboard. To place the lamps in the same plane as the ceiling, holes are made in the gypsum board sheet using a hammer drill/drill/screwdriver with an attachment (wood bit or milling cutter). If there is none, use a stationery knife. The main thing is not to press too hard on the surface of the sheet, otherwise it will be deformed, which will lead to damage to the material.

The locations for the holes are selected based on the location of the connecting terminals. The dimensions of these holes must match the diameter of the lamp body, otherwise the fixation of the lamps will not be reliable. This is checked based on the design of the lamp, which consists of:

  • Cartridge with wires for connection;
  • Terminal block;
  • Lamp holder on the body;
  • Housing equipped with spring fastenings;
  • Lamps (sold separately).

When connecting the lamp, the spring fasteners bend. If the hole is small, the springs will not fit through it and will not open. If it is too large, the lamp housing will not hold securely after installation due to the space created between the housing and the drywall edge. Because of this, the lamp can jump out, tilt, etc. The optimal hole diameter is 68 mm (the most common size for spotlights), its size is covered by the lamp.


Lamp design

Connection steps:

  • Pull the wires out of the hole made;
  • Connect the cartridge wires to the terminal blocks using screws and a screwdriver;
  • Using an indicator screwdriver, find in the wires inserted through the holes those that correspond to phase, neutral and ground.

If the screwdriver indicator lights up, this is a phase. Zero is detected using a test lamp (a base connected to wires, the ends of which are exposed). One end of the wire is connected to the phase and held, the second is selected from zero or ground, changing the position of the wire. If the lamp lights up when the wire touches, zero has been found. The remaining wire is grounding.

  • Next, connect the wires from the holes to the terminal block of the base;
  • The spring fasteners on the lamp are bent, the lamp body is mounted;
  • A lamp is inserted into the socket (it is recommended not to touch the lamp with bare hands, but to use a piece of textile, so it will not burn out);
  • A fixing ring is installed in the housing fixed to the ceiling (to its inner radius), which will prevent the lamp from falling out;
  • The same manipulations are carried out with the remaining spotlights.

Connecting a spotlight

All work is carried out with the electricity turned off; only after all the lamps are connected is the power supply restored to check the correctness of the connection diagram. You can find out what the installation of spotlights includes, how the wiring is connected, and what to look for when choosing them, in the video below.

Is this connection technology suitable for all lamps?

Spotlights come in different types of installation: recessed, overhead pendant, the installation of each of them is slightly different. The technology for laying wires and identifying phases remains unchanged; some nuances are observed only in the method of attaching the lamp body to the ceiling. The above described installation technology suitable for a gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling by connecting recessed lighting.

The surface-mounted/suspended method involves installing the lamp on a special rail, which is fixed to the ceiling with screws. To do this, a small hole is made on the plasterboard using a drill, through which the power cable is pulled. It is connected to the lamp wires through terminal blocks. Then the lamp is applied to the ceiling and connected to the mounting rail through the side screws.


Installation of an overhead lamp

For a stretch ceiling, it is suitable to install spotlights in special plastic rings, which are glued to both sides of the canvas to protect it from deformation. Then the installation of lighting fixtures continues, which are additionally attached to the base ceiling using hangers or on wooden planks.

Ensuring uniform illumination of the room and all objects and furniture located in it is possible only with the help of a distributed light source. Even the most sophisticated sconce installed in the center of the ceiling is unlikely to cope with this. After all, the light will come from one place, and as a result shadows will appear. To solve this problem, so-called spots are used - spotlights of small size and power, which are evenly distributed over the surface of the ceiling. They are intended for mounting exclusively suspended ceiling systems. It is quite easy to install spotlights in the ceiling with your own hands. It is important to take care of the configuration of the lighting system even at the stage of designing a suspended ceiling.

A little about spot lighting

By their design, spotlights, which are mounted flush with the suspended ceiling, have only a 30-degree lighting sector. But due to their compactness, they can be mounted quite tightly across the entire ceiling. To ensure proper illumination, the distance between rows should not exceed 1 meter, the distance from the lamp of the outer row to the wall should not be more than 60 cm. The figures are given for rooms with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. The requirement is taken into account that the intersection of the cones of illumination from each spot be located at a height exceeding the bulk of the objects in the room.

Spot lighting can be mounted on any type of suspended ceiling. Installing spotlights in plasterboard is the simplest and most reliable option, but the installation process is no different in the case of ceiling cladding with plastic, aluminum strips or MDF, with several caveats.

Only installation of lamps in suspended ceilings should be carried out by craftsmen and installers. This is due to the technological features of the material and the fact that it is necessary, using special equipment, to secure dense inserts made of heat-resistant plastic in the places where the lamps are installed. These inserts also prevent the material from stretching. In all other cases, installation can be done independently.

What is needed for installation

The following elements will be needed from the material:

  1. spotlights;
  2. lamps;
  3. supply wire;
  4. terminal blocks or sleeves for connecting wires;
  5. insulating heat shrink, electrical tape;
  6. switch.

installation of a standard ceiling spot

It is advisable to select lamps of the same type for each type of lighting. According to the type of design, the lamps themselves are purchased in the required quantity. It is important to strictly check the presence of a reflective layer along the cone at the base of the base for incandescent lamps and the technical characteristics in accordance with the requirements for the lamp. For suspended ceilings, 40 W lamps are used; more powerful ones will significantly heat the suspended ceiling material and can lead to structural damage or even a fire. Halogen and LED versions of lighting elements are selected according to the power and spectrum of the light produced.

The wire is selected depending on the material from which the suspended ceiling is made. So for drywall, which is a fire-resistant material, a regular two-core or three-core wire VVG-2(3)x1.5 is suitable. For materials such as MDF or plastic, it is necessary to select a fireproof version of the RKGM wire. The wire must be soft, that is, each core is represented by many small veins united under one insulation.

To connect wires and connect lamps to them, you can use special terminal blocks, which are sold at any hardware store. However, the bolted connection is serviceable. You will need to check the tightness of the clamping bolts at least twice a year. Otherwise, at the point of contact, the terminal blocks and wires may begin to heat up and char. A more reliable and durable option is fixation using copper or tinned copper sleeves.

It is necessary to protect the connection points using electrical tape or using a special heat-shrink tube to insulate the supply wires.

Installation procedure

The entire process of installing lamps in the ceiling can be divided into the following stages:

  • lighting planning;
  • wiring to the installation site of the lamps;
  • forming holes for them;
  • connection;
  • consolidation and verification.

Why is such a simple task divided into several stages? This is due to the fact that each point is best performed at a certain stage in the formation of the ceiling itself.

Planning

It is very important to decide in advance, even before covering the ceiling, how to place the lamps on the ceiling. This is especially true in cases where the suspended ceiling is formed with several levels. Each level should be separated into a separate lighting circuit, and light sources should be distributed accordingly, based on the independent use of these circuits. Do not forget that the distance between the lamps should be maintained within a meter from each other, the distance from the walls should be 60 cm. It is important to distribute the lamps so that their installation location does not fall on the installed frame elements. That is, the holes for them should be spaced at a distance of 25-30 mm from the edge of the hole for the lamp to the nearest frame element. Otherwise, the profile of the frame may prevent the lamp from being secured using its latch.

When distributing spotlights, it is also necessary to take into account the presence and location of chandeliers, sconces and other decorative elements on the ceiling and walls. When used simultaneously, spotlights can be moved to the sides. Or divide the lighting circuits with spotlights for areas near other light sources and the rest of the room into separate switches.

Wire distribution

It is best to distribute the wires at the stage of forming the frame of the suspended ceiling and secure them to the frame in advance so that when drilling holes for the lamps, you can get the wire loops and make the connection. As a last resort, the wire is supplied to the first of them, and for all subsequent wires they are threaded from hole to hole. The disadvantage of the latter option is the impossibility of securing the wires to the frame, and they will simply lie on the surface of the suspended ceiling material.

With normal advance distribution of the wire, it is enough to lay a two- or three-core cable along the optimal route to all installation locations of the lamps, leaving a loop of 10-15 cm of bent wire at each point. Fastening to the frame should be done using plastic ties, but not tightly and with a slight sag of the wire, without tension. This will prevent damage to the wire due to thermal changes in its length.

After this, you can begin covering the suspended ceiling.

Forming holes for lamps

You can finally decide on the position of the lamps only after the ceiling is completely sheathed. During the design, the moment of placing the spots at a distance from the frame elements was already taken into account. Now you should also take into account the location of the seams between the elements of the suspended ceiling; this is especially important when installing lamps in a suspended ceiling covered with plastic or aluminum. If the lamp is placed at the junction of the ceiling elements, then it should be moved to the middle of one of the strips.

The holes are drilled using a special wood bit, which also drills recesses for the socket boxes. In this case, perfectly straight holes are obtained; this option allows you to effectively fix the lamp in drywall. The diameter of the holes must be selected in accordance with the dimensions of the devices used. It should be 3-4 mm smaller than the outer diameter of the front part of the lamp, but larger than the dimensions of its inner part. The most commonly chosen size is 60 or 75 mm.

Important: Remember that once you drill a hole, it cannot be moved, so once again make sure that its location is correct.

Typical connection diagram for ceiling lights

Connection

After all the holes are drilled, the loops of the previously laid wire are pulled out. Or, two wires are laid from hole to hole, starting from the outer one, to which the supply wire is connected.

Important: All connection work is carried out only when the appropriate wire is de-energized.

The loops on the laid wire are cut along the bend and exposed. To connect each lamp, two small wires 10-12 cm long are used. Having exposed a 10-15 mm wire on each side, the short wires (leads) are clamped at one end into the corresponding terminal on the lamp, and the second edge of the wire is twisted with the power cable. The connection is observed using markings on the lamp: L – phase, N – zero, PE – grounding.

Installation of a plasterboard system is a complex process consisting of several stages. The result is a smooth monolithic surface onto which any decorative finish can be applied. Light plays a special role in maintaining the chosen interior model. The correct arrangement of lamps can emphasize its features or, conversely, highlight any details. for are one of the possible options for organizing lighting, which provides many advantages.

LED lamp for plasterboard ceiling
LED lights for drywall

Example of mounted LED luminaires
Lighting device for gypsum board structures

Installing frame systems can significantly change the appearance of the room, making all surfaces perfectly smooth. is the final chord, giving the old interior a new flavor. At the same time, the updated design requires the installation of more modern lighting fixtures such as spotlights. You can install any other type of drywall, depending on the design decision made, but it is the compact and colorful minions that make it possible to give the surface a modern appearance. In addition, with their help, emphasizing important places or hiding unfavorable interior details will not be difficult. The most popular types of lighting devices of this type are the following:


Application options for spotlights
Drawing with dimensions for installing spotlights in the kitchen
Markings for spotlights

Carrying it out not only makes it possible to get a visual idea of ​​the future lighting network, but also to adjust it while this is possible.
The principle of marking is as follows:


After applying markings under the ceiling minions, the picture of the future lighting network will be fully formed. At this stage it can be assessed and adjusted if necessary.

Installation of a lighting system in plasterboard: step-by-step sequence of actions

It is necessary to install lamps in plasterboard carefully, since there is a high probability of damaging the edges and compromising the integrity of the ceiling. The further sequence of actions for installing lighting fixtures is as follows:

  1. Using a knife according to the markings.

    Creating a hole for mounting a lighting fixture

  2. We take the inner part of the plaster out along with the top paper layer (as a result, only the inner layer will remain intact).

    Removing the hole from the plasterboard

  3. We cut off the pieces of cardboard and remove the pieces of gypsum that have separated from the sheet.
  4. We pass the wiring through the holes made in the gypsum board.

    Wiring comes out through the hole made

  5. The spotlight socket is small in size and has two wires.
  6. We connect both leads of the cartridge with the supply wires (it is best to do this using a clamp into which the ends of the cable are inserted and screwed tightly).

    Connecting wires to the lamp

  7. We completely assemble the novotech lamp in such a way that the light bulb socket is completely free.

    Final assembly of the lamp

  8. We screw the light bulb into the socket (or insert the diode with a plug into the socket) and leave it hanging in an unsecured position.

    Prepared spotlight

  9. We perform similar actions in relation to all other novotech minions.
  10. We connect the wiring to the switch (when working with LED lamps, we connect it to the converter and only then connect it to the network).

    LED dimmer

  11. We turn on the switch and check the operation of all installed minions (if one of them does not light, then check its fixation in the socket).
  12. We insert the lamp body into the ceiling and fix it with a special spring mechanism.

    Inserting a spotlight into a drywall hole

Carrying out all these actions will take no more than 2-3 minutes for each novotech minion. In 30–40 minutes, hanging all the lighting fixtures with your own hands without outside help is quite possible. Especially if you eliminate the work with electrical tape and use a connecting bus, which in itself increases the overall safety of the system. A photo of the finished ceiling can be seen below.


Step-by-step instructions for installing spotlights

Removing a spotlight is not much more difficult than hanging it. It is necessary to pry up the decorative trim installed on top and slightly pull the body of the novotech device out. Next, we pry up the spring, press on it and remove it. The video shows how to install spotlights on a plasterboard ceiling.